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Digitized by the Internet Archive 
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The Library of Congress 



http://www.archive.org/details/nicaraguaitspeopOOsqui 



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NICARAGUA; 



ITS 



PEOPLE, SCENERY, MONUMENTS, 



RESOURCES, CONDITION, AND PROPOSED CANAL; 



OJfE HUNDRED ORIGINAL MAPS AND ILLUSTRATIONS. 



./ 



By E/' G-f SQUIEK, 

FOEMEKLT OHAEGE D'APFAIEES OF THE UNITED STATES 
TO THE EEPTTBLIOS OF OBNTEAL AMEEIOA. 




HIC LOCtrs EST GBMINI J A N TT A VASTA MARIS. OVID 

A EBTISBD°°EDITIO]!f 

NEW YORK: 
HARPEE & BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS, 

FRANKLIN SQUARE. 

1860. 



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Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1860, by 

HAEPEE & BEOTHEES, 

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court for the Southern District of New York. 




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CONTENTS. 



NARE ATIVE. 



CHAPTER I. — The Brig Francis — Departure from New York — San Domingo — The Coast 
of Central America — Monkey Point — Shrewd Speculations — A Naked PUot — Almost a 
Shipwreck — San Juan de Nicaragua — Music of the Chain Cable — ^A Pompous Of&cial — 
Delivering a Letter of Introduction — Terra Firma again — " Naguas" and " Guipils" — 
The Town and its Laguna — Snakes and Alligators — Practical Equality — Celt vs. Negro — 
A "Wan Policeman — The British Consul General for Mosquitia — " Our House" in San 
Juan — An Emeute — Pigs and Policy — A Viscomte on the Stump — A Serenade — Mosquito 
Indians — ^A Picture of Primitive Simplicity, 17 

CHAPTER II. — ^The Port of San Juan de Nicaragua ; its Position ; Climate ; Population ; 
Edifices of its Inhabitants ; its Insects ; The Nigua ; The Scorpion, etc. ; its Exports and 
Imports ; Political Condition ; Importance, Present and Prospective ; Seizure by the 
English, etc. — Mouth of the River San Juan — The Colorado Mouth — The Tauro — Naviga- 
tion of the River — Bongos and Piraguas — Los Marineros — Discovery and early History of 
the Port of San Juan, 41 

CHAPTER m. — The Magnates of San Juan — Captain Samuel Shepherd — Royal Grants- 
Vexatious Delays — Imposing Departure— Entrance of the River San Juan — " Peeling" of 
the Marineros — Character of the Stream — The JuaniUo — ^An Immemorial Stopping-place — 
Bongos and their Equipments and Stores — Meals — Esprit du Corps among the Boatmen — 
The "Oracion" — Queer Caprices — Medio — Our Accommodation — A Specimen Night on 
the River — Morning Scenes and Impressions — Bongo Life — The Colorado Mouth — Change 
of Scenery — The Iguana — A Solitary Establishment — Tropical Ease — The Rio Serapiqui — 
Fight between the Nicaraguans and the English — " A famous victory" — The Rio San 
Francisco — Remolino Grande — Picturesque River Views — The HiUs and Pass of San Car- 
los — Thunder Storms — The Machuca Rapids — Melchora Indians — Rapids of Mico and Los 
Valos — Rapids of the CastUlo — Island of Bartola— Capture by Lord N elson — The " Cas- 
tillo Viejo," or Old Castle of San Juan — "A Dios California I" — Ascend to the Ruins — 
Strong Works — Capture of the Fort by the EngUsh in 1780 — Failure of the Expedition 
against Nicaragua ; a Scrap of History — Passage of the Rapids — Different Aspect of the 
Paver — A Black Eagle — Ninety Miles in Sis Days — The Port of San Carlos — Great Lake 
of Nicaragua — Land at San Carlos — The Commandante — Hearty Welcome — Novel Scenes 
—Ancient Defences — View from the Fort — The Rio Frio — The Guatosos Indians — ^A Para- 
dise for Alligators — Some Happy Institutions of theirs, 55 

CHAPTER IV.-^San Carlos — Dinner at the Commandante's — Introduction to "TortUlas y 
Frijoles" — A Siesta — News of the attempted Revolution — Anticipating Events, and what 
happened to the Commandante after we left — Departure under a Military Salvo — ^View of 
San Carlos from the Lake — Lake Navigation — Card Playing — Gorgeous Sunset — A Mid- 
night Storm — San Migueleto, and the " Bath of the Naides" — Primitive Simplicity — A 
Day on the Lake — " El Pedernal" — A Bath with Alligators — An " Empacho" — A Trial at 
Medicine, and great Success — Second Night on the Lake — The Volcanoes of Momobacho, 



VI CONTENTS. 

Ometepec, and Madeira^ Volcanic Scenery — The Coast of Chontales — The Crew on Poli- 
tics — " Timbucos" and " Calandracas,"or a Glance at Party Divisions — Arrival at "Los 
Corals" — Some Account of them — Alarming News — A Council of War — Faith in the 
United States Flag — The Island of Cuba — More News, and a Eeturn of the " Em 
pacho" — Distant View of Granada — Making a Toilet — Bees — Arrival at the Ruined Fort 
of Granada — How they Land there — Sensation amongst the Spectators — Entrance to 
the City — The Abandoned Convent of San Francisco^The Houses of the Inhabitants 
— First Impressions — Soldiers and Barricades — Thronged Streets — Senor Don Frederico 
Derbyshire — "Our Host" — A Welcome — Official Courtesies — Our Quarters — First Night 
in Granada, 91 

CHAPTER V. — Reception-Day — General Respect and Admiration for the United States — 
An Evening Ride — The Plaza — Churches — Hospital — -The " Jalteva"— Deserted Munici- 
pality- Melancholy Results of Faction — The Arsenal — Natural Defences of the City — 
"Campo Santo"- — An Ex-Director and liis "Hacienda" — Shore of the Lake in the Even- 
ing — Old Castle — The " Oracion"— An Evening Visit to the Senoritas — Opera amidst 
Orange Groves — " Alertas" and " Quien Vivas ?" — The Granadinas at Home — An Episode 
on Women and Dress — Mr. Estevens — " Los Malditos Inglesas" — ^A Female Antiquarian 
Coadjutor — " Cigaritas" — Indian Girls — Countrymen — An American "Medico" — Native 
Hospitality to Strangers — The Ways infested by " Facciosos" — An American turned 
Back— Expected Assault on the City, and Patriotic Resolves " To Die under the American 
Flag" — A Note on Horses and Saddles — Visit to the Cacao Estates of the Malaccas — The 
Cacao Tree — Day-Dreams — An Adventure, almost — Grievous Disappointment — Somoza, 
the Robber Chief — Our Armory — Feverishness of the Public Mind — Life under the Trop- 
ics — ^A Frightened American, who had " seen Somoza," and his Account of the Interview 
— Somoza' s Love for the Americans— Good News from Leon — Approach of the General-in 
Chief, and an Armed American Escort — Condition of Public Affairs — Proclamation of the 
Supreme Director — Decrees of the Government — Official Announcements, and Public Ad- 
dresses — How they Exhibited the Popular Feeling — Nicaraguan Rhetoric — Decisive Mea- 
sures to put down the Insurgents — General Call to Arms — Martial Law — Publication of a 
"Banda" — Great Preparations to Receive the General-in-Chief and his "Veteranos" — 
No further Fear of the " Facciosos" — A Break-neck Ride to the " Laguna de Salinas" — 
A Volcanic Lake — Descent to the Water — How came Alligators there ? — Native " Aguar- 
diente" " not bad to take" — Return to the City — A Religious Procession — The Host — In- 
creasing Tolerance of the People — Preparations for " La Manana." . . . 120 

CHAPTER VT.— Discovery of Nicaragua in 1522 ; Gil Gonzales de Avila, and his march 
into the Country ; Lands at Nicoya ; Reaches Nicaragua and has an Interview with its 
Cazique ; Is closely questioned ; Marches to Dirianga, where he is at first received, but 
afterwards attacked and forced to retreat ; Peculiarities of the Aborigines ; Their wealth; 
Arrival of Francisco Hernandez de Cordova; He subdues the country, and founds the 
cities of Granada and Leon ; Return of Gonzales ; Quarrels between the Conquerors ; 
Pedro Arias de AvUa, the first Governor of Nicaragua ; His death ; Is succeeded by Ro- 
derigo de Contreras ; His son, Hernandez de Contreras, rebels against Spain ; Meditates 
the entire independence of all Spanish America on the Pacific ; Succeeds in carrying Ni- 
caragua; Sails for Panama; Captures it; Marches on Nombre de Dios, but dies on the 
way ; Failure of his daring and gigantic Project ; Subsequent Incorporation of Nicaragua 
in the Vice-Royalty of Guatemala — The City of Granada in 1665, by Thomas Gage, an 
English Monk; Nicaragua called "Mahomet's Paradise;" The Importance of Granada at 
that Period ; Subsequent Attack by the Pirates, in 1668 ; Is Burnt ; Their Account of it ; 
The Site of Granada ; Eligibility of its Position ; Population ; Commerce ; Foreign 
Merchants ; Prospective Importance — Lake Nicaragua ; Its Discovery and Exploration ; 
Interesting Account of it by the Chronicler Oviedo, written in 1541 ; Its Outlet Discovered 
by Captain Diego Machuca ; The wild beasts on its Shores ; The Laguna of Songozona ; 
Sharks in the Lake, their Rapacity ; Supposed Tides in the Lake : Explanation of the 
Phenomenon, 166 

CHAPTER VIL— Narrative Continued— Arrival of the General-in-Chief— The Army- 
Fireworks by Daylight — Prisoners — Interview with Gen. Muiloz — Arrival of the Catifor- 
nian Escort—" Piedras Antiguas"— The Stone of the Big Mouth—" El Chiflador"— Other 
Antiquities — Preparations for Departure — Carts and " Carreteros" — ^Vexatious Delays — 
Departure— How I got a Good Horse for a Bad Mule on the Road— Distant View of the 
Lakes— The Freedom of the Forest — ^Arrival at Masaya — Grand Entree — Deserted Plaza — 
A Military Execution — ^A " Posada" — " Hijos de Washington" — Disappointed Municipal- 
ity — We escape an Ovation — Road to Nindiri— Apostrophe to Nindiri! — Overtake the 
Carts — "Alguna Fresca" — Approach the Volcano of Masaya — The "Mai Pais" — Lava 
Fields— View of the Volcano— Its Eruptions—" El Inferno de Masaya," the Hell of Ma- 
saya— Oviedo' s Account of his Visit to it in 1529— Activity at that Period— The Ascenl^- 
The Crater— Superstitions of the Indians— The Old Woman of the Mountain— The De- 
scent of the Fray Bias CastUlo into the Crater, 1T2 



CONTENTS. Vll 

CHAPTER VIII. — Magnificent Views of Scenery — " Eelox del Sol" — John Jones and An- 
tiquities — An "Alarm;" Revolvers and a Rescue — Distant Bells — Don Pedro Blanco — 
Managua — Another Grand Entree — Our Quarters — Supper Service — Enacting the Lion — 
Virtues of Aguardiente — An " Obsequio," or Torch-liglit Procession in Honor of the: 
,„ United States — A National Anthem— Niglit with the Fleas — Fourth of July and a Pa- 
triotic Breakfast — Saint Jonathan — Leave Managua — Matearas — Privileges of a " Com- 
padre" — Lake of Managua — A. magnificent View — The Volcano of Momotombo — A Soli- 
tary Ride — Geological Puzzle — Nagarote — The Posada — Mules abandoned — A Sick Cali- 
foriiiau — Dinner at a Padre's — The Santa Annita — Virtues of a Piece of Stamped Paper — 
A Storm in the Forest — Pueblo Nuevo — Five Daughters in Satin Shoes — Unbroken Slum- 
bers — Advance on Leon — Asusco — A Fairy-Glen — The great Plain of Leon — A " touch" 
of Poetry — Meet the American Consul — A Predicament — Cavalcade of Reception — New 
Illustration of Republican Simplicity — El Convento — A Metamorphosis — The Bishop of 
Nicaragua — Forest, Miss Clifton, Mr. Clay — Criticism on Oratory — Nine Volcanoes in a 
row — Distant View of the Great Cathedral — The City — Imposing Demonstrations — The 
Grand Plaza — A Pantomimic Speech and Reply — The Ladies, "God bless theml" — 
House of the American Consul — End of the Ceremonies — Self-congratulations thereon — 
A Serenade — Martial Aspect of the City — Trouble anticipated — Precautions of the Govern- 
ment, . . • 1911 

CHAPTER IX ^The City of Leon— Originally built on the Shores of the Lake Managua- 
Cause of its Removal — Its present Site — Dwellings of its Inhabitants — Style of Building — 
Devastation of the Civil Wars — Public Buildings — The Great Cathedral — Its Style of 
Architecture* Interior ; Magnificent View from the Roof — The " Cuarto de los Obispos," 
or Gallery of the Bishops — The University — The Bishop's Palace — " Casa del Gobierno" 
"Cuartel General" — The Churches of La Merced; Calvario ; Recoleccion— Hospital of 
San Juan de Dios — Stone Bridge — 'Indian Municipality of Subtiaba — Population of Leon- 
Predominance of Indian Population — Destruction of Stocks — Mixed Races — Society of 
Leon — The Females ; their Dress — Social Gatherings : the " Tertulia" — How to "break 
the Ice" and open a Ball — Native Dances — Personal cleanliness of the People — General 
Temperance — "Aguardiente" and "Italia" — Food — The TortUla — Frijoles — Plantains — 
The Markets — Primitive Currency — Meals — Coffee, Chocolate, and " Tiste" — Dulces — 
Trade of Leon, , . 236 

CHAPTER X.— The Vicinity of Leon— The Bishop's Baths— Fuenta de Asusco- " Cerro 
de Los Americanos" — A Military Ball and Civic Dinner — General Guerrero — Official 
Visit from the Indian Municipality of Subtiaba — Simon Roque — ^A Secret — Address and 
Reply — Visit Returned — The Cabildo — ^An Empty Treasury — " Subtiaba, Leal y Fiel" — 
Royal Cedulas — Forming a Vocabulary — "Una Decima"— The Indians of Nicaragua; 
Stature ; Complexion ; Disposition ; Bravery ; Industry ; Skill in the Arts — Manufacture 
of Cotton — Primitive Mode of Spinning — Tyrian Purple — Petates and Hammocks — 
Pottery — "Aguacales," and "Jicoras" — Costume — Ornaments — ^Aboriginal Institutions 
— The Conquest of Nicaragua — Enormities practised toward the Indians — Present Con- 
dition of the Indians — The Sequel of Somoza's Insurrection — Battles of the Obraje 
and San Jorge — Capture and Execution of Somoza — Moderate Policy of the Govern- 
ment — Return of General Mniioz — ^Medals — Festival of Peace — Novel Procession — A 
Black Saint, 260 

CHAPTER XI. — Antiquities — Ancient Statue in the Grand Plaza — Monuments on the 
Island of Momotombita in Lake Managua — Determine to visit them — The Padre Paul — 
Pueblo Nuevo and our Old Hostess — A Night Ride — " Hacienda de las Vacas" — A Night 
amongst the " Vaqueros" — The Lake — Our Bongo — Visit the Hot Springs of Momotombo 
— ^Attempt to reach one of the "Infernales" of the Volcano — Terrible Heat — Give up the 
Attempt — Oviedo's Account of the Volcano — "Punta de los Pajaros" — Momotombita — 
Dread of Rattlesnakes — The Monuments — Resolve to remove the largest — A Nest of 
Scorpions — Tribulation of our Crew — Hard Work — How to ship an Idol — Virtues of 
Aguardiente — " Purchasing an Elephant"' — More "Piedras Antiguas" — The Island once 
Inhabited — Supposed Causeway to the Main-land — A Perilous Night Voyage — Difficult 
Landing — Alacran, or Scorpion Dance — A Foot-march in the Forest — The " Hacienda de 
los Vacas" again — Scant Supper — Return to Leon— The Idol sent, via Cape Horn, to 
Washington — A Satisfied Padre — Idols from Subtiaba — Monstrous Heads — Visit to an 
Ancient Temple — Fragments — More Idols — Indian Superstitions — " El Toro" — Lightning 
on Two Legs — A Chase after Horses — Sweet Revenge — " Capilla de la Piedra" — Place of 
the Idol — The Fray Francisco de BohadiUa — How he Converted the Indians — Probable 
History of my Idols — The Ancient Church "La Mercedes de Subtiaba" — Its Ruins — 
" Agarrapatas" — ^Tropical Insects — Snakes and Scorpions versus Fleas and Wood-ticks — 
A Choice of Evils 284 

CHAPTER XII. — Amusements in Leon — Cock Fighting — " Patio de Los Gallos" — Decline 
of the Cock-pit — Gaming — Bull Baiting — Novel Riding — " Una Sagrada Funcion," or 



Vlll CONTENTS. 

Mystery — A Poem, and a Drama — "Una Compania de Funamttulos," or Rope Danc- 
ers — Great Anticipations — A Novel Theatre— The Performance — "La Jovena Ca- 
talina" and tlie "Eccentric Clown, Simon" — "Tobillos Gruesos," or "Big Ankles" 
— "Fiestas," and Saints' Days — The "Fiesta" of St. Andrew — Dance of the Devils 
— Unearthly Music — ^All-Saints' Day — A Carnival in Suhtiaba — ^An Abrupt Conclu- 
sion, 302 

CHAPTER XIII.— A Sortie from Leon— Quesalguaque— El Estero de Dona Paiala- The 
" Monte de San Juan" — Summary way of disposing of " Ladrones" — " El Tigre," Jaguar, 
or Ounce, Its Habits; How Hunted — The "Lion," or Puma — ^The "Coyote" — Posultega — 
A Specimen Padre — Sobrinas — Chiohigalpa — Poised Thunder-storm — The Oracion — Ha- 
cienda of San Antonio — Chinandega — A Challenge — El Viejo — ^Familiar Fixtures — An 
Enterprizing Citizen and his Ti'agic Fate — A Decaying Town — Horses vn. Mules — ^Visit 
to the Haciendas — An Indigo Estate, and a Mayor Domo — Fine View — The Sugar Estate 
of San Geronimo — Bachelor Quarters and Hacienda Life — A Fruit Garden— The Bread- 
Fruit— Sugar-mills, and the Manufacture of Aguardiente — A Sinful Siesta — ^Visit From 
the Municipality — "Una Cancion" — Chinandega by Daylight — Realejo — Port and Har- 
bor — The Progress of Enterprize — The Projected New Town of Corinth — Return to 
Leon, 328 

CHAPTER XIV. — The Priesthood in Nicaragua — Decline in the Influence of the Church^ 
— Banishment of the Archbishop — Suppression of the Convents — Prohibition of Papal 
Bulls — Legitimization of the Children of Priests — The Three Abandoned Convents of 
Leon — Padre Cartine, the last of the Franciscans — Reception, or Clock-room — The Pa- 
dre's Pets ; His Oratory ; Private Apartments ; "Workshop — A Skull and its History — 
The Eglesia del Recoleccion — The Padre as a Landlord ; As a Painter ; As an Uncle ; 
And as Negociator in Marriage — An Auspicious Omen — Death of the Vicar of the Diocess 
of Nicaragua — His Obsequies — A Funeral Oration — Priestly Eloquence — An Epitaph — 
General Funeral Ceremonies — Death as an Angel of Mercy — Burial Practices — Capella- 
nias ; Their Effects, and the Policy of the Government in Respect to them — Popular Bi- 
gotry and Superstition — An Ancient Indulgence — The Potency of an Ejaculation — Remis- 
sion of Sins — Penetencias — Rationale of the Practice — Novel Penances — Turning Sins to 
Good Account — Good from Evil — System of the Padre Cartine — The Diocess of Nicara 
gua, and its Bishop — General Education — Public Schools — The Universities of Leon and 
G-ranada — A Sad Picture, ... 854 

CHAPTER XV. — Visits to the capital City, Managua — Legislative Assembly ; Ho-w to procure 
a Quorum — Executive Message — Ratification of Treaty with the United States — Antiquities 
— Lake of Nihapa — Huertas — Dividing Ridge — Traces of Volcanic Action — Hacienda de 
Ganado — An Extensive Prospect — Extinct Crater — Ancient Paintings on the Cliffs- 
Symbolical Feathered Serpent— A Natural Temple — Superstitions of the Indians- 
Salt Lake — Laguna de Las Lavadoras— A Courier — Three Months Later from Home 
— The Shore of Lake Managua — Aboriginal Fisheries — Ancient Carving — Population 
of Managua — Resources of surrounding Country — Coffee — Inhabitants — Visit Tipitapa 
— Sunrise on the Lake — Hot Springs — Outlet of Lake — Mud and Alligators — Dry 
Channel — ^Village of Tipitapa — Surly Host — Salto de Tipitapa — Hot Springs again — 
Stone Bridge — Face of the Country — Nicaragua or Brazil Wood — Estate of Pasquel — 
Practical Communism — Matapalo or KUl-tree — Landing and Estero of Pasquel or Pana- 
loya — Return — Depth of Lake Managua — Communication between the two Lakes — Popu- 
lar Errors, 882 

CHAPTER XVI. — Second Antiquarian Expedition — The Shores of Lake Managua once 
more — Matearas — Don Henrique's Comadre — I am engaged as Godfather — An Amazon — 
Santa Maria de Buena Vista — A " Character" in Petticoats — " La Negrita y La Blanquita" 
; — Purchase of Buena Vista — A Yankee Idea in a Nicaraguan Head — Hints for Specula- 
tors — Muchacho ■ws. Burro — Equestrian Intoxication — Another Apostrophe ! — Pescadors — 
" Hay no mas," and "Esta aqui," as Measures of Distance — Managua — The " Malpais," 
Nindiri and Masaya — Something Cool — A Pompous Alcalde — How to Arrest Conspirators 
— Flowers of the Palm — Descent to the Lake — Memorials of Catastrophes — Las Agua- 
doras — New Mode of Sounding Depths — Ill-bred Monkeys — Traditional Practices — Ovie- 
do's Account of the Lake in 1529 — Sardines — The Plaza on Market Night— A Yankee 
Clock — Something Cooler — A State Bedroom for a Minister — Ancient Church — Filling out 
a Vocabulary — " Quebrada de las Inscripciones" — Sculptured Rocks — Their Character — 
Ancient Excavations in the Rock — " El BaiSo" — Painted Rocks of Santa Catariaa — Night 
Ride to Granada — The Laguna de Salinas by Moonlight — Granada in Peace — A Query 
Touching Human Happiness — New Quarters and Old Friends — ^An American Sailor — His 
Adventures — "Win or Die" — A Happy Sequel, 412 

CHAPTER XVII. — ^Visit to Pensacola — Discovery of Monuments — Search for others — Suc- 
cess — Departure for "El Zapatero" — La Carlota — Los Corales — Isla de La Santa Rosa — 



CONTENTS. 'IX 

A Night Voyage — Arrival at Zapatcro — Search for Monuments — False Alarm — Disoovcry 
of Statues— ludians from Omotopcc — A Strong: Force — Further Investigations — Mad 
Dance — F/xtiuct Crater and Volcanic Lake— Stone of Sacrifice — El Canon — Description of 
Monuments, and their probable Origin— Life on the Island, 44G 

CHAPTER XVin.— Eeturn to Granada— A Ball in Honor of " El Ministro"— The Funam- 
bnlos — Departure for Rivas or Nicaragua — Hills of Scorije — The Insane Girl and the 
Brown Samaritan — A Way-side Idol — Mountain Lakes and Strange Birds — A Sudden 
Storm — Take Refuge among the "Vaqueros" — Inhospitable Reception — Night Ride; 
Darkness and Storm — Friendly Indians — Indian Pueblo of Nandyme — The Hacienda of 
Jesus Maria— An Astonished Mayor Domo — How to get a Supper — Jicorales — Ocho- 
mogo — Rio Gil Gonzales — The " Obraje" — Rivas and its Dependencies — Seiior Hur- 
tado — His Cacao Plantation — The City — Effect of Earthquakes and of Shot — Attack 
of Somoza — Another American — His attempt to cultivate Cotton on the Island of Ome- 
tepec — JIurder of his Wife — Failure of his Enterprize — A Word about Cotton Policy — 
The Antiquities of Ometepec — Aboriginal Burial Places — Funeral Vases — Relics of 
Metal — Golden Idols — A Copper Mask — Antique Pottery — A Frog in Verd Antique — 
Sickness of my Companions — ^The Pueblo of San Jorge — Shore of the Lake — Feats 
of Horsemanship — Lance Practice — Visit Potosi — Another Remarkable Relic of Aborig- 
inal Superstition — The Valley of Brito — An Indigo Estate — Cultivation of Indigo — 
Village of Brito — ^A Decaying Family and a Decayed Estate — An Ancient Vase — Obser- 
vations on the Proposed Canal^Eeturn alone to Granada — Despatches — ^A forced March 
to Leon, , . . 490 

CHAPTER XIX. — ^Volcanoes of Central America ; their Number — ^Volcano of JoruUo— 
Isalco — The Volcanic Chain of the Marabios— Infernales — "La Baila de Los Demonios" — 
Volcanic Outburst on the Plain of Leon — Visit to the New Volcano, and Narrow Escape — 
Baptizing a Volcano — Eruption of Coseguina — Celebration of its Anniversary — Syn- 
chronous Earthquakes — Late Earthquakes in Central America — Volcano of Telica — 
El Volcan Viejo — Subterranean Lava Beds — Activity of the Volcanoes of the Marabios 
in the 16th Century — The Phenomena of Earthquakes — Earthquate of Oct. 2T, 1849 — 
Volcanic Features of the Country — Extinct Craters — ^Volcanic Lakes — The Volcano of 
Nindiri or Masaya — Descent into it by the Fray Bias de Castillo — Extraordinary De- 
scription, 524 

CHAPTER XX. — Christmas — Nacimientos — The Cathedral on Christmas Eve — Midnight 
Ceremonies — ^An Alarm — Attempt at Revolution— Fight in the Plaza— Triumph of Order 
— The Dead — Melancholy Scenes — A Scheme of Federation, 550 

CHAPTER XXI.— The "Paseo al Mar"— Preparations for the Annual Visit to the Sea— 
The Migration — Impromptu Dwellings — Indian Potters — The Salines — The Encampment 
— First Impressions — Contrabanda — Old Friends — The Camp by Moonlighf>— Practical 
Jokes — A Brief Alarm — Dance on the Shore — Un Juego— Lodgings, Cheap and Romantic 
— An Ocean Lullaby — Morning— Sea Bathing — Routine of the Paseo — -Divertisements — 
Return to Leon, 560 

CHAPTER XXII. — Proposed Visit to San Salvador and Honduras— Departure from Leon 
Chinandega — Ladrones — The Goitre — Gigantic Forest Trees — Port of Tempisque — The 
Estero Real and its Scenery — A novel Custom house and its Commandante— Night on the 
Estero — Bay of Fonseca — Volcano of Conseguina — The Island of Tigre — Port of Amapala 
— ^View from the Island — Entrance to the Bay — Sacate Grande — Exciting News from Hon- 
duras — English Fortifications — Extent, Resources, and Importance of the Bay — Depart- 
ure for the Seat of War, 574 

CHAPTER XXIII. — Departure for San Lorenzo — Morning Scenes — Novel Cavalcade — 
A High Plain — Life amongst Revolutions — Nacaome — Military Reception — General 
Cabanas — An Alarm — Negotiations — British Interference — A Truce — Prospects of Ad- 
justment — ^An Evening Review — ^The Soldiery — A Night Ride — Return to Scin Lo- 
renzo, 594 

CHAPTER XXIV. — La Union — Oysters — American Books — Chiquirin — French Frigate 
" La Serieuse" — Admiral Hornby of the Asia, 84 — French and English war Vessels — ^As- 
cent of the Volcano of Conchagua — ^A Mountain Village— Peculiarities Of the Indians — Las 
Tortilleras — Volcano of San Miguel — Fir Forests — An Ancient Volcano Vent — The Crater 
of Conchagua — Peak of Scori» — View from the Volcano — Enveloped in Clouds — Perilous 
Descent — ^Yololtoca — Pueblo of Conchagua again — An Obsequio — Indian Welcome — Se- 
mana Santa — De^'ils — Surrender of Guardiola — San Salvador — ^Its Condition and Rela- 
tions, 612 



X' CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER XXV. — Departure for the United States — ^An American Hotel in Granada — Los 
Cocos — Voyage through the Lake — Descent of the Eiver — San Juan — Chagres — Home — 
Outline of Nicaraguan Constitution — Conclusion of Narrative, .... 632 



APPENDIX. 



CHAPTEE L — General Account of Nicaragua ; its Boundaries, Topography, Lakes, Rivers, 
Ports, Climate, Population, Productions, Mines, etc., etc., 639 

CHAPTER IL — The Proposed Inter-Oceanic Canal; Early Explorations; Survey of 
Colonel ChUds in 1851 ; Various Lines proposed from Lake Nicaragua to the Pacific, 
etc., etc., ■ , 657 

CHAPTER TIL — Outline of Negotiations in respect to the Proposed Canal, etc., etc. 672 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 



. MAP. 

'^ Gknbeal Map op NioAKAauA. 

LITHOGKAPHS. 

PAGE 

• 1— Idols at Zapateko, Nos. 2 and 3, Facing 474 

2 — Idols at Zapateeo, Nos. 4 and 5, " 478 

. 8 — Idols at Zapateeo, Nos. 6 and 7, " 479 

g 4 — Idols at Zapateko, Nos. 15 and 16, " 486 

"WOOD ENGEAVINGS. 

1— Arms of Nioabagua, Title. 

2 — View of Lake Nioakagtta, from the Sandoval Hacienda, nbab Gra- 
nada, Frontispiece. 

3 — San Jtjan db Nicaeagtja, 1849, 25 

4 — " OuE HoTTSB," San Juan, 35 

5 — Hut op Mosquito Indians, 89 

6— San Juan db Nioaeagua, 1853, 54 

7 — The Bongo " La Granadina," 60 

8 — View on San Juan Eivee, 78 

9— El Castillo Viejo, ok Old Port, 77 

10— Sentinel's Bos at El Castillo, 82 

11— The Iguana, ■ 90 

12— FoET op San Caelos, 95 

13 — Storm on Lake Nicaragua, 99 

14 — Pueblo of San Miguelito, 99 

15— The Plantain Tree, 109 

16— Ancient Vase, 110 

17— NicAEAGUAN Meat Market, 110 

18 — Views on Eoad to the Malaccas, 156 

19 — PtEDRA DB LA BOOA, 179 

20— NiCAEAGUAN Cart, 182 

21 — Ageioultueal Implements, 200 

22— View op Lake Managua, 209 

23— View neae Naqaeote, 209 

24 — House in Pueblo Nuevo, 221 

25 — Plan op House in Leon, 241 

26 — Great Cathedral of Leon, 244 

27 — Church of Merced and Volcano op El Viejo, 247 

28— Volcanoes op Axusco and Momotombo, 247 

29 — Ancient Metlal oe Geindinq Stone, 256 

80 — Ornaments on Same, 257 

81 — Machete and Toledo, 260 

32 — Parochial Church of Subtiaba, 266 

33 — Primitive Spinning Apparatus, 269 

84 — Spinning, from a Mexican MS., 270 

35— Peimitivb WEAvrNG, 271 

86 — Modern Potteet and Carving, 278 

87 — Indian Girl, in full Costume, 275 

38 — COURTTAED OF HousE IN Lbon, 284 

39 — Idol from Momotombita, No. 1, 286 

40 — Idol from Momotombita, No. 2, 296 

41 — ^Feont View of Same, 297 



XU liiLUSTEATIONS. 

PAGE 

42 — Colossal Head feom Momotombita, 298 

43— Idol pkom StrBTiABA, No. 1, 802 

44 — Idol peom Subtiaba, No. 2, 303 

45— Idol from Sttbtiaba, No. 8, 304 

46— Side Vib-w of Idol No. 1, 811 

4T — Idol feom Sttbtiaba, No. 4, 812 

48 — EtJiJTS of Ancient OnirECir, 812 

49 — Steeet View in Leon, 323 

50— NicABAGUAN Plough 327 

51 — Peocession of Holt Week, 328 

52 — Geneeal View of Chlnendaga, 349 

53— Chtteoh and Plaza of Chinendaga, 351 

54^-PoET of Eealbjo, 351 

55 — Lake Nihapa, as Extinct Ceatee, 392 

56— Painted Eooks of Managua, 393 

57 — Santiago, an Ancient Oaeting 401 - 

58 — Idol at Managua, 402 

59 — Lake and VoLOAifo of Masata, 425 

60— EuiNED Gateway, Masata, 425 

61 — Soulptuebd Eooks of Masata, 437 

62 — ^VlEW IN THE " QUEBKADA DE LAS InSCEIPOIONES," 439 

63— Chueoh of San Feanoisco, Geanada, 443 

64 — Idol at Pbnsacola, No. 1, 451 

65 — Idol at Pbnsacola, No. 2, 455 

66— Idol at Pbnsacola, No. 8, 455 

67 — The Bongo " La Oaelota," 459 

68 — Idol at Zapateeo, No. 1, 471 

69 — Stone of Saoeifice, 474 

70— Plan of Monuments, 477 

71— Idol at Zapateeo, No. 9, 481 

72 — Idol at Zapateeo, No. 10, 483 

73 — Idols at Zapateeo, Nos. 11 and 12, 485 

74 — Idol at Zapateeo, No. 18, 486 

75 — Soulptuebd Eock, 488 

76 — BuEiAL Vases feom Omotepec .■ 509 

77 — Vases feom Omotepec, 510 

78— CoppEE Mask, 511 

79 — Feog in Geeen Stone, 511 

80 — Geoup of Aboeiginal Eelics, 515 

81— New Volcano on Plain of Leon, 515 

82— The Paeoqubt, 550 

83— View on Lake Managua, 560 

84— The Toucan, 574 

85 — The Oeimson Ceane, 582 , 

86— View on the Estbeo Ebal, 587 

87 — Volcano of Cosbguina feom the Sea, 587 

88— Volcano of Cosbguina, 589 

89— Mountain Sceneet in Hondueas, 601 

90 — La Union and Volcano op Conohagua, 612 

91 — Chueoh of La Union, 612 

92— La8 Toetilleeas, 621 

98 — Volcano of Omotepec feom Viegin Bat, 643 

94^PoET op San Juan del Sue, 646 

95— Mouth of Eio Lajas, 660 



PREFACE 
TO REVISED EDITION 



Since the publication of the original edition of this 
work, in 1852, the beautiful but hapless Republic of 
Nicaragua has been the theatre of a series of startling 
events which have concentrated upon it not only the 
attention of the American public, but of all civilized 
nations. It has been made the arena of aimless, and 
not always reputable diplomatic contests, and of an 
obstinate and bloody struggle between a handful of 
Northern adventurers and an effete and decadent race. 
And unless the future shall strangely betray the in- 
dications of the present, it is destined to pass through 
a succession of still severer throes, in its advance to 
that political status and commercial importance in- 
separable from its geographical position and natural 
resources. For, in Nicaragua, and there- alone, has 



XIV PREFACE. 

Nature combined those requisites for a water com- 
munication between the seas, wMch has so long been 
the dream of entbusiastSj and wbicli is a desidera- 
tum of this age, as it will be a necessity of the next. 
There too has she lavished, with a bountiful hand, 
her richest tropical treasures; and the genial earth 
waits only for the touch of industry to reward the 
husbandman a hundredfold with those products, which, 
while they contribute to his wealth, add to the com- 
fort and give employment to the laborer of distant 
and less favored lands. 

Pubhc interest, and especially American interest 
in Nicaragua must therefore constantly increase ; and 
the desire to know the characteristics of the coun- 
try, its scenery and products, and the habits and 
customs of its people, can never diminish. In the 
Narrative which foUows, these are faithfully present- 
ed ; and though, in some cases, there may be a need- 
less amphtude of incidents, yet even this is probably 
not without its use in reheving descriptions and de- 
tails which might otherwise prove dry and repulsive 
in form. In all essential respects, Nicaragua is httle 
changed since 1850, and since a later visit of the 
author in 1854. It is true, Grranada has been added 



PREFACE. XV 

to its list of ruined cities, and Rivas and Masaya 
bear the scars of battles on their walls. The people 
have perhaps a more thoughtful look, as becomes 
men realizing that the fulness of time has finally 
brought them within the circle of the world's move- 
ment, and that they must assume and discharge the 
responsibilities of their new position, or give place to 
those who are equal to the requirements of this age 
and prompt to recognize their duties to their fellow 
men. 

But in all other respects, as I have said, the coun- 
try is unchanged. Its high and regular volcanic 
cones, its wooded plains, broad lakes, bright rivers, 
and emerald verdure are still the same. The agua- 
dora still steps along firmly under her heavy water 
jar, or climbs, panting, up the cliffs that surround the 
Lake of Masaya. The naked children, in average 
color possibly a shade lighter than before, still be- 
stride the hips of nurse or mother. Small and pen- 
sive mules still trudge to market, ears and feet alone 
visible beneath their green loads of sacate. The 
moso and his machete, the red-belted cavalier, on scar- 
let pillion, pricking his champing horse through the 
streets, the languid Sefiora puflSng the smoke of her 



XVI PREFACE 

cigaretta in lazy jets through her nostrils — ^the sable 
priestj with gallo under his arm, hurrying to the near- 
est cock pit — ^the shrill quien vive of the bare-footed 
sentinel — ^the rat-tat-too of the afternoon drum — ^the 
eternal Saints' days, and banging homlas — all, all are 
the same ! 

New Toek, September, 1859 



NARRATIVE. 



CHAPTER I. 

THE BRIG FRANCIS — DEPARTURE PROM NEW YORK — SAN DOMINGO —THE COAST 

OF CENTRAL AMERICA MONKEY POINT SHREWD SPECULATIONS A NAKED 

PILOT — ALMOST A SHIPWRECK — SAN JUAN DE NICARAGUA — MUSIC OF THE 
CHAIN CABLE — A POMPOUS OFFICIAL DELIVERING A LETTER OF INTRODUC- 
TION — TERRA FIRMA AGAIN — "nAGUAS" AND " GUTPILS" THE TOWN AND 

ITS LACUNA — SNAKES AND ALLIGATORS — PRACTICAL EQUALITY — CELT VS. 
NEGRO — A WAN POLICEMAN — THE BRITISH CONSUL GENERAL FOR MOSQ.UHTA — 
"our house" in SAN JUAN — ^AN EMEUTE — PIGS AND POLICE — A VISCOMTE 
ON THE STUMP — A SERENADE — MOSQUITO INDIANS — A PICTURE OF PRIMITIVE 
SIMPLICITY. 

The following narrative will serve to give a general, and. 
on the whole, it is believed, a correct notion of the State or 
Republic of Nicaragua, and of the character and peculiarities 
of its inhabitants, as they would be apt to impress themselves 
' on the mind of a traveller without strong prejudices, with 
good health and a cheerful temper, and disposed withal to 
regard men and things from a sunny point of view. Matters 
of a didactic kind, statistics, and information on special sub- 
jects, such as the proposed Interoceanic Canal, are left to 
find a place, as they best can, after impressions and incidents 
— 'the round of beef, in this instance, following the sweets 
and pastry. 

The point in Nicaragua most accessible to the traveller 
from the United States, is the now well-known port of San 
Juan de Nicaragua, which our respected uncle of England, 
in furtherance of some occult designs of his own, has vainly 
endeavored to christen anew with the ghastly name of " Grey- 
town." The little brig " Francis" was up for this port in the 

2 



18 NICAEAGUA— NAEEATIVE. 

early part of May, in the year of grace 1849 ; and, for satis- 
factory reasons, overruling all choice in the premises, berths 
were engaged in her for myself and companions. She lay at 
the foot of Eoosevett street, in the t&rra incognita beyond the 
Bowery, — a pigmy amongst the larger vessels which sur- 
rounded her. We reported ourselves on board, in compli- 
ance with the special request of the owners, at 9 o'clock on 
the morning of the 11th, just as the human tide ebbed from 
the high-water mark of Fourth street and Union Square, and 
subsided for the day amongst the rugged banks and danger- 
ous shallows of Wall and Pearl streets. 

The Francis had received her freight, and her decks were 
encumbered with pigs and poultry, spars and tarpaulins, to 
say nothing of water casks and tar barrels, forbidding in 
advance any peregrinations, by unsteady landsmen, beyond 
the quarter deck. The quarter deck was so called by cour- 
tesy only : it was elevated but a few inches above the waist, 
and, deducting the room occupied by hen-coops, water-casks, 
and the man at the helm, afforded but about ten square 
feet of space, in which the unfortunate passengers might 
" recreate" themselves. This might have sufficed for men of 
moderate desires, but then it was far from being " contigu- 
ous territory." 

In a word, we found ourselves in the midst of a confasion 
which none but the experienced traveller can coolly con 
template. Our friends, or rather the more daring of them, 
scrambled over the intervening decks, or hailed us from the 
rigging of the neighboring vessels. We would have invited 
them on board, but there was no room to receive them ; be- 
sides the descent was perilous. All partings are much alike, 
but ours were made with a prodigious affectation of good 
spirits. We were to have sailed precisely at ten ; but when 
eleven was chimed, the number which had come "expressly 
to see us off," was sensibly diminished ; and at twelve we 
were left to our own contemplations. 



DEPARTURE FROM NEW YORK. 19 

There was a prodigious pulling of ropes ; tlie same boxes 
were tumbled from one place to anotber and back again ; 
trunks disappeared and came to ligbt, and it seemed as if 
everybody was engaged in a grand searcb for nobody knew 
wbat. At one o'clock tbe pilot came on board. The delay 
had become painfal, and now we thought the time for sailing 
had arrived. But the pilot was a fat man, and sat down im- 
perturbably upon a water-cask. " Well, Mr. Pilot, are we 
off?" He deigned no audible reply, but glanced upwards sig- 
nificantly towards the streamer at the masthead. The wind 
blew briskly in from the Narrows. So we seated ourselves 
upon the water-casks also, and watched the men who were 
painting the next ship, and almost nodded ourselves to sleep, 
to the monotonous "yo-ho" of the sailors unloading an India- 
man near by. The roar of Broadway fell subdued and dis- 
tant upon OUT ears ; and the ferry-boats and little .steamers 
in the river seemed to move aboiit in silence, going to and 
fro apparently without an object, like ants around an ant- 
hill. 

By-and-by a little, black bull-dog of a steamer thrust itself 
valiantly through the crowd of vessels, made a rope fast to 
our bows, and dragged us, with a jerk, triumphantly into the 
stream, past Grovernor's Island, down to the outer bay, and 
then left us to take care of ourselves. That night the sun 
went down cold and filmy, and the Francis tumbled roughly 
about amidst the dark waves of the Atlantic. * * * A 
calm under the high capes of San Domingo, — an infinitude of 
thunder squalls, with the pleasant consciousness of a hundred 
kegs of gunpowder stowed snugly around the foot of the 
mainmast, — a "close shave" on the coral reefe below Ja- 
maica, — for twenty -six mortal days this was all which we 
had of relief from the detestable monotony of shipboard. 
Blessed be steam I * * * * 

It was a dark and rainy morning, when " Land on the lee- 
bow," was sung out by the man at the helm, and in less time 



20 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 

tlian is occupied in writing it, tlie occupants of the close little 
cabin made their way on deck, to look for the first time upon 
the coast of Central America. The dim outlines of the land 
were just discernible through the: murky atmosphere, and 
many and profound were the conjectures hazarded as to what 
precise point was then in view. The result finally arrived at 
was, that we were off " Monkey Point," about thirty miles 
to the northward of our destined port. This conclusion was 
soon confirmed by observing, close under the shadow of the 
shore, an immense rock, rising with all the regularity of the 
Pyramids to the height of three hundred feet; a landmark 
too characteristic to be mistaken. 

We were sweeping along with a stiff breeze, and were 
comforted with the assurance that we should be in port to 
breakfast, "t/^" as the cautious captain observed, "the wind 
held." But the perverse wind did not hold, and in half an 
hour thereafter we were rocking about with a wash-tubbv 
motion, the most disagreeable that can be imagined, and of 
which we had had three days' experience under the Capes of 
San Domingo. The haze cleared a little, and with our 
glasses we could make out a long, low line of shore, covered 
with the densest verdure, with here and there the feathery 
palm, which forms so picturesque a feature in all tropical 
scenery, lifting itself proudly above the rest of the forest, and 
the whole relieved against a background of high hills, over 
which the gray mist still hung like a veil. 

Some of the party could even make out the huts on the 
shore ; but the old man at the helm smiled incredulously, 
and said there were no huts there, and that the unbroken and 
untenanted forest extended far back to the great ridge of the 
Cordilleras. So it was when the adventurous Spaniards 
coasted here three centuries ago, and so it had remained ever 
since. These observations were interrupted by a heavy 
shower, acceptable for the wind it brought, which filled the 
idle sails, and moved us towards our haven. And though 



COAST OF CENTEAL AMERICA. 21 

the rain fell in torrents, it did not deter ns from getting 
soaked, in vain endeavors to harpoon the porpoises that 
came tumbling in numbers around our bows. 

But the shower passed, and with it our breeze, and again 
the brig rocked lazily on the water, which was now filled 
with branches of trees, and among the rubbish that drifted 
past, a broken spear and a cocoa-nut attracted particular 
attention ; the one showed the proximity of a people whose 
primitive weapons had not yet given place to those more 
effective, of civilized ingenuity, and the other was a certain 
index of the tropics. The shower passed, but it had carried 
us within sight of our port. Those who had previously seen 
cabins on the shore could not now perceive any evidences of 
human habitation, and stoutly persisted that we had lost our 
reckoning, and ■ that we were far fcom our destined haven. 
But a trim schooner which was just then seen moving rapidly 
along under a pouring shower, in the same direction with 
om^selves, silenced the pretended doubters, and became im- 
mediately a subject of great speculation. It was finally 

agTced on all hands that it must be the B , a vessel which 

left New York three days before us, the captain of which had 
boasted that he would " beat us in, by at least ten days." So 
everybody was anxious that the httle brig should lead him 
into the harbor, and many were the objurgations upon the 
^vind, and desperate the attempts of the sailors to avail them- 
selves of every " cat's-paw" that passed. 

The excitement was great, and some of the impatient pas- 
sengers inquired for sweeps, and recommended putting out 
the yawl to tow the vessel in. They even forgot, such was 
the excitement, to admire the emerald shores which were now 
distinct, not more than half a mile distant, and prayed that a 
black-looking thunder-storm, looming gloomily in the east, 
might make a diversion in our favor. And then a speck was 
discerned in the direction of the port ; and by-and-by the 
movement of the oars could be seen, and bodies swaying to 



22 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 

and fro, and in due time a,pit-jpan^ a long, sharp-pointed canoe, 
pulled by a motley set of mortals, stripped to tlie waist, and 
displaying a great variety of skins, from light yellow to coal 
black, darted under our bows, and a burly fellow in a sliirt 
pulled off Ms straw liat to tlie captain, and inquired in bad 
Bnglisli, "Want-ee ah. pilot?" The mate consigned him to 
the nether regions for a lubber, and inquired what had be- 
come of his eyes, and if he couldn't tell the Francis anywhere ; 
the Francis, which " had made thirty-seven voyages to this 
port, and knew the way better than any black son of a gun 
who ever put to sea in a bread-trough !" And then the black 
fellow in a shirt and straw hat was again instructed to go 
below, or if he preferred, to go and " pilot in the lubberly 
schooner to windward." The black fellow looked blacker 
than before, and said something in an unintelligible jargon to 
the rest, and away they darted for the schooner. 

Meantime the flank of the thunder storm swept towards 
us, piling up a black line of water, crested with foam, while 
it approached with a noise like that of distant thunder. It 
came upon us ; the sails fluttered a moment and filled, the 
yards creaked, the masts bent to the strain, and the little brig 
dashed rapidly through the hissing water. In the darkness 
we lost sight of the schooner, and the shore was no longer 
visible, but we kept on our way ; the Francis knew the road, 
and seemed full of life, and eager to reach her old anchorage. 

" Don't she scud !" said the mate, who rubbed his hands in 
very glee. "K this only holds for ten minutes more, we're 
in, like a spike !" — and, strange to say, it did hold ; and when 
it was past we found ourselves close to "Point Arenas," a 
long narrow spit, partly covered with water, which shuts in 
the harbor, leaving only a narrow opening for the admission 
of vessels. The schooner was behind us, but here was a 
difficulty. The bar had changed since his last trip ; the cap- 
tain was uncertain as to the entrance, and the surf broke 
heavily under our lee. Excitement of another character pre- 



ALMOST A SHIPWRECK. 23 

vailed as we moved slowly on, where a great swell proclaimed 
the existence of shallows. The captain stood in the bow, 
•and we watched the captain. Suddenly he cried, "Hard 
a-port!" with startling emphasis, and " Hard a-port !" was 
echoed by the helmsman, as he swept ronnd the tiller. But 
it was too late ; the little vessel struck heavily as the wave 
feU. 

"Thirty-seventh, and last!" muttered the mate between 
his teeth, as he rushed to the fastenings, and the main-sail 
came down on the run. " Eound with the boom, my men !" 
and the boom swung round, just as the brig struck again, 
with gTeater force than before, unshipping the rudder, and 
throwing the helmsman across the deck. "Eound again, my 
men ! lively, or the Francis is lost !" cheered the mate, who 
seemed invested with superhuman strength and agility ; and 
as the boom swung round the wave fell, but the Francis did 
not strike. " Clear she is !" shouted the mate, who leaped 
upon the companion-way, and waved his hat in triumph; 
and turning towards the schooner, "Do that, ye divil, and 
call yerself a sailor!" There was no doubt about it; the 
Francis was in before the schooner; and notwithstanding 
the accident to her rudder, she passed readily to her old an- 
choring ground, in the midst of a spacious harbor, smooth as 
a mill-pond. There was music in the rattling cable as the 
anchor was run out, and the Francis moved slowly round, 
with her broadside towards the town. The well was tried, 
but she had made no water, which was the occasion for a new 
ebullition of joy on the part of the mate. 

All danger past, we had an opportunity to look about us. 
We were not more than two cable-lengths from a low sandy 
shore, upon which was ranged, in a line parallel to the water, 
a double row of houses, or rather huts, some built of boards, 
but most of reeds, and all thatched with palm-leaves. Some 
came down to the water, like sheds, and under one end were 
drawn up pit-pans and canoes. Larger contrivances for navi- 



24 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 

gating the San Juan river, resembling canal-boats, were also 
moored close in shorCj and upon each might be seen a num- 
ber of very long and very black legs, every pair of which' 
was surmounted by a very short white shirt. In the centre 
of the Hne of houses, which was no other than the town of 
San Juan de Nicaragua, was an open space, and in the middle 
of this was a building larger than the others, but of like con- 
struction, surrounded by a high fence of canes, and near one 
end rose a stumpy flag-staff, and from its top hung a dingy 
piece of bunting, closely resembling the British Union Jack ; 
and this was the custom-house of San Juan, the residence of 
all the British officials ; and the flag was that of the " King 
of the Mosquitos," the " ally of Grreat Britain !" 

But of this mighty potentate, and how the British officials 
came there, more anon. Just opposite us, on the shore, 
was an object resembling some black monster which had 
lost its teeth and eyes, and seemed sorry that it had left its 
kindred at the Novelty Works. It was the boiler of a 
steamer, which some adventurous Yankees had proposed 
putting up here, but which, from some defect, had proved use- 
less, r Behind the town rose the dense tropical forest. There 
were no clearings, no lines of road stretching back into the 
country ; nothing but dense, dark solitudes, where the tapir 
and the wild boar roamed unmolested ; where the painted 
macaw and the noisy parrot, flying from one giant cebia to 
another, alone disturbed the silence ; and where the many- 
hued and numerous serpents of the tropics coiled among the 
branches of strange trees, loaded with flowers and fragrant 
with precious gums. The whole scene was unprecedentedly 
novel and picturesque.; There was a strange blending of ob- 
jects pertaining to the extremes of civilization. The boiler 
of the steamer was side by side with the graceful canoe, 
identical with that in which the simple natives of Hispaniola 
brought fruits to Columbus ; and men in stiff European cos- 
tumes were seen passing among others, whose dark, naked 




"'■p|. ■■,:■ ''0f^ 



A POMPOUS OFFICIAL. 27 

bodies, protected only at tlie loins, indicated their descent 
from the aborigines who had disputed the possession of the 
soil with the mailed followers of Cordova, and made vain 
propitiations to the symbolical sun to assist them against 
their enemies. Here they were, unknowing and careless 
alike of Cordova or the sun, and ready to load themselves 
like brutes, in order to earn a sixpence with which to get 
drunk that night, in concert with the monotonous twanging 
of a two-stringed guitar ! 

Our anchor was hardly down before a canoe came along- 
side, containing as variegated an assortment of passengers as 
can well be conceived. Among them were the of&cers of the 
port, whose importance was made manifest from the nume- 
rous and unnecessary orders they gave to the oarsmen, and 
the prodigious bustle they made in getting up the side. 
They looked inquiringly at the bright sUken flag which one 
of the party held in his hands, and which looked brighter 
than ever under the rays of the setting sun. The eagles on 
the caps of the party were also objects which attracted many 
inquiring glances ; and directly the captain was withdrawn 
into a corner, and asked the significance of all this. The 
answer seemed to diminish the importance of the officials 
materially, and one approached, holding his sombrero reve- 
rently in his hand, and said that " Her Britannic Majesty's 

Consul-General in Mosquitia, Mr. C ■, was now resident 

in the town, and that he should do himself the honor to 
announce our arrival immediately, and hoped we had had a 
pleasant voyage, and that we would avail ourselves of his 
humble services ;" to all of which gracious responses were 
given, together with a drop of brandy, which last did not 
seem at all unacceptable. I had warm letters of introduction 
to several of the leading inhabitants of San Juan, and accord: 
ingly began to make inquiries as to their whereabouts of a 
respectable looking negro, who was amongst the visiting party. 
To my first question, as to whether Mr. S S was 



28 NICARAGUA— NAEEATIVE. 

then in town, tlie colored gentleman uncovered Ms head, 
bowed low, and said the humble individual named was be- 
fore me. I also uncovered myself, bowed equally low, and 
assured him I was happy to make his acquaintance, deliver- 
ing my letter at the same time with all the grace possible 
under the circumstances. 

He glanced over its contents, took off his hat again, and 
bowed lower than before. Not to be behindhand in polite- 
ness, I went through the same performance, which was re- 
sponded to by a genuflection absolutely beyond my power 
to undertake, without risk of a dislocation ; so I resigned the 
contest, and gave in "dead beat," much to the entertain- 
ment of the Irish mate, who was not deficient in the natural 
antipathy of his race towards the negro. Ben, my colored 
servant, next received a welcome not less cordial than my 
own; and my new acquaintance "was glad to inform me, 
that fortunately there was a new house under his charge, 
which was then vacant, and that he was happy in putting it 
at my disposal." The happiness was worth exactly eight 
dollars, as I discovered by a bill which was presented to me 
four days thereafter, as we were on the point of leaving for 
the interior; and which, considering that the usual rent of 
houses here is from four to five dollars per month, was pro- 
bably intended to include pay for the genuflections on ship- 
board. "We were impatient to land, and could not wait for 
the yawl to be hoisted over the side ; so we crowded our- 
selves into the canoe of the " Harbor Master," and went on 
shore. 

The population of the town was all there, many-hued and 
fantastically attired. The dress of the urchins from twelve 
and fourteen downwards, consisted generally of a straw hat 
and a cigar, the latter sometimes unlighted and stuck behind 
the ear, but oftener lighted and stuck in the mouth ; a costume 

sufficiently airy and picturesque, and, as B observed, 

" excessively cheap." 



INHABITANTS OF SAN JUAN. 29 

• 

Most of the women had a simple white or flowered skirt 
{nagua) fastened above the hips, with a ^^ guipil,^^ or sort of 
large vandyke, with holes, through which the arms were 
passed, and which hnng loosely down over the breast. In 
some cases the guvpil was rather short, and exposed a dark 
strip of skin from one to four inches wide, which the 
wanton wind often made much broader. It was very clear 
that false hips and other civilized contrivances had not 
reached here, and it was equally clear that they were not 
needed to give fullness to the female figures which we saw 
around us. All the women had their hair braided in two 
long locks which hung down behind, and which gave them 
a school-girly look quite out of keeping with the cool, dehb- 
erate manner in which they puffed their cigars, occasionally 
forcing the smoke in jets from their nostrils. Their feet 
were innocent of stockings, but the more fashionable ladies 
wore silk or satin slippers, which (it is hoped our scrutiny 
was not indelicately close) were quite as likely to be soiled on 
the inside as the out. A number had gaudy-colored rebosos 
thrown over their heads, and altogether, the entire group, 
mth an advance-guard of wolfish, sullen-looking curs, was 
strikingly novel, and not a little picturesque. We leaped 
ashore upon the yielding sand with a delight known only to 
the voyager who has been penned up for a month in a small, 
uncomfortable vessel, and without further ceremony passed 
through the crowd of gazers, and started down the principal 
avenue, which, as we learned, had been called " King street" 
since the English usurpation. The doors of the various 
queer-looking little houses were all open, and in all of them 
might be seen hammocks suspended between the front and 
back entrances, so as to catch the passing current of air. In 
some of these, reclining in attitudes suggestive of most 
intense laziness, were swarthy figures of men, whose consti- 
tutional apathy not even the unwonted occurrence of the 
arrival, at the same moment, of two ships could disturb. The 



30 NIOAE-AGUA — ^NAEEATIVE. 

"women, it is needless to say, were all on th.e beacii, except a 
few decrepit old dames, wlio gazed at us from the door- ways. 
Passing tlirongh the town, we entered tlie forest, followed by 
a train of boys and some ill-looking, grown-np vagabonds. 
The path led to a beautiful lagoon, fenced in by a bank of 
verdure, upon the edges of which were a number of women, 
naked to the waist, who had not yet heard the news ; they 
were washing, an operation quite different from that of our 
own country, and which consisted in dipping the clothes in 
the water, placing them on the bottom of an old canoe, and 
beating them violently with clubs. Yisions of buttonless 
shirts rose up incontinently in long perspective, as we turned 
down a narrow path which led along the shores of the lagoon, 
and invited us to the cool, deep shades of the forest. A flock 
of noisy paroquets were fluttering above us, and strange fruits 
and flowers appeared on all sides. We had not gone far 
before there was an odor of musk, and directly a plunge in 
the water. We stopped short, but one of the urchins waved 
his hand contemptuously, and said "Lagartos!" And sure 
enough, glancing through the bushes, we saw two or three 
monstrous alligators slowly propelling themselves through 
the water. "Devils in an earthly paradise!" muttered 

B , who dropped into the rear. The urchins noticed 

our surprise, and by way of comfort, a little naked rascal in 
advance observed, looking suspiciously around at the same 
time, ^^ Muchas culebras aqui" — "Many snakes here!" This 
interesting piece of intelhgence opened conversation, and we 
were not long in ascertaining that but a few days previously, 
two men had been bitten by snakes, and had died in frightful 
torments. It was soon concluded that we had gone far 
enough, and that we had better defer our walk in the woods 
to another day. It is scarcely necessary to observe, that it 
was never resumed. 

Eeturning, we met my colored friend, who informed me 
that there was a quantity of hides stored in the house selected 



MILLENNIAL ANTICIPATIONS. 31 

for my accommodation, but tliat lie would have tliem removed 
that evening, and the house ready for our reception in the 
morning. Kegarding ourselves as guests, whom it became 
to assent to whatever suggestion our host might make, we 
answered him that the arrangement was perfectly satisfactory, 
that we could sleep that night comfortably on board the 
vessel — a terrible fib, by the way, for we knew better — and 
that he might take his time in making such provision for us 
as he thought proper. We then sauntered through the 
town, looking into the door-ways, catching occasional glimpses 
of the domestic economy of the inhabitants, and admiring 
not a httle the perfect equahty and general good understand- 
ing which existed between the pigs, babies, dogs, cats, and 
chickens. The pigs gravely took pieces of tortillas from the 
mouths of the babies, and the babies as gravely took other 

pieces away from the pigs. B observed that this was 

as near an approach to those millennial days when the lion 
and the lamb should He down together as we should probably 
live to see, and suggested that a particular "note" should be 
made of it for the comfort of Father Miller and the Second- 
Advent Saints in general. There was one house in which 
we noticed a row of shelves containing sundry articles of 
merchandise, among which long-necked bottles of various 
pleasant hues were most conspicuous, and in front of which 
was a rude counter, behind which again was a short lady of 
considerably lighter complexion than the average, to whom 
our colored friend tipped his hat gallantly, informing us at 
the same time that this was the "Maison de Commerce de 
Viscomte A. de B B et Co. ;" the "Bt Co." consist- 
ing of the Yiscomte's wife, two sons, and five daughters, 
whose names all appeared in full in the Viscomte's circulars. 
Had we been told that here was the residence of some cazique 
with an unpronounceable name, we might have thought the 
thing in keeping, and passed on without ceremony; but a 
Yiscomte was not to be treated so lightly, and we turned 



32 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 

and bowed profoundly to the short ladj behind the counter, 
who rose and courtesied with equal profundity. 

We reached the beach just as the sun was setting, where 
we found our mate with the yawl: "An' it bates any city 
ye've seen, I'll be bound! It's pier number one, is this 
blessed spot of dirt where ye are just now ; may be ye don't 
know it ! And yonder hen-coop is the custom-house, be sure ! 
and that dirty clout is the ISTagur King's flag, bad luck to it ! 
and it's meself who expects to live to see the stripes and forty 
stars to back 'em, (divil a one less !) wavin' here ! Hurrah 
for Old Zack ! — an' it's him that can do it !" 

It was clear that our mate, who had not looked at a bottle 
during the whole voyage, thought a " d'hrap" necessary to 
neutralize the miasma of San Juan. 

" Perhaps ye know what ye'r laughing at, my dark boy ; 
an' it's meself that'll be afther givin' ye a taste of the way 
we Yankees do the thing, savin' the presence of his honor 
here," said the mate, dashing his hat on the ground, and 
advancing a step toward my new acquaintance, who recoiled 
in evident alarm. We interposed, and the mate cooled at 
once, and shook hands cordially with the colored gentleman, 
although he spoUed the amende by immediately going to the 
water's brink and carefully washing his palms. 

While this scene was transpiring, a ghostly-looking indi- 
vidual, wan with numberless fevers, approached us. He 
was dressed in white, wore a jacket and a glazed cap, and 
upon the latter, in gilded capitals, we read " Police." He 
took off his cap, bowed low, for he was used to it, and said 
that Her Britannic Majesty's Consul Greneral presented his 
respects to the gentlemen, regretted that, being confined to 
his house by bodily infirmity, he could not wait on them in 
person, and hoped that under the circumstances the gentle- 
men would do him the favor to call upon him. 

We responded by following the lead of the wan policeman 
(there was only one other, the rest had run away,) who 



THE BRITISH CONSULATE. 33 

opened a wicket leading within tlie cane enclosure of tlie 
custom-house, entered that building, and ascending a rough,, 
narrow, and ricketty flight of stairs, we were ushered into 
what at home would be called a shocking bad garret, but 
which were the apartments of Her Britannic Majesty's Consul 
General. A long table stood in the centre, and a couple of 
candles flared in the breeze that came in at the unglazed 
openings at either end of the apartment, giving a dim inter- 
mittent light, by means of which, however, we succeeded in 

discovering Mr. , the Consul General. He was reclining 

on a rude settee, and rose with difficulty to welcome us. He 
apologized for his rough quarters, betraying by his pronun- 
ciation that his youth at least had been passed among the 
haunted glens of Scotland. He had formerly been a member 
of Parliament, and had been nearly a year on this coast, in a 
service clearly little congenial to his feelings, and far from 
being in accordance with his notions of honor and justice. 
We found him intelligent and agreeable, and as free from 
prejudices as a Briton could be, without ceasing to be a Briton 
and a Scot. 

The evening passed pleasantly, ("barring" the mosquitos,) 
and though we were told of scorpions, which are often found 
when people turn down their blankets, and of numerous 
lizards, which insinuate themselves over night in one's boots, 
we were too glad to get on shore to be much alarmed by the 
recital. Upon leaving, we were pressed to come every day 
to the consulate to dine ; for we were assured, and with truth, 
that it was impossible to procure a reasonably decent meal 
elsewhere in the town. The Mcaraguans at the fort above, 
it was asserted, had bought up all the vegetables and edibles 
intended for San Juan, having determined to starve the hated 
English out, and there was not a foot of cultivated ground 
within fifty miles ; consequently the market was poorly sup- 
phed, except with ship provisions, and of these we had had 
quite enough. This was far from being comfortable, for we 

3 



d4: NICAEAGUA — ^NAEEATIVE. 

had expected to find at San Juan a profusion of all the pro- 
•ductions of the tropics, concerning which travellers had 
written so enthnsiasticallj ; to be put, therefore, on allow- 
ances of ship-biscuit and salt pork, was too much to permit 

any consideration of delicacy, so we accepted Mr. C 's 

generous offer, returning on board to be phlebotomised 
by a horde of barbarous mosquitos, and to get up next 
morning feverish and unrefreshed, and only prevented from 
appealing to the medicine-chest by the happy consciousness 
that we were near the land. 

The cook's nondescript mess to which we had been treated 
every morning since we left New York, and which had been 
called by way of courtesy "breakfast," was soon disposed of, 
and we went on shore, where our colored friend received us 
with a low bow, informing us at the same time that our house 
was ready. He led the way to a building not far distant 
fromthe"Maison de Commerce," opening upon aristocratic 
King street. It was constructed of rough boards, and was 
elevated on posts, so that everybody who entered had to take 
a short run and flying leap, and was fortunate if he did not 
miss his aim and bark his shins in the attempt. It was satis- 
factory to know that the structure was comparatively new, 
and that the colonies of scorpions, lizards, house-snakes, 
cockroaches, and the other numerous, nameless, and nonde- 
script vermin which flourish here, had not had time to mul- 
tiply to any considerable extent. And though there was a 
large pile of tobacco in bales in one corner, with no other 
object movable or immovable in the room, the novelty of 
the thing was enough to compensate for all deficiencies, and 
we ordered our baggage to be at once brought to the house. 
By way, doubtless, of indicating the capacity of the structure, 
our colored friend told us that this had been the head-quarters 
of a party of Americans bound for California for the space 
of six weeks, and that forty of the number had contrived to 
quarter here ; a new and practical illustration of the indefi- 



'•OUR house" at SAN JUAJST. 



35 



nite compressibility of Yankee matter, wliicli surpassed all 
our previous conceptions. Our friend had provided for us 
in other ways, and had engaged a place where we might 
obtain our breakfasts, and proposed to introduce us to the 




OUR HOtrSE" AT SAN JTJAN. 



family which iaras to furnish that important meal. The 
house was close by, and we were collectively and individu- 
ally presented to Monsieur S , who had been a grenadier 

under ISTapoleon, had served in numerous campaigns, had 
been in many bloody battles, and had probably escaped being 
shot because he was too thin to be hit. "We were also intro- 
duced to the spouse of Monsieur S , who was the very 

reverse of her lord, and who gave us a very good breakfast 
and superb chocolate, for which we paid only a dollar each 
per day. It was a blessed thing for our exchequer that we 
didn't dine, sup, and lodge there ! At the same place break- 
fasted a couple of Spanish gentlemen, who had come out in 
the schooner, with a valuable cargo of goods for the interior. 
Our hostess certainly could not have had the heart to charge 
them a dollar for breakfast, for they had heard of revolutions 
and a terrible civil war in Nicaragua, and had been fright- 



36 NICAEAGUA — ^ISTAEEATIVE. 

ened out of tlieir appetites. A "bad speculation" at thebest 
was before them, perhaps pecuniary ruin. We pitied them, 
but our appetites did not suffer from sympathy. 

The day was passed in receiving visits of ceremony, 
arranging our new quarters, rigging hammocks, (which we 
obtained, at but little more than twice their actual value, at 
the "Maison de" Commerce of the Viscomte,) and dragging to 
light and air our mildewed wardrobes. We thought of con- 
signing our soiled linen to the women at the lagoon ; but the 
sturdy blows of their clubs still sounded in our ears, and we 
trusted to the future ; but the fature brought rough stones in 
place of the smooth canoe ! 

That night we passed comfortably in our new quarters, 
interrupted only by various droppings from the roof, which 
the active fancies of sundry members of the party converted 
into scorpions and other noxious insects. All slept, not- 
withstanding, until broad daylight next morning, when every 
one was roused by the firing of guns, and a great noise of 
voices, apparently in high altercation, combined with the 
cackling of hens, the barking of dogs, and the squealing of 
pigs ; a noise unprecedented for the variety of its constituent 
sounds. 

" A revolution, by Jove !" exclaimed M , whose brain 

was full of the news from the interior; "it has got here 
already !" 

The doors were nevertheless thrown open, , and every un- 
kempt head was thrust out to discover the cause of the 
tumult. The scene that presented itself passes description. 
There was a mingled mass of men, women, and children, 
some driving pigs and poultry, others flourishing sticks ; here 
a woman with a pig under one arm and a pair of chickens in 
each hand ; there an urchin gravely endeavoring to carry a 
long-nosed porker, nearly as large as himself, and twice as 
noisy ; there a busy party, forming a cordon around a mother 
pig with a large family, and the whole excited, swaying, 



POLICY AND THE POLICE. 3T 

screaming mass retreating before the two policemen in wHte, 
eacli bearing a sword, a pistol, and a formidable looking 
blunderbuss. 

" Thej are driving out tlie poor people," said M ; " it 

is quite too bad !" 

But tlie manner in wliicli two or three old ladies flourished 
their sticks in the faces of our wan friend and his companion, 
betokened, I thought, anything but bodily fear. Still, the 
whole affair was a mystery ; and when the crowd stopped 
short before our doors, and every dark visage, in which anger 
and suppHcation were strangely mingled, was turned towards 
us, each individual vociferating the while, at the top of his 
voice, we were puzzled beyond measure. " Death to the 
Enghsh !" was about all we could gather, until the wan po- 
liceman came up and explained, under a torrent of vitupera- 
tion, that he and his companion were merely carrying into 
effect a wholesome regulation which Her Majesty's Consul 
General had promulgated, to the effect that the inhabitants of 
San Juan (which he called Greytown) should no longer allow 
the pigs and poultry to roam at large, but should keep them 
securely " cooped and penned," under penalty of having 
them shot by Her Majesty's servants ; and as the aforesaid 
pigs and poultry had roamed at their will since the time 
"the memory of man runneth not back thereto," and as 
there were neither coops nor pens, it was very clear that the 
wholesome regulation could be but partially complied with. 
A stout mulatto, behind the policeman, carried a pig and 
several fowls, which had evidently met a recent and violent 
end; and we had strong misgivings as to the manner in 
which the various small porkers and chickens which we had 
encountered at the consul's table had been procured. 

The pale policeman grew pathetic, and was almost moved 
to tears when he said that, while in the performance of his 
duty, he was assailed as we saw, and that all his explanations 
were unregarded, and he was disposed to do as his compan- 



38 NICAEAGUA — ^ISTAERATIYE. 

ions had done — ^run away, and leave tlie town to the do- 
minion of the pigs and chickens. 

The crowd, which had been comparatively quiet during 
this recital, now broke out in reply, and gathering counte- 
nance from the presence of the Americans, fairly hustled the 
policemen into the middle of the street, and might have 
treated them to a cold bath in the harbor, had they not been 
recalled by the voice of the Yiscomte, who mounted a block 
and declaimed furiously, in mingled Spanish and French, 
against the "perfidious English," and talked of natural and 
municipal rights in a strain quite edifying, and eminently 
French. But as the Yiscomte had been instrumental in 
bringing the English there, he did not get much of our sym- 
pathy. He had lost a pet pig that morning, which gave pith 
to his speech ; and we determined to pay our particular re- 
spects to it that evening at the consul's. 

To the appeals made to us directly, we were, as became us, 
diplomatically evasive ; but the people were easily satisfied, 
and late that night we were treated to a serenade, the pauses 
af which were filled in with, ^^Vivan los Americanos del 
Norte ; and next day the news was current that six American 
vessels of war were on their way to San Juan to drive out 
the English, whose effective force consisted of the wan police- 
man and his equally wan companion ! And the consul him- 
self did us the honor to hope that we had said nothing to 
encourage the poor people in their perversity, for he almost 
despaired of making them respectable citizens ! They couldn't 
discern, he was sorry to say, their own best interests. We 
might have suggested to him that circumstances here 
were quite different from those which surrounded the little 
towns of Scotland, and that which might be " good for the 
people" in one instance, might be eminently out of place in 
another ; but then it was none of our business. 

During the day we paid a visit to the other side of the 
harbor, where some Mosquito Indians, who came down the 



MOSQUITO INDIANS. 



39 



coast to strike turtle, had taken up tlieir temporary residence. 
They were the most squahd wretches imaginable, and their 
huts consisted of a few poles set in a slanting direction, upon 
which was loosely thrown a quantity of palm leaves. The 




HUT OF MOSQUITO INDIANS. 

sides were open, and altogether the structure must have cost 
fifteen minutes' labor. Under this shelter crowded a variety 
of half-naked figures, begrimed with dirt, their faces void of 
expression, and altogether brutish. They stared at us va- 
cantly, and then resumed their meal, which consisted of a 
portion of the flesh of the alligator and the manitus, chopped 
in large pieces and thrown into the fire until the outer por- 
tions were completely charred. These were devoured with- 
out salt, and with a wolfish greediness which was horrible to 
behold. At a little distance, away from the stench and filth, 
the huts, with the groups beneath and around them, were 
really picturesque objects. 

One hut had been vacated for the moment ; against it the 
fishing-rods and spears of its occupants were resting, and in 
front a canoe was drawn up ; this attracted our particular 
notice, and I had a sketch made of it on the spot. As we 



40 NICAEAGUA — ^NAREATIVE. 

paddled along tlie sliore, we saw many tliatched liuts in cool, 
leafy arbors, surrounded by spots of bare, hard ground, fleck- 
ered with, tlie sunlight, wMcb. danced in mazes as the wind 
waved the branches above. Around them were dark, naked 
figures, and before them were hght canoes, drawn close to 
the bank, filling out the foreground of pictures such as 
we had imagined in reading the quaint recitals of the early 
voyagers, and the effects of which were heightened by the 
parrots and macaws, fluttering their bright wings on the 
roofs of the huts, and deafening the spectator with their 
shrill voices. Occasionally a tame monkey was seen swing- 
ing by his tail from the branches of the trees, and making 
grimaces at us as we passed. 

The habits of the natives were unchanged in the space of 
three hundred years; their dwellings were the same; the 
scenes we gazed upon were counterparts of those which the 
Discoverers had witnessed. Eternal summer reigned above 
them ; their wants were few and simple, and profuse nature 
supplied them in abundance with all the necessaries of exist- 
ence. They little thought that the party of strangers, gliding 
silently before them, were there to prepare the way for the 
clanging steamer, and that the great world without was medi- 
tating the Titanic enterprise of laying open their primeval 
solitudes, grading down their hills, and opening, from one 
great ocean to the other, a gigantic canal, upon which the 
navies of the world might pass, laden with the treasures of 
two hemispheres ! 



CHAPTEE II. 

THE PORT OF SAN JUAN DE NICARAGUA; ITS POSITION; CLIMATE; POPULA- 
TION; EDIFICES OF ITS INHAJBITANTS ; ITS INSECTS; THE NIGUA ; THE SCOB 
PION, ETC. ; ITS EXPORTS AND IMPORTS ; POLITICAL CONDITION ; IMPORTANCE, 
PRESENT AND PROSPECTIVE ; SEIZURE BY THE ENGLISH, ETC. — ^MOUTH OP THE 
RIVER SAN JUAN — THE COLORADO MOUTH — THE TAURO — NAVIGATION OF THE 
RIVER — BONGOS AND PIRAGUAS — LOS MARINEROS — DISCOVERT AND EARLY 
HISTOET QF THE PORT OF SAN JUAN. 

The Port of San Juan derives its principal importance 
from tlie fact that it is tlie only possible eastern terminus for 
the proposed grand inter-oceanic canal, tkrongli the territo- 
ries of Nicaragua, via the river San Juan and Lake Nica- 
ragua ; and from the further circumstance of being the only ' 
available port of Nicaragua upon the Atlantic. The harbor 
is not large, yet it is altogether better and more spacious 
than is generally supposed. The entrance is easy, and 
vessels of the largest class find little dif&culty in passing the 
mouth, and obtaining within a safe and commodious anchor- 
age. It has been represented that, in consequence of the 
peculiar make of the land, it is extremely difl&cult to be 
found. This is true to a certain extent ; but although the 
coast in the immediate vicinity is low, yet a short distance 
back the land is high and marked, and cannot be mistaken. 
With proper charts, correct sketches of the coasts, and with 
a hghthouse on Point Arenas, every difficulty would be ob- 
viated. This is evident even to the unprofessional observer. 
The harbor is probably adequate to every purpose connected 
with the proposed canal. 



42 NICAEAGUA — NAKEATIYE. 

The town of San Juan consists (June, 1850) of fifty or 
sixty palm tliatclied houses, or rather huts, arranged with 
some degree of regularity, upon the south-western shore of 
the harbor. It is supported entirely by the trade carried on 
through it ; and its inhabitants are dependent upon the sup- 
plies brought down from the interior, or furnished from 
trading vessels, for the means of subsistence. There are no 
cultivated lands in the vicinity, and excepting the narrow 
space occupied by the town, and a small number of acres 
on the island opposite, where a few cattle find pasturage, the 
primitive forest is unbroken by clearings of any description. 
The ground upon which the town is built is sandy, and 
although elevated but a few feet above the water, is, never- 
theless, dry. The country all around it is low, and is a short 
distance back fi-om the shore really marshy, interspersed 
with numerous lagoons. After penetrating a number of 
miles into the interior, however, higher land is found, with a 
soil adapted for every purpose of cultivation. 

Although the climate of San Juan is warm and damp, it 
is exempt from the fevers and epidemics which prevail in 
most places similarly situated, upon the shores of the Grulf of 
Meiico and Caribbean Sea. I could not learn that any cases 
of the yellow fever, or vomito, have ever occurred here ; and 
when the cholera, in 1837, (five years after the period of its 
ravages in the United States,) devastated the interior, and 
almost depopulated the ports to the northward and south- 
ward, San Juan entirely escaped its visitations. It may safely 
be said that there are few ports, if any, under the tropics of 
equal salubrity. The nature of the soil, the fact that the 
malaria of the coast is constantly swept back by the north- 
east trades, and that good water may be obtained in abun- 
dance, at a depth of a few feet below the surface, no doubt 
contribute to this result. It is, however, a singular circum- 
stance, vouched for by the older residents of San Juan, that 
the island or opposite shore of the harbor, not more than half 



CLIMATE OF SAJST JUJLN — POPULATION. 43 

a mile distant, and wliich., from tlie greater depth of water 
immediately fronting it, and other circumstances, seems 
to be the best site for a town, is fatal to those who may 
attempt to occupy it. A settlement was commenced there a 
number of yeajs ago, but the inhabitants were decimated 
within the first two months ; after which the rest removed to 
the other shore. The same cause, it is said, led to the aban- 
donment of the military works which the Spaniards had 
erected there before the revolt of the colonies. The cause of 
this difference is not apparent, but no doubt as to the fact 
seems to exist among the inhabitants. Foreigners at San 
Juan, however, by observing ordinary and proper precau- 
tions, need not, I am convinced, form exceptions to the gen- 
eral good health of the native inhabitants. 

The temperature of San Juan varies a httle with the dif- 
ferent seasons of the year, but is generally pleasant, differing 
not much from that of New York in the month of July. 
The range of the thermometer is not, however, so great as it 
is with us during that month. During my stay in June, 1849, 
and upon my return in the same month, in 1850, the range 
was from 74° of Fahrenheit at sunrise, to 85° at the hottest 
hour of the day. In the evening there is usually a pleasant 
and invigorating sea-breeze. 

The population of the town does not exceed three hundred, 
having considerably diminished since the English usurjaation. 
Besides what may be called the native inhabitants, and who 
exhibit the same characteristics in language, habits, and cus- 
toms with the lower classes in the interior of the state, there 
are a few foreigners, and some Creoles of pure stock, who 
reside here as agents, or consignees of mercantile houses, 
and as commission dealers. There are also the English au- 
thorities, consisting chiefly of negroes from Jamaica. The 
inhabitants, therefore, exhibit every variety of race and com- 
plexion. "Whites, Indians, negroes, mestizos, and sambos, — 
black, brown, yellow, and fair, — all mingle together with the 



44 NIOAEAGUA — NAREATIVE. 

Utmost freedom, and in total disregard of tliose convention- 
alities wliicli are founded on caste. In what might be called 
tlie best families, if it were possible to institute comparisons 
on tlie wrong side of zero, it is no uncommon thing to find 
three and four shades of complexion, from which it may be 
inferred that the social relations are very lax. This is unfor- 
tunately the fact ; and the examples which have been set 
upon this coast in times past, by Jamaica traders, have not 
had the effect of improving morals. There is neither church 
nor school-house in San Juan, nor indeed in the whole of 
what the Enghsh facetiously call the "Mosquito Kingdom." 
Before the seizure, San Juan was a curacy, dependent upon 
the Diocess of Nicaragua, but subsequently to that event it 
was vacated, in consequence of the obstacles thrown in the 
way of its continuance by the Enghsh officials, whose high 
sense of Christian duty would not permit them to tolerate 
anything but the Enghsh Church, which is, I beheve, the 
established religion throughout the dominions of " His Mos- 
quito Majesty !" Occasionally a priest, in his black robes, is 
seen flitting about the town ; but unless it is desired to find 
out the residence of the prettiest of the nut-brown senoritas, 
it4s not always prudent to inquire too closely into his move- 
ments. 

The dwelhngs of the inhabitants, as already intimated, are 
of the rudest and most primitive description, and make no 
approach to what, in the United States, would be regarded 
as respectable out-houses. They are, in fact, mere thatched 
sheds, roughly boarded up and floored, or made of a kind of 
wicker work of canes, sometimes plastered over with mud. 
The faxniture, which seldom consists of more than a ham- 
mock, a high table, a few chairs, and a bed, is entirely in 
keeping with the edifices. Yet, mean and uninviting as these 
structures are, they answer a very good purpose in a chmate 
where anything beyond a roof to keep off the sun and the 
rain may almost be regarded as a superfluity. The heavy thatch 



HOUSES — INSECTS — NIGUAS. 45 

of palm leaves or long gi-ass is an effectual protection against 
these, and^thougli it jparnishes excellent quarters for scor- 
pions, small serpents, and other pleasant colonists, yet these 
soon cease to excite apprehension, and, with the mice and 
cockroaches, sink into common-places. The sting of the do- 
mestic scorpion, so far as I am able to learn of its effects from 
others, never having myself experienced it, is not much 
worse than that of a wasp or hornet, and seldom produces 
any serious result. The alacran del monte, scorpion of the 
forest, or wild scorpion, is more to be dreaded; its sting 
sometimes induces fever, causing the tongue to swell so as to 
render utterance di£S.cuIt, or impossible. This latter never 
inflicts its sting unless pressed upon, or accidentally dis- 
turbed by some part of the person. It is quite as common 
in San Juan as in any part of the country ; being brought 
there probably with the Brazil wood, the knots and cre- 
vices of which afford it an excellent lodgment. And, while 
upon insects, I may mention a kind of a flea, called m- 
gvM or chigoe by the Spaniards, and ^^ jigger''' by the West 
Indian English, which generally attacks the feet, working its 
way, without being felt, beneath the skin, and there depositing 
its eggs. A small sack speedily forms around these, which 
constantly increases in size, first creating an itching sensation, 
and afterwards, unless removed, becoming painful. When 
small, it may be extracted without diflS.culty, but when 
larger, the operation is delicate and often painfal ; for if the 
sack is broken, a bad" ulcer, extremely liable to inflammation, 
and sometimes affecting the entire foot and leg, is a probable 
result. The best sujgeon in these cases is an Indian boy, 
who always performs the operation skillfally, and con- 
siders a medio (sixpence) a capital fee for his services. He 
has a sharp eye for "las niguas," and wiU frequently detect 
them before they are seen or felt by the strangers in whose 
feet they are burrowing. It is well to submit one's pedal 
extremities to his criticism as often as once every three days. 



46 mCAEAGUA — ^NAKEATIVE. 

while sojourning in San Juan, wliere tliis insect is more com- 
mon tlian anywhere else in Central America. When to this 
digression on insects and reptiles, I have added that the har- 
bor is infested hj sharks, and that alligators are far from rare 
both there and in the lagunas near the town, the catalogue of 
things annoying and disagreeable to be encountered here is 
nearly complete. But after all, the inconvenience or danger 
from such sources is chiefly imaginary, and exists more in 
anticipation than in reality. 

From what has been said it will be seen that San Juan has 
no resources of its own, and derives its present importance 
solely from the trade which is carried on through it with the 
interior. A considerable part of the exports and imports of 
Nicaragua passes here. The exports are indigo, Brazil wood, 
hides, and bullion, and the imports manufactured goods of 
every description, suitable for general use. The indigo and 
bullion go, in great part, to England, by the British West 
Indian line of steamers, which touches here monthly, and 
which has already nearly monopolized the carrying of those 
articles of high value but small bulk, upon which it is de- 
sirable to realize quick returns. The Brazil wood and hides, 
on the other hand, pass chiefly to the United States and 
Jamaica. By far the greater proportion of the carrying 
trade is in the hands of Americans, conducted through native 
houses, and through travelling agents in the interior : and 
considerably more than two-thirds of the tonnage entering 
the port is American. An Italian vessel comes once or 
twice a-year, and a couple of French vessels occasionally, as 
also some nondescript coasters, bearing the New Granadian 
or Yenezuelan flags. A portion of the trade of Costa Eica, 
via the rivers San Juan and Serapiqui, is now carried on 
through this port. There are no means of ascertaining its 
value, nor that of the general commerce of San Juan, inas- 
much as no regular tables have been kept at the Custom 
House. Previous to the seizure of the port by the English, 



TRADE — EXPORTS AJSTD IMPORTS. 47 

in 1848, the duties collected liere by tlie Nicaraguan govern- 
ment amounted to about $100,000 per annum ; and as the 
rate of imposts was about 20 per cent., the value of tbe im- 
ports may be approximately calculated at nearly $500,000. 
Since tbe Englisb usurpation, tlie trade bas seriously dimin- 
ished, in consequence of the depression and uncertainty 
which it has created in the interior, and which have induced 
many of the native merchants to contract their business. 
The additional duties levied by the usurping authorities have 
also contributed to the same results. They have imposed an 
import and export duty of 2| per cent, ad valorem, and made 
other onerous restrictions on commerce. Under these, they 
have nevertheless lately farmed out the customs at* $10,000 
per annum, which, as this is apart from the cost of collection, 
implies a trade of at least $300,000.^ The actual trade of 
the port may now be roughly estimated at $400,000, not allow- 
ing for the increase which has already followed the general 
commercial activity induced by the California movement, nor 
for the direct influences of the partial opening of the Nica- 
ragua route of transit, and the consequent direction of public 
attention and individual enterprise to that portion of the 
Central American Isthmus. As the trade of Nicaragua, by 
way of this port mUst pass through the river San Juan, the 
Mcaraguan Customs Establishment has been fixed at the old 
Fort of San Carlos, at the head of the river, on the lake. 
The average rate of duty exacted under the JSTicaraguan 
tariff, is about 21 per cent, ad valorem,^ which, added to the 

^ Since the above was written, the collection of customs at San Juan, 
from motives of policy, has been suspended, but not permanently aban- 
doned, by the British Government. 

2 It should be mentioned, however, that although the ISTicaraguan tariff 
is nominally 21 per cent, ad valorem, yet as one half of the amount of 
duties may be paid in Grovernment vales, or notes, which range from ten 
to sixty per cent, in value, according to their class and date, it is practi- 
cally not more than 15 per cent. 



48 NIOAKAGUA — NAKRATIVE. 

Britisli impositions at San Juan, makes tlie total duty to be 
paid on articles passing into the interior about 24 per cent. 

Wlien tlie political questions connected witli Britisli 
aggressions in JSTicaragua sliall bave been satisfactorily and 
permanently adjusted, and tbe projected canal really com- 
menced, this port will become one of the first importance, if 
not the most important, on the • continent. Its prospective 
value can hardly be estimated ; for apart from its position in 
respect to the proposed work, it is the only Atlantic port of 
one of the finest countries under the tropics, possessing inex- 
haustible agricultural and mineral resources, which recent 
movements indicate with certainty are destined to a speedy 
development. 

As already observed, this is the only possible Atlantic 
terminus for the (probably) only possible ship-canal route 
across the continent. And this is to be regarded as the great 
and controlling fact which led to its seizure by the English, 
at the moment when it became certain that California would 
fall into the hands of 'the United States, and the question of 
an inter-oceanic communication became one of immediate 
and practical importance. The seizure, it is well known, 
was made under the shallow pretext of supporting the terri- 
torial pretensions of a tribe of savages, or mixed negroes and 
Indians, called Moscos, or Mosquitos, and in virtue of some 
equivocal relations which the pirates of Jamaica anciently 
maintained with them. "When, however, it is known that 
this was the principal port of entry of Mcaragua under the 
Spanish dominion ; that for more than three hundred years 
it was the avenue through which its trade was conducted ; 
that the river flowing past it was defended by massive and 
costly works, which, although in ruins, are yet imposing; 
that no Mosquito Indian ever resided here; that all its 
inhabitants were, and with the exception of a few foreign 
merchants and the Enghsh officials, still are Nicaraguans ; 
and that England herself recognized it as pertaining to 



THE BRITISH OCCUPATION. 49 

Nicaragua by blockading it as a part of lier territories ; and 
wlien to all this is added the fact, that the Mosquito Indians 
never, themselves, pretended to any territorial rights here or 
elsewhere, until induced to do so by British agents, the 
enormity of the seizure is rendered apparent. But as the 
facts connected mth these and similar encroachments will 
form the subject of a separate chapter, it is unnecessary to 
refer further to them here. Since the seizure of the port, 
and in ludicrous commentary on the assertion of the British 
Government, that its sole design in taking that step was the 
'^re-establishment of Mosquito rights and authority," its 
municipal and other regulations, not excepting its port 
charges and customs' rates, have been promulgated and fixed 
by an of&cer styling himself " Her Britannic Majesty *s Con- 
sul," or " Yice Consul ;" who has for his executive force a 
few Jamaica negroes, called, probably in irony, "police." 
He is, in fact, dictator of the place, and the inhabitants are 
subject without appeal to his will, for there are no written 
laws or fixed regulations of any kind. He assumes to dispose 
of lands, and gives titles under his consular seal ; nor does 
he, ever so remotely, appear to recognize the so-called 
Mosquito King. Indeed, the only evidence that this farcical 
character is held in remembrance at all is that a flag, said to 
be his, is occasionally hoisted in an open space in the centre 
of the town. The English flag, however, floats over what is 
called the Custom House, and is the only one for which any 
degree of respect is exacted. The new tariff, promulgated 
here in April, 1850, was signed "J. M. Daly, Collector," and 
did not purport to have been enacted by any superior 
authority. Indeed, the present situation of the town, over- 
awed as it constantly is by one or two British vessels, is 
anomalous in the extreme. If, as it is pretended, this port 
belongs to the supposititious Mosquito King, it is difficult to 
understand how a second party can exercise sovereignty 
over it; or upon what principles of international law the 



50 NICAEAaUA— NAERATIVE. 

consuls of one nation can assume municipal and general 
administrative authority in the ports of another. The simple 
fact is, that Great Britain, having secured possession of this 
important port, under a pretest which deceives nobodj, no 
longer cares to stultify herself by affecting to conform to that 
pretext. The thing is too absurd to be continued. 

The Eiver San JTuan reaches the ocean by several mouths. 
The divergence takes place about twenty miles from the sea. 
forming a low delta, penetrated by numerous canals, or, as 
they are called on the Lower Mississippi, hayous, and lagunas. 
The principal branch is the Colorado, which carries off at 
least two-thirds of the water of the river, and which empties 
into the ocean some ten or fifteen miles to the southward of 
the port. There is an almost impassable bar at the entrance, 
which would preclude the ascent of vessels, even if the depth 
of water above permitted of their proceeding after it was 
passed. The little steamer "Orus," nevertheless, after 
repeated trials, succeeded in passing it in August last. There 
is another small channel called the Taura^ which reaches the 
sea midway between the port and the mouth of the Colorado. 
The branch flowing into the harbor, the one through which 
the ascending and descending boats pass, carries off only 
about one-third of the water of the river. It has also a bar 
at the mouth, that is, at its point of debouchure into the 
harbor, upon which, at low tide, there are but three or four 
feet of water. This passed, the bed of the river is wide and 
studded with low islands; but excepting in the channel, 
which is narrow and crooked, the water is very shallow. It 
has been suggested that the Colorado branch might be 
dammed, and a greater column of water thrown into the 
other, or San Juan branch. But this suggestion can only be 
made by those who are wholly unacquainted with the sub- 
ject. Allowing it to be possible to build a dam, the stream 
would find a new channel to the sea ; or if it took the direc- 
tion of the harbor, fill it up, during the first rainy season, with 



NAVIGATION OF THE SAN JUAN. 51 

mud, or at once destroy tlie sandy barriers wHcli now form 
and protect it. As will be seen, when I come to speak of 
the practicabihty of a canal, the utmost that can be done 
with the river is to dredge out the channel to the Colorado, 
and remove some of the obstacles at the various rapids above, 
after which it might be navigated by small steamers. It cannot 
be made navigable for ships or vessels of any kind, except 
of the lightest draught, by any practicable system of improve- 
ments. 

The boats used upon the river for carrying freight and 
passengers are exaggerated canoes, called bongos. Some are 
hollowed fi'om a single tree, but the better varieties are built, 
with some degTee of skill, from the timber of the cedro^ a 
very Hght and durable kind of wood, which grows abundantly 
about the lakes. The largest of these carry fi^om eight to 
ten tons, and draw two or three feet of water when loaded. 
They are long, and rather deep and narrow, and have, when 
fully manned, from eight to twelve oarsmen, who drive the 
boat by means of long sweeps and setting-poles. Sails are 
seldom if ever used, except upon the lake. The masts are 
unshipped and left at the head of the river in descending, 
and resumed again in returning. These boats have a small 
space near the stern, called the '■'■ choipa^'' covered with a board 
roo:^ a thatch of pahn leaves, or with hides, which is assigned 
to the passengers. The rest of the boat is open, and the 
oarsmen, or, as they call themselves, marineros^ sailors, are 
without protection, and sleep upon their benches at night, 
covered only with their blankets, and with the gunwale of 
the boat for a common pillow. The captain, or ^atron^ is 
the steersman, and occupies a narrow deck at the stern, called 
the pineta^ upon which he also sleeps, coiling himself up in a 
knot, if the boat is small and the pineta narrow. The freight, 
if liable to damage from exposure, is covered with raw hides, 
which, between sun and rain, soon diffiise an odor very un- 
like the perfames which are said to load the breezes of Arabia 






52 NICARAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 

f 

the Blest. The "usual freight from San Juan to Granada, 
a distance of one hundred and sixty or one hundred and 
seventy miles, is from thirty to fifty cents per cwt. ; if the 
articles are bulky, it is more. The boatmen are paid from 
seven to eight dollars the trip, down from Grranada and back, 
which usually occupies from twenty to thirty days, although 
with proper management it might be made in less time. 
Time, however, in these regions is not regarded as of much 
importance, and everything is done very leisurely. It is 
only in active communities that its value is considered. 

Columbus coasted along the entire eastern shore of Central 
America, from Cape Honduras to Nombre de Dios, or Chagres, 
in 1502, and was probably the first discoverer of the Port of 
San Juan. In 1529, Captain Diego Machuca, residing in 
the city of Grranada, on Lake Nicaragua, undertook the 
exploration of that lake, discovered its outlet, passed down 
the San Juan to the port at its mouth, and sailed thence to 
Nombre de Dios. The principal rapids in the stream still bears 
his name. We are informed by the historian Gronzalo Fer- 
nandez de Oviedo y Yaldez, who was in Nicaragua in 1529, 
and was personally acquainted with Machuca, that the latter 
projected a colony at the mouth of the river, but was inter- 
rupted in his design by Eobles, commandant at Nombre de 
Dios, who contemplated the same enterprise. At how early 
a date the Spanish made establishments at San Juan, is not 
known ; but it is a historical fact, that early in the seventeenth 
century a fort existed at San Carlos, which was captured by 
the English in 1665, but recovered by De Mencos and De 
Caldas, officers of Spain in the then Kingdom of Gruatemala. 
[Juarros' History of the Kingdom of Ouatemala, Baihfs Trans.^ 
p. 67.) In consequence of this event, a royal decree was 
issued, commanding that the entrance of the river should be 
fortified ; which order was carried into effect by Don Fer- 
nando de Bscobeda, who examined the port and river, and 
built a fort in obedience to his instructions. It is also a his- 



HISTORICAL NOTICES, 53 

•i 
torical fact, tliat at the period of the rebuilding of the Fort of 
San Juan, on the river above, about 1727, a garrison was 
maintained here. At that time not less than twelve military 
stations existed on the river ; the first was at San Carlos, at 
the head of the stream ; the second at the mouth of the Eio 
Savalos ; the third, a short distance from the mouth of the Eio 
Poco Sol ; the fourth, the Castle of San Juan ; the fifth, the 
Island of Bartola ; sixth, a high bank below the Eapids de 
los Yalos, called ^^ Diamante;" seventh, at the Eapids of 
Machuca ; eighth, on an island at the mouth of the Eiver 
San Carlos ; ninth, at the mouth of the Eio San Francisco ; 
tenth, at the mouth of the Serapiqui ; eleventh, at the point 
called "Conception," opposite an island of the same name; 
and twelfth, at the Port of San Juan itself, with an inter- 
mediate temporary station called "Eosario." 

The comm.erce of Nicaragua with Europe and the West 
Indies was always carried on through this port; and we 
have records of as early a date as 1665, of vessels clearing 
for the ports of Spain from the city of Granada. San Juan 
was made a port of entry by royal order of the King of 
Spain, dated February 26, 1796. By a royal order of the 
27th of March following, regulations were made for promoting 
the settlement of the country in the neighborhood of that 
port, among which was one authorizing the introduction, in 
the ports of Spain, of dye and other woods cut there, or of 
coffee grown there, free of duty. From this period an aug- 
mented military force was kept up at San Juan, and in 1821 
additional defences were erected for their protection, as may 
be seen by the order of the Captain-General of Guatemala, of 
the date of May 2, 1821. Upon the declaration of indepen- 
dence, the royal troops were expelled by the patriots of 
Nicaragua, by whom the port was indisputably occupied 
until the British seizure in January, 1848. 



CHAPTBE III. 

THE JIAGNATES OF SAN JUAN — CAPTAIN SAMUEL SHEPHERD — ROYAL GRANTS — 
VEXATIOUS DELAYS — IMPOSING DEPARTURE — ENTRANCE OF THE RIVER SAN 
JUAN — "peeling" of THE MARHSTEROS — CHARACTER OF THE STREAM — THE 
JUANILLO — AN IMMEMORIAL STOPPING-PLACE — BONGOS, AND THEIR EQUIPMENTS 
AND STORES — MEALS — ESPRIT DE CORPS AMONG THE BOATMEN — THE " OEA- 
CIOn" — QUEER CAPRICES — MEDIO — OUR ACCOMMODATIONS — A SPECIMEN NIGHT 
ON THE RIVER — ^MORNING SCENES AND IMPRESSIONS — BONGO LIFE — THE COLO- 
RADO MOUTH — CHANGE OF SCENERY — THE IGUANA — ^A SOLITARY ESTABLISH- 
MENT TROPICAL EASE — THE EIO SERAPIQUI — FIGHT BETWEEN THE NIOARA- 

GUANS AND THE ENGLISH — " A FAMOUS VICTORY" THE RIO SAN FRANCISCO — 

REMOLINO GRANDE — PICTURESQUE RIVER VIEWS — THE HILLS AND PASS OF SAN 
CARLOS — THUNDER STORMS — THE MACHUCA RAPIDS — ^MELCHORA INDIANS — 
RAPIDS OF MICO AND LOS VALOS — RAPIDS OF THE CASTILLO — ISLAND OF BAE- 
TOLA — CAPTURE BY LORD NELSON — THE " CASTILLO VIE JO," OR OLD CASTLE OP 
SAN JUAN — "a DIOS CALIFORNIA!" — ^ASCEND TO THE RUINS — STRONG 
WORKS — CAPTURE OF THE FORT BY THE ENGLISH IN 1780 — FAILURE OF THE 
EXPEDITION AGAINST NICARAGUA ; A SCRAP OF HISTORY — PASSAGE OP THE 
RAPIDS — DIFFERENT ASPECT OF THE RIVER — A BLACK EAGLE — NINETY MILES 
IN SIX DAYS — THE FORT OF SAN CARLOS — GREAT LAKE OF NICARAGUA — 
LAND AT SAN CARLOS — THE COMMANDANTE — HEARTY WELCOME — ^NOVEL SCENES 

— ^ANCIENT DEFENCES — ^VIEW FROM THE FORT THE RIO FRIO — THE GUATOSOS 

INDIANS — A PARADISE FOR ALLIGATORS, AND SOME HAPPY INSTITUTIONS OF 
THEIRS. 

Most small commiinities have in tlieir midst one or two 
resident notabilities, wlio are regarded something in the light 
of oracles, and to whom general deference is acceded. San 
Juan is not an exception ; and Captain Samuel Shepherd is 
at once, per se, a personage so characteristic and so associated 
and identified with the place, that no description of San 
Juan would be complete in which he failed to be a promi- 



56 ' NICARAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 

nent feature. His residence is tlie most pretentious edifice 
in San Jnan ; it is, in fact, tlie architectural wonder of . tlie 
place, inasmucli as it is not only a framed building, but lias 
a shingled roof and glazed windows. It was built by Cap- 
tain Shepherd, in his more prosperous days, when he was the 
principal trader on the coast from Boca del Toro to Yucatan, 
and before age had crippled his energies, and reverses dissi- 
pated his fortune. He is now old and nearly blind, but hale, 
cheerful, intelligent, and communicative, and capable of 
giving more information relative to the coast than any man 
living. He seldom leaves his hammock, which is swung in 
the principal room of his house, and in which he receives all 
his visitors. We called upon him, on the second day after 
our arrival, and were received with every demonstration of 
respect. The captain was never more eloquent, and although 
he had always been classed as an Englishman, yet he said 
he was born in the United States, and meant to claim its 
protection as a citizen. He had been appointed " Governor 
of the Port," or some such nominal and trumpery ofl&ce, by 
the British Consul, by way of conciliation, but he was not to 
be taken in so easily ; and as for the orders which had been 
promulgated in his name, concerning the pigs and chickens, 
he protested it was altogether the consul's doings ; he had 
shut up neither the one nor the other, and regarded these 
animals quite as good citizens as the rest ; the consul might 
shoot any of them, (pigs or citizens,) if he dared. And as 
for the pretended English protectorate, and the authority 
assumed under it, the one was a fraud and the other an im- 
position; for whatever title the Mosquito Indians ever 
possessed, had been formally transferred and secured to him. 
And the captain here produced, from a very closely locked 
and substantial case, a variety of parchment grants and con- 
veyances, bearing the " his -f mark" of " Eobert Charles 
Frederick," father of the little Sambo boy now wearing the 
Mosquitian purple, in which it was duly set forth and attested 



CAPTAIN SHEPHERD. 57 

that "upon the 24th of January, 1839, in consideration of 
the true and laudable services rendered to us by Samuel 
Shepherd, etc., we, Eobert Charles Frederick, King of the 
Mosquito nation, of our special grace, and of our certain 
knowledge and free motion, have given and granted, and by 
these presents, sealed with our seal, do give and grant unto 
the said Samuel Shepherd, etc., all that tract of land lying 
between Blewfields River on the north, and San Juan River 
on the south," etc., etc., in the most approved form, and with 
royal prolixity, all of which is duly witnessed, together with 
the peaceable transfer and possession of the territory in ques- 
tion, approved by General Slam, Admiral Rodney, Lord Nel- 
son, and other equally distinguished personages,^ comprising 
the august council of the breechless but imperial "Robert 
Charles Frederick." Several other similar and equally 
formal documents were produced, in which the various 
Mosquito potentates had transferred to Mr. Shepherd and his 
associates about two-thirds of their pretended kingdom. 
When, in 1841, the English government sent its agents here 
to secure the country as a dependency on the British Empire, 
their first act was to procure the revocation of these grants, 
by the young Sambo, " Greorge "William Clarence," which 
was accordingly done ; the act of revocation setting forth, in 
a most unfilial way, that "his late majesty was not in his 
right mind when he. made them," that is, was drunh! But 
Captain Shepherd protests that the revocation was procured 

1 Like most savages, the Mosquito Indians are exceedingly vain, not 
less of names than apparel. It is a common thing to see a black fellow, 
without hat, shirt, or breeches, strutting through the little Indian tovsns 
on the coast, in a buttonless military jacket, purchased from a Jew's cast- 
oflf clothing shop in Kingston, and given to him by some Jamaica trader 
in exchange for turtle shells. In nine cases out of ten the wearer proclaims 
his name to be Lord Wellington, General Wolfe, or Lord IsTelson, or some 
other equally distinguished name, which he has heard the traders mention. 
The lowest rank thus assumed is that of General. 



58 NIGAHAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 

tlirough the influence of Jamaica rum, tliat his titles are in 
no degree impaired by it, and that the " his + mark" of one 
savage is as good as that of another. He regards the British 
occupation, therefore, as a direct invasion of his rights and 
sovereignty, and insists that if the port does not belong to 
Mcaragua, it certainly does to him ; a sequitur which we at 
once admitted, much to the captain's satisfaction, and to his 
admiration of American justice, discrimination, and judg- 
ment. 

Once off from his hobby, the old sailor was more interest- 
ing, if less amusing, and talked of matters in general in a 
manner highly original. His account of the relations which 
existed between the mixed brood of Indians and Negroes on 
the coasts, and the Jamaica traders, was given with a direct- 
ness somewhat starthng to persons not yet emancipated from 
the conventional rigors of the United States, but which con- 
stituted the best evidence of its truth. To say that these 
relations were exceedingly free and easy, is hardly explicit 
enough, as will be admitted when it is known that the visit 
of the traders was looked forward to as a kind of festival, 
when all ages and sexes abandoned themselves to general 
drunkenness and indiscriminate licentiousness. Every old 
trader had a number of children at every landing-place or 
settlement on the coast ; and on the occasion of each visit, 
he impiously baptized all those which he conceived might 
be his own. This indiscriminate intercourse, it can readily 
be imagined, has resulted in a complete demoralization of the 
natives, and has been attended by physical consequences 
quite as deplorable as those which have followed the inter- 
course of Europeans with some of the Pacific Islands. These 
relations were established by the pirates, when they thronged 
the Spanish main, from Jamaica as a centre, and they are 
now referred to, by the British government, as an evidence 
of ancient alHance, and in support of an assumed protector- 
ate ! It was not without a feehng of sympathy for the almost 



OUR BONGO ; " LA GRANADINA." 59 

sightless old captain, tliat we left liim swinging in his ham- 
mock, where he is doubtless yet to be found, clinging hope- 
fallj to his parchment titles. 

"We remained six days at San Juan, at the end of which 
time, having witnessed a promiscuoiis affair called a fandango, 
not at all spirituahzed by the "West Indian variations on the 
none-too-delicate original, and exhausted the limited stock of 
amusements which the place affords, besides having become 
completely wearied with the low, monotonous scenery, and 
not a little disgusted because of the absence of those tropical 
luxuries of which we had formed so high anticipations, we 
were anxious for a change. But few boats arrived from the 
interior, in consequence of an attempted revolution, and these 
brought accounts of the state of affairs, which we afterwards 
found were much exaggerated, but which made us especially 
anxious to proceed on our journey. When, therefore, our 
baggage and stores had been fished up from the hold of the 
Frances, and piled in dire confusion in the middle of our 
partitionless house, no time was lost in preparing for our 
departure. Through the assistance of my colored friend, we 
had engaged one of the largest bongos then in port for our 
exclusive accommodation, paying dearly for the stipulation 
that no freight beyond our own should be taken, — an unne- 
cessary precaution, by the way, of which our colored friend 
neglected to inform us, for the troubles in the interior pre-^ 
vented the merchants from shipping goods in that direction, 
and had it not been for our opportune arrival, the boat must 
have gone empty. This bongo bore the name of "La Gra- 
nadina," and looked not wholly uncomfortable as she lay at 
her moorings, just off the shore. She had a crew of ten 
stalwart oarsmen, and was particularly commended on account 
of her patron^ Pedro, one of the patriarchs of the river, who, 
amongst his other accompHshments, spoke a little English, of 
which, for a wonder, he was not at all vain. As soon as the 
arrangement was completed, our marineros made court to us 



60 NICAEAGUA — NAERATIYE. 

most assiduously, fairly hustling eacli otlier for tlie honor 
(worth a medio) of carrying the members of our party hack- 
wards and forth from "La Grrenadina." One of the number,, 
a shght but well-proportioned Mestizo, was a subject for the 



OUR BONGO — "la GRANADINA. 



Washingtonians, and won the soubriquet of " Medio," from 
his frequent applications for sixpence. On these occasions 
he would gravely take off his hat, and throwing himself in a 
theatrical attitude, bring his closed left hand with Forrestian 
tbrce on his naked breast, exclaiming, " Soy un honibre hueno /" 
I am a good man ! It was worth the money to witness the 
relapse from dignity to servility when the coin touched his 
palm. Medio little thought how strict a parallel he afforded 
to men in other countries, and loftier spheres of action. 
Medio's price was sixpence, although he had served as ser- 
geant in the army, and distinguished himself among the 
" veteranos." 

The day of our departure had been fixed for the 12th, at 
four in the morning, and Pedro had promised faithfully to 
have all things in readiness. With the anticipation of an 
early start, we bade all our friends good-bye over night, and 
retired early, declining any provision for breakfast on shore, 
lest we might cause delays in the morning. Morning came, 
but not a sailor was to be seen near the " La Granadina," 
except the one who had kept watch over night ; the rest, he 
said, would be there "mwyprow-fo," very soon; whereupon 
he dodged beneath the c^opa, and composed himself for 
another nap. We waited an hour on the shore ; meantime 



VEXATIOUS DELAYS. 61 

the sun came up, door after door was unbarred, and tlie 
people came streaming down to tlie water to perform their 
morning ablutions, evidently greatly puzzled to account for 
our presence there. Their salutations seemed to conceal a 
vast deal of irony, and I fear were not returned with the 
utmost amiability. At eight o'clock, after firmly resolving 
to hold Pedro to a strict accountability for his delinquency, 
we returned in high indignation to our old quarters, and 
despatched orders for breakfast. To our infinite surprise, 
Monsieur S. had already prepared it. He received us with a 
smile, and when the meal was finished, coolly asked our 
preferences for dinner ! This was rather too severe an en- 
forcement of our first lesson in native delays, and led to an 
explanation, in the course of which Monsieur told us that he 
had long since found out the absurdity of attempting to ad- 
vise Americans in such matters ; and ended with the assur- 
ance that if we got off by the middle of the afternoon we 
might regard ourselves as particularly fortunate. "We never- 
theless returned to the shore, and found part of the crew had 
assembled, and were collecting wood and arranging their 
kettles preparatory to making breakfast. Never was any- 
thing performed more deliberately ; and the meal itself was dis- 
posed of with equal deliberation. It was nearly eleven when 
the kettles were again placed in the boat, and quite twelve 
when Pedro made his appearance. Fortunately for his sable 
skin, our impatience had taken the chronic form of dogged 
endurance, and we sat amongst boxes, trunks, and guns, silent 
and grim, but cherishing the determination to make ourselves 
even with the vagabonds before we got through with them. 
Monsieur S. proved to be right ; and it was late in the after- 
noon before the last straggler was got in, and the signal was 
given for starting. We severally mounted on the naked 
shoulders of the men, and were deposited on the pineta, a 
novel mode of embarkation with which we afterwards became 
familiar. The sailors took their places, and Pedro, with a 



62 NICARAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 

great conch sliell in one hand, gravely stationed himself at 
the tiller. The sweeps were raised, and every eye was fixed 
on the Patron, who glanced over the crew, as much as to ask 
" all ready?" and then, raising the shell to his hps, gave a 
long, unearthly blast. The sweeps fell simultaneously into 
the water, the men uttered a hoo-pah, the crowd on the beach 
shouted, the women waved their rebozos, while Ben unfurled 
the American flag at the bow. La Grranadina seemed to fly 
through the water, and our friend, the Consul Greneral, pro- 
truded his head ftom his hospitable garret, and waved his 
adieus as we swept by. The crew of the little Francis also 
hurrahed from her shrouds, and altogether, as Pedro, drop- 
ping his conch, proudly observed, it was a demonstration 
worthy of the occasion. He evidently thought it would tell 
well in the United States ! 

We were too glad to get off, to care much for anything 
else ; nor did we experience many regrets when we took our 
last look at the long, low line of huts, and found ourselves 
shut in by the green banks of the river. Fairly in the 
stream, and out of sight of the town, the oars were drawn 
aboard, and every marinero stripped himself of his scant}^ 
clothing, which was carefully wrapped up, and deposited in 
a protected place, nor put on again until we reached the head 
of the river. This somewhat startling ceremony over, each man 
lighted a segar and resumed his oar ; but the strokes were 
now leisurely made, and the severe realities of the voyage 
commenced. For some miles the banks of the river, as also 
the numerous islands which studded it, were low, covered with 
canes, and with a species of tall grass called gamalote. In 
places the stream was compressed between the islands, with 
a rapid current; while elsewhere it spread out in broad, 
glassy reaches, of great apparent depth, but shallow every- 
where except in the channel ; which, as the bed of the river 
is sand, is narrow and tortuous, and constantly shifting. A 
few miles above the harbor, we came to where the Juanillo, 



THE BIVER JUANILLO. 63 

"Little John," rejoins tlie river, from wliicli it diverges some 
twenty-five miles above the mouth. After winding through 
the low grounds back of San Juan, spreading out into lagu- 
nas, and at one place into a considerable lake, it returns to 
the main stream, purple with vegetable infusions. The 
Indians sometimes penetrate this channel in canoes, for the 
purpose of shooting the wild fowl which people its marshy, 
pestilent borders, and of killing the manitus, which here finds 
a congenial sohtude. 

During the rainy season the whole marshy region through 
which the Juanillo flows is covered with water, as is also 
nearly the entire delta of the river, which, in the ordinary 
stages, is nowhere elevated more than a few feet above the 
river. It was now the commencement of the rains in the 
interior ; the stream was rising, and, as our freight was cpm- 
paratively light, we were enabled to proceed without much 
difficulty. "We nevertheless sometimes ran aground, on 
which occasions our men leaped overboard, and putting their 
shoulders under the boat, lifted it off. The bongos are some- 
times obliged, both in ascending and descending, to take out 
part of their fi:eight, and depositing the remainder beyond the 
shallower sections of the river, return again for it. This, 
Jiowever, occurs only during the dry season, when the river 
has probably not more than half the volume which it pos- 
sesses during the period of the rains. 

In the exhilaration of our departure we had quite forgotten 
the disappointment of the morning, and had abandoned our- 
selves to the enjoyment of the novelty alike of our circum- 
stances and the scenery. But our day's annoyances were not 
complete. After paddling for perhaps five miles, we came 
to where the banks had more firmness, and were a trifle 
higher than below, and where the canes and long grass gave 
way to a rank growth of palms ; their broad leaves forming a 
roof impenetrable to the sun. Here, at a place where the 
undergrowth had been removed, and the trees rose like 



64 NICAEAGUA — JSTAEEATIVE. 

gotMe columns, witli evergreen arch.es, covering cool, dark 
vistas, our boat was quietly thrust in shore, and we were 
astonished with preparations for another meal. "We remon- 
strated, but it was of no use ; all the bongos had stopped 
here from time immemorial, and Pedro told us, in broken 
English, that the demonio could not get the sailors by. And 
Pedro himself sat deliberately down on the jpineta^ and turn- 
ing up his toes, began a grand hunt for niguas. Some of the 
men followed the example of the Patron, others lifted out the 
kettles, and still others built a fire. 

Every bongo, on leaving the interior, takes on board a 
large number of plantains, not yet fally ripe, and which are 
therefore called verdes. These are detached from the stalk, 
" corded up" in the bow of the boat, and constitute the prin- 
cipal reliance of the men. A few, that are nearly or quite 
ripe, called maduras^ are also taken on board for immediate 
use. Besides these, there is a box of jerked beef, or what 
tbe Americans ironically call yard heef^^ — ^i. e. beef cut in long 
strips and dried in the sun. Some bottles of manteca (lard), 
or a quantity of kidney fat and a bag of rice are added, and 
then the substantial supplies for the voyage are complete. 
The cookery is very simple. Stakes are driven in the ground 
to support the kettle, in which is first put a portion of fat^ 
next a layer of platanos verdes from which the skin bas been 
stripped, then a layer of beef cut in small pieces, a calabash 
of rice, some salt, and so on until the kettle is filled. Water 
is poured over all, and the whole is thoroughly boiled. 
While this is going on, the men amuse themselves with 
roasting bits of meat on the ends of pointed sticks. Nothing 
can be wilder or more picturesque than a dozen naked, 
swarthy figures crouched around the fire, in the deep sha- 
dows of the forest, protecting their faces from the heat with 
their hands, and keeping up the while a* most vociferous dis- 
cussion, generally about the merits of this or that bongo, or 
upon some other subject of equal interest to themselves. 



LOS MARINEEOS. 65 

When tlie mess in the kettle is cooked, each one fills his 
calabash, and with his fingers or a cocoa-nut spoon disposes 
of it at his leisure. As the "yard beef" has always a most 
suspicious odor, I could bring myself to taste the con- 
tents of the kettle but once. I must do the marineros the 
justice to say that it was not an unsavory dish. It is always 
arranged to have half a kettle full of the compound over, to 
which the men help themselves at their pleasure. 

Besides these common stores, every sailor has a private 
stock, consisting, generally, of a bag of tiste, (parched corn, 
ground with cacao and sugar,) which is mixed with water, 
making a nourishing and most delicious beverage. He has 
also a few cakes of chancaca, or, as he calls it, dulce, i. e., un- 
refined sugar, which he eats in its raw state. A few stalks 
of sugar-cane are almost always to be found stowed away 
amongst the freight, upon which the men entertain them- 
selves after the anchor is cast for the night. In fact, when 
they are not sleeping or at the oars, they are eating or smok- 
ing, and are as loquacious as a flock of parrots. A stranger 
would suppose they were constantly on the verge of a gen- 
eral quarrel. Yet, like the arrieros of Mexico, these men 
are, with few exceptions, good-tempered, honest, and trust- 
worthy, and have an esprit de corps amongst them which is 
carefully kept up. They are governed by certain conven- 
tional rules, which none dare violate ; and their quarrels are 
generally referred to the decision of the older and more in- 
fluential individuals of their own number. 

It was nearly sunset when the meal was finished ; the boat 
was pushed out in the stream, and we were once more on our 
way. We had now come to that part of the river where the 
long, broad reaches commence, and were moving slowly and 
almost noiselessly along in the shadow of the trees, on the 
tops of which the sunlight was shining, when suddenly, as if 
by a simultaneous impulse, the sweeps were raised, and each 
sailor reverently took off his hat, — ^the hour of the oradon 

5 



66 NICAEAGUA — ^NAERATIVE. 

had come. Tlie bowman commenced the evening chaurit, 
the chorus of which was taken up by the entire crew, with a 
precision, in respect to cadence and time, which could only- 
result from long practice. There was certainly something 
impressive in the apparent devotion of these rude men, apart 
from the effect of the melody itself, caught up as it was by 
the echoes, and prolonged in the forest solitudes. Yet the 
impression was destroyed by one of those freaks in which the 
natives of this country seem to delight, and which constantly 
outrage the traveller's sense of propriety. N"o sooner was 
the chaunt concluded, than all hands gave a shout, and bend- 
ing to the sweeps, pulled like madmen for a few minutes, and 
then as suddenly stopped again, and broke out in a paroxysm 
of laughter; 

"We afterwards frequently witnessed the same proceeding, 
but could never discover the reason for it, probably because 
there was no reason in the case. We came, in the end, to 
look upon it as a simple ebullition of animal feeling. The 
fit of laughter over, the men pulled steadily for a couple of 
hours, keeping time to a kind of round which was certainly 
not without a degree of melody, but which was chiefly 
acceptable because it required a full and rapid swing of the 
sweeps, and was therefore favorable to speed. We always 
applauded it, and when impatient of our slow progress, ex- 
ercised our ingenuity to introduce it as frequently as possible 
without creating suspicion of the object. Our friend " Medio," 
however, sharper than the rest, detected us; but he was 
adroit enough to turn his wit to account, by exacting extra 
allowances of our ardiente as the reward of his silence. 

It was long after dark when we came to anchor in the 
midst of the stream, at a point above the gamalote islands, 
which are always densely populated- with mosquitoes. For 
this reason the bongos never stop over night near them, if it 
can be ayoided. The sailors have also a fancy, whether well- 
founded or otherwise I am unprepared to say, that noise will 



BONGO LIFE. 67 

attract these annoying visitors. The sweeps are therefore 
pulled on board, and the anchor run out as silently as possi- 
ble, and all conversation thereafter is carried on in a sup- 
pressed voice. 

One night on the river is much like all others, and our 
first may be taken as an " average" example of our noctur- 
nal experiences. The trunks of the party had been packed 
beneath the chopa^ with principal reference to a level surface. 
Upon these were spread ponchos, blankets, and whatever 
might contribute to reheve the unyielding sub-stratum, while 
the carpet bags, and gutta-percha pouches were reserved for 
pUlows. A stout cord was fastened close under the roof, 
over which were hung a change of linen, and a few necessary 
articles of dress. Here too were slung, in easy reach, and 
with special regard to convenience in case of necessity, our 
guns, pistols, and bowie knives, with the requisite ammuni- 
tion. A few books and materials for drawing were be- 
stowed on a shelf beneath the pineta, where also Ben had 
established the commissariat department, — one which, above 
all others, ia not to be neglected in ascending the San Juan. It 
was barely possible to sit erect beneath the chopa; and ex- 
cepting the narrow space between it and the first bench, 
there was no room to stand, unless we encroached upon the 
Patron's pineta, — ^which, it may be 'mentioned, we were not 
scrupulous in doing. Here, notwithstanding the heat of the 
sun, I passed most of the day, to the thorough embrowning 
of every exposed part of the person. The thatched chopa, a 
paradise for insects, was covered with raw hides, and two 
immense ones were fixed at either end. When it rained, 
these were let down, converting the interior into a kind of 
oven, intolerably close and hot. : After one or two trials, we 
preferred to take the risk of getting wet to that of being 
suffocated by the heat, and would not allow them to be low- 
ered. In fact, after repeated wettings, their stench became 
unendurable, and we had them removed entirely, much to 



68 NICARAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 

the astonisliment of Pedro, wlio really seemed to relish, tlie 
sraell of putrescent Mdes ! In the first class bongos, which 
liave board roofs, with close joints, this annoyance is obvi- 
ated. In these the traveller also finds a refuge on the top of 
the chopa, from the discomforts of the interior. 

We sat up late, watching the men, who gathered in a group 
near the bow of the boat, each with a cigar in his mouth, a 
handkerchief bound round his head, and a blanket thrown 
over his shoulders. There they sat for hours, keeping up 
conversation in a low tone, and with, every appearance of 
great earnestness. Finally, however, they broke off one by 
one, and stretched themselves each, on his own hard bench. 
Ben, too, wh.o had been with Fremont across the continent, 
had travelled all over Mexico, and was consequently a phi- 
losopher after his way, took to the only vacnnt bench, while 
Pedro coiled himself in a heap on the pineta. The night 
was threatening, no stars were visible, and we could only 
discern, the dark water sweeping past us, by th.e light of the 
" fire-fly lamps." An alligator occasionally plunged heavily 
in the stream, but excepting the water rippling under the 
bow, all else was silent. 

It was past midnight when the drops of an approaching 
shower warned us to seek the shelter of the chopa. "We 
found our quarters sufQ.ciently narrow, and the trunks, spite 
of ponchos and blankets, portentously hard. Yet, thanks 
to former experiences, I was soon asleep, and slumbered 
soundly until morning. A few straggling mosquitos, how- 
ever, had disturbed my companions, who were up long 
before me, unrefreshed and complaining. Although it was 
hardly sunrise, we had been moving for two or three hours, 
and were past the Tauro mouth of the San Juan, and 
approaching the point of divergence of the Colorado. And 
although the banks were httle if any higher than before, yet 
the feathery palms, of which I have spoken, were interspersed 
with other varieties of trees, some of which were of large 



MOENING ON THE RIVEE. 69 

size, and draped all over with, vines, that Imng in rich 
festdons over the water. Birds of varied plumage glanced 
in and out of the forest, and cranes and other water-fowl 
paced soberly along the sand bars, or flew lazily up the 
stream as we approached. Occasionally a pair of green 
macaws, — ^the macaw is never seen except in couples, — 
fluttered slowly over our heads, almost deafening us with 
their discordant notes. The air was cool and fresh, remind- 
ing me of a morning in June at home, and I experienced a 
degree of exhilaration in performing my morning ablutions 
which completely put to flight all my previously conceived 
notions of tropical lassitude. Mists lurked here and there 
in the bends of the river, and in shadowy nooks, but they 
gradually dispersed, and at eight o'clock, when the boat was 
moored under the shadow of a gigantic tree, the sun shone 
brilliantly upon a scene as luxuriant as the imagination can 
portray. Ben boiled his coffee at the sailors' fire, and we 
made our first breakfast on the river with a degree of satis- 
fection which, even at this distance of time, it is pleasant to 
recall. 

At ten o'clock we were once more in motion, and shortly 
after came to the Colorado. At the point of junction, 
fourteen miles above the port, there is a broad reach, and 
th.e river at once assumes a more majestic character. As I 
have already said, the Colorado carries off fully two-thirds 
of the water of the river, so that no adequate idea of its size 
and beauty can be formed until the traveller has reached the 
main body of the stream. Here the banks become higher ; 
the low islands disappear ; and the river is walled in by a 
dense forest. To avoid the strength of the current, the boat 
was kept close along the shore, and the long vines, loaded 
with gay and fragrant flowers, trailed over the cho'pa as it 
passed beneath them. Brilliantly-colored birds sparkled in 
the cool, green coverts, and, for the first time, we saw the 
ugly iguanas looking curiously down upon us from the pro- 



70 NICAEAGTJA — ^NAERATIVE. 

jecting limbs of tlie trees. They fully answered to Ben's 
description of * very ngly snakes, wMcIl ISTature, after form- 
ing tlie liead and tail, had neglected, until it was too late, to 
roll into shape, giving them afterwards four legs, by way of 
compensation for her oversight. They abound in Central 
America, and are to be met with in almost every locality, 
but are particularly abundant on the San Juan, where they 
attain to great size. 'They are of a variety of colors, and 
the different species (of which there appear to be several,) 
are distinguished by other peculiarities. Hundreds of small 
size and bright-green color might be seen clinging to every 
little branch, or sunning themselves on every old trunk 
which projected into the stream. When disturbed, they 
would dash for the shore with great swiftness, literally walk- 
ing the water. "We shot many in our passage, but recovered 
few, as they are very tenacious of life, and often cling to the 
trees after they are killed. They are esteemed delicious 
food, and are eagerly sought by the marineros. I could 
never bring myself to taste them, although the flesh, after 
being cooked, looked sufficiently delicate and inviting. I 
do not know how close an anatomical affinity they sustain 
to the alligator, but their jaws and teeth are much the same, 
in miniature, and like the alligator they take to the water if 
closely pressed, when there is no hole or tree in which to find 
refuge. Their general ugliness is unnecessarily heightened 
by a kind of crest or integument which runs along the back, 
from the root of the neck to the tail, and which is elevated 
when the. animal is frightened or enraged. I never overcame 
my aversion to these reptiles, although I afterwards brought 
myself to tolerate a colony of them, which had taken up 
their quarters in the adobe walls of my court-yard in Leon. 

During the day we passed an island near the place of 
divergence of the Juanillo, upon which an adventurous Nica^ 
raguan from the interior had established a plantain-walk. 
His house was nothing more than a shed, and under it was 



BATTLE OF SEEAPIQUI. 71 

strung a couple of hammocks, in whicii the master and his 
spouse swung slowly to and fro, complete im'^ersonations of 
idleness and ease. A couple of naked children were rolling 
in the sand of the shore, upon which was drawn up a grace- 
ful canoe, the whole constituting a picture of primitive sim- 
plicity, to be found nowhere except under the tropics. Our 
men shouted, and were answered by a couple of wolfish- 
looking dogs, while the children scampered for the hut in 
apparent alarm, but neither father nor mother took the 
trouble to rise. Why should they? 

That night we came to anchor a few miles below the mouth 
of the Serapiqui, and next morning passed the spot where the 
Kicaraguan boatmen had made their stand against the English, 
after the capture of San Juan. The position was well chosen, 
at l^he head of a long reach, where the river takes a sudden 
bend, and where the hills, for the first time, come down to the 
water. Here they had cleared off the trees, and with their 
trunks had constructed a hasty breastwork, fronting the river. 
This rude fortification was manned by about one hundred and 
twenty men, some armed with old fowling-pieces, but others 
having no weapons except their machetes. They had also 
one or two rusty pieces of artillery, which none of them 
knew how to use, and with these preparations they awaited 
the ascent of the English. The latter, made up of three 
hundred picked men, from the vessels-of-war "Alarm" and 
"Vixen," in launches carrying guns at their bows, reached 
this place on the 12th of February, 1848. There could, of 
course, be but one result. The Mcaraguans were dislodged, 
with the loss of some fifteen or twenty killed, and about the 
same number wounded. With an equal force and equip- 
ments, the issue might have been different. The English 
conmaander reported his loss at two killed and fourteen 
wounded, but the Nicaraguans protest that it was four or 
five times that number, and the men were anxious to con- 
vince us of the fact by opening the grave where the English 



72 NIOAEAGUA — ^NAERATIVE. 

had buried tlieir dead. We did not, however, take interest 
enough in the toatter to stop, and were consequently obliged 
to keep our doubts, if we entertained any, to ourselves. 
Certain it is, that the British commander did not include in 
his statement the loss of Mr. Walker, "British Consul and 
Greneral Agent on the Mosquito shore," who, with a boon 
companion, was reported " accidentally drowned." Walker 
was the most effective agent in getting up the attack on San 
Juan, and in organizing the British pretensions, being always 
at hand to manufacture "historical evidence," and his death 
almost consoled the Mcaraguans for their defeat. Captain 
Loch was, I beheve, promoted for his gallantry, in what the 
Admiralty termed " the brilliant action of Serapiqui." The 
whole affair was a wanton act of aggression, and worthy only 
of pirates. No wonder the sailors hissed "death to the En- 
ghsh" through their closed teeth, as we swept past the scene 
of their humiliation. 

The Serapiqui is a large stream, taking its rise at the base 
of the great volcano of Cartago, in Costa Eica. It is naviga- 
ble by bongos for the distance of thirty miles, and is one of 
the avenues through which the inhabited part of Costa Eica 
is reached from the coast. Flowing wholly to the eastward 
of the mountains, where the rains fall during the entire year, 
the volume of water in this river is very constant. It is 
probably the largest tributary of the San Juan. There is a 
small spot of ground partially cleared at its mouth, where 
some families had established themselves previous to the 
English troubles. Upon the seizure of San Juan, they aban- 
doned their plantations and moved into the interior; and 
so rapid is the progress of vegetation and the course of decay, 
that their rude dwellings have entirely disappeared, and no 
trace of former occupation is left, except a few plantain trees 
struggling above the rank grass and undergrowth which have 
since sprung up. 

We passed the mouth of the Eio San Francisco during the 



HILLS OF SAN CARLOS. 



73 



afternoon, and spent our third niglit above "Remolino 
Grande," where rock first appears in the bank of the river. 
This name is given to a whirlpool caused by the abrupt turn- 
ing of the stream, which is here somewhat confined by its 
unyielding banks. Up to this time we had accomplished 
only about thirty miles of our voyage, and the easiest por- 
tion for the current above is stronger, and we were now 
approaching the rapids, where progress against the stream is 
slow and difficult. 




VIEW OF THE SAK JUAN; THE HILLS OF SAN CARLOS. 



The next day we came to where the banks of the river 
were higher than we had yet seen, and where the scenery 
became, if possible, more beautiful than before. I never 
wearied in gazing upon the dense masses of foliage that 
literally embowered the river, and which, in the slanting 
light, produced those magical effects of shadow on water, 



74 _ NICAEAGUA — ^NAEEATIVE. 

■wMcli the painter deliglits to represent. We tHs day cauglit 
occasional glimpses of the high, hills at the junction of the 
San Carlos with the San Juan, where the latter breaks 
. through the barrier which shuts in the great basin of Mcara- 
gua on the east. The afternoon was rainy, and heavy 
thunder-storms swept over as we approached the highlands. 
The marineros, nevertheless, seemed to relish the change, and 
pulled at the oars with renewed vigor. Just before sunset, 
however, the rains stopped, and as the atmosphere cleared, 
we found that we were at the mouth of the San Carlos, a 
broad and long stream, which, like the Serapiqui, takes its 
rise at the base of the volcano of Oartago, in Costa Eica. 
This stream, Pedro informed us, brings down immense 
quantities of volcanic sand, ashes, and decomposed scoriaceous 
materials, which it deposits at various points, forming what 
appear to be smooth sand-bars. The material, however, is 
so soft and yielding, that whoever ventures upon it, sinks at 
once to his middle. Kear the mouth of this stream is one 
of the largest and most beautiftd islands to be found in the 
river; and, as we approached, twomanitees, feeding amongst 
the grass on its shores, plunged their unwieldy bulks heavily 
in the water. Above the island is the pass in the hills to 
which I have alluded, and which reminded me of the entrance 
of the highlands of the Hudson from the north. The moun- 
tains, upon the left, come boldly down to the water, and their 
tops were wrapped in clouds, lending to them the grandeur 
which in some degree always pertains to the vague and 
unknown. Here the river is much compressed, and the 
current deep and strong, requiring the utmost exertions of 
the men to carry the boat against it. With darkness came 
the rain again, and thunder-storm after thunder-storm rolled 
heavily along the heights of San Carlos. At times the moun- 
tain summits were literally wrapped in fire, and they seemed 
trembling to their very bases under the reverberating peals 
of thunder. None but those who have witnessed a tropical 



MELCHORA INDIANS. 75 

storm cau fully appreciate Byron's magnificent description, 
or understand tlie terrible majesty of this elemental warfare. 
I slept but little that night, and shall never forget the excite- 
ment, novel and pleasurable, which I experienced under 
these new and singular circumstances. Towards morning I 
fell asleep, and was only awakened by Ben's call to break- 
fast, — broiled ham, fried plantains, bread, and chocolate. 

From the mouth of the San Carlos to the first rapids, those 
of Machuca, the river seemed to increase in beauty. The 
banks were higher and firmer, and hills appeared, at inter 
vals, in the background. The country here is evidently 
one well adapted for cultivation, and must ultimately become 
populated. At present a few Melchora Indians roam through 
its forests, deriving their support from the river and its tri- 
butaries. They are generally very shy of the boats, and 
retire upon their approach. One or two families, however, 
have overcome their fears, and fi:om their communication 
with the boatmen, have picked up suf&cient Spanish to enable 
them to carry on a broken conversation. Two of these 
Indians, an old man and a boy, came to us in their canoe, 
and offered some dried pieces of a large fish, which abounds 
in the rivers, called Savcdo, in exchange for bread, plantains, 
or any other articles which the sailors might have to spare. 
Both were naked, and the old man was wrinkled and droop- 
ing, his gray hair matted on his head and shoulders, while 
the boy was lithe, bright, and sleek as a young panther. 
They looked curiously at our party, and frequently ex- 
claimed, hlancos, blancoSj whites, whites ! I gave them some 
fish-hooks, in return for which they insisted on my receiving 
a portion of their dried fish. Pedro endeavored to make 
them understand that we were from " El Norte," — ^but they 
knew nothing of El Norte, and only shook their heads. 
They stand in great dread of firearms, as they have been 
wantonly shot at by passengers ascending or descending the 
river. And when they glanced under the chopa, and caught 



76 NICAEAGUA — NAEEATIVE. 

siglit of our armament, tliej pushed off hastily into the 
stream; the boy standing in the bow, and striking with his 
paddle alternately on one side and the other, whUe the old 
man guided the boat. I did not succeed in procuring any 
words of the vocabulary of these Indians, but they are un- 
doubtedly of Carib stock. 

The rapids of Machuca, which derive their name from 
Capt. Diego Machuca, who explored this river in 1529, are 
the first and most formidable on the river. The bed of the 
stream, for nearly a mile, is fall of rocks and stones, between 
which the water rushes with great force. The boats, in as- 
cending, are kept close in the right shore, and are poled up, 
slowly and with great dif&culty. In descending they are 
often kept near the middle of the stream, down which they 
come, glancing between the rocks with the rapidity of an 
arrow. In descending, in June, 1850, my bongo, which 
obeyed the rudder very imperfectly, struck with immense 
force, and got jammed between the rocks, with its broadside 
to the current, where we remained for thirty hours, until 
literally dragged out by the united crews of sis boats, after 
half a day of incessant labor. The boat was of great strength, 
or it must inevitably have gone to pieces. Such accidents 
are not of frequent occurrence, as the marineros are extremely 
expert in the management of their bongos. We were four 
hours in passing the Machuca. From thence to the Eapides 
del Mico and los Valos, the current is strong, but the channel 
is free. These rapids are short, and less diflB.cult to over- 
come than those of Machuca. It is nevertheless a slow and 
laborious task to make their ascent; and until they are im- 
proved by art, they must always be great obstacles to the 
navigation of the river. At present the steamer " Orus," 
sent out by the " American Atlantic and Pacific Ship Canal 
Company," lies a wreck on the rocks of Machuca. 

On the morning of the 17th of June we made the Eapides 
del Castillo, commanded by the ancient fort of San Juan, 



EL CASTILLO VIEJO. 79 

now called the Castillo Viejo, " Old Castle." We liad looked 
forward to our arrival here with great interest, not less on 
account of the historical associations connected with the 
place, than because, from hence to the lake, the passage is 
quick and comparatively easy. The morning was wet and 
gloomy, and altogether the most forbidding of any we had 
yet encountered, hardly excepting that on which we bad 
made the coast, in the execrable little Francis. I neverthe- 
less put on my water-proof poncbo, and took my sect by the 
side of Pedro, on the pineta. 

A league below the fort we passed the island of Bartola, 
on which, beneatb the dense verdure, we could discover 
traces of the ancient advance works of the fortress. It was 
here the English buried their men who were killed, or died 
of disease during the memorable but fruitless expedition 
against Nicaragua, in 1780, under the command of Colonel 
Poison, and Captain, afterwards Lord, Nelson. This island 
was carried by Nelson, who here distinguished himself for 
the first time. 

Passing the island, we came to a broad and beautiful reach 
in the river, at the head of which, upon a commanding emi- 
nence, rise the walls of the Castillo. The hill resembles that 
of Chapultepec, near Mexico ; is equally bold, and has been 
scarped to the steepness and regularity of the pyramids. The 
sides are now covered with bushes, and matted over with 
vines, but the walls still frown gloomily above the mass of 
verdure. At the foot, and nearly on the level of the water, 
is what is called the " Platforma^'' where were the ancient 
water-batteries. It is now occupied by a few thatched 
houses, — ^the quarters of a .small garrison kept here by the 
Nicaraguan government, as an evidence of occupancy, and to 
assist boats in passing the rapids of the Castle, which, al- 
though narrow, are very powerfal, and better deserving the 
name of falls than rapids. Here the boats have to be 
" tracked up" by sheer force ; and it is usual for all pas- 



80 NICARAGUA— KAREATIVE. 

sengers to land, and to lighten tlie boat in evely waj possi- 
ble. It is often necessary to take out a considerable part of 
tlie freiglit, or to wait for tbe arrival of another boat, so as 
to join forces in making tbe ascent. 

Arrived in the eddj below the " Platforma," M. and my- 
self bestrid the shoulders of our men, and were deposited 
on shore. "We started at once for the castle, by a path 
which the garrison, under express orders from the govern- 
ment, kept clear of bushes. I glanced into one of the huts 
as I passed, but saw nothing beyond a very pretty yellow 
girl, swinging slowly to and fro in a hammock, with one 
naked leg hanging indolently over the side. She threw 
aside her long black curls, but, without changing her posi- 
tion, exclaimed, " Adios, California !" A party of outward- 
bound Californians had spent a number of days here, a few 
weeks previously, and had evidently been on familiar terms 
with the seiiora. 

The ascent to the castle was very steep and slippery from 
the rain, which had fallen uninterruptedly all the morning. 
A wide and deep fosse ran around the brow of the hill, with 
perpendicula,r escarpments, which we crossed on a narrow 
causeway, evidently of comparatively recent construction. 
If the work seemed imposing from the river, how much 
more impressive was it when we looked down from its walls 
into two tiers of chambers sunk in the rock, and in which 
tall trees were growing, their topmost branches scarcely 
reaching to the level on which we stood. "We descended by 
a bomb-proof stairway to the bottom, into what had been the 
magazine, and into the rocky chambers where the ancient 
garrison had been quartered, more than ever impressed with 
the daring and energy of those iron men who had subverted 
the empires of Montezuma and the Incas ; and who, within 
fifty years after the Discovery, had traversed every part 
of the continent, from California to La Plata. We went 
into the chapel ; there was the niche in which had stood the 



EL CASTILLO VIEJO. 81 

cross, and an effigy of " Nuestra Madre de Mercedes," " Our 
Mother of Mercj," and beneath, it was the font for holding 
the holy water. By a passage, protected from shot, we as- 
cended to what is called the tower, — a solid mass of masonry, 
rising some sixty feet above the lower works, with a parapet 
embrasured for twelve guns, and now almost as sohd and 
substantial as if built but yesterday. In this climate, where 
the great corrodent, frost, never reaches, the durability of 
good masonry is almost incredible. The floor of the tower, 
mth the exception of the centre, which had been broken, 
probably under the impression that treasure might be con- 
cealed there, was as smooth and firm as ever. Upon the 
western side of the work was the main entrance, the massive 
buttresses which supported the drawbridge, and a glacis, 
subsiding to a terrace, which had been the parade .ground, 
garden, and cemetery of the garrison. All around the work 
on this side was an arched way, and immediately facing the 
draw, and firmly imbedded in the masonry of the tower, a 
block of stone, bearing a long inscription, but too much de- 
faced to be perfectly made out. Its purport, however, is, 
that the castle was reconstructed^ under royal orders, by the 
Grovernor Intendant of Nicaragua and Costa Eica, for the 
defence of the river, in 1747. How long previously works 
had existed there is now unknown, — ^probably from the mid- 
dle of the sixteenth century. . Great but ineffective efforts had 
evidently been made to dislodge or remove this stone, which 
bears too potential evidence against the pretensions of one 
" J. Bull," to be regarded with favor by any in his interest. 

On the north-western bastion of the fort and looking both 
up and down the river, stands a sentinel's box of stone, and 
close beside it, firmly fixed in the walls, the stump of the 
ancient flag-staff. "Within the box were yet to be seen the 
grooves which the muskets of the sentinels had yrom in the 
stone. We thrust our heads through the windows, but saw 
nothing except Pedro and his men, some to their shoulder>= 

6 



82 



NICAEAaUA— NARRATIVE. 



in the water, pushing up " La Granadina," and others tug- 
ging at the rope attached to her bows. 

This fort was captured by the English on the 29th of April, 
1780. The plan of the expedition was formed by Gen. Sir 
John Dalling/ and had for its object to get possession of Lake 
Nicaragua, and the cities of Leon and Granada, and thus to cut 




.f»^^g^ 



sentinel's box at the CASTILLO VIEJO. 



off communication between the northern and southern Span- 
ish possessions in America. The land forces were commanded 
by Colonel Poison, under whose orders Captain Kelson, then 
in command of the ship "Hinchinbrook," acted. The Span- 
- Clark and Mc Arthur's Life of Nelson, vol. p. 32. 



A PASSAGE IN HISTORY. 88 

isla garrison consisted of two hundred and twenty-eight men, 
under the command of Juan de Ayssa. Notwithstanding 
the overwhelmingly superior force of the English, the siege 
was a protracted one. The castle was finally brought to 
terms by the English obtaining possession of a hill command- 
ing it in the rear. By the terms of capitulation, "in con- 
sideration of the gallant defence of the fort," the garrison 
was permitted to march out with colors flying, drums beat- 
ing, with lighted matches, muskets and sidearms, and to be 
furnished with vessels and provisions to convey them to any 
port of Spain in America which might be agreed upon.^ This 
triumph was dearly purchased, and was productive of no 
good results. The entire expedition was a failure, and is 
passed over very lightly in the English annals. Of the two 
hundred men comprising the crew of Nelson's vessel, but ten 
survived the expedition, and he himself narrowly escaped 
death. In January, 1781, the English abandoned the castle, 
and withdrew to Jamaica. CoUingwood apologises for the % 
failure of the expedition, on the ground that "it was formed 
without a sufQ.cient knowledge of the country, and presented 
difficulties not to be surmounted by human skill and perse- 
verance. It was dangerous to proceed on the river, from the 
rapidity of the current, and the numerous falls over rocks 
which intercepted the navigation ; the climate, too, was dead- 
ly, and no constitution could resist its effects."* 

Some conception of the difficulty of ascending the rapids 
of the Castillo may be formed from the fact, that it required 
the utmost exertion of our men, for nearly three hours, to 
get "La G-ranadina," with no freight, past them. The boat 
once up, the crew made breakfast ; and after glancing over 
the list of the Californian party, who had not neglected to 

' Beatson's "Naval and Military Memoirs of Great Britain," vol. v. p. 9"?, and 
voL vi. p. 230. 
* Memoirs, 5th ed., vol. i., p. 10. 



84 ITICAEAGUA — NAEEATIVE, 

inscribe tlieir names conspicuously on the walls of the fort, 
we descended, thoroughly drenched with the rain. I had 

the toothache, and M • the rheumatism, for a week, "by 

way of improvement" on our visit to the Castillo. The 
commandant of the garrison, having found out who were his 
visitors, was there to receive us ; and from him we learned 
that we were expected in the interior, and that instructions 
had gone out from the government to all its officers to treat 
us with every possible respect, and to affi^rd every facility 
to our progress. He had accordingly come to put himself 
"at our disposition." Being hungry, the colloquy took 
place, on the part of the representative of El Norte, in the 
intervals which could be spared from Ben's broiled ham and 
coffee. For an appetite, and a corresponding contempt for 
etiquette, I recommend a three hours' visit to the OastiUo 
Yiejo, before breakfast. 

A few miles above the Rapides del Castillo, are the Rapides 
del Toro, which, however, are not strong, and are easily 
passed. Beyond these the river becomes of very nearly 
uniform width, and flows with a deep, regular current. This 
part of the stream is, in fact, a kind of estuary, or extension 
of Lake Nicaragua. The banks are low, and the feathery 
palm again appears lining the shores. The whole country 
on both shores, for a long distance back, is swampy, and in 
parts covered with ^water in the rainy season. Quite a num- 
ber of sluggish streams, .nevertheless, flow through it, whose 
names indicate the character of their banks and the surround- 
ing country. There is the Rio Palo del Arco, "Arched with 
Trees;" the Rio Poco Sol, "Little Sun;" Rio Roblito, Mos- 
quito, etc. 

It was on the morning of the sixth day after our departure 
from San Juan, that the boat was pushed in to the low bank 
for breakfast, at a point but five miles below the Fort of San 
Carlos, situated at the head of the river, on the lake. Myri- 
ads of water-fowl lined the shores, and never so much as 



THE FORT OF SAN" CARLOS. 85 

moved from tlie trees above us while we breakfasted. 
Among tliem Ben discovered a majestic black eagle, which 
he shot. The bird fell near us, but as we approached him, 
he threw himself on his back, with open beak, fierce eye,, and 
threatening talons, defiant to the last. I would have given 
more than one hard dollar to have undone the wanton act, 
and sent the proud bird unharmed once more, free to his 
native mountains. 

Although the novelty of our ascent, (ninety miles in six 
days, think of that, ye voyagers on the Hudson or our west- 
ern rivers ! ) had in some degree compensated for its tedious- 
ness, and we had "put in" the time rather agreeably than 
otherwise, yet it was with unqualified satisfaction that we 
learned that we had nearly passed the river. We were impa- 
tient to look upon the great lake, of which the world had 
heard so much but knew so little, and thought our progress, 
over the intervening five miles, unaccountably slow. At 
eleven o'clock, however, upon passing a large island, the 
river opened in a broad reach, and we saw before us the waters 
of the lake. A commanding eminence, cleared of trees, and 
surmounted by a few houses and a flag-staff, rose where the 
lake terminated and the river commenced. The men seemed 
hardly less pleased than ourselves ; but after pulling with 
great energy for a few minutes, suddenly stopped, and simul- 
taneously plunged overboard. We had become accustomed 
to all sorts of fantastic freaks, and contented ourselves 
with looking on without asking questions. After paddling 
about for a while, they clambered aboard, and then com- 
menced a grand hunt for the clothes which had been so 
summarily laid aside when we left San Juan, These were 
dragged to light from all conceivable out-of-the-way nooks, 
and directly the whole crew was dressed in clean attire, 
which made us quite ashamed of our soiled garments. The 
economy, not to say the convenience, of going naked, for 
the purpose of keeping one's clothes clean, was never more 



86 NICARAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 

manifest. Pedro insisted on having the flag unfurled from 
the pineta^ and before we had got within a mile from the 
fort, produced his conch-shell, and blew an awful blast upon 
it. A few figures appeared on the hill near the flag-staff, 
and directly the blue and white flag of Nicaragua, with an 
oval in the centre, containing three volcanoes and the rising 
sun, was run to its top. The roll of a drum, and the glanc- 
ing of pohshed arms in the sun, showed us that we were 
recognized, and made us more than ever ashamed of our 
shabby exteriors. But what was to be done? Our trunks 
were wedged immovably beneath us, and if once dragged 
out, to our future eminent discomfort, where and how could 
we make our toilet? Besides we had no time for operations, 
the men were pulling with all their force, and we were 

rapidly nearing the fort. M , with one foot wrapped in 

a napkin, (a nigua had unluckily escaped detection at San 
Juan,) proposed that we should throw our gutta percha 
ponchos over our garments, and decline going on shore, as the 
only feasible means of keeping up appearances. This was 
hardly agreed upon and done, before "La Granadina" dashed 
round the point, and up to the landing of San Carlos. The 
Gommandante and his subordinates, in full uniform, the offi- 
cers of the Aduana or Custom-House, and a large deputation 
of the people, were all on the beach to receive us, which they 
did with a storm of vivas, and before we had well recovered 
from our surprise, a canoe was placed alongside, and the first 
Alcalde desired us to land. We were, of course, extremely 
obliged, but preferred to remain on board, as we should pro- 
ceed at once. Pedro spoiled this by saying that he must 
ship his masts here, and that his men must eat, and we knew 
this double performance was good for five or six hours. So, 
trusting to the impenetrable ponchos, we got into the canoe, 
and were guided to thg shore. We did not feel particularly 
imposing while receiving the congratulations of our new 
friends, and at once accepted the proposal of the commandante 



THE C OMM AND ANTE S HOUSE. 87 

to go to his house, which was airily situated at the top of 
the hill, and within what had been part of the ancient de- 
fences. Here about twenty-five men, composing the garrison, 
were drawn up, who presented arms as we passed. 

The commandante's house, like all the rest, was composed 
of a substantial frame- work of timber ; the sides were made 
of canes netted together, the roof was thatched, and the floor 
the natural earth, excepting that of one room, which was 
paved with brick tiles. A number of pigeons were billing 
and cooing in a snug place under the eaves ; an exceedingly 
quiet hen sat brooding beneath a table in one corner of the 
principal room, and through an opening in a cloth parti- 
tion, we caught sight of a pretty bed, with snow-white cur- 
tains, with a gaudy palm mattress spread in front, on which 
a full-sized, voluptuously-shaped young woman was playfully 
tossing a naked infant, some six months old, which crowed 
in very glee, while a young, clumsy little dog leaped around 
the child, and barked asthmatically from sheer sympathy. 
The cool wind rustled amidst the palm thatch, while the 
sunlight stole in checkered mazes between the woven canes. 
Altogether the scene, combining so much of simplicity and 
novelty, impressed me more than any I had ever witnessed. 
I forgot, for the moment, that I was keejDing my host stand- 
ing, and that the servant was holding the hammock, which 
invariably swings in every dwelling, open for my reception. 
I apologized, while the little garrison, bringing their arms to 
shoulder with a clang, defiled before the door, the officer 
saluting us in a most formal manner. Our host was anxious 
to have us remove our ponchos, and seemed puzzled at our 
pertinacity in keeping them on. By-and-by, however, they 
became insupportably hot, and, as the best way of getting 
out of them and a scrape together, I frankly told the whole 
story of our dilemma, and dragged off the abominations. I 
fear " El Norte " did not cut a very imposing figure, under the 
close scrutiny to which he was subjected. 



88 mCAEAGUA — ^NAREATIVE. 

The commandante insisted on onr dining, and we liad no 
indisposition to do him the favor,' — ■particularly as we had 
ocular demonstration, in the flitches of dried meat, the lus- 
cious-looking plantains, and other edibles, which hung from 
the rafters, (not less than in the person of our rotund host, 
whose uniform was strained to the utmost limit in the but- 
toning,) that his larder was well supplied, and the wants of 
the inner man properly cared for. Preparatory to taking 
a walk through the little village, which the commandante 
told us was "muy pobre," very poor, we all took a drop of 
brandy, to his toast complimentary to us, and " to the Presi- 
dent of the United States," " El Esclarecido Grener a! Taylor." 

I have said that the house of the commandante stood within 
the ancient outworks of the strong fort of San Carlos. 
The rocky summit of the point had been smoothed, and the 
slopes scarped, so as to render ascent difficult, if not imprac- 
ticable. A battery, which raked the river for a mile, once 
existed here ; but the few rusty guns which remain are more 
formidable in appearance than in fact. The fort itself, which 
formerly communicated with this battery by a covered way, 
stands some distance back, on the highest point of land in 
the vicinity. It was very strong, but is now in complete 
decay, and covered with large trees and bushes, so as to be 
entirely hidden from view. Within it we observed many 
very heavy pieces of ordnance, some of which were cast in 
Manilla, and trees were growing up through heaps of rusty 
cannon-balls. The position completely commands the en- 
trance to the lake, and from the nature of the surrounding 
country must have been nearly impregnable. 

The present town of San Carlos consists only of some 
twenty cane or board houses, occupied chiefly by the officers 
of the customs, and the soldiers with their families. Since 
the seizure of San Juan, the customs on goods entering the 
State, via that port, have been collected here. This circum- 
stance, together with the fact that aU the boats passing 



RIO FRIO — GUATOSOS INDIAJSTS. 89 

througli the river stop liere to unsliip or resume their masts, 
and renew their supplies, makes it a place of some importance. 
It is dehghtfuUy situated, and from the corridor of the com- 
mandant's house, one of the finest views in the world is pre- 
sented to the traveller. The broad lake spreads like a mir- 
ror in front, its opposite shores marked by the regular vol- 
canic peaks of Orosi, Madeira, and Ometepec, capped with 
clouds, which rise dim and blue in the distance. Nearer 
lie the fairj-looking islands of La Boqueta, golden under 
the tropical sun, while in the foreground the emerald shores 
stretch their wide arms on either side, a fit setting for so 
gorgeous a picture. Immediately opposite the town, flow- 
ing into the lake, within a few rods of where the San Juan 
flows out, is the Eio Frio, Cold River, whence the water for 
consumption in the village is brought. The sources of this 
river have never been explored, but they are supposed to be 
somewhere in the mountains of Costa Rica. 

A tribe of Indians, called the Gruatmos, who hold no com- 
munication with the whites, inhabit its banks, and resist all 
attempts at exploration. The late commandante of the fort, 
Don Trinidad Salazar, endeavored to ascend the stream a 
few months previously to our arrival ; but on the sixth day 
he was interrupted by a large body of Indians, and after a 
sharp contest, in which he was severely wounded, was com- 
pelled to retreat. He subsequently gave me a glowing account 
of the beauty of the stream, and the fertility and luxuriance 
of its shores. It has a depth of two fathoms of water, for a 
distance of forty miles above its mouth, and from his account, 
it could probably be navigated by steamers for twice that 
distance. The fact that a stream of this size, and the wide 
extent of country around it, are wholly unknown, -would 
seem to show how much remains to be discovered in Central 
America, and how broad a field it holds out for enterprise and 
adventure. 

Between the mouth of the Rio Frio and the source of the 



90 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 

San Juan, is a broad sand-bar, wHch seems to be a grand 
sunning-ground for alligators. Hundreds congregate bere 
during tbe dry season, wben tbe bar is exposed, and tbey 
appear to bave an exceedingly good time of it. We could 
distinctly see tbeir ugly, black carcasses from tbe com- 
mandante's corridor ; and our bost sbowed us a basket of 
tbeir teetb, wbicb be bad picked up on tbe bar, and wbicb 
were more pleasant to contemplate in tbat condition, tban 
wben adorning tbe jaws of tbe living reptile. 

A Frencb officer, in tbe JSTicaraguan service, (wbo was 
foolisb enougb to take part against tbe government in an 
attempted revolution sbortly after, and got sbot for bis pains,) 
gave us some facts relative to alligators, of wbicb we were 
previously ignorant. Tbose most satisfactory were tbat tbey 
occasionally bave terrible figbts among.tbemselves, in wbicb 
many get killed, and tbat tbe males destroy all tbe eggs of 
tbe females tbey can find, besides, Saturn-like, eating up all 
tbe young ones tbey can catcb. We only regretted tbat tbey 
were not more successful in tbeir amiable attentions to tbeir 
own progeny. 




THE IGUANA. 



CHAPTER IV, 



It, 



SAN OAELOS — DINNER AT THE COMMANDANTE S — ^INTRODUCTION TO " TORTIL- 
LAS T FRIJOLES" — ^A SIESTA — NEWS OF THE ATTEMPTED REVOLUTION — AN- 
TICIPATING EVENTS, AND WHAT HAPPENED TO THE COMMANDANTE AFTER WE 
LEFT — DEPARTURE UNDER A MILITART SALVO — ^VIEW OF SAN CARLOS FROM 
THE LAKE — LAKE NAVIGATION — CARD PLATING GORGEOUS SUNSET A MID- 
NIGHT STORM — SAN MIGUELITO, AND THE " BATH OF THE NAIDES" — PRIMI- 
TIVE SMPLICITT — A DAT ON THE LAKE — "eL PEDERNAL" — A BATH WITH 
ALLIGATORS — ^AN " EMPACHO'" — ^A TRIAL AT MEDICINE, AND GREAT SUCCESS — 
SECOND NIGHT ON THE LAKE — THE VOLCANOES OF MOMOBACHO, OMETEPEO, AND 
MADEIRA — VOLCANIC SCENERT — THE COAST OF CHONTALES — THE CREW ON 
POLITICS — " TIMBUCOS" AND " CALANDRACAS," OR A GLANCE AT PARTT DI- 
VISIONS — ARRIVAL AT " LOS CORALES" SOME ACCOUNT OF THEM — ALARMING 

NEWS— A COUNCIL OF WAR — FAITH IN THE UNITED STATES FLAG — THE ISLAND 
OP CUBI — MORE NEWS, AND A RETURN OF THE " EMPACHo" — DISTANT VIEW OF 
GRANADA — ^MAKING A TOILETTE — ^BEES — ARRIVAL AT THE RUINED FORT OF 
GRANADA — HOW THET LAND THERE — SENSATION AMONGST THE SPECTATORS — 

ENTRANCE TO THE CITT — THE ABANDONED CONVENT OF SAN FRANCISCO THE 

HOUSES OF THE INHABITANTS — FIRST IMPRESSIONS — SOLDIERS AND BARRI- 
CADES — THRONGED STREETS — SENOR DON FREDEFJCO DERBTSHIRE " OUR 

host" A WELCOME OFFICIAL COURTESIES — OUR QUARTERS FIRST NIGHT 

IN GRANADA. 

Two lionrs sufficed to exhaust tlie lions of San Carlos, in 
eluding tlie arsenal, wHch. was a cane liut, with a quantity of 
powder in kegs, piled in tlie middle and covered with hides ; 
two pieces of artillery, and a hundred stand of arms, over 
all of which a single sentinel kept watch, and the public 
warehouse or bodega^ which was nothing more than a great 
shed, with convenient hammocks for its idle guardians, — we 
saw all these before two o'clock, at which hour dinner was 



92 NICARAGUA — NAERATIVE. 

served in tlie commandante's house. The table-clotli was 
■unimpeacliably white, and the service altogether neat and 
ample. It was clearly the intention of our host to do his 
best ; even the pigeons seemed impressed with the idea that 
something extraordinary was going on, and the hen in the 
corner was nervous with excitement in view of the display. 
All the juvenile population of the place, if possible still more 
airily dressed than the urchins at San Juan, crowded round 
the doors, (they had followed us, at a distance, during our 
peregrinations), and regarded the whole affair with evident 
admiration. A number of their seniors, comprising the more 
respectable part of the inhabitants, arrayed for the occasion, 
in snow-white shirts and pantaloons, each with white buck- 
skin shoes, and a red sash, now made their appearance, and 
were collectively and individually introduced, to the renewal 
of our mortification on the score of dress. 

We sat down at the table, which was placed so as to give 
me the seat of honor in the hammock, while the comman- 
dante and his lieutenant, took, respectively, the head and foot. 
They declined to eat, devoting themselves wholly to supply- 
ing their guests. This, we afterwards learned, was Mcaraguan 
etiquette, when special distinction was intended to he con- 
veyed. We were now, for the first time, introduced to the 
eternal tortilla and the omnipresent /r^bZes, to say nothing of 
the endless variety of dulces (sweetmeats), for which all 
Spanish America is famous. We commenced with beef, cul- 
minated over chicken, and finished with oranges, bananas, 
coffee, and cigars ; with a pleasant stomachic conviction that 
good dinners were not incompatible with cane-huts, brood- 
ing hens in the corners, and amative pigeons under the 
eaves ! We were anxious to see the sefiorita, of whom we had 
had a glimpse on our arrival, and whose low, laughing voice 
we occasionally heard through the cloth partition ; but this 
was a delicate point, which we were cautious in touching 
upon, since M had found out that the commandante was a 



NEWS OF THE EEVOLUTION. 93 

bachelor. Ah, commandante ! I may have been mistaken, 
but I feel very sure it was a large black eye which I caught 
merry glances of through a small rent in that cloth partition I 
A siesta was strongly commended to us after dinner, and 
hammocks were strung for the whole party. It was indis- 
pensable, our host told us, in this climate, and he wondered 
how it could be omitted in El Norte. Life, in his opinion, 
without a siesta after dinner, must soon become a wearisome 
affair, — and he quoted some verses from a native poet which 
were conclusive on the subject ; so we yielded, and lay 
down; the people left, the doors were closed, and all was 
silent — even the pigeons were still. Two hours passed in a 
dreamy, pleasurable way, with just enough of consciousness 
to enjoy the mingled sensation of novelty and ease, when 
Ben came to apprise us that the boat was ready, and the 
crew on board. Our host pressed us to stay until the next 
morning, but the wind and weather were fair ; and, although 
the temptation was strong, we adhered to our first inten- 
tions, and were deaf to argument. Before leaving, I in- 
quired about the revolution of which we had heard so much 
at San Juan, but got no very satisfactory information. There 
had been an " escaramuza," a scrimmage, at Granada, and a 
lawless, reckless fellow, under proscription for murder, named 
Somoza, had collected together a party of adherents, and 
sacked the city of Eivas or Nicaragua. The commandante 
was certain that peace and order were by this time restored ; 
but if they were not, our arrival would certainly produce 
quiet. The commandante hardly thought that the same 
robber chief, of whom he spoke so lightly, would pay him a 
visit within a fortnight, and carry him off" a prisoner! But 
so it proved to be ; and although our commandante effected 
his escape, at imminent peril, through a wilderness, unarmed 
and alone, yet he was suspected of cowardice, imprisoned, and 
court-martialed. He came out safely, however, a shade less 
rotund perhaps, "a wiser if not a better man;" and before I 



94 NICAEAGUA — NARRATIVE. 

left tlie country I had the satisfaction of seeing him reinstated 
at the fort, fat, happy, and hospitable as ever. The dark-eyed 
senorita was there too. 

At five o'clock we embarked, for the first time, on Lake 
Nicaragua. The people all came to bid us good-bye ; and 
one old man insisted upon a parting embrace. Like the pro- 
phet of old, he said he was now ready to die, for he knew 
that his country was safe beneath the guardianship of the 
Eepublic of the North. We pushed off under a torrent of 
vivasj and a feu de joie was fired by the little garrison, which 
Ben efficiently returned with his double-barrelled gun, while 
?edro blew another nerve-cracking blast on his conch — that 
awful conch ! The view of San Carlos, from the lake, was 
picturesque in the extreme, and the accompanying sketch of 
it will be sufficiently curious twenty years hence, when it 
shall have become, as it inevitably will, a large and im- 
portant town. Already a steamer plies regularly between 
San Carlos and Granada ; and the alligators, disturbed in 
their slumbers on the sand-bar, by its plashing wheels and 
noisy engine, are meditating a grand migration into the coun- 
try of the Gruatosos. 

The faintest of all zephyrs was dying away on the lake 
when we started, yet we had not gone half a mile before the 
oars were drawn aboard, and a huge triangular sail spread 
from the newly-rigged mast. The breeze was hardly strong 
enough to fill it ; and the boat dawdled, rather than moved, 
through the water. "We expostulated with Pedro ; but it 
was useless ; the marineros never did row while there was 
the least apology for a wind abroad, and the " demonio" him- 
self couldn't make them. So Pedro lit his cigar, while the 
men produced a pack of cards, and commenced a game, 
novel enough to us, in which it was the privilege of the win- 
ner to pinch, beat, and otherwise maltreat the loser, -who 
was obliged to submit without resistance, until the spectators 
pronounced " bastante," enough. One fellow, who was a 



SUNSET ON THE LAKE. 97 

little rebellious, was incontinently thrust overboard, to tlie 
great damage of a gaudy bandana handkercliief wliicli lie 
wore about his head, and to the manifest delectation of the 
crew, who jibed him unmercifully as a " ladron," and " pi- 
caro," " a rascal" and "a loafer." 

The sun went down that night directly behind the purple 
peak of Orosi. The body of the volcano appeared to be a 
nucleus, whence fan-like rays radiated up to the very zenith, 
while the yellow light streamed past the mountain upon the 
lake, in a dazzling flood, in which the islands of Solentenami 
and La Boqueta seemed to float as in liquid gold. As the 
sun sank lower, the hues of the heavens changed to crimson, 
bringing out the palm-trees on the islands in high relief 
against the sky ; then to purple, and finally to the cool gray 
of evening, through which the stars shone down with a 
strange and almost unnatural lustre. The transition was 
rapid, for here the lingering twiHght of northern latitudes is 
unknown. Our boatmen were not insensible to the almost 
unearthly beauty of the scene ; and when it all was passed, 
they began the evening chaunt, 

"Ave Maria purisima," etc. 

the echoes of which were repeated from the shores, until 
they died away in murmurs in the distance. 

The night was wonderfully still. "We could distinctly hear 
the tinkling of guitars at the fort, at least three miles distant, 
interrupted by bursts of gay laughter, until a late hour. Be • 
fore I slunk under the cliopa^ however, clouds began to 
gather in the north-east, lighted up momentarily by flashes 
of lightning, while fitful gusls of wind, veering in every 
quarter, betokened the approach of a thunder-storm. I 
nevertheless went to sleep while listening to the distant 
mutterings of thunder and the dismal howlings of the "mono 
Colorado," or howling monkey. A little past midnight, 

7 



98 NICAEAaUA— JSTAERATIVB. 

however, we were all roused in a summary manner by a 
dash, of water full in our faces, followed the nest instant by 
the lurching of the boat, which tumbled passengers, arms, 
books, and whatever was movable, all in a heap together. I 
disengaged myself in a moment, and scrambled out upon the 
pineta, where Pedro, clinging to the tiller, was calling fran- 
tically to the men, who in a confused, shouting mass were 
clustered around the swaying mast, vainly endeavoring to take 
in the sail. "We were before the wind, which was blowing a 
hurricane, and going with immense velocity, the hissing wa- 
ters rising under our stern, almost to the level of the pineta. 
Broad sheets of blinding lightning fell around us, followed 
by deafening peals of thunder, drowning for a moment the 
roar of the tempest. I had hardly time to comprehend the 
peril of our situation, with the sail entangled in the ropes, 
and swaying from side to side, when a flash of lightning 
revealed to me Ben's stalwart form amongst the frightened 
marineros. I saw his short Eoman sword glance for an 
instant above their heads, — ^he had cut the ropes. The sail 
fell, but was at once dragged aboard, while the relieved boat 
scudded steadily before the storm, which soon exhausted 
itself, leaving us drenched and uncomfortable, tossing roughly 
amongst the waves. The men took to the oars without an 
order, and in evident relief pulled back towards the course 
fi-om which we had been driven. All that night, thunder- 
storms, like invading columns, swept over the lake around 
us, but we fell in the course of none of them. They all 
seemed to linger against the high volcanoes on the opposite 
shores of the lake, as if they would level in their wrath the 
daring rocks which opposed their progress. 

The men slept no more that night, but pulled steadily and 
silently at the oars. Towards morning I crept again under 
the chopa, and slumbered until roused by the bellowing of 
cattle, and by the sun shining brilliantly in my face. It was 
after nine o'clock ; we had passed the islands of La Boqueta, 







THE NIGHT STOKM. 







SAN MIGUELITO. 



BAHITA DE SAN MIGUEL. 101 

wliicli lay witliin view, fresli and inviting, exposing under 
an archway of trees one or two picturesque huts, with, canoes 
drawn up in front of them. We were within a snug 
little bay, in front of a broad sandy beach, on which the men 
were kindling fires preparatory to breakfast, while a herd of 
sleek-looking cattle wandered along the shore, here stooping 
to drink, and there engaging in mimic fights. Beneath the 
trees wound back a broad, well-beaten pathway, and beyond 
we could see the golden tops of palm-trees, the thatched 
roofs of houses, and hear the crowing of cocks, and the merry 
sound of infant voices. We were in the " Bahita de San 
Miguel," the little bay of San Miguel, distant about twenty 
miles from San Carlos, on the northern shore of the lake. 
The storm of the preceding night seemed almost like a 
dream ; could it be possible that a few hours had wrought 
such a change ? But the tattered sails, and the saturated 
blankets beneath the chopa, bore testimony to the reality of 
the storm. In fact, Pedro was yet full of wrath at what he 
called the stupidity of his men— they were " tontos" all, 
fools and brutes. I had been as indignant as himself, but 
was too glad to get out of the scrape safely, to nurse my 
wrath ; so I poured out for Pedro a gill of brandy in his 
calabash, which he drank to our good health, and smacking 
his lips, straightway recovered his temper. 

Directly, a little troop of girls, with purple skirts and 
white guipils, their long black hair dangling loosely to their 
waists, and balancing red water-jars on their heads, came 
laughing down the pathway for water. They appeared to 
be old friends of our crew, who hailed them gayly with " h. 
Dios, mi alma!" "buena manana, mi corazon !" adieu my 
soul!" "good morning, my heart!" to which they replied 
with "comoestan, misnegritos ?" " how are you, my darkeys ?" 
and other railleries, very much, to our thinking, of the Bowery 
order. They passed along the shore a little distance, to a 
clump of bushes, and the next instant we saw them plashing 



102 NICAEAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 

like mermaids in the water; wHle some of our crew, wlic 
were throwing a net "for a fry," as Pedro said, tried tc 
frighten them by shouting "lagartos, lagartos!" "alligators, 
alligators !" and affecting to make great efforts to escape to 
the shore. But the girls were not to be " sold" so easily, 
and only laughed the louder, and splashed water in the faces 
of the jesters as they ran by. Upon discovering us, instead, 
as the reader might suppose, of making for the shore in con- 
fusion, they paddled boldly up to the boat, their long hair 
trailing like a veil on the surface of the water. They looked 
laughingly up in our faces for a moment, exclaiming, " Cali- 
fornia," then ducked under, and were away. It seemed to 
us, while they stood drying their wet locks on the beach, 
that no sculptor could desire fairer models for his studio ; 
nor the painter a more effective group for "the Bath of the 
Naides." We were there in an auspicious period; those 
days of primitive simplicity are passing away, if, indeed, they 
are not already past. 

After drying ourselves in the sun, we took our guns and 
went on shore. We followed the inviting path to which I 
have referred, for a short distance, when we reached a brisk 
little brook which came murmuring among the stones with 
a familiar New England accent, here rippling over the bright 
sand, and there widening into broad, transparent pools. In 
one of them a whole bevy of little naked children were tum- 
bling about, who took to their heels, like young ducks, upon 
our approach. Here we met Ben, coming down from the 
rancherias with two foaming calabashes of fresh milk, one of 
which was drained on the spot, the other reserved for our 
coffee. I shot a few strange water-birds and a parrot amongst 
the bushes, and strayed back to the shore just in time for 
broiled fish, crisp and hot from the fire. 

Every step into this strange country had been full of nov- 
elty; and although our interpst never flagged for an instant, 
yet we thought San Miguelito more interesting than any place 



NAVIGATION ON THE LAKE. 103 

we had encountered, and at first entertained some vague 
notions of stopping there for the day. But when the fresh- 
ness of the morning had passed, which it did before we had 
finished breakfast, when the cattle had all gone off in the 
woods, and no more amphibious girls came down for 
water, we were not only ready but anxious to depart, which 
we did a little before noon. I shall never forget our break- 
fast at San Miguelito. 

The day was still and sultry : Kature seemed wearied of the 
elemental war of the preceding night, and anxious for repose ; 
the branches on the palm trees on the shore appeared to 
droop languidly ; while the men, under plea of previous extra 
labor, paddled along at what Ben piously denominated " a 
poor, dying rate." The north-east trades sweep entirely 
across the continent in Nicaragua, and this wind, for boats 
bound from San Carlos to Granada, is therefore exceedingly 
favorable. They keep close under the northern shore, 
following its bendings, until they get nearly opposite 
Granada, and then stretch boldly across the lake. This is 
done because, with their imperfect sailing gear, venturing 
into the mid-lake would almost infallibly end in being blown 
over to the leeward shore, whence they could only be relieved 
by long and toilsome rowing against a cross sea — ^for on that 
shore the waves roll with almost the strength and majesty of 
those of the ocean. The later-built boats have something of 
a keel, and are schooner-rigged. These make the passage 
from the fort more directly. But our sails were, I suppose, 
a perpetuation of those used by the Indians before the Dis- 
covery, and quite indescribable. Pedro said they were "no 
good," except before the wind, and there they would make 
the boat fly, to use his own words, " like devil." The vision 
of the night recurred to me, and I yielded a full assent to 
the remark. 

We spent nearly the whole day in vain trials to catch the 
ghosts of breezes, which came drowsily over the water, in our 



104 NICARAGUA — NAREATIVE. 

sails. I presume tliej were raised a score of times during 
the afternoon, but tlaej only fluttered for a moment, and tlien 
dropped around the masts. This went on until the men felt 
hungry, and then we put in again at "El Pedernal," the 
landing-place for the cattle estate of Don Frederico Derby- 
shire, a merchant residing in Grranada, the owner of "La 
Grranadina," and to whom we bore letters of introduction 
from his correspondents in the United States. The place 
is not inappropriately named " The Flint." It is the 
very reverse of San Miguel ; there is no smooth sandy 
beach, but instead, the whole shore is piled with rugged 
black basaltic or trachytic rocks, blistered with heat, among 
which grow some stunted trees. A narrow path winds 
amongst the rocks to a little cove, in which our boat was 
run. A man was despatched to the estate, which is situ- 
ated a mile or two inland, to know of .the mayor-domo if any 
of the products of the farm were to be sent to the city. 
Meanwhile the men went deliberately through the usual 
tedious process of dinner-making, and we got over the side 
for a bath. Notwithstanding the rocky shore, the bottom is 
a soft black mud, in which we sank to the knees. This was 
neither expected nor pleasant, and when I discovered an alli- 
gator slowly rise to the surface not two rods distant, I clamb- 
ered aboard with more expedition than grace, and gave the 
monster the contents of my gun, in return for the courtesy 
of his appearance. 

It was nearly sunset, dinner had been finished, and the ket- 
tles had been tow;ed on board again, when we heard voices, 
and suddenly turning round the point of rocks there came 
three horsemen, each carrying, in net-work sacks, four large 
square cheeses, of the weight of two arrobas (fifty pounds) 
each. The horses were ridden up to the side of the boat, 
and the cheeses carefully placed in the centre. This finished, 
a breeze having meantime sprung up, we hoisted sail, and 
glided away from "El Pedernal," not at all dissatisfied to 



AN "empacho." 105 

leave its rocks and alligators to tlieir own pleasant com- 
pany. 

One of my companions, who had been growing silent and 
pale for several hours, now gave signs of an approaching 
crisis of some sort, Pedro pronounced him laboring under 
an "empacho," and recommended brandy — ^that was his uni- 
versal specific for everything, from a sprained ankle to the 
toothache. But the patient protested against the medicine, 
as an abomination which made him only the worse to think 
of. I thought it a capital opportunity to bring out the 
medicine-chest, which had been packed with an extensive 
regard to all sorts of contingencies at "Eushton and Clark's," 
and Ben began a grand rummage for it, to the utter distrac- 
tion of everything in the boat. Meantime, as became a 
learned practitioner, I propounded the question usually 
asked by anxious mammas of complaining children, "what 
have you eaten ?" It turned out that, besides half a calabash 
of fresh milk, fried fish, three eggs, a slice of ham, and 
bread and coffee ad libitum, the patient had "put in" the 
afternoon with raw plantains, and " dulce^'' — sugar ! I com- 
prehended that " empacho" meant something like surfeit, 
and to disguise the dose, mixed a little tartar emetic with 
magnesia, which wrought a wonderful cure — ^much to my 
elevation in the eyes of the erew, who set me down at once 
as a great unedico. I had immediate applications on behalf 
of ailing wives, scalded babies, and feverish boys, for all of 
which I prescribed, after deliberate consultation of the 
" Pocket Physician." "While this was going on night fell, 
and I lost the sunset, — a cfrcumstance for which, as he is 
thereby spared the description, the reader is no doubt prop- 
erly thankful. 

As the evening progressed, the breeze continued to freshen, 
and about midnight, Pedro, calculating that we were suffi- 
ciently to the windward, laid the course of the boat direct 
for Granada. I went to bed early, and owing to the disturb- 



106 NICARAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 

ance of tlie previous niglit, slept soundly. When I woke, 
we were in mid lake, and might have been in mid sea, for 
all the difference discoverable in the appearance of the waves 
and water. The wind was strong, cool, and damp, and the 
men had their handkerchiefs bound round their heads, and 
their blankets wrapped over their shoulders. My ailing- 
companion looked sentimental, and professed not to have 
wholly recovered from the " empacho," but as I felt qualmish 
myself, I pronounced it sea-sickness, which, as every travel- 
ler knows, never entitles the sufferer to sympathy. 

We were at least thirty miles from land, yet the. shores 
appeared wonderfully distinct and near. We now, for the 
first time, felt the majesty of the giant volcanoes of Ometepec 
and Madeira, which had hitherto seemed so dim and distant. 
There they rose clear and bold against the sky, regular as 
works of art, the moving clouds casting their sides in shadow, 
and clasping their summits as they passed, then sweeping 
away to the distant islands of the great Pacific. Between us 
and the shore was the high, uninhabited island of Zapatero, 
its outline changing every moment with our position, while 
directly in front, distinguished by the towering edges of its 
vast and ragged crater, rose the extinct volcano of Momo^ . 
bacho, at the foot of which stands the ancient city of Grranada. 
High above the forests of the shore, are some conical hills, of 
light green, bordering on yellow, which seemed to be cleared, 
and which puzzled us exceedingly. We became familiar 
with them afterwards, and I presume they are common in 
all volcanic regions. They are the cones of scoriee, sand, 
and ashes, which are heaped up during eruptions. On these, 
trees rarely take root, but in their place a species of long, 
coarse grass weaves a net- work of verdure over their smooth 
sides. This grass is of a lively green during the rainy season, 
but becomes yellow in the dry, when the hills are burned 
over, after which they change to deep sable. Thus forever 
varying, they constitute remarkable and characteristic fea- 



"timbucos" AUTD " CALANDKACAS." 107 

tures in a Nicaraguan landscape. Upon the nortiiern sliore 
of the lake we saw only the broken volcanic mountains of 
Chontales, patched with trees, here black with lava, and thgre 
red and white with scorias and sand. It should be observed 
that it is only that part of Chon*ales bordering the upper 
portion of the lake, which presents this burned and broken 
aspect. Elsewhere the shores are comparatively low and 
undulating, with extensive savannas, which furnish abun- 
dant pasturage. The whole district is well adapted for 
grazing purposes. 

Wliile we were occupied with the novel and beautiful 
scenery of the lake, our men, collected around the foot of the 
mast, were engaged in a low but earnest discussion, which 
we soon discovered related to politics, and especially to the 
attempted revolution of which we had heard so much. They 
made frequent use of the terms " Timbucos" and " Oalan- 
dracas," which were about as significant to us as " Coons" 
and "Locofocos" probably were to strangers on our own 
shores, during certain presidential elections. We had ab- 
stained from asking questions about politics, not from want 
of interest, but from motives of policy ; but took occasion to 
hear all that might be said upon the subject. We had thus 
contrived to get some imperfect notions of the partisan divi- 
sions of the country ; the bases of which, though very trivial 
to the impartial traveller, were probably quite as important in 
fact as those which we had seen sustained with so much vehe- 
mence and virulence at home. It was easy to discover that our 
crew were unanimously " Timbucos," or of the government 
party, while the " Calandracas" were the disaffected portion 
of the people. They, however, appeared to have but a sec- 
tional importance, and were far from numerous, except in the 
southern departments of the Eepublic. The robber-chief, 
Somoza, had turned this partisan feehng to some account by 
professing to be its champion, and having collected a few 
hundred reckless and ignorant men around him, made a sud- 



108 mOARAGUA — KARRATIVE. 

den and successful attack on Eivas, or Mcaragua, whicli was 
defended by a small garrison of only forty soldiers. In tlie 
attack he burned a number of houses, and committed some 
cruel murders, besides pillaging and robbing on every hand. 
According to the accounts which had reached us, however, 
the entire city had been burned, and the inhabitants slaugh- 
tered indiscriminately and without mercy. These stories, as 
well as those relating to the number of his forces, proved, in 
the end, to be gross exaggerations, — as the reader will dis- 
cover in due course. 

It appeared, from what was said, that there had been a 
vague rumor at San Carlos, to the effect that Somoza, at the 
head of three thousand men, had set out some days pre- 
viously for an attack on the city of Granada; and the proba- 
bilities of its truth, and the course to be pursued in the event 
he should have reached there, were now, as we approached the 
city, subjects of increasing interest with our men. The cir- 
cumstance that we had, on the day preceding, seen a number 
of boats, making what appeared to be a forced trip in the 
direction of San Carlos, but too far distant to be hailed, was 
dwelt upon as exceedingly significant. In short, it was evi- 
dent enough that the feehng of excited suspense amongst the 
men was every moment increasing. Pedro was silent, and 
answered our questions evasively, but listened earnestly to 
all that was said. He seemed to be oppressed by a sense of 
responsibility of some kind ; but whether on account of him- 
self, his boat, or his distinguished passengers, we could not 
make out. 

By the veering of the wind, or the "falling off" of our 
keel-less boat, instead of making the northern islands of the 
group called the " Corales," rising, hundreds in number, at 
the foot of the volcano of Momobacho, we found ourselves, at 
about two o'clock in the afternoon, at the almost extreme 
southern part of the archipelago. The approach to these 
islands was exceedingly beautiful; but when we were 



LOS CORALES — NEWS. 109 

V 

amongst tliem, out of tlie rougli waves into tlie smooth water, 
they were really enchanting. They are of volcanic origin, 
elevated in the form of cones, to the height of from twenty 
to one hundred feet. The sides are steep, and composed of 
immense volcanic rocks, black and blistered by fire; bnt 
their s"iim.mits are covered with verdure, and long vines hang 
trailing over the stones, blushing with strange flowers, almost 
to the edge of the water. Some of them, upon which there 
is a suf&cient accumulation of soil, are inhabited by Indians ; 
and their thatched huts, shaded by tall palms, with a dense 
background of plantains, are the most picturesque objects 
that can be imaarined. 

Within these islands the sail was dropped, and the oars 
resumed. Everybody was now anxious to hear the news, but 
the huts on the islands seemed to be deserted ; at least no 
one appeared, although the men shouted to the inmates at 
top of their voices. Yery soon a canoe, containing a boy 
and a woman, shot across our course, from between two little 
islands, just in advance. For a moment they showed evi- 
dences of alarm, and a disposition to retreat ; but recognising 
Pedro, they came alongside, under a shower of confused and 
eager questions, which completely confounded us, and pre- 
vented anything like an understanding of what was said. 
"We conjectured that the news was of an exciting kind, from 
the earnest faces and violent gestures of the crew. By-and- 
by the canoe pushed off, but it was fall a quarter of an hour 
before the men took up the oars, during which time there 
was a warm discussion as to whether the boat should proceed 
at once to Granada, or remain concealed amongst the islands 
until the issue of affairs at the city could be ascertained. The 
opinion, however, seemed to be pretty decided, that we should 
go ahead, at whatever hazard. This decision was based, as 
we afterwards discovered, on the faith reposed in "la ban- 
dera del Norte America," the flag of the United States; 
which they all believed neither man nor devil dared disre- 



110 NICAEAGUA — ^NAREATIVE. 

gard. It appeared tliat tlie woman and boy of tlie canoe liad 
told an alarming story of the approach of Somoza, the flight 
of the inhabitants, and the probable capture of the city. 
But Pedro, more cautious than the rest, was of the opinion 
that their tale had but little better foundation than their 
fears ; and expressed great faith in the ability of the little 
garrison of " veteranos," stationed in the city, to prevent its 
being carried by Somoza, His faith was somewhat shaken, 
however, on learning, a few minutes thereafter, from an 
Indian, lurking on one of the islands, that there had been a 
great firing in the city the previous night and this morning ; 
and that all the boats had left the landing and made for the 
opposite shore of the lake. 

There is pleasure in all kinds of excitement, which is 
rather enhanced than diminished by the presence of danger. 
And so far from being alarmed by these accounts, I was only 
the more anxious to get to Grranada. I had been told that 
Somoza, notwithstanding his crimes, cruelty, and contempt for 
the laws, had much of the cavalier in his composition ; gay, 
gallant, generous, and withal the finest looking and most 
dashing fellow in all Nicaragua. No man rode such fine 
horses, or could rival him in wielding the lance. Indeed, the 
commandante at San Carlos had intimated that he owed it 
to the place which he held in the good graces of the senori- 
tas of the country, that he had so long baffled justice and 
defied pursuit. Altogether I had pictured him something 
like the gentlemanly cut-throat of the Apennines and Sierra 
Moreno, or the amiable bandits of the Peninsula, and almost 
considered myself fortunate in the prospect of an adventure, 
at my very first step in the country. 

Two hours of steady rowing amongst the fairy " Corales" 
brought us to the little island of Cubi, when a broad bay, 
with a white beach, and an old castle on the shore, opened 
before us ; while beyond a belt of woods, on higher ground, 
rose the towers of Granada. We could distinguish litt4e of 



THE ISLAND OF CUBI. Ill 

the town except tlie red, tiled roofs of tlie houses ; and 
tliougli fi'om tliis distance it was far from imposing, yet we 
had so long looked forward to our arrival here, that had 
dome been piled on dome, and palace risen above palace, in 
long perspective, we could not have experienced greater 
satisfaction than we now did in gazing, for the first time, 
upon this ancient city. At the island, we found several huts, 
and a number of boats drawn into little nooks between the 
rocks, while beneath the trees were clusters of women and 
children, and here and there groups of men, absorbed in 
playing some noisy game of cards. With a vivid recollec- 
tion of the indifferent figure we had cut at the fort, we had 
arranged with Pedro to stop here, in order to replace our 
stained and tattered garments ; an operation which we soon 
discovered must be performed in face of the assembled popu- 
•lation of Cubi, unless we preferred to encounter the fleas 
which we fancied must infest the dirty, dog-stocked huts on 
the shore. We chose the former alternative ; but had hardly 
commenced the disruption of trunks and boxes, and tl^e 
overhauling of carpet bags, before we heard a cannon in the 
direction of the city, followed very soon by what appeared to 
be a rolHng discharge of musketry; and looking in that 
direction, we could see a volume of smoke rising from the 
centre of the town. Our invalid had a violent recurrence of 
his " empacho," refased tartar emetic, anticipated a fever, 
and was altogether too ill to leave the island. So he was led 
up to one of the huts, and deposited in a hammock. Mean- 
time the fasilade ended with one or two more discharges of 
cannon, while a white cloud rose slowly over the city. Our 
first impression was that Somoza had arrived, and that a 
fight was already in progress. The people of the island 
were also somewhat startled, and for a time watched the town 
with evident anxiety ; but in the end quietly resumed their 
amusements. Pedro also seemed to be relieved ; and after 
listening for a while, finally exclaimed that all was right : 



112 , NICAEAGUA — ^NAEEATIYE. 

the day, lie said, was a fiesta, and what we liad supposed 
a discliarge of firearms, was only tiie explosion of ^'bombas" 
or rockets, — " in point of fact," fireworks. I cannot say tliat 
I was particularly gratified with, the information, after having 
prepared myself for a siege at least, if not an assault. 

Myriads of bees, attracted by the sweets in the boat, 
swarmed around us while making bur toilet. Their first 
onset fairly drove us out on the rocks, but Pedro quieted us 
with the assurance that they were stingless, when we returned 
and completed our arrangements. It was late in the after- 
noon, the wind blowing fair, when we again put up sail, and 
steered for the landing of Granada. As we approached, we 
discovered hundreds of people on the shore and in the water, 
some in groups, and others in gay trappings dashing about 
on horseback, — a picture of activity and life. On the gray 
walls of the old castle we also discerned soldiers, their mus- 
kets glancing in the sun ; and, anchored, a little distance from 
the shore, was an odd-looking craft, in two pieces, resembhng 
some awkward canal-boat, which we afterwards discovered 
had been built to receive the engine and boiler which we 
had seen in San Juan. In this rude, unwieldy afPair, with 
infinite trouble, and after three weeks of toil, a party of some 
seventy-five outward-bound Californians had ascended the 
river and passed the lake to this place, — ^the pioneers on this 
line of transit. 

In an hour after leaving Cubi, we cast anchor under the 
walls of the old castle. Our flag attracted immediate atten- 
tion, and the people crowded upon the walls of the fort to 
look at us. Some called to Pedro, with a multitude of ges- 
ticulations; but the noise of the surf was so great that we 
could not make out what was said. The question which 
presented itself most strongly to us was, how are we going 
to land ? for a surf like that of the ocean broke on the shore. 
We had a practical answer, however, very shortly. The 
cable was let out, so as to bring us as far in shore as was 



LANDING AT GRANADA. 113 

safe, and tlien three or four sailors leaped overboard, their 
heads and shoulders just appearing above the water, and in- 
vited us to get on I Get on what — where — ^how ? Pedro 
explained that we were to put our feet on the shoulders, and 
seat ourselves on the head of one, and hold on with our 
hands to the hair of another just in advance. After a num- 
ber of awkward attempts, which excited great merriment, 
and at the expense of wetted feet, we finally got into position, 
and were duly deposited on shore, amidst a swarm of boys 
and women. Some of the former pressed forward, exclaim- 
ing "California," or "goode by," and then disappeared 
laughing amongst their companions. It was very evident 
that our countrymen had created a great sensation in their 
progress. Probably no equal number of strangers had 
passed through the country for a century. 

Pedro slipped off his clothes, and holding them above his 
head, also came on shore, in ecstatic spirits to find the town 
standing and all safe. He dressed with great expedition, 
and with much dignity put himself in advance, to escort us 
to the town. Not at all sorry to get out of the crowd of 
gazers, we followed along a broad, well-beaten road, with 
elevated foot-paths on each side, in the direction of the city. 
The ascent seemed to be by terraces ; the faces of which were 
paved with stone, and guarded by masonry, to protect them 
from the wasting action of the rains. Palms, plantains, 
orange and other tropical trees lined the road on either hand, 
shut in by a hedge composed of a species of cactus, bearing 
brilliant red flowers. "We met troops of laughing girls, of 
every shade of complexion, from pure white to ebon black, 
fancifully attired, with water-jars on their heads, on their 
way to the lake. They were as straight as arrows, and 
seemed to have an infinite fund of animal spirits. Most of 
them passed us with a side glance, half of curiosity and half 
of mischief, while others more bold, turning full round, ex- 



114 NICAEAGUA — NAERATIVE. 

claimed gayly, " Adios, caballeros!" to wliicli we responded, 
"Adios, mi alma!" mucli to their apparent entertainment. 

It was fall a third of a mile to a steep terrace, ascending 
wMch. we found ourselves amongst the neat cane huts com- 
posing the suburbs of the city, and in which reside the poorer 
portion of the population. Most of these, like those at San 
Carlos and San Juan, were built of canes and thatched with 
palm leaves or grass, while others were plastered with mud, 
and whitewashed. A clump of fruit-trees overshadowed 
each, and within the doors we could discover women spin- 
ning cotton with a little foot-wheel, or engaged in grindijig 
corn for tortillas. On almost every house were one or two 
parrots screaming at each other, or at some awkward looking 
macaw, which waddled clumsily along the crown of the roof. 
Around all, dogs, chickens, and children mingled in perfect 
equality. 

Beyond these huts commenced the city proper. The build- 
ings were of adobes, on cut stone foundations, and roofed with 
tiles. The windows were all balconied, and protected on the 
outside by ornamental iron gratings, and within by painted 
shutters. They were, with scarcely an exception, of one high 
story. The principal entrances were by arched and often 
elaborately ornamented gateways, within which swung mas- 
sive doors, themselves containing smaller ones, all opening 
into the courtyards. Besides these, there were, in some 
instances, other entrances, opening directly into the grand 
sala of the house. The eaves of all the houses project 
several feet beyond the walls, serving the double purpose of 
protecting the latter from the rains, and sheltering the foot 
passenger from the sun and the elements. The side or foot- 
walks were all raised one or two feet above the street, and 
flagged, but barely wide enough to admit persons meeting 
each other to pass. Towards the centre of the town some of 
the streets are paved, like those of our own cities, with this 



ENTRANCE TO GRANADA. 115 

difference, that instead of a convex, tliej present a concave 
surface, so that the gutter is in the centre of the street. 

As we progressed, we met a number of well-dressed peo- 
ple, of both sexes, who, seeing that we were strangers, bowed 
respectfully to us as we passed. Evidences of comfort, not 
to say elegance, now began to appear, and through an 
occasional open door we caught ghmpses of sofas an(^ easy 
chairs, and beds which a Sybarite might envy. Occasionally 
there were niches in the walls of the houses, in which were 
placed crosses, covered with faded flowers ; in some instances 
the crosses were simply fastened to the walls, or planted at 
the corners of the streets. Advancing farther, we found our- 
selves in the shadow of a large and massive stone building, 
with terraces, domes, and towers, half Moresque, and alto- 
gether an architectural incongruity. It appeared to be 
very ancient, and I stopped Pedro, who strode ahead with the 
gait of a conquering hero, to inquire what building it might 
be. He said it was the ancient and now abandoned convent 
of San Francisco, and showed us the gratings through which 
its former inmates had intercourse with the world, and 
pointed out the wooden cross in front, made of cedar from 
Lebanon. I do not know how long Pedro would have run 
on, had I not cut his story short, by sajdng I would hear the 
rest to-morrow. Just then a party of soldiers defiled across 
the street in front of us. They were bare-footed, and wore 
white pantaloons and jackets, with funny little, black caps, 
banded with metal, and having little, round, red cockades 
stuck saucily in front. A dashing young of&cer rode at 
their head, who lifted his hat gracefally to us. It was a 
scouting party just coming in. We followed them with our 
eyes down the street, and saw that sentinels were stationed 
at the corners, but two squares distant, and that the streets 
near the plaza were barricaded with adobes and timbers, with 
a single embrasure in the centre, through which a cannon 
looked g-rimly towaxds us. We now observed that soldiers 



116 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 

were stationed on tlie walls of the convent, and in tlie towers 
of the parocMal cliurcli, wMch liad just come in view. It 
was evident tliat the government and military were on the 
alert, and prepared for any emergency. We found the streets 
more animated, and the houses better built, as we approached 
the centre of the town ; women were moving hither and 
thither with trays, vegetables, bottles, and a hundred other 
commodities on their heads, and babies on their hips, and 
men with slouched hats, and breeches turned up to their 
knees, bare-footed, or wearing sandals, and carrying a large 
machete in their hands, were driving meek-looking horses, 
bearing loads, through the streets before them, or else with 
a long, iron-pointed pole, pricking on little compact oxen, 
fastened by the horns to long, heavy, awkward carts, with 
solid wheels cut from the mahogany tree. Amongst these 
flitted now and then a priest, with his black robe, preposter- 
ous bell-crowned, fur hat, and gaudy umbrella. There were 
quiet senoritas, also, moving slowly along, with a grace and 
dignity of motion seldom or never seen in our cities ; and 
gay fellows on fiery little horses, who dashed at a break-neck 
pace through the streets. It was a novel scene, and we had 
hardly taken in its more striking features, when Pedro 
stopped before a large arched gateway, or portada^ as it is 
called here, and told us this was the " Casa del Senor Don 
Frederico." He unlatched the small door within the larger, 
and entering, we found ourselves in a broad corridor, com- 
pletely surrounding a court, in which were growing a num- 
ber of orange, maranon, and other fruit trees, fragrant 
bushes, and clumps of flowers. On one side was the store, 
filled with bales and boxes, and in front of it were huge 
scales for weighing commodities ; while the sala, dining, and 
private rooms occupied the remaining two sides of the court. 
In one corner of the corridor were two or three movable 
desks, where Don Frederico's children were engaged in their 
afternoon lessons with their tutor, a pale, intellectual look- 



OUR HOST, DON" FREDERICO. 117 

ing young man ; and just beyond, reclining in a hammock, 
was the portly form of Don Frederico himself. Pedro ap- 
proached him, hat in hand, and with profound reverence, 
announced us. Our host immediately rose, and in due 
course I delivered my letters, which were honored in a 
spirit of the most enlarged and liberal hospitality. A part 
of a spacious and commodious house immediately opposite, 
which was occupied by the children of Don Frederico and 
their governess, was at once ordered to be prepared for our 
accommodation, while a couple of carts were despatched to 
the shore for our luggage. Our reception was so warm and 
cordial, that I felt at once perfectly at home, and was de- 
lighted with the neatness and comfort of everything around 
us. Don Frederico was born in Jamaica, but had resided for 
thirty years in the country, where he had married, become a 
citizen, and accumulated a large fortune. Entertaining the 
respect and confidence of all parties, he had passed safely 
through all the troubles to which the country had been sub- 
jected. He seemed very little alarmed at the threatened 
attack on the city, and felt confident that the insurgents 
would ultimately be put down. Still, unless reinforcements 
speedily arrived from the government, he anticipated that 
trouble might ensue, and perhaps an assault be attempted, 
because Somoza was as daring as he was unscrupulous. But 
even then it was only necessary to barricade the doors, and 
every house became a fortress. He had gone through seve- 
ral revolutions, securely locked in, eating and sleeping as 
usual. When the affair was over, he opened the portada 
again, and things went on as before. 

As we had eaten scarcely anything during the day, our 
host gave us a cup of chocolate, pending the preparation of 
dinner. While thus engaged, we were surprised by the ap- 
pearance of an ofS.cer bearing a note from the commandante of 
the Plaza, congratulating us upon our safe arrival, and very 
considerately proposing that some time should be named, 



118 NICARAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 

when "we were recovered from our fatigues, to enable him to 
pay his respects in person. He also placed a guard at our dispo- 
sition, which I of course declined. Hardly had this messenger 
been despatched, before another, from the Prefect of the De- 
partment, made his appearance. The next day at noon was 
named for receptions, and meantime we instructed the por- 
tero or gatekeeper to report us to all visitors as engaged. 

The evening passed delightfully with our host. It was a 
great relief to stretch one's legs once more beneath a table 
spread like our own at home ; a pleasure not slightly en- 
hanced by the presence of entirely new and curious dishes, 
upon the merits of which we successively passed summary, 
and generally favorable, judgments. A gentle shower mean- 
while pattered upon the tiled roofs, cooling and purifying the 
air ; and we experienced, for the . first time, the pleasures 
attending life in a well-appointed residence beneath the 
tropics. After the bell struck eight, we heard every five 
minutes the word '^ Alerte f" caught up in succession by the 
guards, in evidence that they were all awake, and keeping 
a bright lookout. Occasionally the " Quien viveP or chal- 
lenge of the sentinel stationed at the corner of the street be- 
low us, was given with an emphasis which fell startlingly 
upon our unaccustomed ears. Our host was used to it. We 
were really in the midst of war and "its alarums," and felt 
all the better for it. "We retired early to our new quarters, 
which consisted of a large sala, in which were a piano, ma- 
hogany tables and chairs, with sleeping apartments attached. 
Here we found that Ben, with an eye to all our wants, had 
arranged everything necessary to our comfort. Forty nights 
in close, narrow berths, in hammocks, and on the tops of 
boxes and trunks, had qualified us to enjoy the delightfully 
cool and scrupulously neat camas which that evening invited 
us to slumber. I bestowed myself in one without ceremony, 
and in less time than I am writing it, went to sleep, to dream 
of Somoza, storms on the lake, and a thousand incongruous 



FIEST NIGHT IN" GEANADA. 



119 



matters. Nor did I wake until Ben, utterly renovated, and 
looking wonderfully genteel, came to announce that break- 
fast was ready. It was some seconds before I could compre- 
hend clearly where I was ; but once awake, I found myself 
thoroughly refreshed, and ready for any turn of events, — 
breakfast or revolutions. 




THE PLANTAIN TREE. 





ANCIENT VASE.— FKONT AND SIDE VIEWS. 




NICAEAGUA MEAT MARKET. 



CHAPTEE Y. 

RECEPTION- DAT — GENERAL RESPECT AND ADMIRATION FOR THE UNITED STATES — 
AN EVENING RIDE — THE PLAZA — CHURCHES — HOSPITAL — THE " JALTEVA" — 

DESERTED MUNICIPALITY MELANCHOLY RESULTS OF FACTION THE ARSENAL 

NATURAL DEFENCES OF THE CITY "CAMPO SANTO ' AN EX-DIRECTOR AND 

HIS " hacienda" SHORE OF THE LAKE IN THE EVENING OLD CASTLE 

THE " ORACIOn" — ^AN EVENING VISIT TO THE SENORITAS — OPERA AMIDST 
ORANGE GROVES — " ALERTAS" AND " QUIEN VIVAS?" — THE 6RANADINAS AT 
HOME — AN EPISODE ON WOMEN AND DRESS — MR. ESTEVENS — " LOS MALDI- 
TOS INGLESES" — ^A FEMALE ANTIQUARIAN COADJUTOR — " CIGARITAS" — IN- 
DIAN GIRLS — COUNTRYMEN — AN AMERICAN "mEDICo" — NATIVE HOSPITALITY 
TO STRANGERS — THE WAYS INFESTED BY " FACCIOSOS" — AN AMERICAN 
TURNED BACK — EXPECTED ASSAULT ON THE CITY, AND PATRIOTIC RESOLVES 
" TO DIE UNDER THE AMERICAN FLAg" — A NOTE ON HORSES AND SADDLES 

VISIT TO THE CACAO ESTATES OF THE MALACCAS THE CACAO TREE 

DAY-DREAMS AN ADVENTURE ALMOST GRIEVOUS DISAPPOINTMENT SOMOZA, 

THE ROBBER CHIEF OUR ARMORY FEVERISHNESS OF THE PUBLIC MIND 

LIFE UNDER THE TROPICS — A FRIGHTENED AMERICAN, WHO HAD " SEEN SO- 
MOZA," AND HIS ACCOUNT OF THE INTERVIEW — SOMOZa's LOVE FOR THE 

AMERICANS GOOD NEWS FROM LEON APPROACH OF THE GENERAL IN CHIEF, 

AND AN ARMED AMERICAN ESCORT — CONDITION OF PUBLIC AFFAIRS — PRO- 
CLAMATION OF THE SUPREME DIRECTOR DECREES OF THE GOVERNMENT 

OFFICIAL ANNOUNCEMENTS, AND PUBLIC ADDRESSES HOW THEY EXHIBITED 

THE POPULAR FEELING ^NICARAGUAN RHETORIC — DECISIVE MEASURES TO 

PUT DOWN THE INSURGENTS — GENERAL CALL TO ARMS — ^MARTIAL LAW — 
PUBLICATION OF A " BANDa" — GREAT PREPARATIONS TO RECEIVE THE GEN- 
ERAL m CHIEF AND HIS " VETERANOS" — NO FURTHER FEAR OF THE "fAC- 
CIOSOS" — ^A BREAK-NECK RIDE TO THE " LAGUNA DE SALINAs" — A VOLCANIC 

LAKE DESCENT TO THE WATER HOW CAME ALLIGATORS THERE ? NATIVE 

" aguardiente" " NOT BAD TO TAKe" — RETURN TO THE CITY — A RELI- 
GIOUS PROCESSION — THE HOST — ^INCREASING TOLERANCE OF THE PEOPLE — 
PREPARATIONS FOR " LA MANANA." 

At noon, agreeably to appointment, we were waited npon 
by tbe dignitaries of tbe city, and the commander of tbe ga: 



122 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 

rison, together with a large number of the leading inhabitants. 
They all exhibited the same cordiality with the ruder por- 
tion of the population, and a degrep of refinement and cour- 
tesy which would have done credit to more pretending capi- 
tals. We were a little startled by the somewhat exaggerated 
tone of compliment, both in respect to ourselves and our 
country, which ran through their conversation, and which 
seems characteristic of the Spanish people wherever found, 
in the Old World or the New. All concurred in represent- 
ing the present unsettled state of public affairs as in a great 
measure due to foreign intervention and intrigue ; and re- 
ferred to the seizure of San Juan, and the English encroach- 
ments on their territories, in a tone of indignation and re- 
proach, commensurate with the indignity and outrage to 
which they had been subjected. They seemed to entertain 
the highest hopes from the opening of more intimate relations 
with the United States ; but, unacquainted with the nature, 
constitutional powers, and the policy of our government, 
these hopes were, as a matter of course, somewhat vague ; yet 
it was hot unnatural that, distracted within, and subjected to 
unscrupulous aggression from without, the United States 
should be looked to as a conciliator of intestine factions, as a 
friend, and a protector. I was deeply impressed with the 
feeling which they manifested, and was convinced that if 
once treated with consideration, and taught to respect them- 
selves as a nation, there was no reason why the States of the 
Isthmus should not take a respectable rank amongst the re- 
publics of the continent. The interview was highly interest- 
ing, and gave me more elevated views of the temper of the 
people of the country than I had gathered from what had 
been published concerning thein; an impression which a 
farther and more intimate acquaintance only tended to 

confirm. 

Towards evening, in company with Col. Trinidad Salazar, 

die commandant of the Plaza, we took a ride through the 



THE PLAZA — CHURCHES. 123 

city and its environs. We found that with, the exception of 
the Church of La Mercedes, and the Convent of San Francis- 
co, already mentioned, there were few buildings at all re- 
markable or imposing. The Parochial Church, on the plaza, 
is very ancient, and distinguished as containing the bones of 
several of the first bishops of Nicaragua, which was estab- 
lished as a diocess as early as 1532. The interior was far 
from imposing. It had some paintings, too ancient to be dis- 
tinguished, with some indifferent prints of saints, and scenes 
in the life of Christ and the apostles. Upon one side of the 
plaza is the fa9ade of the unfinished church of San Juan de 
Dios, which was designed to be the most beautiful in the city, 
but for some reason was never finished. The fagade is very 
elaborate, and profusely loaded with ornament. It has been 
standing in its present condition for more than a hundred 
years. A hospital has been erected in the area it was intend- 
ed to occupy, which is supported by a small market tax 
and voluntary contributions. Buildings of one or two stories, 
with spacious corridors in front, extend round two sides of 
the square, in which are some of the principal retail " lien- 
das'^ of the city. The wares of the shopkeepers were as con- 
spicuously displayed as in some of the minor streets at home ; 
while in front were the market-women, with fruits, cacao, 
maize, and all the various edibles of the season. These were 
generally placed in baskets, or spread on a white sheet on 
the gTOund, in a style probably very little different from that 
practised by the aborigines at the time of the Conquest. All 
the streets leading from the plaza were barricaded, and we 
found advance posts of troops in every part of the city. 

From the grand plaza we rode through the narrow streets, 
between long rows of substantial houses, in the direction of 
the municipahty of Jalteva.^ Dashing up a broad causeway, 

1 This municipality is mostly made up of Indians. The present name, 
" Jalteva" is probably a corruption of the Indian " Salteba" the name 



124 NICAEAGUA — NAERATIVE. 

witli heavy flanking walls, surmounted by urns, we came at 
once into the second grand plaza. Here we found the build- 
ings more scattered, and of a poorer character ; huts of canes 
alternating with adobe houses and open lots of ground. The 
plaza was deserted, and as we rode along we observed that 
the whole quarter seemed depopulated. We found, upon 
inquiry, that this municipality was the stronghold of the 
"Calandracas," and hereditarily jealous of the city proper. 
This hostility led to the colhsion of which we had heard, 
in which the disaffected party had suffered a defeat ; where- 
upon, either from fear, or with a design of organizing for 
sharper work, they had chiefly fled "aZ monte,^'' to the fields. 
Those who remained, with scarcely an exception, had move(J, 
for greater' security, within the city. The silence and deso- 
lation which reigned in this deserted quarter was a mournftil 
commentary on partisan feuds. A few dogs and unclaimed 
cattle wandered despondingly amongst the houses, as if in 
search of their masters ; but beyond these there were no 
signs of life. 

Passing the Jalteva, we came into the broad open road 
leading to Leon, and soon reached a square compact build- 
ing, which was the arsenal. It was surrounded by a high 
wall, and at the corners were erected towers, looped for 
musketry, each containing a guard of soldiers. A cannon 
looked morosely through the open gateway, around which 
was a company of lancers, just returned from some expedi- 
tion. Their lances, to each of which was hung a little red 
streamer, flashed in the sun as they fell into line on the ap- 
proach of the commandante ; while the guards, on the tap of 
the drum, leaped to their feet, and presented arms. Just 
beyond the arsenal is what the commandante called the 
natural defence of the city. It is a deep, narrow ravine, 

of the aboriginal town which occupied the site of Granada before that 
city was built. 



AN EVENING RIDE. 125 

witli absolutely precipitous walls, worn by tbe rains througli 
the volcanic or calcareous breccia upon wliicli tlie city is 
built. It extends on tkree sides of the town, and can be 
passed only in one or two places, where lateral incli*ned 
planes have been artificially cut from the top to the bottom 
on one side, and from the bottom to the top on the other. It 
is a feature of some importance in calculating the means of 
defending the city, and probably had something to do in de- 
termining its site. 

From the arsenal we turned off to the left, following a 
broad, well-beaten path, which wound beneath a complete 
archway of trees, vines, and flowers, in the direction of the 
" Gampo Santo, ^^ or burial place of the city. This is an area 
of several acres of gTOund in extent, surrounded by a high 
wall of adobes, neatly whitewashed, and entered beneath a 
lofty gateway, surmounted by a cross, and bearing a Latin in- 
scription, which I have forgotten. There was little to see ; 
and, as the gates were shut, we could not enter ; so, turning 
in the direction of the lake, we galloped to the hacienda of 
Don Jose Leon Sandoval, passing on the way, in a pictur- 
esque glen, shadowed over with trees, the " corral " or cattle 
yard of the estate. A brisk ride through the bushes brought 
us to the house, built upon a high terrace, overlooking the 
lake and city, and embowered in palm, maranon, orange, 
and jocote trees. The proprietor was out somewhere on the 
estate, and we started to find him, which we soon succeeded 
in doing. He was mounted on a splendid mule, and just 
returning from inspecting the day's work of the '•'■ mozos,^'' or 
what in New England would be called " hired help." Don 
Jose proved to be a plainly dressed, substantial person, bear- 
ing a close likeness to General Taylor. Upon my mentioning 
the fact, he bowed low, in acknowledgment, and said that he 
knew the General was a farmer-soldier and a citizen-Presi- 
dent ; and he only hoped that the resemblance might extend 
from person, which was of little, to character, which was of 



126 NICAEAGUA — ISTAERATIVE. 

greater, consequence. Don Jose liad once been Director of 
the State, but had resigned the office, preferring, he said, to 
be a good farmer rather than a poor director. We followed 
him over various parts of the estate to his indigo vats and 
drying houses, and to his plantain and cacao walks and corn- 
fields, all of which we found to be in capital order, and bear- 
ing the evidences of intelligence, enterprise, industry, and 
care. 

After a pleasant interview of half an hour, we bade Don 
Jose " luena tarde^'' and descended to the shores of the lake, 
just as the sun was setting, throwing the whole beach in the 
shade, while the fairy "Corales" were swimming in the 
evening light. The shore was ten-fold more animated than 
when we landed the previous day ; men on horseback, 
women on foot, sailors, fishermen, idlers, children, and a 
swarm of water-carriers, mingling together, gave life to the 
scene; while boats and graceful canoes, drawn up on the 
beach, bongos rocking at their anchors outside, the grim old 
fort frowning above, and the green border of trees, with 
bars of sunlight streaming between them, all contributed to 
heighten and give effect to the picture. "We rode up the 
glacis of the old castle, through its broken archway, into its 
elevated area, and looked out beyond the broad and beauti- 
ful lake, upon the distant shores of Chontales, with its earth- 
quake-riven hills, and ragged, volcanic craters. Their rough 
features were brought out sharply and distinctly in the slant- 
ing light which gilded the northern slope of the gigantic 
volcano of Momobacho, while its eastern declivity slept in 
purple shadow. We were absorbed in contemplating one 
by one these varied beauties, when the bells of the city 
struck the hour of the " oracion." In an instant every voice 
was hushed, the horseman reined in his steed, the ropes 
dropped from the hands of the sailor, the sentinel on the 
fort stopped short in his round, even the water-jars were left 
half-filled, while every hat was removed, and every lip 



AN EVENING VISIT. 127 

moved in prayer. The very waves seemed to break more 
gently on the shore, in harmony with the vibrations of the 
distant bells ; while the subdued hum of reverential voices 
filled the pauses between. There was something almost 
magical in this sudden hush of the multitude, and its appar- 
ently entire absorption in devotion, which could not fail 
deeply to impress the stranger witnessing it for the first time. 

No sooner, however, had the bells ceased to toll, and struck 
up the concluding joyful chime, than the crowd on the shore 
resumed its life and gayety, while we put spurs to our horses, 
and dashed through their midst, on our return to the city. 
The commandante and his companions would only leave me 
at my door, where we were saluted by our host with "Saved 
your distance, gentlemen ; dinner is ready !" 

An evening visit to the Senorita Teresa 'finished our first 
entire day in Granada. This young lady had been educated 
in the United States, spoke English very well, and was 
withal a proficient in nausic, — accomplishments which we 
never before learned to estimate at their true value. It was 
worth something to hear well executed passages from fa- 
miliar operas, amidst tangible and not painted orange trees 
and palms, and in an atmosphere really loaded with tropical 
perfumes, instead of the odors of oil-pots and gas-lights. 
Eight o'clock was the signal for general withdrawal from the 
streets, for then commenced the rigors of the military police, 
and the city became at once still and quiet. The occasional 
barking of a dog, the tinkling of a distant guitar, the sough- 
ing of the evening wind amongst the trees of the court-yard, 
the measured tread and graduated " alertas !" of the sentinels, 
were the only interruptions to the almost sepulchral silence. 
While returning to our quarters, we were startled by the 
"Quien vive?" of the sentinel, uttered in a tone absolutely 
ferocious, and as these fellows rarely parleyed long, we 
answered with all expedition, "La Patria," which was fol- 
lowed on the instant by " Que gente ?" " Americanos del 



128 NICAEAGUA — ^NAEEATIVE. 

Norte." This was enougli; these, we found, were magic 
words, which opened every heart and every door in all Nica- 
ragua. They never failed ns. We felt proud to know that 
no such charm attached to "Ingleses," "Alemanes," or 
" Franceses." 

The day following, in accordance with the " costumbres 
del pais," the customs of the country, we returned the visits 
of the preceding day, and began to see more of the domestic 
and social life of the citizens of Grranada. We found the 
residences all comfortable, and many elegant, governed by 
mistresses simple, but gracefal and confiding in their manners. 
They were frank in their conversation, and inquired with 
the utmost naivete whether I was married or intended to be, 
and if the ladies of El ISTorte would probably visit Grranada, 
when the "Yapores grandes," the great steamers, came to 
run to San Juan, and the " Yaporcitas," steameretts, to ply 
on the lake and river. They had heard of a Mr. Estevens, 
(their nearest approach to Stephens,) who had written a book 
about their "pobre pais," their poor country, and were 
anxious to know what he had said of them, and whether our 
people really regarded them as " esclavos y brutos ^in ver- 
guenza," slaves and brutes without shame, as the abominable 
English (los malditos Ingleses) had represented them. They 
were also very anxious to know whether the party of Cali- 
fornians which had passed through were " gente comun," 
common people, or " caballeros," gentlemen; upon which 
point, however, we were diplomatically evasive, for there 
was more in the inquiry than we chose to notice. One lady 
had heard that I was a great antiquarian, and anticipatory 
to my visit, had got together a most incongruous collection 
of curiosities, from " vasos antiguos," fragments of pottery, 
and stone hatchets, down to an extraordinary pair of horn 
' spectacles, and a preposterously distorted liog's hoof, — all of 
which she insisted on sending to my quarters, which she did, 
with some rare birds, and a plate of dulces ! At every house 



LAS GRANADINAS AT HOME. 129 

we found a table spread with wines and sweetmeats, and 
bearing a little silver brazier filled with burning coals, for 
tlie greater convenience of lighting cigars. I excited much 
surprise bj declining to smoke, on the ground that I had 
never done so ; but the ladies insisted on my taking a 
" cigarito," which they said wouldn't injure a new-born babe, 
and paid me the compliment of lighting it with their own 
fair hps, after which it would have been rank treason to 
etiquette, and would have ruined my reputation for gallantry, 
had I refused. I at first endeavored to shirk the responsi- 
bility of smoking by thrusting it into my pocket, but found 
that as soon as one disappeared another was presented, so 
I was obliged " to face the music" in the end. In every 
sala we foimd a large hammock suspended from the walls, 
which was invariably tendered to the visitor, even when 
there were easy chairs and sofas in the room. This is the 
seat of honor. • 

The women of pure Spanish stock are very fair, and have 
the embonpoint which characterizes the sex under the tropics. 
Their dress, except in a few instances where the stiff cos- 
tume of our owTi country had been adopted, was exceedingly 
loose and flowing, leaving the neck and arms exposed. The 
entire dress was often pure white, but generally the skirt, or 
nagua, was of some flowered stuff, in which case the guipil 
{anglice, Vandyke) was white, heavily trimmed with lace 
Satin shppers, a red or purple sash wound loosely round the 
waist, and a rosary sustaining a httle golden cross, with a 
narrow golden band or a string of pearls extending around 
the forehead and binding the hair, which often fell in luxu- 
riant waves upon their shoulders, completed a costume as 
novel as it was graceful and picturesque. To all this, add 
the superior attractions of an oval face, regular features, large 
and lustrous black eyes, small mouth, pearly white teeth, 
and tiny hands and feet, and withal a low but clear voice, 
and the reader has a picture of a Central American lady of 

9 



130 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 

pure stock. Very many of the women have, however, an 
infasion of other families and races, from the Saracen to 
the Indian and the Negro, in every degree of intermixture. 
And as tastes differ, so may opinions as to whether the tinge 
of brown, through which the blood glows with a peach-like 
bloom, in the complexion of the girl who may trace her 
lineage to the caziques upon one side, and the haughty gran- 
dees of Andalusia and Seville on the other, superadded, as 
it usually is, to a greater lightness of figure and animation of 
face, — ^whether this is not a more real beauty than that of 
the fair and more languid senora, whose white and almost 
transparent skin bespeaks a purer ancestry. Nor is the 
Indian girl, with her fall, hthe figure, long, glossy hair, quick 
and mischievous eyes, who walks erect as a grenadier be- 
neath her heavy water-jar, and salutes you in a musical, im- 
pudent voice as you pass — nor is the Indian girl to be 
overlooked in the novel contrasts which the " bello sexo " 
affords in this glorious land of the sun. 

We called upon several French and Italian families resi- 
dent in G-ranada, but found that a long period of naturaliza- 
tion had completely assimilated them to the natives of the 
country, with whom they had largely intermarried. But 
what surprised us most was, that in the best houses it was no 
uncommon thing to find a shop occupying the " esquina," or 
corner, or a room on one side of the court, in which few of 
the ladies thought it derogatory to their dignity or a violation 
of propriety, to preside on any necessary occasion. In fact, 
these shops were generally superintended by the wife of the 
proprietor, seated with her sewing in her lap, in an easy 
chair, behind the low counter. And even in entertaining 
her visitors in the grand sala, it was common for the lady to 
keep an eye to what was passing in the " tienda," through a 
convenient, open door. In the larger establishments, how- 
ever, there exists all the paraphernalia of clerks and attend- 
ants which we find at home. 



THE BOBBER CHIEFTAIN. 131 

When we returned from our visits, we found a party of 
three Americans waiting for us. One was Dr. S., who had 
resided for many years in the country, where he held the 
first place as a " medico," and was a universal favorite 
amongst all classes of the people. By him we were intro- 
duced to the others, both of whom had come out with the 
company of Californians to which I have alluded. Mr. P., 
who was to have acted as engineer of the preposterous craft 
which was anchored off the Castillo, was reduced by illness, 
and being unable to accompany the party, had abandoned 
it, and was thus far on his return to the United States ; 
but sick and destitute, was now anxiously awaiting my arri- 
val, to procure the means of reaching home. He, however, 
was comfortably situated, having been generously and hos- 
pitably received by Senor Lacayo, a prominent native mer- 
chant, who had, in the current phrase of the country, placed 
"his house at the disposition" of the stranger. The third 
person was a young physician from New Haven, from whom 
we learned that the Cahfornians were still detained at Leon 
and Chinandega, waiting for a vessel to take them off, in 
great impatience and discontent. Wearied of the delays, 
this gentleman had returned on a fljring visit to Granada, 
where he had been staying for a fortnight. Meantime, the 
disturbances in the country had come to a crisis, and the day 
of our arrival he had attempted to return to Leon, but 
was turned back by armed parties on the road, who gave 
him the unsolicited pleasure of looking down their presented 
musket-barrels, by way of enforcing their wishes. The 
doctor, who had met Somoza in times past, and entertained 
a good deal of faith in his personal influence and prowess, 
informed us that the rebel chief had once been imprisoned 
in Granada, and owed it a special spite. He had sworn to 
burn the city, and the doctor was of opinion that he would 
keep his word. He thought we might, any night, have an 
attack ; but felt confident that foreigners, keeping out of the 



132 NICAHAGUA — ^NAREATIVE. 

way, woTild sustain no injm-y. At any rate, if the worst 
came to the worst, we could all collect together, under the 
American flag, and between revolvers, rifles, and what not 
new invention, make a respectable fight against the poorly 
armed assailants. And by way of encouragement, the doctor 
gave us an animated account of a party of foreigners, but five 
or six in number, who some years before had sustained a siege 
of three days, in this very city, and kept their assailants at 
bay, until they were dispersed by the troops of the govern- 
ment. 

I had arranged that afternoon to ride to the cacao estates 
called the " Malaccas," distant about five miles from Grrana- 
da ; and although the city was full of stories about the " fac- 
ciosos" who infested the country, I persisted in my determi- 
nation to go. My companions thought they could entertain 
themselves very well in the city; so I armed Ben, and 
with an English Creole merchant resident here, who kindly 
furnished horses, started for the Malaccas. We had already 
discovered that the horses of Nicaragua were of the Arabian 
stock ; and although like the Arab horses small, they were 
compact, fleet, good tempered, spirited, and of excellent bot- 
tom. As all travelhng here is performed on horseback 
or on mules, great care is used in breaking and training 
saddle beasts, while their price depends less upon their 
beauty than upon their training. They are all taught 
a rapid but exceedingly easy gait, between trotting and 
pacing, called the paso-trote. A well-trained horse strikes at 
once into this gait, and keeps it steadily from morning to 
night. I have ridden them fi:om twenty to forty miles at a 
heat, without once breaking the pace, and with less fatigue 
than would be occasioned in riding the best saddle-horses in 
the United States for a distance of five miles. At this gait 
the horse gets over the level roads of Nicaragua, at from 
six to eight miles the hour. The same animal is fre- 
quently taught several gaits, and may be forced into one 



HOKSES AND HOESEMEN. 133 

or the other by a peculiar pressure on the bit, which is very 
different from those used in the United States, and gives the 
most perfect control of the animal to the rider. Besides the 
paso-trote, which may be called the ordinary gait, the horses 
are taught an easy amble, the paso-Ua7io, which is very rapid, 
and yet so gentle that, as observed by a recent Peruvian 
traveller, the rider may carry a cup of water in his hand 
without spilling a drop, while going at the rate of six miles 
an hour. There are also other gaits taught to different 
horses, which have each their advocates ; among them the 
paso-portanie, in which the horse raises the fore and hind foot 
of each side simultaneously, causing a rapid see-saw motion, 
not agreeable to riders generally. 

The saddles are modifications of the Mexican saddle, with 
high peaks, over which are thrown gaudily colored sheep- 
skins, here called " pillons," or " pellons." The equipment is 
not complete without a pair of holsters and pistols ; and a 
Mcaraguan " caballero" is never so much in his element as 
when mounted on a spirited, champing horse, with a fanciful 
"pillon," jingling bit, and portentous spurs, his sombrero, 
covered with oiled silk, set jauntily on the side of his head, 
with a senora or two in a neighboring balcony to whom he 
may lift his hat as he passes by. The ordinary saddle, or 
" albarda," is a very cheap affair, and will hardly admit of a 
description which shall be comprehensible to the uninitiated 
reader. It is sometimes used from preference, but my expe- 
rience would never lead me to recommend it to any but an 
inveterate enemy. 

The road to the Malaccas passed through an unbroken 
forest, into which we struck almost as soon as we left the 
city. It was level, completely arched over with trees, whose 
dense foliage shuts off the sun ; while cactuses, and shrubs 
whose fragrant flowers almost compensated for the thorns 
which pricked one's legs, and scratched one's hands in 
endeavoring to pluck them, fenced in the path with a wall of 



134 mCAEAGUA — ^NAEEATIVE. 

verdure. Here and there we cauglit glimpses of the lake 
througli a vista of trees, wliile at intervals, narrow, well- 
beaten paths branched off to the "hattos" and haciendas 
which were scattered over the country, away from the prin- 
cipal thoroughfares. We met men and boys driving or 
riding mules loaded with corn, socafe (grass), fruits, wood, 
and all the various articles of common use in the city, and 
occasionally a woman going in with a basket of chickens, 
sausages, coffee, or cacao, to be offered the next morning in 
the market. The entire stock, in some instances, was hardly 
worth a medio (sixpence), but this, it should be remembered, 
is no insignificant sum, in a country where a rial (twelve 
and a half cents) is the daily wages of a working man. All 
these people bowed with the grace of courtiers as we rode 
by ; for all, from the highest to the lowest, from the little 
Indian boy who clasps his hands before him and says " buena 
dia, senor," to the lady who inclines her fan to her lips in 
tioken of recognition, have an apparently instinctive sense of 
politeness. 

After riding some miles, we came to open fields, and passed 
by several fine estates surrounded by ditches and cactus 
fences in fall bloom. The fourth was that which we came 
specially to visit. A man opened the gate, and we rode in 
and dismounted under the corridor of the house, which was 
a large, square structure, built of adobes, and tiled. The 
proprietor was not at home, and the family, in the unsettled 
state of the country, had retired to the city. We were nev- 
ertheless received with the greatest civility by the mayor- 
domo, who insisted that we were hot and thirsty, and wanted 
" algo fresco^'' and incontinently despatched a boy to get 
some fresh cocoa-nuts, the milk of which, when the nut is 
not too much matured, is transparent as water, and makes a 
cool and delightful beverage, — especially when a drop of 
brandy is mixed in "to takeoff the edge," and prevent 
fevers ! The mayor-domo complained loudly of the condi- 



THE MALACCAS — CACAO ESTATES. I35 

tiou of public affairs ; now was tlie time for collecting the 
cacao, but no men were to be had ; a few of those who had 
been employed on the estate were implicated in the insurrec- 
tion, others had been pressed into the army, and still others 
had fled to the seclusion of the fields, to avoid the same fate. 
He had only half a dozen boys and some women to assist 
him, and they were " sin valor, ninquno," of no account. He 
showed us a large square space where the ground was beaten 
hard and swept clean, in which the nuts, after being removed 
from the husks, were spread on skins to dry. They required 
to be turned often to prevent moulding, and after becoming 
thoroughly dry, had to be carefully assorted, one by one, and 
packed in skins. 

After resting awhile, we mounted again, and riding through 
a long gravelled walk, completely fenced in and arched over 
by magnificent mango trees, now literally golden with fruit, 
and through a vista of orange trees beyond, flanked by maran- 
ons, we entered the cacao plantation. It is difiicult to de- 
scribe these plantations ; they more resemble beautiful parks 
of large trees, with broad walks running in every direction, 
all kept scrupulously neat and clean, than anything else in 
the United States with which they can be compared. The 
tree producing the fruit is known to botanists by the generic 
name of Theobroma^ from the Greek, and signifying food for 
a god. It seldom rises higher than twenty feet ; its leaves 
are large, oblong, and pointed, somewhat resembling those of 
the cherry tree, but infinitely larger ; flowers small, and of a 
pale red color : they are surrounded by oval-pointed pods, 
grooved like a musk-melon, although much smaller ; the nuts 
are very numerous, some pods containing as many as fifty ; 
it produces two crops a-year, but is never without some pods 
on it. The trees are planted about fourteen feet apart, in a 
good soil. It is peculiarly necessary to defend this tree from 
the scorching rays of the sun, and at the same time sufficient 
warmth should be afforded for vegetation ; this is done by 



136 NICARAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 

shading it witli tlie plantain tree and tlie Er jtlirina. As tlie 
cacao advances in size, tlie plantain is cut down, the Ery- 
thrina, or coral tree^ or as it is sometimes called '■'■cacao 
madrej''' mother of the cacao, having attained sufficient height 
to protect it from the sun. It begins to bear at seven years 
old, and comes to perfection in about fifteen years. The 
coral tree grows to about the height of sixty feet, and entirely 
drops its leaves (in Nicaragua) about the end of March and 
beginning of April, and then becomes covered with flowers 
of a bright crimson, and shaped like a cimetar. At this sea- 
son an extensive plain, covered with cacao plantations, is a 
magnificent object, when viewed from a height. The tops of 
the far-stretching forests of Erythrina then present the ap- 
pearance of being clothed with flames. The cacao, it may 
be added, is indigenous to America, and became early an 
article of general consumption by the Spanish Americans, as 
it had been of the Indians from time immemorial. Subse- 
quently to the Discovery it was introduced into the Canary 
and Phillipine islands by the Spaniards. It was called tlalca- 
cahuatl by the ancient Mexicans; amongst whom, as also 
among the natives of Central America, New Grranada, and 
Peru, it was used as money, or a medium of exchange. It is 
still used as such in the markets of the cities of Grranada and 
Leon. One hundred and fifty of the nuts were formerly 
valued a,t a dollar, which is, I believe, their present valua- 
tion. The cacao of Mcaragua is regarded as second to none, 
unless to that of Soconusco, which, during the Spanish do- 
minion, was a monopoly of the crown. It is almost entirely 
consumed in the country, where it commands double the 
price of the Guayaquil, that which usually reaches the United 
States.^ The taste for chocolate grows with its use, and 

^ Grreat confusion exists in the popular mind in respect to Gocoa, Cacao, 
and Coca, which are very generally confounded with each other, although 
differing as widely as almost any three products which it is possible to 
mention. Gocoa is the name given to a species of palm, producing the 



COCOA — CACAO — COCA. 137 

hardly any person resides under tlie tropics for any length of 
time, to whom it does not become more an article of necessi- 
ty than luxury. " He who has drunk one cup," says Cortez, in 
one of his letters, " can travel a whole day without any other 
food, especially in very hot chmates ; for chocolate is, by its 
nature, cold and refreshing." And the quaint old traveller 
in Central America, Gage, devotes a whole chapter to its 
praise, the manner of its use, and its effects on the human 
system. He asserts that chocolate "is an Indian name, com- 
pounded from atl, which in the Mexican language signifies 
water^ and choco-choco-choco^ the sound which water makes 
when stirred in a cup." He claims for it a most healthful 
influence, and bears his testimony as follows : " For myself, 
I must say, I used it for twelve years constantly, drinking one 
cup in the morning, another yet before dinner, between nine 
and ten of the clock ; another within an hour or two after 
dinner, and another between four and five in the afternoon ; 
and when I purposed to sit up late to study, I would take 
another cup about seven or eight at night, which would keep 

cocoa-nut, which is too ■well known to need description. Cacao^ the fruit 
of the cacao-tree, (Theohroma cacao,) described in the text. This fruit is 
described in the scientific books " as a large coriaceous capsule, haying 
nearly the form of a cucumber, from the seeds of which the buttery and 
slightly bitter substance called cacao, or chocolate, is prepared." Ooca is 
the name given to a shrnh, (Mryihroxylon coca,) which grows on the eastern 
dechvities of the Andes of Peru and Bohvia ; and is, to the natives of those 
countries, what opium and betel are to those of Southern Asia. Its leaves, 
which are chewed by the Indians, have such an effect in allaying hunger 
and thirst, that those who use them can subsist several days without any 
other nourishment. The shrub grows about six feet in height, with bright 
green leaves and white blossoms. When the leaves are ripe, that is to 
say, when they crack on being bent, they are gathered and dried. They 
are chewed or eaten with a httle unslacked Ume, to give them a rehsh. 
When constantly used, they produce some of the deleterious effects of 
opium. 



138 NICABAGUA — ^NAKEATIYE. 

me waking till about midniglit. And if by cbance I did ne- 
glect any of these accustomed hours, I presently found my 
stomach fainty. And with this custom I hved for twelve 
years in these parts, healthy, without any obstructions, or 
oppilations ; not knowing what either Fever or Ague was." 
He, however, warns against the use of the cacao before pre- 
paration, for the reason that the simple nut, when eaten, as 
it often is by the Creole and Indian women, " doth notably 
obstruct and cause stoppings, and makes them look of a pale 
and earthy color, as do those that eat earthenware and pieces 
of lime wall."^ 

As I have already said, the cacao tree is so delicate, and so 
sensitive to exposure, that great care is required to preserve 
it during the early periods of its growth. It commences 
to bear in seven or eight years, and continues productive 
for from thirty to fifty years. Capital and time are there- 
fore required to start an estate ; but once established, it is 
easily enlarged by annual additions. One man, it is calcu- 

^ After giving expression to Ms enthusiasm on the subject of Cacao, 
Grage becomes philosophical, and discourses thus lucidly upon what, in 
these transcendental days, would be called "the dual nature, harmoniously 
blended," of this wonderful product : 

"Cacao, although a Simple, contains the Quality of the four Elements; 
yet it is held to be cold and dry, ci prcedomino. It is also in the sub- 
stance that rules these two Quahties, restringent and obstructive, of the 
Nature of the Element of the Earth. And as it is thus a mixed and not a 
Simple Element, it hath parts correspondent to the rest of the Elements ; 
and particularly it partakes of those which correspond with the Element 
of Air, — that is, heat and moisture, which are governed by unctuous parts; 
there being drawn out of the cacao much Butter, which I have often seen 
drawn out of it by the Criohan women to oint their faces. * * And 
this is very conformable to reason, if we consider that every Element, be 
it never so simple, begets and produceth in the hver four Humors, not 
only differing in temper but substance ; and begets more or less of that 
Humor, according as the Element hath more or fewer parts corresponding 
to the substance of that humor which is most ingendered." — A New Stir- 
vey of the West Indies, p. 239. 



CULTIVATION OF THE CACAO, 139 

lated, is able to take care of a thousand trees, and harvest 
their crop. As a consequence, cacao estates are more valu- 
able than those of sugar, indigo, cotton, or cochineal. A 
good plantation, with fair attention, will yield an average 
annual product of twenty ounces of cacao to every tree, which 
for one thousand trees equals twelve hundred pounds. At 
the usual market rate of twenty-five dollars the quintal, this 
would give three hundred dollars per annum to each thou- 
sand trees and each laborer. Owing to a variety of causes, — 
some of the most important are obvious enough from what I 
have abeady said, — this yield is seldom obtained in Nicara- 
gua ; but may be when order is fully restored, and labor and 
its wages properly organized. No means exist for obtaining 
even an approximate estimate of this branch of production 
in Nicaragua, and I shall not therefore attempt to present 
any statistics on the subject, but proceed with my narrative. 

I was delighted with the plantation, and after riding for 
an hour, until we got bewildered amongst the cross-walks 
and avenues, we began to thread our course back again. 
This was no easy matter, and we marched and counter- 
marched for a long time before we struck the right path. 
This will not appear so surprising when I say that the plan- 
tation contained ninety-five thousand trees, which are valued 
at one dollar each. 

Once in the main road, we paced slowly along on our return 
to the city, with that feeling of satisfaction which is always 
experienced after visiting an object that more than realizes 
the anticipation. I began to indulge the pleasing fancy that 
I might yet come to have a cacao plantation, which would 
be just the thing for a student or a man who loved his ease. 
It would require no expensive machinery, no long practice 
in manipulation of any kind ; a boy could go through all the 
simple processes, and the whole might be left for a year or 
two without sufiering the deterioration of sugar, rice, or 
cotton plantations. The summers in El Norte, and the win- 



140 FICAEAGUA — NAEEATIVE. 

ters liere amidst the cacao and orange, with only a few davs 
of steaming between, — of course the thing was feasible. 

While indulging such reveries as these, my horse, which 
was the fastest walker, had carried me some distance ahead 
of my companion, when turning a sharp corner, I came 
abruptly upon a party of armed men, reclining in easy atti- 
tudes under a large cebia tre6. I at once drew rein, and 
they as suddenly leaped to their feet and formed in line. 
My companion at that moment coming up, hurried past me, 
in evident anxiety as to the character of the party, and I fol- 
lowed close at his heels. One who seemed to be in command, 
stepped forward as we approached, exclaiming, "Quien 
vive ?" " Amigos," friends, replied my companion, cautiously 
avoiding the pass- word of the government, until he knew 
whether the party was a strolling band of "facciosos," or 
regular troops of the State. Meantime we continued to 
approach, as if in perfect confidence, until ordered to stop 
by the person in authority, who advanced a few steps and 
scrutinized us for some moments, and then, with the air of a 
man satisfied, motioned us to go on. As I passed, he lifted 
his hat in recognition, exclaiming, " Adios, Senor Ministro !" 

It was a disguised scout from the garrison, on the lookout 
for a party of insurgents which was reported to be commit- 
ting some excesses in this direction. I had been quite ex- 
cited with the prospect of an adventure, and even indulged 
a vague hope that the one in command might prove to be 
Somoza himself; the upshot was, therefore, something of a 
disappointment. An interview with the robber chief, whose 
name carried terror through the whole country, and a hand- 
some villain withal, — what a paragraph it would have made 
in these "Incidents of Travel !" I was clearly not in luck, 
but comforted myself with the possibility of a night assault 
upon the city, in anticipation of which Ben daily examined 
our armory, re-capped each formidable Colt, and had even 
prepared the proper timbers for barricading our house at a 



ALARMS AND SUSPENSE. 141 

moment's notice. I tried to work myself into a state of ex- 
citement, anxiety, and suspense, but it was of no use ; we ate 
and drank inordinately, slept soundly, and altogether voted 
insurrections to be liumbugs and bores. 

There was great anxiety for the arrival of the commander- 
in-chief of the forces of the State, General Munoz, with rein- 
forcements, and we were amused for a week with rumors 
that he had just started from Leon with a thousand men, — 
was within two days' march, — :and then that he had not 
started at all, that there was trouble in other departments, — 
in short, the city was in a fever, and fall of reports ; to 
which, after a few days, we ceased to listen, or listened only 
to laugh at them. We almost concurred with the Senorita 
Teresa in the wish that Somoza or Greneral Munoz would 
come, — she didn't care much which ; for in either case this 
chronic state of alarm would be terminated. Upon the 
whole, she would rather prefer that the Greneral should 
arrive, for he was the most polished man in the country, and 
withal would bring his military band, and then there would 
be no end to the evening music in the plaza, and the " tertu- 
lias " and balls afterwards ! 

Between baths in the lake at early dawn, delicious snoozes 
in hammocks at noon, rides on the beach in the evening, 
dinners, visits, and a general overhauling of books, papers, 
and baggage, time passed rapidly and pleasantly enough for 
a week. During that period, I had put our sick countryman 
in funds, and he had started from Los Cocos, at the head of 
the lake, in a bongo owned at San Juan, for that port, there 
to wait a vessel for the United States. He came one after- 
noon to bid us good-bye, and as I looked in his pale face, 
momentarily flushed with the excitement of starting for 
home and friends, and heard his low, weak voice, I could not 
help thinking that the poor fellow would never reach his 
native land, and little supposed then that I should ever see 
him or hear from him again. But what was our surprise 



142 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 

wlien, some five or six days thereafter, lie came trotting into 
tlie court on a sorrj mule, and in most woful plight. His 
eyes were very large, and his whole appearance that of a 
man who bears important news. He did not wait to be 
questioned, but started off at once with "I've seen him, I've 
seen Somoza !" His voice had all come back again. We 
got the whole of the story directly, told with a naivete and 
earnestness which in themselves, apart from the incidents, 
were convulsing. He had embarked in a small bongo, with 
a colored gentleman, his wife, and two children, as passen- 
gers, — catalogued in the recital as "an old nigger, a fat 
wench, and two naked picaninnies." The narrow chopa he 
had the satisfaction of sharing with these pleasant compan- 
ions ; but after one night's trial, he had arranged . that he 
might occupy it alone in the afternoons, on condition that 
his fellow-passengers should have exclusive possession of it 
the rest of the time. The second night, therefore, he watched 
the stars and kicked his heels in the bow, and had only just 
commenced his afternoon's lease on the succeeding day, and 
began dreaming of home, when he was aroused by a great 
commotion and loud words. He found the sails all taken in, 
a boat full of armed men, with a swivel at the bow, along- 
side, and a number of others similarly manned close by. 
His colored companion was dumb, and of a dull ashy color, 
while the spouse, with a child in each arm, was prone and 
sobbing in the bottom of the boat. The crew were in a like 
plight, their teeth fairly chattering with alarm. Standing 
beside the mast was a tall, graceful man, with a feather in 
his hat, a red Spanish cloak hanging over one shoulder, a 
brace of naked pistols stuck in his belt, and a drawn sword 
in his hand, with its point resting on the rower's seat beside 
him, — ^who was questioning the trembling patron, with bent 
brow and eagle eyes, in a tone which our friend said would 
have drawn the truth from a stone. He comprehended at 
once that this was Somoza, and at first had a notion of taking 



AN INTERVIEW WITH SOMOZA. 143 

.a shot at Mm, but tlionglit better of it on tlie wbole, and con- 
cluded to -watch the turn of events, and so lay down again. 
The questioning was kept up for a very long time, as it 
appeared to him, while pretending to be asleep, but neverthe- 
less keeping a sharp lookout. When he had finished, 
Somoza gave some order to his men, and stepped towards 
the chopa. Our poor friend thought it all up with him, but 
the insurgent chief only stooped down and took his arm, ex- 
claiming, with a smile, in broken English, " How do, me 
amigo Americano?" Grreatly relieved, our friend got up, 
whereupon Somoza dropped his sword, and throwing his 
arms around him, gave him an embrace, la Espanola^ which 
made his back ache even now to think of. This was repeated 
several times, until the pain, overcoming all alarm, he cried 
in very agony, " No mas, senor, no mas I" No more, sir, no 
more ! But this infliction only terminated to give place to 
another ; for, taking both of our friend's hands in his own, 
with the gripe of a vice, he shook them until his arms were 
on the point of leaving his shoulders ; dehvering, meantime, 
an energetic oration, perfectly unintelligible to his auditor, 
who could only ejaculate, in broken syllables, " Si, senor ! si, 
si, senor ! !" yes, sir! yes, yes sir! !" This finished, Somoza 
took a splendid ring from his finger, and insisted on placing 
it on the hand of our friend, who, however, looking upon it 
in the double light of stolen property and a bribe, sturdily 
refused to accept it. He gathered that Somoza was going to 
attack San Carlos, and thus get possession of the arms and 
ammunition stored there, and of which he stood in much 
need. Somoza parted from him with much kindness, and 
after giving some orders in a threatening tone to the patron, 
retired to his own boat ; whereupon the patron and his crew 
picked up their oars and pulled like mad, on the back track 
towards Granada. The last glimpse that was had of Somoza, 
he was standing in the stern of his boat, conspicuous amongst 



144 NICAEAGTJA — ^NAERATIVE. 

his half-naked men, from his red cloak and dancing plume, 
worn after the fashion of the mailed conquistadors. 

Somoza, we afterwards learned, affected great attachment 
to the Americans, and at an early stage of his operations, 
had sent a courier- to 6ur Consul, bearing a letter fall of 
assurances of good feeling, and expressing his determination 
after "regulating the Grovernment," of proceeding to Saa 
Juan to expel the English " ladrones." He was neverthe- 
less accused of being in the English interest, and acting 
directly or indirectly under British instigation. 

I have, in a preceding chapter, anticipated the result of 
Somoza's visit to San Carlos, in its capture and that of our fat 
friend the commandante. The capture was made without 
firing a gun, nor was it attended with excesses of any kind. 

With the information thus obtained of the whereabouts 
and destination of Somoza, the long-expected attack on the 
city receded in the distant perspective, and I resolved to pro- 
ceed at once to Leon, especially as I began to entertain sus- 
picions that the obstacles in the way had been magnified with 
a view of keeping us in Grranada as pledges for its safety. 
That afternoon, however, a courier, which I had despatched 
to Leon, returned, bringing positive intelligence that Greneral 
Munoz was on the road, and at that moment at the large 
Indian town of Masaya, half a day's march distant, where he 
had arrested a number of persons implicated in the insurrec- 
tion, and, in virtue of extraordinary powers, conceded by 
Government, was engaged in trying them by the summary 
process of martial law. He brought advices from Mr. Consul 
Livingston, that a party of twenty-five volunteers from among 
the Califomians stopping in Leon had been furnished with 
horses by the Government, and would set out in a day or 
two for Granada, to escort the Legation to the capital. He 
also brought a number of the Governmental decrees and pro- 
clamations, showing that the state authorities were taking the 



ACTION OF THE GOVERNMENT. 145 

most efficient means in tlieir power to put down tlie insur- 
gents and restore the peace of the State. Perhaps the mode 
.of precedure cannot be better shown than by the following 
proclamations, decrees, and announcements, from the of6.cial 
bulletins, which will also serve to give an insight into the 
nature of the troubles which afflicted the State, and illustrate 
the style of composition, and the character of the appeals 
made use of by those in public station. The latter were 
of necessity adapted to touch the popular mind, and must 
therefore, give us some idea of its bent, the principles which 
it regarded as most important to be sustained, and the dangers 
most essential to be arrested. I have already intimated that 
the existing troubles had their primary origin in the viru- 
lence of the parties which divided the State ; but that the 
proximate cause of the insurrection was the malefactor, So- 
moza, who had gathered a considerable number of reckless 
characters around him, and set all law at defiance. At first, 
and until overt acts were committed, such was the strength 
of party feeling, it is not impossible that the opposition to 
the Government was disposed to regard the movements of 
Somoza with indulgence, if not positive favor. But when it 
became apparent that his blows were aimed at all order, and 
that his real objects were revenge and plunder, party distinc- 
tions were forgotten ; the opposition no longer looked upon 
his acts in the simple light of being embarrassing to the Gov- 
ernment, but as directed against themselves and the body 
politic, and, forgetting all their previous predilections, heart- 
ily seconded the measures which were adopted to restore the 
public peace. 

In one of the public papers of the time it was said : 

" In every republic, parties have always existed, and aWays will exist 
It is right and necessary that they should, in order to act as checks one on 
the other, and thus protect the pubhc welfare. Honestly differing in 
their views of certain measures of national policy, and in the decision of 
which every citizen must feel the deepest interest-, we have long had, in 

10 



146 NICARAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 

Nicaragua, two parties, bearing the somewhat extraordinary names 0/ 
' Tvmhucos and ' Cahndracas.' So far from regarding this circmnstance 
as a thing to be deplored, the well-wishers of the State have witnessed 
it with satisfaction, as showing that the people at large comprehended 
the nature of repubUcan institutions, and the necessity of deciding for 
themselves, upon whatever, of a public nature, might affect them or their 
interests. "We have seen one of these parties, after a long struggle, in 
which arguments were substituted for bayonets, and ballots for buUets, 
succeeding the other, and reforming the fundamental law of the State, 
while the other, as in duty bound, yielded peaceably to the will of the 
majority. The laborer pursued his avocations undisturbed while this 
peaceable revolution was going on ; the merchant continued his legiti- 
mate business ; no blood was spilled, no women widowed, or children 
rendered fatherless. 

" The monstrous faction which now threatens the State belongs to no 
party ; it is a Vandalic horde, aiming, by vile means, at unwarrantable 
ends, and directing its efforts against the G-overnment, not because of the 
policy of that Grovernment, but because it is charged with the execution 
and vindication of the laws which this faction would annul and destroy ! 
It is made up of enemies of order, of hberty, and of humanity. Let not 
former differences of opinion blind men to the real enormity of the insur- 
rection ; let no party favor this attempt to overturn not only the existing, 
but all governments, and plant anarchy in the soil of peace. When the 
country is threatened, we are neither ' Timbucos' nor ' Calandracas,' but 
Nicaraguans. We cannot beheve that this faction, which has no princi- 
ples, no pohcy, no moral incentives to action, and whose constant object 
is the destruction of society, can find sympathy or support, except amongst 
assassins and robbers." 

The first step taken by tlie Government, upon ascertaining 
the formidable character of the insurrection, is indicated 
belo-w. 

OFFICIAL BULLETIN. 

Leon, June 19, 1849. 
" No man shall be molested or persecuted on account of his opinions, of whatever 
nature they may be, provided that he does not by any overt act infringe the laws." 
— Art- 30 of the Constitution. 

" Every one has seen with horror the devastation which has followed 
in the steps of the barbarous Bernabe Somoza since his arrival in the 



ACTION OF THE GOVERNMENT. 147 

town of St. Greorge, in the Department Meridional. He burned and 
desolated its haciendas, and gave the city of Eivas to the flames, at the 
same time that, with the horde that follows him, he attacked the garrison 
of the line, and the various patriots assembled there, who, after having 
sustained a siege of eleven days, in the most heroic manner, were com- 
pelled to retreat ; — therefore, the Supreme Government, in discharge oi 
the duties imposed upon it by humanity, rehgion, and the country, has 
issued the following extraordinary decrees : 

" God, Union, Liberty." 

Department of War; 
House op the Government, Leon, June 19, 1849. 
" To the General-m- Ohief, Commanding the Regular Forces of the State : 

" Sir : The Supreme Executive Power has ordered me to communicate 
to you the following decrees for execution : BUITEAGO." 

No. 1. 
" It having become necessary to the well-being of the State to put an 
end to the anarchical movements which threaten, with destruction the 
persons and properties of the Departments Oriental and Meridional, and 
which now disturb the general peace, therefore,*in view of this peremptory 
exigency, and in Qrder to save the liberty of the people, and to put the 
State in a position to defend its independence and integrity, now placed 
in extreme danger by the refusal of the British Government to listen to 
our claims of redress against the usurpation of the most precious part of 
our territories, in conformity with Art. 48, Sec. 9, of the Constitution, it 
has been 9,nd is 

DECREED : 

" Art. 1. AH citizens of Nicaragua, from the ages of sixteen to fifty years, 
are required by the fundamental law to take up arms in support of the 
public order and territorial integrity of the State, excepting only the 
clergy, and those who, by some physical defect, are absolutely incapaci- 
tated for military service. 

" Art. 2. They are therefore required to present themselves for enrolment, 
with their equipments, and all horses and mules which they may pos- 

• sess, before the chief of the forces of the line in this city, or before the 
legionary commanders in the departments. 

" Art. 3. The horses and mules as aforesaid of those who do not present 
tliemselves, are liable to be seized by detachments of troops sent out for 



148 NIOAEAGUA — NAERATIVE. 

that purpose, and the owners will incur the penalty, in case they are 
lost, of being excluded from recovering their value, as provided by Art. 
173, Sec. 1, of the Constitution, besides being themselves subject to 
the penalties prescribed by Art. 104 of the penal code. 
" Art. 4 The forces which may be enrolled shall hold themselves in 
readiness to move whenever and wherever required. 
"Given in Leon thi?; 19th of June, 1849. 

"NORBERTO RAMIREZ." 

No. 2. 
"To save the State from anarchy, and to enable it to defend its terri- 
torial integrity, in compliance with duty, and in use of constitutional 
power, it is 

DECREED: 

Art. 1. That the General in Chief, Don Jose Trinidad Munoz, is 
fuUy authorized to put an end to the existing insurrection, and to restore 
complete order, as also to place the State in an attitude to defend its 
territorial integrity ; his orders are therefore to be punctually executed 
by the legionary commanders, and exactly comphed with by the com- 
missaries, not only for ordinary but extraordinary expenses. 

Given in Leon, this 19th of June, 1849. 

NORBERTO RAMIREZ. 

Decrees were also issued for tlie collection of an extraordi- 
nary tax, and requiring persons entering tlie various towns 
to procure passports. Tlie proclamation of tlie Supreme Di- 
rector, Eamirez, was a well written appeal to tlie patriotism 
of the people, concluding as follows : 

" No good object can be attained by disturbing the public peace, and 
the misguided men who have joined in these lawless movements forget 
that their interests are identical with those of all other citizens ; forget 
that their conduct must destroy every social and civil privilege, and 
plunge society into its savage, chaotic state, when might shall subvert 
right ; and when life, Hberty, nor possessions are secure. Hatred begets 
hatred, and vengeance, vengeance ; and they who strike against the 
wholesome restraints of law, will themselves be stricken down in its fall. 

" People of Nicaragua, by your choice I have been placed in a position 
where my authority is individually greater than yours ; but your blood 



APPEALS OF THE GOVERNMENT. 149 

has as much value as mine ; my interests are yours, and those of the 
nation. Let me then, both as a magistrate and a citizen, conjure you, in 
the name of humanity, by our hopes of future prosperity, and on behalf 
of our country, to rally to the support of the constitution and the laws, 
and thus confound our enemies, and reahze the blessings which shall 
flow from peace and the maintenance of public order." 

The address of tlie General in Chief of the State to his 
soldiers, famishes a very favorable example of the style of 
such documents in Central America; and its introduction 
will, in this respect at least, prove interesting. 

" Soldiers I 

" The honored standard of order, which you have hitherto so gloriously 
sustained; is again attacked. Forty intrepid men of your number covered 
themselves with glory, in maintaining the city of Rivas against overwhelming 
numbers ; yielding only with their lives the trust confided to their care. 
Since their lamented fall, over which a bereaved country is still weeping, 
there has been no check on the wanton atrocities of the robbers and 
Vandals who overcame them. The devastation which moves with the 
insurgents will extend all over the State, if not opposed by the honor, 
valor, and patriotism you have so conspicuously exhibited in other days. 
What will become of our beautiful country, companions in arms, if this 
turbulence, which finds its food in blood and ashes, does not encounter, 
in its savage progress, the invincible obstacle of your courage ? 

" Tou are called upon to guard the supreme powers of the State, as 
you have sworn to do at the foot of your flag. Tour loyalty and heroism 
have been and are still the shield of the country, not less than the terror of 
those who compass its destruction and your enslavement. The soul of the 
hero of Eivas, the valiant Martinez, will glory in your triumph over the 
enemies of the country for which he died ! 

" Fellow Citizens, Friends of Society ! 

" Social order is attacked ; the lava of sanguinary destruction threatens 
to overflow our dearest interests. The assassin of the honored Venerio, 
and of the innocent Solorio, the destroyer of the pacific Rivas, and the 
hated cause of innumerable other misfortunes, has seduced a portion of 
the unreflecting people of the department Meridional from their allegiance, 
and is leading them into the direst iniquities, while, like another Nero, 
he revels above the ruins of the capitol of that unfortunate department. 
But if your valor and patriotism unite to support the cause of order, they 



150 NIOAEAGUA — NARRATIVE. 

wiU interpose an efficient obstacle to the dangers wMch threaten us, and 
turn back in confusion the enemies of the State. 

" The supreme government, the centre of order, has invested me with 
the largest authority to act for its support ; and with your effective aid, I 
go with my soldiers to fulfill the duties with which I am charged. The 
country asks, if it need be, the lives of her sons ; our wives, mothers, and 
children look to you in this emergency for the security of their liberty and 
lives! 

JOSE TRINIDAD MUNOZ. 

" Head-quarters, June 21, 1849." 

Tlie subjoined is also a specimen of the announ cements 
and appeals made by tlie editors of the official Bulletin, with 
the view to rouse the patriotism of the people, and concen- 
trate their indignation against the insurgents. 

" We denounced before the people, in a previous number, the incendi- 
arism, pillage, and bloodshed, with which that most ferocious barbarian, 
{antropofago,) Bernabe Somoza, had desolated the department Meridional ; 
but those crimes were as nothing in comparison with the most unheard-of 
outrages and unparalleled barbarisms which he has more recently com- 
mitted in that important section of the State. He has spared neither age 
nor sex, not even the unresisting wounded, nor the corpses of the dead; 
and with impious hand has seized upon the sacred vessels in the temple 
of the Grod of Justice, who, penetrating at a single glance the hearts of 
men, and always as just as inexorable in the end, will as assuredly save 
the virtuous, as he will, with his terrible lightnings, strike down the 
wicked and the criminal. In evidence of the new and almost incredible 
horrors which have filled up the cup of sorrow, for all those who possess 
souls and human sympathies, we publish the following account, communi- 
cated by Don Trinidad Salazar, commandant in the department Oriental, 
to the General-in-chief : 

" ' I have positive news fi:om Eivas, that Somoza is stUl in that city, 
perpetrating every excess. He has shot aU the wounded ; robbed even 
the sacred vessels in the churches, and is on the eve of entirely burning 
the city. He has disinterred the body of Lieut. Col. Martinez, and dragged 
it naked through the streets. In short, these are but few examples of 
the thousand horrible acts committed by this barbarous man. Within 
an hour has died in this city, from the effects of his wounds, our friend, 
the brave Capt. Santos Ramirez, notwithstanding every means were ex- 



APPEALS TO THE PEOPLE. 151 

hausted to save him; and it only remains for me to pay his remains 
their last sad honors.' 

"How terrible to the imagination, how disgraceful to humanity, are 
deeds hke these, committed on the spot consecrated by the blood of the 
hero and Christian, the honored Don Manuel Antonio de la Cerda, first 
chief of Nicaragua, whose sacred corpse was also thus outraged in those 
days of barbarism which have been looked back to with horror, but 
which bear no parallel to those now passing in that unfortunate depart- 
ment. 

"But those noble soldiers, the brave Martinez and Eamirez, shall re- 
ceive the rites of sepulchre in oiu- hearts. There we wiU engrave deep ' -i'^ • 
their memories. Their conduct shall be forever an example to our soldiers, 
to the friends of humanity, and the admirers of true honor. Our breasts 
shall be the temples where they shall receive the tribute of our gratitude, 
and immortal glory. God's justice and the sword of the violated laws 
have gone forth to avenge their blood I" 

Having received tliese documents and tlie information 
accompanying them, I relinqnislied tlie idea of an immediate 
departure, and deitermined to wait for tlie arrival of tlie Oal- 
ifornian escort. The news of the General's approach created 
great joy; and the bells were rung and guns fired in token 
of satisfaction. He was expected to arrive the next day ; 
and that evening a "banda" was published, requiring the 
houses on the principal streets and on the plaza to be deco- 
rated, and everything put in order to receive him. The pub- 
lication of the "banda" was a novelty to us. It was done 
in this wise : a party of soldiers, preceded by a drum and 
fife, and a municipal officer, marched through all the princi- 
pal streets, stopping at each corner, when the music ceased, 
and the officer took off his hat and read the proclamation 
aloud, while the people thrust out their heads and listened. 
We laughed at first at this new mode of publishing the laws, 
but in the end came to regard it as not a bad idea. 

That evening, there being no longer fear of the "facciosos," 
we had no difficulty in making up a large riding party for the 
Laguna de Salinas, distant about four miles from the city, 
which was represented to us as being lower than lake Mca- 



152 NICAEAGUA — NAERATIVE. 

ragua, salt, and stut in by perpendicular rocks. We fol- 
lowed the "camino real," in tte direction of Leon, for a 
short distance, and then turned off on a narrow mule path, 
amongst the trees and bushes. It was very evident that the 
"caballeros" who accompanied us were determined to show 
us a specimen of their horsemanship, and rode at breakneck 
pace, keeping a bright lookout for the trunks and branches 
of the trees, now bending to their horses' necks to escape the 
latter, and now throwing their feet dextrously out of the 
stirrups, to avoid hitting the former. Thanks to early 
habits of life, this was no very severe trial to me, and I kept 
even pace with the rest, to their evident surprise, and the 
strengthening of their conviction that the Yankees were 
"up" to everything. We passed, here and there, a cane 
hut, surrounded by plantain trees, corn-fields, and patches of 
yucas, over ridges of volcanic scorise, covered only with grass, 
down into ravines with a scramble, and out again with a 
leap, and in half an hour came to the brink of the lake. I 
dismounted, and pushed through the trees and bushes to the 
edge of the precipice, and saw, far down, hundreds of feet 
below me, the glistening waters of the lake, surrounded on 
all sides by the same bare, blistered, black walls, with a rim 
of verdure skirting the water's edge. Mounting again, we 
rode a little further, to the sole place of descent, in part 
natural, but chiefly artificial. A narrow path, half-cut, half- 
worn, in the rock, wound down before us, something after 
the manner of the winding stairways in monumental columns, 
only not so wide. The horses picked their way cautiously, 
avoiding the loose stones, while the rider had enough to do 
to prevent his legs from being jammed against the wall of 
rock on either hand. A man had previously been sent 
ahead, to see that the way was clear, for there is no turning 
around in this narrow passage, which no doubt owes its origin 
to the aborigines, and is hardly wide enough to admit the 
passage of a horse. This cut passed, we came to a place 



LAGUNA DE SALINAS. 153 

wliere the fallen debris and rocks made a kind of shelf or 
terrace. Here we left our horses, the declivity below being 
very steep, and the rocks slippery withal, and proceeded on 
foot, — ^leaping from one stone to the other, and catching at 
bushes and saplings to check our descent. We soon came to 
the shore of the lake, where, beyond a line or belt of bushes, 
was a narrow beach of fine sand. The water was very clear 
and hmpid, but had a sulphury or yellowish green color 
where it was deeper, a little distance from the shore. It was 
slightly salt to the taste, from the minerals held in solution. 
We observed some small fishes, and were told that there 
were alligators, but how they got here was a mystery ; as I 
have already said, the lake is surrounded by absolutely pre- 
cipitous walls of rock, several hundred feet in height, with 
no practicable descent for man or beast, except at this point. 
It was evident enough that the lake was of volcanic origin ; 
but in what way formed, was not so clear. The black and 
frowning rocks seemed to imply that it was an ancient crater ; 
but this conclusion was somewhat shaken by the fact that, 
from the plain, upon the western side of the lake, rose a con- 
ical hill, or small mountain, which had been a volcano, and 
exhibited a crater. Had the earth sunk suddenly here, dur- 
ing some terrible convulsion of nature ? " Quien sabe ?" We 
afterwards found numerous other lakes, equally extraordin- 
ary, and some of considerably larger size. This one, called 
in the aboriginal language, Lendiri, was, I should think, 
about three miles in circumference.^ The trees grew to the 
very edge of the precipice, and vines and creepers hung in 
waving festoons down its rugged sides ; altogether form- 
ing an impressive picture. Our appreciation of it was not a 

^ Oviedo (1529) says of this lake, " In the province of Diria is another 
lake, the water of which is salt, Hke that of the sea ; and the flavor of the 
fish, which it produces in abundance, is far superior to that of the other 
fresh water lakes of which I have spoken. It is about a lea^ie and a half, 
or two leagues, from Granada, or Salteba " 



154 NICAEAGUA — ^NAEEATIVE. 

little enhanced by tlie feeling, half of curiosity and half of 
awe, which every one must experience upon witnessing, for 
the first time, the terrible effects of volcanic forces, and 
which no familiarity ever materially weakens. 

We were hot, weary, and thirsty, when we had clambered 
again to where our horses were fastened, and emptied a flask 
of " agua ardiente" and water, with which one of the party 
had considerately supplied himself, in much less time than it 
takes me to make the confession, and with a satisfaction 
which I shall not attempt to describe. We returned leisurely, 
for the shades of evening were falling, and the narrow path 
was much obscured by the trees. It was late when we 
reached the city, which had now recovered from the chilling 
influences of impending danger, and was gay and cheerful. 
The streets were thronged with noisy children, and the 
senoras and seftoritas were all seated in the doorways or in 
the balconied windows, in quiet enjoyment of the cool even- 
ing breeze, which swung the lamps, suspended in front of 
each house, slowly to and fro. There seemed to be a sense 
of the luxury of mere existence among the inhabitants, which 
the traveller looks for in vain except under the tropics, and 
which there appears to be in perfect harmony with nature. 

We had scarcely entered the main street, when my com- 
panions suddenly stopped short, and taking off their hats, 
turned back again. Without comprehending fully the 
reason, I did the same. The next moment, however, I heard 
the tinkling of a bell, and looking around the corner, 
saw a procession of persons with uncovered heads, each 
bearing a light, preceded by a boy ringing a bell, who was 
followed by some men playing on violins, and a guard of 
soldiers surrounding four persons who supported, with silver 
rods, a crimson silken canopy, over a priest dressed in his 
robes, and carrying the host. The children fled to the sides 
of the street and fell on their knees, as did also all the inhab- 
itants, upon the approach of the procession, which was pro- 



RELIGIOUS TOLERATION. 155 

ceeding to tlie house of some one dangerously ill, or djdng. 
We stood in the cross street, with uncovered heads, as it 
passed by. It was only a few years before that a party of 
foreigners had been torn from their horses and otherwise 
maltreated, because they did not dismount and kneel on an 
occasion like this. The people, however, had now become 
comparatively enlightened and liberal, and exacted nothing 
beyond a decent respect for their rehgious notions and cere- 
monies. It looked rather strangely to see a file of soldiers, 
with glancing bayonets, surrounding a priest bent on such a 
mission ; but either to insure proper respect, or to show it, 
the guard is never omitted, if men and muskets are, by any 
possibility, to be found. Sometimes the priest rides in a 
lumbering carriage, or is carried in a Utter or chair, on men's 
shoulders. 

That night, until eight o'clock there was a firing of " bom- 
bas" in the plaza, and general demonstrations of satisfaction 
everywhere, to say nothing of great preparations for the 
morrow, the day announced for the arrival of General Munoz 
and his veteranos. Preceding that event, and the recital of 
what followed, it will not be uninteresting to turn for a 
moment to the early history of Granada, which was a city 
grown, long before the Pilgrims landed at Plymouth, and be- 
fore Hudson entered the bay of ISTew York. 



CHAPTEE yi. 

DISCOVERT OF NICARAOUA IN 1522 ; GIL GONZALES DE AVILA, AND HIS MARCH 
INTO THE COUNTRY ; LANDS AT NICOTA ; REACHES NICARAGUA AND HAS AN 
INTERVIEW "WITH ITS CAZIQUE ; IS CLOSELY QUESTIONED ' MARCHES TO DIRI- 
ANGA, WHERE HE IS AT FIRST RECEIVED, BUT AFTERWARDS ATTACKED AND 

FORCED TO retreat; peculiakities of the aborigines; their wealth; 

ARRIVAL OF FRANCISCO HERNANDEZ DE CORDOVA ; HE SUBDUES THE COUNTRY, 
AND FOUNDS THE CITLES OF GRANADA AND LEON; RETURN OF GONZALES; 
QUARRELS BETWEEN THE CONQUERORS; PEDRO ARIAS DE AVILA THE FIRST 
GOVERNOR OF NICAEAGUA ; HIS DEATH ; IS SUCCEEDED BY RODERIGO DE CON- 
TRERAS ; HIS SON, HERNANDEZ DE CONTRERAS, REBELS AGAINST SPAIN ; MEDI- 
TATES THE ENTIRE INDEPENDENCE OF ALL SPANISH AMERICA ON THE PACIFIC ; 
SUCCEEDS IN CARRYING NICARAGUA; SAILS FOR PANAMA; CAPTURES IT; 
MARCHES ON NOMBRE DE DIGS, BUT DIES ON THE WAY ; FAILURE OF HIS DARING 
AND GIGANTIC PROJECT ; SUBSEQEUNT INCORPORATION OP NICARAGUA IN THE 
VICE-ROYALTY OF GUATEMALA. — THE CITY OF GRANADA IN 1665, BY THOMAS 
GAGE, AN ENGLISH MONK; NICARAGUA CALLED " MAHOMEt's PARADISE;" THE 
IMPORTANCE OF GRANADA AT THAT PERIOD; SUBSEQUENT ATTACK BY THE 
PIRATES IN 1668 ; IS BURNT ; THEIR ACCOUNT OF IT ; THE SITE OF GRANADA ; 
ELIGIBILITY OF ITS POSITION; POPULATION; COMMERCE; FOREIGN MERCHANTS; 
PROSPECTIVE IMPORTANCE. — LAKE NICARAGUA ; ITS DISCOVERY AND EXPLORA- 
TION ; INTERESTING ACCOUNT OF IT BY THE CHRONICLER OVIEDO, WRITTEN IN 
1541 ; ITS OUTLET DISCOVERED BY CAPTAIN DIEGO MACHUCA ; THE WILD 
BEASTS ON ITS SHORES ; THE LAGUNA OF SONGOZANA ; SHARKS IN THE LAKE, . 
THEIR RAPACITY ; SUPPOSED TIDES IN THE LAKE ; EXPLANATION OF THE PHE- 
NOMENON. 

The first Spaniard who penetrated into Nicaragua, was 
Gril Gronzales de Avila, in tlie year 1522. He sailed from 
Panama, and landed somewhere upon tlie shore of the Grulf 
of Mcoya, probably in the southern department of JSTicaragua, 
now bearing the name of Nicoya, or Guanacaste. With four 
horses and a hundred followers, he advanced to the north- 



158 NICARAGUA — ISTARRATIVE. 

ward over land, meeting in his progress witli several pettj 
chiefs, and finally came to the territories of a powerfol 
cazique called Nicoya^ who, says Peter Martyr, " courteously 
entertained him, and gave him fourteen thousand pieces of 
eight in gold thirteen carats fine, and six idols of the same 
metal, each a span long," in return for which, adds Herrara, 
Gronzales " gave him some Spanish toys, and baptized him 
and all his subjects, being six thousand in number." 

Here Gronzales heard of a powerful chief named Nicaragua, 
and proceeding fifty leagues to the northward, arrived in his 
territories, which were between the lake of Nicaragua and 
the sea, comprising the district of which the city of Nicara- 
gua or Eivas is now the capital, and which occupies the site 
of the aboriginal town. To this chief, Peter Martyr tells us, 
De Avila sent the same message which " our men were wont 
to deliver to the rest of the Indian kings, before they would 
press them, that is to say, that they should become Chris- 
tians, and admit their subjection to the King of Spain, if 
they did not which, then war and violence would be used 
against them." But Nicaragua, it appears, had heard of the 
" sharpness of the Spanish swords," and received Gronzales 
courteously and with great state, presenting him with 
"twenty -five thousand pieces of eight in gold, many gar- 
ments, and plumes of feathers." Gonzales prevailed upon 
him to be baptized, as he accordingly was, with nine thou- 
sand of his subjects. Their sole objection to the rite was the 
prohibition of making war, and " of dancing when they were 
drunk," alleging that " they did nobody harm thereby, and 
that they could not quit their colors, weapons, and plumes 
of feathers, and let the women go to war, whilst they applied 
themselves to spin, weave, and dig, which belonged to the 
females and slaves." Nicaragua asked many shrewd ques- 
tions of the Spaniards, one of which was, " why so few men 
coveted so much gold ?" " Gonzales being a discreet man," 



CONVEETING A COUNTRY. 159 

observes Herrara, "gave siicli answers as satisfied him," 
althougli tliey have not been preserved.' 

After mnch persuasion Nicaragua consented that "the 
idols which he worshipped should be cast down, and a cross 
set up in the temple, which was hung with fine cotton cloths ; 
and thus the country was converted !" 

From the territories of this chief, Gonzales, being every 
where kindly received, penetrated the country in various 
directions, and saw many towns, which, says Herrara, 
"though not large, were good and populous;'' and multi- 
tudes flocked along the ways to see the Spanish beards, and 
habits, and their horses, which were so strange to them." 
While thus engaged, he encoimtered a warlike cazique, called 
Diriangan^ a name that is perpetuated in that of the existing 
towns of DiriaTnh\ Diriomo^ and Nindiri, situated about fifty 
miles to the north-westward of Nicaragua. This chief was 
attended by five hundred men, with seventeen women, who 
wore many gold plates. They were drawn up in order, but 

1 Old Peter Martyr gives quite a minute account of the interview be- 
tween Gonzales and Nicaragua, calculated to give a very high, opinion of 
the shrewdness of the latter. He inquired about a flood, and how the 
Spaniards got their information on reUgious matters from heaven, who 
brought it, and whether he came down on a rainbow or otherwise ; about 
"the sun, and moon, and stars, and of their motion, quality, distance, 
and effects !" AU these things were noted down on the spot, by Cerezeda, 
the king's treasurer, who also affirms that Nicaragua was curious about 
the cause of day and night, and the blowing of the winds, " which Gonza- 
les answered to the best of his abiUty, commending the rest to God." 
Gonzales had a long argument with him to prove that his idols were rep- 
resentatives of devUs, and warned him in a style not yet whoUy obsolete, 
to avoid them, " lest he should be violently carried away by them from 
eternal delights to perpetual torments and miserable woes, and be made 
the companion of the damned." To aU of these things the Indians did 
not offer particular objection, but when they came to talk about temporal 
affairs, " they made a wry mouth." 

* Peter Martyr says that he found " six villages, every one of which had 
two thousand houses a-piece." — " De Novo Orbe," Decade vi. p. 237. 



160 NICAEAGUA — ^NAREATIVE. 

without arms, " with ten colors, and trumpets after their 
fashion." When Gonzales came near, the colors were spread, 
and the cazique touched his hand, as did also each of his fol- 
lowers ; every man presenting him, at the same time, with 
one or two turkeys, and each woman with " twenty golden 
plates, fourteen carats fine, each weighing eighteen pieces of 
eight, and upwards," 

Gonzales endeavored to persuade Diriangan to become a 
Christian; but the chief demanded three days to consult upon 
the subject " with* his women and priests." The Spaniards 
soon suspected that this was a ruse^ and that it was his design 
to gather forces to attack and destroy them. In this they 
were not mistakeii^ for on the 17th of April, 1522, a body of 
several thousand Indians, " armed after their manner with 
cotton armor, head pieces, targets, wooden swords, bows, 
arrows, and darts, fell upon the Spaniards," and had it not 
been for the timely notice of a confederate Indian, would in- 
evitably have destroyed them. The strangers returned to 
the market place, and received tlie onset of the Indians there. 
Several of the Spaniards were knocked down ; for it seems 
that here, as in Mexico, it was rather the desire of the na- 
tives to capture than kill their enemies, in order to offer the 
prisoners as sacrifices to their gods. The Spanish horse, in 
this, as in a thousand other instances, saved them from defeat, 
driving back the Indians in great terror.- Gonzales, consid- 
ering the smallness of his force, resolved, upon this event, to 
retire from the country. In passing the town" of their former 
entertainer, Nicaragua, they were however attacked, but 
nevertheless succeeded in making good their retreat. " The 

^ Peter Martyr tells us that the Indians were not less afraid of men with 
beards than of the horses, and that therefore, to produce the greatest pos- 
sible effect, G-onzales made artificial beards " from the powlinges of their 
heads, for twenty-five beardless youths which he had with him, to the end 
that the number of bearded men might appear the more, and be the more 
terrible to the barbarians." — "Z>e Novo Orle" Decade vi. p. 240. 



REVOLT OF HEENANDEZ DE CONTRERAS 161 

Spaniards," adds Herrara, " gave a miglity account of the 
country upon their return to Panama; for wHcL. reason 
Pedro de Arias, resolved to found a colony there." He 
accordingly soon after despatched Francisco Hernandez de 
Cordova, who, in 1522, founded the city of Granada upon 
the Lake of Nicaragua, and subsequently, in the same year, 
the city of Leon, upon the Lake of Leon, or Managua. Cor- 
dova erected a fort at Grranada for its protection, but it is 
hardly to be supposed that the ruined works on the shore of 
the lake are the remains of this structure. 

Gonzales, who had gone to Spain soon after his discovery, 
to procure the means of conquering and settling the country, 
finding himself anticipated by Cordova, raised a force and 
entering Honduras by the valley of Olancho, from the Bay 
of Honduras, marched upon the towns established by the 
latter. The consequences were many battles, and much dis- 
turbance and turmoil, exceeding anything which had pre- 
viously resulted from the jealousies and rivalries of the 
conquerors, in America. Yery little regard was paid to the 
mother country or its directions ; in fact, after the death of 
Pedro Arias de Avila, who was the first governor of the 
country, Eodrigo de Contreras, his son-in-law, who succeeded 
him, openly disregarded the order of the crown, which pro- 
hibited its of&cers from holding the Indians as property. 
For this charges were preferred against him, and he went to 
Spain to vindicate himself in the " Audiencia Eeal." In his 
absence, his son, Hernandez de Contreras, resenting his 
father's treatment, openly revolted. Their first victim was 
Antonio de Yaldivieso, the bishop of Nicaragua, whose por- 
trait is still preserved in the great cathedral at Leon. The 
insurgents were successful in gaining complete possession of 
the country ; but not satisfied with this, they seized some 
vessels in the port of Eealejo, and embarked for Panama, 
with a view of extending their conquests in that direction, 
and ultimately of seizing upon Peru. Hernandez, in short, 

11 



162 NICAEAGUA — NAERATIVE. 

conceived the idea of becoming king of tlie continent, and 
ruler of tlie South. Sea. He attacked and captured Panama ; 
but on his way to reduce Nombre de Dios, encountered mis- 
fortunes which ended in his death. Thus terminated this 
bold and magnificent design ; the magnitude of which ap- 
palled the King of Spain, and which, at one moment, seemed 
on the eve of a successful consummation. The anniversary 
of Hernandez's death, on the 23d of April, 1549, was cele- 
brated with great solemnity in the Cathedral of Panama, 
until the period of the independence from Spain, 

It is not necessary, nor would it be particularly interest- 
ing, to trace the early history of Nicaragua further. In due 
time, it was organized as a province in the Kingdom or Cap- 
tain Generalcy of Guatemala, and governed by a Governor 
Intendant, appointed by the crown, but subject to the Cap- 
tain General of Guatemala, and so remained until its eman- 
cipation in 1823. At that time Granada was among the first 
cities to declare in favor of republicanism, and has always, in 
the partisan struggles which have followed, been on the lib- 
eral side, as opposed to the servile, oligarchical, or monarchi- 
cal faction, whose machinations have kept the country in a 
state of constant alarm, and which is still the enemy of its 
peace. 

Thomas Gage, an English monk, who went through Nica- 
ragua in 1665, has left us a brief but interesting account of 
the country, which he calls " Mahomet's Paradise, from its 
exceeding goodness." At that time there were in the city 
of Granada two cloisters of Mercenarian and Franciscan friars, 
and " one parish . church, which was a cathedral, for the 
Bishop of Leon did almost constantly reside there." The 
houses, he says, were fairer than those of Leon, and the mer- 
chants enjoyed great wealth. They carried on trade directly 
with Guatemala, Honduras, and San Salvador, as also with 
Panama, Carthagena, and Peru. At the time of sending 
away their vessels, ("frigats," as Gage calls them,) the city 



HISTORY OF GRANADA. 163 

was one of tlie ricliest in all North. America. The king's 
treasure from Guatemala and Mexico was often sent this way, 
when the Hollanders and other enemies infested the Gulf of 
Mexico. Gage tells us that while he was there, "in one day 
there entered six JReqiias, (which were each at least three 
hundred mules,) from San Salvador and Honduras alone, 
laden with indigo, cochineal, and hides ; and two days after 
from Guatemala came in three more, one laden with, silver, 
(which was the king's tribute,) another with sugar, and the 
other with, indigo.'" Eespecting the "frigats" of which 
Gage speaks, we shall have more to say elsewhere. They 
generally sailed for Carthagena, but sometimes directly for 
Spain. They were occasionally intercepted by English and 
Dutch vessels cruising around the mouth of "El Desagua- 
dero," or the San Juan, and the fear of this, observes the 
quaint old traveller, " did make the merchants tremble and 
sweat with, a cold sweat." 

1, Granada, in common with, all the Spanish cities on the 
Pacific declivity of the continent, suffered much, at a later 
period, from the pirates. In 1686 it was attacked by a party 
from the combined French, and English bucaneers then in 
the South Sea, and sacked. They landed on the seventh of 
April in that year, on the coast of the Pacific, in number 
three hundred and forty -five men. They travelled only at 
night, with a view of surprising the town. De Lussan, who 
was of the party, records the adventure. He says that on 
the ninth of the month, two days after their departure from 
the coast, the fatigue which they had undergone, and the 
sharp hunger which pressed them, obliged them to halt at a 
great sugar plantation, about four leagues from Granada, and 
on the way thither. It belonged to a Knight of St. James, 
who, however, escaped being taken prisoner, for the excel- 
lent reason assigned by the chronicler, viz. : " our leggs at 

1 "A New Survey of the West Indies," p. 421. 



m 



164 ISriCAllAGUA — ^ISTAEEATIVE. 

that time being much, more disposed to rest than run after 
him." Upon coming near to the town, thej discovered that 
their approach was known, and saw what Be Lussan calls 
"two ships upon Lake Nicaragua," laden with the effects of 
the retreating inhabitants. They now proceeded with more 
caution, and upon capturing a prisoner found out that a por- 
tion of the inhabitants remained, and had entrenched them- 
selves in the Place of Arms, or Plaza, which was guarded with 
fourteen pieces of cannon, and " six petereroes." This informa- 
tion, continues the worthy De Lussan, " would doubtless have 
terrified any but freebooters, but did not retard our design 
one minute, nor hinder us. About two in the afternoon of 
the same day, we came up to the town, where at' one entrance 
into the suburbs we met a strong party lying in ambush for 
us, whom, after an hour's engagement, we fell with that fury 
on, that we made our way over all their bellies, with the loss 
of but one man on our side, and, from thence entered the 
town, where we made a halt to wait for the answer of seve- 
ral of our company, whom we had detached to go round and 
take observation of a fort which we saw in a direct line with 
the street by which we entered." The reconnoitering over, 
and the plan of attack laid out with all military precision, 
the freebooters " exhorted each other to fall on bravely, and 
advanced at a good round pace to the attack." When they 
had got within cannon shot of the works, they were fired on, 
but at every discharge the pirates " saluted them down to 
the ground, by which means the shot went harmlessly over." 
This excellent practical joke the Spaniards met by false 
priming, "to the end that the pirates might raise their bodies 
after the sham was over," and then receive the real discharge. 
The pirates then broke into the houses and made their ap- 
proaches through the walls, from one to the other; and 
finally came sufficiently near to use their fire-arms and hand 
grenades, and being superior in numbers, and withal well 
used to hard fighting, they soon succeeded in making them- 



HISTORY OF GRANADA. 166 

selves masters of tlie work. Upon the side of tlie pirates 
four men were killed and eight wounded, which, De Lussan 
complacently observes, " was in truth very cheap." They 
then went to the great church and piously sang the Te Deum, 
fixed their sentinels, and the Court of Gruard, (which was 
probably some kind of commission to take charge of the 
plunder,) in the strong-built houses," and afterwards went 
out to gather in the booty. But their victory was a barren 
one, for they only found " a few goods and some provisions." 

Much disappointed, they sent out parties to collect the 
treasures which they conceived might be hidden on the 
estates outside of the city, but with no better success, for 
chey came back, as De Lussan classically observes, "re infec- 
ta" They then caught a woman, whom they sent to the 
Spaniards with a demand for a ransom for the town, and a 
threat of burning the same in case their requisition was not 
complied with. The inhabitants were not so easily fright- 
ened, and did not trouble themselves to give an answer, 
whereupon the pirates " set fire to the houses out of mere 
spite and revenge." 

While here, the pirates, wearied of their laborious and 
perilous life, indulged hopes of returning, through Lake Nica- 
ragua, to Europe. But, in their own words, " the term of 
dangers and miseries which their destiny had in store for 
them was not yet come, and they could not take advantage 
of the favorable opportunity which now offered to get out of 
these parts of the world, which, though -very charming and 
agreeable to those who were settled there, yet did not appear 
so to a handfal of men, without shipping, the most part of 
the time without victuals, and wandering amidst a multitude 
of enemies, against whom they were obliged to be continu- 
ally on their guard." So they fell back, with infinite trouble 
and danger, to the coast, being obliged to contest every foot 
of the ground. They embarked again and sailed for Realejo, 
which they captured, and subsequently took Pueblo Yiejo 



166 NICAEAGUA — NAKRATIVE. 

and Chinendaga, and even made a descent on Leon. J These 
same'men, after further exploits on the coast, made a forced 
mafcli across the continent, jfrom the Gulf of Fonseca to Cape 
Grracios a Dios, through the northern department of Nicara- 
gua (Segovia) and Honduras. 

" De Lussan describes the city of Granada, at the time of his 
visit, as a large and spacious town, with "ptately churches 
and houses, well enough built, besides several religious estab- 
lishments, both for men and women." Around the city 
" were a great many fine sugar plantations, which were more 
like unto so many villages than single plantations." 

The site of Granada is admirably chosen. It occupies a 
gentle slope,«descending towards the lake, which here forms a 
beautiful and partially protected bay, called the bay of 
Granada. Upon one side rises the great volcano of Momo- 
bacho, while behind are the undulating hills and ridges of 
land which intervene between the lake and the Pacific. The 
position is, in fact, the only eligible one on the western shore 
of the lake, near its head, where any considerable town could be 
built, due regard being had to space, salubrity, and convenience 
for trade. And while Leon, from the circumstances that it was 
almost immediately established as the seat of government, 
and was built in a more fertile and populous district, has 
preserved a larger population and a greater number of im- 
posing public edifices, Granada has always held a higher 
place in respect of trade. Through it, from the earliest 
period, has been conducted the principal part of the com- 
merce.of the country, besides a portion of that of the adjacent 
provinces and States. It has not suffered so much from vio- 
lence as the political capital ; and although subject to the 
same influences which have depressed the country at large, it 
has felt them less. Wealth has, in consequence, concentrated 
here to a considerable extent, and its commercial relations 
have led to the introduction of many foreign customs, with- 
out, however, materially changing its essential Central 



COMMERCE OF GRANADA. 167 - 

American type. More foreigners liave, from time to time, 
established themselves here, than in all the rest of the State. 
Some of them, after accumulating large fortunes, have re- 
turned to their native lands, while others, from habit or incli- 
nation, have remained, and almost entirely assimilated thern- 
selves to the native population. 

The population of Granada is now estimated at from 
twelve to fifteen thousand inhabitants. This estimate may, 
however, be considerably wide of the truth. When Juarros 
wrote, the population was calculated to be 863 Europeans, 
Spaniards and Creoles ; 910 Mestizos ; 4,765 Ladinos ; and 
1,695 Indians. Total, 8,233. 

No means exist whereby its trade can be accurately esti- 
mated. With the exception of some direct trade with the 
city of Eivas or Nicaragua, situated on the lake forty-five 
miles below Granada, the entire commerce with San Juan 
is conducted through this city. Here are owned nearly all 
the boats used in the navigation of the lake and river, and 
here also reside the principal part of the " marineros," or 
men employed in managing them. There are several whole- 
sale mercantile houses, trading directly with New York, 
London, Liverpool, some of the French, Spanish, and Italian 
ports, and Jamaica. The principal supplies of the merchants 
have, for a number of years, been obtained from the island 
last named, where their credit is said to be better than that 
of the traders from any of the other Spanish States. The 
transactions are often, if not generally, cash, or what is equiv- 
alent, remittances in bullion, indigo, or other staples of high 
value and little bulk. Advances are often made, however, 
on prospective crops, which seldom fail. Iron, copper, and 
China wares, silks, calicoes, cottons, etc., are the principal im- 
ports ; while, as I have already said, the exports consist of 
indigo, bullion, hides, Brazil wood, and coffee. As it is 
almost impossible, to limit the production of tropical staples 
in Nicaragua, such as indigo, coffee, cacao, cotton, rice, sugar, 



168 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 

and tobacco, not to mention hides, dje- woods, and medicines, 
tlie wealtli and importance of Granada mnst go on increasing, 
as tlie country becomes developed by tbe introduction of 
enterprise and capital, botb of wbictL are rapidly taking tbat 
direction. This remark will bold true, even though the pro- 
spective canal, or the projected route of transit between the 
oceans, should not pass through or near it ; for it is really the 
only eligible position for a large town on the south or west- 
ern shore of the lake, and is, and must ever remain, nearer 
than all others to the great centres of population and produc- 
tion. Several American hotels and mercantile houses are 
already established there, and it is becoming better known 
than any other city in all Central America. A small steam- 
er now plies between it and San Carlos, at the outlet of the 
lake. A short wharf or two alone are wanted to facilitate 
landing, and secure vessels from the waves of the lake, which 
sometimes roll in here with almost the force and majesty of 
those of the ocean. 

The lake of Nicaragua, called by the aborigines Gocibolca, 
which gives to Granada its importance, and which is the 
most remarkable natural feature of the country, has already 
been described, in general terms, in the second chapter of 
this book. It, of course, attracted the first attention of the 
Spanish adventurers, who made many wonderfal reports 
of it, which, reaching Spain, excited much speculation as to 
the probability of a water communication between the two 
oceans. Indeed it was confidently announced by some that 
straits opened from it to the South and to the North Seas ; 
but it was not until 1529 that it was fully explored. In that 
year, we are informed by the historian Oviedo y Yaldez, 
(who was in the country at the time of which he writes, but 
whose chronicle remained in manuscript until 1840, and has 
not yet, in any part, been published in English,) in that year, 
Pedro de Avila sent a man named Martin Estete, at the head 
of a party of soldiers and Indians, to make an exploration 



EXPLORATION OF LAKE NICARAGUA. 169 

both of Lake Nicaragua and Managua. They went into a 
province called Voto, which must have been to the north- 
ward of Lake Managua, but got involved with the natives, 
were attacked and driven back. They however saw, from 
the top of a mountain, a body of water, which they sup- 
posed to be a third lake. It was probably the great Gulf 
of Fonseca, which is nearly surrounded by land, and would, 
at a distance, be taken for an inland lake. Nothing of value 
resulted from this expedition. Subsequently, however, a 
private expedition was undertaken by Captain Diego Machu- 
ca, a friend of the historian Oviedo, which was more success- 
fal, and terminated in the discovery of the outlet of the lakes, 
down which the adventurers passed to the ocean. I shall let 
the old writer tell his own story. He says : 



" Last year, (1540,) I met in the city of Santo Domingo the pilot Pedro 
Cora, who was one of those who had accompanied Estete in his trip to 
Voto, and had seen both the country and the dubious lake. He told me 
that he had come from New Castile, under the government of Prancisco 
Pizarro, and that he had met at the port of Nombre de Dios some old 
friends whom he had known in the province of Nicaragua, and who had 
built a felouque and brigantine on the shores of the great lake of Nicara- 
gua, called Cocibolca in the language of the country. With them was a 
man named Diego Machuca, with whom I have been well acquainted, and 
who had been commandant of the country of the Cazique Tenderi, and of 
the country around the lake of Masaya. After having spent some thou- 
sands of dollars in building and arming these vessels at their own expense, 
they embarked with the intention of exploring these lakes thoroughly, or 
of perishing in the attempt. Captain Diego Machuca advanced by land,* 
at the head of two hundred men, taking the same course with the boats, , 
which were accompanied by some canoes. They, in course of time, 
arrived at the spot where the waters of these lakes appeared to flow into 
the North Sea. As they knew not where they were, they followed the 
sea coast in an eastern direction, and finally arrived at the port of Nombre 
de Dios, where this pUot met them. He conversed, ate, and drank often 
with those who had thus passed out of these lakes into the sea. He also 
told me that Doctor Robles held these men as prisoners, because he him- 
self wished to found a colony at the outlet of these lakes, and thus profit 



170 NICAEAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 

by the labor of another, as is the custom with these men of letters, for the 
use that they make of their wisdom is rather to rob than to render jus- 
tice ; and this was true of this man more than of others, for he was not 
only a licendado, or hachelor, but a doctor, the highest grade of science, 
and has therefore shown himself the greatest tyrant ! For this reason, 
his employment has been taken away from him. Besides, if he had under- 
taken to found a colony at this outlet, he would have met there Captain 
Machuca, who would not have consented to have thus lost his time, 
money, and trouble ; the old soldier would have proved himself too sharp 
for the wise lawyer. I asked the pilot, at what point on the coast these 
lakes emptied into the ocean, but he repUed that he was not at hberty to 
tell. I beheve that he wished to conceal it from me himself, and that it 
was on this business he was going to Spain, on behalf of those who made 
the discovery. I believe this place to be about one hundred leagues west 
of Nombre de Dios,' and if I obtain any new information on this matter, 
I will put it in the concluding chapters of tliis book. 

"I do not regard what are called the two lakes of Nicaragua as sepa- 
rate lakes, because they connect the one with the other. They are sepa- 
rated from the South Sea by a very narrow strip of land ; and I should 
say that the distance from their upper extremity to the outlet in the North 
Sea, is two hundred and fifty leagues.* The measures given by Pedro 
Arias and others are not true, since they did not know their extent. 
They have made a separate lake on the side where is Leon de Nagrando, 
on the lands of a cazique named Tipitapa, which communicates with a 
narrow channel with that of Granada (Nicaragua.) In summer there is 
but little water in this channel, so little that a man may traverse it ; the 
water coming up no higher than his breast. This lake is fiUed with ex- 
cellent fish. But what proves that they are both one lake is the fact that 
they equally abound in sea-fish and turtles. Another proof is that in 1529, 
there was found in the province of Nicaragua, upon the bank of this lake, 
a fish never seen except in the sea, and called the sword-fish, (pexe higue- 
ta,) on account of a bone armed on both sides vdth sharp points, placed in 
the extremity of its jaw. I have seen some of these fish of so great size, 
that two oxen attached to a cart could hardly draw them. A description 
of these may be found in Cap. iii. hb. 13, Part first of this work. The 
one found on the shores of this lake was small, being only about twelve 

1 This estimate was very accurate ; the actual distance is but about two 
hundred and fifty miles in a right line. 

* Oviedo overshoots the mark here ; read miles for leagues, and the dis- 
tance is very near the truth. 



DESCRIPTION" OF LAKE NICARAGUA. 171 

feet in length, and must have entered at the outlet of the lake. Its sword 
only of a hand's breadth, and of the width of two fingers. 

" The water of the lakes is very good and healthful, and a large num- 
ber of small rivers and brooks empty into them. In some places the great 
lake is fifteen or twenty fathoms deep : in other places it is scarcely a foot 
in depth ; so that it is not navigable in all parts, but only in the middle, 
and with barks constructed expressly for the purpose. 

" It has a large number of islands, of some extent, covered with flocks and 
precious woods. The largest is eight leagues in circumference, and is inhab- 
ited by Indians. It is very fertile, filled with deer and rabbits, and named 
Ometepec, which signifies two Tnountains. It formerly contained a popu- 
lation much more numerous than now, divided into eight or ten vil- 
lages. The mountain on this island towards the east is lowest ; the other 
is so high that its summit is seldom seen. When I passed by this island 
the atmosphere was very clear, and I could easily see the summit. I 
passed the night at a farm belonging to a gentleman named Diego Mora, 
situated on the main land near the island. The keeper told me that 
during the two years he had been in that place he had seen the sum- 
mit but once, because it was always covered with clouds. 

" On the south side of the great lake is a smaller one, called Songozana, 
which is separated fi:om it by a flat shore, but one hundred and fifty paces 
wide. It is formed by rains, which fill it up in the rainy season ; and as 
it is higher than the great lake, its waters bear away the sand, and empty 
into it. This laguna then becomes filled with alligators and all kinds of 
fish. But during the summer it nearly dries up. The Indians then kill 
with clubs great numbers of alligators and fish. It is about a league and 
a half in length, and three-fourths of a league in breadth. I visited it 
in the latter part of July, 1529, and there was but little water in it. The 
farmer whom I have mentioned had many hogs, which fed on the fish 
which they caught here, and were so large that they looked frightful, the 
more so, because they had the smell and taste offish. For this reason 
they are now kept away from the laguna, and only allowed to approach 
to drink. 

" In this vicinity there are numerous black tigers, which made great 
havoc in this farmer's flocks. He had some excellent dogs, which had 
killed many of these tigers ; he showed me one in particular, that had 
kUled two or three. The skin of one of these animals, which he showed 
me^ was black, like velvet. This kind is more ferocious than the spotted 
variety. He said he would not take a thousand dollars for his dogs, for 
his pork was worth a thousand, and without the dogs the tigers would 
have destroyed them all." 



172 ' NICARAGUA — ^FAEKATIVE. 

A laguna, sometHng like tliat of Songozana^ described by 
Oviedo, occurs about six miles above tbe city of Granada, 
near the place called " Los Cocos," but I am not aware tbat 
it is ever dry. The statement tliat sword-fisb. bave reached 
the lake seems somewhat apochryphal, although it should be 
observed that Oviedo is usually very accurate in matters ol 
this kind. It is, however, a fact that sharks abound in the 
lake. They are called "tiburones" from their rapacity. 
Instances are known of their having attacked and killed 
bathers within a stone's throw of the beach at Granada ; and 
I have myself repeatedly seen them from the walls of the old 
castlcj dashing about, with their fins projecting above the 
water, ' Great varieties of fish are found in Lakes Nicara- 
gua and Managua, which are extensively caught and used 
by the people residing on their shores. The lake of Nica- 
ragua was supposed, at one time, to have tides like the ocean, 
and the fact that it has an ebb and flow led to the early be- 
belief that it was only an estuary, or bay of the sea. The 
phenomenon is, however, of easy explanation. As I have 
said, the prevaihng wind in Nicaragua is the north-east trade, 
which here sweeps entirely across the continent. This is 
strongest in the noon and evening, when it drives the water 
upon the western shores of the lakes ; it subsides towards 
morning, when the equilibrium is restored, and an ebb fol- 
lows. The regularity with which the winds blow, give a 
corresponding regularity to the ebb and flow of the lake. 
Sometimes, when the wind blows continuously, and with 
greater force than usual, from the direction I have named, 
the low lands on the opposite shore of the lakes are flooded 
to a great extent. Such occurrences, however are rare. 



CHAPTER YII. 

ITARRATrVE CONTINUED — ARRIVAL OF THE GENERAL IN CHIEF — THE ARMY — 
FIREWORKS BY DAYLIGHT — PRISONERS — INTERVIEW WITH GEN. MUNOZ — ^AR- 
RIVAL OF THE CALIFORNIAN ESCORT — " PIEDRAS ANTIGTTAS" — THE STONE OF 
THE BIG MOUTH — " EL CHIFLADOr" — OTHER ANTIQUITIES — ^PREPARATIONS 
FOR DEPARTURE — CARTS AND " CARRETEROS" — VEXATIOUS DELAYS — DEPAR- 
TURE — HOW I GOT A GOOD HORSE FOR A BAD MULE, ON THE ROAD — DISTANT 
VIEW OF THE LAKES — THE FREEDOM OF THE FOREST — ARRIVAL AT MASAYA — 

GRAND ENTREE — DESERTED PLAZA — A MILITARY EXECUTION — ^A " POSADA" 

" HIJOS DE WASHINGTON" DISAPPOINTED MUNICIPALITY — ^WE ESCAPE AN OVA- 
TION — ROAD TO NINDIRI — APOSTROPHE TO NINDIRI ! — OVERTAKE THE CARTS — 
" ALGO fresco" — APPROACH THE VOLCANO OF MASAYA — THE " MAL PAIS" — 
LAVA FIELDS — ^VIEW OF THE VOLCANO — ^ITS ERUPTIONS — " ELINFIERNO DE MA- 
SAYA," THE HELL OF MASAYA — OVIEDO'S ACCOUNT OF HIS VISIT TO IT IN 
1529 — ACTIVITY AT THAT PERIOD — THE ASCENT — THE CRATER — SUPERSTI- 
TIONS OF THE INDIANS — THE OLD WOMAN OP THE MOUNTAIN — THE DESCENT 
OF THE FRAY BLAS CASTILLO INTO THE CRATER. 

Sunday, tlie day after tlie events recited in a previous 
cliapter, was ushered in by a general ringing of tlie cliurcli 
bells, and a miscellaneous firing of bombas, on the part of tbe 
boys. Higb mass was said in " La Parroquia," for tlie safe 
arrival of tlie General and bis army. I now discovered tbe 
ef&cacy of tbe "banda." Red and yellow clotb was sus- 
pended in front of all tbe balconies ; gay curtains sbaded 
every window ; festoons of flowers bung above every door, 
and little flags and:bougbs of trees were strung in all conve- 
nient places. Tbe decorations in tbe plaza were particularly 
profase and fanciful. Altogether tbe streets looked mucb 
like tbose of some of our own cities, tricked out on tbe occa- 
sion of a political festival, or some similar occasion, wben 



174 ■ NICARAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 

impunity is conceded to absurdity of every kind. Men, 
women, and children were all dressed in their best attire, 
and seemed to be in high, spirits. There was a general reac- 
tion from the despondency which had so long aflSicted the 
popular mind ; and, as I strolled through the Jalteva, I ob- 
served that already many of the fugitive inhabitants had 
returned, and that the municipality began to have some sem- 
blance of life again. At about eleven o'clock messengers 
arrived, announcing that the General was. at a "hatto," a 
league from the city, waiting for the coming up of the main 
body of his troops. Directly I heard the roll of drums in the 
plaza, and shortly after saw a large cavalcade, embracing the 
municipal and departmental officers, and a body of several 
hundred of the leading inhabitants, defile past to meet and 
welcome the General. When they had departed, there was 
a lull in the city ; the quiet of expectation had succeeded the 
bustle of preparation ; and, there being nothing more to see, 
I went back to my quarters, and lying down in my ham- 
mock, suspended beneath the corridor of the house, where 
the fresh breeze circulated freely, rustling the orange leaves, 
took up Layard's Nineveh, which had been pubhshed a day 
or two before I left the States. I read of winged bulls, 
priestly processions, and Arab bands, and in a state of half- 
consciousness was trying hard to make out something about 
the Yezidis, who would, nevertheless mix themselves up 
with the marineros of the lake, and the Naides of San Migu- 
eleto, when the discharge of a cannon, and the simultaneous 
clang of every bell in the city, startled me to my feet, and 
announced the approach of the long-expected, and long- 
'wished-for General. 

I took my place in the outer corridor, to see whatever there 
might be to see. The streets were lined with people, mostly 
women, their heads protected by gaudy rebosos ; while every 
door, window, and balcony was occupied by the better por- 
tion of the population, dressed to the limit of their finery. 



ARRIVAL OF THE GENERAL IN CHIEF. I75 

The discliarge of cannon continued at regular intervals, be- 
coming more and more distinct as the guns approached, 
while the bells kept up an incessant and almost deafening 
clangor. The General, I thought, was slow in his move- 
ments, and a long time in coming; for it was full an hour 
before the head of the procession appeared, turning sharp 
around a corner near my quarters. A mass of horsemen, 
filling the entire street, passed along in utter confusion ; but 
these, I soon saw, were the citizens who had gone out to act 
as an escort. Following these was a small detachment of 
lancers, who moved in entire order, and made a good appear- 
ance. After them came a party of oflicers, brilliantly dressed, 
preceded by the flag of the republic, around which the peo- 
ple pressed in a dense body, shouting " Yiva el esclarecido 
Greneral!" "Yiva el Gobierno Supremo!" "Yiva la Ee- 
publica ! " " Muerte £i los enemigos del orden ! " Death to 
the enemies of order I I had no difficulty in distinguishing 
amongst the fine body of men composing his staflP, the erect 
and commanding figure of Gen. Munoz himself He was 
splendidly mounted, and wore a neat undress uniform of 
blue, turned up with red, and a Panama hat, covered with 
black oiled sUk. He bowed in an easy and graceful man- 
ner, m acknowledgment of the "vivas" directed to him, and 
of the salutations of the senoras and senoritas in the balco- 
nies. I observed his face closely when he approached ; it 
was animated but firm, — expressive of his true character, 
which is that of a humane, chivalrous, high-minded, and 
brave man. I then thought, and still think him the finest 
looking officer I ever saw. 

Behind the General and his staff, was another detachment 
of lancers, followed by a band of music ; then came the 
soldiers in divisions. First were the "veteranos," or soldiers 
of the line, in a uniform of white pantaloons and jacket, a 
little black cap with a red ball perched in fi:ont, a species of 
network knapsack, a blanket thrown, toga-like, over one 



176 NICAEAGUA — ^NAUEATIVE. 

shoulder, and a musket resting on tlie otlier. This is tlieii 
whole equipment ; they require no tents, baggage, or provi- 
sion wagons. If it rains, they throw their blankets over their 
shoulders and the locks of their muskets, turn their panta- 
loons up to their thighs, and march on. At night they roll 
themselves in their blankets, and lie down anywhere. A 
plantain and a bit of cheese, or tortilla, or a cup of tiste^ con- 
stitute their simple rations, and on such fare they will march 
forty and fifty miles a day, through a country where an equal 
European or American force would not average ten. This 
body of "veteranos," marched with great precision and in 
good order, and was followed by the new recruits, who were 
rather a hard looking set, dressed in every variety of cos- 
tume, and not particular about keeping in line or marking 
step. Some wore only pantaloons and hat, the latter not 
always of the most classical model ; some had long legs to 
their breeches, some short, and some none at all ; but they 
all seemed to be in good spirits, and ready for almost any 
thing which might turn up. They bowed frequently, beck- 
oned, and sometimes spoke to acquaintances amongst the spec- 
tators, — ^improprieties of which the "veteranos" were never 
guilty. In fact, the latter, who were almost entirely Indians, 
seemed as impassible as men of bronze. Amongst the oflS.- 
cers in the General's staff I observed a full-blooded negro ; but 
his features were as regular as those of any European. He 
afterwards distinguished himself by his bravery and fidelity, 
rand was promoted in consequence. 

' Upon the entrance of the procession into the plaza, al- 
though it was broad daylight, a series of fireworks and rock- 
ets were let off, which produced a great noise and smoke, but 
none of those brilliant results for which they are got up 
amongst us, and of which the people here seem to have no 
idea. The primary object appeared to be to make a great 
noise, and in this they were perfectly successful. 

That afternoon, a division of troops, which had been sent 



BRIGHTER PROSPECTS. 177 

out tlie previous day, to break up a party of insurgents, 
who had concentrated at the Indian pueblo of Diriomo, came 
in, having effected their object, and bringing a number of 
prisoners. Among them was one of Somoza's lieutenants, 
who was pinioned, and marched in at the point of the bay- 
onet, A litter followed, bearing a wounded soldier, half of 
whose face had been shot away in the encounter, presenting 
a shocking spectacle. 

Before night, it became evident that a decided hand had 
now the control of affairs ; men were despatched to bring 
down the boats sent for safety to " Los Cocos ;" scouts de- 
tached to gather information ; a new regiment of enrolled 
men ordered to report themselves under arms next morning ; 
and a proclamation issued, guarantying the safety of all those 
arrayed against the government who should come in and 
surrender their arms. The patrols were doubled, and that 
night we were treated to an extra number of "alertas," from 
watchful sentinels. In the evening a council was held, to 
which all the leading citizens, whatever their previous differ- 
ences, were invited, and where the General himself set the 
example of patriotic forbearance and fraternization, by prof- 
fering his hand to men from whom he had been estranged 
for years. The result was auspicious, and the council re- 
solved upon the most prompt and decided action. 

Next morning, before sunrise, as I rode to take my daily 
bath in the lake, I saw the Greneral in the Plaza, wrapped in 
his military cloak, drilling his troops in person. At eleven 
o'clock he paid me a formal visit, accompanied by his staff. 
My previous favorable impressions were more than confirmed 
by the interview. He spoke of the troubles in the country 
.with the regret of a patriot, but the determination of a gene 
ral, and sketched their origin, and the popular demorahza 
tion, boldly and impartially. Upon general topics he was 
familiar, and conversed with force and freedom. He had 

once been in New Orleans, where he had seen Mr. Clay, 

12 



-1-78 NICAEAGUA — ^NAEEATIVE. 

wlio appeared to have left a cliaracteristic impression on his 
mtad. I found him perfectly well acquainted with the origin 
and progress of the Mexican war, and with the relative parts 
sustained in it by the American officers. Upon the subject 
of British aggressions, he spoke with great bitterness, and in 
a manner which showed how deep and ineffaceable were the 
feelings of hatred which they had engendered. These ag- 
gressions, he said, made at a time when the country had 
begun to recover from its distractions, and when its more 
patriotic and intelligent citizens, before expatriating them- 
selves in despair, were making a last effort in its behalf, and 
for the restoration of quiet and good government, were 
crimes against humanity not less than against the State. 
Just as the government had succeeded in reforming the army 
and restoring public confidence, when all its resources were 
wanted to carry out its new and enlightened policy, it found 
itself involved in a foreign controversy, shorn, on the shal- 
lowest pretexts, of half its territories, its revenues cut off, and 
all its energies crippled by a nation professing to be the most 
enhghtened and philanthropic in the world ! He had often 
felt dispirited, but had struggled on in the vague hope that 
the condition of the country might attract the sympathy and 
secure the good offices of other nations in its behalf,' — ^as he 
now beheved it had done those of the United States. The 
present disturbances, he added, had been directly charged 
upon the English, but however that might be, that people 
was directly responsible for its consequences ; for the insur- 
gents would never have dared to commit overt acts, whatever 
their disposition, had they not thought that the controversy 
with England had weakened the hands of the government, 
and rendered it almost powerless ; and that in attacking it, 
they would receive some kind of countenance and support 
from British agents, if not from the British Government. _ 

I am thus particular in giving the exact tenor of this con- 
versation, as it was afterwards grossly misrepresented, and 



PIEDEA DEL BOCA.' 



179 



made the subject of not over-polite, but very characteristic 
official correspondence, on tlie part of the British agents. 

In the afternoon of this day, the first division of our Cah- 
fornia escort, in a uniform of red shirts, and armed like 
brigands, made their appearance. They reported that the 
remainder had stopped for the night at the town of Masaya, 
in order to visit the extraordinary lake at that place, and 
would come on in the morning. The march of the General 
had cleared the roads, and as our arrival at the capital was 
anxiously expected, I determined to leave Granada at the 
earliest possible moment, and made my arrangements accord- 
ingly. 

In the evening I visited a singular relic of antiquity, called 
the "piedra de la boca," the stone of the mouth. It is planted 




"PIEDRA DE LA BOCA." 

on the corner o. one of the streets leading to the Jalteva, and 
consists of a large and singularly carved stone, which had 
been brought here by a curious " marinero," from an island in 
the lake. The accompanying engraving will convey a better 
idea of it than any description, and will explain why it bears 
its present name. It now projects about three feet above the 



180 NICAKA&UA — ^NARKATIVE. 

ground, and is two feet broad by one and a half in thickness. 
I liad made diligent inquiry for '■'■piedras antiguas^'' ancient 
stones, but got very little information concerning any, — 
no information, in fact, except from an old priest and some 
boatmen, wlio represented tbat many were to be found on 
the island of Ometepec, and on the large uninhabited island 
of Zapatero. I had, however, no time to visit them now, 
but made a note of them for afuture occasion. At the "es- 
quina," or corner of the old Convent of San Francisco, was 
another" piedra antigua," called '•'■ BlGhiflador^'' the whist- 
ler. It had been much broken, and the head and upper part 
of the body were entirely destroyed. The fragments which 
remained showed that it had been well and elaborately 
carved. Tradition says that, when it was perfect, its mouth 
was open, into which the blowing of the wind made a mourn- 
ful, whistling noise, exciting suspicions that it was the incar- 
nation of one of the ancient " demonios" of the Indians. The 
pious padres demolished it in consequence ; but probably 
less on that account than because they often found offerings 
before it, which the superstitious Indians had deposited 
during the night time. Another figure stood, and probably 
still remains at the south-eastern corner of the great Plaza, 
carved in black basalt. It represents a human figure, with 
jaws widely distended, and protruding tongue. Upon the 
head is crouched the representation of some kind of wild 
animal, of the cat kind. It is comparatively small, but well 
carved, and bold and striking in its outlines. This, and " el 
ohiflador" were brought from the island of Zapatero. 

During the day, the remainder of the American division 
arrived at Granada. Including my own party, we mustered 
twenty-five strong, each man withal a walking arsenal. Two 
days were devoted to rest and visiting, and the morning of 
the third of July fixed for our departure. The evening pre- 
vious, our baggage was packed in carts, and sent ahead, 
ander the escort of a detachment of lancers. 



CAKTS AND " CARRETEROS." 181 

In the inhabited parts of Nicaragua, where the country is 
entirely level, or but slightly undulating, carts are almost 
universally used for the transportation of goods and the 
natural products of the country. They are exceedingly rude 
contrivances, but seemed to meet every reqjiiisition. The 
body consists of a stout frame-work of wood, and the wheels, 
as I have already said, are solid sections, cut from some large 
tree of hard wood, usually the mahogany. These are not 
sawed, but chopped into shape, and with an eye rather to 
use than to symmetry or beauty. The oxen, which are 
compact, active, and hardy animals, are not fastened in a 
yoke, as with us, but to a bar passing across their foreheads, 
and firmly lashed to their horns. Two pairs are the usual 
complement of a cart, but sometimes three pairs are used. 
When the " carreteros" have far to go with heavy loads, an 
extra yoke or two is either led or driven along, to be used 
in case of accident, and to relieve the others when tired. 
Two men are attached to each carreta ; one armed with his 
machete^ or a gun, goes ahead, to clear away obstacles, and 
to indicate the path, for the oxen are trained to follow him ; 
while another either walks behind or rides in the cart, and 
has a long pole pointed with an iron spike, with which he 
" touches up", the animals if they are inclined to loiter or be 
lazy. This kind of admonition is accompanied by shouts to 
them collectively or individually, for each one has a name, 
and with epithets more forcible than elegant. So the ap- 
proach of a cart is often known while it is half a mile or more 
distant; not solely by the shouts and maledictions of the 
" carreteros," but by the awful squeaking and shrieking of the 
wheels, which never fail to set the strongest nerves in a 
quiver. The roads in Nicaragua are lined with fragments of 
broken carts, here a wheel split in pieces, and there an axle 
broken in two. The axles are the first to fail, and therefore 
every cart carries two or three extra axles, in reserve for 
emergencies. If, however, the carretero should be unpro- 



182 



NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 



vided, he selects the first hard wood tree of the proper size 
which he can find, makes a new axle, and in half an hour is 
on his way again. The loads which are carried in these wide 
vehicles are almost incredible. Twenty-five hundred pounds 
is the standard freight, and is carried from twenty-five to 




HIDE-COVERED CART IN NICARAGUA. 

forty miles a day, depending somewhat upon the season. 
The morning, from three and four o'clock until eight or ten, 
and again in the evening from four until nine, are the usual 
hours for moving, for then the air is comparatively fresh and 
cool. Bach cart carries a certain amount of " sacate " and 
corn for its animals, and their masters bivouac by the road- 
side wherever night overtakes them. The oxen are fastened 
to trees, the men light a fire and cook their coffee, and after- 
wards wrap up their heads in handkerchiefs, and if it is the 
dry season, swing their hammocks between two trees and go 
to sleep. It usually happens that two or more carts go in 
company, for mutual aid in case of accident, and then their 



CAHRETEROS — DEPARTURE. 183 

encampments, upon wliich the traveller often comes suddenly 
at niglit, are liiglily picturesque. On such occasions, some 
swing carelessly" in hammocks, others recline on the ground, 
and others busy themselves around the fire, whUe all smoke 
with unbroken energy. Half the night is sometimes spent 
in card playing, by fire light ; and bursts of laughter and 
snatches of song startle the sleepy traveller jogging through 
the forests, and are answered by the growls of the wild 
beasts or the howls of the "mono Colorado." They are stal- 
wart, jolly fellows, these " carreteros," and like the " arrie- 
roSj" or muleteers of Mexico, invincibly honest. Merchants 
never hesitate in entrusting the most valuable goods to their 
care, and I believe no instance is known of their proving 
faithless to the trust reposed in them. On the contrary, the 
poor fellows, when attacked by robbers, as they sometimes 
are, will fight to the death in defence of their carts. Like 
the " marineros" on the lake, they constitute an almost dis- 
tinct class of citizens, and in the city of Leon live in a certain 
" barrio," or ward, that of San Juan. Some of them have a 
large number of oxen and carts, which they sub-let to the 
poorer members of the fraternity of "carreteros," among 
whom exists an esprit de corps which will permit no under- 
bidding or other irregular practices. 

The morning of our departure came, and agreeably to in 
structions, Ben roused us at early dawn. We were individu- 
ally ready to move at sunrise ; for, although we only pro- 
posed to go to the city of Managua, a distance of fifty miles, 
the first day, we wished to take the journey leisurely, as be- 
came travellers in a new and strange country, Don Frede- 
rico, as our old friend. Monsieur Sigaud, at San Juan, had 
done before, smiled incredulously when we talked of an early 
departure ; but, as the horses and mules were positively en- 
gaged to be at our door at sun-rise, and as the man who let 
them was a person of mark, and an old Spaniard to boot, we 
felt a good deal of faith in our plans. The sun rose, and 



184 NICAEAGUA — NAERATIVE. 

after walking up and down the corridor, in heavy boots, with 
clanking spurs, for half an hour, with a growing conviction 
that we were somewhat verdant, we were called to breakfast. 
Don Frederico looked provokingly good-natured, and when 
Ben, who had been despatched to stir up the laggard " em- 
■prestador^'' returned, with the news that the men had only- 
just gone to hunt up the animals in the fields, he laughed 
outright, and so did we, notwithstanding our vexation. We 
shortly found that our escort was no better off ; their horses 
had not yet come in. So we all went to the plaza, and sat 
until past nine o'clock, witnessing the drilling of the new 
recruits. All things must have an end, and so did our sus- 
pense. The horses finally came ; and, after a world of try- 
ings on and takings off, pulling here and padding there, the 
beasts were saddled, and we marched to the plaza, where, 
according to previous understanding, we were met by the Gen- 
eral and his staff, and a crowd of citizens on horseback, who 
had gathered to escort us "with all the honors" out of the 
city. My young medical friend from New Haven had won 
the privilege of carrying the flag at the head of the cavalcade, 
and after him, under the marshalling of a stalwart Buckeye, 
who had served amongst the dragoons in the Mexican war, 
the " Californian division" was arranged in column with 
military precision. The troops were all drawn up, and pre- 
sented arms as we defiled by, under a discharge fi-om the 
cannon in fi-ont of the " Cuartel Gleneral." The people lined 
tne streets, and shouted as earnestly for " los Estados Uni- 
dos del Norte," and its representative, as they did for the 
"esclarecido Greneral," upon his arrival a few days before. 

I could not help thinking of the figure which our singular 
cavalcade must have cut in the eyes of an uninterested specta 
tor, nor resist smiling at my own part in the affair. It, how- 
ever, was a bona fide ceremonial, and so received and valued. 
As we approached the arsenal, we found its garrison on the 
<iu% Vive; a little wreath of smoke shot up, and boom went the 



A BAD MULE FOR A GOOD HORSE. 185 

caunon tliere. Altogetlier this was more imposing tlian our 
departure from San Carlos, and not a whit less entertaining. 

I was mounted on a large wHte mule, which the emjpresta- 
dor had specially recommended to me as " muy manso j 
comodo" very gentle and easy ; but which I soon found was 
an old broken-winded beast, and a villanously hard travel- 
ler. The General observed that I had been taken in, and 
glancing round, fixed his eyes on the dashing horse of a 
young fellow, deputed by the government to accompany us 
on our march as commissary and provider. Directly he 
stopped short, and ordered him to dismount and change ani- 
mals with me. The order was promptly obeyed, — for there 
was no parleying with the General ; and although I thought 
the proceeding rather summary, I was too glad to get rid of 
the mule to offer the slightest objection to the arrangement. 
Besides, the deposed horseman should have provided us with 
better animals — of course he should ! j 

Our escort accompanied us about two miles, to a point 
where the short cut, or mule path, to Masaya diverged from 
the camino real ; and here, after a profusion of bows, an 
interminable shaking of hands, and "buenasviajes," and 
" Dios guardes," in every tone and emphasis, we separated 
from the crowd, and went on our way alone. The path was 
narrow, and led through bush and brier, under gigantic 
trees, draped all over with vines, down into dark ravines, 
where the sun's rays never reached, over ridges covered with 
grass, with here and there clusters of luxuriant trees, gemmed 
all over with fragrant flowers, where we could catch views 
of the glittering lake, with its distant shores, and several 
islands. Thus we went, in Indian file, the red shirts and 
gleaming arms of the men giving life and relief to the scene, 
and making the noisy parrots, which fluttered beside the path, 
stiU more noisy ; while brightly colored birds glanced in and 
out of the thick green coverts, or a startled deer bounded 
hurriedly before us ! Altogether, the novelty, excitement, 



186 NIOAEAG-UA — KARRATIVE. 

and beauty filled me with that wild delight wHcli only the 
Arab feels, or the free Indian on his prairie ocean, and one 
hour's enjoyment of which were "worth ten years of quiet 
life !" My chest expands, and every nerve becomes tense, 
even now, while I write, at the recollection of that glorious 
morning, and that march to Masaya. Occasionally we came 
upon a cane house, nestled in some quiet glen, or upon some 
beautifal slope, surrounded by palms and plantains, and 
fields of tobacco and maize, in the doors of which stood 
women and knots of frightened children, who gazed wonder- 
ingly upon our strange party. They all seemed reassured 
when we cried out " adios amigas !" and responded with 
" Dios guarde a Ustedes, caballeros !" " Grod preserve you, 
Sirs !" At about six miles from Granada, we reached the 
highest point of ground between that city and Masaya ; one 
of those ridges of land which seem to radiate like the legs of 
a lobster from the great volcano of Momobacho, and which 
are, for the most part, destitute of trees. From this point 
we obtained our finest view of Lake Nicaragua, the river, or 
estuary of Tipitapa connecting it with Lake Managua, and of 
that lake itself, hemmed in, upon the east, by the high irreg- 
ular mountains of Matagalpa and New Segovia. Between us 
and the lakes was a magnificent slope, leagues on leagues in 
extent, a sea of dense tree-tops, unrelieved, so far as the eye 
could discover, by a single acre of cleared or cultivated 
ground. Yet there were many haciendas and estates, the posi- 
tions of which were indicated by wreaths of smoke rising in 
thin curls here and there above the trees. We dismounted, 
and sat for half an hour beneath a spreading tree, to enjoy 
the prospect, and pay our respects to the canteens of water, 
(diluted with brandy,) with which each man was supplied. 

The path by which we journeyed had been used, from time 
immemorial, for mules and horses, and in many places, par- 
ticularly on the declivities of the swells of land, where water 
had contributed its aid, it was worn deep in the soft rock 



ENTEANCE TO MASAYA. 187 

and compacted earth, and so narrow as utterly to preclude 
all turning around after it had once been entered. Upon 
approaching such places, if their whole extent cannot be dis- 
covered, it is usual to halloo loudly, in order to ascertain if 
any one is approaching ; for if horsemen meet in these places, 
one or the other must back out, — a process sufficiently 
difficult. 

At about one o'clock the more frequent occurrence of cul- 
tivated grounds, of little "hattos" and cane cabins, showed 
that we were approaching the large Indian pueblo of Masaya. 
The path became broader, and showed constant use ; and 
numerous little paths diverged in every direction. Where 
they joined the main road, crosses were in some cases erected, 
on which hung wreaths of faded flowers, perishing tokens of 
pious zeal. We now met and overtook numbers of Indians, 
singly and in groups, carrying netted sacks, filled with ears of 
maize, with vegetables, or meats: some had braided mats, hats 
of woven palm leaves, hammocks, and other articles for sale 
or use. They all silently gave us the road on our approach. 
They seldom spoke unless first addressed ; but then always 
replied politely, sometimes adding, interrogatively, " Cali- 
fornia ? " They were small, but well-formed, with features 
much more regular than our Indians, and of singularly mild, 
a,nd expressive features, and docile manners. 
"^ The entrance to Masaya was by a long and broad street, 
lined on both sides by a forest of fi-uit-trees, beneath which 
were clustered the thatched cane houses of the inhabitants. 
We had previously waited until the rear of our party had 
come up, and now spurred through the streets in a solid col- 
umn. As we went on, the houses became more numerous, and 
occasionally one of adobes, with a tiled roof, appeared amongst 
the frailer structures which I have described. After going 
nearly half a mile, we turned short to the right, and riding 
for a number of blocks in streets precisely resembling those 
of Granada, passing an abandoned convent or two, we gal- 



188 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 

loped into the principal plaza. In tlie centre of this stood 
the great church, a long, heavy building, with a very fair 
fagade and tower, and much exceeding in size any of the 
churches of Granada. On the sides of the plaza were several 
rows of fine shops, with their doors and shutters covered with 
tin ; for more foreign goods are retailed in Masaya than in 
any other town in the State. Its people are regarded as the 
most industrious, and are celebrated throughout all Central 
America for the extent and variety of their manufactures. 
Cordage, hammocks, saddles, cotton cloth " petates" or mats, 
hats, shoes, in short, all the articles of common use in the 
country, are produced here, besides large quantities of dulces 
(sweetmeats and jellies,) which were, at one time, extensively 
exported to Peru and South America. But the shops, in 
consequence of the existing troubles, were shut, and the 
plaza was almost entirely deserted. Kear the dead wall of 
the church a rude chair was standing; it was the fatal 
" hanquetoj'' upon which, a few days before, one of the leading 
" facciosos" of the city, after having been tried and condemned 
by a court-martial, had been shot. Near by the sod was 
turned up, marking the spot where the body of the executed 
man was buried. He had been tried at one o'clock, con- 
demned at two, shot at three, and buried at four. Short 
shrift, indeed; but such is the summary process of martial 
law in Nicaragua, when, as in this instance, the guilt of the 
criminal admits neither of doubt nor extenuation. Some of 
our party had witnessed the execution, which they described 
as very impressive. It was done in sight of the entire army, 
from which a corporal's guard was detached for the service. 
The prisoner was first taken within the church, where he 
confessed and received the sacrament. He was condacted 
to his seat by two priests, a little cross put in his hands, and 
a blessing invoked on his soul. Gruns, in half of which only 
were balls, were placed in the hands of the guard, who fired 
at the distance of ten paces. The man fell dead at the first 



THE CITY OF MASAYA. 189 

discliarge. The example was deemed necessary, and it no 
doubt was so in tliis instance. It should, however, be ob- 
served, that no officer has established a higher character for 
humanity than Greneral Muiioz, who has never stained his 
reputation by any of those butcheries and wanton cruelties 
which have been the rule, rather than the exception, in the 
civil wars of Spanish America. 

"We rode to a posada kept by an exceedingly fat and cheer- 
ful lady, who was so happy that her "pobre casa" should be 
honored by the "hijos de Washington," the sons of "Wash- 
ington ! In a few minutes, several of the alcaldes of the 
town came in, out of breath, and in great tribulation because 
they had not been apprised of our approach. They proposed 
even now to ring all the bells, and were urgent that we 
should stop the rest of the day, so as to give them an oppor- 
tunity of making a demonstration commensurate to the im- 
portance of the occasion. But we pleaded haste, and pro- 
mised to return soon, and thus escaped being lionized in 
Masaya. "We had proposed to stop here several hours, and 
visit the remarkable volcanic lake, from which the town is 
supplied with water, but the delay of the morning compelled 
us to cut short our stay, if we would reach Managua, twelve 
leagues distant, that night. So we only allowed the horses 
to breathe awhile, and then mounted again and resumed our 
march. "We went quite two miles from the plaza before we 
got fairly out of the city, which has some fifteen or eighteen 
thousand inhabitants, and covers full a square league. 

Beyond Masaya is a broad and beautiful avenue, lined on 
either hand by luxuriant fields : in this respect far surpassing 
the country around Granada. This avenue leads to the 
pueblo of Nindiri, and people mounted or on foot passing to 
and fro, gave it an appearance of animation beyond what we 
had hitherto seen out of the towns. About midway between 
Masaya and Nindiri, the road passes over a bubble-shaped 
hill, raised by volcanic forces from below, the uplifted strata 



190 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 

curving with all the regularity of the rainbow. Although it 
would have been easy to have passed around it, yet as the 
Indians before the conquest had probably gone directly over, 
the same path has been continued, for no better reason, ever 
since. It however had been much improved, and a deep 
notch had been cut or worn in the soft sand rock, to the 
depth of forty or fifty feet, resembling very much the deep 
cuts on the lines of some of our railroads. Upon one side, 
in a little nitch, stood a small cross, covered with wilted 
flowers. Beyond this defile, the road resumed its broad and 
level course, and we rode rapidly over its gravelled bed into 
the town of JSTindiri. 

Mndiri! How shall I describe thee, beautiful JSTindiri, 
nestling beneath thy fragrant, evergreenroof of tropical trees, 
entwining their branches above thy smooth avenues, and 
weaving green domes over the simple dwellings of thy peace- 
ful inhabitants ! Thy musical ■ name, given thee long ages 
ago, perhaps when Eome was young, has lost nothing of its 
melody ; Neenda^ water, and Diria, mountain, it still tells us, 
in an ancient and almost forgotten tongue, that thou slumber- 
est now, as of yore, between the lake and the mountain ! 
Amongst all the fairy scenes of quiet beauty which the eye 
of the traveller hath lingered upon, or the fancy has limned 
with her rosy-hued pencil, none can compare with thee, beau- 
tiful Nindiri, chosen alike of the mountain Fairies and forest 
Dryads, of the Sylphs of the lake, and the Naiads of the foun- 
tain ! Mndiri ! 

This little Indian village far surpassed, in point of pictur- 
esque beauty, anything we had yet seen. Oranges, plantains, 
maranons, jocotes, nisperos, mamays, and tall palms, with 
their variously-colored fruits blushing brown or golden 
among the leaves, and here and there a low calabash tree, 
with its green globes strung on every limb, all clustering to- 
gether, literally embowered the cane huts of the simple- 
minded and industrious inhabitants. Indian women, naked 



NINDIRI — AN APOSTROPHE. 191 

to the "vvaist, sat beneath the trees spinning snow-white cotton 
or the fibre of the pita, {agave,) while their noisy, naked httle 
ones tumbled joyously about on the smoothly-beaten ground, 
where the sunlight fell in flickering, shifting mazes, as the 
wind bent the branches of the trees with its unseen fingers. 
Quiet primitive Nindiri ! seat of the ancient caziques and 
their barbaric courts, — even now, amidst the din of the crowd- 
ed city, and the crush and conflict of struggling thousands, 
amidst grasping avarice and importunate penury, bold- 
fronted hypocrisy and heartless fashion, where virtue is 
modest and vice is brazen, where fire and water, and the 
very lightnings of heaven, are the slaves of human will, how 
turns the memory to thee, as to some sweet vision of the 
night, some dreamy Arcadia, fancy-born, and half unreal ! 

We rode through the arched and hedge-lined streets into 
a broad open plaza, in the centre of which stood* a quaint old 
church. A few sleek cows were lying in its shade, chewing 
their cuds in a meditative way, and hardly opening their 
sleepy eyes as we trotted by. Beneath some large trees upon 
one side of the plaza, we descried our carts and their escort, 
taking what at home would be called " a nooning." The 
lances of the men were stacked together, and their horses 
fastened with lariats to the carts, forming, with their gay 
trappings, a striking group, abundantly set off by the reclin- 
ing figures of their riders, who had disposed themselves in atti- 
tudes expressive of the fullest abandonment to individual 
ease. We were not long in joining the party. The officer 
in command, in anticipation of our arrival, had prepared two 
or three jars of " algo fresco," something fresh, delight- 
fully compounded of water, the juice of the cocoa-nut, and 
of the acidulous maranon, — a delicious and refreshing bever- 
age, to which we paid our respects in protracted draughts, 
not forgetting " mil gracias,^^ and sundry medios to a plump, 
laughing Indian girl who dispensed it, in snowy calabashes, 
to the thirsty strangers. 



192 NICARAGUA — ^ITARRATIVE. 

The only part of tiie road wlaicli was supposed to be fre- 
quented by the ladrones was now passed, and although the 
ccmmander of the escort was very willing to proceed with 
the carts, I did not think it necessary, and so it was agreed 
that he should return. This arranged, we all mounted again, 
and the last we saw of our military friend was the gleaming 
lances of his men, and the fluttering of their little red stream- 
ers, as they galloped back through the streets of JSTindiri. 

Beyond the town we struck into the forest, and began to 
ascend one of the slopes or spurs of the volcano of Masaya. 
Occasional openings among the trees enabled us to catch 
glimpses of lake, plain, and mountain, more extended even^ 
and more beautiful than those which we had witnessed in 
the morning, from the heights beyond Masaya. The road 
passed over fields of disintegrating pumice and lava-beds 
ages old, and now covered with accumulated soil and a thick 
forest. At the distance of about a league, however, we came 
to what is called the "waZ ^a^s," literally, the lad country. 
It was an immense field of lava, which at the last eruption 
of Masaya had flowed down from the volcano, for a distance 
of fifteen or twenty miles, in the direction of the lakes. The 
road crossed it on the summit of a ridge running transversely 
to the lava current, where the field was narrow, but spread- 
ing out on both sides to a great distance. It looked like a 
vast plain of cast iron, newly cooled, black and forbidding. 
In places it was rolled up in frowning masses, elsewhere 
piled one flake on the other, like the ice in the spring time, 
upon the shores and low islands, or in the narrow channels 
of our rivers. An ocean of ink, suddenly congealed during a 
storm, if the imagination of the reader can picture it, would 
better illustrate its appearance than anything else which 
occurs to me at this moment. Here and there great, ragged 
masses, fifty or a hundred feet square, had been turned com- 
pletely over by the current as it flowed beneath, exhibiting 
upon the exposed surface a regularly striated appearance, 



VOLCANO OF MASAYA. 193 

like tlie curling fibre of the oak or maple. I dismounted and 
scrambled out amongst the crinkling fragments, but did not 
go far, as tlie sliarp edges and points cut tlirougli mj boots 
like knives. At one place I observed "wbere tlie half-cooled 
lava had wrapped itself, layer on layer, around a large tree, 
which, subsequently burning out or decaying, had left a per- 
fect cast of its trunk and principal branches, so accurate that 
the very roughness of the bark could still be traced. But 
what struck me with most surprise was the circumstance that 
the flood of lava had flowed over the narrow ridge where I 
was standing, and that a depression existed between me and 
the volcano whence the molten matter had come. It was 
clear enough that the popular adage and axiom about the 
indisposition of water to flow up hill, does not always apply 
to lava. The explanation of the phenomenon may perhaps 
be found in the fact that the surface of the lava cooling, is 
thrown off in fragments, building walls on either side, be- 
tween which the lava current continues to flow, until rising 
high, and the vertical pressure becoming great, it breaks 
through the barrier, and discharges itself laterally. Or, the 
intermediate valley being filled by the melted substance with 
a rapidity which would not admit of its finding its level at 
once, it is easy to understand that it might discharge itself 
over the ridge ; and the supply subsequently ceasing, the 
accumulated matter in the valley, spread out laterally and 
subside, in the manner here exhibited. 

Not a tree intervened between me and the volcano, only 
the broad, black and rugged waste of lava. I could therefore 
distinctly see the mountain, and trace the ragged outlines of 
its ancient and principal crater. This latest discharge of 
lava, however, does not seem to have been made from this 
mouth, but from a lower elevation, upon the slope of the 
volcano. This elevation had a reddish, scoriaceous appear 

ance, and its crater, one side of which had been broken down 

13 



194 NICAKAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 

by tlie lava, was comparatively small. In fact there were a 
number of orifices, or craters, at other points, wMcli bad been 
tbe vents in previous eruptions. It was evident enough that 
there had been hot work here in past times, although every- 
thing looked quiet enough now. 

The early chroniclers have a great deal to say about this 
volcano, which was called ''''El Infierno de Masaya^^'' the Hell 
of Masaya. Its last eruption, when the lava field which I 
have described was formed, occurred within the historical 
period, in 1670. No detailed account of it has ever been pub- 
lished, although there is little doubt that it was duly recorded 
by some of the ecclesiastics of the country, whose relations 
still exist amongst the archives of the Church in Spain or Italy. 

Since this final eruption, the volcano has been in a dor- 
mant state. It was visited in 1840 by Mr. Stephens, who 
discovered no signs of activity. Yet, at the time of the Dis- 
covery, it was regarded as one of the greatest wonders of the 
New World. The chronicler Oviedo visited it in 1529, and 
has left us a very complete account of its appearance and 
condition at that period. He says : 

" There is another mountain in this province, called Masaya, of which I 
can speak as an eye-witness, having visited it in person, after having heard 
many fables related by those who pretended to have ascended to the cra- 
ter, I once went up Vesuvius, and beheld a crater of twenty-five or 
thirty fathoms in diameter, from which smoke rose perpetually, which 
smoke people say changes to a very briglit flame at night. I remained 
there a whole night, with the Queen of Naples, whose chief of the ward- 
robe (guarda ropa) I was, whither I accompanied her in 1501. From 
thence we went to Palermo, in Sicily, near which is Mount Etna." 
Oviedo here makes a long enumeration of the volcanoes known at the 
time he wrote, and continues: "But it seems to me that none of these 
volcanoes are to be compared with that of Masaya, which, as I have said, 
I have seen and examined myself. Of this the reader shall be the judge, 
after he has read the description of that mountain, whose name signifies 
' the burninc^ mountain,' in the language of the Ohorotegans, in whose ter- 



VOLCANO OF MASAYA. I95 

ritory it is situated. In the language of Nicaragua it is called ' Popo- 
gatepec,' -wliich means ' boiling stream.' ' 

"I wiU now relate what I saw. I left the village of Managua, July 
25, 1529, and spent the night at the house of Diego Machuca [who, we 
have seen, was the first explorer of Lake Nicaragua], being half a league 
from the foot of the mountain, on the shores of Lake Nindiri. I de- 
scended the same day to examine the lake ; and the next, which was 
St. James' day, I started before the rising of the sun to ascend the 
mountain, and behold the flame, and the other extraordinary things 
worthy of mention. This mountain is very steep, and is surrounded by 
Indians of the Chorotegan nation. Tigers, Uons [pumas], and many other 
ferocious animals abound here. Beyond this mountain stretches an un- 
cultivated plain, which the Spaniards have named el malpads. It is cov- 
ered with rocks, resembling scorias. In this an isolated mountain rises 
up to the height of a league from foot to summit. The mountain may be 
three or four leagues in circumference at its base, and is entirely differ- 
ent from those in its neighborhood. I know that many Spaniards 
have sent descriptions of this mountain to the emperor ; and that others, 
on their return to Spain, have given out what they have seen, whose rela- 
tions I do not doubt. On the contrary, I rejoice that I am to speak of a 
matter so well known, and that there is no lack of witnesses who can 
attest the truth of my recital. Many of those who pretend to have visited 
this mountain have only seen it from a distance ; and but few have as- 
cended it. Some assert that the light of the flame is sufficiently strong to 
read by, at the distance of three leagues, which I cannot confirm. 

" I left the house of Machuca in the middle of the night, as I have be- 
fore mentioned, and I had nearly reached the summit at sunrise. It 
was not, however, h'ght enough for me to read my prayers (breviary), 
which I had brought with me, when I was within a quarter of a league 
of the summit. Yet the night was very dark, in consequence of which 
the flame appeared more briUiant. I have heard persons worthy of credit 
say that when the night is very dark and rainy, the light firom the crater 
is so vivid that one can see to read at the distance of half a league ; 
this I wiU neither affirm nor deny, for at Granada or Salteba, when there 
is no moon, the whole country is illuminated by the flame of the volcano; 

' This is a mistake of the chronicler. Popo or poco is the Mexican for 
smoke, and tepee mountain, i. e. " Smoking Mountain." Ca or ga is a 
word used to impersonate, embody, or individualize. It wiU shortly be 
seen that a Mexican colony existed in Nicaragua. 



196 NICAEAG-UA — ^NAERATIVE. 

and it is a fact that it can be seen at the distance of sixteen or twenty 
leagues ; for I have seen it at that distance myself. However, we cannot 
call that which proceeds from the crater precisely a flame, but rather a 
smoke as bright as a flame ; it cannot be seen at that distance by day, but 
only at night, as I have said. » 

"But to return to my journey; I was accompanied by a cazique 
whose baptismal name was Don Francisco ; in the Chorotegan language 
he was called Natatime ; also by a negro and two faithful Indians. Al- 
though the negro was a safe man, I acknowledge that I was wrong to 
put myself in such company ; but I made up my mind to do so from the 
desire I had to succeed in this enterprise. I had found Machuca sick ; 
those who were to accompany me had broken their word, and returned 
to G-ranada; yet I was not willing to suspend my journey, so great was 
my desire to learn what truth there might be in the relations of those who 
pretended to have been there. When it was no longer possible to go on 
horseback, I dismounted, and put sandals of wood on my feet, for shoes 
would not answer for such a road. I left one of the Indians to take 
charge of my horse, and went forward with the cazique, who served us 
for a guide, and who, with the negro and the other Indian, I made to go 
before me. When the cazique arrived near the crater, he sat down, fifteen 
or twenty paces ofij and pointed out to me with his finger the frightful 
spectacle. The summit of the mountain forms a plateau, covered with red, 
yellow, and black rocks, spotted with divers colors. Except on the east- 
ern side, where I stood, the whole plateau is occupied by a crater, whose 
orifice is so large, that in my opinion a musket ball could not traverse it. 
There proceeds from it a continual smoke, but not so thick as to pre- 
vent one from examining it both internally and externally ; for, as the 
east wind blows continually here, ib bears the smoke away to the oppo- 
site side from the spectator. This crater is, to the best of my judg- 
ment, and of those whom I have heard speak of it, about one hundred 
and thirty fathoms in depth ; the width continually diminishing as it 
descends. This mountain is not as high on its southern and eastern 
sides as on the others, and looks hke human workmanship, so regular 
are its outlines ; excepting, however, the side where I was, which, as I 
have before mentioned, is covered with rocks. There were also some 
caverns, but one could see little or nothing but their entrances; and the 
sides of the crater could scarcely be seen ; for no one durst advance suf- 
ficiently near. 

"At the bottom of the crater could be seen a place perfectly round, 
and large enough to contain a hundred cavaliers, who could play at 



VOLCANO OF MASAYA. 197 

fencing and have more than a thousand spectators; it would hold even 
more than that, vcere it not for another crater in the middle of it, in- 
chning a httle to the south, which can be very distinctly seen. It 
appeared to me to be from forty to sixty fathoms in depth and four- 
teen or fifteen paces in circumference. It might be much more ; for I 
viewed the opening from a very high point, and the depth from a still 
higher point. On the north side, the crater is three times as far from 
the interior wall of the volcano as on the south side. 

" Happening to be at ValladoHd in 1548, at the court of the prince 
N. S. Don Eodrigo de Oontreras, who was once governor of this province, 
he told me that the depth of the volcano had been measured in his 
presence, and found to be one hundred and thirty fathoms ; and from 
the bottom to the burning fluid, forty fathoms more ; but a circumstance, 
mentioned to me by the commander, Fr. Francis de Bobadilla, still more 
astonished me, viz. : that when he ascended to the crater of Masaya, with 
some other persons, the holes were in the middle of the place, and the 
burning matter had risen to within four fathoms of the top ; and yet 
six months had not elapsed since my journey. I am of the opinion, 
however, that he told the truth; for besides his being a man worthy of 
belief, I have heard Machuca say that he had seen the burning matter 
rise even with the top. 

" I said that I beheld at the bottom of the second crater a fire, which 
was as liquid as water, and of the color of brass. This fire appeared to 
me more violent than any I had ever seen before, and entirely covered the 
bottom of the crater. From time to time this matter rose into the air with 
great force, hurhng large masses to a height of many feet, as it appeared 
to me. Sometimes these masses were arrested on the sides of the crater, 
and remained there, before becoming extinguished, time enough to repeat 
the credo six times, and then looked like the scoriae of a forge. I cannot 
believe that a Christian could behold this spectacle unmindful of hell, 
and unrepentant of his sins ; particularly whilst comparing this vein of 
sulphur with the eternal grandeur of everlasting fire which awaitS' those 
who are ungrateful to God ! 

" Towards the middle of the first crater, a large number of parroquets 
might be seen, circUng around, of that species having the long tails, and 
called jijaves. I could only see their backs, for I was much higher than 
they. They make their nests among the rocks, below the spectator. I 
threw some stones into the abyss, and made the negro do hkewise, but 
could never distinguish where they fell ; which proves clearly how high 
was the place where I stood. Some persons have asserted that when the 



198 mCAEAGUA — ^NAERATIVE. 

parroquets are fluttering among these places, and one looks fixedly, lie 
seems not to see fire but sulphur. I am not far removed from this opin- 
ion, but leave the decision to those knowing more of the matter than 

myseh". 

" On the top of the volcano, on the eastern part, an elevation rises up, 
in which is an opening like to the crater, but deeper. A smoke ascends 
through it, which cannot be seen during the daytime, but which pro- 
jects into the darkness a great light, uniting itself to that proceeding 
from the larger opening. This opening does not terminate in a broad 
bottom, but is a funnel-shaped orifice, apparently filled with coals. The 
cazique told me that, in the times of his ancestors, the main crater was here, 
but that subsequently it changed its location to the spot it now occupies. 
These two craters are separated from each other only by some rocks. 
The ground is covered with barren trees, yielding no fruit, except one 
alone, which produces yellow berries, about the size of a musket ball, 
named nanzi; they are good to eat, and the Indians say that they are 
good for bowel complaints. No birds are seen on this mountain, except 
crows, and the parroquets I have spoken of. 

" A remarkable circumstance, told me by Machuca and Fr. Francis de 
Bobadilla is, that the melted matter sometimes mounts to the top of the 
crater, whilst I could see it only at a great depth. Having made due 
inquiry in regard to this, I have learnt that when much rain falls, the 
fire does, in fact, ascend as far as the top ; for the cavity becomes filled 
with water, which flows in from all parts of the mountain, and remains 
full until it has been overcome and destroyed by the heat of the opposing 
element. This view of the matter is confirmed by what Olaus Magnus 
says of the volcanoes of Iceland, which do not consume the combusti- 
bles around them, but the water which they contain. It must be so at 
Masaya ; for when the flame is seen at the distance of a league and a half, 
it does not look hke flame, but burning smoke which covers the whole 
mountain. If it were fire, it would leave neither tree, leaf, nor verdure ; on 
the contrary, the whole mountain is covered with trees and herbage, almost 
to the borders of the crater. 

"I spent two hours here, gazing and drawing, till ten o'clock; it was 
the day of St. Anne ; I then resumed my route to G-ranada, or Sal- 
teba, which is three leagues from Masaya. Not only in this city, but 
even at the distance of two leagues beyond it, the volcano gave as much 
light as the moon some days before she fuUs. 

" I have heard the cazique of Tenderi [Nindiri] say that he has often 
gone, in company with other caziques, to the edge of the crater ; and that 



VOLCANO OF MASAYA. 199 

an old woman, entirely naked, has come forth from it, with whom they 
held a monexico, or secret counci). They consulted her in order to know 
if they should make war, or decUne or grant a truce with their enemies. 
They did nothing without first consulting her ; for she told them whe- 
ther they were to conquer or to be conquered : she told them also, if it 
were about to rain; if the harvest of maize would be abundant ; and, in 
fine, all future events. And every thing always came to pass just as 
she had predicted it would. On such occasions, a man or two, some 
women, and children of both sexes, were sacrificed to her ; the victims 
offering themselves voluntarily. He added that since the Christians came 
into the country, the old woman had appeared only at long intervals ; 
that she had told them the Christians were wicked ; and that she did not 
wish to have any communication with the Indians until they had driven 
the Christians fi:om then- country. I asked him how they got below. 
He answered that formerly there was a road ; but that the cavity had 
been enlarged by the caving in of the land around it, and thus the path 
had been destroyed. I asked him what they did after their council with 
the old woman, and what was her appearance. He repUed that she was 
old and wrinkled ; that her breasts hung down over her belly ; that her hair 
was thin and erect; that her teeth were long and sharp as a dog's; 
her skin of a darker color than Indians ordinarily have ; eyes fiery and 
sunken ; in short, he described her as like the devil, which she must have 
been. If this cazique told the truth, it cannot be a matter of doubt that 
the Indians were ia connection with him. When the council was over, 
the old woman entered within the crater, and never came out except to 
a new counciL The Indians often converse al)Out this superstition, and 
many others ; and in their books they represent the devU with as much 
leanness and with as many queues as we are in the habit of painting him 
at the feet of the archangel Michael, or the apostle St. Barthelemy. I 
am of the opinion, therefore, that they have seen him, and that he has 
shown himself to them; since they place his image in their temples, 
where they perform their diabolical idolatries. On the side of the crater 
of Masaya there is a large heap of cups, plates, and basins, of excellent 
crockery, made in the country. Some had been broken, others were en- 
tire. The Indians had brought them there filled with all kinds of meat, 
and left them, sayiag they were for the old woman to eat, in order to 
please or appease her when an earthquake or violent tempest takes 
place ; for they attribute to her aU the good or evil that happens to them. 
As to the substance, in which, according to the cazique, this old one made 
her retreat, it appeared to me to resemble glass, or the metal of bells in 



200 



inCARAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 



a state of fusion. The interior -walls of the crater are of hard stone in 
some places, but brittle almost eVerywhere. The smoke goes from the 
crater on the eastern side, but it is driven towards the west by the breeze. 
A small quantity of smoke comes out on the northern side of the crater. 
" The mountain of Masaya is six or seven leagues from the South Sea, 
and about twelve and a half degrees from the Equator. I have now 
completed aU I promised to say in this fifth chapter." 

Oviedo also gives us a long and entertaining account, at 
second hand, of tlie descent of the Fray Bias del Castillo 
into the crater of Masaya, and what befel him there. This 
will be found translated in another place. 




MAOHETE-CALABOZO. MAOANA. 



CHAPTEE YIII. 

MAGNinCENT VIEWS OF SCENEKY — " RELOX DEL SOL" — JOHN JONES AND ANTIQUI- 
TIES — AN " ALARM ;" REVOLVERS, AND A RESCUE — DISTANT BELLS — DON PEDRO 
BLANCO — MANAGUA — ^ANOTHER GRAND ENTREE — OUR QUARTERS — SUPPER 
SERVICE — ENACTING THE LION — VIRTUES OF AGUARDIENTE — AN " OBSEQUIo" 
OR TORCH-LIGHT PROCESSION IN HONOR OF THE UNITED STATES — A NATIONAL 
ANTHEM — NIGHT WITH THE FLEAS — FOURTH OF JULY AND A PATRIOTIC BREAK- 
FAST — SAINT JONATHAN — LEAVE MANAGUA — MATEARES — PRIVILEGES OF A 
"cOMPADRe" — LAKE OF MANAGUA — A MAGNIFICENT VIEW — THE VOLCANO OF 
MOMOTOMBO — ^A SOLITARY RIDE — GEOLOGICAL PUZZLE — NAGAROTE THE POSA- 
DA — MULES ABANDONED — ^A SICK CALIFORNIAN — DINNER AT A PADRe's — THE 
SANTA ANITA — ^VIRTUES OF A PIECE OF STAMPED PAPER — ^A STORM IN THE 
FOREST — PUEBLO NUEVO — FIVE DAUGHTERS IN SATIN SHOES — UNBROKEN 

SLUMBERS — ^ADVANCE ON LEON AXUSCO — A FAIRY GLEN — THE GREAT 

PLAIN OF LEON — A " TOUCH" OF POETRY — MEET THE AMERICAN CONSUL — A PRE- 
DICAMENT CAVALCADE OF RECEPTION — NEW ILLUSTRATION OF REPUBLICAN 

SIMPLICITY — ^EL CONVENTO ^A METAMORPHOSIS — THE BISHOP OF NICARAGUA — 

FORREST, MISS CLIFTON, MR. CLAY — CRITICISM ON ORATORY — NINE VOLCANOES 

IN A ROW — ^DISTANT VIEW OP THE GREAT CATHEDRAL THE CITY — IMPOSING 

DEMONSTRATIONS — THE GRAND PLAZA — ^A PANTOMIMIC SPEECH AND REPLY — 

THE LADIES, " GOD BLESS THEm!" HOUSE OF THE AMERICAN CONSUL — END OF 

THE CEREMONIES — SELF-CONGRATULATIONS THEREON — ^A SERENADE — ^MARTIAL 
ASPECT OF THE CITY — TROUBLE ANTICIPATED — PRECAUTIONS OF THE GOVERN- 
MENT. 

Beyond the " mal pais" the road passed over a beautifal 
undulating countr j, with, occasional open, grassy spaces, dot- 
ted here and there with little clumps of bushes and trees, 
from whence the eye caught glimpses of the distant lakes 
and mountains. For many miles, scoria and disentegrating 
lava showed the extent of volcanic action in ancient .times ; 
in fact, for the whole distance to Managua, volcanic traces 



202 NICARAGUA— NAREATIVE. 

and products were to be seen on every hand. Half way be- 
tween Masaya and Managua we came suddenly upon a large, 
erect stone, which, at first glance, I supposed was one of the 
" piedras antiguas" of the country ; a veritable monolith, like 
those discovered by Mr. Stephens at Copan. It however 
proved to be " un relox del sol," an ancient sun dial, erected 
by the early Spaniards for the double purpose of marking 
the distance and the hours. There had been an inscription 
upon it, but it was obliterated now, and a rude cross had 
been deeply graven in its place. I dismounted to examine 
it more closely, and found " John Jones" scratched upon one 
of its sides. Ubiquitous " John Jones !" He had been con- 
victed of bigamy, and sent to the State prison but two days 
before I left New York ! W. inquired if " Jones" was an 
Aztec name, and I felt cheap enough about " monuments," 
and was mounting again in great disgust, when we were all 
startled by the sudden discharge of a pistol, in a dark ravine 
which we had just passed, followed by a confased shout, and 
another discharge, and then a volley in quick succession. 
An attack, in the present unsettled state of the country, was 
by no means an impossibility ; and the firing continuing, we 
turned our horses' heads and galloped back, weapons in 
hand, to the rescue. A moment brought us within view of 
half a dozen of our party, their horses plunging in dire con- 
fusion, while their riders fired their revolvers with the great- 
est rapidity into the forest. Glancing amongst the trees, we 
discovered the enemy, a troop perhaps thirty or forty strong, 
crashing amongst the bushes, in full retreat. It was a squa- 
dron of large, yellow monkeys upon which the party had 
fired, in frolicksome mood, with a design rather to alarm 
their comrades than injure the monkeys, who escaped with 
no further damage than a prodigious fright, sufficient to last 
them for the remainder of their natural lives. The cacchina- 
tory exercises following upon such a feat over, we all moved 
on together. The road was deeply shaded, but broad and 



A GRAND ENTREE. 203 

smootli ; and, as the sun went down, conversation gradually 
ceased, and the horses, invigorated by the cool atmosphere, 
all fell into a rapid pace, the clatter of their hoofs alone dis- 
turbing the silence of the evening. 

Hark, a bell ! the sound vibrating even into the depths of 
the leafy forest 1 It is the oracion^ and we are near Managua. 
But it was nearly an hour before we emerged into the open 
fields surrounding the city, and then it was so dark that we 
could discern nothing except the lights of the houses, and 
the occasional gleaming of the lake beyond. 

Here we were met by Don Pedro Blanco, to whom I was 
specially recommended by Don Frederico. He had come to 
put his " pobre casa" at my disposition. Don Pedro was for 
doing things in a grand way, and accordingly desired us to 
wait for all the stragglers to come up, so as to make an im- 
posing entree, which we did, at a round pace, to the great 
alarm of the infantile, and the utter indignation of the ca- 
nine portion of the population. It was too dark to see much 
of the town, and I only remember interminable streets lined 
with huts and low houses, a big church with a spectral white 
archway in front, and a great plaza flanked by two or three 
two-story buildings, with another large church in its centre. 
All this was out of our way, for Pedro was determined to 
impress us with the magnitude of the town, and I began to 
think that it had no end, when suddenly Pedro turned short, 
ducked his head, and dashed beneath the "Porteria" into 
the 'patio or court yard of his own house, whilst our escort 
filed off, at a tearing rate, for the public posada. Fortunate 
escort ! 

Don Pedro's house was not the most aristocratic in the 
place, nor yet the cleanest, although his wife was amongst 
the fattest and fairest. It had but two rooms, and one of 
these was a tienda^ or store, where our hostess dispensed can- 
dles and candy, dry goods and dulces, toys and tobacco, 
vegetables and medicines, in quantities to suit purchasers. 



204 NICAEAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 

Here a couple of new hammocks were fortHwith swung, into 
wHch. we rolled without ceremony, and with all the satisfac- 
tion of tired men. Pedro's grand entree had almost finished 
us ; but he had considerately ordered supper before leaving 
home, and I almost forgave him the awful trot he had given 
us, when I saw the cloth spread and the savory dishes make 
their appearance one by one. M., who had never before rid- 
den two consecutive miles on horseback, and who, thoroughly 
" used up," had lain like a log in his hammock, began now 
to show some signs of life, and even sat up and looked vo- 
raciously at the table. I asked for a basin of water before 
sitting down, which Don Pedro produced at once, but pro- 
tested against our washing ourselves then, as it was "muy 
malo," and would bring on the cahntura^ or fever. This 
superstition, I afterwards found, was not only general amongst 
the natives, but also amongst foreigners resident in the coun- 
try. I however never regarded it, and yet escaped the 
calentura. 

Pedro's supper was well enough served, only there were 
neither knives nor forks. Ben supplied these from his al- 
forjas, and we got on very well, or rather might have done 
so ; but before we had fairly taken the edge off our appetites 
we heard a great uproar in the direction of the plaza, suc- 
ceeded by the firing of guns and the whizzing discharge of 
bombas. I glanced round at our host, who so far from ex- 
hibiting any alarm seemed to be mightily exultant. I had 
made up my mind to be surprised at nothing, and so asked 
no questions. Meantime the tumult increased, and the 
squeaking of violins was to be heard in the pauses of the 
shouting and firing. By-and-by we distinguished ^^Vivanlos 
Estados UnidosI" " Vtvan los Americanos del Norte P^ and the 
appalling consciousness was forced upon us that we were to 
be lionized forthwith, and supper but half finished ! I ap- 
pealed to Pedro to shut the door and say we were ill, and 
would see the people in the morning ; but he either did not 



AK OBSEQUIO. 205 

understand, or affected not to do so, and before I could ex- 
plain, tlie crowd was at the entrance, and pouring into our 
apartment. Tlie alcaldes came first, and a dozen fiddlers fol- 
lowed. Then came the people in solid column, while the out- 
siders kept up a perfect storm of vivas, — their upturned, swar- 
thy faces looking singularly wild and forbidding under the 
Hght of their torches. Not a tithe was able to enter, yet ev6ry 
one seemed determined to find a place inside, and crowded 
one upon the other to such a degree that we should have 
been suffocated outright, had not the alcaldes formed a cor 
don around us, and kept off the crowd with their canes. 
The principal or first alcalde, made a speech, full of welcome, 
and well spiced with patriotism, in which he called us, and 
all the people of the United States, collectively and individ- 
ually, friends and brothers, and a great many other endear- 
ing names, which I have forgotten ; and then everybody 
wanted to shake hands, and thrust them forward over the 
heads and under the arms of the front rank, a hundred at a 
time. But as our visitors generally did not seem to have any 
clear conception as to which of the party was the illustrious 
object of their homage, I instructed my companions to shake 
all the hands within their reach, and pass the owners on. In 
this wise, and by causing Pedro to invite the entire crowd to 
drink my health, at my expense, at the next pulperia^ I 
finally succeeded in clearing the house, — ^but our chocolate 
was cold, and some of our worthy visitors had availed them- 
selves of the " noise and confusion " to pocket all the baked 
meats. And as we sat disconsolately waiting for more to be 
cooked, we voted the system of lionizing a bore, and M. 
quoted Shakspeare : 

" Uneasy lies the head that wears a crown," 

with variations suited to our present condition. 

The idea of getting the crowd off to the pulperia we all 



206 NICAHAGUA — NARRATIVE. 

thouglit was a particularly liappy one ; but tlie sequel proved 
otherwise. In half an hour our admiring jfriends, greatly 
augmented in numbers, all returned ; and if they were fer- 
vent and enthusiastic before, what were they now? I ap- 
peared on the steps of the house and bowed low, and retired. 
But bows wouldn't answer. Nothing short of a grand pro- 
cession would furnish an adequate vent to the overflowing 
feelings of the citizens. Pedro begged for my flag, while 
messengers were despatched to the Californians at the po- 
sada, to solicit their participation in the grand " obsequio." 
Pending the completion of the arrangements, the crowd con- 
tinued to increase, completely choking up the street for an 
entire block. The confusion was dire ; the violinists played 
as if working for their lives, while bombas were let off as fast 
as they could be collected. Finally, the Californians, re- 
freshed by an ample supper, made their appearance, and at 
once fell into the spirit of the affair. The flag was unfurled 
at the head of the column, surrounded by an armed guard of 
honor ; next came the officers and the musicos, and then, as 
the programmes at home say, " the citizens generally." The 
procession marched through all the principal streets, hurrah- 
ing at every corner for "Bl Norte," the "bello sexo," "Gen. 
Taylor," the " Supreme Grovernment," in fact fornearly every- 
thing, but particularly for the " glorious flag of the North." 
The national anthem was sung in the plaza, the multitude 
joining in the chorus with almost frantic fervor, and then the 
Californians were called upon to sing the national air of the 
United States, but being unable to give it to their own satisfac- 
tion, they sang " Dearest May" instead, with great applause, 
and as Pedro afterwards told us, "con mucho espiritu," 
with great spirit ! 

It was full midnight when the " obsequio" was brought 
to a close, and our dispositions made for the night. And 
such a night ! I had now my first introduction to the kind 
of bed in common use in the country, and which I verily 



A NIGUET WITH THE FLEAS. 207 

believe was instituted as a punisliment for tlie sins of tlie 
people. It consists of an ox-hide drawn, while green, tightly 
over a stout framework of wood, and afterwards elaborately 
polished, so as to look like the head of a drum, When dry, 
a slab of marble is a soft and downy thing in comparison 
with it. It was on such a bed as this, with a smooth and 
gaudily colored " petate," or mat, and a single sheet spread 
over the hide, that I was invited to repose. I examined this 
new instrument of torture narrowly, and finally turned in, 
with heavy misgivings, particularly as I found that Pedro's 
mansion was full of fleas, which had already set my nerves 
on a gallop. I was weary enough, but it was impossible to 
sleep — ^the fleas came in hungry squadrons, and the hide bed 
grew momentarily more rigid and obdurate. I felt my own 
pulse ; it was up to the fever rate, and I began to wish Don 
Pedro and Don Frederico to regions unmentionable for get- 
ting me into such a scrape. A bed on the ground, with my 
saddle for a pillow and the sky for a roof, would have been 
luxury itself, compared with this. I got up, unbarred the 
door, and went out on the corridor. The cool evening air 
was most welcome, and I vowed audibly not to go inside 
again. So I roused Ben, who strung me a hammock be- 
tween the columns of the corridor, in which I succeeded in 
getting an hour or two of slumber. 

When morning came, I told Don Pedro that it was the 
anniversary of American Independence, and that it was 
meet and becoming to breakfast with the rest of the Ameri- 
cans at the posada. And leaving Ben to bring round the 
animals and baggage, I got away as fast as possible from 
Don Pedro's hospitable but awfully flea-infested dwelling. I 
found the posada a very nice place indeed, and had the sat- 
isfaction of learning that each one of the Californians had 
had a comfortable cot or camp bed, with only a reasonable 
amount of fleas. 

We all breakfasted together, and drank patriotic toasts, 



208 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 

and sang Yankee Doodle, and were altogether appropriately 
patriotic, to the great delectation of the quidnuncs of Mana- 
gua, who gathered in crowds around the open doors and 
windows. They were properly instructed as to the nature of 
"the day we celebrated," that it was the great feast of St. 
Jonathan ; whereupon they hurrahed for the saint, and even 
proposed to ring the church bells in his honor. But fearful 
of another " obsequio," we discouraged this idea, and made 
all haste to get off as quietly as possible. 

At eight o'clock we were in the saddle. It was a gorgeous 
morning, and the lake of Managua flashed brightly in our 
eyes as we rode through the grand plaza. The opposite 
shore was dim and distant, but high and rough in outline, 
while nearer, a volcanic ridge, or succession of volcanic peaks, 
projected boldly into the lake, forming a sort of bay, at the 
head of which Managua was situated. A broad, well-beaten, 
and level avenue led out from the city, lined on both sides by 
forests, into which paths diverged in every direction. The 
road was filled with men and women going to their day's 
labor in the fields ; and from their cheerful, frank air and 
manner, it was easy to see that we were beyond "war'^ 
alarms." At the distance of two leagues we came to the 
foot of the ridge which I have already mentioned, rising 
abruptly before us. Here, under a gigantic cebia, girths 
were tightened, and preparations made for the ascent, which 
is by a broad path, partly cut in the hill and built up with 
masonry. This road was constructed by Gen. Munoz, to 
avoid the circuit of the camino real, or cart road, and is cre- 
ditable to its originator. The ascent was laborious, but the 
toil was repaid by the views which we caught of the lake 
and its shores, from places where the precipices allowed no 
foothold for trees, and whence the eye roamed freely over 
league upon league of forest and undulating hills, terminat- 
ing in the blue belt of Chontales and New Segovia. It was a 
singular position to be thus perched on the face of a cliff". 




VIEW OF LAKE, EKOM BEACH AT MANAGUA. 




THE EOAD TO NAGOEOTE. 



MATEAEAS — A " COMADEE." 211 

Avitli liigli, black, and frowning volcanic rocks on one kand, 
and a precipice, skeer and yawning, upon tke otker. 

After winding about for kalf an hour, we reached tke 
summit, from wkick, upon tke otker side, tke land fell off in 
a gentle slope. Tkis is tke only kill or mountain to be en 
countered in tke wkole lengtk of Nicaragua, between tke 
lakes and tke Pacific ; and tkis may be avoided by taking 
tke circuit of tke cart road. From tke summit, two kours 
and a kalf of kard riding, over a beautiful country, brougkt 
as to tke little village of Mateares, distinguisked as being 
utterly destitute of a single object of interest. It is a sort of 
kalf-way kouse in tke journey from Grranada to Leon, and 
kas a miserable posada or two, wkere coffee and tortillas may 
be obtained ckeaply, and fleas gratis. "We divided our party 
between tke two rival establiskments, and ordered water and 
sacate for tke animals, preliminary to undertaking tke kot 
and unprotected ride of tkree leagues upon tke sandy skore of 
tke lake, wkick came witkin tke next stage of our journey. 
Don Enrique Pallais, a Frenckman, domesticated in tke 
country, a man of large experience and a kind keart, wko 
was of our party, kad kis " comadre" in tke posada wkere 
we stopped, wko embraced kim affectionately as we entered. 
Ske was exceedingly pretty, witk a mild, sweet face, and as 
ske was apparently tke mistress of tke mansion, I felt a little 
scandakzed to find Don Enrique on suck familiar terms 
witk ker; but ke explained this extraordinary relation of 
" comadre" and " compadre," to my entire satisfaction. He 
kad been sponsor at tke baptism of ker ckild, a little yellow 
ckap just tottering about tke kouse, and kad tkereby as- 
sumed tke relation of compadre — a kind of second kusband, 
witkout, kowever, any marital rigkts beyond tke privilege of 
an embrace at meeting, after tke manner I kad witnessed. 1 
afterwards observed tkat tke fervor of tke embrace bore a 
pretty exact ratio to tke good looks of tke senora. Tke fact 
is, I am a "compadre" myself now, and tke relation brings 



212 NICAEAGUA — ^NAREATIVE. 

to mind a girlisK little creature, singing softly to her baby, 
at tMs very bour I dare say, somewhere amongst tbe bills of 
San Salvador ! 

At Mateares tbe traveller turns suddenly to tbe rigbt, and 
descending a steep bank comes at once upon tbe sbore of tbe 
lake. For two or tbree miles a belt of trees intervenes 
between tbe water and tbe cliff, beneatb wbicb passes tbe 
broad, gravelly road. I bad gone^abead of my companions, 
wbo were deeply engaged in tbe concoction of lemonades at 
tbe posada, and bad tbis part of tbe ride alone. I took off 
my bat, and throwing tbe rein upon my horse's neck, gave 
myself up to tbe silence and the scene. The air was literally 
loaded with fragrant odors from a hundred varieties of flow- 
ers, which blushed amongst the green thickets on every 
band, while tbe waters of the lake flashed here and there be- 
tween the trees like silver bars ; and brilHant birds, noisy 
parrots, and dignified macaws in fiery plumage, looked down 
upon me in a familiar way, as if I were an old acquaintance. 
Several portly iguanas, wbo were enjoying themselves 
amongst the loose gravel of tbe road, seemed to be doubt- 
ful whether they should turn out, or force me to do so ; and 
when they did leave the path, it was in a very leisurely man- 
ner, and with an expression equivalent to " what a gringo, to 
be riding at noonday, and disturbing respectable iguanas !" 

After riding about a league, the belt of forest terminated 
in a a few gigantic cebias, and beyond was a broad beach, the 
bare cliff rising abruptly on one side, and the lake spreading 
out on tbe other, without as much as a shrub to break the 
fervor of the tropical sun. Here a party of muleteers, return- 
ing from Leon, were taking their noonday siesta, while tbe 
mules straggled about at will, nibbling the green bushes. 
Here too, for the first time, came fully in sight the great 
volcano of Momotombo, with the conical island of Momotom- 
bita in front, and the broken cones of the volcano of Las 
Pilas upon its flank. The foreground of rocks and trees, the 



SHORE OF LAKE MANAGUA. 218 

strolling mules and reclining figures, completed a picture 
unsurpassed, in point of novelty and beauty by any whicli I 
had seen before, or have witnessed since. Its predominant 
featm-es are very imperfectly conveyed in the accompanying 
drawing, subsequently taken from the same point of view. 

The muleteers sat up as I rode by, answering my " adios 
Senores" with "buen viaje, Caballero," and then fell back 
in the sand again, and drew their sombreros over their faces. 
The sand of the beach w^ fetlock deep, and covered all over 
with white and rose-colored pebbles of pumice-stone. I 
spurred my horse up to the water, and dismounting led him 
along its edge, amusing myself by tossing the light pebbles 
out upon the tiny waves, and watching them come tipping 
back again, buoyant as corks. Hundreds of wild fowl, 
cranes, herons, and water-hens lined the shores, or stood so- 
liloquizing on the rocks and sand-spits which projected into 
the water. They had the courtesy to give me the road 
as I walked along, but hardly anything more ; and only 
ejaculated " cluck !" when I shouted at them, which I sup- 
pose meant "don't be kicking up a row here, at noonday." 
In fact I began to think that all nature, animate and inani- 
mate, had entered into a grand compact to take a quiet 
snooze at this precise hour every day. The lake itseK 
seemed dreaming, and the smoke from Momotombo rose in 
such a sleepy way, that I almost felt drowsy in watching it. and 
should certainly have lain down in the sand and taken a nap, 
had there been a tree or bush to protect me from the hot sun. 
My only alternative was therefore to jog on, which I did 
u.ntil I came to a place where the cliff projected forward 
almost to the water's edge. Here I paused, and looked back 
for my companions, but they were not to be seen. 

Beyond this point the lake formed a little bay, and rocks 
worn into fantastic shapes by the water supplanted the sandy 
beach. These rocks seemed to be composed of a kind of 
volcanic breccia, for fragments of pumice-stone, bits of primi- 



214 NICARAGUA— NAEEATIVE. 

tive rock, and an occasional large piece of trachyte were vis- 
ible in the wliite and slightly porous masses. Yet, at a little 
distance, stratified sand rock appeared, overlying the breccia, 
and anon a vein of basaltic or trachytic rock, or a frowning 
heap of rough, black, and blistered masses of these materials, 
superimposed on the sand rock or conglomerate, would com- 
pletely confound my uneducated notions of geological pro- 
priety. I presume all this apparent confusion is of easy 
explanation amongst those versed in the natural sciences ; 
and if (as is more than likely) these can make nothing out of 
my description, they had better go there and examine for 
themselves. Greologically, as well as geographically and 
topographically, there is no more interesting region than that 
of Nicaragua, nor one which can better repay the investiga- 
tions of the student of nature. 

I continued beneath the broiling sun for nearly a league 
further, passing through patches of chapparal, or thorny 
bushes, resembling the willow in the shape and color of their 
leaves, which found a precarious hold amongst the rocks and 
in the barren sands. Beyond these the track divided, one 
branch running up a ravine into the woods, and the other 
keeping along the lake. I was at a dead loss as to which to 
take, and did not much relish the idea of sitting there solus 
until the party came up. While in this perplexity I heard 
the crowing of cocks in the direction of the ravine, and riding 
in, soon found myself in a broad path which led to a cluster 
of huts, situated so as to command a full view of the lake, 
without being seen from the shore. I despatched one of the 
ninos, under promise of the magnificent reward of one medio, 
to watch for my companions, and tossing the bridle to a mozo, 
walked into the best hut and took possession of the best ham- 
mock, which a motherly old lady undertook to swing back- 
ward and forth for me, while I should endeavor to compen- 
sate myself for my broken slumbers of the preceding night. 
Sleep came without coaxing, and I had a grand siesta there 



NAGAROTE AND ITS POSADA. 215 

amongst those kind Indians. I was roused by our comi- 
sario, who was hurrying on to order dinner for us at Nagarote, 
and I determined to push on with him. He had seduced one 
of the party to take his old mule, and had now got the best 
horse in the company, my own excepted. It was a sharp 
proceeding, as will be seen in the sequel. 

The ride to ISTagarote was a fine one ; in places the road 
came down to the lake, and then wound back again amongst 
the hills, affording a most agreeable diversity to the traveller. 
At one place we reached a small valley, at the bottom of 
which flowed a limpid, rippling little stream — the only one we 
had encountered since we left Grranada. The ground was beaten 
hard, and the underbrush removed over a wide space, for this 
was a famous resting place with the carreteros and arrieros. 
Two or three little groups of travellers were now waiting 
there, mixing their cups of tzste from the stream, while 
their animals were left to roam at discretion. They invited us 
to join them, but with the prospect of a good dinner only 
one league ahead, we declined, and galloped on, and on, until 
I began to think that our going to Nagarote was a grand 
flam, or that the town itself had walked off. That famous 
league we ever aftewards distinguished as the " five mile 
league." We nevertheless finally came to Nagarote, a little 
scurvy looking town, redeemed by but one really good look- 
ing house, which I was glad to learn was the posada. The 
landlady was " fat and forty," and welcomed us right cor- 
dially ; she liked the Americans, she said ; they had " mucho 
dinero," much money, and paid double what other folks did, 
without, grumbling. I ordered the best dinner she could 
afford for the entire party, and then took to the hammock 
again, to catch another installment of sleep. It was full 
an hour before the remainder of the party came dropping in, 
one by one, for the order of march had been completely 
broken up, after leaving Matearas. Dinner was almost ready, 
but yet three or four were missing. Finally these arrived, 



216 NICAEAGUA— NAEEATIVE. 

two of them on foot, and holding one of their companions in 
his saddle. He was the verdant young gentleman who had 
exchanged his horse for the mule of the comisario, which 
had completely broken down some two or three leagues back, 
and had been abandoned in the woods. He had attempted 
to walk the rest of the way, but the exercise brought on 
chills and fever. He was put to bed, bathed with brandy, 
and wrapped in blankets, and having perspired freely, came 
on next morning, all the better apparently for the attack. 

I dined with Don Enrique, at the cane-built house of a 
poor priest, with whom he was acquainted. The padre was 
absent, but his housekeeper, a tall, pale woman, with large, 
expressive black eyes, welcomed us very cordially. She had 
about her some fifteen or twenty little children, collected 
from the poorest families, to whom she taught reading and 
writing. Her humble dwelling was destitute of a single 
article of luxury or embellishment, unless a finely painted 
face of the Yirgin, suspended over a little altar in an inner 
room, can be called such. I asked her if she was paid for 
her pains ? She shook her head, and her eyes kindled and 
her brow expanded, as she slowly raised her face to heaven : 
her reward was there. How little do the sectaries and bigots 
of our own country know of the devotion, and fervent, 
unselfish piety of many of those whom they so unsparingly 
denounce as the impure ministers of a debased rehgion ! 
When I last passed through ISTagarote, I called to see the 
gentle teacher, but the hut was deserted, and rank weeds 
were growing around it. I inquired for her at the posada ; 
the old lady did not answer me, but her eyes filled with 
moisture. The Santa Anita was dead ; she had gone to the 
reward for which she had striven ; the reward of the meek 
and the lowly in spirit ! Shall I confess it ? The heretic 
stranger dropped a tear to the memory of the Santa Anita. 

"We experienced great tribulation in Nagarote in getting 
animals to replace two or three of the scurvy mules which 



VIRTUES OF A GOVERNMENT ORDER. 217 

had been imposed upon us in Granada, and wliicli were liere 
unanimously condemned. We told the man whom the em- 
prestador had sent with them, that he must supply their 
places ; but he couldn't. All the horses and mules in the 
place had been sent to the fields, to prevent their being 
seized for the use of the army. " No hay, Senor !" there are 
none, was the invariable response to our inquiries. But we 
were bound to get on; so I instructed our comisario to 
produce the government order, which he carried in his 
pocket, and take it to the first alcalde, with my compliments, 
and the intimation that horses must be forthcoming, or his 
name should be faithfully reported to the " Grobierno Supre- 
mo." The effect was magical ; horses, and good ones, ap- 
peared incontinently ; whereupon I conceived a high respect 
for the dingy bit of paper which had wrought the miracle, 
and copied it for the benefit of future travellers. Here it is : — 

Sehastian Salinas, Ministro de Relaciones del Supmo. Gdbno. del Estado de 

Nicaragua. 

De orden del mismo, hago saber a todas las autoridades de los pueblos 
del transito de esta Ciudad a la de G-ranada, q. el Sr. Oficial Don Jose Do- 
lores Bermudez, a la cabeza de nueve o diez Norte-Americanos, ya a con- 
ducir a esta dicba Ciudad al Exmo. Sr. Jorge Squier Mntro. Pleinpoten- 
ciario del Grobno. Supmo. de los Estados Unidos del Norte cerca del de 
Nicaragua residente en G-ranada. Ordeno y mando a las espresadas auto- 
ridades del transito q. no les pongan embarazo a dichos Sres, y ademas en su 
regreso con el Sr. Squier le guarden a este los respetos y consideraciones 
q. exije su alto caracter. 

Dado en Leon, Sellado con el SeUo del Estado, en la Casa de Grobno. 

a los 28 dia del mes de Junio, de 1849. 

Lesprestaranlosrecursosquenecesi- ) r -, q SALINAS 

ten previa indennizacion. j L • -J 

It was late in the afternoon, and dark thunder clouds were 
gathering in the east, clustering around the bald, burned peak 
of Momotombo, when we started from Kagarote for Pueblo 
Nuevo, where we were to pass the night. The winds were fitfiil, 
but cool and refreshing, and I unstrapped my poncho and threw 



218 NICARAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 

it over the saddle bow, preparatory to encountering tlie storm 
that was closing around us. It came, fierce and black, before 
we had accomplished a single league of the five which inter- 
vened between the two villages. In an instant we were 
enveloped in the thick darkness, and the rain poured down 
in torrents. We could distinguish each other only when the 
lightnings blazed lividly around us. We left the horses to 
their own guidance, only taking care not to be dragged jfrom 
our seats by the projecting limbs and overhanging branches, 
which constitute the chief source of danger in travelling in 
these countries in the night-time. The road became one pool 
of water, and the unshod horses slipped constantly, in a way 
not at all calculated to quiet one's nerves. By-and-by the 
storm passed, rushing forth upon the expanse of the Pacific, 
and the full moon glanced through the rifts of the passing 
clouds, in a strange, fitful way, momentarily revealing tall 
spectral trunks and skeleton branches, and then leaving us 
in utter darkness. It was a wierd looking forest through 
which we passed, and the entire party seemed to catch its 
gloomy influences, and rode on, for more than hour, slowly 
and in silence. Suddenly, however, the spell was broken by one 
of the number striking up " Hail Columbia ;" the others joined 
spontaneously in the chorus ; and when it was done, a great 
shout was given, and every horse was spurred into a gallop, 
spite of mud and water, nor was a rein drawn until, emerging 
from the forest, we found ourselves saluted by a myriad 
dogs in the streets of Pueblo ISTuevo. Here we were met by 
two or three Americans who had started with the escort, but 
had been left here in charge of one of their number who had 
been injured by a fall. Anticipating our arrival, they had 
secured places for us in the village, quartering one detach- 
ment here and another there, in true military style. The 
house assigned to me and my personal companions was the 
most imposing and aristocratic mansion in the place, inas- 
much as it was twice as large as any other, plastered with 



PUEBLO NUEVO. 219 

mud, and wliite-waslied withal. It was occupied by a well- 
dressed Senora and her five daughters, all attired in their 
finest. array, with satin slippers, and their dark hair newly 
braided, and tipped out with a bunch of variegated ribbons. 
Upon one side of the principal apartment was an immense 
hollowed log, which was the granary ; and upon the other a 
wax figure of Christ on the cross, surrounded by weeping 
Marys and bearded Eomans, superabundantly tinselled ; the 
whole enclosed in a large glass case, hung round with chap- 
lets of fresh flowers. The five daughters were evidently put- 
ting their best feet foremost, but seemed to be greatly per- 
plexed as to which was " El Ministro." Bespattered with 
mud, wayworn and weary, none of the party looked particu- 
larly imposing, and I thought I could discover symptoms of 
disappointment amongst the senoritas. They nevertheless 
were attentive, and gave us cigaritas all round, and brought 
coals in a silver cup for us to light them by ; and what was 
better, they gave us a capital supper, with knives for three, 
and forks and spoons for four of the eight who sat down at 
the table, which was rather more than the usual allowance. 
Before we had finished, however, the alcalde came, but we 
declined talking until supper was over ; and meantime the 
municipal dignitaries perched themselves on the big log, and 
looked at us in silence. We were getting very indifferent to 
official attentions ; and so dismissed our visitors with all 
practicable expedition, but with a great profusion of compli- 
ments, which they seemed to relish mightily. 

I got a bed with a canvass bottom, and slept dreamlessly the 
entire night, and until eight o'clock the next morning. The 
atmosphere was all the clearer for the storm of the preceding 
evening, and the village looked particularly bright and cheer- 
ful under the morning sun. Differing from the other towns 
which we had passed, each house was here surrounded by a 
hedge, or rather fence, of the columnar cactus, which in some 
places was low and even, but in others shot up to the height 



220 NICAEAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 

of fifteen or twenty feet, resembling palisades, above wbicli 
just appeared tbe tbatched roofs of the dwellings. " A 

great country, this, " said W , "where they plant their 

fences !" 

We were now within eight leagues of Leon, and, with the 
whole day before us, were not so expeditious in our move- 
I ments as we might have been under other circumstances. 
We breakfasted leisurely, and departed with becoming de- 
! liberation. Beyond Pueblo Nuevo, the road, as usual, was' 
I through a forest, with here and there open spaces called 
}^ jicarales,^^ from the jicara, or calabash trees, that were scat- 
tered over them, and which in size, and the appearance of 
the leaves and fruit, resembled the apple trees at home. 

The broad and well beaten road, hard and smooth from the 
rain of the preceding night, was lined with palms and trees 
covered with blossoms, which loaded. the air with their rich 
perfumes, and from which the white and rose-tinted petals 
fell like snow, beneath the touch of the cool morning breeze. 
Here a group of monkeys looked dowrf on us with queer 
grimaces — ^there a flock of parroquets, nestling ^perdu amongst 
the leaves, dashed wildly away upon our approach, while 
pigeons, and red-legged partridges graciously condescended 
to step out of the way and allow us to pass, without, how- 
ever, exhibiting the slightest degree of alarm. Hundreds of 
lizards, bright green and gold, darted like rays of light before 
us ; and large ants, each bearing a fragment of a green leaf 
above its back, marched across the path in solid columns, like 
fairy armies with their tiny banners. Their nests, built in the 
forks of the trees, resembled large bee-hives, and their paths, 
from which all obstacles were removed, for the width of sev- 
eral inches, could be traced by the eye in every direction 
amongst the bushes. 

We rode briskly along, and in less than two hours came to 
a ravine, shut in by high banks, and descended by a series of 
steep steps which would have been deemed utterly impractica- 




NATIVE HOUSE IN PUEBLO NUEYO. 



THE KAVINE OF AXUSCO. 223 

ble a- home, but wliicli seemed to be quite a matter of course 
to the horses here. This place was called Axusco ; and the 
ravine once entered, it was picturesque beyond description. 
The soil seemed moister than on the higher ground, and the 
verdure was correspondingly rich and dense. Masses of 
vines, leaves, and flowers were piled one on the other in the 
utmost luxuriance, and the shadows fell with a breadth and 
depth seen nowhere except under the tropics, and rarely 
equalled even there. It was a suspicious place nevertheless ; 
and one or two dilapidated crosses, hardly visible amongst 
the undergrowth, showed that it had been the scene of tragic 
events, of robbery and murder. I afterwards often passed it 
in the night, but never without my hand on my sword-hilt. 

We rested awhile at Axusco, then spurring up the oppo- 
site bank, resumed our march. The same forest shut us in, 
but paths, diverging here and there to distant estates and 
haciendas, gave evidence that we were approaching the city 
of Leon. Finally we arrived where the trees became more 
scattered, and through occasional openings we caught con- 
fused glimpses of broad fields, green hills, and towering vol- 
canoes. These glimpses revealed a section of country sur- 
passing in its capabilities any we had yet seen. I hurried 
on impatiently, and in a few moments, emerging from the 
forest, the great plain of Leon opened grandly before me ! 

I had left my companions behind, and stood alone on the 
borders of this ocean of verdure. Stretching away, che 
quered with hedge-rows and studded with tree clumps and 
tall palms, the eye traversed leagues on leagues of green fields, 
belted with forests, and bounded on the right by high moun- 
tains, their regular cones rising like spires to heaven, while 
low hills of emerald circled round on the left, like the seats of 
an amphitheatre. In front the view was uninterrupted, and the 
wearied eye sought in vain to discover its limit. A purple 
haze rested in the distance, and beneath it the waves of the 



224 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 

great Pacific rolled in, unbrokeiily, from China and tlie 
Indies ! 

It was the beginning of the rainy season, and vegetation 
had shot up in renewed youth and vigor ; no dust had yet 
dimmed the almost transparent green of the leaves, nor had 
the heat withered the delicate blades of grass and spires of 
maize which carpeted the level fields, nor the young tendrils 
which twined delicately around the branches of the trees, or 
hung, blushing with buds and flowers, from the parent stem. 
Above all shone down the glorious sun, and the whole broad 
expanse seemed pulsating with hfe beneath its genial rays. 

Never before had I gazed upon a scene so grand and 
magnificent as this. Well and truly has the ancient chron- 
icler described it as "a country plain and beautiful, full of. 
pleasantness, so that he who fared therein deemed that he 
journeyed in the ways of Paradise." The impression pro- 
duced upon my companions, who had in the meantime 
joined me, was not less striking than on myself. We had 
heard much of the great plain of Leon, but the reality far 
surpassed the anticipations which we had formed of its 
extent and beauty. As we rode on, however, we were sur- 
prised to find that, although a great quantity of land was 
cleared, not more than half of it was really under cultivation ; 
a remark which we had subsequently frequent occasion to 
make, for agriculture, since the independence, owing to the 
unfortunate condition of the country, has very much de- 
chned. 

We had anticipated some kind of demonstration upon our 
arrival in Leon, and remembering our plight at San Carlos, 
had fixed upon " El Convento," about four miles from the 
city, as the place where we should make the necessary 
changes in our garb, preparatory to encountering the digni- 
taries and citizens of the capital. The convent was yet a 
league in advance, and meantime we wore the soiled and 
mud-bespattered garments with which we had passed through 



PLAIN OF LEON — AN ENCOUNTER. 225 

the storm of the preceding night. We had not gone far, 
however, into the open plain, before we discovered a party 
of horsemen galloping rapidly towards us. As they ap- 
proached, we perceived that some wore military uniforms, 
while the others were dressed as simple citizens. They came 
near, and one of the party, who was evidently an American, 
looked hard at us, and for a moment seemed in doubt. We 
bowed", and would have passed on, but turning short, our 
supposed countryman inquired, in English, if we had passed 
a party of Americans, and the American minister, on the 
road. The question was an awkward one ; I laughed out- 
right, and matters were taking a very ridiculous turn, when 
one of our escort opportunely coming up, introduced us to 
Dr. Livingston, American Consul in Leon, by whom we 
were duly presented to the accompanying of&cers. The 
scene was sufl&ciently ludicrous all round, and I thought the 
seriousness of our new friends was strongly tried. I might- 
have enjoyed the affair very much, had I not been at once 
informed that a large company of gentlemen from the city, 
a hundred or two in number, with the principal of&cers of 
State, and the Bishop of the church, in person, at their head, 
were coming out to meet us. But when it was added that they 
had already passed the convent, and were not half a mile 
distant, I was horrified. I entreated the doctor to ride back, 
and say that we would join them beyond the convent, but 
before the movement could be made, the whole cavalcade 
came in sight, and descrying our group, approached us at a 
gallop. There was no retreat, and we moved on in despair. 
First came the Bishop in his purple robes, splendidly 
mounted, flanked by a group of priests, and followed by a 
train of officers, in uniforms absolutely dazzling in the noon- 
day sun! * * * * * * 
Suffice it to say, we met, and there were congratulations, and 
welcomes, and many fine things said, — and if we did not 
leave a sufficiently distinct idea of republican simplicity on 

15 



226 ' NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 

tlie minds of our new friends, it will be useless for any one 
to undertake it hereafter. They were, however, all well-bred 
caballeros, and with true Spanish j)oUtesse, kept their gravity, 
which, "W. remarked, displayed "extraordinary self-con- 
trol !" I nevertheless observed that some of the younger 
officers had occasion to wipe their faces with their handker- 
chiefs very often, and were long about it. But then it was 
, a hot day, and they had ridden fast. 

I was, however, determined not to enter the city in my 
present plight, and when we reached the convent, excused 
myself, and left the cavalcade to proceed, promising to rejoin 
it in a few minutes. The " convento" was only an Indian 
hut, of which I incontinently, and not in the best of humors, 
took possession, politely turning the family, old ones, babies, 
pigs, and chickens, all out of doors. Ben produced the 
diplomatic suit, which I had not seen since it left the tailor's, 
and displayed extraordinary address in adjusting it. Ten 
minutes sufficed to complete the transformation, but I discarded 
the chapeau, and stuck to the broad-brimmed Panama which 
I had purchased in Granada, much to Ben's dissatisfaction, 
who was bent on retrieving the credit of the legation. 

We overtook the cavalcade a few hundred yards from 
where we had left them. They had halted beneath some 
large trees, and our escort, which had meantime come up, 
we also found on the spot, marshalled in the same order as 
when we left Granada. A dashing young officer rode up to 
me, as I approached, and begged to be permitted *' to carry 
the glorious flag of El Norte," which request was, of course, 
graciously acceded to. Matters now began to take a more 
promising turn, and as per programme of arrangements, I 
. found myself, with Dr. Livingston and the bishop, placed at 
the head of the procession, which formed in column, three 
deep. The Bishop, Don George de Yiteri y Ungo, impressed 
me, from the first, as a man far above the ordinary mark, 
well informed, courteous, and affable, with manners which 



APPBOACH TO LEOJN. 227 

would have graced the proudest courts of Europe. I soon 
found that he had been in the United States, had travelled 
extensively in the Old World, and altogether knew more of 
men and things than could have been surmised of an eccle- 
siastic, however high in station, in this secluded part of the 
world, I was nevertheless taken a little aback, I must con- 
fess, when he inquired of me about Forrest and Miss Clifton, 
and whether they were yet on the stage. He had seen them 
both at the Park Theatre, and had been delighted, he said, 
with their acting, although he had not understood a word 
which they said. I told him that the Park had been burned, 
and that it probably would never be rebuilt, and concurred 
with him in regarding it as a "great pity." Mr. Clay, too, 
he had heard speak, and had felt all he said, without 
understanding his language. " Ah !" eiclaimed the Bishop, 
" after all, there is more in the feeling of the speaker himself, 
and in his manner, than in his words ; — to arouse the sympathy 
of the hearer is the true secret of oratory!" Not bad 
criticism, I thought, for Nicaragua, 

As we advanced over the plain, the cultivated fields be- 
came more numerous, and the evidences of industry more 
abundant. It was with something, I thought, of the spirit of 
prophecy, that the Bishop swept his hand around the hori- 
zon and said, " We want only an infasion of your people, to 
make this broad land an Eden of beauty, and the garden of 
the world," He pointed out to me the nine volcanoes which 
skirted the plain; the gigantic Viejo; the regular Telica; 
the riven Orota, and lofty Momotombo, which now rose clear 
and distinct before our eyes ; these, said he, are the works of 
the Grreat Architect, and that^ the puny achievement of man ! 
I looked in the direction which he pointed, and there rose 
the towers of the great Cathedral, white and massive above 
a wilderness of tiled roofs, foliage, and fruit trees. Not- 
withstanding his philosophical depreciation, I thought there 
was an expression of pride in the face of the Bishop, as 



228 NICARAGUA — ^N-AERATIVE. 

his eyes rested upon this arcTiitectural -wonder of Mcaragua ; 
nor was Ms complacency unwarranted, for tlie Cathedral of 
Leon is a structure not unworthy a place beside the most 
imposing sacred edifices of either continent. 

We now rapidly approached the city, and entered the 
suburbs, which corresponded entirely with those of Grranada 
and Masaya. Here was drawn up the carriage of the Bishop, 
in readiness for use, in case I should prefer it. I however, 
chose to continue on horseback, and the polite Bishop com- 
mended my choice. Passing the Indian barrio, or suburb of 
Guadelupe, the people falling on their knees as the Bishop 
approached, we descended abruptly into a deep ravine, at the 
bottom of which flowed a clear and beautiful stream, and 
ascended upon the other side by a broad, graded way, paved 
with stones, into the city proper. I had merely time to 
observe that the streets were in gala dress, when the thunder 
of cannon, and the sudden pealing of the bells of the churches, 
above which those of the cathedral rose full and distinct, pro- 
claimed our arrival. "Yivan los Estados Unidos del Norte!" 
exclaimed the officer who bore my flag, as he dashed at fall 
speed to the head of the column. The whole party caught the 
spirit, and echoed the "viva," and the Bishop himself waved 
his hand and cried "Adelantamos!" On! I remember but lit- 
tle more, except a confiised sound of trampling horses, shout- 
ing people, the ringing of bells, the thunder of cannon, and a 
cloud of dust, until we rode into the great plaza. Here the 
entire garrison was drawn up, who presented arms and 
cheered for the United States as we entered. The band struck 
up a martial air, and the ladies of the metropolis waved their 
handkerchiefs to us from the balconies of the House of the 
Government. We halted for a moment, and the alcalde mayor 
made a speech, which was delightfully short, but of which, 
amidst the clangor of the bells and the shouts of the multi- 
tude, I heard not a word. I responded in three sentences, 
which I presume were equally unintelligible ; and then we 



HOUSED AT LAST. 229 

moved on, amidst a dense tlirong, to tlie liouse of tlie Ameri- 
can Consul, above wliicli tlie stripes and stars floated proudly 
to tlie breeze. It was with unmingled feelings of satisfaction 
tliat, shaking bands witb tbe Bisbop, and bowing to tbe rest 
of tbe cavalcade, I spurred tbrougb tbe arcbway into tbe 
court of tbe Dr.'s residence, and away from tbe noise and tbe 
dust of tbe crowded streets. But tbe public curiosity was 
not yet satisfied, and tbe people tbronged into tbe courtyard 
to stare at tbe apparition from El Norte. Nor was it until 
tbe gateway was closed. and barred tbat we succeeded in 
escaping from tbe multitude, and even tben tbe iron gratings 
of tbe windows were festooned witb inquisitive boys, wbo 
seemed to bang one to anotber bke swarming bees. Some 
considerate alcaldes, bowever, by a judicious appHcation of 
tbeir canes, finally cleared tbese away, and tben we got an 
bour for privacy and dinner. 

Higb mass bad been said tbe day before in tbe cburcb of La 
Mercedes for our safe arrival, and now a Te Deum was 
cbaunted in tbe catbedral in acknowledgement of tbe protec- 
tion wbicb Heaven bad vouchsafed to us. In tbe evening 
fireworks were let off in tbe plaza, and we were serenaded by 
tbe band attached to tbe garrison, which, to our surprise, we 
found almost as effective as any tbat we had ever heard. 

We found tbat the city was not free from the alarm which 
bad existed at Granada ; and although no outbreak bad 
occurred in this part of the state, tbe government, acting on 
tbe principle that "precaution is the parent of safety," had 
taken tbe most complete measures to guard against surprise, 
and to check promptly the first indications of disorder. The 
roof and towers of the cathedral, an impregnable fortress in 
itself, were occupied by troops ; so too was the church of La 
Mercedes ; and tbe evacuated convent attached to it bad been 
converted into a cuartel of cavalry. It was immediately 
opposite the house of Dr. Livingston, and I observed that tbe 
horses of tbe lancers were kept constantly saddled, in readi- 



230 NICARAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 

ness for action at a moment's warning. Advanced posts of 
troops were also established in every principal street, and 
after tlie eiglit o'clock bell had struck, there was no cessation 
of the fierce " Quien vivas f^^ and wakeful ^^ Alertes /" of the 
sentinels. 

The day subsequent to our arrival was devoted to receiv- 
ing visits from the fimctionaries and leading citizens of Leon. 
Amongst them all, none impressed me more favorably than 
the Presbitero Dr. Disiderio de la Quadra, then Yicar of the 
bishopric, a man of great dignity of manners, and of a char- 
acter above the remotest taint of suspicion. He was accom- 
panied by a number of the dignitaries of th^ church, and 
spoke of his country, its wants, and prospects, with a force 
and freedom which I had little expected to hear. Indeed, I 
soon discovered that the better portion of the population 
folly comprehended the evils under which they suffered, and 
only required that exterior influences should be exercised in 
their favor, instead of against them, as it had been hitherto, in 
order to effect their removal. The revolutionary spirit had 
exhausted itself, and the universal desire was now for peace 
and quiet, stability in public affairs, and moderation in their 
administration. All hoped much from the sympathy and co- 
operation of the United States, and took new energy from the 
circumstance that they had attracted the attention and awak- 
ened the interest of its government. No better evidence of 
the truth of these observations could be desired, than the 
feeling exhibited on the occasion of my official presentation, 
which took place a few days after my arrival, publicly, in 
the hall of the Government House, which was appropriately 
fitted up for the occasion. The proceedings were character- 
ized by the greatest decorum, and a degree of enthusiasm 
which it would hardly be proper for me to attempt to describe. 
Indeed, in introducing my own address on the occasion, with 
the reply of Senor Eamirez, the Supreme Director of the 
State, I am conscious that I am incurring the risk of being 



OFFICIAL RECEPTION. 231 

misunderstood and misrepresented ; but as I liave set out 
with the purpose of vindicating the public sentiment of Nica- 
ragua, not less than of making known the character and con- 
dition of its people, I conceive that I cannot do better than 
to introduce occasional documents of this kind, especially 
when they contribute to the completeness of my narrative, 
and to the understanding of the present posture of affairs in 
that country. 

ADDKESS. 

" Senok Dieector of the Republic of NiOARAGtrA : 

" I have to-day the honor of laying before you my credentials as the 
Representative of the United States of North America, near the Govern- 
ment of this Republic. The personal satisfaction vrhich I feel upon this 
occasion is greatly enhanced by the many evidences v?hich I have already 
had afforded to me, of the friendly sentiments which are entertained by 
the Government and people of Nicaragua towards those of the United 
States. I can assure you, upon behalf of my Government, that these sen- 
timents are fully reciprocated, and that it is its earnest desire to cultivate, 
in every way, the most cordial relations with this Repubhc. Of this the 
oflS.cial letters from the city of Washington, which I have now the honor 
to dehver to yourself and his Excellency the Minister of Foreign Relations, 
will give abundant evidence. 

" It shall be my aim, Sir, in my official and personal intercourse with 
the Government and people of this State, not only to confirm the present 
harmony and good correspondence which exist between the two Repub- 
Hcs, but to create new ties of friendship, and to promote a closer and 
more intimate relationship between them. They, Sir, possess common 
interests ; they both stand before the world the avowed supporters of 
liberal principles, and the vindicators of Republican Institutions ; the true 
policy of both is the preservation of order, and the encouragement of edu- 
cation and industry at home, and the maintenance of peace abroad. It 
is proper, therefore, that they should present an example of that fraternity 
which it is the desire of my Government, as I know it is of your Excel- 
lency, should exist between the two RepubUcs. 

" To this end, and to secure the permanent welfare of both, it is essential 
that they should pursue a system of policy exclusively American. In the 
language of an eminent statesman of my own country, (whose memory is 



232 NICARAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 

reverently cherished, and whose words are treasured with care by every 
American citizen,) ' in order that the fabric of international connections 
between the EepubHcs of this continent may rise, in the lapse of years, 
with a grandeur and harmony of proportions corresponding with the 
magnitude of the means placed by Providence in their power, its founda- 
tions must be laid in principles of politics and morals new and distasteful 
to the thrones and dominions of the elder world, but coextensive with the 
surface of the globe, and lasting as the changes of time.' 

" A cardinal principle in this policy is a total exclusion of foreign influ- 
ence from the domestic and international affairs of the American Eepub- 
Ucs ; and while we would cultivate friendly intercourse, and promote trade 
and commerce with aU the world, and invite to our shores and to the 
enjoyment of our institutions the people of all nations, we should proclaim, 
in language distinct and firm, that the American continent belongs to 
Americans, and is sacred to Republican Freedom. We should also let it 
be understood, that if foreign powers encroach upon the territories or 
invade the rights of any one of the American States, they inflict an injury 
upon aU, which it is aUke the duty and determination of all to see re- 
dressed. 

"SeSor Director! Providence has pecuHarly favored the country of 
which you are the worthy Chief Executive. I have passed through your 
territories from the Atlantic ocean, through your rivers and magnificent 
lakes, along the bases of your lofty mountains, and over your broad and 
beautiful plains, until the wide expanse of the Pacific opens before me, 
and I can almost hear the sound of its waves as they break upon your 
western shores. At every step I have been deeply impressed with the 
capabilities of the country, and the vastness of its internal resources. I 
have seen, also, with pleasure, the many evidences of industry and civiliza- 
tion which exist within your borders, and I have been led to indulge 
the behef that the time is not far distant, when the commerce of two 
hemispheres shall find within your territories an easy passage from sea to 
sea. It is one of the objects of my mission to assist in an enterprise so 
important to the whole world — an enterprise, the successful prosecution 
of which must enable this country to attain a degree of prosperity second 
to that of no other on the globe. With your cordial co-operation, (of 
which I am weU assured,) and of that of the citizens of this Eepublic, I 
hope soon to have it in my power to announce to my G-overnment, that 
the initiatives to this grand and glorious enterprise have already been 
taken. 

" And here. Sir, you wiU permit me to express the profound regret 
which I feel, that I find this Kepubhc afflicted by civil commotions. Botli 



OFFICIAL EECEPTION. 233 

the principles and policy of the United States make us desire that this 
and the other Eepubhcs of Central America should be prosperous and 
powerful. "VVe feel a deep interest in their welfare, but this we know 
can only be promoted by enhghtened and stable Governments. The 
enjoyment of liberty, and the maintenance of individual rights, cannot be 
secured without permanent order, and this can only spring from a sacred 
observance of law. I trust. Sir, that the patriotic citizens of Nicaragua, 
whatever their differences of opinion, will all unite in an earnest endeavor 
to restore peace to the State. Nothing, Sir, could give me personally 
greater satisfaction, and I am certain nothing could be more acceptable to 
the Government and people of the United States, and to the friends of 
Eepubhcan Institutions throughout the world. 

" I will not. Sir, detain you further. I can only reiterate the friendly 
sentiments of my Government and countrymen, and assure your Excel- 
lency, and the distinguished ofl&cers of the State and army around you, as 
also the illustrious Bishop and reverend prelates and clergy, of my per- 
sonal high consideration and regard. Allow me also, through you, to 
return my thanks for the many kind attentions which I have received 
from the magistrates and citizens of the Eepubhc, and to express the high 
pleasure which I have experienced in learning from my countrymen, who 
have lately been detained by unforeseen circumstances in the country, 
the uniform kindness and courtesy with which they have been treated. 
I am proud to learn that the name of American has been a passport to 
every Nicaraguan heart. That the new relations which are this day 
opened between this Eepublic and my own, may result in lasting benefit 
to both, is. Sir, my sincere prayer, and to this end I shall direct my most 
earnest endeavors," 

To this address tlie Supreme Director, SeSor Don NoR- 
BERTO Eamirez, replied as follows : 

EEPLT. 

" Sir, — The satisfaction which I experience in having the honor of re- 
ceiving, for the first time, a representative of the Eepubhc of North Ame- 
rica, is only equalled by the aspirations and high hopes which that event 
inspires. The gratitude with which your words have animated me, the 
extraordinary intervention of your Government under the circumstances 
with which Nicaragua is surrounded, impose on me the pleasing duty of 
returning thanks to Divine Providence for its benefits. 

"Nicaragua has long felt the necessity of sheltering itself under the 



234 JSriCARAGUA — NAERATIVE. 

bright banner of the North American Confederacy ; but the time which 
the Arbiter of nations had designated for such high happiness and conse- 
quent prosperity had not arrived. Before we despatched a Legation to 
the American Miaister at Gruatemala, and even before the treaty relative 
to a canal was entered into with Dr. Brown, (a citizen of your Republic,) 
we had made some advances to the American Government with a view to 
this happy consummation; but our hopes were scarcely sustained by 
their result. But I now see aU the elements of a happy future brought 
before us ; there is good faith in the Government with which I am con- 
nected ; the friendliest feelings towards North America pervades every 
NiOARAGUAN heart ; and we have the assurances of the sympathy and sup- 
port of the American Government. We have consequently all things 
which can be desired to make available the advantages with which Hea- 
ven has surrounded us. Our State, considering its geographical position, 
ought to be the most prosperous in Spanish America ; but our inexperi- 
ence at the time of our separation from Spain — our limited resources, and 
the civil commotions that have intervened, have retarded the happy day 
which is now dawning upon us. I am certain that the Government 
which you represent, can appreciate the difficulties which have surrounded 
this Republic. Tour Excellency being able properly to estimate these 
circumstances, must already have formed a just idea of the condition of 
this part of Central America, and of the position of its Government. 
Believing therefore that the best intentions exist upon your part towards 
us, as I know there is the happiest disposition on ours, I entertain no 
doubts that we shall succeed in establishing the most intimate relations 
between the two Repubhcs, and in opening the way to the consummation 
of that most glorious enterprise which it has been reserved for the succes- 
sors of the immortal Washington to undertake and perfect. I shall have 
the greatest pleasure in being able to contribute my humble share to- 
wards this result, and to the consequent happiness of Nicaragua. I thank 
you, Sir, and through you, your Government, for its proffered coopera- 
tion in so glorious an enterprise. 

" Let us begin. Sir, this great work nnder these bright auspices, and we 
shall be sure of obtaining the best results. The people of the two Ameri- 
can Continents are contemplating us ; it is possible that for what we shall 
do, future generations shall cherish our memory : at least we shall have 
the conscious satisfaction of having neglected no means, omitted no sacri- 
fice, in securing the grand objects so ardently desired by two sister Re- 
publics, determined mutually to sustain their interests, their honor, their 
integrity, and the principles of continental freedom." 



A STRIKING INCIDENT. 235 

An incident occurred, at the close of this reply, which per- 
haps would have startled more rigid sticklers for form and 
etiquette than were assembled on that occasion ; but which 
I mention, for the same reasons that have induced me to 
give place to the above quotations. The Director had just 
concluded his reply, and the entire assemblage was yet still 
and attentive, when a young of&cer, distinguished not less for 
his ardent patriotism than for his bravery in the field, and 
his usefulness as a citizen, Col. Fbancisco Diaz Zapata, 
advancing suddenly beyond the line of officers, commenced 
an impassioned apostrophe to the flag of the United States, 
which, entwined with that of Nicaragua, was suspended 
above the chair of the Executive. The effect was electrical, 
and the whole of the assemblage seemed to catch the spirit of 
the speaker, whose appearance, action, and language were 
those of the intensest emotion. They pressed eagerly for- 
ward, as if anxious to treasure every word which fell from 
his lips ; and when he had concluded, forgetting all other con- 
siderations, their enthusiasm broke forth in loud and pro- 
tracted " vivas," which were caught up and echoed ty the 
people in the plaza, and the soldiers of the garrison. I sub- 
join a Hteral copy of the address: 



SALUTACION A LA BANDERA DE LOS ESTADOS UNIDOS. 

POE SENOR FRANCISCO DIAZ ZAPATA. 

" i Presajio de poder y de grandeza ! 
I Ensena illustre de virtud y gloria ! 
To te contemplo en tu sublime alteza ; 
T al contemplarte siento 
Que de mi Patria ensalzaras la historia. 
Esas franjas hermosas, 
T el emblema feliz de tus Estrellas, 
Que ajitadas del viento 
Ondean y relucen majestuosas 



236 NIOAEAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 

Como astros rutilantes, y mas bellas : 
El hasta fuerte y noble, 
T ese cuadro, del solido figura ; 
Que la herida cerviz ya, no mas doble 
Nicaragua en su triste desventura; 
Eevelanme que baras con tu presencia, 
Rodeada de esplendor y de potencia. 
" Bajo tu sombra, libertad respira 
El activo Varon americano, 
Que la memoria deificar aspira 
De Washington glorioso : 
Bajo tu sombra, se aba soberano 
El poder de las leyes ; 
T el saber y la ventura crecen 
Con vigor prodijioso, 
Que pesa sobre el cetro de los Reyes. 
T los Heroes de America enaltecen 
Su memoria sagrada, 
Sus sepulcros, su sangre de guerreros, 
Y el triunfo de tu espada, 
Bajo el dulce brillar de tus luceros. 
Todo bajo tu imperio tiene vida, 
Portentosa Bandera esclarecida. 
To te saludo de entusiasmo lleno ; 
T henchido de placer y de esperanza, 
Mi corazon palpita dentro el seno 
Con tan fuerte latido, 

Que el pecho ardiente a respirar no alcanzs 
La suave y fresca brisa, 
Del alto Sol los claros resplandores. 
El aire enrarecido, 
De los Oielos la placida sonrisa, 
T el balsamico aliento de las flores, 
Saludante conmigo. 
Celebrando del modo mas plausible 
Tu advenimiento amigo 
A mi Patria doliente y compasible, 
Llenala de tu honor y tu grandeza, 
Y abate a su adversario la cabeza," 



CHAPTEE IX. 

THE CITY OF LEON — ORIGINALLY BUILT ON THE SHORES OF LAKE MANAGUA — 
CAUSE OF ITS REMOVAL — ITS PRESENT SITE — DWELLINGS OF ITS INHABITANTS — 

STYLE OF BUILDING DEVASTATION OF THE CIVIL WARS — PUBLIC BUILDINGS — 

THE GREAT CATHEDRAL — ITS STYLE OF ARCHITECTURE ; INTERIOR ; MAGNIFI- 
CENT VIEW FROM THE ROOF — THE " CUARTO DE LOS OBISPOS," OR GALLERY OK 

THE BISHOPS — THE UNIVERSITY — THE BISHOP's PALACE " CASA DEL GOBIER- 

NO" — " CUARTEL GENERAL" — THE CHURCHES OF LA MERCED, CALVARIO, 
EECOLECCION — HOSPITAL OF SAN JUAN DE DIGS — STONE BRIDGE — INDIAN 
MUNICIPALITY OF SUBTIABA — POPULATION OF LEON — PREDOMINANCE OF INDIAN 
POPULATION — DISTINCTION OF STOCKS — MIXED RACES — SOCIETY OF LEON — 
THE FEiULES; THEIR DRESS — SOCIAL GATHERINGS ; THE " TERTULIA" — HOW 
TO " BREAK THE ICE" AND OPEN A BALL — ^NATIVE DANCES — PERSONAL CLEAN- 
LINESS OF THE PEOPLE — GENERAL TEMPERANCE " AGUARDIENTE " AND 

"it alia" — FOOD — THE TORTILLA — FRIJOLES — ^PLANTAINS — THE MARKETS- 
PRIMITIVE CURRENCY — ^MEALS — COFFEE, CHOCOLATE, AND " TISTE" — DULCES — 
TRADE OF LEON. 



The city of Leon is situated in latitude 12° 25' north, and 
longitude 86° 57' west. As I liave elsewhere mentioned, it 
was founded in 1523, by Hernandez de Cordova, tlie con- 
queror of tlie country and tlie founder of Granada. Its 
original site was at tlie head of the western bay of Lake 
Managua, near the base of the great volcano of Momotombo, 
at a place now caUed Moabita, or, as it is spelled in the 
early chronicles, Ymbita, where its ruins still exist, over- 
grown by trees undistinguishable from those of the surround- 
ing forests. This site was abandoned in the year 1610, for 
that now occupied by the city, which was then the seat of a 
large Indian town called Subtiaba. There is a tradition that 
a curse was pronounced upon the old town by the Pope, 



238 NICAEAGUA — ^NAREATIVE. 

when lie heard of tlae murder there, in 1549, by Hernando 
de Contreras, of Antonio de Valdivieso, tMrd bishop of 
Nicaragua, who opposed the cruelty and oppression towards 
the Indians practised by Contreras, and who, for this reason, 
fell under his anger. In consequence of this curse, it is said, 
the city was visited by a succession of calamities, which be- 
came insupportable ; and the inhabitants, driven to despair, 
finally, on the 2d of January, 1610, after a solemn fast, with 
the flag of Spain and the of&cers of the municipality at their 
head, marched to the site now occupied by the city, and 
there proceeded to lay out a new town. The cruel and 
sacrilegious deed of Contreras is, even yet, mentioned with 
horror ; and many of the people believe that the stains of the 
blood of the bishop, who fled to the church, and died of his 
wounds at the foot of the altar, are yet visible upon its ruined 
walls, a lasting evidence of God's displeasure. 

In- common with Granada, Leon suffered from the attacks 
of the pirates, during their predominance in the South Sea. 
In 1685, a party of English freebooters, amongst them the 
celebrated D ampler, landed in the Estero Dona Paula, and 
advancing rapidly upon the city, surprised and captured it, 
notwithstanding the brave resistance of the little garrison of 
fifty men. They sacked the entire city,. and burnt the cathe- 
dral, the convent of La Merced, the hospital, and many of 
the principal houses. 

Leon is situated in the midst of the great plain of the same 
name, which I have described, about midway between the 
lake and ocean. The choice of position seems to have been 
determined by the same considerations which influenced the 
Indians in selecting it for one of their own towns, viz. : the 
proximity of water. Upon both sides of the city are deep 
ravines, in which are a multitude of springs of pure water, 
forming perennial streams of considerable size, which unite at 
the distance of half a mile from the city. From these 
the supply of water for the town is chiefly obtained. In later 



THE CITY OF LEON". 239 

times many wells liave been sunk, but ttey require to be of 
great depth. — from one hundred and twenty to two hundred 
feet — and the water is not esteemed to be as good as that from 
the ra-vnnes. 

Like all other cities under the tropics, Leon covers a large 
area of ground. It is regularly laid out, with squares or 
plazas, at intervals, in each ecclesiastical or municipal district. 
The houses, like those of Granada, are built of adobes, and 
are rarely of more than one story. Each one encloses a spa- 
cious patio or courtyard, filled with fruit or shade trees. 
Sometimes the building has an inner or back court for the 
domestic animals, while that immediately connected with the 
dwelling is ornamented with shrubbery and flowers, and sur- 
roimded on all sides by a broad corridor. This style of 
building, which is well adapted to the climate, and rendered 
necessary in a country where earthquakes are so frequent, 
admits of very little architectural display. The builder has 
no opportunity of exhibiting his taste or skill, except in the 
"ptier^a," or "sa^wan" — ^portal, or principal entrance, — and in 
the elaboration of the balconied windows. These portals are 
often high and imposing, and profusely and tastefully orna- 
mented. Some are copies of the Moresque arches so common 
in Spain, and are loaded with ornaments peculiar to that 
style of architecture. Others are of the severer Grecian 
styles, and others of orders utterly indescribable, and emi- 
nently original. Above these arches the old aristocracy 
often placed their arms; those of a military turn carved 
groups of armor, and those piously inclined a prayer or a 
passage from the Bible. 

Formerly, very few of the buildings had more than two 
or three openings on the street, but of late years windows 
are becoming more numerous. These windows are broad and 
high, projecting two or three feet, and are guarded by iron 
balconies. "Within the balconies are seats, which in the 
evening are occupied by the senoras, who here receive their 



240 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 

visitors, and return tlie salutations of their passing friends. 
Tlie gallant saunters from one to tlie other, and pays his 
devoirs without entering; an easy custom, which, in the 
early evening, gives the streets an air of great gayety and 
cheerfalness. He often carries his guitar with him, and 
sings a song when conversation flags. Sometimes the 
mounted cavalier reins in his steed before the balcony, to 
pay his compliments to the fair occupants, — stealthily prick- 
ing the animal with his spurs, to show off his skill in man- 
aging him, and to impress the senoras with admiration for 
his spirit. They are quite up to these little tricks in Mca- 
ragua, as well as in other countries. 

The interiors of the dwellings of the better classes convey 
an idea of great comfort, in a country where room and ven- 
tilation become necessary conditions of existence. The prin- 
cipal apartments, with rare exceptions, open upon the corri- 
dor, and are also connected by inner doors. In the main 
body of the building is the grand sala^ or what we would 
call a parlor, used only for receptions, or as a sitting-room 
for the ladies. On either side are the private rooms of the 
families, while the wings are appropriated for sleeping apart- 
ments, to the servants, and for stores. Yery few are ceiled, 
but are open to the roof, allowing a free circulation of air 
between the tiles. The floors are paved with large square 
tiles or bricks, occasionally with marble, and are usually 
kept well watered. And as the windows are never glazed, 
every passing breeze enters freely, and the ventilation is 
made perfect. Meals are taken in the corridor, on the side 
most shaded from the sun ; and here hammocks are swung 
for those who choose to occupy them. The walls, both of 
the corridors and inner rooms, are sometimes painted, in 
imitation of marble or of hangings ; but owing to the lack of 
skin on the part of the artists, the effect is not usually good. 
The accompanying ground-plan will convey an idea of the 
arrangement of the various parts of a Central American 



HOUSES IN LEON. 



241 



dwelling, from wliich the details may be discovered without 
further explanation. I need only repeat that, however at 
variance with established rules of architecture in other coun- 
tries, they are probably better adapted to the climate and 
country than edifices of a more pretending character. 




PLAN OF A DWELLING-HOUSE IN LEON. 



In Leon, as in Granada, the dwellings on the outskirts of the 
city are simple cane structures, covered with thatch, but some- 
times plastered with mud and roofed with tiles. And here, 
as in all the other towns, they are embowered in trees, and 
surrounded with cactus fences. The accompanying engrav- 
ing of a hut in the barrio of Saragossa, may be taken as a 
type of all the others. 

The streets in the central part of the city are paved. 
The object principally had in view is the prevention of dust, 
which, towards the close of the dry season, is almost unen- 
durable in the unpaved parts of the town. 

Perhaps no city in America has suffered more from war 
than Leon. During the contest between the aristocrats and 

16 



242 NICARAGUA — NAERATIVE. 

liberals wHicli followed tlie declaration of independence, ' a 
large part, embracing tbe richest and best built portions, was 
destroyed by fire. Over one thousand buildings were burned 
in a single night. The great cathedral is surrounded by en- 
tire squares of ruins of what were once palaces. The lofty 
and elaborate archways, by which they were entered, still in- 
dicate their original magnificence. Entire streets, now almost 
deserted, are lined with the remains of large and beautiful 
edifices, destroyed in the civil wars. Within their abandoned 
courts stand rude cane huts, — as if in mockery of their 
former state. Leon was formerly one of the best built cities 
in all Spanish America. "It is," says the old traveller, 
Grage, writing in 1665, " very curiously built ; for the chief 
\ / delight of the inhabitants consists in their houses, in the 
pleasure of the country adjoining, and in the abundance of 
all things for the life of man. They are content," he adds, 
" with fine gardens, with the variety of singing birds and 
parrots, with plenty of fish and flesh, with gay houses, and 
so lead a delicious, lazy, and idle life, not aspiring much to 
trade and traf&c, although they have the lake and ocean near 
them. The gentlemen of Leon are almost as gay and fan- 
tastical as those of Chiapas ; and it is especially from the 
pleasure of this city that the province of Nicaragua is called 
Mahomet's Paradise."^ 

The public buildings of Leon are among the finest in all 

1 The pirate, Dampier, in giving an account of the capture and burn- 
ing of Leon by himself and his associates, says: 

" Our countryman, Mr. Grage, who travelled in these parts, recommends 
Leon as the pleasantest place in all America, and calls it the Paradise of 
the Indies. Indeed, if we consider the advantages of its situation, we may 
find it surpassing most places for health and pleasure in America ; for the 
country about it is of a sandy soil, which soon drinks up all the rain 
which falls. It is encompassed with savannas, so that they have the ben- 
efit of the breezes which come from any quarter ; all of which makes it 
a very healthy place." — Dampier' s Voyage round the World, vol. i. p. 218. 



THE GKBAT CATHEDRAL. 245 

Central America. Indeed, the great cathedral of St. Peter 
may perhaps be regarded as second to no similar structure in 
any of the Spanish American States. It was finished in 1743, 
having occupied thirty-seven years in building. The cost is 
said to have been five millions of dollars, but this seems to be 
an exaggeration. It covers an entire square, and its front ex- 
tends the whole width of the grand plaza. It is constructed 
of cut stone, and is one firm mass of masonry. The roof is 
composed of massive arches, and has all the solidity of a rock. 
Nothing can better illustrate its strength, than the fact that it 
has withstood the storms and earthquakes of more than a 
century ; and, with the exception of one of the towers, which 
during my residence in the country was struck by lightning, 
and cracked from top to bottom, it is now nearly as perfect as 
it came from the hands of its builders. Yet it has often been 
converted into a fortress, and has sustained more than one 
cannonade and bombardment from besieging forces. In 1823, 
it is said, no less than thirty pieces of artillery were planted 
on its roof. On its most exposed side, towards the east, there 
is hardly a square inch of its walls which is not indented with 
shot. 

Its ornaments are of stucco, and are simple and chaste. 
Viewed firom an eminence, the entire structure is very impos- 
ing, but seen from the plaza, it appears low in proportion to its 
width. The interior is not unworthy of its exterior ; but is 
comparatively bare of ornament. At the head of the principal 
aisle, beneath a lofty, spacious dome, is the great altar, com- 
posed of silver, elaborately chased. The side chapels are not 
remarkable for their richness or beauty. For, in the civil 
commotions of the country the churches have not escaped 
the rapacity of the soldiery. The cathedral was once pos- 
sessed of extraordinary wealth, and the costliness and variety 
of its ornaments were a proverb in Spain itself ; but now it 
has little to boast beyond its massive proportions and archi- 
tectural design. 



246 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 

I visited it shortly after my arrival, under the guidance of 
one of the canonigos, who was conscientious in pointing out 
to me everything worthy of notice. What most interested 
me, however, was a small room, in which were contained all 
the portraits of the bishops, commencing with Zuniga. 
They were forty-four in number, and displayed every variety 
of feature and complexion. The dark skins and black hair of 
some of the bishops showed that native or Indian blood had 
been no bar to ecclesiastical preferment, and contrasted 
strongly with the fair complexions of others of European 
birth. Most had an expression of great austerity ; types of 
rigorous zealots, who looked as if every sentiment and feeling 
of humanity had been rudely rooted from their hearts ; while 
others wore more cheerful faces, and a few, I am sure, had 
been right jolly old fellows in their day, not averse to the 
grape, nor wholly indifferent to the smiles of beauty. 

Both the fa§ade and rear of the cathedral were once orna- 
mented with the royal arms of Spain, but these were removed 
in the first fervor of republican zeal, and their places yet 
remain blanks, — ^emblematic of a country which has got rid 
of one government, without having as yet fully succeeded in 
establishing another in its place. 

One of the finest views in the world is commanded from 
the roof of the cathedral ; and standing here, I saw for the 
first time the waters of the Pacific, a rim of silver on the 
edge of the western horizon. In the east bristled the nine 
volcanoes of the Marabios, which I have already mentioned, 
their outlines sharply defined against the sky, and in their 
regularity of outline emulating the symmetry of the pyra- 
mids. From this position alone is a good view to be obtained 
of the city, which, seen from one side, or from a distance, 
presents only a monotonous succession of tiled roofs, half- 
buried amongst the trees, and only relieved by the white 
walls of the churches. 

To the left of the cathedral, and separated only by the 




CHUECH OF MERGED AMD VOLCANO OF EL VIEJO, FROM GATHEDKAL. 






'*■ •ur*.*'* 






VOLGANOS OF AXUStO AND MOMOTOMBO, FROM GATHEDEAL. 




PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 249 

street, is tlie " Palacio del Obispo," tlie Episcopal Palace. It 
was described as folloAvs, in 1751, by the tben Bisbop of 
Nicaragua, Senor Don Pedro Augustin Morel de Sta. Cruz, 
and has changed but little since. 

" The Episcopal Palace is situated at the corner of the principal plaza, 
contiguous to the Sagrario ; it is built of adobes and tiles, with two bal- 
conies, and is distinguished by a certain air of respectability. It is en- 
tered by a portico of good proportions, and has not less than fourteen 
apartments, furnished and ornamented with pictures, canopies, curtains, 
tables, sUk beds, and many weU-carved chairs. The principal sala and 
the oratorio are the largest ; the others are proportioned to their purposes. 
They all open upon a broad piazza, running entirely around the court, 
within which is a garden, with many trees and flowers, and a fountain 
very beautiful and refreshing to the sight. Back of the building is an- 
other square for the servants, stables, etc. In short, nothing is wanted 
to make it a suitable habitation for the prelate, except a revenue suffi- 
cient to enable him to keep up a style commensurate to the edifice." 

Adjoining the palace of the Bishop, is the Tridentine Col- 
lege of St. I.,a\non, established in 1675. This institution 
was once very flourishing, and had numerous students, with 
professorships of law and medicine. It has, however, shared 
in the general decadence of the country, and has now but 
little more than a nominal existence. Efforts have lately 
been made to revive it upon a new foundation ; and with an 
improvement in the country at large, there is no doubt it 
may regain something of its former position. 

The government house, which occupies the northern side 
of the grand plaza, is distinguished for nothing except that 
it is somewhat more lofty than its neighbors, and has a raised 
corridor extending along its entire front. Opposite to this 
is the Cuartel General, or head-quarters of the regular forces 
of the government, with a guard of soldiers constantly on 
duty ; for, in case of disturbance, this is the first place to be 
attacked, inasmuch as it is the general depository of the arms 
of the State. 



250 NICAEAGUA — ^NAERATIVE. 

The cliurclies of La Merced, tlie Eecoleccion, and Calvario 
are remarkable for tlieir size and their fine fa§ades. The 
front of the latter is ornamented with panels containing 
Scriptural groups, admirably executed in bas-relief, and 
with niches containing statues of the saints. It has suffered 
much from shot, havmg been twice occupied by besieging 
forces, while the su23erior position of the cathedral was in 
possession of the other party. The Merced has also suffered 
from the same cause, but in a less degree. It contains some 
fine paintings, and its principal altar is an elaborate and very 
beautiful piece of composition. A convent was once attached 
to this church, as also to the church of the Recoleccion, and 
to that of San Juan de Dios. But these have been abolished ; 
and the convent buildings of the Merced, at the time of my 
arrival, were used as cavalry barracks, while those of San 
Juan de Dios had been converted into a hospital. Besides 
the churches which I have named, there are ten or twelve 
others, but less in size, and of more moderate pretensions. 
And as each of these has a chime of bells, and nearly every 
day is dedicated to some saint, in whose honor it is essential 
to ring them all, a continual clangor is kept up, which, until 
the stranger becomes habituated to it, or is deafened outright, 
is excessively annoying. 

When to this list" I have added the stone bridge across 
the ravine to the south of the city, connecting with the 
barrio de Guadelupe, I have finished the architectural nota- 
bilities of Leon. This bridge was never fully completed, 
but was boldly projected, and the arches spanning the stream 
are models of symmetry and good workmanship. 

The Indian pueblo of Subtiaba is really part of the city 
of Leon, although constituting a distinct municipality. It 
has also its grand plaza, and separate public buildings. Its 
great church is second in size to no other in Nicaragua, ex- 
cept the cathedral of Leon. The fagade is quaint, with 
numerous niches filled with figures of grim old saints. It is 



POPULATION OF LEON. 251 

substantially built, and lias a very bigli antiquity. " The 
Parroquial of Subtiaba," said the old Bishop, Augustin Morel, 
writing of this church in the year 1751, "is the largest and 
most beautiful in the Bishopric. The principal and side 
chapels, and baptistery, are arched, and high and ample. 
The body of the church consists of three naves ; the columns 
are of cedar, with gilt capitals. It has eight altars, four 
chapels, a neat sacristy, and is admirably decorated. Its 
towers are well proportioned, and its fagade imposing and 
tasteful, and altogether the edifice is fit for a cathedral." 

Subtiaba has suffered no less than Leon from intestine 
wars, and is but a shadow of what it once was, when it could 
muster two thousand fighting men in its plaza at a moment's 
warning. 

, It is difiicult to form a correct estimate of the population 
of Leon. The city is spread over so wide a space, and so 
involved amongst trees that, even after a three months' 
residence, I found myself constantly discovering new and 
secluded portions, of the existence of which I was before 
ignorant. And although at first I thought twenty thousand 
an over estimate, I ultimately came to regard the number set 
down in the census attempted in 1847, viz : thirty thousand, 
as probably nearer the truth. In this calculation I include 
the Indian municipality of Subtiaba, which is generally, but 
erroneously supposed to be a town separate from Leon. 

Here, as everywhere else in Nicaragua, the Indian and 
mixed population greatly predominates, and the pure whites 
constitute scarcely one-tenth of the whole number. The 
general complexion is however considerably lighter than at 
Granada, but not so clear as at Managua and some of the 
smaller towns. An infusion of Indian blood is easily to be 
detected in a large proportion of those who claim to be of 
pure Spanish descent. It displaj^s itself less in the color of 
the skin than in a certain quickness of the eye, which is 
a much more expressive feature in those crossed with the 



252 NICAEAGUA — NAEEATIVE. 

Indians than in either of the original stocks. In respect of 
physique, leaving color out of the question, there are probably 
no handsomer men in the world than some of the Sambos, 
or offspring of Indian and negro parents. They are of course 
darker than the Indian, but taller and better developed. It 
should however be observed that the negroes of Nicaragua 
differ very widely in appearance from those of the United 
States. They must have been derived from an entirely dif- 
ferent portion of the African continent. They have, in gen- 
eral, aquiline noses, small mouths, and thin lips, — ^in fact, 
with the exception of the crisp hair and dark skin, they have 
few of the features which, with us, are regarded as peculiar 
and universal in the negro race. 

The fusion between all portions of the population of Nica- 
ragua has been so complete, that notwithstanding the diver- 
sity of races, distinctions of caste are hardly recognized. The 
whites, in their social intercourse, maintain a certain degree 
of exclusion, but in all other relations the completest equality 
prevails. This would not probably be the case if the white 
population was proportionably greater, and possessed the 
physical power to keep up the distinctions which naturally 
separate the superior and inferior families of men. With a 
full consciousness of their numerical inferiority, their pohcy 
is plainly that of concession ; and however repugnant it may 
have been originally to their pride, it has now come to be 
regarded as a matter of course, and is submitted to with a 
good grace. 

A few days in Leon sufficed to show me that, in the tone 
of its society, and the manners of its people, it had more of 
the metropolitan character than Grranada. And although 
the proportion of its inhabitants who laid claim to what is 
called "position," was even here comparatively small, and 
not at all rigid in its adherence to the conventionahties of 
the larger cities of Mexico, South America, and our own 
country ; yet, in the essential respects of hospitality, kind- 



SOCIETY IN LEON. 253 

ness, and courtesy, I found it entitled to a position second to 
no other community. The women are far from being highly 
educated, but are simple and unaffected in their manners, and 
possessed of great quickness of apprehension, and a readiness 
in good-natured repartee, which compensates, to a certain 
extent, for their deficiency in general information. 

The condition of the country for many years has been 
such as to afford few opportunities for the cultivation of those 
accomplishments which are indispensable accessories of re- 
fined society ; and we are therefore, not justified in subject- 
ing the people of Leon, or of any other city of Central Ame- 
rica, to the test of our standards. I can conceive of nothing 
more painful, or more calculated to awaken the interest of 
the visitor from abroad, than the spectacle of a people, with 
really high aspirations and capabilities, borne down by the 
force of opposing circumstances, conscious of its own condi- 
tion, but almost despairing of improving it. 

In dress the women of Leon have the same fashions with 
those of Granada, but the European styles are less common, 
owing to the circumstance that there are fewer foreign resi- 
dents to infect the popular taste. They have an equal fondness 
for the cigarito; and in the street are not less proud of display- 
ing a little foot and a satin slipper. As everywhere else in 
the world they are very attentive in their devotions, but be- 
yond their daily visit to the churches, rarely go out of doors, 
except it is in the early evening, when visits are paid inform- 
ally. If chance brings together a su£S.cient number, a " ter- 
tulia^^'' or dance, is often improvised. Set parties or balls are 
of rare occurrence, and are generally given only on public 
occasions, and then with great state and ceremony. 

We were witnesses of a tertulia at our own house, the 
second evening after our arrival. A dozen senoras casually 
found themselves together, a dance was proposed by the gal- 
lants loitering at the balconies, and the proposition meeting 
with favor, they at once dispersed to bring in recruits and 



254 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 

tlie "musicos." In an hour the grand sala was filled. The 
females as they came in were all ranged on one side of the 
room, and the males on the other. This looked rather stifi", 
and I began to fear that a tertuUa was no great matter after 
all. Directly, however, a single couple took the floor ; the 
music struck up, and as they moved down the room, the 
measure brought the lady first on one side, and then on the 
other. As she passed she alternately tapped a senor and 
senora on the shoulder with her fan, thus arbitrarily deter- 
mining the partners, who were obliged at once to join in the 
dance. In this manner the whole party was brought to its 
feet, nolens volens, — and such I found was a frequent mode of 
opening the tertulia. After the first set is over, the ice once 
broken, and the excitement up, the gallants are permitted to 
exercise a choice. I thought the practice a good one, obvi- 
ating a great deal of awkward diplomacy at the outset, and 
putting every one very speedily at their ease. As the even- 
ing progressed the party augmented, and before ten o'clock 
we had got together the elite of Leon. All joined heartily 
in the spirit of the affair, and when the bell of the cathedral 
tolled eleven, I think I never saw a more animated assem- 
blage. The polka and the waltz, as also the bolero, and 
other well known Spanish dances, were all danced gracefully 
and with spirit; and besides these, after much persuasion, 
we had an Indian dance, a singular affair, slow and compli- 
cated, and which left upon my mind a distinct impression 
that it was religious in its origin. After the dancing, we had 
music, but beyond the national air, which was given with 
force and spirit, I cannot say much for the singing. 

During the whole evening, the windows were festooned 
with urchins, and the doors blockaded by spectators, who 
when they were particularly pleased, applauded tumultu- 
ously, as if the whole affair had been got up for their special 
entertainment. The police would have driven them off, but 
I won an enduring popularity by interceding in their behalf, 



MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. 255 

and they "vvere consequently permitted to remain. Upon 
tlie occasions of the more formal balls subsequently given, 
soldiers were stationed at every entrance, and the crowd kept 
at a distance. 

Amongst tlie lower classes, fandangoes and otber. charac- 
teristic dances are frequent, and are sufficiently uproarious 
and promiscuous. For obvious reasons, I never witnessed 
any of these in the city, although I stumbled upon them 
occasionally in the villages, during my excursions in the 
country. 

The people of Nicaragua are generally scrupulously clean 
in their persons, except when travelling or ill, and then the 
touch of water is prohibited. But beyond the grand sala, 
and the apartments appropriated to visitors, their houses are 
frequently very far from being patterns of neatness. I have 
seen sleeping apartments, occupied by families of the first 
respectability, which certainly had not been swept for weeks, 
not to say months. Yet the beds in these rooms were clean 
and neat — ^the more so perhaps from the contrast. These 
remarks are less applicable to Grranada than Leon, for in the 
former city the example of the foreign residents has worked 
a partial reformation amongst the native housekeepers. 

The Spanish people, in all parts of the world, are temper- 
ate in their habits. Those of Nicaragua in this respect do 
no discredit to their progenitors. Strong liquors are little 
used except amongst the lower orders of the population ; and 
even here excess is less common than with us. The sale of 
brandy and the " aguardiente," or native rum, is a govern- 
ment monopoly, and is confined to the " estancos," or licensed 
establishments, where it pays a high duty to the State. I do 
not remember to have seen a single respectable citizen drunk 
during the whole of my residence in the country. Yet a 
bottle of " cogniac" is usually offered to the stranger, when- 
ever he pays a visit. A considerable quantity of sweet or 
Spanish wines, are used in the principal towns, but the 



256 



NICARAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 



liglater Frencli wines have tlie largest consumption. There 
is a delicious kind of liqueur made from the Muscatel grape, 
called " Italia," or " Pisco," wMcli is brought from Peru. It 
is however, produced in small quantities, upon, I believe, 
a single estate, and is consequently introduced in Nicaragua 
to a very limited extent. Should it ever become generally 
known to the people of the United States, it would, no doubt, 
create for itself a large demand. But whether it can be pro- 
duced in sufficient quantities. to supply a considerable market, 
is a point upon which I am ignorant. 

In their food, the Nicaraguans are also exceedingly simple. 
Tortillas and frijoles are the standard dishes. The first are 
composed of maize, and if weU made are really palatable. 







^^^^33^^ia'J-\ 




ANCIENT METLATL, OR GRINDING STONE. 

Fresh and unblemished maize on the, ear is always selected. 
It is shelled, soaked in alkali to remove the hull, and then 
carefully and repeatedly washed in cold water. It is after- 
wards placed on a metlatl, or grinding stone, and reduced to 
the extremest fineness. A very little cheese is ground with 
it, to give it consistency. A roll is then taken in the hands, 
beaten into a flat cake, and placed on an earthen pan, already 
heated upon the fire. When sufficiently done upon one side. 



TORTILLAS AND FRIJOLES. 



257 



it is adroitly turned on the otlier, and is finally served hot 
and crisp attlie table. I " cottoned" to the tortilla from the 
start, and always preferred it to the native bread, which 
although light and fair to the eye, is invariably spoiled b}^ 
sweetening. The tortilla is an aboriginal invention; and 
the foregoing engraving represents an ancient metlatl or 
grinding stone which was dug up during my residence in 
Leon. The form is unchanged to this day, although few are 
as elaborately ornamented as that here introduced, which is a 
favorable specimen of aboriginal carving. 

It will be observed that this stone is curiously ornamented 
with grecgues^ which are shown more distinctly in the sub- 
joined enlarged sketches of the upper and lower extremities 
of the metlatl {a. h.) 




ORNAMENTS OF THE METLATL. 

Frijohs, in plain English, are baked beans ; but the beans 
are quite of a different flavor from those in use in more 
northern latitudes. They are small, white, black, or brown 
in color, and indigenous in the country. They are not usual- 
ly relished at first, but a taste for them is gradually acquired, 
and a meal without frijoles finally comes to lack an essential 
ingredient. The man who cannot " go " \hQ frijoles had bet- 
ter keep away from Central America. For the weary travel- 
ler, in soliciting the bill of fare at the Indian hut where, four 

17 



258 , NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE, 

times out of five, lie is obliged to stop for the night, has gen- 
erally this brief catalogue, "Aay tortillas^ frijoles, frijolitos, 
frijolitos fritos^ y huevos^'' — "tortillas, beans, little beans, little 
baked beans, and eggs !" 

Excellent beef and pork are to be obtained, at cheap rates, 
. in all the principal towns, and poultry is abundant. A pair 
of chickens costs from a quartillo to a medio, — i. e. from three 
to six cents. Next to the tortillas and frijoles, however, the 
chief articles of consumption are rice, plantains, and a kind 
of cheese, which is supplied in great quantities from the 
"haciendas de las vacas," or cattle estates. The plantains 
are cooked in many ways, — ^boiled, fried, and roasted, — and 
are singly capable of sustaining life. ■ And when I add that, 
in many parts of the state, they may be had for the asking, 
and that everywhere six cents worth will sustain a small 
family for a week, it will be understood that the incentives 
to labor cannot be very strong, and that the poorest wretch 
need not go hungry. 

The markets of Leon display the greatest profusion of 
fruits and vegetables, of which it would be almost impossible 
to give a complete list. Water and musk melons, papayas, 
pine apples, oranges, mamays, nisperos, pomegranates, ma- 
ranons, jocotes, yucas, plantains, bananas, beans, maize, and 
occasionally small potatoes but little larger than bullets, 
brought in bales from the highlands of Costa Eica and Hon- 
duras, and sold by the pound. And as the smallest coin in 
the country is a quartillo, or three cents, which would pur- 
chase more of almost any of these articles than most families 
would require at one time, change is made in the aboriginal 
coin of the country, namely cacao nuts, of which four are 
about equivalent in value to one cent of our currency. . 

But two meals a-day are eaten by the inhabitants at large. 
A cup of coffee or chocolate is served at the bedside, or im- 
mediately upon rising in the morning. Breakfast follows at 
nine or ten o'clock in the forenoon, and dinner at three or 



TISTE, BULGES, ETC. 259 

four in the afternoon. Tea is only drnnk by foreigners, and 
by them to a very limited extent. It is not to be found 
therefore in any of the shops. A cup of chocolate, or more 
frequently a cup of tiste (parched corn ground with chocolate 
and sugar and mixed with water), passed unceremoniously 
in the evening, supplies its place, and is not an unacceptable 
substitute. It should be mentioned, however, that large 
quantities of "dulces," literally "sweets" or sweetmeats are 
eaten between meals, especially by the women. The Spanish 
taste for "dulces" long ago passed into a proverb, but it 
rather surpasses itself in Nicaragua. The venders of " dul- 
ces," generally bright Indian girls, gaily dressed, and bearing 
a tray, covered with the purest white napkins, and tempt- 
ingly spread, upon their heads, pass daily from house to 
house; and it is sometimes difficult, and always ungallant to 
refuse purchasing something, however trifling, from their 
stock. The "mil gracias Senor!" in the silverest of voices, 
is always worth the money, and so one gets the " dulces " 
gratis. They sometimes, however, trespassed a little upon 
my good nature, and carried off more of my loose change 
than was proper, considering that, having a reasonable regard 
for my stomach, I never ate any of their dyspeptic com- 
pounds. 

Leon has little trade beyond the supply of its local wants. 
The principal import and export business for this portion of 
the state is done in the large and flourishing town of Chinan- 
dega, situated within two leagues of the port of Eealejo. Its 
shops are nevertheless well supplied, and it has some wealthy 
merchants. Its principal inhabitants, however, are "propie- 
tarios," owners of large estates which are carried on through 
agents. Attempts have recently been made to augment the 
commercial importance of Leon by opening a shorter and 
direct communication with Eealejo; but its interior position 
will always prove a bar to its progress in this respect. Chi- 
nandega has already a start, which it will doubtless keep, 



# 



260 



NICARAaUA — NARRATIVE. 



unless a town, more favorably situated nearer the port, 
should spring up under the requirements of commerce. 

Since the above was written, a new town called " Corinth," 
has been laid out on the south shore of the harbor of Eealejo, 
in the direction of Leon, which will greatly benefit the latter 
city. 




MACHETE AND TOLEUO. 



CHAPTER X. 

THE VICINITT OF LEON — THE BISHOP'S BATHS — PtJENTE DE AXUSCO — " CEERO 
DE LOS AMEKICANOS" — A MILITARY BAIL AND CIVIC DINNER — OEN. GUER- 
RERO — OFFICIAL TISIT FROM THE INDIAN MUNICIPALITT OP SITBTIABA 
— SIMON ROQUB — A SECRET — ADDRESS AND REPLY — VISIT RETURNED — 
THE CABILDO — AN EMPTY TREASURY — " SUBTIABA, LEAL Y FIEL" — ROYAL 
CEDULAS — FORMING A VOCABULARY — " UNA DECIMA" — THE INDIANS OP 
NICARAGUA ; STATURE ; COMPLEXION ; DISPOSITION ; BRAVERY ; INDUSTRY ; 
SKILL IN THE ARTS — MANUFACTURE OP COPPER — PRIMITIVE MODE OF SPIN- 
NING — TYEIAN PURPLE — PETATES AND HAMMOCKS — POTTERY — " AGUACALES," 
AND " JICARAS," — COSTUME — ORNAMENTS — ABORIGINAL INSTITUTIONS — THE 
CONQUEST OP NICARAGUA — ENORMITIES PRACTISED TOWARDS THE INDIANS — 
PRESENT CONDITION OP THE INDIANS — THE SEQUEL OF SOMOZA's INSURREC- 
TION — ^BATTLES OF THE OBRAJB AND SAN JORGE — CAPTURE AND EXECUTION 
OP SOMOZA — MODERATE POLICY OP THE GOVERNMENT — RETURN OP GEN. 
MUNOZ — MEDALS — FESTIVAL OP PEACE — NOVEL PROCESSION — ^A BLACK SAINT. 

The country adjacent to Leon is very fine, and the "paseos" 
or rides in tlie vicinity, alttiougli lacking an important 
element of beauty, the proximity of water, are not without 
variety and interest.' My first expedition on horseback was 
to a place called the Bishop's Baths." We rode through the 
barrio de San Juan, where the carreteros most do congregate 
to the edge of the northern ravine. Here we found a path 
literally shut in with cactuses and trees covered with vines, 
which led to the ruins of an ancient gateway, beyond which 
had once been the suburban seat of the Bishops of Nicaragua. 
It was a beautiful spot ; the ground had been artificially 
smoothed, and beneath the large trees which, shadowed over 
it, were the remains of stone seats, and of pedestals which 
had once sustained crosses and the statues of the saints. In 



262 NICARAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 

front of -where tlie house liad stood, before its destruction 
during tlie troubles of the revolutionary period, there was 
an abrupt slope to the stream at the bottom of the ravine. 
This slope had formerly been terraced, and descended by a 
winding way. The baths were of stone, and although now 
in ruins, still gave evidences of the taste and luxury which 
had led to their construction. A couple of women, naked 
with the exception of a single cloth around their loins, were 
washing in the principal bath, but they vacated it tempora- 
rily at our request, and we took possession. The seclusion 
of the place, the limpid purity of the water, and the deep 
shade in which everything was shrouded, enchanted me with 
the spot, and I could not help thinking that it must have 
been selected by one of the rosiest and j oiliest of the old 
bishops whose portraits had tipped me a friendly wink from 
the walls of the heavy room where they were imprisoned in 
the cathedral. But I afterwards found that this was but one 
only of a thousand equally beautiful spots in the neighbor- 
hood of the city. That, however, to which my memory 
reverts most frequently, is the " fuente de Axusco," distant 
about two miles to the southward of the town. It is a broad 
pool, at the bottom of a ravine, shut in by steep banks on 
every side, and reached by a single narrow path. The water 
is tepid, and bursts, pure as crystal, in a large volume from 
beneath the rocks. It is literally arched over with trees, and 
curtained in with vines. This place was my favorite resort 
during the whole of my residence in the country. I rose at 
early dawn, despatched a cup of coffee, and mounting my 
horse, generally reached the place just as the sun began to 
tinge the summit of the distant volcanoes. The path lay 
through fields covered with trees and bushes, spangled all 
over with flowers, and glittering with dew-drops. The cool, 
bracing morning air, the quick action of the horse, and the 
grateful plunge into the quiet pool, — I think I never enjoyed 
so much the mere pleasure of existence, as during my visits 



CERRO DE LOS AMERICANOS. 263 

to the " fuente de Axusco." There stood a cross in a nook 
near the pool, and I often observed chaplets of fresh flowers 
suspended upon it. It puzzled me exceedingly, and one day, 
finding a little boy seated beside it, I asked him why it was 
there ? It commemorated an awful murder, he said, and 
that was all he knew, except that the victim was a woman. 
Beyond the "fuenta," is the range of low hills which I have 
mentioned as bordering the plain of Leon on the side of the 
ocean. I had the trees cut down on the most commandinsf 
peak, and rode there so frequently that the rancheros in the 
vicinity christened it "el cerro de los Americanos," the hill 
of the Americans. From this point the eye traversed the 
whole vast plain, and took in every object of interest. Upon 
one hand the forests alone shut the lake of Managua from 
view, while upon the other the broad Pacific lay bright and 
beautiful on the edge of the horizon. With a glass the ves- 
sels in the harbor of Eealejo, and the outlines of the volcano 
of Coseguina, distant more than a hundred miles, could easily 
be distinguished. A view from the " cerro de los Ameri- 
canos" is an incident in a man's lifetime not likely to be for- 
gotten. Its impression upon my own mind is too distinct 
ever to be effaced. 

Our second week in Leon was signalized by a military 
ball and a government dinner, both on a scale far surpass- 
ing anything of the kind which had been witnessed in the 
city for many years. The ball was under the special patron- 
age of Gen. Don Jose Gruerrero, who had just finished a term 
as Director of the State, but who had accepted the command 
of the garrison in the absence of the Greneral-in-chief. It 
was during his administration that the seizure of San Juan 
by the English had taken place, and it was his eloquent 
appeal, in a circular addressed 'to all civilized nations, which 
had arrested the attention and awakened the sympathy of 
General Taylor and his cabinet. My arrival in the country, 
it can readily be understood, was to him a source of the pro- 



264 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 

foundest satisfaction; and during my official residence in 
Leon, I liad no warmer friend than General Gruerrero. May- 
lie live to witness tlie fruition of tlie policy wMcli lie marked 
out for iiis country, and the realization of those high and 
patriotic hopes which he has so long and so devotedly cher- 
ished ! , 

Amongst the most pleasing incidents connected with my 
arrival was a formal visit from the municipal authorities of 
the Indian pueblo of Subtiaba, who, in their way, are amongst 
the sturdiest republicans in all Nicaragua. At their head 
was Simon Eoque, with whom I afterwards established an 
intimate friendship. He presented me an address, written 
both in the Indian language and in Spanish, and accompa- 
nied it with a speech, which was far above the average, both 
in language and sentiment, and altogether a favorable speci- 
men of Indian eloquence. Simon and his companions were 
dressed in spotless white, and each wore a red sash about his 
waist, and carried a gold-headed cane, an insignia of office, in 
his hands. They were curious to know about the Indian 
population of the United States, and I blush to say it, I was 
ashamed to tell them the truth. They had heard that I was 
a great friend of the Indians, and on the lookout for " piedras 
antiguas." They had something to tell me on that subject, 
but it could only be done when we were alone. So the sala 
was cleared, and Simon, after some circumlocution, informed 
me that they knew of certain ancient stones which their an- 
cestors had buried a very long time ago, and which, if I 
wished, they would present to me, on the peremptory condi- 
tion, however, that their locality should be kept a profound 
secret. I was too glad to have an opportunity to assent to 
any conditions, and it was finally agreed that, as it would be 
impossible for me to attend to the business now, some of the 
stones should be excavated at once, and sent to my residence. 
They were as good as their word ; and a couple of mornings 
thereafter we were surprised at finding two statues at the 



MUNICIPALITY OF SUBTIABA. 265 

threshold of the portal ; and a few nights later a cart ap- 
peared with two more, — of all which a description will be 
given in another place. This little piece of confidence over, 
I treated the company to as much claret as they chose to 
drink, and we parted with the understanding that I should 
return the visit at an early day. The address and reply were 
as follows : 

ADDEESS. 

" Sir : — The municipality of the Pueblo of Subtiaba, of which we are 
members, entertain the highest enthusiasm in view of the relations which 
your arrival induces us to believe will speedily be established between 
Nicaragua and the United States, the greatest and most glorious repubhc 
beneath the sun. We rejoice in the depths of our hearts that a man like 
yourself has been chosen to convey to us the assurances of future pros- 
perity, in the name of the sons of Washington ; and we trust in the Al- 
mighty, that the flag of the United States may soon become the shield of 
Nicaragua on land and sea. Convey our sincerest thanks for their sympa- 
thy to the great people which you represent, and give to your generous 
government the assurances of that deep gratitude which we feel but can- 
not express. We beg of you. Sir, to accept this humble evidence of the 
cordial sentiments which we entertain both for you, your countrymen, and 
your Grovermnent, and which are equally shared by the people which we 
represent. 

Jose de la Oetjz G-aroias, 
(Signed) Simon Eoqtte, 

Francisco Ltjis Antan, 

REPLY. 

" My friends of the Municipality of Subtiaba : 

" I experience great pleasure in receiving from your hands this brief but 
earnest address ; and I return you my thanks, both personally and in be- 
half of my Grovernment, for the friendly sentiments which it contains. I 
sincerely hope that the high anticipations which you have formed from a 
more intimate relation between your country and the United States, may 
be fully realized." 

The reader may be assured that I did not forget my promise 
to the municipality of Subtiaba. A day was shortly after- 



266 



NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 



wards fixed for mj visit, and I was received with great cere- 
mony at the cabildo, or council chamber, where I found col- 
lected all the old men .who could assist me in forming a 
vocabulary of the ancient language, which I had casually 
expressed a desire to procure. It was with difficulty that we 
could effect an entrance, for a half-holiday had been given to 
'the boys of all the schools in honor of the occasion, and they 
literally swarmed around the building. We were finally 
ushered into an inner room, where the archives of the mu- 
nicipality were preserved. Upon one side was a large chest 
of heavy wood, with massive locks, which had anciently been 




LA PAEEOQUIAL DE STJBTIABA. 

the strong box or treasury. A shadow fell over Simon's 
face as he pointed it out to me, and said that he could re- 
member the time when it was filled with " duros," hard 
dollars, and when, at a sin^e stroke of the alarm bell, two 
thousand armed men could fre gathered in the plaza of Sub- 
tiaba. But those days were passed, and the municipality 
now scarcely retained a shadow of its former greatness. 
Under the crown it had earned the title " leal y fiel," loyal 



PROCURING A VOCABULARY. 267 

and true; and in reward of its fidelity it liad received a grant 
of all tlie lands intervening between it and the ocean, to hold 
in perpetuity for the benefit of its citizens. And Simon 
showed me the royal letters, signed "Yo, el Eey" (I, the 
King), which the emperors of Spain had thought it not 
derogatory to their dignity to address to his predecessors 
in office; and notwithstanding his ardent republicanism, I 
thought Simon looked at them with something of regret. I 
inquired for manuscripts which might throw some light upon 
the early history of the country, but found only musty 
records, of no interest or value. 

My attempts to fill out the blank vocabulary with which I 
was provided created a great deal of merriment. I enjoyed 
it quite as much. as any of them, for nothing could be more 
amusing than the discussions between the old men- in respect 
to certain doubtful words and phrases. They sometimes 
quite forgot my presence, and rated each other soundly as 
ignoramuses; whereat Simon was greatly scandalized, and 
threatened to put them all in the stocks as " hombres sin 
verguenza," men destitute of shame. "Ah!" said he, 
"these old sinners give me more trouble than the young 
ones" — a remark which created great mirth amongst the out- 
siders, and especially amongst the young vagabonds who 
clung like monkeys to the window bars. The group of swar- 
thy, earnest faces gathered round the little table, upon which 
was heaped a confused mass of ancient, time-stained papers, 
would have furnished a study for a painter. It was quite 
dark when I had concluded my inquiries, but I was not per- 
mitted to leave without listening to a little poem, " Una De- 
cima," written by one of the schoolmasters, who read it tome 
by the light of a huge wax candle, borrowed, I am sure, from 
the church for the occasion. My modesty forbids my attempt- 
ing a translation, and so I compromise matters by submitting 
the original: 



268 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 

DEOIMA. 

Nicaragua, ve hasta cuando 
Cesara vuestro desvelo, 
Ta levantara el vuelo 
Hermoso, alegre, y triunfante ; 
Al mismo tiempo mirando 
De este personage el porta; 
Y mas sera cuando corte 
Todos los agradecimientos : 
Diremos todos contentos 
I Viva el Gobierno del Norte ! d. s. 

As I mounted my horse, Don Simon led off with three 
cheers for "El Ministro del ISTorte," and followed it with 
three more for " El Amigo de los Indios " (the friend of the 
Indians), all of which was afterwards paraded by a dingy 
little Anglo-servile paper published in Costa Eica, as evi- 
dence that I was tampering with the Indians, and exciting 
them to undertake the utter destruction of the white popula- 
tion! 

The Indians of Nicaragua, who, as I have said, predomi- 
nate in the country, are singularly docile and industrious, 
and constitute what would, in some countries, be called an 
excellent " rural population." They are a smaller race of 
men than the Indians of the United States, but have fine 
muscular developments, and a singularly mild and soft ex- 
pression of countenance. In color also they are lighter, and 
their features less strongly marked. Some of the women are 
exceedingly pretty, and when young, have figures beautifully 
and classically moulded. They are entirely unobtrusive in 
their manners, seldom speaking unless first addressed, and 
are always kind and hospitable to strangers. They are not 
warlike but brave, and when reduced to the necessity, fight 
with the most desperate obstinacy. Leon has more than once 
owed its safety to the Indian battalion of Subtiaba, which, in 



PRIMITIVE SPINNING. 



269 



the civil wars of 1838-89, marclied triumpliantly from one 
end of Central America to the other. 

The agriculture of the State is almost entirely carried on 
by them ; but they are not deficient in mechanical skill, and 
with the rudest tools often produce the most delicate and 
elaborate articles of workmanship. The women manufacture 
a large quantity of cotton for their own consumption and for 
sale. And in riding through Subtiaba in the afternoon, no 
spectacle is more common than to see a woman naked to the 
waist, sitting in the doorway of almost every hut, or beneath 
the shadow of an adjacent tree, busily engaged in spinning 




PRIMITIVE SPINNING APPARATUS. 



cotton. A little foot-wheel, such as was formerly in use foi 
spinning flax in our own country, is here commonly used for 
this purpose. But the aboriginal contrivance is not yet 
wholly displaced. It is exceedingly simple, consisting of a 
thin spindle of wood fifteen or sixteen inches in length, 
which is passed through a fly, or wheel of hard, heavy wood, 
six inches in diameter, resembling the wheel of a pulley, ex- 
cept that it is convex instead of concave on the edge. The 
spindle thus resembles a gigantic top. When used it is 
placed in a calabash, or hollowed piece of wood, to prevent 
it from toppling over, when not in motion. A thread is 
attached to it, just above the fly, and it is then twirled rap- 



270 NICARAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 

idly between the thumb and fore-finger. The momentum of 
the flj keeps it in motion for half a minute, and meantime 
the thread is drawn out by the hands of the operator, from 
the pile of prepared cotton which she holds in her lap. It ' 
is then wound on the spindle, and the process repeated, until 
the spindle is full of thread. 

In the foregoing cut a represents the cotton ; &, &, the 
spindle ; d^ the fly ; c, the thread already spun and wound ; 
and e, e, the outlines of the calabash. A precisely similar 
mode of spinning was practised by the ancient Mexicans, 
who, however, inserted the lower end of the spindle in a 
hole made in a block of wood, as shown in the accompanying 
engraving. The mode of weaving 
amongst the Indians of Nicaragua was 
anciently the same as that of the Mexi- 
cans, which is sufficiently well illus- 
trated in the following engraving, 
copied from the Codex Mendoza, a 
Mexican, manuscript or painting. 

Some of the cotton fabrics manufac 
tured by the Indians are very durable, 
and woven in tasteful figures of various 

SPINNING, FROM A MEXICAN -^ rp]^ ^^^ ^^g^ ^^V.^^ is 

MANUSCRIPT. 

the Tyrian purple, obtained from the 
murex shell-fish, which is found upon the Pacific coast of 
Nicaragua. This color is produced of any desirable depth 
and tone, and is permanent ; unaffected alike by exposure 
to the sun and to the action of alkalies. The process of dying 
the thread illustrates the patient assiduity of the Indians. It 
is taken to the seaside, when a suf&cient number of shells are 
collected, which being dried from the sea water, the work is 
commenced. Each shell is taken up singly, and a shght 
pressure upon the valve which closes its mouth forces out a 
few drops of the coloring fluid, which is then almost destitute 
of color. In this each thread is dipped singly, and after ab-. 




TYEIAN PUEPLE. 



271 



sorbing enough of tlie precious liquid, is carefully drawn out 
between the thumb and finger, and laid aside to dry. Whole 
days and nights are spent in this tedious process, until the 
work is completed. At first the thread is of a dull blue 




PRIMITIVE weaving; FROM A MEXICAN MANUSCRIPT. 

color, but upon exposure to the atmosphere acquires the de- 
sired tint. The fish is not destroyed by the operation, but 
is returned to the sea, when it lays in a new stock of coloring 
matter for a fature occasion. ' 

The manufacture of "petates," or variegated mats, from 
the bark of the palm, and hammocks from the " pita," a 
species of agave, is exclusively in Indian hands. They are 
also skillful in the manufacture of pottery, which has re- 
mained unchanged from the period before the Conquest. The 

' " The cotton-yarn thus dyed is known in the country by the name of 
' Mlo moradoj' and is highly prized by the Indian women of all the States, 
who are extremely partial to it for adorning the dresses used on festive 
occasions. Formerly, high prices were paid for it ; being frequently sold 
in Guatemala and other principal towns, for from ten to fourteen dollars 
the pound. In recent times purple thread has been imported from Eu- 
rope, and sold at a much cheaper rate ; but the color is neither as good 
nor as durable, and notwithstanding its economy, does not supplant the 
native product. The Indians are not easily deceived by offering them the 
one for the other, as they can readily distinguish the foreign from the 
genuine by some pecuUarity of smell in the latter, which, although the 
dearest, is always preferred." — Baily, p. 125. 



f 



272 NICARAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 

"cantaros," water-jars, and otlier vessels in common use, 
amongst all classes, are made by them. Thej are formed 
bj hand, withoat the aid of the potter's wheel, and are vari- 
ously and often elaborately colored and ornamented, baked, 
and when intended for purposes requiring it, are partially 
glazed. The water-jars, however, are porous, so as to admit 
of enough water passing through to keep the outer surface 
covered with moisture, the evaporation of which rapidly and 
effectually cools the contents of the vessel. Oviedo com- 
mends highly the skill "which the ancient inhabitants dis- 
played in the manufacture of their pottery, and which is very 
well sustained both by the fragments which are found, and 
by the wares which the Indians still manufacture.. " They 
make basins, plates, jars, and pitchers, of very fine pottery, 
black and smooth as velvet, and brilliant as jet. I have 
brought some specimens, which are so fine that they might 
be offered to a prince." Thus saith the chronicler. 

Mr. W. H. Edwards, in his narrative of " A Yoyage up 
the Amazon," p. 114, describes the preparation and painting 
of pottery by the Indians on that river. The brushes or 
pencils were the small species of palms, and the coloring 
matter the simplest kinds. The blue was indigo ; black, the 
juice of the mandioca; green, the juice of some other plant; 
and the red and yellow, clays. The colors were applied in 
squares and circles, or if anything imitative was intended, in 
the rudest outlines. The glazing was produced by a resinous 
gum found in the forests, which was gently rubbed over the 
vessels, previously warmed over a bed of coals. This descrip- 
tion applies equally to the modes practised in Nicaragua. 

They also make drinking vessels from the calabash ; the 
largest varieties are called ^^guacals,'^ or ^^ aguacals,^' and the 
smaller ones, made from the long or pear-shaped calabash, 
''jicarasy These last are often tastefully carved upon their 
exteriors, and are generally used instead of tumblers. It is 
indispensable that 'Uiste'' should be served in "jicaras," and 



I 



MANUFACTURE OF POTTERY. ., 273 

amongst the people at large thej are also used for coffee and 
cliocolate. But as their bottoms are round,' little carved 
stands are made to receive them. The Indians near the city 
of Nicaragua make similar cups from a variety of cocoa-nut 
peculiar to that vicinity, which are celebrated throughout 
their country for their beauty of shape and ornament. ■They 
are black, and highly polished, and when mounted with sil- 
ver, are greatly prized by foreigners. They occasionally find 
their way to the principal cities of this country and Europe, 
and into the curiosity shops, where they are often classed as 
of Chinese or Japanese origin. Sometimes they bear inscrip- 
tions, such as " Soy de Manuela Gomez," I belong to Manu- 
ela Gomez, or " Orar a Dios !" Pray to God ! The carving 
is made with instruments of the rudest description, manufac- 
tured by the artist himself from the blade of a razor, or from 
a three-cornered file, rubbed down to a cutting point on the 
stones which lie around his hut. He uses this improvised 
graver with a firm and practised hand. 

The dress of the Indians is exceedingly simple. On ordi- 
nary occasions, the women wear only a white or flowered 
skirt, fastened around the waist, leaving the upper part of 
the person entirely exposed, or but partially covered by a 
handkerchief fastened around the neck. In Masaya and 
some other places, a square piece of cloth, of native manu- 
facture, and of precisely the same style and pattern with 
that used for the same purpose before the Discovery, supplies 
the place of the skirt. It is fastened in some incomprehensi- 
ble way, without the aid of strings or pins, and falls from the 
hips a little below the knees. The guipil and nagua are 
however adopted in nearly all the large towns, and are 
everywhere worn on festival days and Sundays. The men 
wear a kind of cotton drawers, fastened above the hips, but 
firequently reaching no lower than the knees. Sandals sup- 
ply the place of shoes, but for the most part both sexes go 

18 



274 JSriCAEAGUA — ^NAERATIVE. 

with their feet bare. The taste for ornament is universal ; 
and a rosary, to which is attached a little golden, silver, or 
ebony cross, is suspended from the necks of male and female, 
old and young. They are also fond of flowers, and the girls 
are seldom without some of them entwined amongst the lux- 
uriant locks of their long, black hair, or braided in a chaplet 
and encircling their foreheads. 










AN INDIAN GIEL OF SUBTIABA IN HOLIDAY COSTUME. 

The municipality of Subtiaba, in common with the barrios 
of some of the towns, holds lands, as I have said, in virtue 
of royal grants, in its corporate capacity. These lands are 
inalienable, and are leased to the inhabitants at low and 
almost nominal rates. Every citizen is entitled to a sufficient 
quantity to enable him to support himself and his family ; 
for which he pays from four rials (half a dollar,) to two dol- 
lars a year. This practice seems to have been of aboriginal 
institution ; for under the ancient Indian organization, the 
right to live was recognized as a fundamental principle in the 
civil and social system. No man was supposed to be 



THE EIGHT TO LIVE. 275 

entitled to more land than was necessary to Lis support ; nor 
was lie permitted to hold more than that, to the exclusion or 
injury of others. 

In fact, many of the institutions of the Indians in this 
country were recognized, and have been perpetuated by the 
Spaniards. Some of the ceremonies of the aboriginal ritual 
have also been incorporated amongst the rites of the Catholic 
Church. In many respects it is hard to say whether the 
conquerors have assimilated most to the Indians, or the In- 
dians to the Spaniards. For, however rude and subverting 
the first shock of Spanish conquest in America, the subse- 
quent policy of Spain, framed and directed by the famous 
Council of the Indies, was that of conciliation. In common 
with the church, it conceded much to the habits and feel- 
ings of the aborigines, and to a certain extent conformed to 
them. 

The conquest of Nicaragua was effected with no less vio- 
lence than that of Mexico and Peru ; and if we may credit 
the account of Las Casas, the pious bishop of Chiapa, who 
visited the country in person, it was both attended and fol- 
lowed by extraordinary cruelties. He charges the enormity 
chiefly upon Pedro Arias de Avila, Grovernor of Darien, who 
sent Cordova to subdue the country, and who himself after- 
wards became its governor. 

" The Indians of this province," he says, " were naturally 
of a mild and peaceable temper ; yet notwithstanding this, the 
Governor, or rather Tyrant, with the ministers of his cruelty, 
treated them in the same manner as they did those of the 
other kingdoms. They committed murders and robberies, 
more than it is possible for pen to relate. Upon the slight- 
est pretexts, the soldiers massacred the inhabitants without 
regard to age, sex, or condition. They exacted from them 
certain measures of corn, and certain numbers of slaves, and 
if these were not rendered, hesitated not to kill the delin- 
qi^ants. And the country being plain, the people were 



276 NICARAGUA — NAEEATIVE. 

unable to escape to the mountains as they did elsewhere, and 
were consequently at the mercy of the Spanish horse. They 
carried off many thousands as slaves, slaying those who 
fainted or wearied on the march. 

" The Grovernor once arbitrarily changed the distribution 
of the Indians, conveying most of them to his favorites, to the 
exclusion of those with whom he was displeased. The result 
of this was a great scarcity of food ; and the Spaniards seiz- 
ing upon the provisions of the Indians, caused a great distress, 
and induced a disorder which destroyed upwards of thirty 
thousand of the people. 

" All the cities, and fields around them, were like pleasant 
gardens, which the Spaniards cultivated according to the 
share which each one had assigned him by lot ; and to save 
their own revenues, supported themselves from the stores of 
the Indians, thus consuming, in a short time, what these poor 
people had got together with great care and toil. Nobles, 
women, and children were all compelled to work day and 
and night ; many died under the burthens which were im- 
posed upon them. For they obliged them to carry on their 
shoulders to the ports, which were in some cases distant thirty 
leagues, the plank and timbers used in building vessels." 

Las Casas, however, regards the practice of exacting slaves 
from the caziques, for transportation and sale elsewhere, as 
one of the chief causes of the depopulation of the country. 
Five or six ship -loads were annually taken to Peru and 
Panama, and sold there. He calculates that half a million of 
Indians were thus drawn out of Nicaragua alone ; but this 
number appears incredible. The statement that from fifty to 
sixty thousand perished in the wars of the Conquest is per- 
haps, nearer the truth; for, as he observes, "this was one of 
the best peopled countries in all America." 

When the Council of the Indies began to repress the cru- 
elties of the conquerors, the governors of Nicaragua proved 
themselves refractory ; indeed, Eodrigo de Contreras openl|r 



EARLY CRUELTY TOWARDS THE INDIANS. 277 

disobeyed his instructions in this respect, wliicli was the 
proximate cause of the insurrection headed by his son, to 
which I have elsewhere alluded. 

The following incident, related by Oviedo, will illustrate 
the severe and repulsive measures which were practised to- 
wards the Indians at this early period. " In 1528, the trea- 
surer, Alonzo de Peralta, and a man named Zurita, and the 
brothers Ballas, left the city of Leon, each to visit the vil- 
lages and Indians belonging to him. ^ They never returned, 
having been destroyed by their own vassals. Hereupon 
Pedro Arias de Avila sent out soldiers to bring in some 
of the malefactors. They arrested seventeen or eighteen 
caziques whom Pedro Arias caused to be strangled by dogs. 
The execution took place in the following manner, on Tues- 
day, the 16th of June of the same year, in the public square 
of Leon. Bach cazique was armed with a stick, and told to 
defend himself against the dogs, and to kill them if he could. 
Five or six young dogs were first set upon them, which their 
masters' wished to train, as they were yet without experience. 
They ran baying around the Indian, who easily kept them 
off with his stick ; but the moment he thought himself con- 
queror, a couple of mastiffs, or well-trained hounds, were sent 
against him, who threw him in a moment. The other dogs 
then fell upon him, biting and choking him, tearing out his 
entrails, and devouring him, as it were. In this manner the 
eighteen were soon disposed of They were from the valley 
of Olocoton, and its vicinity. "When the dogs were satiated, 
the dead bodies remained in the same place, it being forbid- 
den to carry them off, under penalty of being served in like 
manner ; otherwise the Indians would have taken them away. 
They were thus left in order to frighten the natives ; but on 
the second day the stench of the dead bodies became insup- 
portable. And on the fourth, it was so horrible that, being 
compelled to pass there in going to the house of the governor, 
I begged him to give permission to have them carried away ; 



278 NICAEAGUA — ^NABRATIVE. 

wMcli he did the more readily, since his house was situated 
near the square." 

But whatever their former condition, the Indians of Nica- 
ragua no longer labor under any disabihties. They enjoy 
equal privileges with the whites, and may aspire to any 
position, however high, both in the Church and State. The 
system of peonage (slavery under a less repugnant name) is 
here unknown. Yet the Indian retains his traditionary 
deference for the white man, and tacitly admits his superi- 
ority. In some of the States of Central America, a jealousy 
of caste has been artfully excited by unscrupulous partisans, 
for unworthy purposes, which has led to most deplorable 
results ; but in Nicaragua, if this feeling exists at all, it is 
only, in a latent form. At alny rate, it has never displayed 
itself in any of those frightful demonstrations which have 
almost desolated Guatemala and portions of Peru, and which 
threaten the entire extinction of the white race in Yucatan. 
This quiet, however, may be that of the slumbering volcano ; 
and its continuance may depend very much upon the judicious 
encouragement of white emigration from the United States 
and from Europe. 

The original inhabitants of Nicaragua, and of Central 
America generally, seem to "have been of the true Toltecan 
stock. So too were the nations of Anahuac, the Aztecs or 
Mexicans, but modified and deteriorated by association and 
intermixture with the barbarous Chichemecas. From this 
source they derived the fiercer and more savage traits in 
their characters ; and even now, notwithstanding that they 
have to a great extent adopted new customs, and been sub- 
jected to the influences of Spanish association for more than 
three hundred years, the distinguishing traits of the two 
families are easily to be ]:;^cognized. The mild, brave but 
not warlike, industrious, intelligent, and law-abiding Indians 
about Leon, of the purer Toltecan blood, famish in their 
smaller and more rounded forms, their regular features, clear 



INDIAN TKAITS. 279 

eyes, and clieerful expression, a decided contrast to tlie rest- 
less, treacherous, and cruel Indians round the ancient city of 
Nicaragua. The latter are taller, more bony, with sharper 
and often irregular features, and with an always reserved if 
not sullen expression. The contrast is hardly greater than 
between the French and the Dutch. Yet none of these In- 
dians could ever be confounded with the roving tribes of our 
latitude. They have certain generic or radical identities, but 
in most physical and mental features, are widely different. 
Those of Central America are capable of high improvement, 
and have a facility of assimilation or adaptation. They con- 
stitute, when favorably situated, the best class of citizens, 
and would anywhere make what in Europe is called a good 
rural or working population. I have found some reaUy 
comprehensive minds amongst them, — men of quick and 
acute apprehension, and great decision and energy of char- 
acter. 

In brief, the better I become acquainted with the various 
aboriginal famihes of the continent, the higher position I am 
disposed to award them, and the less I am disposed to assent 
to the relative rank assigned them by the systematic writers. 

I have already mentioned the interview between our Ameri- 
can friend in Grranada, and tha rebel chief, Somoza. Soon 
after our arrival in Leon, positive information was received 
that he had been successful in his descent upon San Carlos, 
and had got possession of the arms and ammunition which 
had been deposited there. He, however, did not attempt to 
retain possession of the place, but returned immediately with 
his spoils to the city of Nicaragua. Meantime, nevertheless, 
as I have already intimated, the support which he had 
received from the party opposed to the government, had 
been entirely withdrawn, in consequence of the excesses 
which he had committed, and he came back to find his adhe- 
rents dispirited and rapidly diminishing. The decision and 
^ energy of the government further contributed to weaken his 



280 NICARAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 

power ; and when the Greneral-in-cliief arrived in Ms neigli- 
borliood, lie was left with less than half his original forces. 
His spirit, however, never failed him, and he boldly advanced 
to meet the troops of the government. The first battle was 
at a place called the " Obraje." Here he was worsted, and 
compelled to fall back npon his original position, at the town 
of San George, about a league distant from the city of Eivas, 
or Nicaragua. Greneral Munoz, having effected a junction 
with the volunteers from Granada, who had proceeded by 
water, attacked him here the next day, (July 14th,) com- 
pletely routed his forces, and took him and his principal fol- 
lowers prisoners. It • is hardly necessary to add that they 
were tried by court-martial, and shot. 

The information of these events was received in Leon with 
extravagant demonstrations of joy, and for a whole day we 
were stunned by the firing of guns and the ringing of bells. 
In the evening the following Bulletin was issued : 

" Bernabe Somoza, the author of misfortunes and the cause of evils 
which can never be repaired, was captured in San Jorge on the evening 
of the 14th inst., after the defeat of his forces by the army of the Grovern- 
ment. Subsequently to the -action he was taken to the city of Eivas, tried 
according to martial law, sentenced to death, and shot (fue pasado por las 
armas), on the morning of the 17th, in the presence of the entire ariny. 
The General in Chief then harangued the troops in the following impress- 
ive terms : 

" ' Soldiers I We have, in a very few days, completed a glorious ■ cam- 
paign. This happy result is due to your valor, constancy, subordination, 
and endurance. The monster, Somoza, the terror of the innocent inhab- 
itants of this department, has suffered the just punishment of his crimes. 
The robber, the incendiary, the desecrator of temples, the violator of 
female innocence, the murderer, has passed from beneath the sword of 
human justice to the awfal presence of an offended Grod ! Soldiers, you 
have saved the honor and preserved the integrity of the State, vindicated 
humanity, and avenged the violated laws. For this I thank you ; you 
have merited and wiU receive the gratitude of your country. Should the 



END OF THE INSUREECTION. 281 

occasion arise, (wliicli God forbid !) I shall be proud to lead you again to 
victory. Long live the Government I God save the Repubhc !' 

" Thus has triumphed the cause of order, of progress, and of reason ! 
Thanks to the illustrious General Munoz and his brave soldiers, the bul- 
■wark and safeguard of the State ! Their deeds speak for themselves j 
they need no encomiums. They teach us an impressive lesson of patriot- 
ism and virtue." 

These events put an end to the internal disturbances of tlie 
State. The followers of Somoza at once disbanded, and re- 
turned to their homes, f A few arrests were made ; but with 
a moderation which reflected honor upon the government, 
and commended it to the people at large, a general amnesty- 
was conceded to all who had participated in the insurrection, 
upon the condition of the surrender of their arms, and the 
restitution of the property and valuables which they had 
taken, and which commissioners were appointed to receive, 
and to restore to their rightful owners. 

Upon the 16th of August following, having completely 
reestabhshed order , and taken proper precautions against 
further disturbances, Gren. Munoz returned with his forces to 
Leon. He was met by a deputation from the city at the 
" Convento," where speeches were made, and congratulations 
exchanged, and whence the troops marched in triumph to 
the city. They were received with great enthusiasm, and 
proceeded in a body to the Cathedral, where the " Te Deum" 
was sung in acknowledgment of their safe return. The 
extraordinary battalion was at once disbanded, and the regu- 
lars only retained in the service. It was some months, how- 
ever, before the vigilance of the government was at all 
diminished, and not until every revolutionary symptom 
seemed to have died out. Subsequently a medal was voted 
to the General, " for the excellent services which, under Grod," 
he had rendered the State. It was ordered to be of gold, 
and to contain upon one side a laurel wreath, with the words, 
"To THE Defender of Liberty and Order in ISTica- 



282 NICAEAGUA — NAERATIVE. 

RAGUA;" and upon tlie reverse a naked sword, witli the 
inscription, " For his Triumph of July 14, 1849." Medals 
were also voted to the subordinate officers wlio had particu- 
larly distinguished themselves on the same occasion; and 
the "soldiers and patriots" who had fought in the ranks, 
were decorated upon the left shoulder with a shield, bordered 
with gold, containing a palm tree in the centre, with two 
swords crossed below, and the words "EiVAS, July 14, 
1849." The State also voted a pension " to the wounded, 
and to the fathers, widows, and children of those who had 
fallen in the service." And at the same time decreed " that 
in profound recognition of his visible protection, the corpo- 
rations and authorities of the State, civil and military, would 
unite in a public and solemn manifestation of thanks to God, 
in the holy Cathedral, on the 2d of September." 

And while upon this subject, I may anticipate events a 
little, and describe the ceremonial, for which great prepara- 
tions were made, and which was conducted with great 
solemnity. Upon the morning of the day high mass was 
said in the Cathedral, in presence of all the of&cers of State, 
and the army. The soldiers occupied the grand aisle, and 
the citizens filled the outer ones. After this was concluded, 
a procession was formed, preceded by a large silver cross, 
beneath which drooped the flag of the State. Then came the 
military band, next the host, borne by the Bishop in person, 
beneath a heavy crimson canopy of velvet. He was sur- 
rounded by the higher dignitaries of the church, and followed 
by the officers of the State and army, bare-headed, and all 
moving in a hollow square of soldiers, also with heads un- 
covered and guns reversed. Then came the chanters of the 
Cathedral, the soldiers, and the citizens. But the most sin- 
gular features of the procession were the statues of the saints, 
which, borne on men's shoulders, were distributed at inter- 
vals throughout the line. Many of these were of the size of 
life, and in their golden, tinselled, and fantastic robes, pro- 



FESTIVAL OF PEACE. 283 

duced a very singular effect. Amongst them was San Beni- 
to, a little black fellow, canonized, doubtless, by a far-seeing 
and politic cburcli to conciliate the colored population. He 
is, by the way, the most popular saint in Nicaragua, and has 
a grand annual festival at Masaya, to which devotees flock 
from all parts of Central America. Men, women, and chil- 
di'en alike joined in the " Procession of Peace," which moved 
slowly through the principal streets, stopping in front of each 
of the churches to chant a prayer of thanks. It finally re- 
turned to the Cathedral, where the " Te Deum" was sung, 
and the assemblage dismissed under a benediction from the 
Bishop. No sooner was this more sober part of the ceremony 
over, than the everlasting ringing of bells and the firing of 
guns commenced again, and was kept up until dark, 'when 
there was an exhibition of fireworks in the plaza. 

Thus ended the insurrection of Somoza, and thenceforward 
Leon wore a more cheerful aspect. The conduct of the gov- 
ernment, from its commencement to its close, was marked with 
great justice and moderation, and afforded, in these respects, 
a striking and most favorable contrast to that which has for 
many years distinguished mOitary operations in Central 
America. 




■W" 



CHAPTBE XI. 

ANTIQUITIES — ANCIENT STATUE IN THE GRAND PLAZA — ^MONUMENTS ON THS 

ISLAND OF MOMOTOMBITA IN LAKE MANAGUA DETERMINE TO VISIT THEM 

THE PADRE PAUL — PUEBLO NUEVO AJSTD OUR OLD HOSTESS — A NIGHT RIDE — 
" HACIENDA DE LAS VACAS" — A NIGHT AMONGST THE " VAQUEROS" — THE LAKE 
— OUR BONGO — VISIT THE HOT SPRINGS OF MOMOTOMBO — ATTEMPT TO REACH 

ONE OF THE " INFERNALES" OF THE VOLCANO — TERRIBLE HEAT GIVE UP THE 

ATTEMPT — OVIEDO'S ACCOUNT OF THE VOLCANO — " PUNTA DE LOS PAJAROS" — 
MOMOTOMBITA — DREAD OF RATTLESNAKES — THE MONUMENTS — RESOLVE TO 
REMOVE THE LARGEST — ^A NEST OF SCORPIONS — TRIBULATION OF OUR CREW — 
HARD WORK — HOW TO SHIP AN IDOL — VIRTUES OF AGUARDIENTE — " PUR- 
CHASING AN elephant" — MORE " PIEDRAS ANTIGUAs" — THE ISLAND ONCE IN- 
HABITED — SUPPOSED CAUSEWAY TO THE MAIN LAND — A PERILOUS NIGHT VOY- 
AGE — DIFFICULT LANDING ^ALACRAN OR SCORPION DANCE — A FOOT MARCH IN 

THE FOREST — THE " HACIENDA DE LAS VACAS" AGAIN — SCANT SUPPER — RETURN 
TO LEON — THE IDOL SENT, VIA CAPE HORN, TO WASHINGTON — A SATISFIED 
PADEE — IDOLS FROM SUBTIABA — ^MONSTROUS HEADS — VISIT TO AN ANCIENT 
TEMPLE — FRAGMENTS — MORE IDOLS — INDIAN SUPERSTITIONS — " EL TORO" — 
LIGHTING ON TWO LEGS — ^A CHASE AFTER HORSES — SWEET REVENGE — " CAPILLA 
DE LA PIEDRA" — PLACE OF THE IDOL — THE FRAY FRANCISCO DE BOBADILLA — 
HOW HE CONVERTED THE INDIANS — PROBABLE HISTORY OF MY IDOLS — THE 

ANCIENT CHURCH "lA MERCEDES DE SUBTIABA" — ITS RUINS GARRAPA- 

TAS TROPICAL INSECTS — SNAKES AND SCORPIONS VerSV^ FLEAS AND WOOD- 
TICKS — A CHOICE OF EVILS. 

Amongst tlie objects of interest wliich early attracted my 
attention in Leon, was an ancient figure or statue of stone, 
planted at one of the corners of tlie principal plaza. It was 
of basalt, boldly sculptured, and represented a man with his 
hands clasped on his breast, and apparently seated upon 
some kind of pedestal. The lower part of the figure, how- 
ever, had been broken, and the fragment which remained 
was little more than one-third of the original length. A 



286 



NICAEAGUA — NARRATIVE. 



fillet was represented bonnd around the brow, and tlie head 
was surmounted by a head-dress somewhat resembling those 
which are to be observed in some of the ancient Egyptian 
sculptures. The face was perfect, with the exception of a 
part of the mouth, which had been broken, and the eyes 
were apparently closed. The whole expression was grave 




IDOL FROM MOMOTOMBITA, NO. 1. 



and serene, and yet so characteristic, that I could not resist 
the impression that it was copied after a living model. The 
accompanying engraving will convey a very correct idea of 
the original, which I procured and presented to the Smith- 
sonian Institution at Washington, where it is now deposited. 
The back of the figure is square, grooved on the edge, and 
notched entirely across, so as to resemble overlapping plates. 
It will be observed that the shoulders appear to be unnatu- 



ANTIQUARIAN EXPEDITION. 287 

rally elevated ; but upon closer examination it will be seen 
that tlie original design seems to liave been to represent the 
figure in the act of supporting some heavy body ; suggesting 
the probability that this, in conjunction with others of sim- 
ilar design, once supported an altar, or another and still 
larger statue. The flat top favors this supposition. 

I found, upon inquiry, that this figure, together with many 
others, had been obtained from the island of Momotombita, 
in Lake Managua, where there were still a number of inter- 
esting monuments. I at once proposed an expedition to the 
island, and availing myself of the time pending the com- 
mencement of my negotiations with the government, set out 
on the 26th of July, in company with Dr. Livingston, and 
Padre Paul, editor of "El Correo del Istmo," the govern- 
ment paper, who was curious in matters of this kind. The 
Padre was a native of Spain, where he had received a liberal 
education, but by some mistake had become a priest. I say . 
mistake, not because the Padre was not a good priest, but 
because nature had intended him for a licenciado, or a poli- 
tician, if not for a traveller. The government, some days 
previous to our departure, had sent orders to Managua for 
boats to be in readiness at a point on the lake, nearest the 
island, called " Piedras Gordas," and there to await our arri- 
val. It was late in the afternoon when we left the city for 
Pueblo Nuevo, where we proposed to pass the night. The 
road was the same over which we had travelled in our jour- 
ney to Leon ; but the season was now further advanced, and 
the great plain was shrouded with a vegetation three-fold more 
luxuriant than before. The maize, which a few weeks pre- 
viously hardly covered the ground, was now breast high ; 
the cactus fences too were relieved by yellow flowers, and 
the inner leaves surrounding the stalk, bending outward, dis- 
played their delicate pink linings to the sun. 

The Padre was mounted on a splendid mule, gaily capari- 
soned, and with his cassock tucked up, heavy riding boots, 



288 NICAEAGUA — NARRATIVE. 

and massive silver spurs, followed by Ms servant, with an 
" alforjas," fall of edibles, made a dashing figure at the bead 
of our little cavalcade. He rode like a trooper, and seemed 
to enjoy the freedom of tbe forest quite as much as any sin- 
ner. A stranger might have taken him for a soldier in dis- 
guise, or an eager lover speeding to a distant mistress. It 
was a tearing ride, that twenty-four miles to Pueblo ISTuevo, 
and in less than three hours we dismounted at the door of the 
house where I had slept on my previous j ourney. The old lady 
and her five daughters had had no warning of our coming, 
and were evidently mortified to be found sans satin slippers, 
and with hair dishevelled. But before supper was ready 
they all made their appearance in full costume, as before, and 
we ventured upon a comphment or two by way of compen- 
sating for the contretemps of our sudden arrival. 

"We found that it was yet upwards of three leagues to the 
•"Piedras Grordas" where our boat was waiting, and as we 
were anxious to be there by sunrise, we resolved to proceed 
to a cattle estate, near the place, that night. The Padre did 
not relish the idea of leaving comfortable quarters for the 
doubtful accommodations of the "hacienda de las vacas" and 
was eloquent in describing the difficulties and dangers of 
riding through unfrequented forest paths in the night time ; 
but the Padre was in a minority, and had to submit. "We 
accordingly procured a guide, and started. For a couple of 
miles we kept the main road, and got along smoothly ; we 
then turned off at right angles into the forest. The night 
was exceedingly dark, and the path narrow, and even in the 
daytime obscure. But our guide seemed entirely at home, 
and we followed as well as we were able. Occasionally he 
shouted " cuidado ! " "take care," which was the signal to fall 
flat on our horses, in order to escape the hmbs and branches 
of the trees. But notwithstanding all our caution, we got 
some most ungentle thumps and scratches, and were several 
times nearly dragged from our saddles. Once we became 



HACIENDA DE LAS VACAS. 289 

entangled for a quarter of an hour, in tho top of a fallen tree, 
and liad literally to cut our way througli it -vvitli our swords 
and machetes. The Padre considerately kept in the rear, and 
got the benefit of all our experiences. Our progress was 
necessarily very slow, and I began to fear that we had lost 
our way, and almost to repent that we had not taken the 
Padre's advice, when we heard the lowing of cattle and the 
barking of dogs in the distance. Thus encouraged, we pressed 
on, and soon came into a broader path. We pursued this for 
some distance, the barking of the dogs becoming everj- 
moment more distinct, until finally emerging from the woods, 
we galloped towards a little eminence, where a number of 
fires proclaimed the existence of the cattle rancho. It was 
surrounded by a kind of stockade, or fence of upright posts, 
and, as we approached, we were saluted with a ferocious 
'■'' Qujkn vivef'' who are you? Mght descents by robbers, 
on the haciendas, during civil disturbances in the countr}', 
are by no means uncommon occurrences ; and as the estates 
have usually a considerable number of men attached to them, 
they sometimes result in severe fights. Our approach had 
therefore alarmed the establishment, and had not our guide 
been known, we might have been turned back with a volley, 
instead of having the gate opened to us with an invitation to 
enter. In the centre of the square was a mud house, sur- 
rounded by a thatched shed, beneath which a dozen ham- 
mocks were suspended. Three or four fires were smoulder- 
ing just outside of this shed, and around them were rechning 
some calves which had been bitten by bats, or injured by 
"wild animals. A dozen surly dogs stalked amongst the 
swarthy "vaqueros," or herdsmen, whose half naked figures 
were just visible by the faint red light of the fires. A 
couple of women, alarmed by the sound of voices, hurried, 
scantily dressed, from the house, but were at once reassured 
by the Padre. Altogether, with the champing horses, and 

19 



290 NICARAGUA — ^NAEEATIVE. 

the gleaming of arms, slmt in as it was by tlie darkness 'as 
with a pall, the scene was singularly wild and picturesque. 

The animals attended to, the next thing was to dispose 
ourselves for the night. The women offered us the house, 
in which were two naked hide beds. My bones were ago- 
nized at the sight of them, and I chose a hammock beneath 
the shed, and wrapping myself in my blanket, tumbled in. 
The men gave up their places without grumbling, and 
stretched themselves on the bare earth. Soon all was still, 
except the melancholy howl of the " mono Colorado," and 
the low, distant murmur of the lake. I slept soundly until 
roused by Ben's morning gun at the earliest dawn. He had 
already prepared a cup of chocolate, which, with a cracker 
and di^jicara of fresh milk, constituted our breakfast. The 
horses were saddled, and giving the princely sum of a rial 
each to the men whom we had so summarily dislodged, we 
started for the lake. The road was through a beautiful 
forest of large trees, which the cattle kept comparatively free 
from underbrush, and which had occasional open places, 
where the ground was covered with long fresh grass. Half 
an hour brought us to the shore. The sun had not yet risen, 
but a brilliant coronet of rays shot up above the sharply 
defined and fantastic outlines of the distant mountains of 
Segovia, and was reflected in the tremulous waters of the 
lake. Immediately in front^ towered the volcano of Momo- 
tombo ; its lower half purple in the shade, and its upper of 
the richest amber. A thin column of smoke rose almost 
perpendicularly from its summit, which first caught the crim- 
son rays of the sun, and then changed to gold. Upon the 
right, a perfect cone, was the island for which we were 
bound, and in the foreground our boat, half drawn up on 
the shore, and near by, at the root of a great tree, clustering 
around their breakfast fire, was its crew. They had been 
encamped here for two days, awaiting our arrival; and 



LAKE MANAGUA. 291 

■would have -waited a month for that matter — ^for what was 
time to them, so long as the lake furnished fish, and plantains 
were plenty? 

Our horses were fastened to a long rope, one behind the 
other, and sent back in charge of our guide to the hacienda, 
with express instructions to have them on the shore again at 
nightfall, in case we should return. Our boat, like some of 
the bongos on Lake Nicaragua, was hollowed from the single 
trunk of a cebia tree. It was upwards of forty feet long, and 
full six feet broad, permitting a tall man to lie across its bot- 
tom. There was no wind, and the men were obliged to take 
to their oars. And as it was not greatly out of our way, we 
determined before going to the island to pass to the foot of 
the great volcano, and visit the hot springs at its base. The 
intervening bay is upwards of ten miles broad, but we crossed 
it before nine o'clock. "While on the lake, we had an excel- 
lent opportunity to view the volcano. It is about six thou- 
sand feet, or one mile and a fourth, in perpendicular height, 
and very steep, — so steep, indeed, that even if there were no 
danger in the ascent, it would probably be impossible to 
reach its summit. Its lower half is co-^pred with trees, which 
in the ravines that seam its sides run up still higher, gradu- 
ally narrowing like the points of a ruff. The upper half 
seems made up of scoria, which, near the summit, gives place 
to ashes of a white color. The crater appears small and reg- 
ular in outline ; and there are some openings on the sides, 
towards its base, which emit steam and smoke, and around 
which sulphur is deposited on the rocks. These are called 
"infernales," and we observed one on the side towards us, 
at a comparatively small elevation, which greatly excited our 
curiosity, and which we resolved to visit. 

At the point where we landed, the ground was composed 
of a kind of ochery earth, of a dark red color, varied with 
yellow, which the boatmen told us was used for paint. A 
fourth of a mile to the right, and immediately at the edge of 



292 NICABAGUA — NAEEATIVE. 

the lake, were tlie " fuent'es calientes," or hot springs. They 
are hundreds in number ; in fact, for a considerable extent, 
the ground was covered with white incrustations, resembling 
a field of snow ; and as we walked over it, the sound of the 
water beneath was like that of a violently boiling cauldron. 
There were numerous openings, from which rose columns of 
steam, and where the water boiled up to the height of from 
six inches to two feet. Around some of these places the de- 
posites had gradually built up little cones, with openings in 
the centre, where the clear water bubbled as in a kettle. I 
sent specimens of the deposites to the United States for 
analysis, but they unfortunately miscarried, and I am conse- 
quently unable to give the constituents of which they are 
made up. They will no doubt be duly announced when the 
" Grand Yolcano Hotel, and North American Natural Hot 
Spring Bath Establishment," shall be opened for invalids, 
on the shores of Lake Managua. ^ 

Between the shore and the true base of the volcano is a 
gentle slope, ridged with beds of lava, which run down into 
the lake, but which have become disintegrated on the surface, 
and are now covered with coarse grass, bushes, and clumps 
of trees. Here cattle from distant haciendas are allowed to 
roam from one year's end to the other, until they become 
almost as wild as the deer themselves. The vaqueros occa- 
sionally visit them, to mark the young ones, or to select the 
best ones for sale, but beyond this they receive no care or 
attention. We started over this slope, in the direction of 
the smoking orifice which we had observed from the lake. 
But we were under the lee of the mountains, where not a 
breath of wind reached us, and exposed to the fall glow of 
the sun ; and before we had gone a mile, we almost repented 
of our undertaking. The doctor, the padre, and myself 
alone persisted in proceeding. The surface became rougher 
as we advanced, and scrubby trees and thorny bushes im- 
peded our progress, and shut out from view the place which 



VOLG-'LNIC VENTS. 293 

we were struggling to reach. We next came to ridges of 
treaclierous, scoriaceoiis sand, wliicli yielded beneath our feet, 
and which we only ascended by clinging to the clumps of 
grass which grew here and there, and by driving our swords 
to their hilts in the ground, as supports. But our progress 
was slow and painful, and we were compelled to pause every 
second minute to recover our strength. Finally, the sun 
was no longer hot, it was withering, and the dry scoriae be- 
came blistering to the touch. I looked up towards the top 
of the volcano, and shall never forget its utterly bald and 
desolate appearance. The atmosphere on its sides seemed to 
undulate with heat, and the reflected rays burned my eye- 
balls. I turned to my companions, and found that they suf- 
fered equally with myself. The padre had wisely bound his 
handkerchief over his head and eyes. It was folly, he said, 
to attempt to go further, and we concurred with him, and 
retraced our steps. The descent was of course comparatively 
easy, but when I reached the boat, I was completely exhaust- 
ed, and adequately convinced of the folly of attempting to 
climb volcanoes under a tropical sun, at mid-day. 

Oviedo speaks of this volcano as one very high, " its sum- 
mit pierced by a multitude of separate orifices, whence smoke 
is always rising, which can be seen at the distance of twenty 
leagues. No flame," he continues, "is visible by day or 
night. An abundance of sulphur may be found here, accord- 
ing to the report of those who have used it in the manufac- 
ture of powder, and also of those who have used it for other 
purposes. On the sides and parts adjacent to this volcano, 
for a distance of five or six leagues, there is an abundance of 
springs of boiling water like the Sufretarari, (Solfatara,) 
that may be seen at Pouzzole, two or three leagues from 
Naples. I should think that all these mountains formed but 
one mine of sulphur. There are also orifices through which 
proceeds a stream of air, so warm as to be unendurable. If 
we approach it, we seem to hear the uproar of a vast number 



294 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 

of forges in full blast, sometimes ceasing, and in a few 
moments recommencing again ; but tbe time tbe noise can be 
heard is at least four times as long as the pauses. Near tlie 
village of Totoais a thermal spring, so warm that the Indians 
use it for cooking their meat, fish, and bread. These articles 
of food are cooked in less time than it would take to repeat 
the Gredo twice ; and as for eggs, they would be done sooner 
than an Ave.'''' 

We found our men quietly smoking their cigars under the 
shade of a tree, perfectly careless as to whether they stayed 
there all day or proceeded. Such an imperturbable set I 
verily believe were never before got together. We told 
them to push off for the island, which they did in the most 
leisurely manner. The wind had begun to blow, and as it 
was against us, they towed the boat along under the lee of 
the shore, walking by its side in the water, which, at the 
distance of a quarter of a mile out, was hardly breast-deep. 
We saw many deer, and a number of lazy alligators on the 
shore, but beyond the reach of our rifles. We finally came 
to the " Punta del Pajaro," a high ledge of naked basaltic 
rocks projecting out into the lake, and covered with myriads 
of water -fowls. Here our men took to their oars, and paddled 
direct for the island. The afternoon wind was now blowing 
strongly, and the lake was rough. It required two hours' 
hard rowing to bring us to the island, where we pulled ashore 
in a little cove, protected from the swell of the lake. 

This island is volcanic, and rises in a regular cone from the 
water's edge, to the height of two thousand eight hundred 
feet. It is about eight miles in circumference, and is covered 
with a dense forest. The shore where we landed was stony, 
but a short distance back the stones gave place to sand and a 
rich loam. Yictorino, our patron, knew the locality of the 
monuments, and putting on his sandals, took his machete, 
and led the way, peering suspiciously to the right and the 
left. We inquired the cause of his caution, and received the 



ISLAND OP MOMOTOMBITA. 295 

comforting assurance "hay muclios cascabeles," "there 
are many rattlesnakes ! " The Dr. whipped out his sword, 
stepped high, and constantly startled us by mistaking vines, 
coiling on the ground, for " cascabeles." After proceeding 
for about half an hour, we came to a spot where the under- 
brush and bushes gave place to high grass. Here was a kind 
of natural amphitheatre, within which the ground was smooth, 
sloping gently towards the lake, and shadowed over with 
high trees. This, Yictorino informed us, was the site of the 
monuments, but they had all fallen, and the tall grass hid 
them from our view. We were compelled to beat it down 
with our machetes, and thus discover the figures one by 
one. As I have said, many had been carried away, and 
most of those which remained were broken, or so defaced as 
to be of little value for my purposes. Yictorino said that he 
could remember when there were as many as fifty statues 
here, and when some of them stood erect. According to his 
account and that of others, they had been arranged in the 
form of a square, their faces looking inwards ; and the posi- 
tion of those which remained, and of the fragments, confirmed 
the story. Amongst the few still entire, was one of large 
size, and which a party, sent by the English Consul, had a 
few years before endeavored to carry away for the British 
Museum, but after getting it part of the way to the lake, had 
abandoned it in despair. It was ruder than some of the 
others, but perfect, and I at once resolved to remove it, with 
a view of sending it to the United States. I accordingly sent 
Yictorino to bring his boat and men to the nearest point 
possible, and with Dr. Livingston, the Padre, and Ben, began to 
cut down small trees of the proper size for skids or pries, and 
to open a path to the lake. When Yictorino came with his 
lazy crew, we set them to work also, but they did not accom- 
plish much, and we soon found that we had to bear the 
burthen of the labor ourselves. With great difficulty we 
cleared a road, and laying down large skids rolled the figure 



296 



NICARAGUA — NAERATIVE. 



upon them. Beneafh it a colony of "alacrans del monte,' 
or black scorpions, had established themselves ; and in an 
instant they swarmed around our legs. The half naked 

Indians retreated precipitately, 
but, protected by our high, thick 
boots we stood our ground, and 
stamped the little stinging mon- 
sters to death with our heels. 
It was not, however, until we 
had succeeded in moving the 
statue some distance from the 
spot, that we could persuade 
the Indians to rejoin us. After 
two hours of hard work, we 
rolled it to the shore ; but now 
the question was to get it in 
the boat. Yictorino protested, 
in the first place, against trying 
to carry it at all, as it would 
surely crush the boat and drown 
us ; and, in the second place, 
against putting it in the bot- 
tom, which, he said, it would 
inevitably break through. In 
fact we were a good deal stag- 
gered ourselves ; we had not 
thought of this, but neverthe- 
less determined not to lose our 




IDOL PROM MOMOTOMBITA, NO. 2. 



PIEDRAS ANTIGUAS. 



29; 



labor. If it was put at the bottom, even tliougli it might not 
break through, it was clear that we never could muster force 
enough to get it out. So we decided that it should be carried 
by placing it lengthwise on the rowers' seats, which, in order to 
support the weight, were to be strengthened by crossbars. The 
men stood aghast at our proposition, and at first utterly refused 
to assist us. They took the padre aside and told him that 
" these Americans were certainly crazy." We however pro- 
mised them each a half dollar extra, administered a dose of 




FEONT VIEW OF HEAD OF NO. 2. 

brandy and water, and finally got them to take hold again. 
An inclined plane of timbers was built up against the boat, 
which was half filled with stones, to sink her as low as possi- 
ble, and to fix her firmly in the sand. The statue was then 
gradually rolled on board. More than once I thought our 
fabric would break down ; had it done so there would have 
been more crushed legs than whole ones in the company. 
After it was secured, part of the stones were thrown out, and 
we soon had the satisfaction of seeing the bongo afloat, and 
perfectly balanced. A profile view of this figure is given in 
the foregoing engraving. It is regularly cut in black ba- 



298 



NICAEAGUA— NARRATIVE. 



salt, or tracliyte, of intense hardness. The features of the 
face are singularly bold and severe in outline; the brow is 
broad, the nose aquiline, the cheeks high, the mouth open, 
and containing what we may infer (for reasons which will be 
given elsewhere) was intended to represent a human heart. 
The arms and legs are rudely indicated, but the distinctive 
sexual features are broadly marked. And here it may be 
observed that, while most of these statues represent males, 




COLOSSAL HEAD FROM MOMOTOMBITA. 

some of them represent females ; and there are but few in 
which the sex is not distinguishable. The reason for these dis- 
tinctions may be found in the fact that the doctrine of the Ee- 
ciprocal Principles of Nature, or Nature Active and Passive 
Male and Female, was recognized in nearly all the primitive 
religious systems of the New as well as of the Old World, and 
in none more clearly than in those of Central America. Be- 
sides this figure, we carried off the colossal head represented 
in the above drawing ; but found nothing more which would 



TEADITIONAL CAUSEWAY. 299 

repay the trouble of removal. There may have been other 
figures of interest hidden in the long grass and bushes ; and 
Yictorino informed us that upon the opposite side of the 
island there was still another place, where there were formerly 
many " piedras antiguas ; " but that also was overgrown 
with grass. It was now late, and unless we spent the night 
on the island, it was clear we could make no farther examina- 
tions. And as I proposed to return in the dry season, when 
the grass might be removed by burning, we concluded to 
relinquish our explorations for the present. 

The island of Momotombita was anciently inhabited, and 
called Cocobolo. I observed fragments of pottery, and of 
vessels of stone, strewed all over the shore ; and in the little 
cove where we landed there were evidences that the rocks 
had been rolled away to facilitate the approach of boats to 
the land. At a point on the shore of the main land, nearly 
opposite the island, is a line of large stones, extending for 
the distance of one or two hundred yards into the water, and 
projecting above it. The Indians have a vague tradition 
that this was a causeway built by " los antiguos habitantes," 
extending from the shore to the island ; and Capt. Belcher, of 
the British navy, who travelled here in 1838, seems to think 
the story not improbable. The supposed causeway is nothing 
more than a narrow vein of rock injected at some remote, 
period through a fissure in the superior strata or crust of the 
earth ; and being harder than the materials surrounding it, 
has retained its elevation, while they have been worn away 
by the action of the water. 

It was quite sunset when we pushed off fcom the island ; 
and when we got out from under its lee, we found the wind 
blowing a gale, and the sea high. Ours was a ticklish load ; 
and, as the bongo had no keel, the necessity of keeping her 
directly before the wind was obvious ; for had she rolled a 
foot on either side, the stone would have overset us in a 
twinkling. Yictorino was anxious but cool, and his men 



300 NICARAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 

were too mucli alarmed not to obey orders, and we put up 
the sail and got under way without accident. Fortunately 
the winds' here blow with great steadiness, or our voyage 
might have been rendered more perilous than it was, and 
that would have been quite unnecessary. The night fell, 

dark and cloudy ; the Padre and M soon became seasick, 

and the crew, consoling themselves that we had a priest on 
board, gathered around the foot of the mast, and silently told 
their beads. Ben stationed himself, knife in hand, at the 
halyards, and I clung to a stick of light wood which I found 
in the boat, and calculated the chances of getting ashore by 
its aid, in case our stone god should upset us. Altogether 
we had a serious, time, and the three hours which we occu- 
pied in passing to the land seemed quite as long as six under 
ordinary circumstances. It was so dark that we could 
aot distinguish the shore, but fortunately the fire, left by the 
men in the morning, fanned by the wind, had caught in the 
trunk of the tree at the foot of which it was built, and an- 
swered the purpose of a lighthouse in guiding us to our 
destination. Here we succeeded in landing under the lee of 
some large rocks, against which the surf broke with the 
force and noise of the ocean. I now quite comprehended 
why Capt. Belcher, old salt as he was, declined venturing 
upon this lake, even after having brought a boat for the 
purpose all the way from Realejo. I felt no ordinary degree 
of satisfaction when I found myself on terra firma once more. 
In removing the loose articles of our equipment from the 
boat, Ben was twice stung in the hand by a scorpion, and 
danced about the shore in an agony of pain. I however 
wrapped his hand in a cloth soaked in brandy, and gave him 
copious internal doses of the same, — ^the best, and usually 
the most accessible, remedy. 

Our horses were not to be found ; either our guide had not 
brought them down, or else had returned with them to the 
rancheria. We held a council as to whether it was best to 



A NIGHT MARCH. 301 

camp ou the shore or pusli through, the forest to our quarters 
of the preceding night. The uncomfortable wind and a few 
heavy drops of rain decided us ; and, with Yictorino, bearing 
some brands of fire at our head, we set out. It was as dark 
as Erebus in the woods, and quite impossible to discern the 
person nest in advance. We however followed the fire, and 
after a weary march came to the hacienda. We were tired 
and hungry, but there was nothing to eat except tiste and 
curds. We made the most of these, but went to our ham- 
mocks unsatisfied, consohng ourselves, however, with the 
prospect of an illimitable breakfast at the house of our host- 
ess of the five slippered daughters, in Pueblo Nuevo. 

Before leaving next morning, I distributed the promised 
favors amongst our crew, and engaged the entire force of the 
estate to assist our guide, who was to return with a cart for 
the statue. A few days after, it reached Leon, having broken 
down three carts on the road. I subsequently sent it to 
Realejo, whence it was shipped, via Cape Horn, for the 
United States. It is now deposited in the Museum of the 
Smithsonian Institution, at Washington. And thus termi- 
nated my first antiquarian episode in Nicaragua. The Padre 
expressed himself satisfied ; one such ride, he said, was 
enough for a Hfetime. 

I have elsewhere said that the Indians of Subtiaba brought 
me two idols, shortly after my arrival in Leon. A reduced 
back view of the first of these is presented in the subjoined 
engraving. It had been broken, and a portion, perhaps 
comprising one-third of the entire figure, had been lost. The 
part which remains is something less than six feet in height 
by eighteen inches in diameter, or upwards of four feet in 
circumference. The face has been battered with heavy 
sledges, and its features obliterated. The ornaments upon 
the back and elsewhere are, however, very well preserved, 
and are quite elaborate ; more resembling those of Copan 
than any others discovered in the country. The face seems 



302 



NICAEAGUA — ^NAERATIVE, 



to project througli tlie widely distended jaws of some ani- 
mal, the liead of which, serves as a head dress. The ancient 
Mexican soldiers had a common practice of wearing the 
heads of animals, or helmets in imitation of them, on their 
heads in battle, to render themselves horrible, and frighten 
their enemies. Upon its breast the figure sustains a kind of 
plate, or some piece of armor, and upon its right arm wears 




IDOL FROM STJBTIABA, NO. 1. 



a shield. The carving seems to have been very good ; but the 
zeal of the early Christians, and the corroding tooth of time, 
have greatly injured the entire statue, which is now in the 
Museum of the Smithsonian Institution, 

Idol from Subtiaba, No. 2. — This figure closely resem- 



IDOLS FROM SUBTIABA. 



803' 



bles tliut just described, and, like that, has suffered greatly 
from the same cause. The features of the face are entirely 
obliterated ; the design of the head dress is, however, more 
apparent, and is palpably what I have already indicated, the 




IDOL FROM SUBTIABA, NO. 2. 

jaws of some monstrous animal, between which the face of 
the figure projects. It is less elaborately sculptured than 
No. 1, but of the same material, and corresponding in size. 
One hand rests upon the breast, the other hangs loosely at 
the side. This idol also is deposited in the museum of the 
Smithsonian Institution. 



Idols from Subtiaba, No. 3. — Subsequent to the pre- 
sentation of the two figures above described, I had a frag- 



304 



NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 



ment brought to me, of wMch a front view is given in the 
annexed engraving. It is of sand-stone, two feet six inches 

high, by ten or twelve inches in di- 
ameter, much frayed and worn by 
exposure, and greatly injured by 
violence. It bears evidences of 
having been elaborately ornament- 
ed, and seems to have been de- 
signed to represent a female. Its 
most singular feature, however, is 
a mask of the human face, which 
is held upon the abdomen by both 
hands. Perhaps, however, the 
Indians were right in suggest- 
ing that it represents an open- 
ing in the abdomen, held apart 
by the hands, and exposing some 
mythological figure therein con- 
- cealed. There are some reasons 
in support of this suggestion, 
which it would hardly be proper 
to submit in a work of this popu 
lar character. The figure has also been broken, and less 
than half of it now remains. 

The idols above described, as I have already said, were 
brought to my house by the Indians ; and I know nothing 
concerning them, except that they were exhumed near the 
base of the Cerro Sa,ntiago, to the south-west of Leon, where 
they had been buried for several generations. I subse- 
quently learned of the existence of others in the same direc- 
tion, and went, in company with a guide, kindly obtained for 
me by General Guerrero, to examine them. Our route la}- 
through Subtiaba, in the directiou of the ocean. We passed 
over a beautiful undulating country, full of abandoned plan- 
tations, and watered by several fine streams, skirting the 
hills to the south-west of Leon. At the distance of about 




IDOL FROM SUBTIABA, NO. 3. 



MORE MONUMENTS. 305 

three or four leagues from tlie city, we came to a series of 
" jicarales," in the midst of wliich was a cattle estate. Cows 
and deer were herding together, the latter appearing quite as 
tame as the first. Beyond the hacienda was a high, bare hill, 
steep as the pyramids, called Mount St. Michael, the base of 
which is studded round with large loose stones, causing 
our horses to stumble fearfully, and over which we passed 
with great difficulty. We then came to the finest "jica- 
ral" I had yet seen. It resembled a well-kept New Eng- 
land orchard; the trees had fewer parasites to rob them 
of their vitality, and the ground was covered with a smooth 
carpet of grass. Intermixed with these were numbers of the 
wild "jocote" or plum-trees, heavily laden with yellow and 
ed fruit, which was not unpleasant to the taste, but which 
poisoned my lips, and made them sore for a week. The 
same fruit, when cultivated, is fine, and is used in a great 
variety of ways. The forest in which the idols were con- 
cealed commenced abruptly upon one side of the " jicaral," 
and was an almost impenetrable mass of vines, underbrush, 
and broad-leaved tropical plants. A thousand monuments 
might have been buried here for years without being discov- 
ered, except by the merest accident ; and as we had to cut our 
path with our swords, I began to have serious misgivings as 
to the success of our expedition. Our guide, however, peer- 
ing from side to side, seemed confident as to his whereabouts, 
as well as to that of the " piedras," and in half an hour we 
came to the spot where they had existed. I say had existed, 
for although the ground was strewn with fragments, but a 
single figure, "Idol feom Subtiaba, No. 4," remained 
entire. It stood as shown in the accompanying plate, par- 
tially buried in the earth. Its height above the ground was 
six feet four inches; the material, sand-stone. As in the 
other instances, the face ha^.been mutilated, but the remain- 
der of the figure was nearly perfect. The hair seemed to be 
thrown back from the forehead in rolls; or perhaps what I 

20 



306 NICAEAGUA — NARRATIVE. 

have supposed to be tlie liair is a modified example of that 
kind of ornamental featherwork so common in the ancient 
monuments of Mexico, Yucatan, and Central America. A 
broad collar passes around the neck, and a circular plate, or 
shield, with an attempt at a representation of a human face in 
the centre, is suspended from it, in front of the figure. A kind 
of belt passes around the body, above the hips, from which 
depends a flap, like that frequently worn by the Indians of 
the frontiers, even to this day. At the lower extremity of 
this is a round, cup-shaped hole, capable of containing about 
a quart, the purposes of which are not apparent. 

In cutting paths around this figure, I came upon an oblong 
elevation of stones, which seemed to have been the base of 
some edifice, or one of the ancient teocallis or altars of the 
aborigines. It was about two hundred feet long, sixty broad, 
and ten high. Around the edges the stones still retained 
some degree of regularity, but the whole was nevertheless a 
ruin, and large trees were growing on its summit. The nu- 
merous fragments of sculpture scattered around this spot 
showed conclusively that it had been visited by systematic 
violence, not only anciently, at the period of the Conquest, 
but subsequently, and within a very few years. My guide , 
told me that he could remember the time when the Indians 
came here secretly by night, and performed strange dances 
around these idols, and poured out libations before them. 
The ground around the single erect figure above described 
was comparatively free from undergrowth, showing that even 
now it is secretly visited, by the descendants of the people 
who first erected it, for the performance of traditionary, 
sacred ceremonies. The priests are vigilant in detecting and 
putting down these remnants of idolatry ; and only a few 
months before my arrival had broken up a remarkable figure 
of an animal called " Bl Toro," the bull, which existed about 
a league distant from this very spot, and to which the In- 
dians, for a long time, openly resorted, to make offerings of 



A STAMPEDE. 307 

tiste^ and to perform dances preparatory to putting tlieir crops 
in tlie ground. The destruction of tlie idol was effected se- 
cretly, and afterwards proclaimed to have been done by the 
lightnings of indignant heaven; but one of my Indian friends 
told me privately that the Indians understood the trick, and 
knew that this lightning went on two legs, and wore a cas- 
sock I I would have gone to the spot, and endeavored to 
have restored the fragments for a sketch, but my guide told 
me that the natives had carried them off and buried them. 

While engaged with the stones, we had carelessly, and as 
usual, let our horses go loose. For the first time, they now 
took it into their heads to abuse this indulgence, and trotted 
off. The more we endeavored to coax them back the more 
vicious they were, and finally dashed off at full speed into 
the "jicaral," where they kicked up their heels in great 
glee. The prospect of a walk back to Leon, with the loss of 
saddles, pistols, swords, and other et ceteras, if not of the 
brutes themselves, was little calculated to excite our admira- 
tion of these antics. The chase continued half an hour, 
when we succeeded in securing the horse of our guide ; but 
unfortunately he was the poorest of the whole, and not able 
to come near the others in a race. Luckily our guide had 
a lasso, and after another half hour of manoeuvring, in which 
we all got heated and angry, my own horse was secured. 
He was duly " lathered" for his pains, and was handed over 
to the guide to pursue the others ; being the fleetest, the busi- 
ness was soon done. "We took precious good care that they 
should not get the upper hand of us again that day, and 
rode them home with a malignant pressure on the terrible 
Mexican bit, and with no stinted application of the equally 
terrible Spanish- American spur. 

Upon our return, the guide conducted us out of our way 
into a kind of amphitheatre amongst the hills, to what he 
called the "Capilla de la Piedra," the Stone Chapel. It 
was a large rock of conical shape, placed high on the slope 



308 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 

facing tlie entrance to tMs natural circus, and upon that side 
had a niche, or hollow, capable of containing four or five 
persons, and which seemed to have been cut in the rock. 
I failed to satisfy myself whether it was natural or arti- 
ficial ; but finally concluded, from its position and regularity, 
that it was a natural opening in the rock, enlarged and 
modified by art. There were traces of fire, and fragments of 
broken pottery around it, and immediately in front a large 
flat stone, which might have been used for an altar. As I 
looked at it, surrounded by rough, frowning rocks, and 
shrouded with vines, I fancied it an appropriate niche for an 
idol, and imagined this natural amphitheatre filled with a 
superstitious multitude, in blind adoration before it, while 
the blood of human sacrifices flowed perhaps on the very 
spot where I now stood. 

- I have said that I knew not whence the Indians obtained 
the idols which they brought to me, beyond that they were 
exhumed at the base of the Cerro de Santiago, near Subtiaba. 
Now the Fray Feancisco de Bobadilla, of the Order of 
Mercy, was especially active in the conversion of the Indians 
of Nicaragua, which process, according to the chronicler 
Oviedo y Yaldez, consisted in bapti^iing them, giving them a 
Christian name, and exacting forty grains of cacao ! Boba- 
dilla converted forty thousand in three months in the domin- 
ions of the cazique of Nagrando, whose principal town was 
where the city of Leon now stands. He also prevailed upon 
the cazique to allow him to throw down the idols which 
stood in "the spacious and sumptuous temple which the 
Indians, under the special direction of the devil, had erected 
there," and to set up the cross in their stead. After he had 
battered the faces of these idols with a mace, Bobadilla threw 
them down from their high places, intending to burn them 
with fire, in order to show the Indians the impotence of their 
teots ; but, " during the night some did take them away and 
buried them, so that they could not be found." And it is 



A RUINED CHURCH. 309 

not unlikely that those are the very idols exhumed for me 
by the Indians of Subtiaba, two of which, after doubling the 
Horn, now frown down upon the "hijos de Washington," 
from the west corridor of the Smithsonian Institution ! 

Upon the site of this temple was afterwards built the 
Christian church "La Mercedes de Subtiaba," which for 
more than two hundred years has been in ruins. Its adobe 
walls have subsided into brambly mounds, and all is formless 
save the piers on which its wooden pillars stood, and its low, 
Moorish archway, flanked by two slender columns, which 
rise white and spectral above a tangled mass of verdure. The 
town, of which it was once the centre, has shrunk in the 
lapse of time, and is now a mile distant ; and the aboriginal 
city of which Bobadilla speaks, which covered three square 
leagues, and had more than one hundred thousand inhabit- 
ants, has dwindled to less than one fourth of that number. 
We visited this church on our return. Ben cut away the bushes 
with his machete^ and we rode over the outline mounds, and 
stood where the simple Indians had knelt, centuries ago, in 
silent awe before the symbols of a new and imposing religion. 
A few rude wooden crosses marked the deep pits within 
which were heaped the victims of the cholera, when in 1837, 
five years after it had devastated our country, it more than 
decimated the population of Leon. Two or three Indians, 
leturning from their daily toil in the fields, hearing our 
voices, pushed their way through the bushes, and reverently 
took off their hats, when they entered the sacred area. We 
asked them if they knew aught of the ancient church, or who 
built it ? " Quien sale V was the sole reply, and they moved 
the forefinger of the right hand slowly back and forth, in 
token of ignorance. It was very ancient, they said — " muy, 
muy antigua !" Upon the smooth stucco beneath the arch, 
rudely scratched in the lime, I read, " JuAJsr Peralta, 
Estmnjero, 1732." 



310 NICARAGUA- NAREATIVE. 

This cliurcli was built before Hudson floated on tbe waters 
of the magnificent river bearing bis name ; before the Pil- 
grims knelt on the wintry shores of New England, and be- 
fore Smith spread the terrors of his arm among the Indians 
of Virginia. And unless some sacrilegious hand shall level 
the ancient archway, it will yet stand for centuries to mark 
the site of aboriginal superstition, and attest the zeal of the 
Pray Bobadilla, who baptized forty thousand Indians, receiv- 
ing therefor, if they all " paid up," one million six hundred 
thousand grains of cacao. Pious Bobadilla ! 

There are several other ruined and abandoned Christian 
churches now buried in the forests in the suburbs of Subti- 
aba, the dwelling-places of the bats and birds, over whose 
crumbling walls, and around whose falling columns, creep 
the wild vines, blooming with flowers, and shedding their 
fragrance above the silent and deserted altars of the Most 
High. Euins upon ruins — Christian church and heathen 
shrine, they have aU sunk down together. 

We returned to Leon to find ourselves covered with 
" agarrapatas " or wood ticks, with which the forest fairly 
swarms during the dry season, and which are brushed off 
upon travellers by the thousand. They penetrate straight to 
the skin, and bury their heads in the flesh, causing an irrita- 
tion which drives many people to distraction. When once 
fastened it is impossible to detach them by force, without 
leaving the head in the flesh, where it gets along on its own 
account, apparently a great deal better than when encum- 
bered by the body. The only mode of removing them is 
with a ball of soft wax, which is rubbed over the body, and 
to which they adhere. Some are small, hardly visible to the 
naked eye, others are of the size of flax, and even of melon 
seeds; but " the smaller the worser." Next to the fleas they 
rank as the predominant annoyance of the country. Musqui- 
toes (sancudos), in Leon, the principal towns, and the open 



TROPICAL ANNOYANCES. 



311 



parts of tlie country generally, there are none ; but compared 
with fleas and "agarrapatas," the snakes, scorpions, "chin- 
ches," "sancudos/' and all the other abominations of tropical 
climates are mere bagatelle, and scarcely worth the men- 
tioning. 




IIBE VIEW OF IDOL FEOH SUBTIABA, NO. 1 








-•< Ij.', 








CHAPTER XII. 

AMUSEMENTS IN LEON — COCK FIGHTING — " PATIO DE LOS GALLOS" — DECLINS 

OF THE COCK PIT — GAMING — BULL BAITING NOVEL RIDING " UNA SAGRADA 

FUNCION," OR MYSTERY A POEM, AND A DRAMA " UNA COMPANIA DE FU- 

NAMBULOS," OR ROPE DANCERS — GREAT ANTICIPATIONS — A NOVEL THEATRE — 

THE PERFORMANCE " LA JOVENA CATALINA," AND THE " ECCENTRIC CLOWN, 

SIMON," — "tOEILLOS GRUESOS," OR " BIG ANKLES." "i^IESTAS," AND SAINTS' 

DAYS — THE " fiesta" OF ST. ANDREW — DANCE OF THE DEVILS — UNEARTHLY 
MUSIC— ALL-SAINTS' DAY — A CARNIVAL IN SUBTIABA — ^AN ABRUPT CON- 
CLUSION. 

The novelty of a first visit once worn off, there is little to 
interest tlie stranger in Leon. There are no " stated" amuse- 
ments, except at the cock-pit, which is open every Sunday 
afternoon. This is always crowded, but not often visited by 
the better portion of the population. It is a smooth spot of 
ground in the court-yard of the proprietor's house, fenced in 
by canes to the height of about four feet, surrounded by high 
benches, and covered with a thatched roof. In the corridors 
of the house are little stalls, in which the cocks are kept, 
and here the wife and daughters of the proprietor sell choco- 
late and dulces to the visitors. ISTo liquors are allowed upon 
the premises ; and the Grovernment, with a wise prevision, 
has always an alcalde and a file of soldiers present to pre- 
serve order. Visitors are admitted at a medio a head, and 
each one is at liberty to bring his " bird " with him. If a 
match cannot be made otherwise, the proprietor is obliged 
to accept the challenge of any of his visitors. A certain sum 
is paid to him on each cock entered, one-fourth of which goes 
into the city treasury. I visited the place but once, and 
suppose that the manner of fighting the cocks can afford but 



314 NICAEAGUA — NAEEATIVE. 

little, of wliat, I believe, is called " sport." After a match 
was raade up, ttie cocks liad long, sword-shaped gaffs, double- 
edged, sharp as needles, and in some cases three or four 
inches long, bound on their legs, with which they almost in- 
variably crippled themselves in their preliminary manoeuvers. 
The contests were consequently very brief; one or two 
passes generally finished them. The bets were never high, 
but the excitement none the less in consequence. In former 
times, the proprietor told me, he numbered all the " cabal- 
leros" of the city amongst his visitors, and then golden 
ounces were wagered instead of dirty rials, — and he drew a 
handful of the latter from his pocket with a contemptuous 
sneer, and then violently thrust them back again. He 
longed for a change ; any change would be acceptable to 
him which should bring back the caballeros and the golden 
ounces ! 

But because the more respectable people of Leon do not 
frequent the cock-pit, it is not to be inferred that they are 
wholly averse to the species of amusement practised there. 
On the contrary, in the back corridors of the houses, — and 
in none more frequently than in those of the padres, — a 
dozen fine cocks may almost always be found, or at all 
events heard, if not seen. Quiet little parties are got up of 
afternoons, cocks fought, and not unfrequently, on such occa- 
sions, if report speaks true, golden ounces find themselves 
suddenly transferred from one "bolsa" to another. 

Gaming is a passion amongst the people of all Spanish 
America. But in Nicaragua it is conducted with less pub- 
licity and perhaps to a less extent than in most of the Span- 
ish States. Nevertheless, I heard of instances during my 
residence in the country, in which thousands of dollars had 
changed hands in a single evening. The game is, I believe, 
universally, the well-known "wowfe." There are several 
bniiard-rooms in Leon, which seemed to be always full ; but 
they were not very elegant nor even clean. And in the 



JUEGO DE LOS TOEOS. 316 

Calle Eeal tliere was a licensed gaming-liouse, " Oasa de 
Juego," the only one, I believe, in the city. It was crowded 
every night by the lower classes of the population. The 
gambling, as might be inferred from the character of its fre- 
quenters, was of a petty kind, — of the " dirty rial'' order of 
our friend of the "patio de los gallos." 

Central America commenced its Eepublican career with 
very sweeping reforms, taking the United States for its 
model. Amongst the earliest acts of its government was the 
prohibition of bull-fighting. The old taste for that amuse- 
ment has not, however, died out, but has assumed a some- 
what different form. It was a festival week in the barrio of 
the Calvario, — what festival I do not remember, for there 
was no end to the fiestas and saint's days, — and we were told 
that it was to end with " uno juego de los toros," or bull 
baiting, (as near as I could understand it,) in the plaza of the 
church of that district. In fact the cura waited upon us in 
person, and invited us to attend. "We went in the afternoon, 
and found a high, strong fence built around the square, with 
a supplementary enclosure outside, leading into the larger 
one by a narrow passage closed with heavy bars. The roof 
and towers of the church were covered with people, mostly 
women, and amongst them was a band of music. All around 
the square, and clinging to the fence was a swarm of naked 
muchachos, and outside of these a great number of horse- 
men, who, seated on their steeds, could distinctly witness the 
whole performance. Amongst these we took up our posi- 
tion, the crowd giving us the most commanding place, while 
an officious alcalde whipped the boys off the fence in front, 
so as to allow an uninterrupted view. The music kept up a 
great noise, but the crowd had waited a long time, and were 
impatient, and assuming the universal prerogatives of crowds, 
cried out to the musicos "to stop their noise," and to the 
managers " to bring in the bulls." Directly the bars of the 
smaller enclosure were raised, and a horseman dashed in 



316 NICAHAGUA— ITAERATIVE. 

with a lasso attached to Ms saddle, dragging after him a 
large black bull, by the horns. He drove at Ml gallop 
around the square, and then adroitly pulled the bull, which 
was now furious, to a stout post in the centre, where by a 
few dexterous evolutions he fastened him securely, with his 
head motionless against the post. Three or four men now 
approached, and cautiously, and with much difficulty, fasten- 
ed an " albardo" or common saddle of the country on the 
back of the bull, securing it firmly by bands around the body 
of the animal. Fireworks were then fastened to its horns 
and tail, and an invitation extended to whoever might choose 
a manejar el tow. Two or three stalwart fellows, ambitious 
of distinction, volunteered, one of whom was chosen. He 
mounted very adroitly, and securing himself in his seat, the 
fireworks were lighted, and the rope cut. The bull bounded 
away amidst the explosion of bombas, the beating of drums, 
and the shouts of the multitude, foaming with rage, making 
awkward but prodigious leaps, and driving at every object 
which came in view. There were three or four horsemen in the 
ring with staves having a little red flag at one end, and a 
sharp spike at the other. These they alternately dashed be- 
fore the eyes of the bull, or drove into his flanks. When the 
fireworks commenced to explode, the toro no longer made 
at any particular object, but dashed blindly from side to side, 
throwing the rider from his seat into the dust, where, for a 
moment, I thought he would be trampled to death, but he 
scrambled up and made a rapid retreat, evidently more 
frightened than hurt, over the barricade, amidst the jeers of 
the crowd, who would have been better satisfied if he had 
come off with a broken limb or two, or had been killed out- 
right. The exertion was too much for the bull himself, and 
after chasing the horsemen around for awhile, he marched 
off, with his tongue hanging from his mouth, and covered 
with foam, into a corner of the enclosure. There was no 
more sport to be got out of him, and the crowd vociferated 



JUEGO DE LOS TOROS. 317 

'* take him away ! take him away !" So one of the horsemen 
threw a lasso over his horns and dragged him out. 

Another bull was then introduced, and the same process 
repeated. But this time the rider kept his seat to the end, 
and for his skill or good luck, got a plentiful supply of vivas 
from the boys, and of waving of scarfs from the women. It 
is impossible to describe the excitement of the multitude 
during the active parts of the exhibition ; some stamped and 
leaped about, and all shouted at the top of their lungs. 
When the bull lacked spirit, they cried " away with the old 
cow ! take away the heifer !" and stoned him from the enclo- 
sure. I soon got enough of the exhibition, and would have 
gone off, but the cura prevailed on me to stay for the final 
act, which he said would be "muy glorioso," very glorious. 
Four bulls were then let loose together, but this time the 
ofi&cer in command of the file of soldiers which was present, 
permitted no riders. The precaution was a wise one, for 
only a few months before two men had been killed, by way 
of a " grand finale." The bulls, maddened by the noise and 
fireworks flashing in their eyes and whizzing in their ears, 
attacked each other with the greatest fury, and one was 
dragged out dead from the encounter. His flesh was claimed 
for the poor of the barrio, and according to usage he was 
surrendered to them. This kind of amusement I found was 
a favorite one throughout the State. 

I subsequently witnessed an exhibition of a different kind, 
in the same place. It was announced as " Una Sagrada Fun- 
cion^'' sometimes called " /Sbmefe," a solemnity or mystery. 
It fell on a clear moonlight night, and was one of the most 
singular spectacles which can be imagined. A kind of stage 
was erected upon one side of the plaza, raised some six feet 
from the ground, with a place behind, concealed by vari- 
ously colored cloths, for the participants. In front was 
a framework of wood, supporting a great number of flaring 
tallow candles. When we reached the plaza it was crowded " 



318 NICARAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 

with, spectators. Many had. bronght their chairs with, them, 
and were seated in a semi-circle, in fi-ont of th.e stage, but 
most were standing in groups and engaged in earnest con- 
versation. All the gallants were out, and nearly all carried 
long naked Toledos under their arms, — a common practice on 
the occasion of nigh-t gatherings. The law, however, forbids 
pistols, as well as swords or knives under a certain length. 
It was a famous opportunity for all kinds of intrigue, and I 
soon began to suspect that there would be more love-making 
than anything else during the " funcion." But what I saw 
and heard bearing upon this point, is neither here nor there. 
Enough for me to say, I got a comfortable seat in the midst 
of a bevy of the fairest senoritas, and enjoyed the " funcion" 
as much as the best of them. 

In front of the stage was a kind of orchestra, made up of 
an infinitude of fiddles and cracked clarionets, which dis- 
coursed most melancholy music, for half an hour afber we 
came upon the ground. At the end of that time, it was 
announced that Senor Z., a young man who wrote poetry 
and wore his hair long, after the manner of bardlings the 
world over, would recite an appropriate poem. The Senor 
came forward, bowed low, and after telling us what he pro- 
posed to say in plain prose, commenced his poem. It related 
to Christ, dealt largely in superlatives, and complimented 
our Saviour much after the manner a love-sick youth might 
be supposed to address his mistress. The only redeeming 
point was the manner, and the clear, distinct enunciation 
with which it was given. It was listened to with attention, 
and vehemently applauded at its close. While the speaker 
was in the midst of his heroics, and the entire assemblage 
silent, I heard a heavy regular tramp, and turning, saw a de- 
tachment of troops, marching slowly through the crowd, 
their arms glancing in the moonlight. They' defiled into the 
shade, close to the wall of the church, and at the word of 
command, their muskets came down with a startling clang 



UNA SAGBADA FUNCION. 819 

upon the pavement. There tliey stood, like bronze statues 
during the whole evening. This incident will illustrate the 
condition of the country better than an essay. 

After the poem, the music struck up again, and we were 
treated to a lugubrious song by two men and three women, 
but I could not make out what it was about, Yocal music is 
certainly at a low ebb in Nicaragua ; nasal music, however, 
is flourishing. Fortunately the people make no pretensions 
to musical accomplishments, and thus criticism is disarmed. 

A kind of drama, in two acts, borrowed from the Bible, 
followed the vocal entertainments, in which a shallow, rat- 
thng character or clown was introduced, with other comic 
accessories. This was by far the best part ; the clown was a 
rare fellow, and acquitted himself well ; but the serious part 
was very serious. The characters talked in a kind of mo- 
notonous recitative, like automatons, and without a particle of 
action. An hour's endurance of this was enough for a' 
Christian, and throwing some silver in the box of a man who 
went round for the purpose of making a collection for the 
benefit of the church, I left, in company with the sefioritas, 
who inquired if similar "funcions" were common in the 
United States ? I told them yes, but that our padres con- 
signed all those who frequented them to the demonio , where- 
upon the sefioritas opened their big, black eyes, and ejaculated 
"Mira!" do teH ! 

But all these "funcions" paled before an exhibition by 
" Una Compania Bspanola de Funambulos," under the direc- 
tion of Sr. D. Pedro Serrate, which came to Leon shortly 
after our arrival. It made a great sensation amongst the 
people, whose curiosity was raised to the highest degree by 
flaming handbills, reciting the wonderful feats to be per- 
formed by "la hermosissima Jovena Catalina," "by the 
the most beautiful young Kitty, " and the equally astonishing 
extravagances of the "eccentric clown Simon," all of which 
" the enlightened and dignified public of Leon" (thus ran the 



320 NICAEAGUA— NAEEATIVE. 

invitation) were solicited to felicitate themselves by witness- 
ing, — admittance two rials, ninos (little ones) one rial, and 
ninitos i^ery little ones) a medio only. The following Sun- 
day, at three o'clock, was the time fixed for the performance. 
We were all specially invited to attend by Senor Serrate in 
person,' and of course accpted the invitation. Meantime the 
excitement became universal ; it was as good as a revolution, 
and not half as dangerous. As the time approached, men 
marched through the streets, beating the rappel at the 
corners, which was the signal for gathering. The next 
thing to be seen was a swarm of servants, carrying chairs for 
their masters and mistresses ; and then came the masters and 
mistresses themselves, in gala dress. I had not yet seen such 
an exhibition of satin slippers ! We fell into the movement, 
and duly brought up at the house where the " Funambulos" 
or rope-dancers, had established themselves. It belonged to 
one of the most respectable citizens of Leon, who had patri- 
otically permitted it to be used for this interesting occasion. 
Soldiers were stationed at the door to keep out the rabble, 
which blockaded the street, and devised all sorts of ingenious 
methods to get a ghmpse of the mysteries within. Here the 
wife of Senor Serrate received the rials with a courtesy and 
" mil gfacias " for each. The building had a large square 
court, shaded by high trees, and surrounded by a broad cor- 
ridor, raised a foot or two above the ground. Upon one 
side of the courtyard was erected a temporary, carpeted stage, 
which extended out into the area. Behind this was a gaudily 
painted curtain, concealing the penetralia within which the 
performers were to retire after their respective efforts. Alto- 
gether it was not a bad substitute for a theatre. The corri- 
dor corresponded to the dress circle, the courtyard to the pit, 
and the roof to the gallery. But I am at a loss where to 
class the occupants of the trees ! The place was alread}^ 
crowded when we arrived ; the Chief of the State, the Gene- 
ral, in fact all the principal inhabitants, comprising the 



UNA COMPANA DE FUNAMBULOS. 321 

" beauty and fashion of Leon, and full two-thirds of all the 
padres, were present. All seemed at their ease, and, includ- 
ing the the ladies, smoked cigaritos. A seat was cleared for 
me by the side of the General, and the rest of our party took 
up their positions near by. The orchestra played with terri- 
ble energy, and some hens, perched amongst a lot of boys, in 
the trees, frio-htened at this unusual scene, cackled with equal 
vigor. The ground within the court was covered with 
muchachos, and nm^ses with children, who were wrought up 
to an alarming state of impatience, and only kept within the 
bounds of propriety by the canes of the vigilant alcaldes. 

After an interval, a messenger approached the Director, 
and inquired if it was his pleasure the performance should 
begin; to which an affirmative response was given. The 
manager of the " Funambulos" then came forward and an- 
nounced the ." hermosissima Jovena Catalina," who would 
exhibit her dexterity on the tight rope. The next moment 
the Jovena advanced, and was, as the newspapers say, " rap- 
turously received." She was dressed quite after the fashion 
of similar performers at home, in skirts equally brief, and 
seemed to me quite as dexterous. But she had monstrous 
ankles, and a foot none of the smallest, and was unmercifully 
criticised, particularly by the female spectators. "Mira!" 
exclaimed a belle by my side, who lifted her tiny hands in 
astonishment, " Yalgame Dios! es una 'pateza InglesaP'' 
" See ! Good Heavens ! it is an English paw !" I glanced 
cautiously down at the little slippered feet at my side — ^they 
were really very small. My fair friend saw the movement, 
but nothing abashed, thrust them out the further, and rogue- 
ishly inquired, "How do you like them?" I professed to 
be looking for a fallen cigarito, but the dodge wouldn't 
answer. The Jovena, in a country where hardly any one 
who has his peculiarity escapes a nick-name, went afterwards 
by the unpoetical designation of " Tobillos gruesos" — "Big 
ankles !" 

21 



322 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 

The Jovena had a sister, who was beautiful, and while she 
remained in the city, the reigning toast of the young ofl&cers 
and of the gallants generally. She however did not possess 
the skill of " Tobillos gruesos,"but danced passably, and was 
very well in pantomime. The " eccentric clown, Simon," 
seemed to be the most popular feature of the exhibition ; 
and although he was not always over-delicate,' seldom failed 
to " bring down the house " by his hits. I was not long in 
discovering that the entire people had a keen appreciation of 
drollery, and what would perhaps be called "serious jok- 
ing;" and have often witnessed impromptu scenes amongst 
'the mozos by the roadside, or in the little villages, which were 
irresistibly comic, and saving time and place, might have 
been the originals from which Cervantes drew his immortal 
pictures. '. - 

After the performances on the rope, we had tumbling, in 
which two smart little boys, sons of the " director" of the 
Funambules, the clown, and a.vjoman took part. But the 
Leonesas were shocked that one of the " bello sexo" should 
descend to that, and expressed their disapprobation in such a 
manner, that she never made her appearance again in the 
character of a " volteadora." Then came a pantomime, in 
which a fussy, gouty Englishman, travelling in Spain, and 
ignorant of the language, was the principal character. His 
mishaps created great merriment, and the raggedest boy in 
the j)atio seemed glad to have an opportunity of laughing at 
John Bull ; who, as I have before said, is nowhere in the 
world more cordially hated than in Nicaragua. 

It was quite sundown when Senor Serrate came forward 
and thanked his auditors for the honor of their attendance ; 
and then the Jovena Catalina invited them all, in the choicest 
Castilian, to come again on the Sunday following. The 
" Funambulos," I may add, had a brilliant and profitable 
season of a month ; and when they left, received a testimonial 
from the citizens, who " thought it worthy of remark, that 



VIEW IN LEOJS". 



823 



in this exliibition tlie public liad not, as on other occasions, 
been driven to the hard necessity of listening to indecent 
dialogues, to the prejudice of morals and good taste, or of 
abstaining from visiting the exhibition." The " Correo del 




STREET VIEW IN LEON — CALLE DE SAN JUAN. 

Istmo" also complimented them as having " performed with 
skill and excellence," and with these recommendations they 
departed on a tour of the State. 

I have said, at the commencement of this chapter, that 
there were no stated amusements in Leon; perhaps, how- 
ever, the various fiestas and saints' days should come under 
that denomination. At any rate they were celebrated in 
anything bnt a serious manner ; they were general holidays, 



324 NICARAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 

in wliicli everybody dressed in his best, and tbe more bom- 
bas fired and bells rung, tbe more "alegre" tbe occasion, and 
tbe greater the honor to tbe saints. As a consequence, 
being situated in the vicinity of the principal churches, we 
were treated to a "Fourth of July" as often as twice a week. 
Sometimes lines of bombas were arranged, not only around 
the churches, but on their roofs, and over their towers, with 
large ones at intervals, which, when they exploded, made a 
noise like a cannon. These were set off almost invariably 
in the daytime, and produced a deafening sound, like the 
rolling discharge of musketry under a cannonade, for nearly 
half an hour, creating a dense smoke, and filling the air with 
sulphurous odors. The bells were rung the while, and every- 
body seemed delighted, and none more so than the muchachos, 
who, hke the gamins de Paris^ swarmed everywhere, and 
were the foremost in all public demonstrations. 

The fiesta of St. Andrew was celebrated with some novel 
features, and particularly commended itself to the muchachos. 
It was signalized by "un baile de los demonios," a dance 
of the devils. The devils were dressed in the most fantastic 
manner, wore masks, and sported barbed tails. One shrouded 
in black displayed a grinning death's head beneath his half- 
parted veil, and kept time to the music with a pair of verit- 
able thigh bones. The dance, I should think, had been 
borrowed from the Indians ; the music certainly was. 
It was almost unearthly, such as Cortez describes on the 
night of his retreat from Mexico, " which carried terror to 
the very souls of the Christians." It is impossible to describe 
the strange instruments. One consisted of a large calabash, 
over which was stretched the skin of some animal ; this, 
when pressed in, recoiled with a dull, sullen noise, like the 
suppressed bellow of a wild beast, and the wail of some of the 
long reeds was like that of a man in the agonies of a violent 
death. The devils went whisking through the principal 
streets, followed by a gaping crowd, and entered all the prin- 



i 



BAILE DE LOS DEMONIOS. 325 

cipal houses, wliere, after a dance in tlie courtyard, they 
expected either to receive a rial or two, or to be treated to a 
dram of agua ardiente. They favored me with an extra dis- 
play of their demoniacal abilities, — ^but were high-spirited 
devils, and declined to receive money from a stranger. 

Another class of dancers, dressed in a profusion of tinsel, 
but not aspiring to the distinction of devils, parade the streets 
on certain saints' days, visiting all the houses where the 
heads of the family bear the name of the saint, where they 
expect a gratuity or a treat, in return for an exhibition of 
their skill. As I soon lost all track of the saints, I do not 
remember which were supposed to be propitious to this kind 
of diversion. 

All-Saints' day was distinguished by a grand procession of 
all the saints, not excepting the little ebony San Benito, who, 
after airing themselves through the principal streets, vis- 
ited the various churches in succession, including the Cathe- 
dral of Subtiaba, where there were some very curious and 
complicated ceremonies. The afternoon of this day was 
celebrated as a kind of carnival amongst the Indians of that 
municipality. It is their prerogative, on that occasion, to 
pelt all visitors with oranges, and to form rings of dancers 
around them, from which exit can only be procured by the 
payment of a certain sum to the church. Almost every one 
in the city went down, including the officers of State, whose 
position gave them no immunity, — on the contrary, they got 
more than their just share of the pelting. But as the visitors 
are usually mounted, a rapid retreat is always made, when 
the storm of the golden missiles grows too severe. I made 
it a point of duty to see everything, and accordingly rode to 
Subtiaba just before sunset, where the first object I saw was 
a venerable Doctor of Medicine, bareheaded, spurring at fuH 
speed, and dodging from side to side under a shower of 
oranges discharged upon him from an ambuscade. For it 
is considered a capital joke with the muchachos, to lie in 



326 NICARAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 

wait under a ruin, or amongst tlie buslies, and let off a volley 
upon the unsuspecting horseman. When I entered the 
plaza it was occupied by groups of people, moving from side 
to side, shouting and laughing, in a faror of excitement and 
frolic, while the air was full of missiles. A few were dis- 
charged at me, but as soon as I was recognized, I was 
exempted from the usual ordeal. Suddenly I saw a move- 
ment in the direction of the cabildo, and the next moment 
was saluted with " Vivan los Estados Unidos !" " Yivanlos 
amigos de Nicaragua!" These were given with the greatest 

enthusiasm.' 

Posts were planted around the plaza, to which a double 

line of bombas was attached. These were to be let off (for 

a wonder) after dark, and my friend Simon Roque was 

urgent that I should stay to witness the explosion, and 

even offered to anticipate the hour fixed for lighting them ; 

but I had had enough of bombas for a lifetime, and rode 

home in the twilight. The streets were full of life, and the 

band stationed upon the steps of the grand Cathedral played 

^ On the day set apart for the festival of All Saints, the shops are closed 
and business suspended. About ten o'clock the procession commences 
from the Cathedral. A troop of military, marching to a slow tune, lead 
the way, and are followed by six of the finest Indian girls that can be 
procured, bearing large wax candles, and dressed in the ancient costumes 
of their tribes, accompanied by the great drum, carried on the back of an 
Indian, and beaten by two others. These are succeeded by men bearing 
on their shoulders wooden platforms, on which are placed images of saints. 
Other representations of beatified cardinals and bishops follow, escorted 
by angels with spreading wings. Then succeeds an immense statue of St. 
Peter, bearing the keys, and supported by angels on each side. Other 
images pass forward in succession, and immediately precede the Host, 
which is carried under a splendid canopy, and accompanied by the arch- 
bishop and the dignified clergy. The various orders of friars, the priests, 
and the collegiate students, in their robes, foUow ; and fresh images of 
saints and angels, with a new troop of military, bring up the rear. . . 
The setting out and return to the Cathedral are notified by frequent dis- 
charges of sky-rockets." — Dunn's Guatemala, p. 114. 



EVENING SPECULATIONS. 



327 



the national antliem, wliile the soldiers grouped aronnd the 
various " cuartels" joined in the chorus. For once, thanks 
to the darkness, I escaped the eternal presentation of arms 
and beat of drum, with which I was always received in the 
plaza, and which induced me to avoid entering it, except in 
cases of necessity, y I sat on my horse for a quarter of an j 
hour, listening to the music and the merriment, and specu- 
lated whether, after all, spite of unstable^governments, and 
dgstijute_of_aJLtkosejjCcessori es which, ac cording to our utili- 
tarian ideas, are necessary to the popular welfare, — whether 
the people of Leon were not on the whole happier and more 
contented than those of any city of equal size in our own 
country ? Here were no crowded workshops, where youth 
and age toil on, on, during the long day and by the pale gas 
light, amidst foul vapors, or in a corrupted atmosphere, that 
trade may thrive, and arrogant commerce strut in the Ex • 
change ! No thundering machines to disturb the calm of 
evening, to drown the murmurs of the night winds and the 
gentle melody of the falling dews, with their hoarse, un- / 
earthly clangor !^ 




NICARAGUAN PLOUGn. 



fll 




CHAPTEE XIII. 

A SORTIE FROM LEON — QUESALGTJAQtTE — EL ESTERO DE DONA PAULA — THE 
" MONTE DE SAN JUAN " — SUMMARY WAY OF DISPOSING OF " LADRONES " — 
"el TIGRE," JAGUAR, OR OUNCE; ITS HABITS ; HOW HUNTED — THE "lEON," 

OR PUMA — THE " COYOTE " POSULTEGA — A SPECIMEN PADRE — SOBRINAS— 

CHICHIGALPA — POISED THUNDER-STORM — THE ORACION — HACIENDA OF SAN 
ANTONIO — CHINANDEGA — A CHALLENGE — EL VIEJO — FAMILIAR FIXTURES — 
AN ENTERPRISING CITIZEN AND HIS TRAGIC FATE — A DECAYING TOWN — ^MULES 
VS. HORSES — VISIT TO THE HACIENDAS — AN INDIGO ESTATE, AND A MAYOR- 
DOMO — FINE VIEW — THE SUGAR ESTATE OF SAN GERONIMO — BACHELOR QUAR- 
TERS AND HACIENDA LIFE — ^A FRUIT GARDEN — THE BREAD FRUIT — SUGAR- 
MILLS, AND THE MANUFACTURE OF AGUARDIENTE — A SINFUL SIESTA — VISIT 

FROM THE MUNICIPALITY " UNA CANCION" — CHINANDEGA BY DAYLIGHT — 

REALEJO — PORT AND HARBOR — THE PROGRESS OF ENTERPRISE — THE PROJECTED 
NEW TOWN OF CORINTH — RETURN TO LEON. 

Eaely after our arrival in Leon, amongst many others 
of like character, we liad received an invitation from tlie 
"wealtlij and influential family of Yenerio, to spend a week 
at their establishment in Viejo Chinandega ; which, as it was 
coupled with a promise to give us an initiation into the 
mysteries of hacienda life, we had at once accepted. Up to 
this time, however (Sept. 3, 1849), I had been unable to 
leave the capital. But now my ofS.cial negotiations were 
happily terminated, and pending the action of the Legislative 
Chambers, which were called to meet on the 22d of the same 
month, I had an opportunity of seeing something more of 
the magnificent plain, in the centre of which we were re- 
siding. 

I have already said that, for obvious reasons, most of the 
travelling in Central America is done in the morning or 



330 NICAEAGUA— NARKATIVE. 

evening. It was four o'clock in the afternoon, therefore, 
"when we started for El Yiejo, twelve leagues, or thirty-six 
miles distant. This, with us, would be considered quite a 
day's journey in itself, but here it is what is called an evening 
"paseo," or ride. Our course led through Subtiaba, crossing 
the stream which flows past that pueblo at a place where art 
had cut down the steep banks, and nature woven an ever- 
green roof above — one of those dark, cool nooks in which 
the water birds love to gather, and where the Indian girls 
come to bathe — ^beyond which spread out the luxuriant 
maize fields, traversed by hedge rows like the lines on a 
chess board. The road, bordered with trees, to protect the 
traveller from the sun, wound amongst these fields for five 
or six miles, when it entered the forest again, and soon 
came to a deep ravine, with abrupt banks, seventy or eighty 
feet high, at the bottom of which flows a large clear stream, 
called, at this point, Quesalguaque. It rises near the volcano 
of Telica, and for some distance from its source it bears the 
name of Eio Telica. It flows into the harbor of Eealejo, 
and for a number of leagues from its mouth, is a tide^water 
stream, and called " El Estero de Dona Paula." 

This is the largest stream on the plain of Leon, and is pro- 
bably that to which some map-makers have given the name 
of Eio Tosta. The cart-road descends the ravine circuitously, 
and ascends in like manner ; traversing nearly a mile in 
passing from one bank to the other. The mule-road, how- 
ever, is direct, but the descent and ascent are both abrupt 
and difficult. I hardly thought either possible, and was 
really amazed to find my horse attempt them without so 
much as the touch of the spur, and quite as a matter of 
course. Emerging from the ravine, we came to some cleared 
fields, (one of which was planted with pine-apples, now 
nearly ripe, and looking wonderfully tempting in the sun), 
in the midst of which was a small collection of huts, called 
the Pueblecita de Quesalguaque. "We stopped for a moment 



AN EPISODE ON WILD BEASTS. 331 

to fill our pockets with delicious nisperos from a tree over- 
liano-ing tlie road, its treasures free to all who chose "to 
come and eat," and then diverging from the camino real, 
struck into the narrow mule-path which leads through the 
Monte de San Juan. This portion of the road has a bad 
reputation throughout the whole country ; and during the 
late troubles had been the scene of several tragic occur- 
rences. The robbers or ladrones who infested it, however, 
had been hunted by volunteers from Leon and Chinendaga, 
and shot down like wild beasts ; a summary, but most effectual 
way of preventing further depredations. At one point we 
passed a number of newly-erected crosses, marking the place 
where murder had been done. But all was still and peace- 
fal now, and we saw nothing to startle us except a Tigre^ 
which leaped across the path a few paces in advance, disap- 
pearing instantaneously in the forest. 

What is here called the Tigre or Tiger, is the true Jaguar^ or 
Ounce ; and the animal which is called the Lion is the mane- 
less Mexican Lion, or Puma. Ounces are abundant through- 
out the entire country, and often commit serious depreda- 
tions upon the cattle of the haciendas. They are of a tawny 
color, the body beautifully variegated with irregular oblong 
black spots, breast and belly whitish. They grow to the 
length of four or five feet, are powerfully built, with massive 
jaws, and possess a strength and activity superior to any of 
the feline race of equal size. They unhesitatingly attack all 
animals, of whatever proportions, which are not fully capable 
of defending themselves ; and in riding through the woods I 
have several times seen fall grown heifers, which they had 
not only killed, but dragged to considerable distances, — in 
one instance not less than a hundred yards. 

The Tigre, however, sometimes meets his match in a 
sturdy bull or spirited cow, and is compelled to retreat. The 
vaqueros of the haciendas, who are fluent on the subject of 
tigers, and often able to show ghastly scars in confirmation 



332 NICABAaUA— NAREATIVE. 

of their stories of adventures, relate instances in wliicli tlie 
tiger lias been killed outright in his encounters with the 
toros. A bull of venerable aspect, but exceedingly mild 
demeanor, was pointed out to me in Honduras, which was 
the hero of many battles, successful in all, and in three in- 
stances killing his adversary. I quite respected this pro- 
tector of his herd, and thought he should at least receive the 
title of the " Great Defender." The herdsmen concur in say- 
ing that the tiger is generally too cunning to attack the cat- 
tle, except singly, when separated from each other, as they 
all make common cause against him when he ventures 
amongst the herd. The ounce seldom attacks man, unless 
pressed by hunger, or by the hunters. This is a fortunate 
circumstance ; for otherwise travelling in Central America, 
where, in the secluded parts of the country, hardly a day 
passes without seeing one or two of them, would be attended 
with the greatest danger. In some localities, however, the 
ounce is represented to be more ferocious than in others, and 
so bold as to slip into the villages in broad daylight, in search 
of his prey. There are many men distinguished for success 
in hunting this animal, who arrogate to themselves the title 
of tigreros. They use no arms, except a long and stout 
spear or lance, and their machetes. Their first object, with' 
the aid of dogs, is to drive the tiger into a tree, or bring him 
to bay. When this is done, the tigrero wraps his poncho 
around his left arm, and approaches the fierce and excited 
animal, with his lance so fixed as to be able to receive him 
on its point when he shall make his spring. This requires 
great coolness and firmness, for everything depends upon the 
hunter planting his spear full in the animal's breast. If this 
be not done, a terrible fight ensues, from which the strongest 
and bravest man is fortunate if he escapes with life. The 
genuine tigrero scorns to use firearms, — " no tiene valor, 
nada," they are of no use, none ! Some of these men num- 
ber their victories by scores, and are considered invincible. 



THE PUMA AND COYOTE. 333 

The tigre negro^ or black ounce, is erroneously regarded 
by tlie natives as a distinct species ; and, perhaps from his 
more forbidding appearance, is supposed to be stronger and 
fiercer. They are undoubtedly a little larger in size than 
the other variety. In Nicaragua they are rarely seen, but 
are quite abundant, it is said, in the mountainous districts 
of Honduras. 

The Lion, or Puma, notwithstanding his name, has fewer 
of the traditional magnanimous traits of the lion proper 
than the tigre. He is altogether a sneaking fellow, and at- 
tacks cattle only when he finds them wounded, entangled in 
thickets, or embarrassed in swamps, where he has everything 
to his own advantage. He flies from man, but will prowl 
stealthily after him in the evening, like the wolf. He is 
consequently approached with difficulty, and rarely killed. 
His color is a pale, brownish red, inclining to black on the 
back, but light under the belly. In shape he is slenderer 
than the ounce, his legs and tail longer, and his claws and 
head slighter. " A full grown tiger," said an old hunter to 
me, " is a match for half a dozen of the cowards." The 
weary traveller, sleeping in the forest, has more to dread 
from the puma than any other wild animal. Besides the 
ounce and the puma, there are several varieties of tiger, or 
mountain cats, which commit depredations on the fowls and 
smaller domestic animals of the ranchos, but from whom 
man has nothing to fear. 

The " coyote," wild dog, or as he is sometimes called, 
wolf, is common in some parts of Central America. I never 
saw any of them, but they are said to differ as widely from 
the true wolf as from the common dog. Some have conjee 
tured that they are descended from the bloodhounds which 
were used by the early Spaniards in hunting down the na- 
tives. But all attempts to reclaim them, although carried on 
during two or three generations, have failed. Like wolves, 
they generally hunt in packs, making no noise beyond a low 



334 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 

howl, and follow their prey with a perseverance which is 
almost always successful in the end. It is said that, al- 
though individually arrant cowards, they will collectively 
attack the tiger himself, drive him into a tree, and besiege 
him for many days, until exhausted, in attempting to escape, 
he falls a victim to the number of his assailants. The natives 
have a singular notion, however, that the coyotes never 
beleaguer the tigre unless he has committed some outrage on 
the fraternity, robbed them of their prey, or made a meal of 
some straggler. 

To return from this digression. Two leagues beyond 
Quesalguaque, the intervening country level and magnifi- 
cently wooded, and the road broad and smooth, is the 
Pueblo of Posultega, an unpretending town of some five or 
six hundred inhabitants, and distinguished for nothing ex- 
cept an ancient church, more remarkable for its dilapidation 
than its architecture. The cura, who had called on me in 
Leon a few days before, was swinging in his hammock, be- 
tween a couple of orange trees in front of his house ; he 
leaped up as we approached, stopped me in the open street, 
and gave me an embrace " as was an embrace," and from 
my elevated position on my horse, quite too near the belt to 
be comfortable. He insisted on our stopping for the rest of 
the afternoon and for the night at his poor house, (every 
house in Central America is called "mt pobre casa^^ by its 
owner), which I declined doing with a prodigious affectation 
of regret, ■ that became real a moment after, when I discov- 
ered the padre's sobrina or niece, a, fair, full-breasted girl, 
peeping slyly out between the bars of the window. Of 
course it is not reputable for padres to have females in their 
establishments, except near relatives, — aunts for housekeep- 
ers, and nieces for companions ! The aunts, I observed, 

were always old, but the nieces almost invariably young and 
pretty, as nieces are bound to be. 

The country, from Posultega to Chichigalpa, a consider- 



CHICHIGALPA. 335 

able town, two leagues further on, preserves its flat surface, 
the monotony but slightly relieved by the occasional narrow 
and shallow channels which carry off the superabundant 
water of the rainy season. Chichigalpa, formerly a very 
large Indian town, still numbers from three to five thousand 
inhabitants ; it is regularly laid out, and has a neat and 
attractive appearance. It was just sunset when we entered 
its streets. A heavy thunder-storm was piling up its black 
volumes behind the volcanoes in the east, and the calm and 
silence which precede the tempest rested upon the plain ; 
the winds were still, and the leaves hung motionless on the 
trees. The adult inhabitants seemed to sympathize with the 
scene, and sat silently in the open doorways ; but the chil- 
dren were as playful and noisy as ever, their voices rendered 
doubly distinct, and almost unnatural in the pervading quiet. 
Suddenly the bell of the oracion struck ; the careless voices 
of the children were instantaneously hushed, and we mechan- 
ically stopped our horses, and uncovered our heads. A low 
murmur of prayer floated forth on the undulating waves oi 
sound which seemed to subside in circles around us ; — again 
the bell struck, again, and then, when the pulses had almost 
ceased to beat, that the straining ear might catch the expiring 
vibrations, rolled in the mufSed sound of the distant thunder. 
It came down from the mountains with the majesty of an 
ocean poured along their trembling sides ! 

The oracion, which never fails to impress the most careless 
traveller with a feeling of reverential awe, was but one ele- 
ment in this grand combination of the solemn and the sub- 
lime. 

"We rode- through Chichigalpa without stopping, and 
pressed rapidly forward, with the design of reaching the es- 
tate of San Antonio, belonging to the family of my com- 
panion, before the storm should overtake us. Darkness, 
however, closed' speedily around our path, and in ten min- 
utes we were unable to discover our position, except as it 



336 NICAEAGUA — UTAEEATIVE. 

was revealed to us by tlie lightning, wMcli occasionally 
poured in lurid, blinding sheets, from tbe summits of the vol- 
canoes, wbere tbe storm seemed to pause as if to concentrate 
its gloomy squadrons, before moving down upon tbe silent 
plain, and forth upon the dark Pacific. Fortunately the 
road was wide, and permitted us to ride rapidly, without any 
great danger from the projecting branches. "We reached San 
Antonio, eight miles from Chichigalpa, in an hour. 

The resident on the estate was an uncle of my companion, 
an amiable and gentlemanly person, who apologized for not 
coming to the door to receive us. His apology was a valid 
one. He had led the hunt after the ladrones who had in- 
fested the road to Leon, and had received a ball in his hip, 
in the final encounter with them. We were at once offered a 
cup of chocolate, which we accepted, in deference not less to 
our own tastes than to a sensible practice of the country, 
which is always to take whatever is tendered to you. Thus 
a caballero is offered a cigar ; he at once accepts it with a 
bow, or " mil gracias," a thousand thanks, and if he does not 
care to smoke, puts it in his pocket. This will occur during 
the same sitting as often as the cigars are passed. With 
chocolate the case is a little different ; it is not easily put in 
one's pocket, and is therefore otherwise disposed of The 
house at San Antonio, I observed as soon as I entered it, 
was superior to any of the hacienda residences which had 
yet fallen under my notice. It was not only well construct- 
ed, but • conveniently arranged, and painted in the interior. 
It had been built by a Mr. Bridge, an Englishman, who had 
established here one of the finest sugar plantations in the 
country. In common with most of the English residents, he 
had married a woman of the country, and what with trade, 
his hacienda, and an English vessel-of-war, always conve- 
niently at hand to enforce any claim which he and his Eng- 
lish brethren might find it profitable to set up against the 
government, had contrived to amass a considerable fortune. 



CHINANDEGA. 337 

Upon his deatli, however, the estate had been sold to its 
present proprietors, and although it had fallen somewhat out 
of repair, it still showed what might be accomplished in this 
favored land, with a very moderate share of enterprise and 
industry. 

The wind had sprung up, and carried the impending storm 
off to the southward ; so, after waiting half an hour at San 
Antonio, we again mounted and pursued our course. By 
the dim, reviving light, I could make out that we were now 
in an open and highly cultivated country, sprinkled over 
with houses. Half an hour more brought us to the suburbs 
of Chinandega, probably the most flourishing town in the 
State, and the only one, I believe, which has increased in 
population since the independence. The commerce of Eeal- 
ejo is conducted through it ; here nearly all the merchants 
reside ; and the inhabitants, some fifteen or sixteen thousand 
in number, are conceded to be the most industrious and 
thriving of any in the Republic. 

It was too dark to distinguish anything beyond long, 
broad avenues, bordered with gardens, each -one having a 
hut in the centre. The streets really seemed endless, and we 
passed square on square, for full a mile and a half, before we 
reached the paved streets surrounding the plazas, where the 
adobe and tile-roofed houses are built, and where the 
wealth and trade is concentrated. The people were still sit- 
ting at their doors and windows, in luxurious enjoyment of 
the cool breeze which the passing storm had evoked some- 
where beyond the mountains. We would have ridden di- 
rectly through the plaza, but were stopped by the sudden 
ring of a musket on the pavement, and a fierce order to halt 
and give the countersign. "We did so, and then supposed we 
might go on. But the sentinel demanded that we should 
advance singly, and called to the officer of the guard. Find- 
ing that we should probably be detained for an indefinite 
period, I whispered to my companion to fall back, and avoid 

22 



338 NICAEAGUA — NAREATIVE. 

the plaza by making a circuit around it. He did so, mutter- 
ing soniething about tlae stupid military, whicli might have 
cost him dear had it been overheard. A long detour brought 
us to the other side of the town, which is bounded by a con- 
siderable stream, flowing through a deep hollow. The path 
to the water was broad, and artificially graded, so, notwith- 
standing the darkness, we passed without difficulty. "We 
were now in the plain road to El Yiejo, and a brisk ride 
through the intermediate fields and the silent suburbs, 
brought us to a large house, fronting on the plaza. We 
stopped before a high and imposing portal, the massive gates 
of which parted in answer to the well known voice of my 
companion. In another instant we were beneath the trees 
in the courtyard, in the full blaze of hospitable lights, stream- 
ing through the open doors of the gT3nd sala, where our 
friends were awaiting our arrival. 

Upon entering the house, I was surprised to find myself 
surrounded by nearly all the well-known furniture of a parlor 
in New York. Here were sofas and rocking-chairs, and 
mirrors and clocks, of familiar fashion, holding something 
more than their own against hammocks and hide-bottomed 
sillas. A portrait of Washington and a fac-simile of the De- 
claration of Independence were suspended against the walls, 
and a bust of Shakspeare filled a vacant place on a little shelf 
in a distant corner. A clear blue eye, a rosy cheek, and the 
pleasant sound of our native tongue were alone needed to 
complete an illusion, in which the full form, the classic pro- 
file, pale complexion, large and liquid eyes, the stately grace, 
and low but cordial welcome of the mistress of the mansion, 
did not permit me to indulge. 

I have said that the family whose hospitable courtesies I 
was now enjoying, was one of the wealthiest, and socially 
one of the most influential in the country. Yet its history 
for the past fifteen or twenty years is unfortunately too 
truthful an illustration of what the condition of the country 



A TRAGIC STORY. 339 

has been during that disastrous period. Don Gregorio Ye- 
nerio, the late head of the family, was one of the few men 
which Central America has afforded, possessing enterprise, 
a liberal and enlightened spirit, and that sound philosophy 
which consists in a practical disposition to make the best of 
existing circumstances. Overcoming most of the narrow 
prejudices which had grown up under the rigorous colonial 
system of Spain, and which fettered the mass of the people 
for a long time after the independence, he introduced im- 
provements in agriculture, new machinery in the manufac- 
ture of sugar, and the preparation of cotton and indigo for 
foreign markets, and with a true patriotism and public spirit 
sought to direct the general attention to useful occupations 
and the development of the natural resources of the country, 
as the best means of insuring civil order and stability in 
government. His labors were, for a time, eminently success- 
ful, and he gave an impulse to industry and trade in the 
section of the state in which he resided, which has since 
doubled its wealth and influence. But envious and evil dis- 
posed persons were not wanting to misrepresent his motives, 
and to awaken distrust of the objects which he aimed to 
accompHsh. The hostility of the ignorant masses was ex- 
cited against him and his family ; his machinery, it was said, 
would depreciate wages, and his products destroy the market 
for the productions of smaller proprietors. The ultimate 
result may be anticipated. The robber chieftain, Somoza, 
whose violent end I have already recounted, at the head of 
a band of assassins and robbers, entered his house at night, 
dragged him from his bed, and butchered him in cold blood, 
in the presence of his entire family, in the very room where 
I was now seated. Yet, up to the. time of my arrival, the 
murderer had escaped apprehension and defied justice. 

El Yiejo Chinandega, Old Chinandega, or as it is briefly 
called El Yiejo, is one of the most ancient towns in Nicara- 
gua. It is beautifully situated upon a stream which flows 



340 NICAEAGUA — NAEEATIVE. 

througli its centre, and contains between five and six tliousand 
inhabitants. Formerly it was tlie principal town, next to 
Leon, in this department, and was tlie seat of th.e trade carried 
on through the port of Realejo. But the new town is located 
more favorably for commerce, and as that has increased in 
importance, El Yiejo has declined. During the supremacy of 
the bucaneers in the South Sea, El Yiejo was several times 
attacked, and once or twice burned. It has a large church, 
of high antiquity, situated upon an artificial terrace in the 
midst of a plaza. A fantastic wall runs along the edge of 
the terrace, and above each flight of steps, by which it is 
ascended, are lofty arches of fine proportions, which lend a 
very singular effect to the whole structure. Architecturally, 
El Yiejo affords no other object of interest. 

After breakfast, on the morning following our arrival, we 
started on a visit to the haciendas, or plantations, belonging 
to the family. I had a strong prejudice against mules, but 
my host quietly insisted that I should ride his macho^ a sleek- 
looking, clean-limbed animal, upon which my saddle had 
already been placed. I complied without, at the moment, 
fully comprehending the reason of the request. But no 
sooner had we struck into the main road, than I found that, 
in respect of speed and of ease to the rider, no horse was 
comparable to the splendid animal upon which I was mount- 
ed. Without an apparent effort, and quite as a matter of 
course, he distanced all the horses of the party, and at what 
appeared to be his ordinary pace, kept them at a sharp gal- 
lop. " That macho," said my host, " cost me three hundred 
dollars ; and I have ridden him sixty miles in six consecutive 
hours 1" When I add that ordinary mules here cost only 
about twenty dollars, and that this one was valued at three 
hundred and fifty, the difierence between them is brought to 
some standard of calculation. The pace is artificial ; and 
when what is called " a good education" is joined to good 
proportions, soundness of limb, and high spirit, (for they 



ABANDONED ESTATES. 341 

differ ■widely in this respect,) mules are esteemed infinitely 
kigher than horses. Their endurance is incredible, and they 
have the ability to take care of themselves where a horse 
would starve. 

At the distance of a league from the town, we turned into 
a beautiful shaded lane, or avenue, running through the 
broad estates which we had come to visit. The fields, with 
the exception of one or two which were planted with maize, 
were overgrown with weeds. I inquired the cause, and was 
told that these were indigo grounds, the cultivation of which 
had been suspended from the impossibility of securing per- 
manent laborers ; for the processes in manufacturing the 
indigo are so delicate, that any deficiency in attention ruins 
the entire crop. When affairs became fully settled, it was 
intended to resume the cultivation of this valuable product ; 
but until then, the ground, dams, vats, and machinery were 
valueless property. In the centre of this portion of the es- 
tate, on an eminence near an artificial pond covered with 
water plants, and constructed for supplying the indigo works, 
was the house of the superintendent, — a large two-story edi- 
fice, with a double corridor on every side, and surrounded 
by a little forest of magnificent trees, relieved by towering 
palms and the green columns of the cactus. The mayor- 
domo, a venerable old man with his head bound in a varie- 
gated handkerchief, white shirt and breeches, and red shoes, 
himself one of the fixtures of the estate, received each of us 
with a hearty embrace, and then led us up a flight of broad 
stone steps, to the upper corridor. Here were the old man's 
daughters, three pretty, blushing girls, who were introduced 
individually as Paula, Manuelita, and Concepcion. " Their 
mother is a saint," said he, as he gazed on them with an ex- 
pression of pride; "but happier times are coming for our 
poor country, and they will live to see them, I am sure !" 
and he tottered off, to procure " algo fresco." 

From the corridor we enjoyed a magnificent view of field 



342 NICARAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 

and forest, stretcliing away in billows of verdure to the base 
of the volcano of El Yiejo, lifting its purple summit to mid- 
beaven, beyond and over all. I ventured to imagine tbe 
intervening plain in tbe bands of an enterprising and vigor- 
ous people, dotted over witb villages, and loaded down witb 
tbe ricbest products of all-bountiful ISTature, and queried if 
tbis generation migbt not witness tbe cbange. Let tbe bab- 
bler about impossibilities, in tbis first decade of tbe last balf 
of tbe nineteentb century, turn bis eyes to tbe sbores of tbe 
Bay of San Francisco, be silent, and mark tbe reality ! 

From tbe indigo estate, bearing tbe name of some favorite 
saint, wbicb I bave forgotten, we rode a mile or two furtber, 
to tbe sugar plantation of San Greronimo. Tbe ground 
wbicb it occupies is perfectly level, and by means of ditcbes, 
designed particularly for purposes of irrigation, is laid out 
in squares, or manzanas. Tbe cane on some of tbese squares 
bad been newly planted, and on otbers lately cut, wbile 
upon otbers it was now in perfection, and ready for use. 
Tbe mills are here kept running steadily tbe year round, and 
by tbe time tbe cutters bave gone tbrougb all tbe fields, those 
which were first cleared are ready for the knife a second 
time. Under favorable circumstances, three crops can be 
taken yearly ; and tbe ground does not require to be re- 
planted oftener than once in ten or fourteen years. 

A two -story bouse, newer and better built than that wbicb 
I bave already described, stood upon one side of the cane- 
fields, on tbe banks of a stream, and in the vicinity of the 
mills. It was approached by a broad avenue, kept scrupu- 
lously clean, and its white walls and red roof stood out 
against a dense background of trees, now in tbe perfection 
of their foliage, and loaded witb fruit. The lower story was 
occupied by the mayor-domo and his family, and tbe upper 
by a bachelor brother of our host, whom we found in bis 
shirt sleeves, swinging in a hammock suspended in tbe cor- 
ridor on the shaded side of the building, and engaged in 



HACIENDA LIFE. 343 

reading a translation of Sue's Mysteries of Paris ! He rose 
hastily, uttered some indistinct apologies, and led us into the 
body of the building, where in an instant we were surrounded 
by a playful troop of blooded dogs, which our friend, who 
was a good deal of a Nimrod, had expressly imported from 
England and the United States. In one corner of the room 
stood an elegant rifle, with a brace of pistols, a sword, and a 
variety of bits and spurs grouped around it. In another 
corner was a guitar and a saddle, and on the table, in that 
delightful confusion seen only in bachelor establishments, a 
flute, some music, and books, and an infinity of cigars. An 
engraved portrait of Lola Montez was the only decoration 
on the walls, unless the skin of a monstrous tigre, stretched 
at one end of the apartment, might be called a decoration. 

From the corridor, the eye traversed broad fields of cane, 
framed in by a dense forest, the view opening only to- 
wards the east, where the perspective of fields terminated, in 
the distance, with the tiled roof of the house belonging to 
the indigo estate, but half seen amidst the surrounding trees. 
A creaking cart came up the broad avenue towards us, 
loaded with stalks of the cana^ which were piled in heaps in 
front of the mills situated in the valley of the stream, and 
partially concealed by the vapors rising lazily from the boil- 
ing kettles in which the juice was evaporated. The mozos 
engaged in the various processes moved about with a slow 
and careless air, in perfect harmony with the general quiet 
of the scenery, and in unison with the monotonous clatter of 
the mill, which seemed to be half asleep, and just about to 
stop altogether, I sat down in a vacant hammock, and for 
the first time fully comprehended the charms of hacienda 
life, — ^that aimless, dreamy existence, undisturbed by ambi- 
tion or envy, and separated from the struggle of conflicting 
interests. Our bachelor friend vegetated here month after 
month, without a wish ungratified, making the most of the 
present, and careless of the future. Occasionally, he said, 



344 NICARAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 

his slumbering energies would be roused for a moment, but 
lacking legitimate objects to occupy them, soon subsided 
again, and the stream of life flowed on as before. A turn 
with his dogs in the morning, a stroll of supervision through 
the mills, chocolate, a book, the hammock, and the siesta, — 
these, with now and then a ride to the village, or on extra- 
ordinary occasions a rapid descent of a single day on Leon, 
made up the sum of life. 

Connected with this estate was a "huerta de las fruitas," 
a fruit garden, upon which the late Don Gregorio had ex- 
pended a great deal of money and care. It covered several 
acres of ground, — a wilderness of oranges and lemons, white 
and yellow pine apples, melons, mamays, maranons, jocotes, 
limes, citrons, guavas, tamarinds, — ^in short all the innume- 
rable varieties of tropical fruits and flowers, traversed by 
broad walks, here a vista terminating in a bower, and there 
ending with a glimpse of the deep pools of the neighboring 
stream; the whole surrounded by an evergreen hedge of 
cactuses, in full bloom, and loading the air with fragrance. 
Here was the odorous sweet lemon, and in the centre of the 
garden a group of bread-fruit trees, remarkable for their 
broad, deep green leaves, amongst which might be discerned 
the nuts, looking for all the world like the heads of young 
darkies. These trees had been introduced by Don Gregorio 
from the Sandwich Islands, and flourished quite as luxuri- 
antly as in their native soil. But the fruit did not " take" 
with the Nicaraguenses, who preferred the tortilla and the 
plantain ; the tree is therefore propagated solely from mo- 
tives of curiosity. 

From the garden we went to the mills. The machinery in 
use had all been imported from England and the United 
States, via Cape Horn. There was first the crushing or 
grinding mill, from which a copper conductor carried the 
juice through a strainer into a vat, communicating by means 
of tubes with the coppers or cauldrons. From these, when 



MANUFACTUKE OF SUGAE. 345 

the reduction and clarification were sufficiently far advanced, 
the liquid was drawn off into other coppers, whence the scum 
was constantly removed, and thrown into a large trough, to 
be used in the distillation of aguardiente. When reduced 
to a certain strength or thickness, the sugar was transferred 
to the coolers and strainers, where the graining took place, 
and the molasses was separated. A large portion of the 
sugar is not subjected to this process, but while in its crude 
state, is laded into moulds of a certain size, forming what is 
called chancaca^ sold for ordinary consumption amongst the 
poorer classes, at a quartillo (three cents) the cake, equiva- 
lent to about one cent and a half the pound. The finer 
qualities of sugar produced on this estate are nearly as white 
and hard as the refined sugars of commerce. Connected with 
these works is a complete apparatus for distilling aguar- 
diente^ capable of an indefinite production of that article of 
consumption. But this is a government estanco, or monopo- 
ly, and it cannot be manufactured on private account. The 
fact that the late Don Gregorio had obtained the contract for 
supplying the government, was one of the causes of hostihty 
to him amongst the smaller proprietors, whose rude but 
costly modes of distillation were entirely supplanted by the 
introduction of his improved machinery. This hostility had 
not yet died out, and the family meditated throwing up the 
contract, and discontinuing the manufacture altogether, as 
the easiest mode of relieving themselves from the popular 
odium which it excited. We can hardly understand how 
such prejudices should exist, but it is nevertheless a fact that, 
at the first, every improvement in the useful arts, all social 
progress, and every advance in government, philosophy, and 
religion, have the world over been met and opposed in pre- 
cisely the same spirit, and from precisely the same motives. 

Upon our return to the house, we found a table spread 
with the rarest collection of tropical fruits and luxuries 
which I had yet seen, and which might have excited the 



346 NICAEAGUA — ^NAERATIVE. 

envy of a king. We liad "frescas" compounded from tlie 
maranon, the orange, and the juice of the cocoanut, slightly- 
dashed with aguardiente, the coolest and most refreshing 
imaginable ; and melons — such melons ! And when we came 
to ]ie down in our respective hammocks, beneath the shaded 
corridor, for the afternoon siesta, it was unanimously voted 
that, with our present limited information on the subject of 
Paradise, we should be quite willing to accept perpetual 
youth and hacienda life "c?ot(;n," rather than incur the risk 
of attaining the former ! " Opinions may differ about the 
propriety of confessing it," said W., " but really," and he 
took a long and lazy pull at his cigar, " I think this is quite 
good enough for a miserable sinner like myself ! " 

The smoke wreathed slowly up from each hammock, the 
mill clattered drowsily, and we slept until the cool evening 
wind, gathering strength as the sun declined, began to 
rustle amongst the orange trees which grew beside the cor- 
ridor, and the creaking carts, which had stood idle during 
the heat of the day, again began to move in the direction of 
the cane fields. A hacienda dinner, and a cheery ride 
townward, in the twilight, completed the day ; and we went 
to bed that night, with a most satisfactory conception of ha- 
cienda life, 

I had flattered myself that my visit to El Viejo was un- 
known beyond the family with which we were stopping ; I 
had, in fact, stipulated with our host, that our incognito 
should be rigidly preserved. He was, therefore, a good deal 
embarrassed, and I was not a little annoyed, when he an 
nounced the next morning at breakfast, that the municipality 
of the town had been there, before I was up, to say that they 
should do themselves the honor to pay their respects to "El 
Ministro" in form, at the early hour of ten o'clock. There 
was now no alternative but to submit to the arrangement, 
and make the best of what we would gladly have prevented. 
Punctual to the moment, when the clock struck the appoint- 



ANOTHER OBSEQUIO. 84T 

ed hour, a band of musicos, preceded by half a dozen fellows 
firing bombas, emerged from the cabildo, on the opposite 
side of the square, in the direction of our house. They were 
followed by the municipal and spiritual fathers of the town, 
the former with their red sashes and gold-headed canes, and 
the latter in their black robes and broad-brimmed hats, after 
whom came a piingled mass of men, women, and children. 
The musicos played with an energy befitting the occasion, 
and the men with the bombas managed to keep up an inces- 
sant discharge. The musicos, the municipality, and the 
priests, with a very select few of the prominent citizens, 
alone entered the sala. The populace had to content them- 
selves with gazing in turns through the open windows and 
doors. Amongst the ecclesiastics was the Dean Eemijo 
Salazar, one of the most imposing men in appearance, and 
most accomphshed in manner and in education, of any in 
the country, and withal an orator and a philanthropist, and 
the venerable Padre Jose Maria Guerrero, distinguished 
throughout the State for his exemplary piety, and noted as a 
musician and a composer of music. I experienced a real 
satisfaction in taking these men by the hand, and my subse- 
quent acquaintance with them only served to deepen my 
respect and esteem. After the exchange of salutations, and 
a very neat welcome from the first alcalde, we were told that 
the musicos were prepared with a " Cancion," composed ex- 
pressly for this occasion, which they begged permission to 
sing. The permission, accompanied with a glass of ardiente 
by way of clearing their respective whistles, was graciously 
accorded. It was but seven stanzas in length, but each 
stanza was seven times repeated, with a constantly increasing 
nasal intonation, until the sweat rolled down the faces of 
singers and players,' — for each musico both sang and played. 
The infliction was severe, and would have been unendurable, 
had it not been for the amusing contortions of features, and 
strong muscular exercises of the performers, which far sur- 



348 NICAEAGUA — ^NAEEATIVE. 

passed the most extravagant pantomime ever brougM on tlie 
stage. A copy of tlie "Cancion" was handed. to me at the 
conclusion of the performance, of which the title and a couple 
of stanzas will sufi&ce to satisfy any curiosity which the 
reader may entertain in respect to it. I could not learn who 
was the author; for, with the modesty of true genius, he 
carefully concealed his name. 

"OANCION. 

"Con que la Municipalidad de la Villa bel Viejo, en union de los 
Senoees Peesbiteeios Don Eemijio Salazae, Dean de la Santa Tglecia 
Oathedeal, t De. Don Jose Maria Gueereeo, t Licenciado D. Evaeisto 

EOCHA, FELICITAEON AL SeNOE MiNISTEO PlENOPOTENCAEIO DE LOS EsTADOS 
UnIDOS DEL NOETE, EN SU LEGADA A ESTA ViLLA, EL 5 A SeTIEMBEE, DE 

1849. 

" Digno hijo de Washington, 
Seals bien venido, 
Illustre bien hechor 
De nuestro Istmo, 

No hay recompensa 
Que eguale al beneficio, 
De Vuestra Empresa ! 

"Fue la America libre, 
Hoy in su Centre, 
Con Vos. se regocije 
Hasta el estremo, 
Es un deber 

Pues que por Vos. adquiere 
Un nuevo ser. 

" Dicboso aquel momento 
Bello, y deseado, 
En que Vuestra Excelencia 
Fue proclamado, 
Para operar 

La obra grande que el mundo 
Debe admirar." 

We remained but two days at El Yiejo, and on the morn- 
ing of the third started on our return to Leon. Chinandega, 



CHINANDEGA AGAIN". 



349 



by dayliglit, more tlian confirmed the favorable opinion 
which I had. formed of it from descriptions and starlight 
glimpses. It covers a very large space of ground, and is 
regularly laid out in " cuadras" or squares, which are again 
subdivided into what can best be described as gardens, each 




VIEW OF CHINANDEGA FROM THE WEST. 



one embowering a dwelling of some kind, generally built of 
canes and thatched, but often of adobes and neatly roofed 
with tiles. The central, or what may be called the business 
part of the town in the vicinity of the grand plaza, is com- 
pact, and as well built as any part of Leon or Grranada. Yet 
it is scarcely twenty years since there was but a single tile- 
roofed house in the town. Altogether, Chinandega has an 
air of thrift and enterprise which I have seen nowhere else 
in Central America ; and as the trade now springing up on 



350 NICAEAGUA — ^NAERATIVE. 

tte Pacific coast increases, its importance "will continue to 
augment. The country around it is flat, yet the soil is dry, 
and altlLOugh the heat during the day is considerable, yet 
here, as in Bl Viejo, the evenings and nights are cool and 
pleasant. This is perhaps due to its position in respect both 
to the sea and the great volcano of El Viejo, which stands 
guard at this extremity of the plain of Leon. ] 

Eealejo is about two leagues distant from Chinandega. It 
is a small town, situated upon a tide-water stream, full five 
miles from the harbor proper, and can only be reached by 
the ordinary bongos or lighters, at high water. The position 
is low, and is reputed unhealthy. The customs' establish- 
ment is located there, but the merchants who conduct their 
trade through the port have their stores in Chinandega and 
Leon. It is said that the town was originally built nearer 
the harbor, and that the present site was afterwards adopted 
in consequence of the frequent attacks of the pirates, who, as 
I have already observed, infested this coast. The popula- 
tion of Eealejo is about twelve hundred, who find employ- 
ment in loading and unloading vessels, and supplying them 
with fruits and provisions. Eecently the place has derived 
a great impulse from the Californian trade ; docks and ware- 
houses have been built, depots for coal established, and seve- 
ral of the American steamers now touch there regularly for 
supplies ; the station, in this respect, being favorably situated 
intermediately between Panama and Acapulco. It seems 
likely, however, that the old town will be abandoned and a 
new one built up, immediately on the harbor, opposite the 
anchorage, where there is a fine position, adapted to all 
the wants of commerce. A road has, in fact, lately been 
opened to the mouth of the Estero Dona Paula, by a com- 
pany of native merchants, and the site of the ^ew town has 
already been laid out under direction of the government. It 
is to bear the classical name of ." Corinth," and will not be 
distant more than eighteen or twenty miles from Leon, to 




PORT OF EEALEJO. 











CHUECH AND PLAZA, OHINANDEGA. 



THE PORT OF EEALEJO. 353 

whicli place it is supposed it will sustain tlie same relation 
that Kealejo lias hitherto done to Chinandega. The official 
paper, the "Correo del Istmo," of the 30th of January last, 
advertises four hundred and twenty of the lots in " Corinth," 
varying from 1000 to 1500 square yards, and the minimum 
prices at which they are to be sold, i. e. from $25 to $37. 
There seems to be little doubt that this enterprise will prove 
successful, and that the Port of Eealejo will become second 
in importance to no other on the entire Pacific coast from 
Panama northward.^ 

' Sir Edward Belclier, R. E"., wlio surveyed this harbor in 1838, says : 
" The island of Cardon, at the mouth of the harbor of Realejo, is situated 
in 12° 28' N., and 87° 12' W. It has two entrances, both of which are 
safe, under proper precautions, in all weathers. Grood and safe anchorage 
extends for several miles. The rise and fall of the tide is eleven feet, fuU 
and change 3h. 6m. Docks or slips, therefore, may easily be constructed, 
and timber is readily to be procured of any dimensions ; wood, water, 
and immediate necessaries are plentiful and cheap. — " Voyage round the 
World," vol. ii. p. 307. 

"I may confidently say," observes Dunlap, "that Eealejo is as good a 
port as any in the known world. I have seen Portsmouth, Rio Janeiro, 
Port Jackson, Talhujano, CaUao and G-uayaquil, and to aU of these I con- 
sider it decidedly superior. It is a salt water creek, into which several 
small streams of water empty themselves. The entrance is protected by 
an island about two miles long, which leaves at each end a channel where 
ships can enter the harbor, but extending opposite the main land, forming 
the port in such a manner as to protect it entirely from any wind that can 
possibly blow, and also breaking the swell which enters the outer bay of 
of Conchagua from the ocean. The north entrance is about a quarter of 
a mUe wide, and that at the south of the island rather wider — ^both being 
entirely free from rocks or hidden dangers, and having in no part less than 
five fathoms depth of water. At one of these openings vessels can at aU 
times enter with a leading wind, from whatever quarter it may blow. 
The inside consists of a noble basin of water, nowhere less than four 
fathoms deep, with a bottom of mud, where two hundred ships of the 
line might lie at all times in most perfect security. Merchant vessels gen- 
erally lie about a mile from the entrance, in the branch of the creek which 
runs up to Realejo, where there are about five fathoms of water over a 

23 



354 NICAEAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 

The opening of the port of San Juan del Sur, or San Juan 
de Concordia, for purposes of transit across the Continent via 
Lake Nicaragua and the Eio San Juan, it has been supposed 
will seriously affect the importance of Eealejo. The port of 
San Juan del Sur, however, can never meet the requirements 
of a considerable commerce. As a point of embarkation and 
disembarkation for steamers, it is unobjectionable; but it is 
small, and it is almost impossible for sail vessels to approach 
this part of the Nicaraguan coast. The north-east trade 
winds, which blow the entire year, here sweep across the 
whole continent, and for a considerable distance, and almost 
constantly, off the shore ; where, meeting with other currents, 
they form those peculiar, revolving, contradictory winds 
known as Papagayos, which give their name to the Gulf 
within which this port is situated. Eealejo, from this cir- 
cumstance, and that of position in respect to the back coun- 
try, must therefore remain the chief port of Nicaragua. It 
is undoubtedly the best for harbor purposes. 

mud bottom. Opposite this port there is a fine level beach, possessing 
deep water close to the edge, which would form an admirable site for a 
town, and where, at very Httle expense, a wharf might be constructed, 
capable of accommodating almost any number of vessels." — Central 
America, p. 26. 



CHAPTEE XIV, 

THE PRIESTHOOD IN NICARAGUA — DECLINE IN THE INFLUENCE OF THE CHURCH — 
BANISHMENT OF THE ARCHBISHOP — SUPPRESSION OF THE CONVENTS — PROHIBI- 
TION OF PAPAL BULLS — LEGITIMIZATION OF THE CHILDREN OF PRIESTS — THE 
THREE ABANDONED CONVENTS OF LEON — 'PADRE CARTINE, THE LAST OF THE 
FRANCISCANS — RECEPTION, OR CLOCK ROOM — THE PADRe'S PETS ; HIS ORATO- 
RY ; PRIVATE apartments; VyORKSHOP — A SKULL AND ITS HISTORY — THE 
EGLESIA DEL RECOLECCION — THE PADRE AS A LANDLORD ; AS A PAINTER J AS 
AN UNCLE ; AND AS NEGOTIATOR IN MARRIAGE — AN AUSPICIOUS OMEN — ^DEATH 
OF THE VICAR OF THE DIOCESS OF NICARAGUA — ^HIS OBSEQUIES — A FUNERAL 
ORATION — PRIESTLY ELOQUENCE — ^AN EPITAPH — GENERAL FUNERAL CEREMO- 
NIES—DEATH AS AN ANGEL OF MERCY — BURIAL PRACTICES — CAPELLANIAS ' 
THEIR EFFECTS, AND THE POLICY OF THE GOVERNMENT IN RESPECT TO THEM — 
POPULAR BIGOTRY AND SUPERSTITION — AN ANCIENT INDULGENCE — THE POTEN- 
CY OF AN EJACULATION — REMISSION OF SINS — PENETENCIAS — RATIONALE OF 
THE PRACTICE — NOVEL PENANCES — TURNING SINS TO GOOD ACCOUNT — GOOD 
FROM EVIL — SYSTEM OF THE PADRE CARTINE — THE DIOCESS OF NICARAGUA, 
AND ITS BISHOP — GENERAL EDUCATION — PUBLIC SCHOOLS — THE UNIVERSITIES 
OF LEON AND GRANADA — ^A SAD PICTURE. 

Although there is probably less religious bigotry in 
Nicaragua and San Salvador than in most of the Spanish 
American States, yet the priests still exercise considerable 
influence amongst the popular masses. To their credit, how- 
ever, be it said, that many of them, although not highly edu- 
cated, are not only men of liberal sentiments, but amongst 
the most active promoters of measures of general improve- 
ment. Previous to the Independence, the Church in Central 
America was well endowed, and quite as exacting as in any 
other part of the continent, or in Spain itself. For some 



356 NICAEAGUA— NAERATIVE. 

time subsequent to that event, it retained mucli of its strength., 
and was active in the political affairs of the country. Unfor- 
tunately, its influence was seldom felt in behalf of liberal in- 
stitutions, general or local. 

It is not to be doubted that the men who were the pro- 
moters of the Independence, and most active in the estabhsh- 
ment of the Eepublic, were very little under priestly influ- 
ence ; for one of the first acts of the National Constituent 
Assembly was to prohibit the sale of Papal indulgences, and 
to limit the exactions of the Church. This policy arrayed 
the priestly influence against the new order of things, and it 
was henceforth exercised in favor of the aristocratical, mon- 
archical, or Servile faction, against the Liberals and the Ee- 
public, — thus becoming one of the causes of many of the 
disasters to which the country has since been subjected. 
Yet the zeal of the Priests did not fail to react upon 
themselves. They entered into the arena of politics, and 
were, treated as partisans in the civil contests. They es- 
poused the cause of an obnoxious faction, and came to share 
its odium as well as its misfortunes. The Liberals, emanci- 
pated from the machinery of the Church, soon began to look 
with incredulity on its doctrines, and with contempt on its 
, forms ; and although the people of Central America are still 
nominally Catholics, yet amongst those capable of reflection, 
or possessed of education, there are more who are destitute 
of any fixed creed, rationalists, or what are sometimes called 
free thinkers, than Catholics, or adherents of any form of 
religion. Many of the priests share in the general skepticism. 

The first decided encounter between the Church and the 
Eepublic, was in 1825, when the people of San Salvador, the 
stronghold of Liberalism, dissatisfied with the political ten- 
dencies of the Bishop of Guatemala, under whose ecclesias- 
tical jurisdiction they were, elected a Bishop of their own, in 
defiance of the Archbishop and the Pope. This example 
was soon after followed by Nicaragua. The ignorant priest- 



DECLINE OF THE CHUECH. 357 

hood, tlie friars of Quesaltenango, siding with the Archbishop 
and the Serviles, infuriated by this and other bold innovations, 
contrived to excite the Indians in Los Altos, who in their 
fury cruelly slaughtered the vice-president of the Eepublic ; 
and for a time the Liberals were overwhelmed by the coali- 
tion. They, however, afterwards rallied under Gen. Morazan. 
During his enhghtened and vigorous sway, in 1829, it was 
discovered that the Archbishop was intriguing against the 
government ; and it was then the Church received a blow 
from which it can never recover. Morazan was not a man 
to be trifled with ; he boldly seized the Archbishop, and 
sent him out of the country under a guard of soldiers, for- 
bidding his return under penalty of death. The monks and 
friars belonging to the various convents and monasteries of 
Guatemala, who were deeply concerned with the Archbishop, 
were expelled in an equally summary manner. But the 
measures thus commenced did not stop here. The Legisla- 
ture of Guatemala decreed the suppression of all the male 
convents, prohibited females from becoming nuns for the 
future, and appropriated the revenues of the suppressed 
monasteries. This act was ratified by the General Congress, 
which, catching the same spirit, within two months after the 
banishment of the Archbishop declared all religious orders 
at an end throughout the Eepublic. This decisive measure 
met with the almost unanimous sanction of the people, and 
was at once carried into effect in the several States. The 
Congress also decreed not only complete Religious Liberty, 
but that the appointment to church dignities pertained to the 
nation, and should be made by the President of the Republic ; 
prohibited the promulgation of all papal bulls, unless they 
had received the previous sanction of the Federal Govern- 
ment, as also the sale or use of papal dispensations, of what- 
ever character. The State of Honduras shortly afterwards 
passed a law, which, I believe, was also adopted by all the 
other States, legalizing the marriage of the priests, and legiti- 



358 NICAEAGUA — ^NAERATIVE. 

matizing tlieir cMldren, so as to permit of their succeeding 
to tlieir fathers' property.^ 

Subsequently to tlie dissolution of tlie confederacy, and 
under tlie direction of the Serviles, the convents of Guate- 
mala were re-established, but the other States have persisted 
in the prohibitory action of 1829, or rather no attempt has 
been made to revive the monasteries suppressed under it. 
There were formerly, as I have already said, three convents 
in Leon ; that of San Juan de Dios has been converted into 
a hospital ; that of La Merced is only used by the govern- 
ment in case of need as a cuartel, or barracks. The largest, 
the Franciscan, although in a state of hopeless decay, is still 
watched over faithfully by the Padre Cartine. He has thus 
far preserved its precincts sacred from profane intrusion, and 
lingers silently amongst its dilapidated corridors, and weed- 
infested courts, like the antiquary amongst the tombs, the 
last of the powerful fraternity of San Francisco in Leon. 

The Padre Cartine is a learned man, in the continental ac- 
ceptation of the term of two centuries ago. That is to say, 
he reads Latin and the Fathers, and is familiar with the 
Natural History of Pliny ^ — ^the latest book on the subject 
with which he is acquainted, and which is his sole authority. 

^ In their zeal to educate the people, and to weaken their religious pre- 
judices, theatres were established, in which the arts and objects of priest- 
craft were exposed to ridicule, contempt, and reprobation. A play called 
"Lalnquisicionpor dentro," or "A Peep into the Inquisition," had a great 
run, and brought that institution into effectual and lasting odium. 

" In Gruatemala," says Mr. Crowe, " Papal buUs of indulgence, which 
used to be as much valued as paper currency in other countries, are now 
used by the shopkeepers as waste paper for wrapping their goods. In 
San Salvador, the Bishop, a few years since, offered first twenty and after- 
wards forty days of plenary indulgence, to be deducted from the period of 
purgatorial sufferings after death, to all who should aid in removing an 
unsightly mound of earth which disgraced one of the squares of the city, 
and injured the effect of the Cathedral ; but the mound remained, although 
the Bishop again doubled the promised remission." 



THE PADRE CARTINE. 359 

The Padre is withal a mathematician, has a Latin edition of 
Euchd, and reads it once a year by way of amusement, and 
to refresh his memory. He is an architect, and has made 
a plan for the restoration of the convent, on a scale of splen- 
dor which would beggar a prince to carry out, and feels as 
anxious about its accuracy as if the masons were to commence 
to-morrow, and any defect in the plan would ruin the archi- 
tectural effect of the structure for ever. 

I am not likely to forget my first visit to Padre Cartine. 
I found him seated in a broad arm-chair, in the principal 
room of his house. He had been a man of fine proportions, 
but was now a little corpulent, a defect only to be observed 
when he was standing. His head was of fine outline, large, 
and massive, and his face had an expression of intelligence, 
dignity, and equanimity, at once pleasing and impressive. 
He Ivore a dress of coarse, gray serge, bound at the waist by 
a rough pita cord, for he still kept up many of the austere 
practices of his order. The furniture of the house was plain 
and simple, and I believe all of the Padre's own manufacture. 
Upon a low bench extending around two sides of the room, 
was a most incongruous assortment of clocks, of every date, 
pattern, and country, from a tall cupboard contrivance of the 
last century, dingy with age, in the corner, through every 
intermediate variety, to a little German or French concern, 
which ticked spitefully from the opposite wall. There were 
cases without clocks, and clocks without cases ; besides a 
wilderness of weights, cords, pulleys, wheels, and springs ; 
for the Padre was so passionately fond of clocks, that he not 
only kept an extensive variety of his own to tinker, but 
borrowed all of his neighbors', and encouraged the distant 
villagers to bring him theirs for gratuitous cleansing and 
repair. No Jew's second-hand furniture-shop in Chatham 
street could afford more than a very faint counterpart of this 
curious collection. The Padre observed that they attracted 
my attention, and commenced a philosophical lecture on 



360 , NICAEAGUA — NARRATIVE. 

torology, wliicli I hastily brougM to a close by suggesting a 
walk through, the old convent and the church which had 
been attached to it. In the first courtyard were half a dozen 
deer, tame as kittens, which came bounding up at the sound 
of the Padre's voice ; they licked his extended hand, and held 
down their heads to have them rubbed, but failing to cajole 
the Padre out of a plantain or tortilla, butted him playfully, 
and struck at him with well-feigned malice. Upon one side 
of this court the Padre had fitted up a private chapel. It 
contained a marble altar, a wax figure of Christ, and a great 
variety of valuable ornaments saved from the wreck of the 
monastery, and with which no earthly consideration could 
prevail upon the Padre to part. An expression, half of sor- 
row, half of pride, passed over the Padre's face as he held 
the door open that we might see the precious contents of his 
oratory. From this he took us to a large room, his own pri- 
vate apartment, in which was the rough hide bed whereon 
he slept, and which contrasted strangely with a rich set of 
travelling wine and liqueur bottles, which he complacently 
displayed to us, (not badly filled, by the way), in a secure 
closet. In another room the Padre had his workshop. In 
one corner was a foot-lathe of his own construction, in which 
he turned beads from the arm-bones of defunct Senoras, to 
be strung on consecrated rosaries, and sold for the benefit of 
piety and the church — whose interests have always won- 
derfully accorded. Here were kettles containing purified 
sulphur from the volcanoes, nitre, and charcoal, to be com- 
pounded for the glorification of the saints, the service of the 
Lord, and the utter desperation of heretics, in the form of 
bombas. Here, too, was a machine, also of the Padre's in- 
vention and construction, for grinding and polishing the 
glasses of spectacles, for the Padre, amongst his multifarious 
accomplishments, was an optician, the only one, probably, in 
all Central America. He had, in fact, constructed a telescope 
for the University of Leon, and astounded the citizens by 



A SKULL, AND ITS HISTOEY. 361 

showing tliem tlie rings of Saturn I " You are a most accom- 
plislied man, Padre," said I, glancing at his mechanical 
achievements. " Jugiietes^'^ playthings, mere playthings, re- 
sponded the Padre, with a complacent smile, which was 
intended to be depreciatory. In the third courtyard, next 
the church, grew a magnificent mango tree. At its foot a 
mozo had been digging, to extirpate some burrowing animal, 
and had thrown up a variety of human bones, and amongst 
them a skull. Its delicate proportions attracted my atten- 
tion, and I stepped aside and picked it up. 

"Ah, Padfc, this is a woman's skuU, a girl's skull, I am 
sure ! Padre, how came it here ?" 

The Padre took it quickly from my hand, looked at it, 
and then gazed in. an. abstracted, reflecting manner upon the 
spot which it had occupied. After a few moments' silence, 
he spoke, deliberately removing the earth from the eye 
sockets with his fore-finger ; 

" Ah, Sen or ! she was very beautiful, this girl. She was 

the youngest daughter of Senora M ! Heaven rest her 

soul ! She died of the cholera in the year '37. Five thou- 
sand of our people died in four short months, Senor ! The 
Senorita Inez ! She was only sixteen years old, Senor ; but 
yet a woman, and beautiful, very beautiful !" 

And the Padre held the delicate skull before him, as if it 
was clothed with flesh again, and he gazed upon the smihng 
face once more. 

"Yery beautiful," he soliloquized. "She was amongst 
the first ; there are five hundred buried in this very court, 
Senor," said the Padre rapidly, turning towards me, and 
crossing himself. "Pive thousand in four months! in four 
short months!" 

The expression of the old man's face, as the memory of those 
four months came back upon him, showed how terrible and 
ineffaceable were the scenes which they had witnessed. " She 
was very beautiful!" and the Padre placed the skull gently 



362 NICAEAGUA — NARRATIVE. 

in tlie earth again, laid tlie delicate bones careMly around it, 
and with his naked hand scraped the loose earth above 
them. 

The interior of the Eglesia del Eecoleccion, which has a 
most elaborate fagade, covered with shields on which are 
exhibited all the prominent devices of the chnrch, was dark 
and gloomy. The altar was a fine one, and the Padre kept 
a lamp burning constantly before an image of the Virgin, 
which looked spectral enough beneath its feeble rays. A 
number of pictures were suspended upon the walls, among 
which were a variety of saints frying complacently upon 
gridirons, smiling from stakes of impalement, or sailing 
smoothly away amongst a swarm of baby angels and bodi- 
less cherubs, to a most substantial looking heaven, elevated 
only a few yards above the earth. We ascended into the 
tower by a series of rickety stairs, with gaps here and there 
ranging from one to four steps, up which the prudent Padre 
did not essay to go. From this tower we obtained a fine 
view, second only to that to be had from the top of the 
Cathedral. As we descended, a huge owl, which we had 
startled from his roost in some dark corner of the tower, 
nearly knocked us over in his flight. We returned through 
the Golgotha, to the grand reception or clock room, where 
the Padre showed us his plan for restoring the convent, in 
red and black ink, which required only a single thing to its 
realization, and that was precisely what the Padre did not 
know how to obtain, viz., money ! We nevertheless made 
him happy before leaving, by promising to write to the Uni- 
ted States, on his behalf, to obtain a grand clock for his 
church, which should exhibit three dials, and strike the 
hours. " Con tres frentes!" repeated the Padre, calling after 
us as we passed down the street, " with three dials !" 

The Padre ultimately became my landlord. I hired a 
house of him, which he had himself designed and built, op- 
posite the old convento. It had a grand sala and two rooms 



DECOKATIVE AET. 363 

on tlie street, witli quarters for tlie servants, and a kitclien, 
arranged after the nsual plan, — altogether one of the most 
desirable buildings in Leon. It had before rented for six dol- 
lars per month, but as I was a particular friend of the Padre, 
I got it for nine. The Padre was really ashamed to ask that 
sum, but then he had written a religious pamphlet, which he 
wanted to publish, and I told him that I should be too happy 
to contribute to that laudable object, and that the house was 
worth twice the money, — which was pretty good, considering 
that the best house in Leon rented for but fourteen dollars 
per month. The Padre had achieved a great triumph in 
painting the interior of this house. It was done in fresco, in 
a style as novel as complicated, and with as many colors as 
could conveniently be compounded. But the Padre's chef 
d^oeuvre was the menagerie, as we called it, upon the wall of 
the servants' corridor. His models had been the figures of 
animals and objects represented in the Child's First Primer, 
or illustrated alphabet, a copy of which he must have ob- 
tained from the United States or England, for there was the 
entire series commencing " A was an Ape that ran after his 
tail," down to " Z was a Zebra who came from the Cape," aU 
depicted of large size, and in flaming colors. This fact will 
perhaps sufficiently illustrate the state of decorative art in 
Nicaragua. 

The Padre had a niece {de facto, oh skeptic!) who, with 
her mother, occupied a detached part of his own house, and 
over whom; as she was exceedingly pretty, he kept most 
rigorous watch. He gave out, for the benefit of gallants, 
that he would shoot the first who should be seen around the 
premises, and really kept a loaded musket for the purpose. 
The Padre was a man of his word, and the threat was effect- 
ual in its object; the gallants kept away. The last time I 
heard from Leon, a young American, from Boston, was 
diplomatizing with the Padre for the hand of his sobrina ; it 
went hard to resign her to a heretic, but the Padre's heart is 



364 NICAEAGUA — NAREATIVE. 

soft, and even rocks yield to time. Boston and Leon ; Mas- 
sacliusetts and Nicaragua ; tlie omen is auspicious and sig- 
nificant ! 

I have elsewhere mentioned the name of the Yicario of the 
Bishopric, Don Desiderio de la Quadra, who was the first of 
the clergj to pay his respects to me, upon my arrival in Leon. 
He was then ill, and died on the 4th of October following. 
His funeral was conducted with great ceremony and solemni- 
ty. On the morning of the 5th, circulars, of which the fol- 
lowing is a copy, were directed to all the principal inhabit- 
ants, and left by a messenger bearing a sHver cross shrouded 
in crape, from the Cathedral. 

" Al Sbnor ; 

" A las seis de la tarde de ayer ha muerto nuestro muy amado tio el Sr. 
Vicario Capitular j Apostolico, Presbitero Beneficiado Dr. Don Jose De- 
siderio Quadra : su cadaver sera sepultado en la Santa Catedral Tglesia 
de esta Oiudad, saliendo el entierro a las cuatro de la tarde de la casa de 
su morada. Si TJ. se dignase honrarle con su asistencia, le seran muy re- 
conocidos sus mas atentos servidores Q. B. S. M. 

Trinidad Quadra. Mateo Matorga. 

Leon, Oduhre 5 de 1849. 

At the appointed hour we proceeded to the house which 
the Yicar had occupied. It was a large building, furnished 
in the simplest manner, for the Yicar was a practical as well 
as professed follower of Christ, and was faithful to his vows 
of poverty. All of his income, except the small sum neces- 
sary to supply his frugal wants, was devoted to charity. 
The courtyard and the corridor were already filled with peo- 
ple ; and the clergy occupied the grand sala in which the 
corpse was lying. The ceremonies of the funeral had al- 
ready commenced, we could hear the chants and prayers, 
and see the wax lights, but the place was overcrowded, and 
we did not attempt to enter. After a while a passage was 
opened through the assemblage for the bearers of the dead, 



FUKEBAL OF THE VICAB. 365 

preceded and surrounded by priests, full robed and with un- 
covered heads. The people in the courtyard knelt, as the 
remains were carried by. In the street was a sort of car, 
covered with drapery, upon which the corpse, dressed in the 
vicarial robes, was placed. Here another prayer was chant- 
ed ; and when it was concluded, the car, surrounded by the 
entire body of the clergy, and preceded by the empty eccle- 
siastical carriage, moved towards the Cathedral. All the 
of&cers of State, and a large number of the principal citizens, 
bearing wax candles, followed ; and then came the mass of 
the people, without order, but silently and decently. The 
cortege stopped at each corner, where a prayer was repeated 
in low recitative by the priests, who walked slowly around 
the car, and sprinkled the ground with holy water. The 
troops were drawn up with arms reversed, in the plaza, 
which the procession entered amidst the tolling of the muf- 
fled bells of the Cathedral. The body was carried up the 
main aisle, and placed upon an elevated platform, immedi- 
ately in front of the great altar, while the choir filled the 
vast building with the solemn tones of the chant for the 
dead. The light fell from the dome full upon the rigid face 
of the corpse, calm and cold as marble, surrounded by ear- 
nest groups, standing silently in the shadows of the lofty 
arches. An extempore funeral oration was pronounced by 
the Senor Presbitero Dean D. Eemijio Salazar, of the 
town of Bl Yiejo. It was founded on the passage in the 
eleventh chapter of Leviticus, " Sed santos, porque yo soy 
santo." "Be ye holy, for I am holy," and was given with 
good oratorical effect and much feeling, and was altogether 
impressive and appropriate. Its tenor was to show that the 
deceased, from his observance of the requisitions of God and 
the church, was entitled to be regarded as a saint. The 
analysis of what constitutes "the Israelite indeed," was 
made with great clearness and eloquence, and in more pre- 



366 NICARAGUA — ^NAREATIVE. 

> 

tending countries tlian those of Nicaragua, would have 
stamped its author as a man of no ordinary abihties. 

" The true saint," said the speaker, " walks apart from the 
glittering road trodden by the proud and selfish world. His 
is the path in the valley of humility. He pants not for the 
glory of the soldier, or the fame of the statesman, the 
splendor of wealth, or the dignity of social position. Has 
he talents ? He consecrates them to our holy religion. Has he 
wealth ? It is a free offering at the feet of Charity. Has 
he a lofty lineage, and illustrious name ? He humbly sur- 
renders them at the shrine of the Church. All this did the 
venerated dead ! He was a man who feared God, and ad- 
hered steadfastly to his service ; irreproachable in conduct, a 
faithful son, a true friend, an obedient citizen, a man disin- 
terested in his views and actions, moderate in his desires, 
uncomplaining in adversity, humble, in prosperity ; purified 
in the fire, weighed in the balance, by the loftiest standard oi 
the Holy Law, he is proved a saint ! And now, amidst the 
glorious array of saints and martyrs, beyond the clouded 
atmosphere of earth, in the eternal sunshine of Divinity, 
dwells that pure and immortal spirit whose rejected tene- 
ment, cold and motionless, we have assembled to consign to 
the silent house appointed for all living. Our tears fall on 
.the earth, but our smiles are reflected in Heaven !" 

Amongst the many epitaphs and fragmentary poetical trib- 
utes elicited by the death of this Vicar, the subjoined may 
be taken as a very fair example. With what has been pre- 
sented elsewhere, it will no doubt satisfy the reader that the 
tropical muse seldom rises to lofty flights. 

EPITAFIO 

A Ja mvsrte del muy illmtre y venerable Prelado, el Senor PresUtero Dr. 
Don Dedderio de la Quadra, Vicario Capitular de esta Diocesis. 

Despues de tantos anos de virtud, 
El feudo pagas cual mortal viviente, 



CONCEPTIONS OF DEATH. 367 

Para acercaros al trono Omnipotente 
De aquel Dios de eterna beatitud : 

Alli, alli la inmensa multitud 
De Santos que te adoran reverentes, 
Abriendo campo a tu espirftu inocente, 
Poaen en tus manos sonoro laud. 

Goza esa vida inmortal que te deseo 
Al mismo tiempo que tu muerte Uoro ; 
T mientras entre los justos yo te veo, 

Disfruta cantando en alto coro 
Safirica corona por trofeo 
De Opalo una palma, una Silla de oro. 
Leon, Octubre 5 de 1849. 

The funeral of the Vicar was far more solemn tlian any 
other which I witnessed in the country. In most instances 
the funeral ceremony has few of those gloomy accessories 
which our customs prescribe as no more than decorous. 
Youth, innocence, and beauty, like ornaments on the brow of 
age, or on the withered limbs of deformity, serve only to 
heighten the terrors of our grim conception of death, the 
gloomy and remorseless tyrant who gloats, fiend-like, over 
the victims of his skeleton arm. Theirs is a happier con- 
ception. Death mercifully relieves the infant from the sor- 
rows and the dangers of life ; and withers the rose on the 
cheeks of youth, that it may retain its bloom and fragrance 
in the more genial atmosphere of Heaven. The tear of 
grief falls only for those whose long contact with the world 
has effaced the stamp of divinity, whose matured passions 
have cankered the heart, and whose misdirected ambitions 
have diverted the aspirations of the soul and the energies of 
the mind from heaven to earth, from the grandeurs of Eter- 
nity to the frivolities of Time, 

The youngest daughter of the Licenciado D. died and was 
buried in the latter part of October. She was young, scarce 
sixteen, and the idolized child of her parents. Her funeral 
might have been her bridal, in its total freedom from out- 



368 NICAEAGUA — NARRATIVE. 

ward manifestations of grief. The procession formed before 
my window. First were musicians playing a cheerfal strain, 
and next tlie priests cliaunting a song of triumpli. After 
them, on the shoulders of young men, was borne a litter, 
covered with white satin and loaded with orange branches, 
amidst which, dressed in white as for a festival, her head 
wreathed with pure white flowers, and holding in her hands 
a silver cross, was the marble form of the dead girl. The 
bereaved parents, the sisters and relations of the deceased 
followed ; their eyes were tearless, and though the traces of 
sorrow were visible on their faces, yet over all there was an 
expression of hope, and of faith in the teachings of Him who 
has declared " Blessed are the pure in heart, for they shall 
see God." 

The funerals of infants are much the same. The body is 
invariably dressed in white, and covered with flowers. Men 
firing rockets, and musicians playing lively airs, precede the 
corpse, and the parents and relatives follow. The rationale 
of this apparent want of feeling is to be found in the Eomish 
doctrine of baptismal regeneration, according to which the 
departed spirit being in heaven, there is more cause for hap- 
piness than grief. 

When an adult is dangerously ill, or djdng, a priest is 
called, who goes for the Yiaticum. An altar is hastily erected 
in the sick chamber ; a crucifix is placed upon it, surrounded 
with lighted candles and flowers, a place being left for the 
Costodia^ a vessel generally of gold and richly jewelled, con- 
taining the consecrated wafer. This is brought by a priest 
in a litter or carriage, surrounded by soldiers and boys bear- 
ing lighted candles, and preceded by music, — sometimes 
consisting only of a single violin. The people kneel as the 
procession passes through the streets. Arrived at the sick 
chamber, the sacrament and the last rites of the church are 
administered to the dying one, whose friends, gathering close 
around the bed, whisper "Jesus te ampara," "Jesus te aux- 



FUNERAL RITES. 369 

ilie," "Maria te favoresca," — Jesus protect thee, Jesus help 
thee, Maria favor thee, — and then, when they suppose the 
final struggle transpiring, they ejaculate, "Jesus, Jesus, 
Jesus !" 

" Among the more refined inhabitants," says Mr. Crowe, 
in his interesting book on Guatemala, (and the same practice 
is followed throughout the country,) " after the coffin, covered 
with black velvet, has been removed from between the 
gigantic candles which cast a pale glare upon it in the sombre 
apartment, it is followed by a long train of friends on foot, 
bearing lighted candles, to the church, and then to the ceme- 
tery. When the corpse has been finally deposited, the friends 
return slowly and in groups to the house of mourning, where 
the chief mourner has remained, and is now waiting to 
receive them in a large room or hall, hung with black cloth, 
at one end of which he sits, supported on his left or right by 
two near kinsmen or special friends. The visitors sit silently 
before him for a few minutes, on seats which are placed for 
them on either side of the room, and having thus manifested 
their participation in the grief of the family, they rise, one 
after another, gently press the hand of the chief mourner, 
and, if they are intimate friends, perhaps add a word or two 
of condolence. They then retire, and are succeeded by others 
in the same manner." ^ 

There is, however, much that is repugnant in the burials, 
particularly as practised in Leon. Near most of the towns 
is what is called the Campo Santo, an enclosed consecrated 
cemetery, in which the dead are buried upon the payment of 
a small sum, which is devoted to keeping the grounds in 
order. But in Leon the practice of burying in the churches 
has always prevailed, and is perpetuated through the influ- 
ence of the priests, who derive a considerable fee from each 
burial. The consequence is, that the ground within and 



' Gospel in Central America, p. 373. 
24 



370 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 

around tlie clnarclies lias become (if the term is admissible) 
saturated with the dead. The burials are made according to 
the amount paid to the church, for from ten to twentj-five 
years, at the end of which time the bones, with the earth 
around them, are removed and sold to the manufacturers of 
nitre ! The government has opposed the entire practice for 
many years, and during the period of the cholera prohibited it. 
But the instability of affairs in the country has been such, 
that the authorities have hesitated to provoke the hostility of 
the entire priesthood by putting a peremptory end to the 
practice. Coffins are rarely used. The corpse is placed at the 
bottom of the grave, the earth rudely thrown in, and beaten 
hard with heavy rammers, with a degree of indifference, not 
to say brutality, which is really shocking, and which I never 
permitted myself to witness a second time. 

Amongst the sources of revenue to which the priesthood 
has adhered with greatest tenacity, and the gradual abolition 
of which is one of the leading measures of the Government 
policy of Nicaragua, is what is called the capellama, or lien 
on property, conveyed to the priests by proprietors at their 
death, to secure certain masses or other priestly interpositions 
on behalf of their souls, or conveyed to churches for the 
same laudable objects. Thus Don Fulano finding his end 
approaching, gives to his priest a lien of twenty dollars a 
year on his estate, in consideration of which a certain num- 
ber of masses shall be said for him annually. Next year the 
Dona Fulano dies, and, not to be outdone in piety, she 
secures to her favorite church another annual sum to be 
invested in " villainous saltpetre" for the glorification of her 
protecting Santa, and the benefit of her own " alma." It will 
readily be seen that the continuance of this process through 
a series of years must, in the end, seriously embarrass the 
real estate of the country, and prove an effectual check to 
the improvement of that species of property. Thus the most 
desirable portions of Leon, once covered with squares of 



DECLINE OF POPULAR BIGOTRY. 371 

palaces, are now waste and unoccupied, in consequence of 
the accumulation of tlie capellanias, which, exceed in amount 
the market vahie of the ground. 

Dming my stay in Leon, and in spite of the opposition of 
those interested in maintaining them, the Legislative Cham- 
bers decreed the abolition of ten per cent, of the capellanias, 
excepting those dedicated to educational purposes. Pre- 
viously, I believe, fifteen per cent, had been appropriated by 
the Grovernment, and offered for commutation at a nominal 
sum. The entire extinction of the capellanias, and the 
release of the property which they have so long burthened 
and rendered valueless, will be the ultimate and happy 
result of these advances. 

I have said that the masses of the people still cherish 
something of their original religious bigotry. It is, never- 
theless, fast giving way to more liberal sentiments, and no 
objection is made to foreigners on the score of religion, so 
long as they preserve a decent respect for the ceremonies of 
the church, and do not outrage the prejudices which educa- 
tion and custom have created, and which are no more numer- 
ous nor stronger than with us, although they have a some- 
what different direction. That there is much of ignorance 
and superstition amongst the people, is unfortunately true ; 
nor is the fact at all surprising, in consideration of their 
antecedents, and the circumstances under which they have 
been placed.' 

It is somewhat difficult to ascertain how far the faith of 
the better classes in papal infallibility, and other matters to 
which an apparent entire deference is accorded, really ex- 
tends. We can hardly conceive that the following antiquated 

' An English Protestant Missionary, Mr. F. Orowe, who was established 
in Guatemala for some years, until driven out by the servile Government 
has recently published a work entitled the " Gospel in Central America " 
in which he observes : 

" Of the fact that infidehty has spread extensively in Central America, 



372 



NICAEAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 



indulgence should be posted upon every door in tlie houses 
of tlie most intelligent famHes, except in politic conformity 
to prejudices, not shared by those families themselves, but 
which they do not care to oppose. Yet it met my eye 
almost everywhere, in the houses alike of the rich and the 
poor, of the Indian and the Caballero : — 



ALABADO SEA EL 
SANTISIMO 

SACRAMENTO 
DEL ALTAR! 

Nuestro Santlsimo Padre Paulo V. de feliz memoria, en su Bula de 
17. de Abril despachada en Roma del ano del Senor de 1612, conce- 
dio indulgencia plenaria, y remision de la tercera parte de los peca- 
dos, a cualquiera persona que en su casa tuviere escrito donde su 
pueda ler |^° la anterior jaculatoriA ; ,.^3 1 y la misma indul- 
gencia plenaria, todas las veces que lo leyeren, y el que no supiere 
ler, venerare el escrito. 

Copiado del original de indulgendas. 



and particularly so amongst the very classes upon which Romanism had 
formerly the strongest hold, there can be no doubt. It is proved by the 
almost total abandonment of the outward observances of Popery by the 
better educated amongst the Ladinos, and, in spite of their poUtical ten- 
dencies, by the whites and pure Creoles also. With the exception of the 
more weak amongst the women and children, scarcely any of these classes 
are now to be seen attending mass or confession, and other requirements 
are generally neglected by them. Numbers of infidel books are to be 
found in the libraries, and in the hands of all classes and sexes. So 
strongly are the minds of these classes imbued with deistical and atheis- 
tical notions, that it becomes apparent, and is unblushingly avowed in 



ANTIQUATED INDULGENCES. 373 

PRAISE BE TO THE 
MOST HOLY SACRAMENT OF THE ALTAE! 

" Our most holy Father Paul V. of happy memory, in his Bull from 
Eome, April 17, in the year of our Lord 1612, conceded plenary indulg- 
ence and remission of the thii-d part of his sins to whoever should 
write in his house where it might be read I^^the preceding ejacula- 
TioN„j^; and the same plenary indulgence every time he should read it, 
or if he should not be able to read, every time he should venerate the 
writing," i e., look upon it with veneration. 

" Bendito y alabado sea el Santo Sacramento del Altar," 
Blessed and praised be tlie lioly Sacrament of tlie Altar, is 
the common ejaculation of the servant who in the evening, 
first brings lighted candles into the occupied rooms of the 
various houses. It is uttered mechanically, in a drawling, 
nasal tone, and was formerly always responded to by the 
members of the family ; but like many other customs, the 
latter part of the practice has now become obsolete. The 
recipient of a favor acknowledges it by " Dios se lo pague," 
God repay you ; if an engagement is made, it is with the 
qualification, "si Dios quiere," if Grod wills; and when a 
bond is entered into, it is always with the reservation, "Pri- 
mero Dios," i. e., if my first duty to God will permit. The 
" higher law" is always recognized, in form if not in spirit. 

general conversation. Nay, some of the more candid among the priests 
openly espouse these notions." — p. 257. 

Some of the priests, this author adds, ridicule the pretended authority 
of the Pope, and rejoice at the emancipation of the people from the 
Church of Eome. Mr. Crowe rejoices also, at the success of infidelity 
over Romanism, as hkely to result in good. " The change from Popery, 
or any other analogous system," he writes, "to the entire rejection of re- 
vealed rehgion, is one which believers in Divine Revelation may hail with 
satisfaction, if they be prepared to take advantage of it; for it breaks up 
prejudices of education, leads to thought and inquiry, and sometimes 
to a sincere and earnest search after truth!" 



374 NIOAEAGUA — ^NAEKATIVE. 

"Dios sobre todos," Grod over all, is tlie commonest of pro- 
verbs. 

The public Penitencias, or Penances, afford striking 
illustrations of the strength, of the popular superstitions, and 
of the priestly influence. I witnessed one of these, shortly 
after my arrival in Leon. It consisted of a long procession 
of men and boys, one or two hundred in number, barefooted 
and stripped to the waist, their heads and faces covered with 
veils so as to prevent recognition, who marched through the 
public streets, from one church to another, flagellating 
themselves with raw hide thongs. They were preceded by 
a life-size figure of Christ on the cross, a score of musicians, 
and a crowd of priests and women, (all of the latter barefoot' 
ed and some bearing heavy crosses on their shoulders,) who 
chanted prayers, while the penitents beat time with the 
thongs over their own shoulders. Each one carried a little 
cross before him in his hand, with his head bent forward as if 
in earnest contemplation of the sacred symbol. It was a sin- 
gular spectacle ; for there were black bodies, and brown, and 
white bodies, and yellow, and the sharp strokes of the thongs 
in the pauses of the slow and mournful music, fairly made 
the flesh of the spectator creep. There was, however, no spe- 
cial occasion for sympathy, for each penitent had it in his 
power to graduate the force of his own blows to his own 
notions of the enormity of his moral offences. Some laid it 
on gently, — moderate sinners ! — merely as a matter of form ; 
but there were others who punished themselves lustily, and 
drew blood from their quivering flesh at every blow, which 
ran down to their very heels, and purpled the ground where 
they trod. 

It seems almost incredible that these heathenish practices, 
only one remove from human sacrifices, should yet be perpet- 
uated amongst nations claiming to be civflized. Still, when 
we reflect that fasts and other mortifications of the body are 
prescribed by the rituals of our own churches, and pro- 



KEMNANTS OF BARBARISM. 375 

claimed from the executive cliair of our own nation, we 
ought not to be surprised at any manifestation of human 
folly, or wonder that the popular conception of God is not yet 
purified from the horrible and detestable features with which 
it was invested in the darkest ages of the world, and in the 
most debased stages of the human mind. The belief that 
the all-good and ominipotent Euler of the Universe can be 
pleased with the self-inflicted punishment of his creatures, 
whether it be through fasting or flagellation, differs in no re- 
spect from that which actuates the frantic Hindoo, who pros- 
trates himself before the crushing wheels of Jaggenath, or 
that inflamed the poor Mexican, who offered his willing 
breast to the knife of the Aztec priest, that his palpitating 
heart might bathe the lips of the idol which was the visible 
representation of his sanguinary God! 

There were other Penitencias, not public, but which were 
perhaps more severe. A hundred or more of the penitents 
are sometimes locked within a church, where they remain for 
nine days, sleeping but four hours out of the twenty-four, 
and eating but once in that period. The rest of the time is 
divided between the various ceremonies prescribed by the 
rigid rules of the penitencia, upon their knees, or prone on 
the rough floor of the dark church in which they are con- 
fined. While I resided near the Eglesia de la Merced, one 
of these penitencias took place, and I was several times 
awakened in the dead of night by the wailings of the peni- 
tents, mingling harshly with the low and cheerful melodies 
of that Nature which harmonizes with its great Author, and 
upon whose laws kingcraft and priestcraft, the world over, 
and in every age, have waged a constant and most unnatural 
and unholy war. The horrible doctrine of original sin, and 
the ef&cacy of austerities, penances, and immolations, parts 
of one system, find the best evidence of their truth in the 
fact of their existence amongst men ! I saw the enthusiasts 
when they came out of the church, pale, haggard, and filthy ; 



376 NICARAaUA — ^NARRATIVE. 

some, in fact, so exhausted that they could not walk witlioiit 
assistance, and who tottered from the scenes of their debase 
ment to beds of sickness and death. 

Yery novel penances are sometimes prescribed by the 
priests by way of atonement for individual iniquities. The 
Padre Cartine was particularly ingenious and happy in im- 
posing them. Lazy fellows and hon vivants, to whom he 
thought exercise and fasting would prove beneficial, he sent 
bare-footed and alone to El Viejo, or some place at a distance, 
under the restriction to speak to no human being on the 
way, nor to eat, nor yet to sleep, until their return. A 
heavy stone, rough and angular, had sometimes to be carried 
on the naked' shoulders of the penitent, or a cross of heavy 
wood, according to the more or less heinous nature of the 
poor devil's offences. Carpenters, masons, and all other 
valuable sinners, whose labor could be turned to good ac- 
count, the Padre set to work in repairing or improving his 
church and the buildings attached to it, and never failed to 
put the good workmen " well in for it." Occasionally he 
got hold of a stupid fellow who failed to perform a profitable 
day's labor. In such cases the Padre had a whip, made of 
the skin of the dante, or tapir, which he scrupled not to apply 
to the delinquent's back, for the benefit of his soul, and the 
acceleration of the particular job in hand. And it is report- 
ed that these applications are sometimes accompanied with 
terms more forcible than complimentary ; but I don't vouch 
for the truth of that. 

For one or two months during my stay in Leon, the Padre 
had under his surveillance a priest, suspended for licentious 
conduct, with whom he was extremely rigorous. I was an 
accidental witness of his severity on one occasion, when the 
Host was passing. The suspended Padre, in common with 
all the people, came to the door, but instead of bending hke 
the rest on the hard threshold, he knelt comfortably in a 
soft-bottomed chair. The indignant monk saw the dodge, 



THE DIOCESS OF NICAKAGUA. 377 

and rising hastily, witli a vigorous blow of his foot knocked 
the chair from underneath the dehnquent, who came down 
with a force which must have jarred every bone in his sinful 
body. The course of fasting and prayer through which that 
priest was "put" by the Padre Oartine, if report speaks true, — 
midnight vigils, and noonday masses, — would have reformed 
Silenus, and made a saint of Bacchus. 

Nicaragua and Oosta Eica together constitute a Diocess of 
a very ancient date. It was organized as early as 1526. For 
the period intervening between 1832 and 1849, the Bishop's 
chair was vacant ; but in the latter year Don GtEOKGE Yite- 
Ei Y Ungo, once Secretary of State of Guatemala, and sub- 
sequently Bishop of San Salvador, received the appointment, 
and is now in discharge of its functions. I have already 
described him as a man of great intelligence, and polished 
manners. He has travelled much, and never fails to leave a 
favorable impression on the minds of foreigners. Yet in the 
country he is accounted an intrigante^ and does not seem to 
enjoy the full confidence of the leading inhabitants, who 
nevertheless treat him with all respect and courtesy. While 
Bishop of San Salvador, he is said to have taken an undue 
interest in political affairs, and this was the cause of his de- 
position from that diocess ; for the people of San Salvador 
are quite as Hberal in religion as politics, and will tolerate no 
interference in public affairs by the clergy, as such. They 
nevertheless concede to them the utmost latitude as individu- 
als, and while making no distinctions in their favor, make 
none against them. 

In respect to Education, both amongst the clergy and the 
people of Nicaragua, little need be said, except that the 
standard is exceedingly low. I spare myself the painfal ne- 
cessity of writing upon the subject, by translating the follow- 
ing impartial passages from a private letter on this point, 
addressed to me by one of the best informed and patriotic 
citizens of Leon. A knowledge of their own deficiencies and 



378 NIOAEAGUA — ^NAEEATIVE. 

wants, by any people, is indispensable to secure a remedy ; 
and the fact that some of the best men in Nicaragua are 
looking the evils of ignorance full in the face, is one of the 
best signs in the horoscope of the country. 

"Education in Nicaragua," says my correspondent, "is 
generally much neglected ; particularly in the departments 
of Ohontales and Segovia, where there are some towns with- 
out a single teacher of any grade. Here the elements of edu- 
cation are only taught, if taught at all, by the fathers of 
families to their children, in the evening before going to bed ; 
but this instruction seldom reaches beyond learning them to 
repeat their catechism. In these places, as also in some 
others where there are teachers, it is a common thing for 
parents to send their children to the house of some poor 
neighbor, where they are taught the catechism, and to make 
certain pot-hooks, called writing. These apologies for teach- 
ers have no recompense beyond an occasional small present. 
The mode adopted by them is to repeat the lesson once or 
twice viva voce, with the children ; and their principal occu- 
pation consists in permittting the latter to do what they 
please, and in assisting them in doing it ! 

"In the towns where there are teachers, there are seldom 
more than one or two public schools ; in the larger places 
there are, perhaps, a few more, but unfortunately all of pretty 
nearly the same character with those above described. In 
these schools are taught only the fundamental doctrines of 
Christianity, reading and writing ; nor is this done in accord- 
ance with any good system, but generally by a process which 
is little better than a burlesque. The lesson is repeated after 
the master, simultaneously by the whole school, and it is 
difficult to say which shouts loudest, the master or the 
scholars ; but it is always easy to tell the proximity of a 
schoolhouse, from the noise. The localities of these schools 
are generally bad and filthy, as is also the clothing of the 
scholars, which often consists of nothing more than a shirt. 



POPULAK EDUCATION. 379 

In some of tlie towns, as Masaya, Managua, and Cliinandega, 
the public scliools are filled to overflowing, and as each one 
has no more than a single teacher, he can only bestow a very 
superficial attention upon the individual scholars. In these 
towns there are also some higher schools, in which Latin is 
taught, after the old method, painful alike to teacher and 
student, and generally with no result except the knowledge 
that Senor Fulano has studied this language for so many 
years ! There are also, in these towns, phantom classes in 
what is called Philosophy, the extent of whose acquirements 
consists in studying badly, and understanding worse, some 
paragraphs in Lugdunensis. 

"Besides their public schools, both Granada and Leon 
have each a University. That of Leon is oldest, having 
been founded in the year 1675. 

" In these Universities are taught the following branches : 
Latin and Spanish Grrammar, Philosophy, Civil and Canoni- 
cal Law, and Theology. Lately a class in English has been 
organized in that of Leon ; and a class in both English and 
French in that of Grranada. Of Mathematics and other cog- 
nate branches nothing is taught, nor scarcely anything 
known. The authority in Spanish is Alemany; in Latin, 
Nebrisa ; in Philosophy, Lugdunensis ; in Civil Law, Salas ; 
in Canonical Law, Devoti ; in Theology, Larraga. The time 
devoted to these studies is, to Spanish, Grammar, and Latin, 
two years and a half; to Philosophy, two years ; Civil and 
Canonical Law, and Theology, three years. But many have 
not the patience to go through the prescribed time, and leap- 
ing over these various branches of study, succeed in securing 
their titles. There are priests, in orders, who have never so 
much as read the Padre Larraga ! 

"In order to obtain the degrees and secure the tassel, it is 
not necessary to know much ; it is enough to have a general 
idea or two, to stand well with the professors, be able to 
pay the fees punctually, to spread a good table of refresh 



380 ' NICAEAGUA — ^NAEEATIVE, 

ments, and to have a blazing display of fireworks. I have 
known instances in which the candidate did not answer well 
more than a single question, and yet obtained unanimously 
the degree which he sought. There are more Bachelors than 
men ; Doctors swarm everywhere ; and there are families of 
wealth and influence in which the tassel goes (practically) by 
descent ! 

" The professors of Languages and Civil Law in 1850, in 
Leon, were very good ; but the professor in the latter depart- 
ment, occupied with other matters, has permitted his place 
to be very poorly filled by certain Bachelors. In fact, all the 
professors do but little ; principally because their salaries are 
insignificant in amount, seldom exceeding $200 per annum. 
Their lectures are got through with very rapidly, rarely 
occupying more than an hour each, and are scarcely ever 
illustrated, or enforced by examples in point. 

"Concerning the University of Granada, I am not well 
informed, but it is doubtless on about the same footing with 
that of Leon ; or, if any comparison may be instituted, some- 
thing worse. 

" To the defects in the system of Education in Nicaragua 
is to be ascribed, in great part, the troubles with which the 
State has been afflicted. There is nothing practical in the 
lessons which are taught in the schools ; the studies are all 
abstract, and the fixedness of character and liberality of 
views which follow from a knowledge of the present condi- 
tion and relations of the world, an understanding of modern 
sciences, Geography, Chemistry, Mineralogy, Mathematics, 
Engineering, etc., etc., are never attained. The men of 
education, so called, are therefore mere creatures of circum- 
stances and impulses, in common with the most ignorant 
portion of the population, and fully as vacillating in their 
ideas. Their education is just sufficient to give them power 
to do mischief, instead performing the legitimate office of 
truly comprehensive acquirements, that of a balance-wheel. 



EDUCATION IN NICARAGUA, 381 

Wlaat may be called tlie moral effect of an education, that 
which contributes to form the character of the man and 
mould it upon a just model, is wanting in the system, or 
rather no-system, not only of Nicaragua, but of all the other 
Spanish American States. 

"In Nicaragua, therefore, in the absence of teachers, 
methods, books, instruments, and of nearly all the elements 
of teaching, there is nothing which can properly be called 
education/ Not because there are no latent capacities or 
dispositions for learning amongst the people ; nor do I mean 
to say that there is a total absence of really cultivated and 
well-educated men. On the contrary, there a number who 
have had opportunities of acquiring education through the 
assistance of private teachers, or who have perfected them- 
selves abroad ; but these are lost in the mass of ignorance 
and shallow acquirements which surround them. 

" In Leon, I may add, there are ten or a dozen schools, in 
some of which there is an average daily attendance of two 
hundred scholars. The highest pay of teachers is ten dollars 
per month." 

But notwithstanding the general deficiency in education, 
and the means of acquiring it, there exists a most laudable 

' " The books employed," says Mr. Orowe, "besides the gloomy charac- 
ter of their contents, are in bulk sufficient to discourage the most enter- 
prising child. They are four or five in number, consisting of heavy vol- 
viiaes, which make an antique collection, heavy and dry enough to dis- 
courage adults. First 'La Cartilla,' containing the alphabet, the forms of 
prayer, and the commandments of the Church, with no attempt at grada- 
tion. The second, 'El Canon,' the third, 'El Catecismo,' and fourth, 'El 
EamiHete.' All these, which are much larger than the first, contain theo- 
logical definitions, digests of doctrines, creeds, holy legends, and devotional 
formulas, addressed to the Virgin and the Saints. Through every one of 
these the unhappy scholar is doomed to wade from beginning to end; and 
so deep is his aversion to the task, and so great is the triumph when a 
child has overcome one of these obstacles to his progress, that the event is 
actually celebrated in his family by feasting." — p. 287. 



382 NICAEAGUA— NAKRATIVE. 

ambition to secure its benefits. The States of Nicaragua, San 
Salvador, and Costa Eica, offer the largest encouragement to 
the establishment of schools of every grade. Under the old 
Confederation, during the dominance of the Liberals, the 
most effective means were adopted to educate the people. 
The officers of the army and the subordinates of the Grovern- 
ment, when not occupied with the immediate duties of their 
stations, opened free schools in the barracks of the soldiery, 
in the ofl&ces of customs, and the rooms of the general and 
local courts. The house of the National Government, at 
the close of ofl&ce hours, became an academy. But the sys- 
tem of education, as all the other plans of improvement 
originating with the Liberals, were suspended during the 
disturbances created by the Serviles, and overthrown when- 
ever and wherever the latter attained ascendancy. In the 
new career now opening before Central America, the subject 
of education claims and no doubt will receive the first atten 
tion of .the respective States. But nothing beneficial can be 
done without a complete abandonment of the old systems of 
teaching — old authorities and books, and the substitution of 
others adapted to the age, and the state of general knowledge 
amongst civilized nations. If creeds and catechisms are still 
required, let them be assigned their proper time and place ; 
they constitute no part of an education, and are chilling and 
oppressing in their influences on the youthful mind. The 
sooner this fact is not only understood, but acted upon, in 
Central America, the better for its people. 



CHAPTEE XV. 

VISIT TO THE CAPITAL CITT, MANAGUA — LEGISLATIVE ASSEMBLY; HOW TO 
PROCCTRE A QUORUM — EXECUTIVE MESSAGE — RATIFICATION OF TREATY WITH 
THE UNITED STATES — ANTIQUITIES — LAKE OF NIHAPA — HUERTAS — DITIDING 
RIDGE — TRACES OF VOLCANIC ACTION — HACIENDA DE GANADO — AN EXTEN- 
SIVE PROSPECT — EXTINCT CRATER — ANCIENT PAINTINGS ON THE CLIFFS — 
SYMBOLICAL FEATHERED SERPENT — A NATURAL TEMPLE — SUPERSTITIONS OF 
THE INDIANS — SALT LAKE — ^LAGUNA DB LAS LAVADORAS — ^A COURIER — THREE 
MONTHS LATER FROM HOME — THE SHORE OF LAKE MANAGUA — ABORIGINAL 

FISHERIES — ^ANCIENT CARVING POPULATION OF MANAGUA — RESOURCES OF 

SURROUNDING COUNTRY — COFFEE — INHABITANTS — ^VISIT TIPITAPA — SUNRISE 
ON THE LAKE — HOT SPRINGS — OUTLET OP LAKE — MUD AND ALLIGATORS — 
DRY CHANNEL — VILLAGE OF TIPITAPA — SURLY HOST — SALTO DE TIPITAPA 
— HOT SPRINGS AGAIN — STONE BRIDGE — FACE OF THE COUNTRY — NICARAGUA 

OR BRAZIL WOOD — ESTATE OF PASQUIEL PRACTICAL COMMUNISM— MATA- 

PALO OR KILL-TREE — LANDING AND ESTERO OF PASQUIEL OR PANALOYA — 
RETURN — DEPTH OP LAKE MANAGUA — COMMUNICATION BETWEEN THE TWO 
LAKES — POPULAR ERRORS. 

\ Althouh Leon is de facto tlie seat of tlie Mcaraguan 
Government, yet the framers of tlie existing constitution of 
tlie State, in view of tlie rivalry and jealousy wMch exist be- 
tween tlie cities of Granada and Leon, and in order to relieve 
tlie Legislative Assembly from ttie overawing political influ- 
ence of tlie latter, designated the city of Managua as the place 
of its meeting. The choice was in many respects a good 
one ; Managua is not only central as regards position, but 
its inhabitants are distinguished for their attachment to "law. 
and order," and their deference to constituted government. 

The task of getting together the members of the Assem- 
bly, which is comprised of a House of Deputies and a Sen- 



384 NIOAEAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 

ate, is not an easy one. The attractions of the city of Mana- 
gua are not great; the pay is only a dollar and a half per 
diem, and such is the precarious condition of the Treasury, 
that this small sum is not always secure. Nor are there any 
profitable contracts to be obtained for friends, with contin- 
gent reversions to incorruptible members ; no mileage to 
speak of; in fact, few if any of those inducements to patriotic 
zeal which make our citizens so ambitious of seats in the 
National Congress. As a consequence, it is usually necessary, 
in order to secure a constitutional quorum for the transac- 
tion of business, to announce beforehand that a sufficient 
sum for the payment of members is actually in the Treasury, 
and will be reserved for that express purpose. But even 
this is not always sufficient, and the Government has several 
times come to a stand still for want of a quorum. An in- 
stance of this kind occurred during the administration of 
Gen. Guerrero, who found himself for a week in Managua, 
with his cabinet officers around him, but utterly unable to 
act. The Assembly lacked two of a quorum, and precisely 
that number of members, elected from the city of Leon, 
were absent. They were the Licenciado Z., and the Doctor 
of Medicine J., men of mark in the country, but for a variety 
of reasons not then desirous of committing themselves on the 
measures of public policy which were to be brought before 
the Chambers. The Director wrote to them, stating the con- 
dition of the Assembly, and soliciting their immediate attend- 
ance. The lawyer excused himself on the ground of illness, 
and the doctor, because he had no horse, nor money for his 
expenses. But they mistook their man ; in a few minutes 
after their replies were received, the General had despatched 
two officers of the National Guard to Leon, and before day- 
light the next morning the Licenciado was politely waited 
upon by one of them, attended by a file of soldiers, and in- 
formed that there was an ox- cart at the door, with a good 
bed of straw, wherein the soldiers would carefully lift him, 



HOW TO PROCURE A QUORUM. 385 

and wlierc lie would find tlie army doctor, to administer to 
his necessities during his journey to Managua. The Licen- 
ciado expostulated, but the ofl&cer looked at his watch and 
coolly observed that the . cart must start in precisely three 
minutes, and dead or alive the Licenciado must go. The 
doctor was waited upon in like manner, with the information 
that the Director had sent his own horse for his accommoda- 
tion, and four rials (half a dollar) for his expenses, and that 
he had five minutes wherein to prepare himself for the ex- 
cursion I It is needless to add that the lawyer was suddenly 
cured, and that both he and the delinquent doctor duly 
filled out the quorum at Managua. They each tell the story 
now as an exceedingly good joke, but the General avers that 
at the time of their appearance in their seats, their manners 
and temper were far from angelic. 

The Legislative Assembly had been called to meet on the 
15th of September, to act on the treaty just negotiated with 
the United States, and on the canal contract which had been 
conceded to certain American citizens, under the conditional 
guaranty of their government. The hopes of the people 
were much elevated, from the nature of the subjects to be 
brought before the Assembly, and it was thought that the 
constitutional quorum would be got together at the time 
appointed, without resort to any extraordinary measures for 
the purpose of securing it. It was not, however, until the 
19th that we received ofl&cial information of the organiza- 
tion of the Chambers, and we lost no time in proceeding to 
Managua, where Pedro Blanco had long before received 
orders to prepare a house for our reception, and to adopt 
efficient measures for the extirpation of "laspulgas." We 
left Leon on the afternoon of one day, and reached Managua 
during the forenoon of the next. Don Pedro had newly 
white-washed a house, occupying the " esquina," or corner 
opposite his own, and installed a couple of servants, in an- 

25 



386 NICAEAGUA — NARRATIVE. 

ticipation of our arrival. So we were at once comfortably 
provided for. 

The address, or message, of tlie Director liad been deliv- 
ered in joint meeting of tlie two Houses on tlie morning of 
our arrival, and everything was going on smoothly and har- 
moniously in the Assembly, It was, according to custom, 
delivered in person, to the two Houses in convention, and 
responded to by the President of the Senate. The subjoined 
passages from both the address and reply, for reasons already 
given, will prove of interest. The Director, Senor Ea- 
MIREZ said: 

" I experience the liveliest emotions of joy in witnessing once more 
the union of the representatives of the Nicaraguan people, after the terri- 
ble tempest which has passed over the country, and which at one time 
threatened not only to subvert its hberties, but to destroy its very exist- 
ence as a civihzed nation. Brighter days have succeeded to that period 
of confusion and fear, and we are now again enjoying the unspeakable 
blessings of peace. In view of this happy result, your satisfaction, Citi- 
zen Eepresentatives, must equal my own ; and I am sure that the desires 
for the future happiness and prosperity of Nicaragua which sweU my 
own bosom, and to which words are too weak to give utterance, exist 
also in yours. 

" We have undoubtedly arrived at a crisis in our national career. After 
unparalleled sufferings, heroically endured, our country has risen from the 
abasement to which many years of civil war and the ferocious passions of 
men had reduced it. But these evils have only passed away to give 
place to others scarcely less deplorable, resulting from foreign pretensions 
and aggressions. Prom these it is our obvious duty, not less than our 
only safety, to solicit the interposition of some powerful and friendly 
arm. Should this be generously extended in our favor, we may smile at 
the intrigues and harmless mahce of the enemies of society and social 
order, which exist in our midst. We may then look forward with well- 
grounded anticipations of a glorious future. We may then devote our 
energies to the development of our almost hmitless resources, to the pro- 
motion of commerce and industry, the revival of education, the improve- 
ment of our roads and our navigable lakes and rivers ; — in fact, to all 
those grand and useful objects to which no government, unless at peace 



ADDRESS OF DIRECTOR. 387 

with tlie world, and fi-ee from foreign interference and annoyance, can 
successfully devote its energies. 

" For this relief we need not despair. We may yet be called upon to 
make sacrifices to secure it ; but it must come with the successful prose- 
cution of that grand enterprise of connecting the two great oceans, which 
is now occupying the paramount attention of the commercial world : — an 
enterprise which is not only fraught with immense results to trade, but 
which must work a total change in the poUtical and moral relations ot 
all the countries of the globe ; the greatest work, not of this cycle alone, 
but of all ages. 

" As a direct and essential step toward the consummation of this grand 
enterprise, with its train of consequences so important to our indepen- 
dence and prosperity, I have the honor to submit a Treaty of Alhance, 
Friendship, Commerce, and Protection, negotiated with the Honorable 
Plenipotentiary of the great and enUghtened EepubHc of the United 
States of North America, and a contract for opening a Ship Canal, con- 
cluded between the agent of an American Company and this Government, 
— upon both of which you will be called to act, in conformity with the 
constitution." 

The President of tlie Senate, Don Toribo Teraist, re 
sponded to this address at length. The tenor of his remarks 
will appear from the following passages : 

" Sir, this Assembly is actuated by the earnest desire of cooperating 
with the Executive in whatever shall promote the interests or the glory 
of the State ; and offers its prayers to Heaven for hght and guidance in 
the discharge of its intricate duties. It desires me to feUcitate you upon 
the wisdom and firmness with which you discharged the responsible duties 
of your position during the late troubles, and which saved the State from 
the terrors which at one time impended on the poHtical horizon. It con- 
gratulates you also upon the dignity and skill vvith which you have con- 
ducted the foreign relations of the country, which have raised it in the 
estimation of other and more powerful nations, and secured for it their 
sympathy and confidence. 

"The efforts and sacrifices of the State in support of civil and social 
order have been great, but most happily successful ; the hydra of anarchy 
is crushed, and, so far as the internal relations of our country are con- 
cerned, we look forward to a peaceful future, and a rapid and constant 
progress. To foreign pretensions and the territorial aggressions with which 
we have been persecuted, and which are now the only sources of disquiet 



388 NICAEAGUA— NARRATIVE. 

to the State, let us hope for the early interposition of that nation to which 
we have always been accustomed to look as a model for ourselves — a 
nation powerful, enUghtened, and naturally called to defend our territory, 
in conformity with the great and glorious principle which it was the first 
to proclaim, and which finds a response in every American heart, viz. : 
that ' The American Continent belongs to Americans, and is sacred to 
Eepubhcan Institutions.' " 

It will not be out of place to add here, tliat botli treaty and 
contract were nnanimoiisly ratified, at tlie earliest moment, 
after passing through, the forms prescribed by the constitu- 
tion, — a proof of the confidence and friendship of the people 
and Government of Nicaragua, which we, as Americans, 
should never forget. The news of the event was everywhere 
received with extraordinary demonstrations of satisfaction 
and joy; and it is most earnestly to be desired that the hopes 
which it created may not, from the mistaken policy of Gov- 
ernment, or the bad faith of companies, owing their very 
existence to ISTicaraguan generosity, give place to despair, and 
respect be changed into contempt, and friendship into hate. 

I had heard much in Leon of ancient monuments in the 
vicinity of Managua, and particularly of an ancient Indian 
temple cut in the solid rock, on the shore of a small lake, 
amongst the hills at the back of the city. I now learned that 
the lake was called Mhapa, and that upon the rocks which 
surrounded it were many figures, executed in red paint, con- 
cerning the origin of which nothing was known, but which 
were reported to be very ancient, "hechando antes la Con- 
quista," made before the Conquest. The next morning, 
having meanwhile procured a guide, we started for this lake. 
The path, for a league, led through a beautiful level coun- 
try, magnificently wooded, and relieved by open cultivated 
spaces, which were the hattos and huertas of the inhabitants 
of Managua. Nearly every one of these had a small cane 
hut, picturesquely situated amidst a group of palms or fruit 
trees, in its centre, reached by broad paths beneath archways 



ROAD TO NIHAPA. 389 

of plantains. Here tlie owners reside wlien weary of tlie 
town. We overtook hundreds of Indian laborers, with a tor- 
tilla and a bit of cheese in a little net-work bag thrown over 
one shoulder, pantaloons tucked up to the thighs, and carry- 
ing in the right hand, or resting in the hollow of the left 
arm, the eternal machete, the constant companion of every 
mozo, which he uses as an axe to clear the forest, a spade to 
dig the earth, a knife wherewith to divide his meat, and a 
weapon in case of attack. Passing the level country adja- 
cent to the city, we came to the base of the hills which inter- 
vene between the lake and the sea. Here, at every step, 
traces of volcanic action met our view, and the path became 
rough and crooked, winding amongst disrupted rocks, and 
over broad beds of lava. The latter extended down the side 
of the ridge, showing that anciently there had existed a 
crater somewhere above us, now concealed by the heavy 
forest. The eruptions, however, must have taken place 
many centuries ago, for the lava was disintegrated at the sur- 
face, and afforded a luxuriant foothold for vines, bushes, and 
trees. For this reason, although we knew that we had at- 
tained an elevated position, we found it impossible to see 
beyond the evergreen arches which bent above us, and which 
the rays of the sun failed to penetrate. The ascent was 
steep, and our progress slow, — 'So slow that a troop of indig- 
nant monkeys, swinging from branch to branch, grimacing, 
and threatening vehemently, was able to keep pace with us. 
We fired our pistols at them, and worked up their feelings to 
a pitch of excitement and rage, humiliatingly like the ebulli- 
tions of humanity. These amusing denizens of the forest, 
I frequently observed, seem annoyed by the presence of 
white men, and will fret and chatter at their approach, while 
the brown natives of the country may pass and repass, if not 
without attracting their notice, at least without provoking 
their anger. 
At the distance of about two leagues and a half from 



390 NICAEAGUA — ^NAEEATIYE. 

Managua, we readied what appeared to be a broad, broken 
table-land, the summit of the dividing range intervening be- 
tween the Lake and Ocean. We had not proceeded far, 
before we discovered a high conical peak, made up of scorise 
and ashes, and bare of trees, which had evidently been 
formed bj the matter thrown out from some neighboring 
volcanic vent. Here our guide turned aside at right angles 
to our path, and clearing the waj with his machete, in a 
few minutes led us to the edge of the ancient crater. It 
was an immense orifice, fully half a mile across, with pre- 
cipitous walls of black and riven rocks. At the bottom, 
motionless and yellow, like a plate of burnished brass, was 
the lake of Mhapa. The wall of the crater, upon the side 
where we stood, was higher than at any other point, and the 
brain almost reeled in looking over its ragged edge, down 
upon the Acheronian gulf below. Upon the other side, the 
guide assured us there was a path to the water, and there 
too were the rock temple, and " los piedras pintadas." So 
we fell back into our path again, and skirting along the base 
of the cone of scoriae to which I have referred, after a brisk 
ride of twenty minutes, came suddenly, and to our surprise, 
upon a collection of huts pertaining to a cattle estate. Here 
burst upon our sight an almost boundless view of moun- 
tain, lake, and forest. Behind us towered the cone of 
scoriae, covered with a soft green mantle of grass. Upon 
one side yawned the extinct crater with its waveless lake ; 
upon the other were ridges of lava, and ragged piles of tra- 
chytic rock, like masses of iron ; while in front, in the fore- 
ground, stood the picturesque cane huts of the vaqueros, 
clustered round with tall palms and the broad translucent 
leaves of the plantain. But beyond all, — beyond the moun- 
tain slopes and billowy hills, shrouded with never-fading 
forests, among which, like fleecy clouds of white and crimson 
reflected in a sea of green, rose the tops of flowering trees, — 
beyond these, flashing back the light of the morning sun 



LAKE NIHAPA. 391 

from its bosom, spread out the Lake of Managua, with its 
fairy islets and distant, dreamy shores ! 

"We left our horses at the huts, and followed a broad, well- 
beaten path which led to the point where the walls of the 
extinct crater were lowest. Here we found a narrow path 
between the rocks, barely wide enough to admit a horse to 
pass. It had in part been formed by man, probably before 
the Conquest, when, accordirig to the early chroniclers, even 
these hills were thronged by a happy and industrious people. 
The descent for a few hundred feet was very steep, between 
high walls of rock. It then turned short, and ran along the 
face of the chff, where fallen masses of stone afforded a foot- 
hold, and clinging trees curtained with vines concealed 
yawning depths and perilous steeps, which would otherwise 
have dizzied the head of the adventurous traveller. !N"ear 
the bottom the path widened, and at the water's brink we 
reached a kind of platform, edged with rocks, where the 
cattle from the haciendas came down to drink, and whence 
the vaqueros of the huts obtained water for their own use. 
Here a few trees found root, affording a welcome shelter 
from the rays of the sun ; for the breezes which fan the hill- 
sides never reach the surface of this almost buried lake. 

The walls of the ancient crater are everywhere precipit- 
ous, and at the lowest point probably not less than five hun- 
dred feet in height. Except at the precise spot where we 
stood, the lake washed the cliffs, which went down, sheer 
down, to unknown depths. We looked up, and the clouds 
as they swept over seemed to touch the trees which crowned 
the lofty edges of the precipice, over which the vines hung 
in green festoons. 

Upon the vertical face of the cliff were painted, in bright 
red, a great variety of figures. These were the "piedras 
pintadas" of which we had heard. Unfortunately, however, 
long exposure had obliterated nearly all of the paintings ; 
but most conspicuous amongst those still retaining their out- 



392 



NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 



lines perfect, or nearly so, was one -which, to me, had pecu- 
liar interest and significance. Upon the most prominent 
part of the cliff, some thirty or forty feet above our heads 
was painted the figure of a coiled, plumed, or feathered ser- 




LAKE NIHAPA — AN EXTINCT CRATEE. 



pent, called by the Indians "el Sol," the sun. Amongst 
the semi-civilized nations of America, from Mexico south- 
ward, as also among many nations of the old world, the 
serpent was a prominent religious symbol, beneath which 
was concealed the profoundest significance. Under many of 
its aspects it coincided with the sun, or was the symbol of 
the Supreme Divinity of the heathens, of which the sun was 
one of the most obvious emblems. In the instance of the 
painting before us, the plumed, sacred serpent of the abo- 




PAINTED BOOKS OF MANAGUA. 



PAINTED ROCKS. 395 

rigines was artfully depicted so as to combine both symbols 
in one. The figure was about three feet in diameter, and is 
accurately represented in the accompanying Engraving. 
Above it, and amongst some confused lines of partially ob- 
literated paintings, not represented in the sketch, was the 
figure of a human hand, — the red hand which haunted Mr, 
Stephens during all of his explorations amongst the monu- 
ments of Yucatan, where it was the symbol of the divinity 
Kab-ul, the Author of Life, and Godof the Working Hand," 
Upon some rocks a little to the right of the cliff upon 
which is this representation of the serpent, there were for- 
merly large paintings of the sun and moon, together, as our 
guide said, " con muchos geroglificos," with many hiero- 
glyphics. But the section upon which they were painted, 
was thrown down during the great earthquake of 1838. 
Parts of the figures can yet be traced upon some of the fallen 
fragments. Besides these figures, there were traces of hun- 
dreds of others, which, however, could not be satisfactorily 
made out. Some, we could discover, had been of regular 
outline, and from their relative proportions, I came to the 
conclusion that a certain degree of dependence had existed 
between them. One in particular attracted my attention, 
not less from its regularity than from the likeness which it 
sustains to certain figures in the painted historical and ritual 
MSS. of Mexico. It is designated by Fig. 2, in the same 
Plate with the figure of the serpent already described. 

Upon various detached rocks, lying next to the water, 

^ Those who feel interested in the subject of symboHsm as it existed 
amongst the American semi-civilized nations, or as connected with their 
rehgions systems, will find it illustrated to a certain extent, in my work 
entitled " The Serpent Symbol and the Worship of the Eeciprocal Prin- 
oiPLES OF Nature in America," in which particular prominence has been 
given to the worship of the serpent, so extensively diffused, and yet so 
enigmatical. These are subjects which it is not my design to discuss in a 
popular work like the present. 



396 NICABAGUA — NAEEATIVE. 

beneatli trailing vines, or but lialf revealed above fallen debris 
and vegetable accumulations, we discovered numerous otber 
outline figures, some exceedingly rude, representing men and 
animals, together with, many impressions of tbe human hand. 
Some of these are represented in the Plate. 

By carefully poising myself on the very edge of the 
narrow shelf or shore, I could discover, beyond an ad- 
vanced column of rock, the entrance to the so-called exca- 
vated temple of the ancient Indians. I saw at once that it 
was nothing more than a natural niche in the cliff; but yet 
to settle the matter conclusively, I stripped, and, not without 
some repugnance, swam out in the sulphurous looking lake, 
and around the intervening rocks, to the front of the open- 
ing. It was, as I had supposed, a natural arch, about thirty 
feet high, and ten or fifteen feet deep ; and seen from the 
opposite cliff, no doubt appeared to the superstitious Indians 
like the portal of a temple. The paintings of which they 
had spoken, were only discolorations produced by the fires 
which had once flamed up from -the abyss where now slum- 
bered the opposing element. Our guide told us that there 
were many other paintings on the cliffs, which could only be 
reached by means of a raft or boat. The next day M. re- 
turned with a canoe from Managua ; it was got down with 
great dif&culty, and in it we coasted the entire lake, but 
without discovering anything new or interesting. 

We were told that there were alligators in this lake, but 
we saw none, and still remain decidedly skeptical upon 
that point, notwithstanding the positive assertions of the 
vaqueros. That it abounded in fish, however, we could 
not fail to discover, for they swarmed along the edge of the 
water, and at the foot of the cliffs. This lake was no doubt 
anciently held in high veneration by the Indians ; for it is still 
regarded with a degree of superstitious fear by their descend- 
ants. Our guide told us of evil demons who dwelt within its 
depths, and vengefuUy dragged down the swimmers who 



SUPEKSTITIONS OF THE INDIANS. 397 

ventured out upon its gloomy waters. It was easy to im- 
agine that here the aboriginal devotees had made sacrifices 
to their mountain gods, the divinities who presided over the 
internal fires of the earth, or who ruled the waters. This half 
buried lake, with no perceptible opening, situated amidst 
melted rocks, on the summit of a mountain, with all of its 
accessories of dread and mystery, was well calculated to 
rouse the superstitious fears and secure the awe of a people 
distinguished above all others for a gloomy fancy, which in- 
vested nearly all of its creations with features of terror and 
severity, — creations whose first attribute was vengeance, and 
whose most acceptable sacrifices were palpitating hearts, torn 
from the breasts of human victims. 

It was past noon before we had finished our investigations 
at the lake, and we returned to the huts of the vaqueros 
weary, hot, and hungry. The women — blessed hearts the 
world over ! — swung hammocks for us in the shade, and we 
lay down in luxurious enjoyment of the magnificent view, 
while they ground the parched corn for the always welcome 
cup of tiste. And although when we came to leave, they 
charged us fully ten times as much for it as they would have 
required of their own countrymen, yet they had displayed so 
much alacrity in attending to our wants, that we sealed the 
payment with as hearty a " mil gracias," as if it had been a 
free offering. 

Our guide took us back by a new path, in order to show 
us what he called the Salt Lake. It was not an extinct 
crater, like that of Nihapa, but one of those singular, funnel- 
shaped depressions, so frequent in volcanic countries, and 
which seem to have been caused by the sinking of the earth. 
It was a gloomy looking place, with a greenish yellow pool 
at the bottom, the water of which, our guide said, was salt 
and bitter. The sides were steep, and covered with tangled 
vines and bushes, and we did not attempt to descend. 

There are other lakes, with musical Indian names, in the 



398 KICAEAGUA — JSTAREATIVE, 

vicinity of Managua, wMcli closely resemble tliat of Nitiapa, 
and owe their origin to similar causes. One of these occurs 
within a mile of the town, and is a favorite resort for the 
"lavanderas," or wash-women. It is reached by numerous 
paths, some broad and bordered with cactus hedges, and 
others winding through green coverts, where the stranger 
often comes -suddenly upon the startled Indian girl, whose 
unshod feet have worn the hard earth smooth, and whose 
hands have trained the vines into festooned arches above his 
head. There is but one descent to this lake ; which in the 
course of ages has been made broad and comparatively easy.. 
The shore is lined with large trees of magnificent fohage, 
beneath the shadows of which the" lavanderas" carry on their 
never ending operations. The water is cool and limpid ; and 
the lake itself more resembles some immense fountain, where 
bright streams might have their birth, rather than a fathom- 
less volcanic pool, so well has nature concealed beneath a robe 
of trees, and vines, and flowers, the evidences of ancient con- 
vulsions, rocks riven by earthquakes, or melted by fires 
fi-om the incandescent depths of the earth. 

It was late in the afternoon when we returned from Niha- 
pa ; but whatever might have been the pleasure or satisfac- 
tion of our visit, it went for nothing as compared with that 
which we experienced in finding a courier from Granada, 
bringing us letters and papers from the United States, three 
months later than any we had yet received. Dinner was 
forgotten in the eager haste to learn what the great world 
had been about, all the time we had been vegetating amongst 
orange and palm trees in this secluded corner of the world. 
The trivial items of news which the dweller in Gotham, sip- 
ping his coffee over the morning papers, would pass by with 
an idle glance, were to us momentous matters, and every para- 
graph of every column was religiously read, with a gusto 
which no one but the traveller similarly situated can appre- 
ciate. The newspaper is a luxury which the poorest day 



THREE MONTHS LATER FROM HOME. 399 

laborer in tlie United States may possess ; and the American 
would sooner deny liimself his tea and coffee, than the satis- 
faction of glancing over its columns, however dull, in the 
morning, or after the labors of the day are closed, in the 
evening. We missed many things, in Central America, 
which we had come to regard as essential to our comfort and 
happiness, but the newspaper most. Its place was very 
poorly supplied by the Padre Paul's little " Oorreo del 
Istmo," filled with government decrees, and published twice 
a month. It was in vain that we looked there for our daily 
home pabulum of "Late and Important by Telegraph" — 
" Terrible Catastrophe !" " Horrible Explosion, and Pro- 
bable Loss of Life !" served up in delectable fat type, and 
profusely seasoned with exclamation points. For three 
months we had not had our souls harrowed by the awful de- 
tails of murder, nor our hearts sickened by recitals of treache- 
ry, infamy, and crime ; knew nothing of what had followed 
the Astor riot, whether the struggling Hungarians were free 
or fallen. In fact the great drama of life, with its shifting 
scenery, and startling denouements, so far as we were con- 
cerned, had been suspended, — the world had gone on, on, 
and it seemed as if we alone had been left behind, — though 
living, yet practically dead and forgotten. No romance, 
with its plots and highly colored incidents, in which fancy 
and invention had exhausted itself, could compare in point 
of interest with the columns of these newspapers, redolent 
with the damp mustiness of a sea voyage, and the tobacco of 
the courier's maleta^ which we now perused in silence, by the 
aid of the tropical evening light, slowly swinging in our 
hammocks, beneath the corridor of Pedro Blanco's house, 
on the shores of the Lake of Managua ! 

Towards evening all the women of Managua go down to 
the lake shore, under the plausible pretext of filling their 
water jars. And when it became too dark to read, we fell into 
the movement, and followed by a train of youngsters, mostly 



400 NICARAGUA — NAREATIVE. 

naked, also went down to the shore, which was enlivened hy 
hundreds of merry groups — mozos bathing their horses out 
in the surf, and girls filling their water jars in the clear water 
beyond the breakers. At one point bushes were planted in 
the lake, like fish wears, between which women were sta- 
tioned with little scoop-nets, wherewith they laded out my- 
riads of little silvery fishes, from the size of a large needle 
to that of a shrimp, which they threw into kettle-shaped 
holes, scooped in the sand, where in the evening light, leap- 
ing up in their dying throes, they looked like a simmering 
mass of molten silver. These little fishes are called sardinas 
by the natives, and are cooked in omelets, constituting a very 
excellent dish, and one which I never failed to order when- 
ever I visited Managua. The first travellers in Nicaragua 
mention this novel fishery as then practised by the aborigines, 
and it has remained unchanged to the present hour. 

In returning through a bye street to our own house, we 
observed, within the open door of a rude cane hut, what we 
first took to be a large painting, but which upon examination 
proved to be a carving in wood. It was cut in high relief, 
and represented, nearly of the size of life, a mounted cavalier, 
dressed and armed after the style of the fifteenth century, hav- 
ing in one hand a cross and in the other a sword. We were 
struck with the spirit and execution of the carving, which 
filled one entire side of the hut, and were told that it was a 
representation of Hernando Cortez, the conqueror of Mexico. 
The people in whose possession it then was knew nothing oi 
its history, beyond that it had been in the hands of their 
family for rnore than seventy years. I subsequently inquired 
of the "sabios" or sages of Managua about the figure, but 
they could give me no information, except that it was very 
ancient, and, according to tradition, represented Cortez. 
Don Pedro Blanco and some others suggested that it might 
have been intended for Santiago, the patron saint of Managua, 
but gave no good reason for their conjecture. That it is very 



AITCIENT CARVING. 



401 



ancient appears from a variety of circumstances, and from 
none more clearly than the now half-obliterated paintings 




ANCIENT CARVING IN WOOD; MANAGUA. 

which fill the panel around the figure. These, in style of 

execution, correspond entirely with the paintings made by 

the Indians immediately subsequent to the Conquest, and 

26 



402 



NIOAEAGTJA— KABRATIVE, 



after tlieir first acquaintance witli the whites. They repre- 
sent disembarkations, and battles between mounted, bearded 
white men and naked Indians armed after their primitive 
fashion. Dogs too, are represented participating in these 
encounters, — ^mute witnesses to those atrocities which every- 
where attended the Spanish arms in America, and to which 
all the brilliancy of the achievements of Cortez, Alvarado, 
Cordova, or Pizarro, can never blind the impartial historian. 
Notwithstanding the popular tradition, I am disposed to 
regard the figure as a representation not of Cortez, but of 
Cordova, the conqueror of Nicaragua, or its first Governor, 
Pedro Arias de Avila ; perhaps of that daring Contreras who 
meditated the vast design of separating all America from the 
crown of Spain. 

A number of idols, obtained from Momotombita and other 
places, have been brought to 
Managua, from time to time, 
by the Indians, and plant 
at the corners of the stree 
Nearly all of them, howevv^o., 
are small, and have been so 
much defaced as to possess 
little interest. But one par- 
ticularly arrest- 




ed my attention. 
It is set at one 
of the corners of 
a house, front- 
ing on the little plaza of San 
Juan, and is very well represent- 
ed in the accompanying engraving. 
It projects about four feet above the 

ground, and pro- . 

bably extends ^ 



IDOL AT MANAGUA, 



POPULATION OF MAJSTAGUA. 403 

two or three feet below. In common witli all others obtained 
from Momotombita, it is black basalt. 

.' The town of Managua now contains about ten or twelve 
thousand inhabitants, who live in the simplest manner possi- 
ble, manufacturing barely enough to supply their limited 
wants, and carrying on but little trade. The region around 
is very fertile, and capable of sustaining a large population. 
The hill-slopes, between the lake and the sea, are well adapted 
for the cultivation of coffee ; and the quality of that which is 
produced from the few estates existing there, is regarded as 
superior to the coffee of Costa Eica, which ranks next only 
to the best Mocha. This valuable staple might be produced 
here to any extent, and at comparatively little cost ; but the 
condition of the country, and the general lack of enterprise 
amongst the people, have prevented attention to this, as well 
as every other branch of industry or source of wealth. 
There is no part of Nicaragua which, from its position, 
beauty, salubrity, and capacity for production, surpasses the 
district around Managua;^ and here, it seems to me, is the 
most favorable point for the commencement of any system 
of colonization from the United States or from Europe. 

This portion of the country was densely populated in 
ancient times. After the expedition of Cordova, it was an- 
nounced in Spain, that Managua was a city " nine miles 
long ;" and this report of its extent and vast population, 
amongst other things, induced Oviedo to visit the country. 
He seems to have been disappointed in respect to its size, ' 



' Capt. Belcher, -who was here in 1838, says of Managua, that " it suf- 
fered severely in the late cholera visitation ; losing six hundred out of 
the population of twelve thousand. Of this number it is rather remark- 
able that females between the ages of fifteen and twenty-five, and prin- 
cipally newly married, were the predominant victims. G-enerally this 
place is considered as peculiarly healthy, the average deaths seldom ex- 
ceeding one per cent." — Voyage round the World, vol. i. p. 172. 



404 NIOAEAGUA — ^NAERATIVE. 

and denounces the reports wMct. had been made in Spain, 
as gross exaggerations. He nevertheless adds : 

" It was inhabited by Ohorotegans, and, to tell the truth, it was a 
beautiful and populous village, but so far from forming a city, was com- 
posed of isolated houses, at considerable distance from each other. Before 
it had been destroyed by war, it covered a great space, and resembled 
the villages to be seen in the valley of Alva, in Biscay, in GaUicia, among 
the mountains and valleys of Ibarra, where all the houses are in view ot 
each other and occupy considerable room. This village of Managua 
extends in a Mne along the lake ; but so far from having three leagues 
of extent, it scarcely has one. However, at the time of its prosperity, it 
was the finest place of the province, and contained 40,000 inhabitants, of 
which 10,000 were archers, or shngers. But when I visited it, six years 
after the Conquest, it was the most completely abandoned and desolate 
place of the government. It now contains 10,000 souls, of which 600 
are archers. On the opposite side of the lake, is the domain of the 
Cazique, Tipitapa, which has an extent of six leagues, and 6,000 inhab- 
itants, of which 800 are archers. 

" In conclusion, from what I have heard from those who have visited 
this country from the times of Gil Gonzalez Davila to those of Captain 
Francisco Hernandez, the country was so populous that the inhabitants 
may be said to have fairly swarmed. But this is not the place to speak 
of the devastation of the country and the massacre of so many Indians." 

From Managua we proposed to visit the Rio Tipitapa, or 
Panaloja, the stream which connects the lake of Managua 
with that of Nicaragua, and which, from the constant refer- 
ences made to it, in all speculations concerning the opening 
of a canal, has been invested with peculiar interest. We 
accordingly engaged Yictorino, our patron in the expedition 
to Momotombita, to take us by water to the outlet of the 
lake, a distance of twenty or twenty -five miles. In order to 
have the entire day, or the greater part of it, to devote to our 
investigations at Tipitapa, we directed Yictorino to be in 
readiness to start as early as two o'clock the next morning, 
thinking, from our past experience in native tardiness, that 
he would probably arrive at about four or five. But what 



SUNEISE ON LAKE MANAGUA. 405 

was our liorror, when lie aroused us in tlie early stages of our 
Jirst doze (for we liad gone to bed late), witli the information 
that all was ready ! It was just half-past one ; and although 
I suspected that this early call was one of Yictorino's practi- 
cal jokes, yet we had been too precise in our directions to have 
any good cause of complaint against him. So we dressed 
ourselves silently, and followed the patron to the shore of 
the lake. Here we found everything in readiness, and got 
off, for the first time, at the appointed hour. 

As I passed through the corridor, I had caught up a 
blanket, with a vague idea of getting a nap in the boat, and 
after we pushed off, wrapped myself in it with a chuckle, and 
lay down to sleep. But the blanket was saturated with 
fleas ; sleep departed, and I was exercised in a most lively 
manner, for the rest of the night. The men rowed in silence, 
and the water of the lake looked black and forbidding under 
the sable sky. It was with a feeling of relief, therefore, that 
I discerned the tintings of morning, in the east. First, a 
faint light revealed the outlines of the rugged mountains of 
Chontales and Segovia, followed by a yellow, then a rosy 
tinge, so faint that it might have been a mere fancy of the 
spectator ; then it deepened, and the clouds, with their glow- 
ing edges, and purple folds, disclosed their rich, deep masses 
above the rim of the horizon, while the lake flung back 
tremulously from its quivering bosom the reflected radiance 
of the sky. Brighter and brighter, its rays shooting upwards 
to the empyrean, and glowing on the summits of the volcanoes, 
higher and higher, came up the monarch sun, until rising 
above the horizon, he shone forth on the queenly earth, its 
emerald robes sparkling with dew-drops, and gemmed with 
flowers. 

Our men had improved the time, and at sunrise we found 
ourselves within six or eight miles of the outlet, moving 
along half a nule distant from a low and densely wooded 



406 NICARAGUA — ^NAERATIVE. 

store. I thrust a pole over the side, and found that there 
was less than a fathom of water, with a soft muddy bottom. 
At various places I observed a slight bubbling on the surface 
of the lake, and a strong smell of sulphurous or mephitic 
gases ; and in others rose little columns of vapor, indicating 
the presence of hot springs at the bottom. 

We finally reached what appeared to be a narrow estuary 
of the lake, extending between two low bars, covered with 
reeds, and literally alive with cranes and other water fowls. 
The boat was directed into it, but it was so shallow that the 
mud rose to the surface with every stroke of the oars. I 
found, upon sounding, only two or three feet of water, with 
about an equal depth of soft gray mud— the dwelling-place 
of numerous alligators. "We proceeded up this estuary for 
three or four hundred yards, the water every moment becom- 
ing shallower, until finally we stuck fast in the fetid mire. 
The crew leaped overboard and sunk at once to their arm- 
pits in the slime. They nevertheless pushed us some dis- 
tance nearer the shore, and then, when the boat could be 
moved no further, we mounted on their shoulders and were 
carried to the land. We found the shore low, but gravelly, 
and covered with grass and bushes. A clear little stream of 
tepid water flowed at our feet, and at intervals all around us 
rose columns of vapor from thermal springs. -We advanced 
a little further to what appeared to be a bank, covered with 
trees, and then discovered for the first time that the estero 
extended down a broad and rocky but shallow channel, 
which had anciently been the bed of the stream connecting 
the two lakes. No water flowed through it now, although 
there were pools here and there in the depressions of the 
rock, supplied with water from springs, or from the rains. 
Clumps of bushes were growing in the dry channel, and 
amongst them cattle and mules were grazing. I can readily 
believe that anciently, during the wet seasons, a small quan- 



VILLAGE OF TIPITAPA. 407 

tity of water found its way througli tliis channel, and over the 
falls, a mile below ; but nothing is more evident than that no 
considerable body of water ever flowed here. 

But if we were disappointed in the so-called outlet of the 
lake, our disappointment was more than compensated by the 
magnificent view which was afforded, from this point, of the 
great volcano of Momotombo, with its background of volcanic 
peaks, constituting the chain of the Maribios, and terminating 
with the tall Viejo, dim and blue in the distance. It seemed 
to rise from the bosom of the mirror-like lake, a giant guide 
to direct future navies across the continent from sea to sea. 
I could not help picturing the black hulls of great steamers 
trailing their smoky plumes at its base, and the white, cloud- 
like sails of majestic Indiamen, relieved against the purple 
of its arid sides. 

After following along the bank of the vanished river for a 
short distance, we came to a path, by which the Brazil wood 
collected on the shores of the lake is carted to Pasquiel, the 
first and nearest landing point on lake Nicaragua. A rapid 
walk of a mile brought us to the village of Tipitapa, a mis- 
erable little place, of some two or three hundred inhabitants, 
with a tumble-down church or two, and a drove of cattle in 
quiet possession of the plaza. We found our way, with little 
trouble, to the house of the principal oflS.cer, — I have forgot, 
ten his rank, — a disagreeable fellow, who made himself unne- 
cessarily offensive by one or two cross-grained attempts at be- 
ing civil. He hadn't the decency to offer us breakfast ; but 
that gave us little concern, for Ben had come supplied for con- 
tingencies, and had, moreover, a happy knack of pressing into 
his service any utensils and other articles of use which might 
come to hand. He despatched Yictorino to the cura's for 
some milk, and helped himself to plantains from the garden. 
And after half an hour, which we had spent in drumming up 
horses, he announced a breakfast, if not fit for a prince, at 
any rate far from unacceptable to men who had started on 



40 8 NIC AEAGUA — NARRATIVE. 

an exploring expedition at two o'clock in tlie morning. 
Through the aid of the cura, who was a fine looking man, 
with rather a singular expression, nevertheless, for a padre, 
we got horses for our ride to Pasquiel ; and the cura, accom- 
panied bj a young darkey who was qualifying himself for 
the church, volunteered to accompany us. We had brought 
no saddles, and were obliged to put up with " albardos" and 
wooden stirrups. Albardos were not in existence in Job's 
day ; had they been, he would have wished his enemy to ride 
on an albardo, rather than write a book. A savage critique 
in the Jerusalem Quarterly could not have " used up" Job's 
enemies more effectually than an " albardo" and a hard trotter. 
After riding for half a mile through deserted fields, now 
overgrown with tall, rank weeds, we came once more to the 
channel or river-bed, at a place called the Salto or falls. Here 
the rock, which appears to underlie the whole region, is en- 
tirely exposed, worn into basins and fantastic pot-holes by 
the water. It seems to be a calcareous or volcanic breccia, 
and though not hard, is solid. Through this the hot springs 
find their way to the surface. The Salto is a steep ledge 
of this rock, from twelve to fifteen feet in height, extending 
entirely across the ancient channel, which is here not less 
than two hundred yards broad. Although it was now the 
middle of the rainy season, not a drop of water flowed over 
it. A little distance below the Salto is a stone bridge, the 
second one which I had seen in the country, and the only 
one in actual use. At the foot of its western buttress, upon 
the lower side, I observed a column of vapor, and descend- 
ing, found that it proceeded from a copious hot spring, from 
which flows a considerable stream of scalding water. It has 
formed a thick deposit upon the rocks and stones around it, 
the apparent constituents of which were carbonate of lime, 
sulphur, and sulphate of copper ; the taste of the water is not 
unpleasant, and, as observed by Capt. Belcher, is esteemed a 
sovereign remedy, "if taken by the advice of the padre !" 



PEACTICAL COMMUNISM. 409 

From tlie bridge we rode along the eastern bank of the 
ancient channel, which below the falls becomes deeper and 
narrower, filled with detached and water-worn rocks, with 
here and there large pools of still water. "We found the 
country level, with a soil of exceeding fertility, and dotted 
over with cattle estates. It is not densely wooded, but has 
many open glades, covered with grass, and affording rich 
pasturage. Here Nicaragua wood, or Brazil wood, is found 
in greatest abundance, and contributes materially to the value 
of the land. It is a tree which seems to require a rich, 
moist soil, and the absence of overshadowing trees of other 
varieties. Quantities of the wood, already cut and prepared 
for exportation, were scattered here and there over the 
savannahs. A ride of three miles brought us to the cattle 
estate of Pasquiel, one of the largest and most valuable in 
the country, belonging to our friend Don Frederico Derby- 
shire, of Granada. We were well received by his superintend- 
ent, who had seen us in Grranada, upon our first arrival. The 
buildings on the estate consisted of two immense roofs, 
supported on posts, entirely open at the sides, and placed in 
the centre of a kind of stockade of posts. In a corner of 
one of these sheds, a number of poles set on end and withed 
together, fenced off a little space for the beds of the mayor- 
domo and his spouse. Ailing calves, independent pigs, and 
multitudinous chickens shared the remainder of the accommo- 
dations, on terms of perfect equality and harmony with the 
children of the superintendent. Some large troughs, sup- 
ported on posts, to receive the milk in manufacturing cheese, 
and a couple of rude presses for use in the same manufac- 
ture, also mounted on stilts, completed the furniture of the 
establishment. There was enough of novelty in all this, but 
nothing particularly attractive; and as I suspected there 
might be a "smart chance" of fleas in the sand under the 
roofe, I declined dismounting, but rode beneath the shade of 
a gigantic tree, called the mata-palo, or kill tree. It has 



410 NICAEAGUA — NARRATIVE. 

great vigor, and preserves a dense green foliage during the 
dry season, wlien most other trees become seared. It starts 
as a kind of vine, and clasps itself around the first tree 
which it can reach ; and as it grows with astonishing rapid- 
ity, in a few years it entirely destroys the tree which 
raised it from the ground, and occupies its place. It does 
not run up to any considerable height, but extends its 
branches laterally to a great distance, and like the banyan 
tree, sends down new trunks to the ground, which in their 
turn promote its vigor and its growth. These trunks come 
down with their roots ready formed, and look like a number 
of exceedingly bad brooms suspended from the principal 
limbs. 

From the houses of the estate to the landing of Pasquiel 
there is a broad open road. The distance is little upwards 
of a mile. This landing is at the head of an estuary running 
up from the north-western extremity of Lake Nicaragua, in 
the direction of Lake Managua, and which is about fourteen 
miles in length. It is part of what is called the Eio Tipi- 
tapa, but is, in fact, the Bstero de Pasquiel, or de Panaloya. 
The actual distance between the two lakes is therefore but 
little over four miles. The landing of Pasquiel is simply an 
open space on the bank of the Estero ; there was neither 
house nor shed, nor sign of humanity, except several large 
piles of Brazil wood, and the ashes left by the sailors' fires. 
The Estero, at this point, is about one hundred yards broad, 
and six feet deep. This is, in fact, about its average depth ; 
although in some places lower down, I was informed by the 
boatmen, it is as much as twelve and fourteen feet in depth. 

There was very little to see ; and so, after sitting on the 
shore for an hour, we started on our return, following a path 
which led along the bank of the Estero, with a view of deter- 
mining how much higher it extended. We found that it 
came to an end a short distance above the landing, as did 
also our path. But we had started to go through, and per- 



CONNECTION BETWEEN THE LAKES. 4:11 

sisted in our purpose. Between cutting, and stooping, dis- 
mounting and making a multitude of evolutions, we finally 
succeeded in clearing the forest, well scratched and smarting 
from rough contact with thorny bushes and prickly vines — 
for nearly every petty bush and contemptible vine in Central 
America is armed with thorns, great or small. 

Stopping for a few moments at a cattle hacienda, where we 
left the cura making love to the daughter of the mayor domo, 
we returned to Tipitapa. Our gloomy host of the morning 
had mustered up a little good humor. The secret of his 
civility, however, came out before we left ; he wanted a 
guitar, a guitar with four strings, a guitar withal worth seven 
dollars ; and expected us to send him one of that description 
from the United States, which we, of course, promised to do. 
whereupon, in the fullness of his heart, he ordered his servant 
to assist Ben in preparing dinner. 

At three o'clock, we had reembarked, and with a fair 
wind, were soon speeding our way to Managua, where we 
landed in the edge of the evening, well wearied with our 
day's excursion. 

In returning, I had sounded the lake, and found the entire 
bay in front of Managua exceedingly shallow. Por nearly 
a mile out it was only about a fathom in depth ; and for full 
two miles farther it preserved a uniform depth of about two 
fathoms. That part nearest the old outlet of Tipitapa was also 
shallow, and for a mile and upwards from the shore, nowhere 
exceeded a fathom and a half in depth. The middle portions 
of the lake, however, are represented to be very deep. The 
fall statement of these facts and of a variety of others, bearing 
upon the question of a canal. route, are reserved for another 
and more appropriate place, when .1 come to speak specifically 
of the canal project. It is only necessary to add here, that 
the grossest ignorance prevails as to the dependence between 
the two lakes of Nicaragua and Managua, and the nature of 
the communication one with the other. The publications of 



il2 NICAEAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 

the Britisli Society for tlie Diffusion of Useful 'Knowledge 
speak of Lake Nicaragua as flowing into Lake Managua ; 
and nearly all geographical works refer to the river Tipitapa, 
or Panaloya, as a considerable stream, navigable were it not 
for the Salto or falls, which is almost uniformly represented 
to be nearer Lake Nicaragua than to Lake Managua. There 
is also an error prevalent amongst the natives of the country, 
which has been inconsiderately adopted by some recent 
observers, that the lake of Managua has formed a subterra- 
nean outlet, or has subsided, from some unexplained cause, 
within the past fifteen or twenty years. There is, however, 
little or no reason for supposing that any material or percep- 
tible change has taken place in the level of the lake, or any 
diminution in its volume, since the period of the Conquest. 
The early explorers represented the two lakes as entirely 
disconnected; and Oviedo, although combatting this idea, 
nevertheless describes the communication to be very nearly 
what it now is. He says that in summer little water flows 
through the channel, and speaks of the "canal," by which is 
undoubtedly meant the Estero of Panaloya, as only breast 
deep. That the level of the lake changes somewhat with the 
different seasons, I can myself bear witness. The evaporation 
on the twelve hundred square miles of surface which this 
lake presents, beneath a tropical sun, is nevertheless quite 
sufficient to account for the absence of water at Tipitapa, 
without entertaining the hypothesis of a subterranean outlet. 
A few days after, I was suddenly called to return to Leon, 
where I was detained by official business until the close of 
November. The events which transpired in the interval do 
not fall within the scope of my Narrative, and I shall conse- 
quently pass them by without remark. 



CHAPTER XVI. 

SECOND ANTIQUARIAN EXPEDITION — THE SHORES OF LAKE MANAGUA ONCE 
MORE — MATEARAS — DON HENRIQUe's COMADEE — AM ENGAGED AS GOD 
FATHER — ^AN AMAZON — SANTA MARIA DE BUENA VISTA — A " CHARACTER " 
IN PETTICOATS — " LA NEGRITA, T LA BLANQUITA " — PURCHASE OF BUENA 
VISTA — A YANKEE IDEA IN A NICARAGUAN HEAD — HINTS FOR SPECULATORS 
^MUCHACHO VS. BURRO EQUESTRIAN INTOXICATION — ANOTHER APOSTRO- 
PHE I — PESCADORS — "hay NO MAS," AND " ESTA AQUI," AS MEASURES 
OF DISTANCE — ^MANAGUA — THE " MAL PAIS," NINDIRI, AND MASAYA — SOME- 
THING COOL — A POMPOUS ALCALDE — HOW TO ARREST CONSPIRATORS — 
FLOWERS OF THE PALM DESCENT TO THE LAKE MEMORIALS OF CATAS- 
TROPHES — LAS AGUADORAS — NEW MODE OF SOUNDING DEPTHS — ILL-BRED 
MONKEYS — TRADITIONAL PRACTICES — OVIEDO's ACCOUNT OF THE LAKE IN 
1529 — SARDINES — THE PLAZA ON MARKET NIGHT — A YANKEE CLOCK — 
SOMETHING COOLER — A STATE BEDROOM FOR A MINISTER — ANCIENT CHURCH 
— FILLING OUT A VOCABULARY — " QUEBRADA DE INSCRIPCIONES " — SCULP- 
TURED rocks; THEIR CHARACTER — ANCIENT EXCAVATIONS IN THE ROCK — 
" EL BANC " — PAINTED ROCKS OF SANTA CATRINA — NIGHT RIDE TO GRANA- 
DA — THE LAGUNA DE SALINAS BY MOONLIGHT — GRANADA IN PEACE — A 

QUERY TOUCHING HUMAN HAPPINESS NEW QUARTERS, AND OLD FRIENDS 

AN AMERICAN SAILOR — HIS ADVENTURES — " WIN OR DIE " — A HAPPY SEQUEL. 

The drj season liad now fairly commenced; for two 
weeks no rain had fallen on tlie plains of Leon, except an 
occasional " aguac^ro " wHcli sprinkled out its brief exist- 
ence under the lee of the volcanoes. The circumstances 



414 NICAEAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 

were now favorable for carrying out my long clierislied pur- 
pose of again visiting Granada, and from thence prosecuting 
my investigations of tlie antiquities reported to exist in its 
vicinity, and in tlie islands of Lake Nicaragua, Locking up 
tlie main wing of my house, and handing over my keys to 
Padre Cartine for safe keeping, with no other companions 
than M. and my servant, I set out on the expedition. 

It was just daybreak when we rode through the suburb 
of Guadaloupe, but already the Indians were yoking their 
oxen and preparing for their day's work. Here we overtook 
Don Felipe Jauregui, Commissioner of Honduras, who had 
started for Costa Eica, and who felicitated himself greatly 
on having our company during part of his journey. But 
Don Felipe had a servant with the mules and a led horse for 
emergencies, and valued time at its current rate in Central 
America, where it never rules at a premium. He had a 
long journey before him, and meant to take it easily. So, 
before we had gone a league, after trying in vain to seduce 
his horse into a pace, I took advantage of a little bend in 
the road to give him the slip, nor did I see anything more 
of him untU the next day, in the evening, when he overtook 
us at the town of Masaya. 

I never wearied of the ride to Pueblo Nuevo, and thence 
along the shores of Managua to Matearas; nor would the 
reader weary of its repeated description, could my pen truly 
portray its charms. The afternoon was still, and the beach, 
upon which the tiny waves toyed with a low, musical 
murmur, was cool in the broad shadows of the cliffs which 
bordered it upon the west, and crowned with verdure, shut 
off the rays of the evening sun. My old friends, the long- 
legged cranes, were there, distant and grave as usual, and 
clearly in bad humor at these repeated intrusions. And 
when we dismounted and took a bath in the lake, they 
audibly expressed their dissatisfaction, and marched off a 
few rods, where they held an indignation meeting, m company 



MATEARAS, ONCE MORE. 415 

with, a rabble of water-hens and disreputable "zopolotes." 
I had great contempt for them ever after that. 

We reached Matearas at sunset, and " put up" at th.e liouse 
of Don Henrique's pet. She inquired about our friend, and 
felt "very desolate," she said, because he had not sent her 
some pills he had promised — for be it known, every foreigner 
in Central America is more or less a "medico." The little 
naked fellow for whom Don Henrique had stood sponsor, 
was tumbling about the floor, engaged in a pretty even con- 
test with two pigs and three chickens, about a piece of tor- 
tilla. The pigs appeared most afflicted, and squealed in a 
distressful way because of their ill success. Our little hostess 
did not take the trouble to interfere, but gave " aid and com- 
fort" to her boy, by keeping off a matronly porker, eAddently 
deeply interested, which stood looking in at the door- way. 
,1 could not help laughing at the group, but my merriment 
puzzled the poor woman exceedingly. She looked at me 
inquiringly, blushed, and drew forward a large reboso, which 
was thrown loosely over ber shoulders, so as to conceal her 
figure. I saw her mistake at once, and hastened to correct it 
in the most direct manner, for in these countries it is the 
only way of preserving a good understanding. A tear glis- 
tened in her eye, while a smile lit up her face, as she replied 
in a touching tone, "A thousand thanks, Senor; we are very 
poor people, and cannot afford to be laughed at." She told 
me with the greatest frankness bow soon another god-father 
would be wanted, and as she had had a Frenchman for the 
first, she should " so like" to have an American for the second. 
I assured her that I should be happy to serve, if I could 
make it convenient to be there at the proper time. A few 
minutes afterwards, I overheard her telling the gossiping 
female neighbors who had " dropped in," that the thing was 
all settled, " El Ministro del Norte" was to be sponsor for 
the prospective immortal, " seguro ! seguro !" sure ! sure ! 
How proudly the little woman moved about the rest of the 



416 NICARAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 

evening ! Slie superintended all tlie details of supper, and 
when 1 went to led on the tahle^ wonld liave substituted h.er 
pillow, the only one in the house, for my saddle, had I per- 
mitted her. That table! There is but one thing harder 
under the sun, and that is Don Pedro Blanco's bed of hide ! 

After this intimation, I need not add that I wag not exactly 
'' lapped in Elysium" during the night. It was not so much 
the fault of the table, as of some arrieros, stopping at the 
hut over the way, who had got together the belles of the 
village, and with the aid of aguardiente, a guitar, and two 
tallow candles, were making a night of it. I sat up several 
times to look at them through the little square window over 
the table. Yarious groups of dancers were whirling around 
a man playing the guitar, a gay mestizo with a red sash 
around his waist and his hat set jauntily on one side, who 
performed with all the vigor of "the bones," in the Operas. 
Ethiopiennes^ and from the shouts of laughter which followed 
some of the hits, evidently improvising the song with which 
he accompanied the music. Some of these hits, I infer, were 
personal, for suddenly a strapping yellow girl, in a dashing 
flounce, flung herself out of her partner's arms, and seizing 
the performer's hat, flung it under her feet. The next 
instant she had him by the hair ; — there was a tustle, a min- 
gled sound of laughter, supplication, and abuse, in the midst 
of which the table was upset, and the lights extinguished. I 
flattered myself this was the final " grand tableau." Delusive 
hope ! Half an hour of violent discussion ensued, in which 
the voice of the Amazon was highest, and then the entente 
cordiale seemed restored. Looking out of the window, I saw 
the man of the guitar in his former place, and everything 
going on as before. I presume, however, that the improvisoi- 
was now more respectful in his allusions. 

We left before sunrise the next morning, deferring break- 
fast until our arrival at Managua, twenty miles distant. I 
rode ahead, and allowed my horse to take his own course. 



SANTA MARIA DE BUENA VISTA. 417 

Upon reacliing tlie volcanic ridge wliicli I have mentioned 
as projecting into tlie lake, wliere the mule road diverges from 
the round-about camina real, he entered the wrong path, and 
we went on for half an hour before discovering the error. 
I then determined to push ahead, whatsoever the conse- 
quences. We soon came to a clearing, and a little beyond, 
to a number of huts, standing upon the very brow of the 
mountain, and looking out upon the lake, and beyond its 
shores, to the hills of Chontales. I involuntarily spurred my 
horse forward. It was the broadest, most luxuriant view 
upon which my eye had ever rested. That from Laurel Hill, 
descending the AUeghanies, is alone comparable to it, but 
lacks the grand and essential elements of lakes, volcanoes, and 
tropical verdure. The morning breeze swept fresh and ex- 
hilarating past us, and our very horses lifted their heads, and 
with expanded nostrils and ears thrown forward, seemed to 
drink in the cool air, and to enjoy the surprise and the scene 
not less than ourselves. 

We were several times saluted with "buenas mananas 
caballeros !" by a short, merry -faced old lady, the mistress of 
the huts, before we had the gallantry to turn from the scene 
to the senora. Two or three naked boys, with bows and 
arrows and cerbatanas or blowing-tubes, stood beside her, 
and a couple of grown girls peeped slyly at us from behind 
the broken door of the principal hut. The old lady was a 
sympathetic body, and her face was really brilliant with ani- 
mation, as she exclaimed "buena vista, caballeros!" prolong- 
ing the " vees-ta," as she swept her hand in the direction of 
the distant horizon. This "hatto," she said, was called 
" Santa Maria de Buena Yista," and she was the mistress. 
These, she added, are my ninos, boys, and these " malditas," 
pointing to the girls who dodged out of sight, are my '■^hijas 
grandest'' my big girls. " Yenga!" come here, she ejaculated; 
but the girls wouldn't come, whereupon the old lady went 
into the house and dragged them out. One was fair, with 

27 



418 NICARAGUA — JSTARRATIVE. 

liglit hair and blue eyes, while the other, like her mother, 
was a brunette, her dark eyes, half shadowed by her long 
curling hair, fairly dancing with suppressed mischief. I had 
long before ceased to be surprised at wide differences of color 
and features in the same family ; but the contrast here was so 
striking that I could not help exclaiming interrogatively 
^^amhasT^ oothf "Si!" she answered, with emphasis; "esta 
negrita," this darkey, is my husband's, "y esta blanquita es 
una Francescita !" and this white one is French ! The infer- 
ence from this naive confession was so obvious a reflection on 
the old lady's honor, that I thought it but decent not to 
understand it, and modestly suggested, " Ah si, su compadre 
fue Frances," ah yes, her god-father was French! "JSTo, su 
padre — padre !" no, her father, father, interrupted the matron, 
with energy ; "I was young once," she added, after a pause,, 
and with a toss of the head, which made me repent my ill- 
timed suggestion. Ah ! the perfidious Frenchman who had 
abused the hospitalities of "Santa Maria de Buena Vista I" 
The wretch had evidently a taste for the picturesque. 

The old lady inquired how I liked the place ; I was, of 
course, delighted. " Yery well," said she, buy it;" and she 
went on to enumerate its advantages, making the most of the 
view. I suggested that there was no water ; but that she 
said was of slight importance, it was only a mile to the lake 
— she had got water there for fourteen years, and there was 
plenty of it, as we could see. Besides, I could have either 
one of her girls to bring it for me ; hoth if I liked ; and all 
for a hundred dollars ! But the concluding argument con- 
founded me ; she communicated it in a whisper. The ISTorte 
Americanos were building a canal, and in a few months, 
Buena Vista would be worth four times the money ! I took 
off my hat incontinently, and only regretted that the old 
lady had no lithographic press, wherewith to convert Buena 
Vista into town lots ! I promised to consider the proposition 
— particularly so far as it related to the "negrita," and the 



THE LAKE SHORE. 419 

" blanquita," botli of wliom, I wislied to have it distinctly 
"imderstood, were to be included, because it was more than 
one ought to do, to bring all the water from the lake. The 
old lady admitted the force of the argument, and gravely 
assented. The final arrangement was deferred until my 
return. One of the boys pointed out the path, down the face 
of the mountain to the lake ; we had only to follow the shore, 
he said, to reach Managua. I asked how far it was, — " hay 
no mas !" " there is no more, it is only a step," he replied, and 
we left him in high spirits, thinking we had really discovered 
a short cut, instead of having gone two leagues out of our 
way. The path to the edge of the lake was steep, but well- 
worn, and we descended without much dif&culty. The beach 
was broad and smooth, and on a little knoll, covered with 
grass, and arched with trees, was the place where the women 
of Buena Vista did their washing. The huts, as we looked 
up, seemed perched on the edge of a precipice, and with the 
palms that surrounded them, stood out in sharp relief against 
the sky. Cattle from the pasturage grounds were loitering 
in the edge of the water ; there was a donkey, grave but 
stubborn, which a half-grown boy was trying to drive some- 
where, but which not only wouldn't go, but kicked viciously 
when the muchacho approached. The boy seemed almost 
ready to cry with vexation, and begged I would shoot the 
obstinate brute, which he denounced, not only as " sin 
verguenza," but as a great many other things, which would 
hardly bear translating. We left him stoning the "burro," 
at point blank distance, just out of the range of his heels ; 
and if neither one has given in, they may be there still. 

The shore was hard and smooth, and our horses moved 
along, the waves dashing to their fetlocks, with an elastic 
and nervous action, in which the merest clod must have 
sympathized. Occasionally arching their necks, and lifting 
up their heads, their whinny was hke the blast of a trumpet ! 
Ah, my noble gray — with thy clear eye, expanded nostrils, 



420 . NICARAGUA — NTARRATIVE. 

taper ears, and tlie veins swelling Ml on tlijarcLing neck ! — 
son of Arabian sires ! hast tlLon forgotten that morning's ride 
on the shores of Managua ? Wine may quicken the blood 
with an unnatural, evanescent flow ; the magic hakshish 
stupifj the frame, and for the moment make the tense 
nerves vibrate to the melodies of the spirit world, — but give 
me a free rein, and the willing back of my Arab gray, and 
the full, expanding, elevating intoxication of a tropical 
morning ! 

On, on, we seemed to float along the edge of the lake. 
By-and-by the hills came down like barriers to the water. 
Here we scrambled for awhile amongst rough rocks, cutting 
vines and branches right and left with our swords, and emerged 
on the shore of a little bay. Two men, up to their arm-pits 
in the water, were throwing a cast-net near the rocks, while 
a third trailed after him what appeared to be a long branch 
of the palm tree, but which was a cord, whereon the fishes 
were strung. He towed it ashore, at our request, and showed 
us some hundreds of beautiful fish, most of them of a species 
resembling our rock-bass, and about the size of a small shad. 
I asked the price — ^ten for a medio^ or sixpence ! "We 
declined purchasing, whereupon he offered ten for a quartillo^ 
equal to three cents. I then told him we did not wish to 
buy, but that there was a real to drink the health of los 
Americanos. 

We had now come more than a league, and I began to 
think as it had been "Aa?/ no mas'^ to Managua at Buena 
Vista, we must be near the place. We were now told " esta 
aqai^'' "it is here, you are in it;" which we afterwards found 
to mean that it was only six miles further. After much 
experience, I came to understand that '■^ hay no mas," "there 
is no more," or it is no further, is a figurative way of saying 
from nine to twelve miles ; and " esta aqui," " it is here," from 
six to nine. " Una legua," a league, I may add, for the 
benefit of uninitiated travellers, may be calculated at plea- 



A MAD KACE. 421 

sure, at from a mile and a lialf, to five miles, — " you pays 
your money, and you takes your choice !" 

Anotlier league along the lake shore, occasionally turning 
a rocky headland, and we came to a large plantain walk, 
from which a broad path diverging to the right, assured us 
that we were approaching the city. The path was as smooth 
and as clear as a race course, and our horses, who had 
been in high spirits all the morning, struck at once into a 
fast gallop. I bent down on my steed's neck, to avoid the 
branches of the trees, and gave him a loose rein. It was a 
very undignified race, no doubt, on the part of the riders, 
but both gray and bay enjoyed it, and so did we, by sheer 
force of sympathy. We met numbers of people going' to 
their huertas^ who leaped out of the path as we went scurry- 
ing along. Some cried ^^ hoo-pah P'' and others ejaculated 
something, in which I could only distinguish " horraclid'' — 
" drunk P'' But iliat was a mistake. 

We dashed into the plaza of Managua, with steaming 
steeds, and rode to the posada. It was not nine o'clock, yet 
we had ridden twenty-six miles. We ordered breakfast, and 
it was quite ready before Ben came trotting up on his mule. 
He >was in bad humor, and I couldn't blame him, for it was 
shabby to leave him alone in the chapparal. 

At eleven, when we started for Masaya, the sky was cloud- 
ed but it did not rain, and we rode at a rapid pace over the 
intervening thirty-six miles. Again we paused on the "mal 
pais" of the volcano, and looked down upon its broad, deso- 
late fields — doubly black and desolate under a lowering sky. 
Again we lingered in the noiseless streets of sweet, embow- 
ered Nindiri, born of the lake and mountain, — and at four 
o'clock entered the suburbs of Masaya. 

I had a letter to a gentleman, who, for reasons which wiU. 
duly appear, shall be nameless, and inquired for his resi- 
dence. In reaching it, we had to go through the plaza ; it 
afforded a striking contrast to the appearance it had worn 



422 NICABAaUA— NARKATIVE. 

wlien we passed it before. Tlie closed shops were now open, 
and flaunting with, gayly-colored goods — groups of people 
with laden mules were scattered in every direction, and women 
with dulces stepped across it with the precision of grena- 
diers ! A procession consisting of a boy ringing a little 
bell, and followed by some musicians and a priest, was just 
emerging from the great church, on its way to administer 
the last rites of religion to the dying. The hum of voices 
was stilled on the instant ; every head was uncovered and 
every knee bent, as the little procession moved by on its 
mission of consolation and mercy ; another moment, and the 
current of life and action flowed on as if nothing had oc- 
curred. 

The house where we were to stop was a very good one, 
and we rode at once into the court-yard. A lady, fat and 
fair, and not without pretensions to beauty, was seated in 
the corridor. She invited us to dismount, which we did, and 
I handed her my letter of introduction. She looked at the 
direction, and said it was for her husband, who had gone out ; 
she would give it to him on his return, I suggested that 
she had better read it; but, singular woman, "she never 
read her husband's letters !" She nevertheless showed a dis- 
tant relationship to the sex, by depositing it in her bosom — 
the bosom of her dress. Perhaps she had the ability, in 
common with certain maiden ladies of JSTew-England, of 
taking in the contents by a mystical process of magnetic ab- 
sorption. It wasn't pleasant to sit waiting in the corridor ; 
we had not come to make a call, but to stop for the night, 
and all the next day, and after waiting a reasonable time for 
an invitation, I told Ben to unsaddle the horses, and place 
our baggage in the corridor. The mistress looked a little 
puzzled, but said nothing. In fact the whole affair was get- 
ting to be awkward ; so I suggested to M., that pending the 
return of our proposed host, we should visit the lake. . 

The first man we met in the street proved to be one of the 



THE STKEETS OF MASAYA. 423 

identical alcaldes who were in sucli a fever to ring tlie bells, 
when we had passed through, six months before. He at 
once volunteered to accompany us to the lake, and took the 
lead with a magisterial air, as if heralding royalty, bringing 
his golden-headed cane down at every step with an empha- 
sis which struck terror into all the muchachos within a 
square of him. Occasionally he would stop to point out to 
us, or to explain, some object of interest. That house, he 
said, the door and windows of which were riddled with bul- 
lets, had been the rendezvous of the "facciosos" during the 
late disturbances. The prefect having got wind of their 
meetings, silently surrounded it with soldiers, and the first in- 
timation the conspirators had of danger, came with a hundred 
bullets through their doors and windows, and was followed 
by a charge of the bayonet — a mode of proceeding I thought 
sufficiently decided for any latitude ! That house, falling in- 
to ruins, and surrounded by rank weeds, that was the house 
of a man who had murdered a padre ; the bishop had cursed 
the spot, and it was fenced in. with posts, so that stray porkers 
might not fall under ban by entering its crumbling portal ! 
Those extraordinary clumps of flowers, looking like mam- 
moth golden epaulettes, were flowers of the coyol palm — and 
those brown shells, each half shaped like a; canoe, and almost 
as large, those were the cases in which the flower had matur- 
ed. And thus our guide went on, marching us the while 
down a broad avenue, thronged with water carriers, in the 
direction of the lake. I observed that the jars here were not 
carried on the head, but in a kind of net-work sack, suspend- 
ed on the back by a broad and gayly woven strap passing 
around the foreheads of the bearers, who came up panting 
and covered with perspiration. 

Half or three-quarters of a mile from the plaza, we came 
to the edge of the immense sunken area, at the bottom of 
which is the lake. Like the " Laguna de Salinas," near 
Granada, and which I have already described, it is sur- 



424 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 

rounded bj precfpitous cliffs, except upon tlie side of the 
volcano, opposite the city, where the lava has flowed over, 
and made a gradual but rough and impassable slope to the 
water. The first stage of the descent is by a broad flight of 
steps, sunk in the solid rock, terminating in an area, fenced by 
a kind of bali;istrade, or parapet, of the same material. I 
looked over this, and below was a sheer precipice, from which 
I recoiled with a shudder. Here stands a little cross firmly 
fixed in the rock. The path now turns to the right, winding 
along the face of the declivity, here cut in the cliff, there 
built up with masonry, and beyond secured by timbers, fast- 
ened to the trees, many of which are of gigantic size, 
covered with vines, and twining their gnarled roots in every 
direction among the rocks. These rocks themselves are 
burned and blistered with heat, with vitrified surfaces of 
red or black, resembling the hardest enamel. Were it not 
for the verdure, which hides the awful steeps and yawning 
depths, the path would prove a fearful road for people of 
weak heads and treacherous nerves, whose confidence in 
themselves would not be improved by the crosses which, 
fastened among the stones, or against the trees, point out the 
places of fatal catastrophes. Our guide advised us to 
take off our boots before commencing the descent, and the 
women whom we met slowly toiling up, in many places 
holding on by their hands, panted '■^quitasushotasP'' — "take 
off your boots !" But we were more used to boots than they, 
and kept them on — not without subjecting ourselves to a 
suspicion of fool-hardiness. Down, catching glimpses of the 
lake, apparently directly beneath us, and as distant as when 
we started, — down, down, — ^it was full fifteen or twenty 
minutes before we reached the bottom. Here were numer- 
ous places among the fallen rocks and the volcanic debris of 
the cliff, where the aguadoras filled their jars. Many of 
these were bathing in the water, carrying their jars out 
several rods from shore, filling them there and then towing 




LAKE AND VOLCANO OF MASATA.— 1859. 




EUINED GATEWAY, MASATA. 



LAKE OF MASAYA. 427 

them in. Thej did not appear at all disconcerted by our 
presence, so we sat down on the rocks and talked with the 
brown Naiads, I asked one of them if the lake was deep ? 
She replied that it was "insondable," bottomless; and to 
give me practical evidence of its great depth, paddled 
ashore, and taking a large stone in each hand, went out not 
more than thirty feet, and suffered herself to sink. She 
was gone so long that I began to grow nervous, lest some 
accident had befallen her in those unknown depths, but 
directly she popped up to the surface, almost in the very 
place where she had disappeared. She gasped a moment for 
breath, and then, turning to me, exclaimed, "you see !" 

The water is warm, but limpid, and, it is said, pure. When 
cooled, it is sweet and palatable. Considering that the lake 
is clearly of volcanic origin, with no outlet, and in close 
proximity to the volcano of the same name, this is a little 
remarkable. Most lakes of this character are more or less 
impregnated with saline materials. 

The view of the lake, and the volcano rising on the oppo- 
site shore, from the place where We were seated, was singu- 
larly novel and beautiful. Above us towered a gigantic 
cebia, festooned with vines, amongst which a company of 
monkeys were scrambling, chattering, and grimacing. Oc- 
casionally one would slip down the long, rope-like tendrils 
of the vines, scold vigorously for a moment, and then, as if 
suddenly alarmed, scramble up again amongst the branches. 
The girls said they were specially indignant at us because 
we were "blancos," and we had afterwards the most con- 
clusive, if not the most savory, evidence of their dislike, 
which it would be indehcate to explain. Suf&ce it to say, 
we registered a vow to return the next day with our guns, 
and teach the ill-bred mimics better manners. 

The cliffs which wall in the lake resemble the Palisades 
on the Hudson river, but are much higher, and destitute of 
the corresponding masses of debris at the base. The early 



428 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 

Spanisli clironiclers speak of tliem as a "thousand fathoms" 
laigli ; later travellers liave changed the fathoms to yards, 
but even that is probably an exaggeration. We had no 
means of determining the question, and wouldn't have gone 
down again, after once regaining the upper earth, to have 
solved it a thousand times. The descent was mere lagatelle, 
but the ascent one of those things which answer for a life- 
time, and leave no desire for repetition. We reached the 
upper cross after a most wearisome scramble, only fit for 
monkeys to undertake, and sat down on the last flight of 
stone steps, wholly exhausted, covered with perspiration, 
and our temples throbbing from the exertion, as if they would 
burst. The aguadoras, accustomed to it from infancy, 
seemed, to suffer almost as much as ourselves, and as they 
passed the cross, made its sign in the usual manner, in ac- 
knowledgment of their safe return. 

All the water for domestic purposes is thus painfully 
brought up from the lake. During the ^^mvierno" the rain 
is collected in tanks, or ponds, in the courts of the principal 
houses, for the use of the horses and cattle ; but when this 
supply becomes exhausted, as it does towards the close of 
the dry season, the water for their use has also to be obtained 
here. An attempt had been made to cut a path 'for mules 
down the face of the cliff, but it had failed. About two 
leagues from Masaya, however, the people had met with 
better success, and there is now a place where animals, 
with some diflGiculty, can reach the lake. There are a num- 
ber of towns, besides Masaya, which obtain their water from 
the same source. These towns existed, and the same prac- 
tice prevailed, before the Conquest, when the country was 
tenfold more populous than now. Water-carrying seems to 
have always been one of the principal institutions of this 
section of country, and as there are no streams, and never 
will be, it is likely to remain about the only enduring one, 
or until some enterprising Yankee shall introduce a grand 



LAKE OF MASAYA. 429 

forcing pump, worked, perhaps, bj volcanic power — for, 
having made the lightning a " common carrier," I do not see 
why volcanoes shouldn't be made to earn their living ! 

Oviedo has described this lake as it was in 1629, and it will 
be seen that it has little changed since then. His estimate of 
the height of the cliffs surrounding it, about one thousand 
feet, is probably not far from the truth. 

" Another very remarkable lake is found in this province, although it 
cannot be compared, in extent, with Cocibolca (Nicaragua). The water 
is much better. It is called the lake o^Lendiri (Nindiri or Masaya), and the 
principal cazique, who lives on its banks, bears the same name. This 
lake is about three leagues from G-ranada, but they are so long that we 
may safely call them four. I arrived there on St. James' day, July 25, 
1529, and stopped with Diego Machuca, the same gentleman of whom I 
have spoken heretofore. I was well received and hospitably entertained, 
and I went with him to visit this lake, which is a very extraordinary one. 
To reach it, we had to take a road, the descent of which is so rapid that 
it should be called rather a stairway than a road. Adjoining it we saw a 
round, high mountain, on the summit of which is a great cavity, from 
which issues a flame as brilliant but stronger and more continuous than 
that of Etna, or Mount Gibel, in Sicily. It is called the Volcano of 
Masaya. Towards the south an arid and open slope extends to the shores 
of the lake; but on the other sides, the lake is shut in by walls, which are 
very steep and dijSicult of descent. I beheld a path, as I was led along, 
the steepest and most dangerous that can be imagined ; for it is necessary 
to descend from rock to rock, which appear to be of massive iron, and in 
some places absolutely perpendicular, where ladders of six or seven steps 
have to be placed, which is not the least dangerous part of the journey. 
The entire descent is covered with trees, and is more than one hundred 
and thirty fathoms before reaching the lake, which is very beautiful, 
and may be a league and a half both in length and breadth. Machuca, 
and his cazique, who is the most powerful one in the country, told me 
that there were, around the lake, more than twenty descents worse than 
this by which we had passed, and that the inhabitants of the villages 
around, numbering more that one hundred thousand Indians, came here 
for water. I must confess that, in making the descent, I repented more 
than once of my enterprise, but persisted, chiefly from shame of avowing 
my fears, and partly from the encouragement of my companions, and 



430 , NICAEAGUA — ^NAEEATIVE. 

from beholding Indians loaded with an aroba and a half of water, (nearly 
40 lbs.,) who ascended as tranquilly as though travelling on a plain. On 
reaching the bottom, I plunged my hand into the water, and found it so 
warm that nothing but intense thirst could have induced me to drink 
it. But when it is carried away, it soon cools, and becomes the best 
water in the world to drink. It seems to me that this lake must be on a 
level with the fire that burns in the crater of Masaya, the name of 
which, in the Chorotegan language, signifies the burning mountain. 
But one species of fish, as small as a needle, is found here ; they are 
cooked in omelets. The Indians esteem the water very good and health- 
fiil, and when they go down, are sure to bathe in it. I asked the cazique 
why they did not bring fish from other places and put in it ? He replied 
that they had done so several times, but the water rejected them, and 
they died, difiusing a fetid odor, and corrupting the water. Among the 
descents, there was one formed of a single ladder of ropes from top to 
bottom. As there is no water for several leagues around, and the country 
is fertile, they put up with the inconvenience, and obtain their supply 
from this lake." 



The little fislies found liere are the same with those called 
sardines at Managua, and which I have described in another 
place. 

It was dusk when we returned to the plaza, which was 
now filled with people, presenting the most animated appear- 
ance that it is possible to conceive. It was market evening, 
and every one who had aught to buy or to sell, was on the 
ground, exhibiting his wares, or in search of what he wanted. 
I have said that Masaya is distinguished for its manufac- 
tures, and we now had the opportunity of learning their 
variety and extent. Upon one side of the plaza stood mules 
loaded with grass or sacate, wood carefully split and bound 
up in bundles like faggots, maize, and the more bulky 
articles of consumption. Near by were carts overflowing 
with oranges, melons, aguacates, jocotes, onions, yucas, 
papayas, and the thousand blushing, luscious fruits and 
vegetables of the country, going at prices which we regarded 
as absolutely ruinous, while las vendedoras chanted ; 



MARKET NIGHT AT MASAYA. 431 

" Tengo narangas, papayas, jocotes, 

Meloiies de agua, de oro, zapotes, 

Quieren a comprar ?" 

" I have oranges, papayas, jocotes, 
Melons of water, of gold,' and zapotes, 
WiU you buy ?" 

Here were women seated on little stools beside snow-wliite 
sheets, or in the centre of a cordon of baskets, heaped with 
cacao or coffee, starch, sugar, and the more valuable articles 
of common use ; here a group with piles of hats of various 
patterns, hammocks, cotton yarn, thread of pita, native 
blankets, petates, and the other various articles which 
Yankees call " dry goods ;" here another group, with water 
jars, plates, and candlesticks of native pottery ; there a 
sillero or saddler exposed the products of his art, the zapatero 
cried his shoes, the herrero his machetes, bits for horses, and 
other articles of iron; girls proclaimed their dulces, boys 
shouted parrots and monkeys, and in the midst of all a tall 
fellow stalked about bearing a wooden-clock from Connec- 
ticut, in. his arms, gaudily painted, with the picture of the 
sun on the dial, which seemed to tip us a familiar wink as I 
inquired the price. Unfortunate inquiry ! " Quarenta pesos ; 
barato, barato, muy barato !" " Forty dollars ; cheap, cheap, 
very cheap !" And the wretch followed us everywhere with 
that abominable clock. ^' Sir," said I at last, " I make 
clocks, and will bring one here and sell it for five dollars, if 
you do not stop your noise !" Whereupon he marched off, 
still crying, " Un relox esplendidisimo, quiera a comprar !" 
Wherever we passed, we were stunned with the mercaders, 
who fairly hustled us, in their anxiety to thrust their various 
wares full in our faces. The hackmen at a steamboat landing 
could not be worse. Directly the alcalde, who had gone off 
to* collect his ofi&cial associates, rejoined us; and then, amidst 

' Musk melons, or melones almizclenos. 



432 NICAEAGUA — ^NAERATIVE. 

the bustle of the market, we had ten minutes of laborious 
bowing and speechifying, much to the ediiication of the 
people, no doubt, who piled themselves up around us, fall 
twenty deep. I had been enjoying myself mightily, but all 
was done for now, and leaving the busy scene of which I 
would gladly have seen more, I moved off to our quarters. 

Our proposed host had returned, and received us almost 
civilly. He was a dark, saturnine looking man, and evidently 
not given to hospitality. We nevertheless got a very good 
supper, none the less acceptable because of our visit to the 
lake on the top of a horseback ride of sixty miles that day. 
We had not finished before Senor Jauregui trotted up to the 
door. He had heard where we were, and had come directly 
to our quarters. I thought he was better received than we 
had been, but the difference was not more than between cool 
and cold. I made a kind of apology for my desertion of the 
Senor, which was very politely received ; but I hope it was 
more satisfactory to him than it was to me. 

During the evening I hired some mozos to go to the Indian 
Pueblos of Jinotepec and JSTindiri, to bring me nest morning 
the oldest Indians who could be found, retaining any know- 
ledge of the language originally spoken here, with the view of 
procuring a brief vocabulary. The rest of the evening was 
spent in inquiring about antiquities, and in listening to the 
family history of the Senora of the mansion, who, besides 
keeping a tienda in one corner of the house, had the honor 
of being sister of a late minister of the country in Europe, 
once Secretary of the Treasury, but who just now did not 
stand in the highest favor with Government or people. How 
much the fact of this relationship had to do with my recep 
tion, it is hardly worth the while to conjecture. The familj' 
history was not the most entertaining to weary travellers, and 
having a keen remembrance of the table at Matearas, and 
catching glimpses of inviting curtained beds in the inner 
rooms, I made no efforts to disguise my ennui. Finally, I 



STATE BED FOR A MINISTER. 433 

plainly suggested that it was bed time. Our liost took a 
miserable candle, but instead of leading to tbe inviting cur- 
tained beds aforesaid, marclied us out into the corridor, to a 
kind of outbuilding at one extremity, with a rickety door, a 
single little window, unpaved floor, and mildewed walls. 
Here were two dirty hide beds, upon the headboards of which 
some chickens were roosting. There was not an article of 
furniture in the room ; not a rag of clothing on the beds. He 
stuck the candle against the wall, and was about departing, 
when I called him by name. He turned round, and I looked 
him full in the face for a moment, and then told him " go !" 
He really had the decency to blush ! Ben made up a kind 
of bed with the saddles and blankets, and spite of all discom- 
forts I slept soundly and well. I was up early to enjoy the 
delicious air of the morning, and strolled out into the silent 
streets, and for half a mile up one of the avenues, to a small 
picturesque church in a little square, surrounded by a high 
cactus hedge, and filled with magnificent, ancient palms. 
The church was a quaint structure, and on a slab sunk in 
the wall of the fagade was an inscription, of which I could 
only make out the words, "en el ano 1684." It had been 
long abandoned, and a flock of silent zopilotes were perched 
on the roof, with wings half expanded to catch the breeze of 
the morning. The area around it was now used as a ceme- 
tery, and kept scrupulously neat and free from weeds. 

Upon my return to the house, I found the Commissioner and 
the breakfast waiting. We had the table all to ourselves in 
the corridor, and in the intervals of his masticatory exercises, 
Don Felipe favored me with his private opinion of our host, 
which coincided wonderfully with my own. He also pro- 
duced a letter, in a very confidential way, which he begged 
I would forward to Leon, as it contained a full exposure of 
the treatment to which we had been subjected ; but which, it 
afterwards turned out, related to certain political movements 

of doubtful propriety. And as he mounted his horse to 

28 



434 NICAEAGTJA— NAEEATIVE. 

depart, he whispered in my ear, with the air of a man vindi- 
cating the national reputation for hospitality, that he had 
paid the bill for the party. I, of course, could only bow my 
acknowledgments, and with a "buenaviaje," the Commis- 
sioner rode off. The next time I saw him, three or four 
months later, a file of soldiers was marching him through the 
streets of Leon, a proscribed man, under arrest for treason ! 

Up to the departure of the Commissioner, I had been in 
doubt as to my position in the house, whether I was a pay- 
ing guest or otherwise, and had in consequence put up with 
many things little agreeable to my feelings. I now felt 
relieved, and made a number of very imperative if not neces- 
sary orders, by way of compensating myself for lost time, 
and getting the worth of my money. Ben caught the spirit, 
and instead of attending to our animals himself, went through 
double the fatigue in making the servants of the house do 
the drudgery, treating them at the same time to a variety of 
forcible epithets, besides indulging in some reflections on their 
maternal ancestry. 

Before eight o'clock the Indians whom I had sent for 
made their appearance, and squatted down in the corridor. 
Amongst them was a female, a little withered creature, with 
only a blanket around her middle, who seemed to know more 
than all the rest, and who was as prompt as an ambitious 
school-boy in replying to my questions. This annoyed her 
husband greatlyj who, not content with berating her for 
what he called her impertinence, would have administered 
practical reproof, had he not been kept in check by our 
presence. "Ah, senor," he said, "this woman has been so 
all her life! Heaven help me!" and he lifted his eyes and 
crossed himself With great difficulty I filled out my blank 
vocabulary, and dismissed my swarthy visitors, giving an 
extra real or two to the woman, who gratefully volunteered 
to visit Leon, if I required further information. 

I had heard of a ravine not far from Masaya, in which 



QUEBRADA DE LAS INSCRIPOIONES. 435 

there were inscribed rocks, " piedrads labradas," and my of- 
ficial guide of tlie preceding evening undertook to lead us 
to the place. We went down the same broad avenue to- 
wards the lake, but before reaching it, turned to the left, and 
passing through luxuriant fields of yucas and tobacco, along 
the edge of the precipice, came at last to a hollow, where 
stood the hydranhc wonder of Masaya, called, 'par excellence^ 
"La Maquina," the machine. It was a very simple and 
very rude apparatus for elevating water from the lake. The 
water jars were placed in sacks attached to an endless rope, 
connected with a pulley below, and revolving on a wheel or 
drum, turned by horse power above. The cliff here was 
lower than at any other point, and for half the distance to 
the water absolutely precipitous. Below, the fallen rocks 
and the earth washed from the ravine had formed an in- 
clined plane, up which the jars were brought on men's 
shoulders. The proprietor of the Maquina, who seemed ex- 
ceedingly proud of his achievement, told me that the machine 
raised the jars as fast as eight active men could bring them to 
the foot of the precipice. The water was emptied into a large 
trough hollowed from a single tree, and here the proprietors of 
the town watered their animals, at a certain rate per week. 
The whole affair was an experiment, and he was not yet cer- 
tain that it would succeed, because of the opposition of the 
aguadoras, who regarded it as a flagrant innovation on their 
immemorial privileges. He concluded by inquiring if we had 
similar contrivances in " Bl Norte" and seemed very com- 
placent when I assured him that there was nothing of the 
kind in the whole extent of our country. The Maquina 
stood at the mouth of the ravine of which we were in search. 
We entered, and proceeded up its narrow bed, shut in by 
walls of rock, and completely arched over with trees, for 
about a quarter of a mile. Here the face of the rock upon 
the left side was comparatively smooth, and literally covered 
with figures rudely cut in outline A few were still dis- 



436 NICAEAGUA — ^NAREATIVE. 

tinct, but most were so mucli obliterated that tbey could not 
be made out with any degree of satisfaction. Many were 
covered with the fallen debris, and the earth which the rains 
had brought down ; and still others were carved so high up 
on the precipitous rocks, that their character could not be 
ascertained. They covered the face of the cliffs for more 
than a hundred yards, and consisted chiefly of rude repre- 
sentations of animals and men, with some ornamented and 
perhaps arbitrary figures, the significance of which is now 
unknown. Figs. 1, 2 of the " Sculptured Bocks of Masaya^'' 
exhibit the principal outlines upon the first section to which 
we came, and Figs. 3, 4 those upon the second. Upon the 
latter there seems to have been an attempt at delineating the 
sun in two places, and perhaps also to record some event, for 
it is a plausible supposition that the straight marks on the 
upper section of Figure 8 were intended for numerals. The 
principal right hand figure of this section seems to have been 
designed to represent a shield, arrows, or spears, and the 
xiuatlatli^ or aboriginal instrument for throwing spears, which 
are frequently grouped in similar manner in the Mexican 
paintings. The principal figure in the inferior section is evi- 
dently intended to represent a monkey. In respect to the 
other figures, the reader is at liberty to form his own con- 
jectures. Eocks inscribed in very much the same manner, 
are scattered all over the continent, from the shores of New- 
England to Patagonia. Most, if not all of them, are the 
work of savage tribes, and seem generally designed to com- 
memorate events of greater or less importance. They are 
however far too rude to be of much archaeological value ; 
and have little interest except as illustrating the first steps 
in a system of pictorial representation which it is supposed 
subsequently became refined into a hieroglyphical, and 
finally into an alphabetical system. 

There is some reason for believing that this ravine was 
regarded as a sacred place; a hypothesis which derives a 



Fig. 1. 







SCULPTUKED EOCKS AT MASATA. 




QUEBRADA DE LAS INSCRIPCIONES. 



439 



certain degree of support from tlie seclusion and gloom of the 
spot, where the rays of the sun seldom reach, or reach but 
for a moment when the wind parts the verdure which 




VIEW IN THE 



lUEBKADA DB LAS IN SO E IP C I NE S . 



shadows over it like a tent. On the right of Fig. 4 will be 
observed a flight of rude steps cut in the rock, indicated by the 
letter a. These lead to a shelf in the cliff, about three paces 
broad, at the back of which, the rock again abruptly rises to the 
height of more than a hundred feet. Upon this shelf, and 
immediately above the figure which I have supposed to rep- 
resent an ape, is what is called " el Bano," the Bath. It is a 
rectangular excavation in the rock, nearly eight feet long, four 



440 KICAEAGUA — NAEEATIVE. 

broad, and eighteen inclies deep, cut witli great smootliness, 
the sides sloping regularly to the bottom. A groove about 
an inch and a half deep, leading to the edge of the cliff, is 
cut entirely around this basin, with the probable design of 
preventing the water from running into it. The name given 
to this excavation throws no light upon its true character, 
for it would be wholly inadequate for bathing purposes, even 
if there were a supply of water near, which there is not. 
There seems to be but one explanation of its origin, which 
has so much as the merit of plausibility, viz., that it was, in 
some way, connected with the superstitions of the aborigines, 
and devoted to sacred objects. 

To the left, and a little above the figure which I have sup- 
posed to represent the sun, (c,) there is a pentagonal hole or 
shaft, penetrating horizontally into the rock. It is about six- 
teen or eighteen inches in diameter, and of an indefinite 
depth. I thrust a pole into it for upwards of twenty feet 
The sides are perfectly regular and smooth. Our guide 
pointed out to me one similar, some distance off, in another 
part of the ravine. It was, however, not more than five or six 
inches in diameter, and occurred so high up on the cliff that 
I could not ascertain its depth. The rock is basaltic or tra- 
chytic, and very hard. I am not aware that such openings are 




found in this kind of rock ; but nevertheless suppose that 
those under notice are natural. Our guide insisted that they 
were artificial, and said the Indians have a tradition that 
they lead to subterranean chambers. I cannot describe them 
oetter than by saying that they appeared to be the matrices 
from which gigantic crystals had been withdrawn. 

Besides the figures represented in the plates, there were 



INSCEIBED ROCKS. 441 

many isolated ones, at various places on the rocks, among 
wMch those engraved above were several times repeated. 
Our guide also told us that there were other rocks, having 
figures both painted and sculptured upon them, at several 
points around the lake, but we could not ascertain the pre- 
cise locality of any except those before us. Near a place 
called Santa Catrina, I was informed, there is a large rock 
covered with figures in red paint, like those at Nihapa, rep- 
resenting men and women dancing, and playing upon instru- 
ments of music. I had, however, no opportunity of ascer- 
taining how far the account coincided with the facts, but 
have no doubt that it was somewhat exaggerated. The man 
at the Maquina also told me about what he called " stone 
vases," which were to be found below the cliffs, at the edge 
of the lake, a league distant from where we now were. Upon 
questioning him as to their character, I ascertained that they 
were kettle-shaped excavations in rocks lying on the shore. 
He said they were now used to receive leather for tanning, 
and were probably originally devoted to a similar purpose. 

It was late when we returned to Masaya, but as the moon 
was in its first quarter, I resolved to ride to Granada that 
evening. So we despatched a cup of chocolate (for which I 
paid the lady, with the distinguished connections, a dollar 
and a half) and mounted our horses just as the sun was 
sinking behind the volcano of Masaya, I hired a mozo in 
the plaza to ride ahead and put us in the right path, — a 
precaution, the necessity of which will appear when I say 
that foot and mule paths diverge in a thousand directions 
from every principal town, all so nearly alike that it is im- 
possible for the stranger to tell one from another. We met 
hundreds of Indians, of both sexes, young and old, coming 
in from the fields, each bearing a small load of wood, corn, 
plantains, or other articles of consumption. They were all 
in excellent humor, and saluted us gayly. By-and-by the 
night fell, and except an occasional straggler, we had the 



442 NICAEAGUA— NARRATIVE. 

path to ourselves. Now we wound along in deep dells and 
ravines, wliere it was so dark tliat we could not see each 
other, and anon emerged into the narrow open savannahs, of 
which I have elsewhere spoken, smiling under the soft light 
of the crescent moon. The paths were so numerous, that, 
after puzzling myself into a state of profoundest confusion, 
in attempting to keep the broadest and most frequented, I 
left the selection entirely to my horse. Where we should 
bring up was a matter of uncertainty ; our only land-mark 
was the volcano of Momobacho, and while that was kept to 
the right, I knew we could not be greatly out of our way. 
Our horses were fresh, the evening was cool, and forest and 
savannah, light and shade, seemed to float past us like the 
silent scenery of a dream. That ride was a poetical episode 
of existence, as perfect in its kind as the morning passage 
along the shores of Lake Managua, with which it contrasted 
so strongly. Here all was dim and calm and silent, deep 
shadows and mellow light ; there the great sun ruled in his 
strength, the leaping waters, the music of wind and wave, 
the songs of birds, man and beast, all was life and action, 
and the human soul which swelled to the exuberant har- 
monies of the one, subsided to the holy cadences of the other. 
Happy is he who truly sympathizes with Nature, and whose 
heart beats responsively to her melodies. One hour of such 
communion with our great and genial Mother ! How all the 
struggles of life, the petty aims and ambitions of men, 
dwindle before the comprehensive majesty of her teachings ! 
As we rode on, I tried in vain to recognize the features of 
the country, and the suspicion that we had missed our way 
passed into a certainty, when, emerging suddenly from a 
long reach of gloomy forest, we found ourselves upon the 
precipitous banks of the " Laguna de Salinas." The declining 
moon shone slantingly upon that deep Avernian lake, with 
its cliffs casting the shadow of their frown over more than 
half its surface. I paused for a moment to look upon the 



GRANADA, ONCE MORE. 



443 



gloomy picture, and then turned off into tlie circuitous 
camino real, which we had now reached, for Granada. A 
brisk ride of little more than half an hour brought us to the 
arsenal, which stands like a sentinel on the outmost limits 
of the city. It no longer bristled with armed men, as it had 
done when we passed it six months before ; and the Jalteva 
which was then deserted and silent, was 
now all life and animation. Light shone 
out from the open doors, and the merry 
laughter of children mingled with the 
tinkling of guitars, and the not over me- 
lodious, nasal sentimentalities of love- 
sick swains. The entire city wore a very 
different aspect from that which it had 
borne at the time of our 
arrival. The gloom, not 
to say terror, which then 
oppressed all classes, had 
passed away ; and as I 
rode through the streets 



;^j*^-v 




CHURCH OP SAN PEAN0ISGO, GRANABA. 

and witnessed the apparent absence of want, of care for the 
present, or concern for the future, I could not resist the im- 



444 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 

pression that probably no equal mimber of people in the 
world enjoyed more real happiness than these. With 
the mass of men, those whose higher powers of enjoyment 
have never been developed, and whose happiness depends 
chiefly upon the absence of physical wants, or upon the ease 
with which they may be gratified, the life of the people of 
Granada must come very near to their ideal of human exist- 
ence. And he will be a bold speculator, who having seen 
man under the various aspects, political or otherwise, in which 
the world presents him, shall deny the truth of the popular 
idea ; and a bold innovator who, in vain aspirations for 
what he conceives necessary for the popular welfare, shall 
disturb this illusion, if illusion it be, which the mass of 
mankind so fondly cherish. 

I had engaged quarters in advance, and rode to them at 
once. A large sala was ready for our reception, and in less 
than ten minutes a cup of foaming chocolate was smoking 
upon the sideboard. Our first visitor was our old friend, 
Dr. S., who brought with him another American, a bluff 
sailor from Albany, who, by a singular series of vicissitudes, 
had found his way to Granada. He had shipped from New 
York for Eio, thence to Callao, where the crew was paid off, 
and the vessel sold. The world was all agog for California, 
and Jack, with his brother tars, also caught the fever. But 
how to get there was a question. Every vessel was over- 
crowded, and passages were at a rate far beyond the ability 
of any of them to pay. In this dilemma eight of their num- 
ber clubbed together and purchased an open whale-boat, 
which they victualled and watered to the best of their ability, 
and, with a daring eminently American, started on a voyage 
of upwards of four thousand miles. They put in once or 
twice to procure supplies, and had accomplished one-half of 
the distance, when they were overtaken by a storm, dis- 
masted, and capsized, and with the loss of two of their num- 
ber, after drifting for four days, with neither food nor drink, 



ADVENTURES OP A SAILOR. 445 

at tlie mercy of tlie winds and currents, were finally driven 
upon an unknown coast. Here a few wild fruits, some birds, 
and shell-fisli, supplied the immediate wants of nature. Re- 
pairing their disabled boat, so far as they were able, without 
clothing, arms, or utensils of any sort, they coasted painfully 
along the shore for two days. On the third day they found 
a few Indians diving for pearls, who, alarmed at their appear- 
ance, fled into the forest. One was overtaken, and through 
the medium of some Spanish, little understood upon one side 
and still less upon the other, they ascertained that they were 
in the Bay of Culebra, in the department of Guanacaste, the 
southern district of Nicaragua. The region along the coast 
was uninhabited, but after much difS.culty they succeeded in 
reaching the little village of Santa Cruz, in the interior. 
Here a division of property, consisting of two old silver 
watches, and twelve dollars in cash, took place, and the party 
separated, each with four dollars wherewith to clothe himself, 
and commence the world again. Jack, who was something 
of a carpenter, tried to mend his fortunes by mending the 
houses of the people, but soon found that houses good or bad 
were of little consequence, and so hired himself to a vaquero 
who was about starting with a drove of mules for the city of 
Nicaragua. The fare was bad, and the labor incredible, and 
after three weeks of suffering in the hot sun by day, and in 
pestilent damps at night, his feet lacerated by sharp stones, 
his body torn by thorns and inflamed from the bites of in- 
sects, with a raging fever which made him delirious for hours 
together, and caused his hair to drop in handfuls from his 
head, — ^in this plight, poor Jack reached Nicaragua. And 
here, to crown his miseries, his rascally employer not only 
refused to pay him, but, while he was lying delirious in an 
outhouse, robbed him of his little store of money. When 
the fit had passed, he staggered out into the streets and to- 
wards the fields, muttering incoherently. The children were 
frightened by his haggard looks and bloodshot eyes, and fled 



446 NICARAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 

as he reeled along. Fortunately, lie was seen by one of the 
citizens, who not only brought him to his own house, but 
sent at once for Dr. S,, then accidentally in the city, who 
attended the poor fellow with characteristic humanity and 
unwearied assiduity, day and night, until he had recovered, 
and then took him to his own house in Granada. He was 
still weak, but fast regaining his strength, and I listened to 
his story, told with the bluff heartiness of the sailor, with an 
interest which the art of the novelist could not heighten. I 
had the satisfaction, a couple of months later, of securing his 
passage on board a French vessel bound to that land of pro- 
mise to which he still looked forward with unwavering hope ; 
and since my return to the United States, I have received a 
letter from him, modestly announcing that he has amassed 
sis thousand dollars, — the sum which " he was bound to win 
or die," and as one-third owner and mate of a little brig, was 
on the eve of starting for the Sandwich Islands on a trading 
venture ! 

Such, in this new land, is the course of Fortune. Jack, 
my good friend, may God speed thee, and may thy success 
be commensurate with thy honest deservings! I need not 
wish thee more than that I 



CHAPTEE XVII. 

VISIT TO PENSACOLA — DISCOVERY OF MONUMENTS — SEARCH FOR OTHERS — SUC- 
CESS DEPARTURE FOR " EL ZAPATEKO" LA CARLOTA LOS CORALES — 

ISLA DE LA SANTA ROSA — A NIGHT VOYAGE — ARRIVAL AT ZAPATERO — 
SEARCH FOR MONUMENTS — FALSE ALARM — DISCOVERY OF STATUES — INDIANS 
FROM OMETEPEC — ^A STRONG FORCE — ^FURTHER INVESTIGATIONS — MAD DANCE 
— ^EXTINCT CRATER AND VOLCANIC LAKE — STONE OF SACRIFICE — EL CANON — 
DESCRIPTION OF MONUMENTS, AND THEIR PROBABLE ORIGIN — LIFE ON THE 
ISLAND. 

Dec. 2, 1849. — Tliis afternoon we prevailed upon Pedro — 
who, with, liis six stout sailors, liad been drunk for a week, 
but were now sober and anxious to lay in a new supply of 
reals for another debauch — to take us over to the httle island 
of Pensacola, almost within cannon-shot of the old castle of 
Granada, A young fellow, whilom a sailor, but now in the 
Dr.'s service, on half-pay, as honorary man of all- work, 
averred that upon this island were '■^ piedras antiguas''' of great 
size, but nearly buried in the earth. It seemed strange that 
in all our inquiries concerning antiquities, of the padres and 
licenciados, indeed of the "best informed" citizens of Grra- 
nada, we had not heard of the existence of these monuments. 
The Dr. was not a little skeptical, but experience had taught 
me that more information, upon these matters, was to be 
gathered from the bare-footed mozos than from the black- 
robed priests, and I was obstinate in my determination to 
visit Pensacola. 

It was late when we started, but in less than an hour we 
leaped ashore upon the island. It is one of the " out-liers" 
of the labyrinth of small islands which internal fires long 



448 NICARAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 

ago thrust up from tlie depths of the lake, around the base 
of the volcano of Momobacho ; and its shores are lined with 
immense rocks, black and blistered by the heat which ac- 
companied the ancient disruptions of which they are the evi- 
dences. In some places they are piled up in rough and frown- 
ing heaps, half shrouded by the luxuriant vines which na- 
ture trails over them, as if to disguise her own deformities. 
In the island of Pensacola these rocks constitute a semi-cir- 
cular ridge, nearly enclosing a level space of rich soil, — a 
kind of ampbitheatre, looking towards the west, the prospect 
extending beyond the beach of Granada to the ragged hills 
and volcanic peaks around the lake of Managua. Upon a 
little elevation, within this natural temple, stood an aban- 
doned cane hut, almost hidden by a forest of luxuriant plan- 
tains,- which covered the entire area with a dense shadow, 
here and there pierced by a ray of sunlight, falling like mol- 
ten gold through narrow openings in the leafy roof. 

No sooner had we landed, than our men dispersed them- 
selves in search of the monuments, and we followed. We 
were not long kept in suspense ; a shout of " aqui, aquiP'' 
" here, here," from the Dr.'s man, announced that they were 
found. We hurried to his side. He was right ; we could 
distinctly make out two great blocks of stone, nearly hidden 
ia the soil. The parts exposed, though frayed by storms, 
and having clearly suffered from violence, nevertheless bore 
evidences of having been elaborately sculptured. A demand 
was made for the machetes of the men ; and we were not 
long in removing enough of the earth to discover that the 
supposed blocks were large and well-proportioned statues, of 
superior workmanship and of larger size than any which we 
had yet encountered. The discovery was an exciting one, 
and the Indian sailors were scarcely less interested than our- 
selves. They crouched around the figures, and speculated 
earnestly concerning their origin. They finally seemed to 
agree that the larger of the two was no other than " Monte- 



MONUMENTS AT PENS AC OLA. 449 

zuma." It is a singular fact that the name and fame of the 
last of the Aztec emperors is cherished by all the Indian 
remnants from the banks of the Gila to the shores of Lake 
Nicaragua. Like the Pecos of New Mexico, some of the 
Indians of Nicaragua still indulge the belief that Montezuma 
will some day return, and reestablish his ancient empire. 

I was convinced that there were other monuments here, 
but the sun was going down, and having resolved to return 
the next day, I gave up the search,— not, however, without 
engaging Pedro to be ready, with men and tools, to return 
at sunrise the next morning. 

Pedro, for a miracle, was true to his word (probably be- 
cause he had no money wherewith to get drunk) ; and the 
dew was fresh on the leaves, the parrots chattered vocife- 
rously, and the waves toyed cheerfully with the black ba- 
saltic rocks, as we leaped ashore a second time on Pensacola. 
The boat was moored, coffee speedily made and despatched, 
and then Pedro's crew stripped themselves naked, and made 
other formidable preparations for disinterring the idols. But 
the preparations were more formidable than the execution. 
They commenced very well, but long before the figures were 
exposed to view, they were all smitten with a desire to hunt 
up others, — a plausible pretext for skulking away and 
stretching themselves on the ground beneath the plantains. 
I was at one time left wholly alone ; even Pedro had disap- 
peared ; but the rascals came tumbling together again when 
I proclaimed that the " aguardiente^'' was circulating. By 
dint of alternate persuasions and threats, we finally succeed- 
ed in getting the smaller of the two figures completely un- 
covered. It had evidently been purposely buried, for one 
of the arms had been broken in its fall into the pit which 
had been previously dug to receive it, and the face had been 
bruised and mutilated. In this way the early Catholic zeal- 
ots had endeavored to destroy the superstitious attachment 
of the aborigines to their monuments. It was, however, sat- 

29 



450 NICAEAGUA — ^NAERATIVE. 

isfactory to reflect that the figures were probably, on the 
whole, better preserved by their long interment than if they 
had been suffered to remain above ground. The next diffi- 
culty was to raise the prostrate figure ; but after much pre- 
paration, propping, lifting, and vociferation, we succeeded in 
standing it up against the side of the hole which we had dug, 
in such a position that my artist could proceed with his 
sketch. It represented a human male figure, of massive pro- 
portions, seated upon a square pedestal, its head slightly 
bent forward, and its hands resting on its thighs, as repre- 
sented in the accompanying Plate, No. I. Above the face 
rose a heavy and monstrous representation of the head of an 
animal, below which could be traced the folds of a serpent, 
the fierce head of which was sculptured, open-mouthed and 
with life-like accuracy, by the side of the face of the figure. 
The whole combination was elaborate and striking. 

The stone from which the figure here described was cut, is 
a hard sandstone, of a reddish color ; but the sculpture is 
bold, and the limbs, unlike those of the monoliths of Copan, 
are detached so far as could be done with safety, and are cut 
with a freedom which I have observed in no other statuary 
works of the American aborigines. 

To enable M. to make a drawing of the monument just 
disclosed, and to relieve him from the annoyance of our men, 
I deferred proceeding with the exhumation of the remaining 
one until he had finished, and therefore summoned all 
hands to search the island for others, — stimulating their ac- 
tivity by the splendid offer of a reward of four reals (equiva- 
lent to two days' wages) to any one who should make a dis- 
covery. I also joined in the search, but after wandering all 
over the little island, I came to the conclusion that, if there 
were others, of which I had httle doubt, they had been suc- 
cessfully buried, and were past finding out, or else had been 
broken up and removed. So I seated myself philosophically 
upon a rock, and watched an army of black ants, which 




IDOL AT PENSACOLA.-No. 1. 



IDOLS AT PENSACOLA. 453 

were defiling past, as if making a tour of the island. They 
formed a solid column from five to six inches wide, and 
marched straight on, turning neither to the right hand nor 
to the left, pertinaciously surmounting every obstacle which 
interposed, I watched them for more than half an hour, 
but their number seemed undiminished; thousands upon 
thousands hurried past, until finally, attracted by curiosity, 
I rose and followed the line, in order to discover the destina- 
tion of the procession, — if it were an invasion, a migration, 
or a simple pleasure excursion. At a short distance, and 
under the cover of some bushes, the column mounted what 
appeared to be simply a large, round stone, passed over it, 
and continued its march. 

The stone attracted my attention, and on observing it 
more closely, I perceived traces of sculpture. I summoned 
my men, and after a two hours' trial of patience and temper, 
I succeeded in raising from its bed of centuries another idol 
of massive proportions, but differing entirely from the others, 
and possessing an extraordinary and forbidding aspect. (See 
Fig. No. 2.) The lower half had been broken off, and 
could not be found ; what remained was simply the bust and 
head. The latter was disproportionately great; the eyes 
were large, round, and staring; the ears broad and long; 
and from the widely-distended mouth, the lower jaw of 
which was forced down by the hands of the figure, pro- 
jected a tongue which reached to the breast, giving to the 
whole an unnatural and horrible expression. As it stood in 
the pit, with its monstrous head rising above the ground, 
with its fixed stony gaze, it seemed like some gray monster 
just emerging from the depths of the earth, at the bidding 
of the wizard-priest of an unholy religion. My men stood 
back, and more than one crossed himself as he muttered to 
his neighbor, " es eZ diabhr "it is the devil!" I readily 
comprehended the awe with which it might be regarded by 
the devotees of the ancient religion, when the bloody priest 



454 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 

daubed the lapping tongue with, the yet palpitating hearts of 
his human victims ! 

It was long past noon before we commenced the task of 
raising the largest and by far the most interesting idol to an 
erect position. This was no easy undertaking. The stone, 
although not more than nine feet high, measured ten feet in 
circumference, and was of great weight. We were but 
eleven men all told; Pedro said it was useless to try, we 
might turn it over, but nothing more. Still I was deter- 
mined it should be raised, not only for the purpose of 
observing its effect in that position, but because I was con- 
vinced that the under side must exhibit more clearly the 
finer details of the sculpture than the upper, which had been 
partially exposed above the ground. I gave each man a 
prodigious dram of aguardiente^ which inspired corresponding 
courage, and after procuring an additional number of stout 
levers and props, we proceeded to raise the recumbent mass. 
Our progress was slow and difficult, the sweat rolled in 
streams down the glossy skins of our sailors, who — ^thanks to 
the ardiente — worked with more vigor than I thought them 
capable of exerting. The aguardiente was worth more than 
gold to me that day. The men shouted and cheered, and cried, 
'■^arriha con la ninal" " up with the baby !" But before we 
got it half raised, a thunder-storm, the approach of which 
had escaped our notice in the excitement, came upon us, as 
only a tropical thunder-storm knows how to come. I beat a 
retreat, dripping with perspiration, into the deserted hut ; 
while the men sat coolly down and took the pelting, — they 
were used to it! The storm passed in due time, but the 
ground was saturated, and the feet sank deeply in the soft, 
sticky mass around the "nina." Still, in order to save 
another visit in force the next day, I determined not to 
rehnquish the task we had begun. But the difl&culties were 
now augmented, and it was only after the most extraordinary 
exertions, at imminent danger of crushed limbs, that we 



!^ 4 





IDOLS AT PENSACOLA. 457 

succeeded in our object. With bleeding bands, and com- 
pletely bedaubed with mud, I had at last the satisfaction 
to lead off in a " Viva por la nina antigua /" — " Hurrah for 
the old baby !" I am not quite sure but I took a drop of the 
aguardiente myself, while the shower was passing. Pedro 
and his crew responded by a " Vivan los Americanos del 
Norte r which, being interpreted, meant tha,tthey "wouldn't 
object to another drink." This was given of course, where- 
upon Pedro insinuated that '■^ Los Americanos son diablos ./" — 
"The Americans are devils;" which remark, however, Pedro 
meant as a compliment. The figure, when erect, was truly 
grand. It represented a man with massive limbs, and broad, 
prominent chest, in a stooping or rather crouching posture, 
his hands resting on his thighs, just above the knees. (See Fig. 
No. 3.) Above his head rose the monstrous head and jaws 
of some animal ; its fore paws were placed one upon each 
shoulder, and the hind ones upon the hands of the statue, as 
if binding them to the thighs. It might be intended, it 
probably was intended, to represent an alligator or some 
mythological or fabulous animal. Its back was covered with 
carved plates, like rough mail. The whole rose from a 
broad, square pedestal. The carving, as in the other figure, 
was bold and free. I never have seen a statue which con- 
veyed so forcibly the idea of power and strength ; it was a 
study for a Samson under the gates of Gaza, or an Atlas 
supporting the world. The face was mutilated and dis- 
figured, but it still seemed to wear an expression of sternness, 
if not severity, which added greatly to the effect of the whole. 
The finer details of workmanship around the head had 
suffered much ; and from the more decided marks of violence 
which the entire statue exhibits, it seems probable that it 
was an especial object of regard to the aborigines, and of 
corresponding hate to the early Christian zealots. 

The sun came oiit brightly after the rain, and although 
wet and weary, and not insensible to the comforts of dry 



458 ^ NICAEAGUA — NAEEATIVE. 

clotlies and tlie seductions of a hammock, I could hardly tear 
myself away from these remarkable monuments — overturned 
perhaps by the hands of Gil Gonzalez himself, at the time 
when, in the language of the chronicler, " the great cazique 
Nicaragua consented ta be baptized, together with nine thou- 
sand of his subjects, and thus the country became converted." 
" The great idols in his sumptuous temples," continues the 
historian, " were thrown down, and the cross set up in their 
stead." The same authority assures us that " Nicaragua was a 
chief of great good wit, and though the Spanish captain was a 
discreet man, it puzzled him much to explain to Nicaragua 
why it was that so few men as the Spaniards coveted so 
much gold." 

M. returned the next day and completed his drawings, 
while I busied myself in preparing for a voyage to the great 
uninhabited island of Zapatero. 

The T.'s had volunteered one of their bongos, one of the 
largest and most comfortable on the lake ; and as most of 
this kind of unique craft are only gigantic canoes, hollowed 
from a single trunk of the cebia, and quite as well fitted, and , 
just as much disposed, to sail upon their sides or bottom up 
as any other way, it was a gratification to know that " La 
Carlota" had been built with something of a keel, by a foreign 
shipwright, and that the prospect of being upset in the first 
blow was thereby diminished from three chances in four, to 
one in two. The voyager who has sailed on the restless lake 
of Nicaragua in gusty weather, with bungling sailors, can 
well comprehend the satisfaction with which we contem- 
plated " La Carlota," as she rocked gracefully at her moor- 
ings, off the old castle on the shore. She was perhaps 
sixty feet long, and her chopa was capable of accommo- 
dating four or five persons with lodgings, — something in the 
pickled mackerel order, it is true, but not uncomfortably, in 
the moderated views of comfort which the traveller in Cen- 
tral America soon comes to entertain. In front of the chopa 



THE BONGO "LA CARLOTA. 



459 



were ten benches, for as many oarsmen, and places for setting 
np the masts, in case the winds should permit of their use. 
" La Carlota," withal, was painted on the outside, and had 
a figure head : indeed, take her all in all, she looked a frigate 




THE BONGO "la CAELOTA, 



among the numerous strange pit-pans, piraguas, and other 
anomalous and nameless water-craft around her. Thus far 
all was well. The next thing was to get a crew together ; 
but this devolved upon tlie junior Mr. T, After two days of 
exertion, for there was a great conjunction o^ fiestas at the 
time, they were enlisted and duly paid, — everybody expects 
pay in advance in Central America ! A fixed number of 
reals were counted out for the commissary department, and 
the patron, Juan^ solemnly promised to be ready to set sail 
the next morning at sunrise for the island of Zapatero, the 
"Shoemaker," wbere Manuel, who was to go along as a guide, 



460 NICARAGUA — JSTAREATIVE. 

assured us there were many frailes, friars, some kneeling, 
otliers sitting, and still others standing erect, or reclining as 
if in death, besides many other wonderful and curious things, 
among which was a deep salt lake. 

The Dr. and myself completed our arrangements over 
night. After breakfast the next morning, which had been 
fixed for our departure, I proposed to go down to the lake, 
supposing that as Juan had promised to be ready by sunrise, 
we might possibly succeed in getting off by nine or ten 
o'clock at the furthest. The Dr., however, protested that it 
was useless to go down so early, — " he was not going to broil 
in the sun, on the open beach, all the forenoon, not he;" and 
he comfDrted us with the assurance that he had lived in the 
country ten years, and that if we got off before the middle of 
the afternoon, we might perform any surgical operation we 
pleased upon either one of his legs ! My time was limited, 
and these vexatious delays almost worried me into a fever. 
At eleven o'clock, however, I prevailed upon the Dr., much 
against his will, and amidst his earnest protestations that he 
" knew the people, and that it was no kind of use," to go 
down to the shore. There swung our bongo, precisely as we 
had left it the day before, and not a soul on board ! The 
shore was covered with groups of half-naked women, seated 
just at the edge of the water, engaged in an operation here 
called washing^ which consisted in dipping the articles in the 
water, and placing them on a rough stone, and beating 
them violently with a club, to the utter demolition of every- 
thing in the shape of bu.ttons ! Groups of children were 
paddling in little pools, or playing in the sand ; sailors just 
arrived were landing their cargoes, carrying the bales on 
their shoulders through the breakers, and depositing them in 
creaking carts; here and there a horseman pranced along 
under the shadow of the trees on the shore ; and amongst all, 
imperturbable buzzards in black, and long-legged cranes in 
white, walked about with prescriptive freedom I Altogether 



EXPEDITION TO ZAPATERO. 461 

it was a singular mixture of civilized and savage life, and 
one not likely to be forgotten by the observant traveller. 

I was, however, in no mood to enjoy the scene,' — and the 
Dr.'s "I told you so !" as he quietly seated himself on a log 
in the shade, was cruelly provoking. After diligent search, 
we found two of our crew, with only a cloth wrapped around 
their loins, lying flat on the sands, their faces covered with 
their sombreros, and the hot sun beating down upon their 
naked bodies, — perfect pictures of the intensest laziness. 
"Where is the patron ?" They simply lifted their hats, and 
reponded, "Quien sabe?" "Who knows?" The eternal 
"Quien sabe," and uttered without so much as an attempt to 
rise ! This was unendurable ; I gave them each an emphatic 
kick in the ribs with my rough travelling boots, which 
brought them to their feet in an instant, with a deprecatory 
exclamation of '■'■ Senor T One was despatched to hunt up 
the others among the pulperias of the town, with emphatic 
threats of great bodily harm, if the delinquents were not 
produced within a given time. The second one, a strapping 
Mestizo, who still rubbed his side with a lugubrious expres- 
sion of face, was ordered to deposit himself within short 
range of my fornaidable-looking " Colt," with an injunction 
not to move unless ordered. Directly, another recreant was f 
discovered, doing the agreeable to a plump coffee-colored 
washing-girl^^ — nothing chary of her charms, as may be 
inferred from the fact that excepting a cloth, none of the 
largest, thrown over her lap, she was au naturel. He too was 
ordered to take up his position beside the other prisoner, 
which he did with a bad grace, but greatly to the pretended 
satisfaction of the coffee-colored girl, who said that he was 
'■'■ malo^^'' bad, and deserved all sorts of ill. "A woman is 
naturally a coquette, whether in a white skin or black," 
philosophized the Dr. ; "that yellow thing don't mean what 
she says. I'll wager they have just agreed to get married, 
or what is the same thing in these countries." 



462 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 

It was higli noon long before we got our vagrant crew 
under our batteries ; and conscious of tbeir delinquencies, and 
not a little in awe of our pistol butts, they really exerted 
themselves in getting the boat ready. Half a dozen naked 
fellows plunged into the surf, their black bodies alternately 
appearing and disappearing in the waves, and towed the 
"Oarlota" close in shore, under the lee of the old castle. The 
sails, our provisions, blankets, etc., were placed on board, 
and then we mounted on the shoulders of the strongest, and 
were duly deposited on the quarter-deck. The bells of the 
city chimed two o'clock, as we swept outside of the fort into 
the rough water. It was all the men could do to overcome 
the swell, and the sweeps bent under their vigorous strokes. 
Once in deep water, the waves were less violent, but they 
had the long, majestic roll of the ocean. Here every oarsman 
pulled off his breeches, his only garment, deposited his som- 
brero in the bottom of the boat, and lighted a cigar ; they 
were now in full uniform, and pulled sturdily at the oars. 
Juan, the patron, drew off his breeches also, but, by way 
of maintaining the dignity of the quarter-deck, or out of 
respect to his passengers, he kept on his shirt, a flaming red 
check, and none of the longest, which, as he bestrode the 
tiller, fluttered famously in the wind. 

One hour's hard pulling, and we were among the islands. 
Here the water was still and glassy, while the waves dashed 
and chafed with a sullen roar asrainst the iron shores of the 
outer rank, as if anxious to invade the quiet of the inner 
recesses, — those narrow, verdure-arched channels, broad, crys- 
tal-floored vistas, and cool, shady nooks in which graceful 
canoes were here and there moored. 

Perhaps a more singular group of islets cannot be found in 
the wide world. As I have before said, they are all of vol- 
canic origin, generally conical in shape, and seldom exceed- 
ing three or four acres in area. All are covered with a cloak 
of verdure, but nature is not always successful in hiding the 



ISLAND SCENERY. ^ 463 

black rocks wliich start out in places, as if in disdain of all 
concealment, and look frowningly down on the clear water, 
giving an air of wildness to the otherwise soft and quiet 
scenery of the islands. Trailing over these rocks, and drop- 
ping in festoons from the overhanging trees, their long, pliant 
tendrils floating in the waves, are innumerable vines, with 
bright and fragrant flowers of red and yellow, mingled with 
the inverted cone of the "gloria de Nicaragua," with its 
overpowering odor, with strange and nameless fruits, forming 
an evergreen roof, so close that even a tropical sun cannot 
penetrate. Many of these islands have patches of cultivated 
ground, and on such, generally crowning their summits, 
relieved by a dense green background of plantains, and sur- 
rounded by kingly palms, and the papaya with its golden 
fruit, are the picturesque cane huts of the inhabitants. 
Groups of naked, swarthy children in front, — a winding path 
leading beneath the great trees down to the water's edge, — 
an arbor-like, miniature harbor, with a canoe lashed to the 
shore, — a woman naked to the waist, with a purple skirt of 
true Tyrian dye, for the famous murex is found on the Pacific 
shores of Nicaragua, her long, black, glossy hair falling over 
neck and breast, and reaching almost to her knees, — a flock of 
noisy parrots in a congressional squabble among the trees, — a 
swarm of parroquets scarcely less noisy, — a pair of vociferat- 
ing macaws like floating fragments of a rainbow in the air, — 
inquisitive monkeys hanging among the vines, — active igua- 
nas scrambling up the banks, — ^long-necked and long-legged 
cranes in deep soliloquy at the edge of the water, their white 
bodies standing out in strong relief against a background of 
rock and verdure, — a canoe glancing rapidly and noiselessly 
across a vista of water, — all this, with a golden sky above, the 
purple sides of the volcano of Momobacho overshadowing us, 
and the distant shores of Ohontales molten in the slanting 
sunlight, — these were some of the elements of the scenery of 
the islands, — elements constantly shifting, and forming new 



464 NICAEAGUA — NAEEATIVE. 

and pleasing combinations. Seated upon the roof of tlie 
cliopa, I forgot in contemplating the changing scenery the 
annoyances of the morning, and felt almost disposed to ask 
the pardon of the marineros whom I had treated so -uncere- 
moniously. 

Our men, for we were now in the cool shadow of the 
mountain, pulled bravely at the oars, chanting a song which 
seems to be eminently popular amongst all classes of the 
people. I could not catch the whole of it, but it commenced • 

"Memorias dolorosas 
De mi .traidor amante, 
Huye de mi un instante 
Haced lo por piedad." 

At the end of each stanza they gave a sharp pull at the sweeps, 
and shouted '■'■ hoo-pah P^ — a freak which seemed to entertain 
them highly, although we "couldn't exactly see the point 
of it." It was nearly sunset when we arrived at Manuel's 
islands ; for though Manuel went with us as a guide, at the 
rate of three reals per day, he had, nevertheless, a house in 
town, not to mention a couple of islands, upon one of which 
was his country-seat, and upon the other his plantain walk 
and fruitery. His country-seat consisted of a cane hut ; but 
he proudly pointed out to us a heap of new tiles and a pile of 
poles, and said he meant one day to have &palacio on Santa 
Eosa, for so he called his island. I did not envy him his 
prospective palace, but Santa Eosa was a gem. Its outer 
shore, fronting the turbulent water, was lined with immense 
rocks, within which was a barrier of large trees, draped over 
with vines, and completely sheltering Manuel's hut from the 
winds and storms of the lake. Upon the inner side was a 
little, crescent-shaped harbor, in which our bongo rocked 
lazily to and fro. A couple of tall cocoa trees, a cluster of 
sugar-canes, and a few broad-leaved plants at the water's edge, 
gave a tropical aspect to the islet, which looked to me, in the 



NIGHT AMONGST THE ISLANDS. 465 

subdued lialf-liglit of the evening, as a very paradise for a 
recluse. 

Juan, proposed to stay here for the night, as the wind was 
now too violent to permit us to venture outside of the islands ; 
besides, our improvident men had yet to lay in their supply 
of plantains — the staff of life to the inhabitants of Central 
America. A little boat was accordingly despatched to a 
neighboring island, for these indispensable articles, while the 
remainer of the crew made supper for themselves. A single 
kettle, their machetes and fingers were their only service, 
but it was an effective one, and they made themselves as 
merry as if there was nothing in the wide world left to wish 
for. For ourselves, a cup of coffee and a cut of cold chicken 
suflQ-ced. 

The moon was nearly at her fall, and the transition from 
day to night was so gradual as hardly to be perceived. Eosy 
clouds hung long in the west, changing slowly to deep pur- 
ple and grey ; but when the dominion of the moon came on, 
they lighted up again with a silver radiance. A mass, like 
a half transparent robe, rolled itself around the summit of 
the volcano; the verdure of the island looked dense and 
heavy upon one side, while the other was hght, and relieved 
by glancing trunks and branches. Deep shadows fell on 
water, with shining strips of silver between, and except the 
chafing of the lake upon the outer shores, and the prolonged 
moan of the howling monkey, there was not a sound to dis- 
turb the silence. It is true our men talked long, but it was 
in a low tone, as if they feared to disturb the general quiet. 
They finally stretched themselves on their benches, and my 
companions wrapped themselves in their blankets and com- 
posed themselves for the night. I did so also, but I could 
not sleep ; it was not the holy calm of the scene — the remem- 
brance of dear friends, or those dearer than friends — it was 
no sentimental revery, no pressure of official cares, that 

kept me awake that night, — but it was "las pulgas," the fleas 

30 



466 NICAEAGUA — rNAEEATIVE. 

from Manuel's Santa Eosa ! They seemed to swarm in mj 
clothing. I waited in vain for them to get their fill and be 
quiet, but they were insatiable, and almost maddened me. 
I got out upon the pineta, and there, under the virgin moon, 
carefully removed every article of my apparel, and lashed 
and beat it angrily over the sides, in the hope of shaking off 
the vipers. The irritation which they had caused was unen- 
durable, and, overcoming all dread of alligators and fever, I 
got over the side, and cooled myself in the water. I did not 
go beneath the chopa again, but wrapped my blankets 
around me, and coiled myself on the pineta. 

I had just fallen into a doze, when I was awakened hj the 
clattering of oars, and found Juan, with his flaming, flutter- 
ing shirt, standing over me at the rudder. It was about two 
o'clock, and as the wind had abated a little, our patron 
seized upon the opportunity to run down to Zapatero. He 
had no notion, in which I agreed with him, of attempting 
the trip with a light boat, in the midst of the fierce northers 
which prevail at this season of the year. I had been a little 
nervous about the business from the start, for I had spent 
one night upon this lake which I am not likely to forget, — 
and had exacted a promise from the men to load in stones, 
at the islands, by way of ballast. They made a show of 
compliance, and next morning I succeeded in finding some 
twenty -five or thirty small stones deposited near the first 
mast, weighing in all, perhaps, two hundred pounds ! 

A short spell at the oars, and we were outside of the island. 
A broad bay stretched dimly inwards towards the city of 
Nicaragua ; and directly before us, at the distance of twenty 
miles, rose the high, irregular island of Zapatero; beyond 
which a stationary mass of silvery clouds showed the posi- 
tion of the majestic volcanic cones of the great island of 
Ometepec. The wind was still strong and the waves high, 
and the boat tumbled about with an unsteady motion. 
Amidst a great deal of confusion the sails were raised — sail.-i 



A NIGHT VOYAGE. 467 

large enough for an Indiaman, for tlie marineros of Lake 
Nicaragua consider that everything depends on the size of 
the canvas. The " Car lota " was schooner-rigged, and no 
sooner was she brought to the wind, than her sails filled, and 
she literally bounded forward like a race-horse. She heeled 
over until her guards touched the water, precipitating the 
Dr., who insisted on remaining within the chopa, from one 
side to the other, amidst guns, books, blankets, pistols, bot- 
tles, and all the et ceteras of a semi-pleasure excursion. But, 
as I have said, he was a philosopher, swore a little, rubbed 
his shins, and braced himself crosswise. I remained outside, 
and hung tightly to the upper guards. The lull, if it can so 
be called, under which we had started, was only temporary. 
Before we had accomplished a tenth of the distance to the 
island, the wind came on to blow with all its original 
violence. The waters fairly boiled around us, and hissed 
and foamed beneath our stern. I cried to Juan, who was 
struggling at the rudder, to take in sail, for the canvas almost 
touched the water, and seemed really bursting with the strain, 
but he responded " too late," and braced himself with his 
shoulder against the tiller, holding with both hands to the 
guards. I expected every moment that we would go over,— 
but on, onward, we seemed actually to fly. The outlines of 
Zapatero grew every moment more distinct, and little islands 
before undistinguished came into view. As we neared them, 
the wind lulled again, and we breathed freer when we dashed 
nnder the lee of the little island of Chancha, and threw out our 
anchor close to the shore. " Holy Mary," said Juan, as he 
wiped the sweat from his forehead, " the devils are out in 
the lake to-night !" We had made upwards of twenty miles 
in less than two hours. 

I crept within the chopa, where the Dr. was rubbing his 
bruises with brandy, and slept until aroused by the loud 
barking of dogs. The sun was up ; we were close to a little 
patch of cleared land, upon one side of which, half-hidden 



NICARAGUA — ^NAERATIVE. 

among tlie trees, was a single hut. The owner, his wife, his 
children, and his dogs, were down on the shores, and all 
seemed equally curious to know the object of our sudden 
visit. Juan frightened them with an account of a terrible 
revolution, how he was flying from the dangers of the main, 
and advised the islander to keep a sharp look-out for his 
safety. The Dr., however, delivered the poor man from 
his rising fears, and ordered Juan to put on his shirt and pull 
across the channel to Zapatero. An inviting, calm harbor 
was before us, but we were separated from it by a channel 
five hundred yards broad, through which the compressed 
wind forced the waters of the lake with the utmost violence. 
It seemed as if a great and angry river was rushing with 
irresistible fury past us. A high, rocky, projecting point of 
Zapatero in part intercepted the current below us, against 
which the water dashed with a force like that of the ocean, 
throwing the spray many feet up its rocky sides. The men 
hesitated in starting, but finally braced themselves in their 
seats, and pushed into the stream. The first shock swept us 
resistlessly before it, but the men pulled with all their force, 
under a volley of shouts from Juan, who threw up his arms 
and stamped on his little quarter-deck like a madman. It 
was his way of giving encouragement. The struggle was 
long and severe, and we were once so near the rocks that the 
recoiling spray fell on our heads ; but we finally succeeded 
in reaching the little, sheltered bay of which I have spoken, 
and, amidst the screams of the thousand waterfowls which we 
disturbed, glided into a snug little harbor, beneath a spread- 
ing tree, the bow of our boat resting on the sandy shore. 
" Here at last," cried M., and bounded ashore. I seized 
a pistol and sword, and followed, and leaving the Dr. and 
the men to prepare coflfee and breakfast, started in com- 
pany with Manuel to see the ^^frailes" Manuel was armed 
with a double-barrelled gun, for this island has no inhabit- 
ants, and is proverbial for the number of its wild animals. 



THE ISLAND OF ZAPATEEO. 469 

■wiiicli find a fit liome in its lonely fastnesses. I carried a 
first-class Colt in one liand, and a short, heavy, two-edged 
Eoman sword in the other, as well for defence as for cutting 
away the limbs, vines, and bushes which impede every step 
in a tropical forest. Manuel said it was but a few squares 
to the ^^f miles" but we walked on and on, through patches 
of forest and over narrow savannahs, covered with coarse, 
high, and tangled grass, until I got tired. Manuel looked 
puzzled; he did not seem to recognize the land-marks. 
When he had been there before, it was in the midst of the dry 
season, and the withered grass and underbrush, stripped of 
leaves, afforded no obstruction to the view. Still he kept on, 
but my enthusiasm, between an empty stomach and a long 
walk, was fast giving place to violent wrath towards Manuel, 
.when suddenly that worthy dropped his gun, and uttering 
a scream, leaped high in the air, and turning, dashed past 
me with the speed of an antelope. I cocked my pistol, and 
fetood on my guard, expecting that nothing less than a tiger 
would confront me. But I was spared the excitement of an 
adventure, and nothing making its appearance, I turned to 
look for Manuel. He was rolling in the grass like one pos- 
sessed, and rubbing his feet and bare legs with a most ruefal 
expression of face. He had trodden on a bees' nest, and as 
he had taken off his breeches, to avoid soiling them, before 
starting, I " improved " the occasion to lecture him on the 
impropriety of such practices on the part of a Christian, a 
householder, and the father of a family. I was astonished, I 
said, that he, a gentleman past the middle age of life, the 
owner of two islands, should make such a heathen of him- 
self as to go without his breeches. And as I have heard the 
special interposition of Providence urged on no more im- 
portant occasions than this, at home, I felt authorized in 
assuring him that it was clearly a signal mark of Divine 
displeasure. Manuel appeared to be much edified, and as I 
was better protected than himself, he prevailed upon me to 



470 NICAEAGUA — NARRATIVE. 

recover Ms gun, wliereiipon, taking another path, we pushed 
ahead. 

After toiling for a long time, we came suddenly npon the 
edge of an ancient crater of great depth, at the bottom of 
which was a lake of yellowish green, or sulphurous color, the 
water of which Manuel assured me was salt. This is proba- 
bly the fact, but I question much if any human being ever 
ventured down its rocky and precipitous sides. Manuel now 
seemed to recognize his position, and turning sharp to the 
left, we soon came to a broad, level area, covered with im- 
mense trees, and with a thick undergrowth of grass and 
bushes. There were here some large, irregular mounds com- 
posed of stones, which I soon discovered were artificial. 
Around these Manuel said the frailes were scattered, and he 
commenced cutting right and left with his machete. I fol- 
lowed his example, and had not proceeded more than five 
steps, when I came upon an elaborately sculptured statue, 
still standing erect. It was about the size of the smaller one 
discovered at Pensacola, but was less injured, and the face 
had a mild and benignant aspect. It seemed to smile on me 
as I tore aside the bushes which covered it, and appeared 
almost ready to speak. {See Monuments of Zapatero^ No. 1.) 
In clearing further, but a few feet distant, I found another 
fallen figure. From Manuel's shouts I knew that he had 
discovered others, and I felt assured that many more would 
reward a systematic investigation — and such I meant to 
make. 

I was now anxious to return to the boat, so as to bring my 
entire force on the ground ; and calling to Manuel, I started. 
Either Manuel took me a shorter path than we came, or else I 
was somewhat excited and didn't mind distances ; at any rate, 
we were there before I expected. The sailors listened curi- 
ously to our story, and Juan, like Pedro before him, whis- 
pered that " los Americanos son diablos.^' He had lived, man 
and boy, for more than forty years within sight of the island. 




IDOLS AT ZAPATEEO.— No. 1. 



THE MONUMENTS OP ZAPATERO. 473 

and had many times been blockaded by bad weatlier in tlie 
very harbor where we now were, and yet he had never seen, 
nor ever so much as heard that there were "/ra^7es " there ! 

During our absence, a weather-bound canoe, with Indians 
from Ometepec, discovering our boat, had put in beside us. 
They were loaded with fruit for Granada, and " walked into" 
our good graces by liberal donations of papayas, maranons, 
oranges, pomegranates, zapotes, etc. They were small but well- 
built men, with more angular features than the Indians of 
Leon, and betraying a different stock. It will be seen, as 
we proceed, that they are of Mexican origin. All had their 
heads closely shaved, with the exception of a narrow fringe 
of hair around the forehead, extending from one ear to the 
other — a practice which has become very general among the 
people. I admired their well-formed limbs, and thought 
how serviceable half-a-dozen such stout fellows would be 
amongst the monuments, and incontinently invited them to 
accompany us, which invitation they accepted, much to my 
satisfaction. 

Leaving a couple of men to watch the boats, I marshalled 
my forces, and set out for the "/7•a^7es." We mustered 
twenty -four strong, a force which I assured myself was suf- 
ficient to set up once more the fallen divinities, and possibly 
to remove some of them. As we went along, we cleared a 
good path, which, before we left, 'began to have the appear- 
ance of a highway. 

While M. commenced drawing the monument which still 
stood erect, I proceeded with the men to clear away the 
bushes and set up the others. I knew well that the only 
way to accomplish anything was to keep up the first excite- 
ment, which I did by liberal dispensations of aguardiente — 
the necessities of the case admitted of no alternative. The 
first monument which claimed our attention was a well- 
cut figure, seated crouching on the top of a high, ornamented 
pedestal. The hands were crossed below the knees, the 



474 NICAEAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 

head bent forward, and the eyes widely opened, as if gazing 
upon some object upon the ground before it. A mass of 
stone rose from between the shoulders, having the appearance 
of a conical cap when viewed from the front. {See Plate 2, 
No. 2.) It was cut with great boldness and freedom, from a 
block of basalt, and had suffered very little from the lapse 
of time. 

A hole was dug to receive the lower end, ropes were fast- 
ened around it, our whole force was disposed to the best ad- 
vantage, and at a given signal, I had the satisfaction of seeing 
the figure rise slowly and safely to its original position. No 
sooner was it secured in place, than our sailors gave a great 
shout, and forming a double ring around it, commenced an 
outrageous dance, in the pauses of which they made ,J;he old 
woods ring again with their favorite ^'' hoo-pah f^ I did not 
like to have my brandy effervesce in this manner, for I knew 
the excitement, once cooled, could not be revived ; so I broke 
into the circle, and dragging out Juan by main force, led him 
to the next monument, which Manuel called " El Canon," 
the Cannon. 

It was a m^assive, cylindrical block of stone, about as long 
and twice as thick as the twin brother of the famous "peace- 
maker," now in the Brooklyn navy-yard. It was encircled 
by raised bands, elaborately ornamented ; and upon the top. 
was the lower half of a smliU and neatly cut figure. In the 
front of the pedestal were two niches, deeply sunk, and regu- 
lar in form, connected by a groove. They were evidently 
symbolical. Notwithstanding the excitement of the men, 
they looked dubiously upon this heavy mass of sculpture ; 
but I opened another bottle of aguardiente, and taking one 
of the levers myself, told them to lay hold. A hole was dug, 
as in the former case, but we could only raise the stone by 
degrees, by means of thick levers. After much labor, by 
alternate lifting and blocking, we got it at an angle of forty- 
five degrees, and there it appeared determined to stay. "Wy 







1 DOLS AT ZAPATERO, N^.s 2,3. 



LITH.OF EN DICOTT% CO. N. Y. 



FA CE P. 4-1 4-. 



MONUMENTS OF ZAPATERO. 475 

passed ropes around tlie adjacent trees, and placed /aZfe above 
it, and when all was ready, and every man at his post, I gave 
the signal for a coujp de main. The ropes creaked and tight- 
ened, every muscle swelled, but the figure did not move. 
It was a critical moment ; the men wavered ; I leaped to the 
ropes, and shouted at the top of my voice, ^^ Arriba/ arriba! 
viva Gentro America /" The men seemed to catch new spirit ; 
there was another and simultaneous effort, — ^the mass yield- 
ed; ^'■poco mas, muchachos r^ "a little more, boys!" and up 
it went, slowly, but up, up, until, tottering dangerously, it 
settled into its place and was secured. The men were silent 
for a moment, as if astonished at their own success, and then 
broke out in another paroxysm of ardiente and excitement. 
But this time each man danced on his own account, and 
-strove to outdo his neighbor in wild gesticulation. I inter- 
fered, but they surrounded me, instead of the figure, and 
danced more madly than before, amidst "vivas" for North 
America. But the dance ended with my patience, — luckily 
not before. By a judicious use of aguardiente, I managed 
to keep up their spirits, and by four o'clock in the afternoon, 
we had all the monuments we could find, ten in number, 
securely raised and ready for the draughtsman. Besides 
these, we afterwards succeeded in discovering a number of 
others, — amounting in all to fifteen perfect, or nearly perfect 
ones, besides some fragments. 

The men, exhausted with fatigue, disposed themselves in 
groups around the statues, or stretched their bodies at length 
amongst the bushes. Wearied myself, but with the com- 
placency of a father contemplating his children, and without 
yet venturing to speculate upon our singular discoveries, I 
seated myself upon a broad, flat stone, artificially hollowed 
in the centre, and gave rein to fancy. The bushes were 
cleared away, and I could easily make out the positions of 
the ruined teocalU, and take in the whole plan of the great 
aboriginal temple. Over all now towered immense trees, 



476 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 

shrouded in long robes of grey moss, which hung in masses 
from every hmb, and swayed solemnly in the wind. I 
almost fancied them in mourning for the departed glories of 
the place. In fact, a kind of superstitious feeling, little in 
consonance with the severity of philosophical investigation, 
began to creep over me. Upon one side were steep cliffs, 
against which the waters of the lake chafed with a subdued 
roar, and upon the other was the deep, extinct crater, with 
its black sides and sulphurous lake ; it was in truth a weird 
place, not unfittingly chosen by the aboriginal priesthood as 
the theatre of their strange and gloomy rites. While en- 
gaged in these fanciful reveries, I stretched myself, almost 
unconsciously, upon the stone where I was sitting. My 
limbs fell into place as if the stone had been made to receive 




THE STONE OP SAOEIPICE. 



them, — my head was thrown back, and mj breast raised ; a 
second, and the thought flashed across my mind with start- 
ling force — '^ the stone of sacrifice /" I know not whether it 
was the scene, or the current of my thoughts, perhaps both, 
but I leaped up with a feeling half of alarm. I observed the 
stone more closely ; it was a rude block altered by art, and 
had beyond question been used as a stone of sacrifice. I 
afterwards found two others, clearly designed for the same 
purpose, but they had been broken. 

The relative positions of the mounds or ruined Teocalli, 
as also of the monuments, are shown in the subjoined 
Plan. These mounds "are made up of loose, unhewn stones, 
heaped together in apparent confusion. But although they 
now show no evidence of the fact, yet it is undoubted that 
they were originally regular in their forms ; for we have the 



MONUMENTS OF ZAPATERO. 



471 



direct assurances of tlie early clironiclers, that tlie adoratorios 
or altars of the aboriginal inhabitants were conical and pyra- 
midal in shape, like those of Mexico, and like them, ascended 
by steps. It was upon the summits of these that sacrifices 







r 



<;. 








aJ 



\ H 1 A Cm, a:: 



PLAN OF MONUMENTS AT ZAPATERO. 



were performed. Their present dilapidation is probably due 
no less to the hostile zeal of the conquerors who " broke 
down the altars " of the Indians, than to the destroying as- 
saults of time and the elements. I attempted to penetrate 
into one of them, (J., in tlie Plan^) and removed a great quan- 
tity of stones, to the depth of several feet, at imminent risk 
of being stung by scorpions, but discovered nothing to repay 
me for my toil. The whole seemed to be a mass of rough 
stones, largely intermixed with broken pottery, some of the 
fragments of which were not only of fine material, but showed 
that the vessels of which they were once parts had been 
elaborately painted in brilliant colors, still retaining their 
original freshness and beauty. These mounds do not seem 
to have been arranged with any regularity in respect to 
each other; neither do the monuments themselves display 
any apparent design in their relative positions. It may bo 



478 NICARAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 

questioned, however, whetlier tlie latter liave not been re- 
moved from the places where they originally stood. 

No. 1. — This was the first stone which I discovered, and 
is very faithfully exhibited in the engraving facing page 52. 
It is remarkable as being one of the two which were found 
standing. I think it more than probable that it has been 
placed in that position by the Indians or others who have 
lately visited the spot. It projects six feet above the ground, 
in which it is probably planted about two feet. It is a flat 
slab, thirty-two inches broad by eighteen in thickness. The 
back is notched, something like that of the figure which I 
have already described as having been obtained from Momo- 
tombita, and planted in the plaza of Leon. 

Nos. 2 AND 3. — The first of these I have already described 
on page 54. Its position is indicated by the corresponding 
number of the plan, to the right of mound H. Near it was 
found a smaller and very rude figure, {No. 3 of Plan), which 
is shown lying at the foot of No. 2 in the plate. It represents 
a man much distorted in figure, with the head bent down 
upon one side, and resting on the left shoulder, the arms 
crossed, and the legs flexed together. The design seems to 
have been suggested by the natural shape of the stone, which 
is very little modified by art. 

Nos. 4 AND 5. — Athough not the tallest. No. 4 was the 
heaviest figure of the group ; and, as I have already said 
(p. 474), was raised to an erect position with great difficul- 
ty. It is nine feet in height, and eight in circumference at 
the largest part, cylindrical in form, and encircled by raised, 
ornamented bands. The singular niches in front I have 
already alluded to, but have no conception of their design. 
When found, the preposterous figure on the top was imper- 
fect, but the various fragments were afterwards discovered, 
and I was able perfectly to restore it, with the exception of 
a portion of the face. It is represented seated upon a low 
block, which has a kind of back, like that of a chair. The 




DDLS AT ZAPATLRO,N°s 4-,5 



LIT H. OFENDICOTT h-CO.N .Y. 



FACE P. ^7r 



• ' 




IDOLS AT ZAPATER0,No.s6,7 



LITH.Or ENOICOTT &. CO. N Y. 



FACE P. 4-7 9. 



MONUMENTS OF ZAPATERO. 479 

top of the cylinder also shelves in from the circumference. 
Neither of these features can be exhibited in the engraving. 
It will be observed that the head forms a cross, a feature 
which occurs in some of the other monuments at the same 
place, and which recalls to mind the repeated declaration of 
the early Catholic priests, that the sign of the cross was of fre- 
quent occurrence amongst the sacred symbols of Yucatan 
and Central America. It is impossible to resist the convic- 
tion, that this unique little figure, with its monstrously dis- 
proportioned head, was symbolical in its design, and proba- 
bly ranked high amongst the objects of the ancient worship. 
More labor seems to have been expended upon its cylindrical 
pedestal than upon any of the others. The whole is sculp- 
tured from a single, solid block of basalt, of great hardness. 
The niches in front are cut with all the clearness and pre- 
cision of modern art. 

Near the figure just described was found another {No. 
5 of Plan\ which is shown in the same Plate. It is however 
of an entirely different character ; and, as I have elsewhere 
said, represents a Silenus looking personage, with a large ab- 
domen, reclining in a seat, which has also a high back, as 
will be seen by reference to the engraving. \ The features of 
the face are large, and expressive of great complacency. The 
head seems to have been crowned in like manner with No. 1, 
but the conical projection has been broken off and lost. The 
hands rest upon the thighs ; but at the elbows, the arms are 
detached from the body. The point of view from which the 
sketch was taken does not permit this feature to be shown. 
Below the figure, and between the legs and the seat upon 
which it principally rests, the stone is artificially perforated. 
The whole is cut with great boldness, and has a striking 
effect. Our men caUed it "el Gordo," "the Fat," and it 
might pass for one of Hogarth's beer drinkers petrified. 

Nos. 6 AND 7. — This first figure (No. 6) is amongst the 
most striking of the whole group. It is twelve feet high, 

4 



480 NICAEAGUA — ^NARRATIVE, 

sculptured from a single block, and also represents a figure 
seated, as before descibed, upon a bigb pedestal. In common 
witb No. 4, tbe stone, behind tbe bead, is cut in the form 
of a cross. The limbs are heavy, and the face equally char- 
acteristic with that of ISTo. 5, but grave and severe. 

Near the mound, or ruined teocalli, B, and amongst the 
debris at its base, I found the statue represented in the same 
Plate with No. 6. It had been broken, and the lower part, 
including its pedestal, if it ever had one, and part of the legs, 
could not be found. The face had evidently suffered from 
intentional violence, and the monstrous head and jaws which 
surmounted the head of the figure had also; been much in- 
jured. The carving, in this instance, was comparatively 
rough, and the figure produced upon me the impression that 
it was of higher antiquity than the others. 

A little to the right of this, on the slope of the mound B, 
about one-third of the way to its summit, stood another fig- 
ure, somewhat smaller than the last, and half buried amongst 
the stones of the mound. It was so firmly fixed, as to induce 
me to believe that it occupied its original position. Like the 
one last mentioned, it had suffered much from violence, and, 
the stone being defective, from exposure. I could only 
make out that it represented some animal springing upon 
the head and back of a human figure, very nearly in the 
same manner as represented in No. 10. I did not think it 
worth sketching. Its place is shown by the figure 8, in the 
plan. 

]v^o. 9. — 'While cutting a path around the mound indicated 
by the letter 0, which was covered in part by an immense 
fallen tree, and overgrown with a tangled mass of small trees, 
vines, and bushes, I came upon a flat slab of stone, resem- 
bling a tomb-stone. It had been broken, probably about in 
the middle, and the upper half, which is represented in the 
accompanying engraving, alone remained. This fragment is 
about five feet in length, by three in greatest breadth. The 



MONUMENTS AT ZAPATERO. 



481 



sculpture, differing from any tiling else found in the island, 
is in bas-relief, and represents the upper half of a human 
figure, with an extraordinary head, which appears to be sur- 
mounted by a kind of skull-cap or casque. The face bears 




IIOITUIIENTS AT ZAPATEEO. — NO. 9. 



slight resemblance to humanity ; the eyes are represented by 
two holes deeply sunk in the stone, and the tongue seems to 
project from the mouth, and to rest upon a kind of flap which 
hangs upon the breast. It appeared to me that the design 
was to represent a mask ; and the whole probably had a pro- 
found symbolical significance. Manuel pronounced this to 

81 



482 NICARAGUA — ^NAERATIVE. 

be one of tlie "frailes," and said that there was formerly an- 
other, in the attitude of prayer, in the vicinity of this. After 
much search, we discovered it, beneath the fallen tree of which 
I have spoken, but it was impossible to reach it. The tree 
was far too large to be cut away with the rude native axes ; 
I tried to burn it, but without success, and was obliged to 
leave the figure to be described by some future traveller. 

No. 10. — 'This figure, which is now in the Museum of the 
Smithsonian Institution at Washington, formerly stood at 
the base of the mound A. ^It represents a man, squatted 
upon his haunches, after the common manner of the Indians 
to this day, with one hand at his side, and the other placed 
upon his breast. The head is held erect, and the forehead 
is encircled by a kind of ornamented fillet. The features are 
unlike those of any other of the figures found here ; indeed, 
each one had its individual characteristics, which could not 
be mistaken. Upon the back of this statue, its fore paws 
resting upon the shoulders, and its hind ones upon the hips, 
is the representation of some wild animal, grasping in its 
mouth the back part of the head of the figure. It seems in- 
tended to represent a tiger. 

No. 11. — In the vicinity of the mound D, were several 
small and comparatively rude figures. No. 11, shown in 
the accompanying engraving, is sculptured upon the convex 
side of a slab of stone, about five feet in length by eighteen 
inches broad. The figure in this instance also is represented 
seated. The outlines of the limbs are alone indicated. The 
head, however, is cut in rather high relief. The expression 
of the face is serious ; the forehead is bound by a band or 
fillet ; and is surmounted by a rudely represented head-dress. 
The hands rest upon the abdomen, and support what appears 
to be a human head, or the mask of a human face. I 
brought this figure away, and it is also deposited in the Mu- 
seum of the Smithsonian Institution. 

No. 12. — This is also a very rude figure. It consists of a 




IDOLS AT ZAPATEKO.-No. 10. 



MONUMENTS OF ZAPATERO. 



485 



rough block of stone, slightly modified by art, and seems de- 
signed to represent a human body with the head or mask of 
an animal. The mouth is widely opened, exhibiting long 
tusks or teeth. The stone projects some distance above this 




IDOLS AT ZAPATERO.— NOS. 11 AND 12. 

head, and has upon each side a round, cup-shaped hole, 
smoothly cut in the stone. The representation of a human 
head surmounts the whole. 

No. 13. — This is a curious little figure, not more than 
three feet and a half high. The original shape of the stone 
is retained, and the art expended upon it is but trifling. 
The engraving on the next page will sufficiently explain its 



486 



NICARAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 



various features. The position of No. 14 is indicated in the 
plan, but it is so much defaced that no engraving of it is con- 
sidered necessary. 




:ONUMENT AT Z A P A T E E 0. — NO. 13. 



N"o. 15. — Amongst the heaps of stone surrounding the 
mound situated at the extreme left of the group, were found 
a couple of statues, very elaborately carved. They were ex- 
tricated with great dif&culty, but amply repaid the labor. 

The one first uncovered is a colossal representation of 
what is here called a " tiger," seated upon its haunches. It 
is very boldly sculptured. The head is thrown forward, the 
mouth open, and the entire attitude and expression that of 
great ferocity. Indeed, as it stood erect, beneath the gloomy 



16. 



IS. 




DDLS AT ZAPATER0,N0,M5,!6 



LITH.OF ENDICOTT & CO. N .Y. 



FACE. P. 4-86". 



MONUMENTS OF ZAPATERO. 487 

shadows of the great trees which surrounded it, I easily com- 
prehended the awe with which it probably was regarded by 
the people, in whose religious system it entered as the signifi- 
cant emblem of a power mightier than that of man. The 
base or pedestal, it will be observed, is ornamented in the 
usual manner. A considerable portion of it, two feet or 
more, is buried in the ground. The entire height is eight feet. 

No. 16. — This statue was discovered not far from No. 15, 
and is one of the most remarkable of the entire series. It 
is upwards of twelve feet in height, and represents a very 
well-proportioned figure, seated upon a kind of square throne, 
raised five feet from the ground. Above the head is a 
monstrous symbolical head, similar to those which surmount 
the statues in the island of Pensacola. The resemblance to 
some of the symbolical heads in the ancient Mexican rituals 
cannot be overlooked ; and I am inclined to the opinion that 
I shall be able to identify all these figures, as I believe I 
already have some of them, with the divinities of the Aztec 
Pantheon. The surmounting head is two feet eight inches 
broad, and is smoothly and sharply worked. 

The arms of this figure, as in the case of No. 5, are detached 
from the body for some distance above and below the elbows 
The face has suffered from violence, and the statue itself is 
broken in the middle. 

Nos. 17 AND 18 of the plan are oblong stones, modified 
by art, and were unquestionably the altars whereon human 
sacrifices were made. There is a hollow place sculptured 
nearly in the centre of each stone, which it is not unreasonable 
to suppose was designed to receive the blood of the victims. 

No. 19. — This is a basaltic rock deeply imbedded in the 
earth. The part which projects above the surface is some- 
what rounded, and is covered with ornamental figures, sculp- 
tured in the stone. Those which could be distinctly traced 
are given in the accompanying engraving. They are cut with 
great regularity to the depth of from one-fiffch to one-third of 



488 



NICARAGUA— NAREATIVE. 



an inch, by about half an inch in breadth. They do not 
appear to form any intelligible figure. 

The shape of this rock favors the suggestion that it was 
also used as a stone of sacrifice. 




MONUMENTS AT ZAPATEEO. — NO. 19. 

Besides these, I discovered many fragments of other 
figures, of which, however, I could not make out the design. 
Some of these fragments were found at the very edge of the 
extinct crater of which I have spoken, and which, as will be 
seen by reference to the supplementary plan, is only about 
one hundred yards distant from this group of ruins. It is 
not improbable that, in their zeal to destroy every trace of 
aboriginal idolatry, the early Spaniards threw many of these 
monuments into the lake. None except those which, from 
their massiveness, are not easily broken or defaced, were 
found to be entire. All the others had been entirely broken 
or very much injured. Not a few have been removed at vari- 
ous times. Those which I have described as still existing in 
Grranada were obtained here ; and it is said that some of the 
most elaborate have been taken by the Indians within a 
comparatively late period, and either buried or set up in 
secluded places in the forest. Manuel said that when he was 
there, about ten years ago, he noticed a number which were 
not now to be found, and which he was confident had been 
removed, or were so covered up with grass and bushes as 



MONUMENTS OF ZAPATERO, 489 

not to be discovered. I myself am satisfied tliat other figures 
exist here, and at other points on the island, which might be 
found later in the dry season, when the grass and underbrush 
are withered, and may be destroyed by burning. When I speak 
of grass and underbrush, it is not to be supposed that I mean 
anything like what in the United States would be meant by 
these terms. Around the large mound A, there were few 
trees, but the whole space was covered with bushes and grass ; 
the stems of the latter were as thick as the httle finger, and 
if extended would measure from ten to fifteen feet in length. 
When matted together they are like tangled ropes, and are 
almost impenetrable. The explorer has literally to cut his 
way inch by inch, if he would advance at all. 

The dry season had just commenced at the time of my 
visit, and the grass was only sufficiently withered to be twice 
as tough as when perfectly green, without being dry enough 
to burn. I offered rewards for the discovery of "piedras," 
but the men preferred to lounge in the shade to clearing 
away the undergrowth ; and although the Dr. and myself 
worked constantly, we discovered no new ones after the 
second day of oyj? stay on the island. Manuel was certain 
that there were^ne or two small, but very elaborate ones, to 
the right ojHhe great mound A. I commenced clearing there 
on the third day, but had not proceeded far, when I was start- 
led by the stroke of a rattlesnake, and the next instant dis- 
covered the convolutions of his body amongst the tangled 
grass. I only saw that he was a monster, as thick as my 
arm ; and as he had the advantage in a fight amongst the 
grass, I beat a retreat, and resigned the grassy citadel to his 
snakeship. I was not particulary ambitious to resume my 
explorations in that direction, and the Indians, who entertain 
a profound dread of " cascabelas," utterly refused to go near 
the spot. 

There is a part of the island called "Punta Colorada," 
where the Indians told me there were some remains, and 



490 KICAEAGUA — ^NAREATIVE. 

where, upon excavation, many ancient vases were to be dis- 
covered. Some of these, from their accounts, contained the 
bones and ashes of the dead. This point was on the exposed 
part of the island ; and with the wind from the north, and a 
rough, rocky coast, it was impossible to reach it by water. As 
to going over land, the thing was quite out of the question. 
High volcanic cliffs, walls of lava, and deep fissures and 
extinct craters intervened. 

In respect to the monuments discovered here, it will be 
observed that, although the style of workmanship is the 
same throughout, each figure has a marked individuality, 
such as might pertain to divinities of distinct attributes and 
different positions in the ancient Pantheon. The material, 
in every case, is a black basalt, of great hardness, which, with 
the best of modern tools, can only be cut with dif&culty. 
Like those described by Mr. Stephens, at Copan, these 
statues do not seem to have been originally placed upon the 
Teocallis^ but erected around their bases. They are less in 
size than those of Copan, and are destitute of the heavy, and 
apparently incongruous mass of ornaments with which those 
are loaded. They are plain, simple, and severe ; and although 
not elaborately finished, are cut with considerable freedom 
and skill. There is no attempt at drapery in any of the 
figures ; they are what the dilettanti call nudities^ and afford 
strong corroborative proof of the existence of that primitive 
worship to which I have elsewhere alluded, as of common 
acceptance amongst the semi-civilized nations of America. 

There are reasons for believing that these monuments were 
erected by the people who occupied the country, at the time 
of the Conquest by the Spaniards, in 1522. I am not dis- 
posed to assign to them a much higher antiquity. Enter- 
taining this opinion, I reserve what further I have to say 
concerning them, as also concerning the others which fell 
under my notice in this country, for the chapters on the 
Aboriginal Inhabitants of Nicaragua. 



CHAPTBE XYIII. 

RETURN TO GRANADA — A BALL IN HONOR OP " EL MTNISTRO" — THE FUNAMBTJLOS 
— DEPARTURE FOR RIVAS OR NICARAGUA — HILLS OF SCOBIiE — THE INSANE 
GIRL AND THE BROWN SAMARITAN — A WAY-SIDE IDOL — ^MOUNTAIN LAKES AND 
STRANGE BIRDS — A SUDDEN STORM — TAKE REFUGE AMONG THE " TAQUE- 
ROS" — INHOSPITABLE RECEPTION — NIGHT RIDE ; DARKNESS AND STORM — 
FRIENDLY INDIANS — INDIAN PUEBLO OF NANDYME — THE HACIENDA OF JESUS 
MARIA — AN ASTONISHED MAYORDOMO — HOW TO GET A SUPPER — JICORALES 
OCHOMOGO — RIO GIL GONZALES — THE "oBRAJe" — RIVAS AND ITS DEPEN- 
DENCIES SENOR HURTADO HIS CACAO PLANTATION THE CITY EFFECT OF 

EARTHQUAKES AND OF SHOT — ATTACK OF SOMOZA — ANOTHER AMERICAN — 
HIS ATTEMPT TO CULTIVATE COTTON ON THE ISLAND OP OMETEPEC MUR- 
DER OF HIS WIFE — FAILURE OP HIS ENTERPRISE — A WORD ABOUT COTTON 
POLICY — THE ANTIQUITIES OF OMETEPEC — ABORIGINAL BURIAL PLACES — 
FUNERAL VASES — RELICS OF METAL — GOLDEN IDOLS — A COPPER MASK — 
ANTIQUE POTTERY A FROG IN VERD ANTIQUE — SICKNESS OF MY COMPAN- 
IONS — THE PUEBLO OP SAN JORGE — SHORE OP THE LAKE — FEATS OP HORSE- 
MANSHIP — LANCE PRACTICE — VISIT POTOSI — ANOTHER REMARKAlBLE RELIC 
OF ABORIGINAL SUPERSTITION — THE VALLEY OF BRITA — ^AN INDIGO ESTATE — 
CULTIVATION OF INDIGO — VILLAGE OF BRITA — A DECAYING FAMILY, AND A 
DECAYED ESTATE — ^AN ANCIENT VASE — OBSERVATIONS ON THE PROPOSED 
CANAL — RETURN ALONE TO GRANADA — DESPATCHES — A FORCED MARCH TO 
LEON. 

We spent three days on the island, going early to the 
monuments, and coming late. The weather was delightM ; 
and each night, when we returned to the boat, it was with an 
increased attachment to the place. We had now a broad, 
well-marked path from the shore to the ruins, and the idols 
were becoming familiar acquaintances. The men had given 



492 NICAEAGUA — ^NAERATIVE. 

them names ; one thej called, " Jorohado,^^ " tlie Hump. 
back;" another, " Ojos Grandes,^^ "Big Eyes." 

At night, the picturesque groups of swarthy, half-naked 
men preparing their suppers around fires, beneath the trees, 
in the twilight gloom, or gathered together in busy conver- 
sation in the midst of the boat, after we had anchored off for 
the night, — the changing effects of the sun and moonlight 
upon the water, and the striking scenery around us, — the 
silence and primeval wilderness, — all contributed, apart from 
the strange monuments buried in the forest, to excite 
thoughts and leave impressions not likely to be effaced. 
Our stay passed like a dream, and when we departed, it was 
with a feeling akin to that which we experience in leaving 
old acquaintances and friends. 

We left on the morning of the fourth day. It was Satur- 
day, and I had promised most faithfully to be in Granada to 
attend a grand ball which was to be given in my honor on 
Sunday evening. The wind, which had been blowing a con- 
stant gale on the lake, during our stay at the island, had 
partially subsided, and we succeeded, in consequence, in 
reaching Los Corales about the middle of the afternoon. 
Here we stopped at a large island, strikingly picturesque 
where all were picturesque, covered with lemon, orange, and 
mamey trees, broad plantain walks, and fields of maize 
and melons, where one of the sailors averred there were 
other " piedras antiguas." The owner of the island was 
away, and the boys and women who were left knew nothing 
of the idols, except that they had been buried, — where, they 
could not tell. I asked the mistress if I might carry off 
some of the fine fruit which loaded down the trees. " Como 
nof" why not? was the answer — a common reply in 
Central America, which signifies the fullest assent. The 
marineros did not take the trouble of asking, but helped 
themselves ad libitum, as a matter of course. I inquired of 
Juan, why he did not ask permission to take the fruit, if he 



RETURN TO GRANADA. 493 

desired it; lie looked at me in surprise, and made no answer. 
He would as soon have thought of asking for permission to 
breath the air, or use the water around the island. 

We had another gorgeous sunset amongst the Corales, — 
those faiiy islets, the memory of which seems to me like that 
of a beautiful dream, a vision of the "Isles of the Blest,"— 
and at nine o'clock ran under the lee of the old castle, and 
landed again on the beach of Granada, Here we found an- 
other American, Dr. Clark of Costa Eica, who, wearied of that 
little state, had come to Nicaragua in order that he might see 
more of his countrymen, and relieve the monotony of Cen- 
tral American life. We deposited the spoils which we had 
brought from the island in the house of Monsieur T., a pohte 
and intelligent but very eccentric Frenchman, who lived in 
a little house on the shore of the lake, and then hastened to 
our old quarters in the city. The town was in a great up- 
roar ; it was the anniversary festival of some pet saint ; all 
the bells were clattering, and the plaza was spluttering with 
bombas, of which every boy in town had a supply, to be let 
off on his individual account. They had also " serpientes," 
serpents, which, when fired, started off erratically, darting 
from side to side, amongst people's legs, and in at the doors 
and windows, carrying confusion everywhere, particularly 
amongst the women, who retreated screaming in every direc- 
tion, to the great entertainment of the spectators, and amidst 
the shouts of the boys and loafers in the streets. 

The ball " came off" in the house of Madame B;-, a French 
lady, whose grand sala was one of the largest in the city, 
and therefore selected for the " obsequio." I went at nine 
o'clock, and was received with a flourish of trumpets, by a file 
of soldiers stationed at the arched portal. The sala was very 
tastefully ornamented and lighted. It was already full ; and 
not to be behind the Leoneses in their demonstrations of respect 
for theUnited States, the assemblage all rose upon my en- 
trance J and the Prefect, who introduced me, would have had 



494 NICARAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 

a " viva" or two (d la Hone at tlae Park Theatre, on a certain 
memorable occasion), had I not besought him " por el amor de 
Dios" to refrain. The masculine portion of the assemblage was 
dressed in what was meant to be full European costume, 
but the styles of coats and cravats ran through every mode of 
the last ten years. The females made a better appearance, 
but none of them displayed more style in respect of dress, 
than "Tobillos Gruesos," and the other female attaches of 
Senor Serrate's Company of Funambulos, who were all 
present, including the old lady who swallowed the sword, 
the girl who had turned somersets, and the "eccentric clown 
Simon." The elite of G-ranada had doubtless heard how the 
fashionables of our cities are accustomed to receive squalling 
women, pirouetting Cyprians, and hirsute monsters of the 
masculine gender, remarkable for soiled linen, and redolent 
of gin, which swarm from Europe like locusts upon our 
shores, and were also anxious to evince their appreciation of 
art, in their attentions to "artistes." I flatter myself that 
the " Jovena Catalina" and "El Ministro" were the bright 
particular stars of the evening ; I did the gravity, and she 
the dancing.^ 

At eleven o'clock supper was announced in the " comedor," 
or dining room, which was spread more after the fashion of 
home than anything I had seen since leaving the United 

' Since' the above was written, I have received the little " G-aceta de 
Costa Rica," announcing the complete breaking up of Senor Serrate's 
Company of Funambulos, in consequence of the death of "Tobillos 
G-ruesos," and of the girl who turned somersets. The first died of tetanus, 
or lockjaw, from a slight wound received by the unlucky turning of a 
knife used in some of her feats of dexterity ; and the VoUeadora, a mar- 
tyr to her profession, broke her neck in an attempt to echpse the "Eccen- 
tric Clown Simon." I now feel some compunctions of conscience for my 
allusions to the Jovena's ankles — they were really not so very large — and 
I mean to make amends, by thinking of her hereafter, not as " TobiUos 
Gruesos," but as " La hermosissima Jovena Catalina." 



ANOTHER OBSEQUIO. 495 

States. The cliampagne, however, seemed most popular, 
and the applause with which favorite dances were received, 
after our return to the ball room, it is barely possible had some 
connection with this circumstance. The enthusiasm was at its 
lieight, when "Tobillos Gruesos" and her sister danced "El 
Bolero," and I availed myself of the opportunity to leave, 
which I did unobserved. It was three o'clock when the ball 
broke up, at which time I was tortured out of my slumbers 
by the fearful wailing of half a dozen violins, played by 
unsteady hands, and by C9urtesy called a serenade. 

On the afternoon of the day following the ball, in company 
with Dr. Clark, I set out for the Department Meridional, the 
capital of which is the city of Eivas or Nicaragua. It will 
be remembered that this was the seat of Somoza's insurrection. 
I was desirous of visiting it, not less because it was reported 
to be one of the richest and most fertile portions of the State, 
than because here the attention of the world had been for 
centuries directed, as the most feasible point where the lake 
could be connected with the Pacific, and the grand project of 
water communication between the two great oceans realized. 
Here also was the seat of a Mexican colony, in ancient times, 
where the great cazique, Mquira, had his court ; and upon 
the island of Ometepec, near by, the lineal descendants of 
these Indians, and many monuments of their labor and skill, 
still existed. 

We proposed to go but eight leagues that afternoon, to the 
estate of a propietario, to whose kindness we were com- 
mended. When we started the sky was clear and serene, 
and there was every prospect of a fine evening. We accord- 
ingly jogged along at our ease. Our path lay to the right of 
the Yolcano of Momobacho, over fields of volcanic breccia, 
and amongst the high, conical hills of scoriae, bare of trees, 
but covered with grass, which form so striking features in 
the scenery back of Granada. Around these we found large 
patches of cleared land, now overgrown with rank weeds, 



496 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 

wHch. were anciently indigo and maize estates, but liad been 
abandoned in consequence of the internal commotions of tbe 
country. Beyond these, at about three leagues from Gra- 
nada, we came to a steep hill, where the narrow road, shut in 
by high banks, was nothing more than a thick 'bed of mire, 
mixed with large, loose stones, amongst which our horses 
floundered fearfully. Midway to the summit, where the hill 
forms a kind of shelf, is a copious spring, with a musical 
Indian name, that has escaped my memory. Here were a 
number of the people of the Indian pueblo of Diriomo, 
returning with the proceeds of their marketing from Grranada. 
They were listening with great attention to a white woman, 
evidently insane, whose slight form, delicate hands, and pale 
face, half covered with her long, beautifal hair, contrasted 
strongly with their swarthy lineaments and massive limbs. 
She addressed us vehemently but unintelligibly, as we 
approached. I turned inquiringly to one of the Indians ; 
he touched his finger to his forehead and said, '■'■ Pobrecita^ 
estontaT — "poor thing, she's crazy." I asked the man if 
they would leave her there? "Oh no," he replied, "we 
must take care of her, pobrecita !" And as we slowly toiled 
up the hill, I looked back, and saw this rude Indian tenderly 
leading the poor girl by the hand, as one would lead a child, 
lifting her carefully over the bad places, and carrying her 
little bundle on the top of his own heavy load. 

Upon one side of the road, just at the summit of the hill, we 
came upon a figure, something like those which we had dis- 
covered at the island of Zapatero. It seemed to have been 
more delicately carved than any of those, but was now too 
much injured to enable us to make out its design. It was 
standing erect, and the bushes around it were all cut away. 
I afterwards learned that it had been brought to its present 
position and set up by the Indians of Diriomo, as a bounda- 
ry mark between their lands and those belonging to another 
pueblo. 



SUDDEN STORM. 497 

The ground now became undulating ; we came frequently 
where plantain and corn fields, and occasionally snug cane 
huts, could be discovered at the ends of little vistas, and in 
shadowy dells. Broad paths also diverged here and there 
from the main road, to the numerous Indian towns which 
are situated between the volcano and Masaya, The volcano 
upon this side is not covered with trees, as towards Grana- 
da, and amongst the struggling verdure are broad, black 
strips of lava, and red ridges of scorise and breccia. Upon 
this side also the walls of the crater have been broken down, 
and expose a fearfully rugged orifice like an inverted cone, 
extending more than half way to the base of the mountain. 
Within this it is said there is now a small lake, and another 
in a smaller vent, upon one side of the great crater, at the 
top of the mountain. Around the latter, it is added, there 
are certain varieties of strange birds, which are not to be 
found elsewhere in the State, — stories which the naturalist 
would be more anxious to verify than the antiquarian. 

It is a singular fact that, under the lee of this volcano 
hardly a day in the year passes, except towards the middle 
of the dry season, without rain. This is due to the conden- 
sation of the vapors in the cooler atmosphere at the summit 
of the volcano, and which the prevailing winds drive over 
to the south-west. As a consequence, vegetation is very rank 
here, and the forests are dense and tangled. We got the full 
benefit of one of these volcanic showers. It came upon us 
with hardly a moment's warning. At one instant we were 
riding in the clear sunlight, and the next were enveloped in 
clouds, and drenched with rain, which soon made the roads 
so sHppery that we could not proceed faster than a walk. 
We rode on for half an hour, when the rain relaxed, and the 
clouds lifted a little, but only to reveal the cheerless pros- 
pect of a wet and stormy night. The change of tempera- 
ture in this short interval was also considerable, and I felt 
chilled and uncomfortable. We held a council, and deter- 



498 NICAEAaUA — ^NAEEATIVE. 

mined to take up our quarters at tlae first house or liut we 
miglit reach. We soon discovered the buildings of a cattle 
estate to the left of the " camino real," and rode up to them. 
There were two mud houses, and an immense shed, roofed 
with tiles. Here we found a dozen vaqueros, and we made 
the usual inquiry, if we could " make their house aposada," 
and, for the second time in the country, were met with inci- 
vility. The women of one of the houses had the calentura, 
and there was no room in the other. There was the shed, 
they added : we might go there. I rode up to it and glanced 
under. The sides were all open, and there were a hundred 
or two cows and calves beneath, which had trampled the 
entire floor into a sickening mass of black mire. We felt 
indignant, and after intimating to the black vagabonds who 
stood scowling at us, that they were " hombres sin verguen- 
za," men without shame, which in Nicaragua is the most 
opprobious thing that can be said, we rode off in great wrath. 
Ben, who distrusted the rascals, had employed the time in 
recapping his pistols by way of showing them that he should 
be prepared to meet their attentions, should they take into 
their heads to favor us with any in the woods. I believe he 
privately told the spokesman, who seemed surliest of all, 
that he should delight to have a crack at him. 

It now came on to rain again harder than before, and night 
settled around us, black and cheerless. The ground was so 
slippery that the horses, even when walking, could hardly 
keep their feet. None esce?pt the Dr. had ever been over 
the road, and in the darkness he was not certain that we 
were pursuing the right path. We rode on, nevertheless, 
gloomily enough, for an hour or two, when we discovered a 
light at a little distance from the road, in what appeared to 
be a cleared field. We hastened to it, and found a little col- 
lection of Indian huts, in which the inmates hospitably in- 
vited us to enter. Their quarters were, however, far from 
inviting, and as we were now wet through, and it was only 



INHOSPITABLE EECEPTION. 499 

two leagues furtlier to tlie liacienda where we liad proposed 
to stop, we concluded it was as well to sujffer for a " liorse as 
for a colt," and, engaging one of tlie men to guide us, we 
pushed on. He took us by the best beaten road, through 
the large Indian town of Nandyme, of which we could see 
nothing except long rows of lights shining from the open 
doorways. We would have stopped with the cura, but he 
had gone to Leon, and so we kept to our original purpose. 
Beyond Nandyme the ground was clayey, and our horses 
seemed eyery moment on the verge of falling. It was a pain- 
ful ride, and M., who had a fever coming on, was comically 
nervous, and finally dismounted and swore he wouldn't ride a 
foot farther. We however got him on his horse once more, 
and proceeded. We were an hour and a half in going a single 
league. Finally we saw the light of Jesus Maria's house ; 
our poor horses at once took courage, and carried us to his 
door at a round pace. A dozen mozos were lounging in the 
corridor, whom we told to take care of our horses, and then in- 
quired for the proprietor. But he did not reside here now ; 
he had gone off with his family, and the establishment was in 
the hands of his mayordomo. We requested the men to call 
this person, but they declined, because he was at his prayers, 
and not to be disturbed. This was a small consideration 
with us ; we pushed open the door and entered the sala. At 
one end of the room, suspended above an elevated shelf, 
was a picture of the Virgin, and on the shelf itself two 
miserable tallow candles, just enabling the picture to be seen. 
In front, in the middle of the room, was a long bench, and 
kneeling at this, with their faces directed to the picture, were 
the mayordomo and his family. They did not look round 
when we entered, but continued their devotions, which con- 
sisted in the alternate recitation of a prayer in rhyme, ut- 
tered in a rapid, monotonous voice. At the end of each 
prayer all joined in a kind of refrain, or chorus, and dropped 
a bead on their rosaries. We took off our hats, and stood 



500 NICAEAGUA — ^NAERATIVE. 

still, waiting for tlie end. Happily tlie prayers were short; 
ttey had already been some time at them, and we had not 
long to wait. We had anticipated a cordial welcome, and 
this had kept up our spirits through our uncomfortable ride. 
But the mayordomo did not seem to be at all delighted ; on 
the contrary, he was positively cool, and his sposa, after 
eying us askance for a moment, tossed herself out of the 
room, and slammed the door after her. This conduct deter- 
mined our course, and resolving to carry things with a higb 
hand, we took unceremonious possession. I ordered Ben to 
bring in our saddles and place them in the sala, and to spread 
out the wet saddle-cloths on the best chairs he could find, 
while we tumbled into the hammocks, and bade the '^mayor- 
domo authoritatively to bring us some chocolate. His eyes 
were big with astonishment, and he mechanically gave the 
corresponding order. The chocolate was brought and put 
on the table. We took our seats, but the i)r. was belligerent, 
and bringing his fist down on the " mesa," turned to the 
mayordomo and ejaculated fiercely, ^'■pan! su perro!" — 
'■^ tread I you dog!" Bread came in a twinkling. "Bien! 
carneP^ — "Good! meatP^ and the meat came. I laughed 
outright ; even M., who had been as grave and silent as an 
owl, could not resist a smile, and Ben was ecstatic. 

After supper was over, we began to look out for beds. 
The Dr. and M. concluded to take the two hammocks, Ben the 
table, and then the Dr., turning to the mayordomo, told him 
he wanted the best bed in the house for me. The surly host 
opened a door leading into a little, dirty room, resembling a 
dog kennel, in which was a naked, hide bed, and said I might 
have that. The Dr., I believe, meditated an assault on the 
fellow, but I interfered, and took possession of the den. I 
was wet and tired, and cared little for the elegance of my 
accommodations. I slept soundly, with the exception of 
being once roused by the crowing of a game cock, perched 
on the head-board of my bed. I took him by the legs, cut 



KIDE TO 0CH0M060. 501 

the cord by wliicli lie was tied, and threw liim out of the 
window. He squalled terribly, and I was strongly tempted 
to give his neck a twist, but thought better of it, 

"We were up early in the morning, anxious to get away 
from this inhospitable place. We made the mayordomo 
produce his bill in writing, with all the items, disputed half 
of them, quarrelled with him about a sixpence, and finally 
went off, assuring him, as we had the vaqueros before, that 
he was " a man without shame." 

Beyond this place the country was generally flat, and cov- 
ered with calabash trees, overgrown with parasitic plants, 
which almost concealed the limbs and verdure of the trees 
themselves. The places thus covered, as I have already 
said, are called ^^ jicorales f^ and as the trees are usually scat- 
tered pretty widely apart, they afford very good pasturage 
for cattle. Between the various "jicorales" there were 
swells of land covered with the ordinary forest trees. At 
the distance of two leagues from our inhospitable quarters of 
the night, we came to a singular square structure open at the 
sides, and covered with a tile roof. This we found had been 
erected by the " arrieros," or muleteeres, as a convenient 
lodging place, in their journeys between Nicaragua and Grra- 
nada. The neighboring " jicoral," for most of the year, af- 
forded grass for their animals ; and as for themselves, a cup 
of tiste suf&ced. They had only to swing their hammocks 
between the posts of the shed, light their cigars, and they 
were " put up," at a very cheap rate. At ten o'clock we 
reached the cattle estate of " Ochomogo," situated upon a 
broad stream of the same name, and the largest which we 
had seen in Nicaragua. The place was a wild one, and 
surrounded by a dense forest of large trees. It had once 
been an indigo estate, and the vats in which the indigo had 
been separated still remained, on the slope between the house 
and the stream. We were very kindly received, and break- 
fast was prepared for us with the greatest promptitude. The 



502 NIOAKAGUA — NAEEATIVE. 

mistress of the house was an old lady of great good nature, 
who, learning we were from El Norte, asked us many curious 
questions about our country, and was particularly anxious 
to know about a " Capitan Esmith" (Smith), an American 
sea-captain whom she had once seen in San Juan, many 
year ago, and before its seizure by the English. We told 
her we did not know the " Capitan," which surprised her 
greatly, because Captain Smith was a man very enlightened 
"mwy ^7ws^rac?o," and a big fellow besides. Poor old lady, 
she little imagined the extent of " El Norte," and had no 
conception of the number of "Capitans Esmith" to be found 
there. She had two well-dressed and really handsome 
daughters, who brought us chocolate in the daintiest manner, 
which quite won our hearts by reason of its contrast to that 
of the mayordomo near Nandyme. The Dr. having pre- 
scribed for a sick daughter-in-law,' the mistress at Ochomogo 
declined any payment for our breakfast, — not wholly on ac- 
count of the prescription probably, for I have no doubt she 
meant it when she said, " God forbid that I should take 
money pf the Americans ! are they not jpaisanos, country- 
men?" 

We forded the Eio Ochomogo, but had not proceeded far 
on our way before it commenced raining again, speedily 
making the roads so slippery that we could not advance 
faster that a walk. This was vexatious, but not to be avoid- 
ed; so we protected ourselves as we best could under our 
blankets and ponchos, and received the peltings without 
complaint. Three hours' ride in a forest where the trees 
were larger than any I had yet seen, brought us to an open 
space, resembling a back- woods clearing in our own country. 
•Upon a knoll in the midst stood the house belonging to the 
cattle estate of the family of Chomorro of Grranada, some of 
the younger members of which were there on a visit. They 
pressed us to stop until the next day, but the house was 
small and already crowded, and we were loth to incommode 



THE VICINITY OF RIVAS. 508 

the inmates. Besides, M.'s fever was increasing, and I was 
anxious to get him to some comfortable place, where he 
could receive proper attentions, while he was yet able to 
travel. We had a long and dreary ride, until the middle of 
the afternoon, reheved only by the incident of Ben killing 
a boa constrictor with his sword, when we reached another 
large and fine stream called Gil Gonzalez, after the discov- 
erer of the country. It is, I believe, the only natural feature 
of Nicaragua which commemorates the name of any of its 
conquerors. Beyond the Eio Gil Gonzalez, we came to open, 
cultivated fields, "/iwerte" or gardens, separated by hedge 
rows, along which were planted papaya trees, now loaded 
with golden fi?uit. As we advanced, the evidences of indus- 
try and thrift became more and more abundant, and passing 
for a league through broad and luxuriant fields, we at last 
came to the Indian pueblo of Obraje, the place where Somo- 
za had received his first check by the troops of the govern- 
ment. It was a large, straggling town, a town of gardens, 
and, judging from the accounts of the chroniclers, built very 
much after the plan of the aboriginal towns, before the Con- 
quest. ' The adobe buildings around the plaza were scarred 
by shot ; biit everything looked so peaceful now that I could 
hardly believe war and bloodshed had ever disturbed its 
quiet. 

The Obraje is one of half a dozen towns, situated within a 
radius of two leagues around the central city of Eivas or 
ISTicaragua, and which are, to all intents and purposes, parts 
of it. Within this area, therefore, there is a larger popula- 
tion than in any equal extent of the State. At a distance 
from the centres of political operations, Eivas and its depen- 
dencies have escaped the more obvious evils of the civil 
commotions to which the country has been subject. Its, 
prosperity has nevertheless been retarded, and its wealth 
diminished, as the State has declined. Yet, in point of cul- 
tivation and general thrift, it still retains its superiority. Of 



504 NIOAEAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 

tMs we liad abundant evidences in our ride of a league, from 
tlie Obraje to Eivas. The lands were better cleared and 
worked, and the houses larger and more comfortable than 
any we had. yet seen. To the right was a range of hills, not 
rockj, volcanic elevations, but smooth, rolling hills, capable 
of culture to their summits ; and between them and the lake 
intervened a wide plain, two or three leagues broad, with 
little swells of ground, upon which the houses of the people 
were usually built. This plain is wonderfully fertile, and 
suffering less from drought in the dry season, is probably 
capable of being made more productive than that of Leon ; 
but its greater moisture and comparative lowness render its 
climate less salubrious. As we rode along, in admiration of 
the lavish profusion of nature, we, for the first time since we 
left the San Juan river, saw the toucan and one or two other 
varieties of new and brilliant birds. They were very tame, 
and evidently felt at home amongst the cacao groves. 

The rain had ceased, and the contrast which this part of 
our ride bore to that of the morning, exhilarated me to 
the highest degree, and perhaps caused it to make a deeper 
impression than it would have done under other circum- 
stances. It was late in the afternoon, when, crossing a little 
New Englandish stream, the Dr. pointed to a large, fine 
house, sweetly seated in the edge of a cacao plantation, as 
that of Senor Hurtado, one of the Senators of the State, and 
at whose urgent invitation I was now in this part of the 
Republic. The building was elevated, and a broad corridor 
ran along its entire front, upon which Senor Hurtado and 
his family were seated, in luxurious enjoyment of the evening 
breeze. We were recognized, notwithstanding we were 
disguised by ponchos and stuccoed with mud, long before 
we reached the house, and the master came down the road 
to welcome us. Need I add that we were received with 
unbounded hospitality, and had every want anticipated, and 
every wish attended to, during our stay ? 



CACAO ESTATES. 505 

Senor Hiirtado is one of tlie largest proprietors in the 
Department, and, witli Lis wife and family, might easilj be 
taken for Americans. They were now living in what may 
be called the suburbs of the town ; their city residence 
having been destroyed, together with a large amount of 
property, by Somoza, during his temporary ascendancy. 
Their present dwelling had also been visited, and the marks 
of machetas and bullets were visible on the doors and 
shutters. It had, however, escaped pillage, in consequence 
of the popularity of its owner amongst all classes of the 
people of the Department. Connected with the establish- 
ment is a large and exceedingly well-kept cacao plantation. 
Through the middle runs the small stream I have mentioned, 
crossed by unique Httle bridges, and here and there forming 
miniature lakes. The mazy walks were wide and clean, and 
so effectually roofed in by the broad tops of the cacao-madre, 
that one might almost imagine himself within the spacious 
aisles of some grand natural temple. 

The morning following, we were waited upon by Don 
Fruto Chamorro, Prefect of the Department, and the of&cers 
of the garrison. Senor Hurtado gave me a fine horse, to 
relieve my wearied one, and I accompanied them to the 
town. I was much disappointed in its appearance. It looked 
dilapidated, having suffered much from earthquakes, to 
which it is proverbially subject. The walls of almost every 
building were split or thrown from the perpendicular from 
this cause, and the facades of two or three little churches, 
which we passed, were rent from top to bottom, and seemed 
just ready ready to tumble down. As we approached the 
grand plaza or centre of the town, we began to see the 
results of the recent troubles. The doors and windows of 
the buildings were fall of bullet-holes, and the walls had 
been literally scarified by shot. There must have been a 
prodigious amount of random firing, first and last. A number 
of buildings in the vicinity of the plaza had been burnt, or par- 



506 NICAEAGTJA— NAERATIVE. 

tially torn down, and amongst tliem were tlie ruins of tlie resi- 
dence of our host, wHcL. liad been distinguished for its si^ie 
and superior elegance. Don Fruto, (who, by the way, had in 
person captured the robber chieftain,) explained to me how 
the latter succeeded in gaining control of the place, and 
gave me a little insight into the mode of fighting practised 
in Central America. To get possession of the principal 
plaza, and to hold it, is esteemed the primary object of every 
assault. The garrison always barricades itself there, leaving 
the rest of the town unprotected ; and in this vicinity the 
fighting almost invariably takes place. Accordingly, at the 
outbreak of the insurrection, the little garrison, joined by the 
principal citizens, fortified themselves in the plaza, and 
waited for Somoza to come on. Of course he took his time, 
and when quite ready, with his usual daring, attempted to 
carry the plaza by a cowp de main. He could not, however, 
bring his men to charge the barricades in face of the veterans, 
whose shot swept the streets like hail. He nevertheless 
persisted in the attempt, but with uniform bad success. 
Finally he was compelled to make his advances in the usual 
manner. He commenced cutting through the houses, upon 
two sides at the same time, advancing from one to the other 
as fast as the walls could be broken through. The garrison, 
detecting the movement, advanced in the same way to meet 
him, instead of waiting to be overwhelmed by numbers in 
the plaza. The " sappers and miners," if they can be so 
called, encountered each other in the interiors of the aban- 
doned houses, and in their courtyards; and at the outset, in 
the bloody hand-to-hand contests which ensued, the superior 
discipline of the little garrison prevailed. Somoza, at this 
critical moment, set fire to the buildings with his own hands, 
and leaving a portion of his men in the houses, made a simul- 
taneous assault upon all the barricades. The garrison, 
having so many points to defend, enveloped in flame and 
smoke, and already much reduced, was overwhelmed by 



EAKTHQUAEES. 507 

numbers. In tlie excitement of the moment, horrible excesses 
were committed, and neither age nor sex was spared. To 
these excesses, which shocked and alarmed the whole State, 
the speedy downfall of Somoza and his faction is, in great 
part, to be ascribed. 

Upon one side of the plaza, which was now fitted np for 
"wri Juego de los Toros^'' or a bull-baiting, were the founda- 
tion walls and part of the superstructure of a large stone 
church. It had been planned on a grand scale, and was 
commenced and carried to its present elevation many years 
ago ; but a severe earthquake occurring, which cracked and 
otherwise injured the unfinished walls, its construction was 
suspended, and has never been resumed. The interior is, I 
believe, now used as a burial place; and a little, low, but 
compact building at its side is the parochial church. But 
even this has suffered from the earthquakes. In 1844 a 
series of shocks occurred, extending through three days. 
The people abandoned their dwellings, and lived in the 
open air. The shocks were so severe, that it was almost im- 
possible to stand erect, or even to stand at all, without cling- 
ing to trees or other fixed objects for support. On the isth- 
mus, below Nicaragua, and in the direction of the volcano 
of Orosi, which on this occasion was unusually active, the 
earth opened in various places, and many of the more fearful 
results of these convulsions were witnessed by the affrighted 
inhabitants. 

From the plaza, the view of the volcanoes of Ometepec and 
Madeira, standing in the lake, is exceedingly fin.e. The reg- 
ularity of the cone of the former seems more striking than 
when it is viewed from the opposite direction. I have no 
question that it approaches nearer the perfect cone in shape, 
than any other mountain on the continent, not to say in 
the world. 

Upon returning to Senor Hurtado's, we found Mr. Woeni- 
ger, a gentlemen of German descent, but a citizen of the 



508 NICARAGUA— KARRATIVE. 

United States, wlio liad resided for twelve or fourteen years 
in tlie country. He was intelligent and communicative, and 
gave me a great deal of information about this section of tlie 
State, but particularly concerning the island of Ometepec, on 
which, he had resided for a number of years. He had early 
cleared an estate there, and commenced the cultivation of 
cotton, relying upon Indian labor. Things went on very 
well for some time, and he had imported machinery for 
cleansing the cotton and manufacturing it, when the Indians, 
perhaps excited by envious or evil-minded persons, grew 
idle and unmanageable. And one day, during his absence, a 
drunken party of them entered his house, violated and mur- 
dered his wife, (daughter of a professor in one of the col- 
leges of Pennsylvania,) and then set fire to the building. 
Some of the miscreants were taken, identified, and shot. Mr. 
W., notwithstanding this terrible blow, persevered in his en- 
terprise, but with bad success, and was himself finally at- 
tacked by a number of his own laborers. He killed one or 
two, and escaped, abandoning his property on the island, 
and purchasing a cacao estate on the main-land, at a little 
place, in the vicinity of Eivas, called Potosi, where he now 
resided. He represented a large part of the island as being 
fertile, and well adapted to the cultivation of cotton, but not 
more so than almost any other portion of the republic. 
With a proper organization, and the ability of compelling 
the natives to comply with their contracts, he believed 
Nicaragua could compete with any portion of the world in 
the production of this staple, and supply a better article at 
less price in the markets of England, than the United States 
itself. This opinion I found was entertained by many other 
intelligent foreigners, resident in the country, and fully ac- 
quainted with the subject. It is this fact, amongst other 
things, and in connection with the unsuccessful efforts of 
England to grow cotton in her colonies, in Jamaica, the An- 
tilles, in Guiana, and India, that gives especial significance to 



ISLAND OF OMETEPEC. 



509 



English pretensions on tlie Mosquito shore, which is prohably 
the finest cotton growing country of the world. It is a fact also, 
which should not be lost sight of by the Southern States of 
our Confederacy, when we shall be called upon to take a 
national stand, on the questions which have been raised by 
the unscrupulous policy of Great Britain in Central and 
South America. 

Mr. Woeniger gave me some information concerning the 
monuments of aboriginal art found on the island. In the 
parts best known there had formerly been many idols re- 
sembling those found at Zapatero, but they had either been 
broken up or buried. A group was said to exist at a secluded 




BTJBIAL VASES FROM OMETEPEC. 



place, near the foot of the volcano of Madeira, but he had 
never seen them. The ancient cemeteries are the most 
remarkable remains of the aborigines. They generally oc- 
cur upon some dry, elevated place, and are distinguish- 
ed by an enclosure of flat, rough stones, set in the ground, 
and projecting a few inches above the surface. "Within the 
areas thus indicated are found, upon examination, many 
vases containing the bones and ashes of the dead, and a 
great variety of ornaments of stone and metal. Little gold 
idols, well worked, articles of copper, and terra cotta figures, 
are also sometimes found. The vases containing the 
human bones and ashes are always of one shape, as repre- 



510 



NICAEAGUA — NARRATIVE. 



-j*?*^^**' 



sented in the foregoing cuts. It will be seen at once, 
that the model is that of the human skull. In some of those 
in which the unburned bones were placed, after the removal 
of the flesh, (a common practice among the American In- 
dians,) the skull closed the orifice or mouth. Other articles • 
of pottery, some in the form of animals and of fruits and 
shells, are also found buried both in the cemeteries and else- 
where. These are sometimes elaborately painted, with bril- 
hant and enduring colors. Yarious terra cottas, in the form 

of men and animals, have 
also been found, of which 
the one represented in the 
accompanying engraving 
may be taken as a type. 
Amongst the articles of 
metal obtained on the isl- 
and, and presented to me 
by Mr. Woeniger, is a 
copper head or mask of 
a tiger, which is not un- 
artistic, and displays no 
insignificant degree of 
spirit. 

The golden idols, are 
TEERA coTTA FROM oMETEPEc—i SIZE. j^q doubt identical with 

those which the chronicler describes as " about a span long," 
and of which the great Cazique Niquira gave Gril Gonzales, 
upon his sohcitation, not less than "one thousand." One had 
been found just previous to our arrival, which weighed twenty- 
four ounces, and which had been purchased by a merchant 
for an equal number of doubloons, and sent as a remittance 
to Jamaica. I left a standing order with Senor Hurtado to 
secure the next one which should be found for me, at any 
cost. But up to this time, I cannot learn that any additional 
ones have been discovered. Amongst the other curious 




ABORIGINAL RELICS. 



511 



relics whicli I obtained there, was a little figure of a frog, 
carved in a grey stone, resembling verd antique. It is pre- 
sented of full size in the subjoined engraving. The holes near 
the fore feet were doubtless designed to receive the string, 




COPPEE MASK PROM OMETEPEO. 

by which it was probably suspended as an amulet from the 
neck of its ancient owner. This was found in the Depart- 
ment of Gruanacaste, near the Gulf of JSTicoya. 

I had intended to visit Ometepec ; and as, upon our arri- 




PROG IN VERB ANTIQUE. 



val, there seemed to be a prospect that M., after a little 
repose, would be able to go with ns, Senor Hurtado had 
ordered one of his boats, with a full complement of men, to 
be in readiness, on the second morning, to take^ us over. 



512 NICARAGUA — NAREATIVE. 

The Prefect had also sent orders to the subordinate offi- 
cers on the island to render ns every service in their power. 
But in the meantime M. had become much worse, and during 
the night was almost delirious with fever, requiring the 
constant attendance of the doctor. I was consequently 
obliged to relinquish my visit ; but, nevertheless, rode down 
to the lake with the Prefect and a party of the citizens. 
The distance is upwards of a league to Sah Jorge, which 
stands a little back from the lake, upon a dry, sandy swell 
of ground. It is finely situated, and the country intervening 
between the two towns is of surpassing beauty and fertility, 
and covered with cacao plantations, and " huertas," of the 
most luxuriant productiveness. It was at San Jorge that 
the final conflict with Somoza took place, and the buildings 
around the plaza bore the usual marks of shot ; and it was here 
that the French officer who had been so polite to us at San" 
Carlos, but who had foolishly joined Somoza for the sake of 
" beauty and booty," was killed. One of the officers pointed 
out a little depression in the surface of the ground ; it was 
his grave ; they had buried him where he fell. 

A few minutes' ride from San Jorge, along one of the 
numerous paths worn by the aguadoras, brought us to the 
lake. The shore is high and bluff, and there is only a 
narrow strip of sandy beach between it and the waters. 
Here were numerous bongos and canoes drawn up on the 
sand, parties of marineros cooking their breakfasts, men 
watering their horses in the surf, half naked women, sur- 
rounded by troops of children, busily engaged in washing, 
water-carriers filling and balancing their jars — all the move- 
ment and picturesque life which had so deeply impressed me 
upon my first landing on the beach of Grranada. The wind 
blew strongly, and the waves swept in with a force which 
surprised me. The rollers outside were like those of the 
ocean, and a canoe just then coming in was swamped the 
moment it reached them, and was only prevented from being 



JilQUESTKlAN SKILL. 518 

overset and stove on tlie sliore, by tlie crew, wlio had. pre- 
viously thrown themselves overboard, and steadied it by 
chngiug to its sides. It would have been impossible for us 
to have got outside, even if we had been in readiness to go 
to the island. I found that our patron and crew were to have 
been the same who had taken us to Pensacola, and had 
vexed us so prodigiously by their laziness. They saluted 
me with the greatest familiarity, and seemed to be much 
disappointed when Senor Hurtado told them they would not 
be wanted. They had evidently counted on a large supply of 
aguardiente, and on being gloriously drunk for at least a 
week. I gave them a few reals wherewith to drink my 
health, for which they invoked the blessing of all the 
saints on my head. 

The return ride was a rapid one, and the young officers 
who accompanied us amused themselves greatly by racing 
their horses. Their mode of doing this is very different from 
ours, and a trifle more dangerous. The rivals place them- 
selves side by side, and join hands, starting off at a given 
signal. The one whose greater speed enables him to drag 
the other from his horse, wins ; and if the race is in earnest, 
the least the beaten party can expect to get off with is a 
tumble in the sand, with a chance of a broken head. There 
are many fine horsemen in Central America ; indeed, a good 
horse, and the ability to ride him well, are the two things 
which the "fast fellows" of that country most do covet, and 
in the possession and display of which they take most pride. 
For my sole gratification, I presume, one of the officers vol- 
unteered some exhibitions of his skill. He requested me to 
drop my whip a httle in advance ; I did so, and as he dashed 
past, at the full speed of his horse, he bent down gracefully 
and picked it up, — a feat which those who do not think dif- 
ficult had better attempt. He also borrowed a lance from 
an Indian whom we met, and showed me the manner in 

which it is handled by those who fally understood its use. 

33 



514 NICARAGUA — ^NAREATIVE. 

I was amazed at his dexterity, and not less so at tlie skill 
with, which one of his companions, using only his sword, 
warded off the blows aimed at him with. the blunt end. It 
occurred to me that any " gringo" like myself might be a 
dozen times run through by a lancer of this order, before 
fairly aware of the circumstance ; and I made a mental 
resolve, in case of encountering " ladrones " with lances, to 
appeal to my "Colt," before admitting any too familiar ap- 
proaches. 

The morning of the third day found M. no better, and 
requiring, as before, the constant care of the doctor. Senor 
Hurtado had, however, planned an excursion across the 
country to the Pacific. We were to take coffee at Potosi 
with Mr. "Woeniger, breakfast at an estate of Senor Hurta- 
do's, in the little valley of Brito, ride to the sea, and be back 
to dinner. We were off at daylight, and rode a league 
through an unbroken garden, to Potosi, a straggling town 
like the Obraje, and, like that, a curious compound of city 
and country, plazas and plantations. Our friend was ex- 
pecting us, and after despatching our coffee, none the less 
acceptable because of our brisk ride, he showed us through 
his cacao estate. It was small but well kept, and constantly 
increasing in value ; for in addition to replacing the decay- 
ing trees, he every year put in an additional four or five 
hundred, each one of which, when matured, according to the 
rate of calculation here, is valued at a dollar. It requires 
from five to seven years to make a plantation ; or rather, that 
time is requisite before the trees commence "paying." 

Amongst the various aboriginal relics which Mr. Woeni- 
ger had collected, on the island of Ometepec, was one of 
considerable interest, which is represented in No. 2 of the 
accompanying Cut. It is of stone, about fourteen inches 
in length, and eight high, and seems intended to be a repre- 
sentation of some animal, couchant It was carefully pre- 
served by the Indians at the summit of a high, secluded 




ABOEIGINAL EELICS. 




NEW VOLCANO ON THE PLAIN OF LEON.— See page 530. 



THE VALLEY OF BRITO. 617 

point of rocks, wliere tliey secretly resorted to pour out liba- 
tions before it, and to perform rites, the nature of wbicli 
none would ever reveal. For more tban fifty years tbe 
padres sought to discover this idol, but without success. 
Recently, however, its place had been ascertained ; it was 
seized and would have been thrown into the lake, had not 
Mr. Woeniger promised, if placed in his hands, to remove it 
from the island for ever. It is now in the Museum of the 
Smithsonian Institution at Washington. 

At a little distance beyond Potosi, the ridge of land which 
intervenes between the lake and the Pacific, commences to 
rise. It can hardly be called a ridge ; it is a bj-oad plateau, 
and what upon either side appear to be hills, are nothing 
more than the edges of the table-land. The top of this 
plateau is undulating and diversified, and resembles some of 
the finer parts of New York and ISTew England. We had a 
number of magnificent views of the lake and the intervening 
plain, as we rose above the general level ; the volcanoes of 
Ometepec and Madeira, now as always, constituting the most 
striking features in the landscape. Our road was gravelly 
and dry, and its windings pleasantly relieved by open fields 
and shadowy woodlands. I was a little surprised to find the 
valley of Brito, upon the summit of the plateau of which I 
have spoken, along which it runs longitudinally, and finally, 
by a succession of " saltos," falls into the Pacific, at the little 
harbor of ISTacascolo or Brito, not far to the northward of that 
cf San Juan del Sur, the point spoken of as the western 
terminus of the proposed line of transit. It is a sweet little 
valley, and at one of its sweetest parts is the indigo estate of 
Senor Hurtado. The building was spacious, built of adobes, 
with a tiled roof, and surrounded by a high fence of posts, 
placed in the ground upright, like stockades. Within this 
the ground was beaten smooth, and, spread upon sheets, were 
large quantities of indigo, receiving a final drying in the sun, 
preparatory to being packed for market. Our host, with 



518 NICARAGUA — NAERATIVE. 

hospitable prevision, had, tlie day- before, sent word of our 
coming, and we found a capital breakfast, and a couple of 
well-cooled bottles of claret, awaiting our attentions. This 
disposed of, we went to visit the indigo "maquina." The 
first point of interest was the dam across the stream from 
which the water is obtained for driving the machinery and 
supplying the works. It was well constructed, and a very 
creditable piece of workmanship for any country. The next 
thing in importance was the " maquina" itself. It consisted 
of two immense vats of masonry, situated one above the 
other. In the lower one a large wheel was so placed as to 
be turned by water. Near these was a drying house, and 
other requisite apparatus, the purposes of which will be 
explained in the following account of the process of manu- 
facturing indigo. 

I have elsewhere said that the indigo of Central America, 
amongst which that of Nicaragua is regarded as of a very 
superior quality, is obtained from an indigenous triennial 
plant, {Indigofera disperma^ Linn^ which attains its highest per- 
fection in the richest soils. It will grow, however, upon almost 
any soil, and is very little affected by drought, or by super- 
abundant rains. In planting it, the ground is perfectly 
cleared, usually burnt over, and divided with an implement 
resembling a hoe into little trenches, two or three inches in 
depth, and twelve or fourteen apart, at the bottom of which 
the seeds are strewn by hand, and lightly covered with earth. 
A bushel of seed answers for four or five acres of land. In 
Nicaragua it is usually planted towards the close of the dry 
season in April or May, and attains its perfection, for the 
purpose of manufacture, in from two and a half to three 
months. During this time it requires to be carefully weeded, 
to prevent any mixture of herbs, which would injure the 
quality of the indigo. When green, the plant closely resem- 
bles what in the United States is familiarly known as "sweet 
clover," or the young and tender sprouts of the locust tree. 



MANUFACTUBE OF INDIGO. 519 

"When it becomes covered witli a kind of greenisli farina, it is 
in a fit state to be cut. This is done with knives, at a little 
distance above the root, so as to leave some of the branches, 
called in the West Indies " ratoons," for a second growth, 
which is also in readiness to be cut, in from six to eight 
weeks after. The crop of the first year is usually small, that 
of the second is esteemed the best, although that of the third 
is hardly inferior. It is said that some fields have been 
gathered for ten consecutive years without being resown, 
the fallen seed obviating the necessity of new plantings. 

After the plant is cut, it is bound in little bundles, carried 
to the vat, and placed in layers in the upper or larger one, 
called the " steeper," (mojadora). This vat holds from one 
thousand to ten thousand gallons, according to the require- 
ments of the estat,e. Boards loaded with weights are then 
placed upon the plants, and enough water let on to cover the 
whole, which is now left to steep or ferment. The rapidity 
of this process depends much upon the state of the weather 
and the condition of the plant. Sometimes it is accomplished 
in six or eight hours, but generally from fifteen to twenty. 
The proper length of time is determined by the color of the 
saturated water ; but the great secret is to check the fermen- 
tation at the proper point, for upon this, in a great degree, 
depends the quality of the product. Without disturbing the 
plant, the water is now drawn off, by cocks, into the lower 
vat or "beater," {golpeadoro^) where it is strongly and inces- 
santly beaten, in the smaller estates with paddles by hand, 
in the larger by wheels turned by horse or water-power. 
This is continued until it changes from the green color, 
which it at first displays, to a blue, and until the coloring 
matter, or fiocidce, shows a disposition to curdle or subside. 
This is sometimes hastened by the infusion of certain herbs. 
It is then allowed to settle, and the water is carefully drawn 
off. The pulp granulates, at which time it resembles a fine, 
soft clay ; after which it is put into bags to drain, and thee 



520 NICAEAGUA — ^NAEEATIVE. 

spread on clotlis, in the sun, to drj. When properly dried, 
it is carefully selected according to its quality, and packed 
in hide cases, 150 lbs. each, called ceroons. The quality has 
not less than nine gradations, the best being of the highest 
figure. From 6 to 9 are called Jiores, and are the best ; from 
3 to 6, cortes ; from 1 to 3, inclusive, cobres. The two poorer 
qualities do not pay expenses. A mansana of one hundred 
yards square, produces, on an average, about one ceroon at 
each cutting. After the plant has passed through the vat, it 
is required by law that it shall be dried and burnt ; because, 
in decomposing, it generates, by the million, an annoying 
insect called the " indigo fly." 

Thus the indigo plant requires constant attention during 
its growth, and must be cut. at a particular period, or it is 
valueless. The subsequent processes are delicate, and 
require the utmost care. It will readily be understood, 
therefore, that the production of this staple would suffer 
most from revolutions and disturbances of the country, when 
it is impossible to obtain labor, or where the laborers are 
liable at any moment to be impressed for the army. As a 
consequence, it has greatly declined ; many fine estates have 
been entirely abandoned, and the export of the article 
reduced to less than a fifth of what it once was. Its produc- 
tion is now chiefly confined to San Salvador, where industry 
is better organized than in any of the other States. 

From Senor Hurtado's hacienda, we rode along the shaded 
banks of the stream, to the little Indian town of Brita. It 
has nothing to distinguish it except its picturesque situation, 
and its unique little church, painted after the Indian fashion, 
with all the colors of the rainbow, — ^here a row of urns, 
there a line of flowers, curiously festooned, and the -yfhole 
altogether more resembling the flaming front of a wooden 
clock from Yankeeland, than anything else under heaven. 
Near this place was a decayed cacao estate, belonging to a 
family of some notability in the country, but now only rep- 



MORE ABORIGINAL RELICS. 521 

resented in the female line. The avenue leading to tlie 
mansion liad once been grand ; it was still lined with mag- 
nificent trees. The house was now dilapidated, and honey- 
bees had dug out immense establishments in the adobe walls, 
around which they swarmed in a cloud. A dozen stout, 
half-naked fellows were lounging on the corridor, surrounded 
by an equal number of mangy dogs, which showed their 
teeth and snarled around our legs. The wife of the mayor- 
domo, himself a swarthy mestizo, was a fair, delicate girl, 
who looked wonderfully out of place amongst her rough 
companions. I obtained from her — for she was as kind and 
gentle as the masculines were morose and ugly — the stone 
vase, No. 1, of the Cut facing page 514. It had been 
brought to light but a short time before, in digging the posts 
for a cattle shed. It is about eighteen inches in height, and 
of proportionate diameter, cut from a single block of granite 
rock. There were handles, in the shape of a human head, 
upon each side, and the intermediate space, on a raised band 
around the middle, was tastefally ornamented, as shown in 
the engraving. 

• Eeserving for another place the observations which I this 
day made, in respect to the proposed route for a ship-canal 
to connect the lake and ocean at this point, I have only to 
add that the day was delightfully spent, and that our return 
to Eivas, in the cool of the evening, was one of the pleasant- 
est rides that I enjoyed in the country. I found that dur- 
ing my absence, the Prefect had sent me a very singular 
relic of antiquity, which had been exhumed some time pre- 
viously, near the city, which is represented by Fig. 3, in the 
same Plate with the vase just described. It is of the same 
material witk the vase, and is ornamented in similar style, 
but more elaborately. It will be observed that one of the 
projecting arms or ornaments on the side represented in the 
sketch, is broken off; it probably was analogous to that 
shown in the front. I cannot imagine what was the purpose 
66 



522 NICAEAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 

of this singular piece of sculpture, unless designed as a pedes- 
tal for an idol, or a seat for the dignitaries of aboriginal times, 
for both of which purposes it is very well adapted. It is 
about twenty inches in height ; and, in company with the 
vase, is deposited in the Museum of the Smithsonian Institu- 
tion at "Washington. 

M., I found, was getting better of his fever ; the dangerous 
stage was passed, but he would be unable to endure any 
violent exercise for a week. I could not, therefore, depend 
upon him to accomplish the primary objects I had in view 
in visiting this section of the State, and as I expected impor- 
tant despatches from Grovernment at Granada, I resolved, 
notwithstanding the solicitations of my host, to leave M. in 
care of the doctor, and return. The next morning was fixed 
for my departure. At sunrise, Senor Hurtado had everything 
prepared, including a man to act as guide, and persisted in 
accompanying me to the Obraje, where, after extending an 
earnest invitation to visit him again, he left me and returned. 

We had been nearly the whole of one day in riding the 
ten leagues from the Ochomogo to Eivas, but I now went 
over the same ground before breakfasting. The hostess at 
Ochomogo was still puzzling her head how it could be possi- 
ble that I did not know " Capitan Esmith, un hombre muy 
ilustrado, y gordo /" " Captain Smith, a very enhghtened 
man, and fat P^ 

Passing Ochomogo, my guide took me by a new, and as 
he said, shorter path, from that by which we came ; so I 
missed the satisfaction of calling the inhospitable mayor- 
domo a shameless fellow, and lost the opportunity of seeing 
ISTandyme by daylight. Although the distance is called 
sixty miles, the sun was yet high in the west when I arrived 
within sight of Granada. A light shower was just sweeping 
over it, spanned by a beautiful rainbow, like the portal of 
Paradise. As I came nearer, I heard the eternal banging of 
bombas, and rode into the city amidst serpientes, waving 



DESPATCHES FROM, HOME. 523 

flags, and the other eye and ear-wearying nonsense of a fiesta. 
I would have gone tlirongli the principal street, but the peo- 
ple all at once fell on their knees, and I was saluted by a 
hundred voices, " Quita su sombrero !" — " Take off your 
hat !" I looked down the street, and saw a procession ap- 
proaching at the other end, preceded by a score of squeak- 
ing violins and a squad of soldiers, and followed by a regi- 
ment of saints' effigies, borne on men's shoulders. My guide 
dismounted and dropped on his marrow bones in the mud, 
while Ben and myself turned down' a side street, leaving the 
guide to follow when he got ready. I was heartily tired of 
fiestas and saints, and began to think if the people prayed 
less and worked more, they would be doing both God and 
man better service. 

My despatches had arrived that afternoon, with three 
months' later dates, for we had heard nothing from home 
during that period, except through British agents, who took 
a malicious satisfaction in showing us how much more effi- 
cient, active, and intelligent is the British Government, in 
the conduct of its foreign relations, than our own. It was 
seldom that despatches ever reached the American officers in 
this country, and then only long after date. I got bushels 
of letters, papers, and documents, all directed to my prede- 
cessor, at eight, twelve, and even eighteen months after they 
were despatched from Washington. The EngUsh agents were 
never thirty days behindhand. The first intimation of the 
declaration of war with Mexico, received by our naval com- 
mander in the Pacific, was through the British Admiral, and 
after that officer had taken such measures as he thought pro- 
per under the circumstances.^ It was only the superior swiffc- 

1 "During the diplomatic employments with which I have been so long 
honored by the favor of my country, I have been constantly mortified 
by the dependence in which our foreign agents are left upon a foreign and 
rival government, for the transmission of their correspondence." — Hon. 
Henry Wheaton, to the Department of State, Dec. 1845. 



524 NICAEAGUA — ^NAREATIVE. 

ness of American sMps which enabled us to anticipate the 
seizure of California by Great Britain, under pretext of se- 
curing its Mexican debts. On such a small matter as that^ 
turned the great question of American predominance in the 
Pacific, and American maritime and commercial ascendancy 
throughout the world. In appointing even so insignificant 
an of&cer as a despatch agent, our government should not 
forget this fact, nor neglect to ask itself the question, " What 
if England had got California?" 

The matters contained in my letters required my imme- 
diate presence in Leon. Accordingly I left the next morn- 
ing, and accomplished the entire distance, one hundred and 
twenty miles, in a day and a half, — or, counting from Nica- 
ragua, one hundred and eighty miles in two days and a half, 
being at the rate of seventy-two miles a day. This was 
done with the same horse, one which had cost me but thirty 
dollars, and which came into Leon at the same pace with 
which he had left Nicaragua, and apparently as unwearied 
as then. And yet I suffered nothing from fatigue, and, not- 
withstanding all that I had heard said about the debilitating 
effects of the climate, felt as vigorous as I had ever done, 
under the most favorable circumstances, at home. 

I found two soldiers pacing the corridor of my house, 
which greatly puzzled me. My old friend Padre Cartine, I 
afterwards found, had dreamed a dream, to the purport that 
robbers were seeking to enter it, and had given the General 
no peace until he had stationed a guard there to keep "watch 
and ward" day and night. Poor old Padre ! It is precious little 
the "ladrones" would have got, had the dream proved true. 

And thus terminated my second antiquarian expedition. 
I have only given an outline of the incidents which befel 
me, and shall reserve all speculation upon my discoveries for 
another place. 



CHAPTEE XIX. 

VOLOAITOES OF CENTRAL AMERICA; THEIR NUMBER — VOLCANO OF JORULLO — 
ISALCO — THE VOLCANIC CHAIN OF THE MARABIOS — INFERNALES — " LA BAILA 
DE LOS DEMONIOS" — VOLCANIC OUTBURST ON THE PLAIN OF LEON — VISIT TO 
THE NEW VOLCANO, AND NARROW ESCAPE — BAPTIZING A VOLCANO — ERUPTION 
OF COSEGUINA — CELEBRATION OF ITS ANNIVERSARY — SYNCHRONOUS EARTH- 
QUAKES — LATE EARTHQUAKES IN CENTRAL AMERICA — VOLCANO OF TELICA — EL 
VOLCAN VIEJO — SUBTERRANEAN LAVA BEDS — ACTIVITY OF THE VOLCANOES OF 

THE MARABIOS IN THE 16th CENTURY THE PHENOMENA OF EARTHQUAKES 

EARTHQUAKE OF OCT. 27, 1849 VOLCANIC FEATURES OF THE COUNTRY 

EXTmCT CRATERS VOLCANIC LAKES — THE VOLCANO OF NINDIRI OR 

MASAYA — DESCENT INTO IT BY THE FRAY BLAS DE CASTILLO — EXTRAORDI- 
NARY DESCRIPTION. 

No equal extent of tlie American continent, perliaps of 
tlie globe, possesses so many volcanoes, active and extinct, or 
exhibits so many traces of volcanic action, as Central Amer- 
ica ; tliat is to say, tlie region embraced between tbe Isthmus 
of Tebuantepec and that of Panama, or Darien. In tbe 
words of Mr. Stephens, the entire Pacific coast of this re- 
markable country "bristles with volcanic cones," which form 
a conspicuous feature in every landscape, rising above the 
plains and undulating hills, and often from the edges of the 
great lakes, with the regularity and symmetry of the pyra- 
mids. It is a matter of surprise and regret that, affording as 
it does, so excellent a field for studying the grand and inter- 
esting phenomena connected with volcanoes and earthquakes, 
this country has not more particularly attracted the attention 
of scientific men, and especially of those who ascribe to 



526 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 

igneous and volcanic agency so important a part in tlie phy- 
sical changes which our planet has undergone. Humboldt 
did not pass through Central America, although fully im- 
pressed with the importance of its geological and topograph- 
ical investigation ; a deficiency which he deplores in many 
places in his published researches. Nor am I aware that any 
but very partial and imperfect accounts have been given to 
the world of the volcanoes of this country, and those have 
been by persons claiming no consideration as scientific men. 
Eecognizing fully my own deficiency in this respect, I should 
not think of venturing on the subject, except in the hope of 
directing anew the attention of competent persons to it, and 
thus contributing to supply the desideratum. 

The volcanoes of Central America are all situated on the 
Pacific coast ; the eastern slope of the continent consisting 
of broken mountain ranges, which exhibit few traces of vol- 
canic action. In fact, they occur almost in a right line, run- 
ning due ISr. W. and S. E., commencing with the high vol- 
cano of Cartago in Costa Bica (11,480 feet high), from the 
summit of which both oceans are visible, to Citlaltepetl, in 
the Department of Yera Cruz, in Mexico. There are several 
hundred volcanic peaks and extinct craters on this line, the 
most remarkable of which are Cartago, or Irasu, Turrialva, 
Barba,and Yatos, (9,840 feet high,) in Costa Eioa ; Abogado, 
Cerro Pelas, Miriballes, Tenerio, Eincon de la Yieja, Oiosi, 
Madeira, Ometepec, Zapatero, Guanapepe, Guanacaure, 
Solentinami, Momobacho, Masaya or JSTindiri, Managua, 
Momotombo, (6,500 feet high,) Las Pilas, Acosusco, Orota, 
Telica, Santa Clara, El Yiejo, (6,000 feet high,) Coseguina, 
and Joltepec, in Nicaragua ; El Tigre, and Nacaome, in 
Honduras ; Amapala or Conchagua, San Salvador, San 
Miguel, San Yicente, Isalco, Paneon, and Santa Ana, in San 
Salvador ; Pacaya, Yolcan de Agua, Yolcan de Fuego, In- 
contro, Acatenango, Atitlan, Tesanuelco, Sapotitla.n, Amilpas, 
Quesaltenango, and Soconusco, in Guatemala. There are 



VOLCANOES OF CENTRAL AMERICA. 527 

many others wliicli are nameless, or of wliicli tlie names are 
unknown. Some ten or twelve of tliose above named are 
said to be "vz'w," alive, — that is to say, tbey throw out 
smoke, and exhibit other evidences of vitality. But three 
or four, however, can be said to be active at present, of 
which, Isalco, in San Salvador, is the most remarkable, 
having been formed within the last eighty years, and within 
the recollection of persons now living. 

This volcano, and that of Jorullo, in Mexico, described 
by Humboldt, are, I believe, all that have originated 
on the continent since the Discovery. It arose from 
the plain in 1770, and covers what was then a fine cattle 
hacienda or estate. The occupants on this estate were 
alarmed by subterraneous noises, and shocks of earthquakes, 
about the end of 1769, which continued to increase in loud- 
ness and strength until the 23d of the February following, 
when the earth opened about half-a-mile from the dwellings 
on the estate, sending out lava, accompanied by fire and 
smoke. The inhabitants fled ; but the vaqueros^ or herds- 
men, who visited the estate daily, reported a constant 
increase in the smoke and flame, and that the ejection of lava 
was at times suspended, and vast quantities of ashes, cinders, 
and stones sent out instead, forming an increasing cone 
around the vent, or crater. This process was repeated for a 
long period, but for many years the volcano has thrown out 
no lava. It has, however, remained in a state of constant 
eruption, the explosions occurring every sixteen minutes and 
a quarter, with a noise like the discharge of a park of artil- 
lery, accompanied by a dense smoke and a cloud of ashes 
and stones, which fall upon every side, and add to the height 
of the cone. It is now about 1,500 or 2,000 feet in height, 
and I am informed by an intelligent West Indian gentleman, 
Dr. Driven, who has known it for the past twenty -five years, 
that within that period it has increased about one-third. At 
some times the explosions are more violent than at others, 



528 NICAEAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 

% 

and tlie ejected matter greater in amount ; but it is said the 
disclaarges are always regular. With the wind in a favorahle 
direction, an annoying and sometimes injurious quantity of 
fine ashes or powder is carried to the city of Sonsonate, 
twelve miles distant. The volcano of JoruUo rose, I believe, 
in a single night ; but, as we have seen, Isalco is the result 
of long continued deposits, and it seems to me that most of 
the volcanoes of Central America, including some of the 
largest, have been formed in like manner. In fact, I have 
been a personal witness of the origin of a new volcano, which, 
if it has not met a premature extinguishment, bids fair to 
add another high cone to those which now stud the great 
plain of Leon. 

This plain is traversed by a succession of volcanic cones, 
commencing with the gigantic Momotombo, standing boldly 
out into the Lake of Managua, and ending with the memora- 
ble Coseguina, projecting its base not less boldly into the 
ocean, constituting the line of the Marabios. Fourteen dis- 
tinct volcanoes occur within one hundred miles, on this line, 
all of which are visible at the same time. They do not form 
a continuous range, but stand singly, the plain between them 
generally preserving its original level. They have not been 
" thrust up," as the volcano of Jorullo seemed to have- been, 
elevating the strata around them ; although it is not certain 
but the original volcanic force, being general in its action, 
raised up the whole plain to its present level. All these are 
surrounded by beds of lava, mal pais, extending, in some 
cases, for leagues in every direction. The lava current in 
places seems to have spread out in sheets, flowing elsewhere, 
however, in high and serpentine ridges, resembling Cyclopean 
walls, often capriciously enclosing spaces of arable ground, 
in which vegetation is luxuriant: these are called by the 
natives corrales, yards. Hot springs, and openings in the 
ground emitting hot air, smoke, and steam, called inferniUos, 
are common around the bases of these volcanoes. For large 



VOLCANIC ERUPTION NEAR LEON. 529 

spaces the wliole ground seems resting upon a boiling 
cauldron, and is encrusted witli mineral deposits. There are 
also many places where the ground is depressed and bare, 
resembling a honey-combed, ferruginous clay-pit, from which 
sulphurous vapors are constantly rising, destroying vegeta- 
tion in the vicinity, but especially to the leeward, where they 
are carried by the wind. By daylight nothing is to be seen 
at these places, except a kind of tremulous motion of the 
heated atmosphere near the surface of the ground. But at 
night, the whole is lighted by a flickering, bluish, and etherial 
flame, like that of burning spirits, which spreads at one 
moment over the whole surface, at the next shoots up into 
high spires, and then diffuses itself again, in a strange, 
unearthly manner. This is called by the " gente del campo," 
the people of the fields, "la baile de los Demonios," the 
Dance of the Devils. 

Around some of these volcanoes, that is to say those having 
visible craters, are many smaller cones, of great regularity, 
composed of ashes, volcanic sand, and triturated stones, 
resembling septaria. They seldom support anything but a few 
dwarf trees, and are covered with coarse grass. This grass, 
when green, gives them a beautiful emerald appearance. In 
the dry season this color is exchanged for yellow, which, 
after the annual burning, gives place to black. They con- 
stitute with their changes very singular and striking features 
in the Central American landscape. 

" On the 11th and 12th days of April, 1850, rumbling 
sounds, resembling thunder, were heard in the city of Leon. 
They seemed to proceed from the direction of the volcanoes, 
and were supposed to come from the great volcano of 
Momotombo, which often emits noises, and shows other 
symptoms of activity, besides sending out smoke. This vol- 
cano, however, on this occasion exhibited no unusual indi- 
cations. The sounds increased in loudness and frequency on 
the night of the 12th, and occasional tremors of the earth 

84 



530 NICAEAGUA — ^NAREATIVE. 

were felt as far as Leon ; wliicli, near tlie mountains, were 
quite violent, terrifying the inhabitants. Early on. the 
morning of Sunday, the 13th, an orifice opened near the base 
of the long-extinguished volcano of Las Pilas, about twenty 
miles distant from Leon. The throes of the earth at the time 
of the outburst were very severe in the vicinity, resembling, 
from the accounts of the natives, a series of concussions. 
The precise point where the opening was made might be 
said to be in the plain ; it was, however, somewhat elevated 
by the lava which had ages before flowed down from the 
volcano, and it was through this bed of lava that the eruption 
took place. No people reside within some miles of the spot ; 
consequently I am not well informed concerning the earlier 
phenomena exhibited by the new volcano. It seems, how- 
ever, that the outburst was attended with much flame, and 
that, at first, quantities of melted matter were ejected irregu- 
larly in every direction. Indeed, this was clearly the case, 
as was shown upon my visit to the spot some days there- 
after. For a wide distance around were scattered large flakes 
resembling freshly cast iron. This irregular discharge con- 
tinued, only for a few hours, and was followed by a current 
of lava, ,which flowed down the slope of the land toward the 
west, in the form of a high ridge, rising above the tops of 
the trees, and bearing down everything which opposed its 
progress. While this flow continued, which it did for the 
remainder of the day, the earth was quiet, excepting only a 
very slight tremor, which was not felt beyond a few miles. 
Upon the 14th, however, the lava stopped flowing, and an 
entirely new mode of action followed. A series of eruptions 
commenced, each lasting about three minutes, succeeded by 
a pause of equal duration. Bach eruption was accompanied 
by concussions of the earth, (too slight, however, to be felt at 
Leon,) attended also by an outburst of flame, a hundred feet or 
more in height. Showers of red-hot stones were also ejected 
with each eruption to the height of several hundred feet. 



VOLCANOES OF CENTEAL AMERICA. 531 

Most of tliese fell back into ttemoutli or crater, tlie rest falling 
outward, and gradually building up a cone around it. By 
the attrition of this process, the stones became more or less 
rounded, thus explaining a peculiarity in the volcanic stones 
already alluded to. These explosions continued uninter- 
ruptedly for seven days, and could be accurately observed 
from Leon in the night. Upon the morning of the 22d, 
accompanied by Dr. J. W. Livingston, U. S. Consul, I set 
oiiit to visit the spot. No one had ventured near it, but we 
had no diflSiculty in persuading some vaqueros^ from the 
haciendas of Orota, to act as guides. We rode with c|iflQ.culty 
over beds of lava, until within about a mile and a-half of the 
place, proceeding thence on foot. In order to obain a full 
view of the new volcano, we ascended a high, naked ridge of 
scoriae, entirely overlooking it. From this point it presented 
the appearance of an immense kettle, upturned, with a hole 
knocked in the bottom, forming the crater. From this, upon 
one side ran off the lava stream, yet fervent with heat, and 
sending off its tremulous radiations. The eruptions had 
ceased that morning, but a volume of smoke was still emitted, 
which the strong north-east wind swept down in a trailing 
current along the tree-tops. 

The cone was patched over with yellow, the color of the 
crystallized sulphur deposited by the hot vapors passing up 
amongst the loose stones. The trees all around were stripped 
of their limbs, leaves, and bark, and resembled so many 
giant skeletons. Tempted by the quietude of the volcano, 
and anxious to inspect it more closely, in spite of the warn- 
ings of OUT guides, we descended from our position, and 
going to the windward, scrambled over the intervening lava 
beds, through patches of thorny cacti and agaves, toward 
the cone. On all sides we found the flakes of melted matter 
which had been thrown out on the first day of the eruption, 
and which had moulded themselves over whatever they fell 
upon. "We had no difficulty in reaching the base of the 



532 NICARAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 

cone, tlie ■wind driving off tlie smoke and vapors to tlie lee- 
ward. It was perhaps a hundred and fifty or two hundred 
feet high, bj two hundred yards in diameter at the base, and 
of great regularity of outline. It was made up entirely of 
stones, more or less rounded, and of every size, from one 
pound up to five hundred. No sound was heard when we 
reached it, except a low, rumbling noise, accompanied by a 
very slight tremulous motion. Anxious to examine it more 
closely, and to test the truth of the popular assertion that any 
marked disturbance near the volcanic vents is sure to bring 
on an ej-uption, we prepared to ascend. Fearing we might 
find the stones too much heated near the summit, to save 
my hands, I prepared myself with two staffs, as supports. 
The Doctor disdained such appliances, and started without 
them. The ascent was very laborious, the stones rolling 
away beneath our feet, and rattling down the sides. We 
however almost succeeded in reaching the summit, when 
the Doctor, who was a little in advance, suddenly recoiled 
with an exclamation of pain, having all at once reached a 
layer of stones so hot as to blister his hands at the first touch. 
"We paused for a moment, and I was looking to my footing, 
when I was startled by an exclamation of terror from my 
companion, who gave simultaneously an almost superhuman 
leap down the side. At the same instant a strange roar 
almost deafened me; there seemed to be a whirl of the 
atmosphere, ■ and a sinking of the mass upon which I was 
standing. Quick as thought I glanced upward ; the heavens 
were black with stones, and a thousand lightnings flashed 
among them. All this was in an instant, and in the same 
instant I too was dashing down the side, reaching the bottom 
at the same moment with my companion, and just in time to 
escape the stones, which fell in rattling torrents where we 
had stood a moment before. I need not say that in spite of 
spiny cacti and rugged beds of lava, we were not long in 
puttmg a respectable and safe distance between us and the 



VOLCAJSrOES IN CENTRAL AMERICA. 633 

flaming object of our curiosity. Tlie eruption lasted for 
nearly an hour, interspersed witli lulls, like long breatMngs. 
The noise was that of innumerable blast-furnaces in full 
operation, and the air was filled with projected and falling 
stones. The subsidence was almost as sudden as the out- 
burst, and we waited several hours in vain for another 
eruption. Our guides assured us that a second attempt to 
ascend, or any marked disturbance on the slope, or in the 
viciaity, would be followed by an eruption, but we did not 
care to try the experiment. 

From that period until I left Central America, I am not 
aware that there occurred more than one eruption, namely, 
on the occasion of the falling of the first considerable shower 
of rain, on, I think, the 27th of the month succeeding that 
in which the outbreak occurred. Nor have I learned that up 
to this time this promising young volcano has exhibited any 
additional active phenomena. I fear that its earlier efforts 
were too energetic, and that it has gone into a premature 
decline. 

The discharges from this vent, consisting wholly of stones, 
may have been and probably were peculiar ; for the volcanoes 
themselves, and the cones surrounding them, generally seem 
to have been made up of such stones, interspersed through 
large quantities of ashes and scoriaceous sand, alternating 
with beds of lava. 

A few days before our visit, a deputation from the vaqueros 
and others living in the vicinity of Las Pilas had visited 
Leon, for the purpose of soliciting the Bishop to go to this 
place and baptize the prospective volcano, in order to keep 
it in moderation, and make it observe the proprieties of life. 
I believe a partial assent was obtained, and the city was full 
of rumors touching this novel ceremony, which I was exceed- 
ingly curious to witness. But its early relapse into quietude 
dispelled the fears of the people, and the proposed rite was 
never performed, much to my disappointment, as I intended 



584 NICARAGUA — ^NAERATIVE. 

to stand as god-father, compadre, to tlie Volcano de los Norte 
Americanos ! This is an old practice, and the ceremony, it 
is said, was performed, early after the Conquest, on all the 
volcanoes in Nicaragua, with the exception of Momotombo, 
which is yet amongst the tinsanctified. The old friars who 
started for its summit, to set up the cross there, were never 
heard of again. 

Although believing that most of the volcanic cones have 
been formed in the manner above indicated, by gradual ac- 
cumulations, yet the volcanoes which have shown the greatest 
energy are low and irregular, and devoid of anything re- 
markable in their appearance. Such is the Volcano of Cose- 
/ guina, in Nicaragua, the eruption of which in 1835 was one of 
the most terrible on record. 

On the morning of the 20th of January of that year, sev- 
eral loud explosions were heard for a radius of a hundred 
leagues around this volcano, followed by the rising of an inky 
black cloud above it, through which darted tongues of flame 
resembling lightning. This cloud gradually spread outward, 
obscuring the sun, and shedding over everything a yellow, 
sickly light, and at the same time depositing a fine sand, 
which rendered respiration dif&cult and painful. This con- 
tinued for two days, the obscuration becoming more and 
more dense, the sand falling more thickly, and the explosions 
becoming louder and more frequent. On the third day the 
explosions attained their maximum, and the darkness became 
intense. Sand continued to fall, and people deserted their 
houses and sheltered themselves under tents of hide in the 
courts, fearing the roofs might be crushed beneath the weight. 
This sand fell several inches deep at Leon, more than one 
hundred miles distant. It fell in Jamaica, Yera Cruz, and 
Santa Fe de Bogota, over an area of one thousand five hun- 
dred miles in diameter. The noise of the explosions was 
heard nearly as far, and the Superintendent of Belize, eight 
hundred miles distant, mustered his troops, under the impres- 



ERUPTION OF COSEGUINA. 535 

sion that there was a naval action off the harbor. All Na- 
ture seemed overawed ; the birds deserted the air, and the 
wild beasts their fastnesses, crouching, terror-stricken and 
harmless, in the dwellings of men. The people for a hun- 
dred leagues groped, dumb with horror, amidst the thick 
darkness, bearing crosses on their shoulders and stones on 
their heads, in penitential abasement and dismay. Many 
believed the day of doom had come, and crowded with noise- 
less footsteps over a bed of ashes to the tottering churches, 
where, in the pauses of the explosions, the voices of the 
priests were heard in solemn invocation to Heaven. The 
strongest lights were invisible at the distance of a few feet ; 
and, to heighten the terrors of the scene, occasional light- 
nings traversed the darkness, shedding a lurid glare over the 
earth. This continued for forty -three hours, when the shocks 
of earthquakes and the eruptions ceased, and a brisk wind 
springing up, the obscuration gradually passed away. 

The air was literally filled with an almost impalpable pow- 
der, which entered the eyes, ears, and nostrils, and produced 
a sensation of suffocation, a gasping for breath. At first the 
doors and windows were closed, but without effect ; the ex- 
clusion of air, joined to the intense heat, became intolerable. 
The only relief was found in throwing wetted cloths over 
their heads. The horses and mules suffered not less than the 
people ; many died, and others were saved only by adopting 
the same precautions. 

For some leagues around the volcano, the sand and ashes 
had fallen to the depth of several feet. Of course the ope- 
rations of the volcano could only be known by the results. 
A crater had been opened, several miles in circumference, 
from which had flowed vast quantities of lava into the sea 
on one hand, and the Grulf of Fonseca on the other. The 
verdant sides of the mountain were now rough, burned, 
seamed, and covered with disrupted rocks and fields of lava. 
The quantity of matter ejected was incredible in amount. I 



536 KIOAEAGUA — NARRATIVE. 

am informed by the captain of a vessel wMcli passed along 
the coast a few days thereafter, that the sea for fifty leagues 
was covered with floating masses of pumice, and that he 
sailed for a whole day through it, without being able to dis- 
tinguish but here and there an open space of water. 

The appearance of this mountain is now desolate beyond 
description. Not a trace of life appears upon its parched 
sides. Here and there are openings emitting steam, small 
jets of snioke and sulphurous vapors, and in some places the 
ground is swampy from thermal springs. It is said that the 
discharge of ashes, sand, and lava was followed by a flow of 
water, and the story seems corroborated by the particular 
smoothness of some parts of the slope. The height of this 
mountain is not, I think, more than three thousand five hun- 
dred feet. 

The annivers^ary of this eruption is celebrated in the most 
solemn manner in Nicaragua. I witnessed the ceremony in 
the church of La Merced, where, in common with all the 
foreign residents, I was invited by a circular letter as fol- 
lows : 

Leon Enero 20 de 1850. 

Por imposicion de las sagradas manos de S. E. YUma. el dignisimo Sr. 
Obispo Dr. D. Jorje de Viteri y Ungo, he recibido boy el orden sacro del 
Presbiterado ; y por su disposicion, subire al augusto Altar del Eterno a 
celebrar por la primera ve.z el tremendo sacrificio, el dia 23 del corriente, 
aniversario dicwno quinto de la erupcion del volcan de Ooseguina, en la 
Yglesia de Ntra. Senora de las Mercedes, por cuya poderosa intercesion, 
salvamos en aquella vez de los peligros que nos amenazaron. AUi predi- 
cara el mismo Excmo. Sr., mi amado Prelado. 

Tengo el honor de participarlo todo a U., suplicandole su interesante 

concurrencia, y firmandome con placer, su muy respetuoso seguro servidor 

y capellan Q. B. S. M. 

Eafael Pablo Jerez. 

TRANSLATION. 

Leon, January 20, 1850. 
By the imposition of the sacred hands of His Excellency the most 
illustrious and most dignified Bishop, Dr. Don Jorge de Viteri y Ungo, I 



ERUPTION OF COSEGUINA. 537 

have this day been invested vrith the orders of priesthood ; and by his 
dhection, will ascend the august Altar of the Eternal, to celebrate for the 
first time the tremendous sacrifice, on the fifteenth anniversary of the 
eruption of the volcano of Coseguina, the 23rd inst, in the church of 
our Lady of Mercies, by whose powerful intercession we were then saved 
from the dangers which threatened us. There also will preach the same 
excellent Senor, my beloved prelate. 

I have the honor to inform you of this, and to soHcit your concurrence. 
With pleasure I subscribe myself your very respectful, faithful servant and 
chaplain, 

Who kisses your hands, 

Eafael Pablo Jerez. 

The ceremony was very impressive,^ and the memory of 
the terrible event thus commemorated was evidently strong 
in the minds of those who had witnessed it, and who might 
be distinguished by their greater gravity and devotion. 

It has been observed that any great eruption, like that 

' Byam, an Enghsh traveller, makes the following statement, which is 
copied vnthout any endorsement of its truth : — 

" On the morning of the 23d the fall of ashes became more dense, and 
the natural grave of man seemed to be rising from the earth instead of 
being dug in it. The women, with their heads covered with wet linen, to 
obviate the smothering effect of the falhng dust, again hurried to the 
churches with cries and lamentations, and tried to sing canticles to their 
favorite saints. As a last resort, every saint in the churches of Leon, 
without exception, lest he should be offended, was taken from his niche 
and placed in the open air, — I suppose to enable him to judge from ex- 
perience of the state of affairs — ^but still the ashes fell ! 

" Towards night, however, a mighty wind sprung up from the north, 
and the inhabitants at last gained a view of the sun's setting rays, gilding 
their national volcanoes. Of course the cessation of the shower of ashes 
was attributed to the intercession of these saints, who doubtless wished 
to get under cover again, which opinion was strongly approved of by the 
priests, as they would certainly not be the losers by the many offerin,gs ; 
but during a general procession for thanks, which took place the next day, 
it was discovered that the paint which had been rather clumsily bestowed 
upon the Virgin's face had blistered from the heat of the numerous candles 
burned around it, and half Leon proclaimed that she had caught the small- 
pox during her residence in the city, and in consequence of her anger 



538 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 

above recorded, is often attended by similar phenomena in 
otber and remote localities. Thus, a few weeks after the 
eruption of Coseguina, the whole of New Granada was con- 
vulsed ; the subterranean thunder was heard simultaneously 
in Nicaragua, Popayan, Bogota, Santa Martha, Caraccas, Hayti, 
Curacoa, and Jamaica. These synchronous evidences of ac- 
tivity in subterranean forces is very well illustrated in the 
recent earthquakes in Yenezuela, Peru, ChUi, the Antilles, 
Central America, Mexico, and California. The centres of 
greatest violence seem to have been in Costa Eica, Yenezuela, 
and Chili. In Costa Eica the places nearest the volcanoes of 
Orosi and Cartago suffered most ; among these were the 
cities of San Jose and Heredia, and the town of Barba. 
Many churches and private dwellings were thrown down oi 
injured. The shocks occurred on the 18th of March . last 
(1851) at about 8 o'clock in the morning ; on the Isthmus of 
Panama on the 15th of May ; in Chile on the 2d of April. 
The amount of property destroyed in Valparaiso was estima- 
ted at a million and a half of dollars. In the island of 
Guadaloupe the earthquakes commenced on the 16th of May, 
and continued until the 18th; and in San Francisco they 
were felt on the 15th of the same month.^ 

The volcano nearest Leon is that of Telica, which is the 

the infliction they had just suffered was imposed upon them. Innumera- 
ble were the candles burnt before the ' Queen of Heaven,' and many and 
valuable the offerings to her priests, for the sake of propitiation," — Wan- 
derings, p. 37. 

' A number of severe earthquakes have happened within the last feiv 
years. One occurred in Gruatemala in 1830, nearly if not quite >as severe 
as that of 1773. In February, 1831, and September, 1839, severe shocks 
were felt in San Salvador, and in 1841 in Costa Rica. The last nearly 
destroyed the city of Cartago, which had previously suffered a similar 
catastrophe. May, 1844, was distinguished throughout Nicaragua by a 
series of earthquakes occurring at regular intervals, over a period of sev- 
eral days. The city of Nicaragua suffered much, and the waters of the 
lake were observed to rise and faU with the throes of the earth. 



VOLCANO OF TELICA. 539 

smallest of the group, being not more than three thousand 
feet high, but exceedingly regular in outline. It has recently 
been ascended by my friend Prof. Julius Frcebel, whose 
interesting account I subjoin : 

" From Leon, I made an excursion to the volcanic cone of Telica, which 
is more easy of ascent than any other peak in the neighborhood. In 
fact, the road to the summit is more fatiguing than dangerous. I rode 
one evening to tlfxe village of Telica, which is two leagues distant from 
Leon. I mounted my horse the next morning at 4 o'clock, in company 
with a good guide, and well provided with water and provisions. At 
first by moonlight and afterwards in the morning twihght, we rode, 
slowly ascending, through a thick forest. The path gradually became 
more steep and rough. As the forests disappeared, savannas followed, 
which, where they had been recently swept by fire, were clothed with a 
fresh and tender green. Manifold trees and shrubs, some without leaves, 
but gay with blossoms, formed park-like groups in the broad mountain 
meadows. One of these small, elevated valleys was ravishingly beautiful. 
It was surrounded by the highest summits, whose sides are covered with 
grass, out of which shoot the single stems of the wine-palm, (coyo\) while 
a httle grove of this and other trees, mixed with shrubbery, stood in the 
lake of grass, six feet deep, which fiUed the bottom. The coyol-pahn 
furnishes, by tapping, a sweet, coohng, and healthy juice, which is some- 
times drunk when fresh and sometimes when undergoing fermentation, 
under the name of chicha-coyol. The nuts which depend from the crown 
in immense clusters, are about the size of small apples. They are a fa- 
vorite food of cattle, and are sometimes eaten by the natives ; they furnish 
an oil, which is much finer than the cocoa oil, and is adapted to a variety 
of uses. 

" At last, high above, the grass grows scattered among sharp blocks of 
lava, which make the road toilsome and dangerous. At the limit of 
shrubbery we left our horses and all our heavy equipments behind, and 
continued our journey on foot. In an hour we had reached the summit, 
and stood on the edge of a crater from two to three hundred feet deep. 
We lowered ourselves with a rope down a perpendicular wall of rock, 
from sixty to seventy feet deep, and then clambered toward the centre. 
The hot steam which here and there came from the damp and heated 
earth, and a great weakness which I felt in consequence of a violent fit 
of vomiting that seized me on the way, prevented me from penetrating 
into the lowest depths. There is Mttle of interest to be seen there, how- 



540 NIOAEAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 

ever ; for the crater is filled with fragments which have tumbled down 
from the side walls, so that, with the exception of some crystals of sul- 
phur and sublimated salts, no substance is to be found which I had not 
already picked up on the side of the mountain. It is a mass of black, 
porous lava, faded to a reddish brown on the outside from the effects of 
the weather, and sprinkled with small crystals of glassy feldspar. On the 
outside, near the summit, it is frequently raised into oven-shaped curves, 
with a laminar division of the strata, but generally occurs in angular 
masses or flat cakes. The whole mountain, hke all the cones of this 
region, has been built up by the masses hurled from its depths. In the 
crater I found a few small specimens of crystalhne lime, and others of a 
remarkably hard variety of augite. Inside and deep down, there was a 
small bush, apparently a vacdnium, (whortleberry,) with panicles of 
beautiful white, hirsute, bell-shaped flowers, and some bunches of taste- 
less blackberries. On the upper edge of the crater I found an orchidce, 
whose crimson spike of blossoms resembled some varieties of our Grerman 
orchis. A small fir-tree stood rooted among the rocks near the summit ; 
the other vegetation was grass and a few insignificant weeds, 

" The view from the summit is magnificent. Near at hand is the whole 
group of volcanoes, from Momotombo to Viejo. Behind the former of 
these flashes the Lake of Managua, a great part of which is visible. Over 
and beyond it, the landscape is lost in the haze of distance. On the other 
hand, the eye wanders wide over the uncertain horizon of the Pacific, 
against which are traced, in sharp outline, the winding bays and head- 
lands of the coast. You can trace its irregular line from the neighborhood 
of Realejo far to the south-east, and overlook the isthmus between the 
Ocean and Lake Managua. To the north you have the long mountain 
chain which stretches from the San Juan River, along the north-eastern 
shores of Lakes Nicaragua and Managua, through the districts of Ohon- 
tales, Matagalpa and New Segovia, to the States of Honduras and San 
Salvador. At the foot of this chain, which is completely separated from 
the volcanic group of Momotombo, Telica, and Viejo, rise a number of 
conical hills, some of them in the plain which extends from the north- 
western extremity of Lake Managua behind the volcanoes, toward the 
Gulf of Fonseca, The whole view is a splendid picture of plain and moun- 
tain, covered with brilliant vegetation as far as the eye can reach, the 
rich, cultivated plantations being scarcely discernible in the vast space. 
Here and there the shimmer of a sheet of water enlivens the universal 
green. 

" I reached the village in time to return to Leon the same evening. A 
few days previously I had visited two sulphur springs at the foot of this 



VOLCANO OF EL VIEJO. 641 

mountain — called respectively San Jacinto and Tisate. At the former 
place, a hot, insipid, reddish-brown water, whose steam had an acrid, sul- 
phurous flavor, boils up from the soil in numberless small holes. Through 
the agency of various metallic salts and oxides, the hot, soft clay exhibits 
all shades of white, yellow, brown, red, green, blue and black, while the 
soil is crusted with sublimated sulphur and freed salts of different kinds. 
At the latter place, a sort of ashy gray, boiling slime, or rather clay-broth, 
is hurled into the air from a small crater. Near it a hill has been formed 
of the same variegated earths and salts as are seen at San Jacinto. These 
are two genuine chemical laboratories, where a number of processes are 
going on. In the clayey slime, penetrated with hot steam, sulphuric acids 
and gases, I found thousands of shining sulphur pyrites, which, according 
to all appearances, were constantly forming." 

The volcano of El Yiejo was ascended in 1838, by Capt. 
Belclier, of tlie British Navy, who made its absolute height 
5562 feet ; but according to my own admeasurements it is just 
6000 feet. As the cone of Bl Yiejo rises sheer from the 
plain, it probably appears much higher than the more 
elevated peak of Cartago, which rises from an elevated 
mountain range. Capt. Belcher thus describes his ascent: 

" At four p. M., having procured guides, we proceeded to the foot of the 
mountain, where we designed sleeping. Our journey lay partly through 
the woods, where the guides halted for a draught of the fermented juice 
of the palm, which they had prepared in their previous visits, and others 
were now tapped, in readiness for our return. After scrambhug through 
much loose lava-rock, which I was surprised to see the animals attempt, 
as it was entirely hidden by long grass, we reached our sleeping station 
at seven o'clock, when, having picked out the softest stone bed, and teth- 
ered our animals, we made the most of our time in the way of sleeping. 

" At dawn on the 10th (of February), we remounted our animals, and 
passed stUl more difficult ground, until half-past six, when we reached 
the . lower line of the " Pine range," that tree observing a distinct line 
throughout all these mountain ranges. It became, therefore, a matter of 
interest to ascertain this elevation, which by barometric data is 3000 feet 
above the sea level. Temperature at this time (before sunrise) 66" of 
Fahrenheit. 

" Having tethered our beasts, we now commenced our ascent a pied. 
The first efforts, owing to the long grass, were fatiguing, and the mate was 



542 NICAEAGUA — NAREATIVE. 

liors du combat before we reached half way. As we ascended, the grass dis- 
appeared, the breeze freshened, and spirits rose, and at nine we had turned 
the hp of the crater. Here I was surprised by a peak presenting itself 
on the opposite side of the crater, and apparently inaccessible. I never- 
theless descended to the edge of the inner cone, from whence I thought 
I discovered a narrow pass ; but it was only by dint of perseverance and 
determination that we could persuade the guides to re-shoulder the in- 
struments and go ahead. Difficulties vanished as we proceeded, and we 
found a path beaten by the wild bullocks, which led to the very peak. 
Here I obtained the requisite observations for determining the position and 
height. The range of the temperature here during our stay (from half 
past ten until half past one) was from 77° to 80° Fahrenheit. 

" I was unfortunate in the day ; it blew freshly (although calm at the 
base), was hazy, and excepting high peaks and headlands, I lost the most 
interesting minutiae. The volcano now consists of three craters. The 
outer one is about fifteen hundred feet in diameter, having the peak, or 
highest lip, on the western edge. Within, it is precipitous, for the depth 
of about one hundred and fifty feet. From the inner base, at that depth, 
rises the second inner volcano, to the height of about eighty feet, having 
within it still another cone. Around the western base of the first or 
inner, the cliffs rise precipitously, with luxuriant pines growing from the 
vertical face. Here vapors arise from many points, and doubtless to this 
cause they are indebted for their peculiarly healthy and vigorous condi- 
tion. No minerals worthy of carriage were discovered. We had been 
informed that sulphur was abundant, but those who descended to look 
for it found none. Here there was a hot spring, the temperature of which 
exceeded the range of my thermometers, doubtless coming up to the boil- 
ing point. The view was very beautiful ; the map of the country was at 
my feet ; even the main features of the Lake of Managua were visible. 
Mem. People who ascend high mountains, with weak heads and weaker 
stomachs, should reserve spirits for cases of necessity only — as medi- 
cine !"i 

Besides the hot springs mentioned by Capt. Belclier, at 
tlie summit of El Viejo, there are also orifices emitting rills 
of smoke, which, under favorable states of the asmosphere, 
may be seen from Leon. When the pirate Dampier was on 
this coast, this volcano exhibited unmistakable signs of life ; 

^" Voyage Eound the World," vol. i. p. 162. 



SUBTEREANEAN" LAVA BEDS. 543 

for this old voyager states expressly that it was an " exceed- 
ingly high mountain, smoking all day, and sending out 
flames at night ''^ 

The great plain of Leon, at its highest part, is elevated 
abont two hundred feet above the sea ; yet in the vicinity of 
the range of volcanoes which traverses it, in digging wells, 
beds of lava, fifteen feet thick, have been found, at the depth 
of seventy-five Spanish varas, or about two hundred and 
ten feet, and this at a point not the highest of the plain, but 
ancording to my calculations only one hundred and thirty feet 
above the ocean. Unless there is some great error in these 
data, and I can discover of none, they would seem to prove 
that there has been a subsidence of the plain since the almost 
infinitely remote period when the stream of lava flowed up- 
wards from the depths of the earth. I may mention that in 
the vicinity of the volcanoes, water is scarce, and can only 
be obtained by digging to great depths. The particular well 
to which I refer is at the cattle estate de las Palmas, eighteen 
miles north-east of Leon, and is upward of three hundred 
feet in depth, the water pure, with no saline materials in 
solution. 

Much might be said on the phenomena of earthquakes as 
they occur in this country. The shocks seem to be of two 
classes ; the perpendicular, which are felt only in the vicinity 
of volcanoes, and the horizontal, which reach over wide tracts 
of country. The latter are very unequal; in some places 
being violent, and in others, nearer their assumed source, 
comparatively slight. The undulating movement seems to 
be only a modification of the horizontal or vibratory. Some- 
times these motions are all combined, or rather succeed each 
other with great rapidity. Such was the case with the earth- 
quake of the 27th of October, 1850, which I experienced, 
and of which I can speak authoritatively. It occurred at 

1" Voyage Eound the World," vol. i. p. 119. 



544 NICAEAGUA — ISTAERATIVE. 

about one o'clock in the morning. I was aroused from sleep 
by a strong undulatorj motion, which, was sufficiently violent 
to move my bed several inches backward and forth on the 
rough paved floor, and to throw down books and other 
articles which had been placed on my table. The tiles of 
the roof were also rattled together violently, and the beams 
and rafters creaked like the timbers of a deeply-laden vessel 
in a heavy sea. The people all rushed from their houses in 
the greatest alarm, and commenced praying in loud tones. 
The domestic animals seemed to share the general conster- 
nation ; the horses struggled as if to loose themselves, and 
the dogs commenced a simultaneous barking. This undula- 
tory motion lasted nearly a minute, steadily increasing in 
violence, until suddenly it changed into a rapid vibratory or 
horizontal motion, which rendered it difficult to stand 
upright. This lasted about thirty seconds, and was followed 
as suddenly by a vertical movement, or a series of shocks, 
such as one would experience in being rapidly let down a 
flight of steps, then declined in violence, but nevertheless 
seemed to stop abruptly. The whole lasted about two 
minutes, and can be compared to nothing except the rapid 
movement of a large and loaded railroad car over a bad 
track, in which there are undulations, horizontal irregu- 
larities, and breaks. 

No considerable damage was done. Some old walls were 
thrown down, but in various places in the country I afterwards 
observed that rocks had been detached and portions of cliffs 
broken off by the shocks. The thick adobe walls of my 
house were cracked in several places from top to bottom. 
Many other buildings suffered in like manner. The motion 
which seemed most dangerous to me was that which I have 
described as horizontal^ in which the earth seemed to slide 
away from beneath my feet. 

The night was clear moonlight, and it was very still ; not 
a breath of air seemed stirring. The orange trees in my 



PHENOMENA OF EARTHQUAKES. 546 

courtyard, during the continuance of the undulations, swayed 
regularly to and fro ; but when the other movements followed, 
they had an unsteady or tremulous motion. The water in 
my well, which was very deep, seemed also much agitated. 
The direction of the undulations was from north to south, 
and they were felt throughout the entire State of Nicaragua, 
and in Honduras and San Salvador, and even perhaps beyond 
these limits. 

I learned from old residents, that, as compared with the 
others which, have occurred within the last quarter of a cen- 
tury, this earthquake ranked as about seven, the maximum 
being ten. 

All observers here concur in saying that, while earthquakes 
are common at all times of the year, they are much more 
numerous and violent at the entrance and close of the two 
seasons, the wet and the dry ; that is, about the last of 
October and the first of November, and the last of April and 
the first of May. They are observed as particularly numer- 
ous and strong after the heavy rains, at the close of the wet 
season in October. It is also observed that a general quiet 
seems to prevail, for a period, both before and after their 
occurrence.^ 

'' Oviedo observes respecting the earthquakes of the country, that "they 

are frequent at the time of storms, — though to tell the truth, rain rarely 

falls. These shocks," he adds, " are not Ught, but are real earthquakes, 

very severe and very long. During my stay in this city, I have seen some 

violent ones, so much so as to compel us to abandon the houses, through 

fear of being crushed to death beneath them, and to take refuge in the 

streets and squares. I have counted upwards of sixty shocks within 

twenty-four hours, and that for several days. During the shocks the 

lightning struck and inflamed houses. AU this I saw at Leon, but certainly 

these earthquakes cannot be compared with those of the city of PozzuoU, 

which I saw completely overthrown by an earthquake, of the same kind 

with those at Leon. If this last mentioned city had been built of stone, 

Hke those of Spain, it would soon have been destroyed, with great loss 

of lives." 

35 



546 NICARAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 

It is difficult to discover the connection between these 
different phenomena, but there seems to be a concurrence as 
to the facts here stated. It is certainly true, that the only 
shocks which I have felt were in the periods indicated, and 
it is also certain that nearly all occur in the night. Perhaps, 
amidst the occupations and distractions of the day, the lesser 
ones pass unobserved. 

There are many striking features in the topography of 
Central America, which seem entirely due to volcanic agency. 
Those which have more particularly attracted my attention, 
are what are popularly denominated extinct craters, now 
partially filled with water, forming lakes without outlets or 
apparent sources of supply, save the rains. Some of these 
occur on the mountain and hill ranges, and are surrounded 
by evidences of having been volcanic vents. But this is not 
always the case. The Lake of Masaya, which I have already 
described, may be taken as an example. It is not less than 
eight or ten miles in circumference, and is not far from one 
thousand feet, perhaps more, below the general level of the 
country. The sides are sheer precipices of trachytic rocks, 
splintered and blistered, and exhibiting every indication of 
having been exposed to the intensest heat. Yet, if these 
were true craters, where are the lava, ashes, and other 
materials which they have ejected? There are certainly 
none in their vicinity, which have emanated from them, no 
traces of lava streams surrounding them, nor are their edges 
elevated above the general level. Upon one side of the 
particular one which I have mentioned, rises the extinct 
volcano of Masaya or JSTindiri, with its proper crater, whence 
have flowed vast quantities of lava, part of which, falling 
over the precipitous walls of the lake, have quite filled it 
upon that side. Some of the lakes are more or less impreg- 
nated with saline materials, but others are perfectly fresh, 
and abound in fish. The burned and blistered walls indicate, 



VOLCANOES OF THE MARABIOS. 547 

it appears to me, that they have not been caused by the 
subsidence, or the falling in of the earth. 

Oviedo makes special mention of the range of volcanoes 
to which I have so often alluded, which he calls by the abo- 
riginal name, " Marabios." At the time of his visit, some of 
them were active, or rather sent out large quantities of 
smoke. These were probably Santa Clara and Telica, which 
appear to have been most recently in a state of eruption. 
He says, " About the centre of this chain three peaks can 
be distinguished, rising one behind the other. They are 
very steep on the north side, and descend gradually to the 
plain on the southern. This country is very fertile ; and as 
the east winds reign here continually, the western portion is 
always covered with smoke, proceeding from these three 
mountains, the most elevated of the chain, and five or six 
leagues in circumference. The volcano the nearest to the city 
of Leon (Telica) is four or five leagues off. It sometimes 
happens, when the north wind blows strong, that the smoke, 
instead of escaping on the western side, as usual, takes a 
southern course ; then it scorches and withers the maize 
fields and other productions of the soil, and causes great 
mischief in the villages, which are numerous. The ground 
suffers to such a degree from the heat, that it remains arid for 
four or five years after." 

I have elsewhere introduced Oviedo's account of his visit 
to the volcano of Masaya. In another part of his MS., the 
chronicler gives a summary of the relation of the Fray Bias 
de Castillo, who, in 1834, descended into the crater of this j '^ pn 
volcano. It seems that in his narrative the Fray referred to 
the Historian in such a manner as to excite his anger, and in 
consequence he indulges in several pungent little episodes in 
the resume, of which the following is a very fair example : 
"It is a hard matter," observes Oviedo, "to contradict all 
the falsehoods diffused through the world ; and even if sue- 



548 NICARAGUA — ISTAIIRATIVE. . 

cessful in so doing, it is a matter of greater difficulty to un- 
deceive those "who have heard them. Now if the Fray Bias 
de Castillo had thought that his account would one day fall 
into my hands, he would not have said that I, Gonzales 
Hernandez de Oviedo y Yaldez, Chronicler General of the 
Indies, had asked permission of his Majesty to place the 
volcano of Masaya on my coat of arms, because I had hap- 
pened to visit it. I have never made such a request; I have 
no desire to carry such arms ; nor do I think any Christian 
would approve of it; the Fray has lied !"^ 

The descent of the Fray Bias was conducted with great 
secrecy, and under the full belief that the molten matter 
seen at the bottom of the crater was gold or silver. " This 
matter," he says, "resembles a red sea, and its commotions 
make as much noise as do the waves, of the ocean when they 
dash against the rocks. This sea looks like the metal of 
which bells are made, or sulphur or gold, in a state of fusion, 
except that it is covered with a black scum, two or three 
fathoms thick. Were it not for this mass of scum, or scoriae, 
the fire would throw out such an ardor and lustre that it 
would be impossible to remain near it, or look upon it. 
Sometimes it breaks apart in certain places, and then one 
can perceive the matter, red and brilliant as the light of 
heaven. In the midst constantly rise two large masses of 
melted metal, four or five fathoms across, which are con- 

1 Although Oviedo denies so indignantly that he received the volcano 
of Masaya as a device on his coat of arms, yet, having resided thirty 
years under the tropics, the Emperor Charles V. gave him the four beau- 
tiful stars of the Southern Cross as amorial bearings. This method of 
rewarding men was common in the active period following the Discovery. 
Thus Columbus received, as the chronicler words it" para subhmarlo," to 
honor him, the first map of America,— a range of islands in front of a 
Gulf: Sebastian de Elcano, the first circumnavigator of the globe, a globe 
with the inscription, "Primus circumdedisti me:" and Diego de Ordaz, 
who first ascended the volcano of Orizaba, a drawing of that high and 
conical mountain. 



VOLCANO OP MASATA. 549 

stantly free from the scum, and from wliicli tlie liquid metal 
leaps forth on every side. The sound of these melted 
streams, dashing amongst the rocks, is like that of artillery 
battering the walls of a city. The rocks around this sea of 
metal are black to the height of seven or eight fathoms, 
which proves that the Hquid matter sometimes rises to that 
distance. Upon the north-eastern side of the crater is the 
opening of a cavern, very deep, and as wide as the range of 
an arquebus. A stream of burning fluid flows into this 
cavern, which seems to be the outlet of the crater. It runs 
for a few moments, stops, then commences again, and so on 
constantly. There comes forth from this cavern a thick 
smoke, greater than rises from the whole lake, which dif- 
ftises on all sides a very strong odor. There comes forth 
also, a heat and brilliancy which cannot be described. 
During the night the summit of the mountain is perfectly 
illuminated, as are also the clouds, which seem to form a 
kind of tiara above it, which may be seen eighteen or 
twenty leagues on the land, and upwards of thirty at sea. 
The darker the night the more brilliant the volcano. It is 
worthy of remark, that neither above nor below can the least 
flame be seen, except when a stone or arrow is thrown into 
the crater, which burns like a candle. 

" During rains and tempests, the volcano is most active ; 
for when the storm reaches its height, it makes so many 
movements that one might say it was a living thing. The 
heat is so great that the rain is turned into vapor before 
reaching the bottom of the crater, and entirely obscures it. 
Both Indians and Spaniards affirm, that since the Conquest, 
during a very rainy year, the burning metal rose to the top 
of the crater, and that the heat was then so great that every- 
thing was burnt for a league around. Such a quantity of 
burning vapor came from it, that the trees and plants were 
dried up for more than two leagues. Indeed, one cannot 
behold the volcano without fear, admiration, and repentance 



550 NICAEAGUA — NARRATIVE. 

of Ms sins ; for it can be surpassed only by tbe eternal fire. 
Some confessors bave imposed no otber penance tban to visit 
tbis volcano." 

Oviedo adds, tbat, altbougb no animals were to be found 
on tbe volcano or its slopes, paroquets abounded, botb on the 
summit of tbe mountain and witbin tbe crater, at tbe time 
tbe volcano was still active. Tbe Fray Bias made two de- 
scents into tbe crater, and by means of a cbain lowered an 
iron bucket into tbe molten mass of lava. He was mucb 
disappointed in procuring only a mass of gray pumice, wben 
be bad expected to find pure silver or gold. Tbe second 
descent was performed in tbe presence of tbe Governor, wbo 
afterwards forbade any similar enterprises. Tbe fires are 
now cold in tbe crater, and tbe " Hell of Masaya " is extin- 
guisbed. 




THE PAROQnET. 



CHAPTBE XX. 

CHRISTMAS — NAOIMIENTOS — THE CATHEDEAL ON CHRISTMAS EVE — MIDNIGHT 

CEREMONIES — AN ALARM — ^ATTEMPT AT REVOLUTION FIGHT IN THE PLAZA 

— TRIUMPH OF ORDER — THE DEAD — MELANCHOLY SCENES — A SCHEME OF 
FEDERATION. 

Christmas is celebrated with mucli ceremony in all Catk- 
olic countries ; and upon my return to Leon, I found the 
Senoras of the city busily engaged in preparing for it. I 
was delighted to learn that we were, to have something a 
little different from the eternal hombas and interminable pro- 
cessions. In nearly every house, a room was set apart for a 
representation of the nacimiento, or birth, in which the taste 
of the mistresses was variously exhibited. When these are 
arranged, on the evening before Christmas, they are thrown 
open to inspection, and for a week the principal "business of 
the women and children is to go from house to house, to see 
the nacimientos^ criticise, and institute comparisons. I saw 
but two, at the houses respectively of Gen. Munoz, and my 
friend Col. Zapata. In each case the representation filled an 
entire half of a large room. Two or three young palms 
were set on each side of the apartment, so as to embower a 
kind of grotto, covered all over with brilliant shells and 
stones, and draped with vines and flowers. Within this 
grotto was a miniature figure of the Yirgin and the Infant 
Jesus, surrounded by the kneeling figures of the Magi, Saint 
Joseph, "Nuestra Senor San Joaquin," and " Nuestra Senora 
Santa Ana," the husband of Mary, and the accredited grand- 
father and grandmother of the holy babe. 



552 NICARAaUA — ^NARRATIVE. , 

The room was darkened, and tlie effect very beautiful ; 
for tlie wliole was brilliantly illuminated by concealed can- 
dles, and the figures multiplied, and the perspective rendered 
almost interminable by small, but artfully arranged mirrors. 
A railing prevented any one from approaching so near as to 
weaken the effect, or discover the arrangement. At this 
time everybody, whatever his condition, is allowed to enter, 
unquestioned, into every house which has its nacimiento ; 
and it was a singular spectacle to witness brawny Indians, 
naked children, and gayly-dresse(l*i^enoras grouped together, 
and gazing in decorous silence upon a spectacle so closely 
interwoven with their traditions, and suggestive of the most 
cherished doctrines of their" church. Senora Zapata carried 
off the palm of honor ; her nacimiento was not more taste- 
fully nor more expensively got up than the others ; but she 
had put a music-box, with a boy to wind it up, behind the 
scenes, which regularly tinkled through its round of tunes, 
commencing with the " Marsellaise," and ending with "A 
Life on the Ocean Wave." This was unanimously voted 
to be about "the thing," and the little Indians of Subtiaba 
thronged the Colonel's doors from early dawn to midnight, 
unwearied listeners to the unseen musician, and no doubt be- 
lieving that the melodies were produced by the extraordinary 
Magi who knelt so stifQy and grim around the Virgin Mo- 
ther. The exhibition of the nacimiento continues for nine 
days, and the period is therefore sometimes called a Novena. 

But the crowning features of Christmas were the ceremo- 
nies on the eve of that day, in the Cathedral. Here, back 
of the great altar, was a representation of the adoration 
of the Magi on a grand scale. Large trees bent above the 
stable occupied by the Holy Family, and the figures intro- 
duced were nearly as large as life. Heavy curtains hung 
from the ceiling "upon either hand, behind which strong lights 
threw a flood of radiance upon the scene, while the rest of the; 
great temple was shrouded in darkness, or but dimly revealed 



CHRISTMAS CEREMONIES. 553 

by tlie reflected liglit, and by the lamps of tbe musicians in 
the choir, and of the chanting priests in the nave beneath it. 
It was hardly dark before the people began to gather from 
all parts of the city, including hundreds who had come from 
the neighboring villages. When I reached the Cathedral, 
the entire central aisle was filled with kneeling women, their 
heads shrouded in their rebosos, or covered with mantillas, 
gazing in silence upon the holy group, while the music of 
the choir and the monotonous chants of the priests seemed 
to be almost lost amongst the columns and arches, in low, 
wandering echoes. As the night advanced, the devotional 
feehngs of the silent multitude became roused, a hum of 
prayer filled the Cathedral, and as midnight approached, 
many of the women seemed lost in wild, religious fervor ; 
the notes of the musicians, and the voices of the priests, be- 
fore subdued, now rose high and exultant ; and when the 
clock announced midnight, all the bells of the city struck up 
a joyful chime, and the vast auditory rising to its feet, 
joined in the triumphant refrain, " Jubilate ! Christ is born !" 
A procession of priests advanced, and the "Virgin and Son 
were reverently placed upon a crimson cushion, and beneath 
a silken canopy, supported by rods of silver, they were car- 
ried out into the plaza, where the military, with arms pre- 
sented, heads uncovered, and bending on one knee, paid 
their adoration, while the procession moved slowly around 
the square, repeating, " Hosannah ! hosannah ! Christ is 
born !" How late the ceremonies continued I know not, for 
I went home and to bed, not a little impressed by the scene 
which I had witnessed. 

But little more than a week after this, I was witness of a 
widely different scene in the same plaza. It was a quiet 
and exceeding beautiful afternoon. An American friend 
from Honduras had dined with me, and we were discussing 
a luscious papaya, preparatory to the afternoon siesta in the 
hammocks under the corridor, when we heard a sudden firing 



554 NICARAGUA — ^NAREATIVE. 

in tlie direction of tlie plaza. The sound of tlie discharges 
appeared to me to be singularly distinct and emphatic, but 
supposing that some fiesta was in progress, with the usual 
homha accompaniment, I made no remark. The discharges 
continued, and became more general, and shortly after Ben 
entered the room hurriedly, and touching his hat said, " Sir, 
I think there's a revolution !" 

"Oh, no, Ben, it is only some fiesta." 
" But, sir, the spent balls have fallen in the court !" 
I had no time to reply, before the alarm, " Un asalto de 
las armas !" was raised in the streets, and the next moment 
a crowd of women and children, terror depicted in every 
face, rushed through the open zaguan, and along the corri- 
dors. These were followed by a confused mass, bare-headed, 
and in the greatest disorder, which came pouring over the 
walls into my courtyard. They all crowded around me for 
protection. Amongst them were a dozen young men, who 
should have taken their arms, and rallied to the aid of the 
authorities, but who stood here pale and craven. My pre- 
dominant feeling towards these was anger and contempt ; and 
I directed Ben to raise the United States flag, and stationed 
my American friend with a drawn sword at the door, with 
orders to admit all women, children, and old men, but not 
to allow a single able-bodied man to enter. While this was 
going on, the firing continued, and women, with trunks, 
boxes, and bundles, containing their valuables, thronged into 
my house for safety, filling the rooms and corridors, and 
huddling in groups in the courtyard. Some prayed, and 
others ran wildly here and there in quest of their children, 
or husbands, or brothers, wringing their hands, and appeal- 
ing to me to save them. 

The whole affair was a surprise, and comprehending how 
important to the country was interior quiet at this moment, 
I instantly determined to encounter all risks, and endeavor to 
put a stop to the outbreak before it should proceed to gene* 



ATTEMPTED REVOLUTIOISr. 555 

ral hostilities. Accompanied by Ben, I mounted mj horse 
and started for the plaza. The streets were filled with the 
flying, terrified inhabitants, who, in reply to every question, 
only ejaculated, " Un asalto de las armas !" and pointed hope- 
lessly in the direction of the plaza. At the first corner I met 
Dr. Clark returning from visiting a patient in the suburbs, 
and tossing him a pistol, he joined us. At that moment, the 
President of the State, accompanied by his secretary, dashed 
past us towards the seat of the commotion. We followed ; 
but the firing now slackened, and just as we reached the 
plaza, ceased altogether. The smoke rose a little as we 
entered, and I was rejoiced to see the erect form of General 
Munoz, at the head of a column of veterans, advancing with 
fixed bayonets towards the principal cuartel. The next 
moment he commanded a halt, and his men deployed into 
line. He strode down the ranks, leading off in the shout, 
" Yiva el Gobierno Supreme ! Mueran a los enemigos del 
orden !" in which the men joined in a half frantic tone of 
exultation. 

The soldiers now caught sight of me, and spontaneously 
commenced cheering for the United States ; the Bishop, 
who had made his appearance on the balcony of his house, 
joining in the shouts. The General advanced, and shaking 
my hand, said rapidly, all was over and all was well, and 
then, with the promptitude of a man equal to every emer- 
gency, detached the various divisions of his men to the more 
important points in the city. The soldiers defiled past, and 
at the head of a detachment, his eyes flashing with excite- 
ment, and every movement indicating the energy of his 
character, was the negro officer to whom I have elsewhere 
referred. I observed that his sword was dripping with 
blood. 

The movement of the soldiers disclosed the front of the 
general cuartel, and exposed a spectacle such as I hope 
never again to see. Beneath the archway, still clutching 



556 NICAEAGUA — NAEKATIVE. 

their weapons, were tlie bodies of two men, wlio seemed to 
have been killed in endeavoring to force an entrance ; while 
a little in front, his garments saturated with blood, was the 
body of a well-dressed man, over whom a woman was kneel- 
ing. Her hands were clasped npon his shoulders, and she 
was gazing with an expression of -unutterable anguish into 
his fixed, cold eyes. I rode nearer, and recognized in the 
person of the dead man my friend Don Jose Maria Morales, 
Magistrate of the Supreme Court of Justice, who, at the first 
alarm, had rushed to the support of the Grovernment, and 
had fallen a victim to his zeal. The woman was his sister, 
who seeing him engaged, regardless of all danger, had pene- 
trated the array of combatants, to his side. But it was too 
late ; he could only ejaculate " mi hermana !" my sister, and 
died in her arms. The spectaicle was most affecting ; and the 
tears glistened in the eyes of the rude men who stood around 
the living and the dead. 

I turned from this sad spectacle, and then observed, drawn 
up in front of the Cathedral, a body of some two hundred 
citizens, who, at the instant the commotion was known, had 
repaired, arms in hand, to the plaza. This was the first time 
they had done so for years, and it afforded the best evidence 
of the spirit which hope had infused into the hitherto despon- 
dent people of the country. It showed that they were now 
determined to maintain public order, and instead of flying to 
the fields upon the first symptoms of disturbance, to stand 
by their families and property, and defend their rights and 
their homes. 

When I reached my house, I found that the crowd of 
refugees had already nearly dispersed. They were used to 
these things ; revolutions with them were like thunder 
storms, here one moment, gone the next. My rooms never- 
theless were still encumbered with valuables, and during the 
rest of the afternoon, in anticipation of every contingency, 
packages of papers and of money continued to come in. I 



ATTEMPTED REVOLUTION. 557 

will venture to say, more tlian a hundred thousand dollars in 
gold was brought to my room, within the space of two hours, 
and chiefly by persons who were not suspected of having an 
extra medio in the world. Experience had taught them the 
necessity of keeping a sum of ready money at hand, in event 
of revolution ; and also of keeping it so completely concealed, 
as not to excite a suspicion of their possessing it. I placed 
it all within a large chest, where most of it remained for two 
or three months, until all symptoms of disorder had passed 
away. 

The city was full of rumors concerning the escaramuza^ and 
it was not until late in the evening, when I was called upon 
by Senor Buitrago, Secretary of War, that I learned the 
facts in the case. It proved that the assault was made by a 
party of disaffected men belonging to the Barrio of the 
Laberinto, in which is concentrated the worst part of the 
population of the city, under the lead of two men of notorious 
character, who had both been killed, and whose bodies I had 
seen beneath the archway of the cuartel. Their plans had 
been matured with the profoundest secrecy, and evidently b}'" 
men moving in a different sphere of life, and having the 
control of considerable ready money. The time and mode 
of the attack had been well chosen. During the festivals of 
Christmas and the New Year, a large number of cane booths 
had been erected in the plaza ; and the conspirators, half a 
dozen at a time, had entered the square, and dispersed them- 
selves amongst these booths, concealing their arms beneath 
their clothes. In this manner several hundreds had come in 
unsuspected. The point of attack was the Cuartel General, 
in which the arms of the State are deposited, and at the 
.entrance of which only a half dozen men were on guard ; the 
rest of the little garrison, at this time of the day, being 
occupied with their dinner. A few of the leading facciosos 
carelessly advanced in front of the building, as if to pass it, 
and then made a sudden rush upon the little guard, with the 



558 NICAEAGUA— FAREATIVE. 

view of disarming them, and taking tlie rest by surprise. 
The movement was made, and in an instant the conspirators 
in the booths advanced from their concealment, shouting, 
" Down with the Government ! " The little guard at the 
gate was overpowered, and had it not been for the negro 
officer Clemente Eodriguez, it is likely the cuartel would 
have been captured. He was stationed at the opposite side 
of the square, at the cabildo, with a picquet guard of thirty 
men. Seeing the commotion, and supposing there was a 
revolt among the men of the principal cuartel, he ordered his 
guard to fire upon the confused mass which had collected in 
front of it. His example was followed by the guard at the 
Government House and the Cathedral. Distracted by this 
unexpected demonstration in their rear, the facciosos hesi- 
tated, affording time for the garrison to recover their arms. 
This was the critical moment, and Clemente, charging with 
fixed bayonets, decided the struggle, killing the leader of the 
insurgents with his own hands. In a few minutes the 
General, at the head of the company stationed at the Church 
of the Mercedes, reached the plaza. But the facciosos were 
all gone, no one knew where. They had mingled with the 
populace, the instant they saw that failure was inevitable, 
and no doubt hurrahed as loudly for the Government five 
minutes thereafter, as if they had always been its warmest 
supporters. 

The vigilance of the authorities was again roused ; and 
the city, for a month, wore something of the aspect which it 
bore upon our arrival. A number of arrests were made, but 
the details and instigators of the plot were never discovered. 
There were some facts disclosed, however, which would hardly 
be credited in the United States, where foreign intrigue never 
attempts the direct subversion of the government, and which 
I therefore pass over in silence. 

Two days after this event, the body of Senor Morales was 
buried, with striking and unaffected demonstrations of sorrow 



PLAN OF CONFEDERATION. 559 

The corpse was followed to the grave by all the officers of 
the garrison, and minute guns were fired from the plaza 
during the burial. Scarcely a week elapsed, before the 
broken-hearted sister, prostrated by the catastrophe of her 
brother's death, was laid beside him in the Church of La 
Merced. The negro officer, Eodriguez, for his decision and 
bravery, was promoted to the rank of Lieutenant Colonel. 

During the month of November, the Commissioners of 
Honduras, San Salvador, and ISTicaragua had been in session, 
in the city of Leon, and had agreed upon the basis of a 
union of these States, the terms of which were promulgated 
about this period, for the first time. The arrangement looked 
to an immediate or speedy consolidation, for the purpose of 
conducting the foreign relations of the country, and to an 
early union on the plan of a federation, leaving it optional 
with the States of Gruatemala and Costa Rica to accede to the 
compact. This policy was opposed by the old aristocratic or 
monarchical faction, or rather the remnants of it ; and they, 
it is believed, were at the bottom of the disturbances to 
which I have referred. In Honduras, in the month follow- 
ing, they attempted a revolution, with the view of preventing 
the contemplated union ; and although they there met with 
better success at the outset than in Nicaragua, they signally 
failed in the end, notwithstanding that they had the counte- 
nance and support of the British officials in the country; 
who, at this time, both in Costa Eica and in Guatemala, by 
publications and otherwise, not only denounced the whole 
plan of federation, and what they called the "American 
Policy," but threatened to break it down, whenever its 
organization should be attempted. 



CHAPTER XXI. 

THE "PASEO AL MAk" — PREPARATIONS FOR THE ANNUAL VISIT TO THE SEA — 

THE MIGRATION IMPROMPTU DWELLINGS INDIAN POTTERS THE SALINES — 

THE ENCAMPMENT — FIRST IMPRESSIONS — CONTRABANDA — OLD FRIENDS — THE 
CAMP BY MOONLIGHT — PRACTICAL JOKES — A BRIEF ALARM — DANCE ON THE 
SHORE — UN JUEGO — LODGINGS, CHEAP AND ROMANTIC — AN OCEAN LULLABY 

— MORNING SEA BATHING ROUTINE OF THE PASEO — DIVERTISEMENTS — 

RETURN TO LEON. 

Amongst tlie amusements of tlie people of Nicaragua, or 
ratker of those residing on the Plain of Leon, I ought per- 
haps to number " El Paseo al Mar," or annual visit to the 
Pacific. The fashionables of our cities flock, during "the 
season," to Saratoga or Newport, but those of Leon go to the 
sea. And although the Paseo is a different thing from a 
season at the Springs, yet it requires an equal amount of 
preparation, and is talked about, both before and after, in 
very much the same strain and quite as abundantly. It is 
the period for flirtations, and general and special love-mak- 
ing, — in short, it is the festival of St. Cupid, whose devotees, 
the world over, seem more earnest and constant than those of 
any canonized saint in the calendar. 

I had heard various allusions to the Paseo al Mar, during 
the rainy season, but they were not the most intelligible. 
When the dry season set in, however, they became more fre- 
quent and distinct, and by the middle of January the subject 
of the Paseo became the absorbing topic of conversation. 
The half naked muchachos in the streets seemed inspirited 

36 



562 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 

with the knowledge of its near approach; and even my 
venerable cook began a series of diplomatic advances to as- 
certain whether it was my intention " to do in Eome as the 
Eomans do," and join in the general migration. The in- 
quiry was made directly by a number of the Senoras, and 
the wife of one of my of&cial friends, whose position enabled 
her to trench a little on conventional restrictions, plumply 
invited me to join her party. And yet the Paseo was not to 
oome off until the moon of March, two months in the future. 

At that time the dry season begins really to be felt ; the 
crops are gathered, the rank vegetation is suspended, the 
dews are comparatively light, the sky is serene and cloudless, 
storms are unknown, and the moon rules at night with un- 
wonted brightness and beauty. The dust in the cities be- 
comes' annoying, and trade languishes. It is just the season 
for mental relaxation and physical enjoyment. At that time 
too, the salt marshes near the sea become dry, and the mos- 
quitos defunct. In short, the conditions for a pleasant Paseo 
are then perfected. 

The preliminary arrangements are made during the week 
preceding the first quarter of the new moon. At that time 
a general movement of carts and servants takes place in the 
direction of the sea, and the Grovernment despatches an offi- 
cer and a guard to superintend the pitching of the annual 
camp upon the beach, or rather upon the forest-covered 
sand-ridge which fringes the shore. Each family, instead of 
securing rooms at the " Ocean House" or a cottage on the 
" Drive," builds a temporary cane hut, lightly thatched with 
palm-leaves, and floored with petates or mats. The whole 
is wickered together with vines, or woven together basket- 
wise, and partitioned in the same way, or by means of color- 
ed curtains of cotton cloth. This constitutes the penetralia, 
and is sacred to the "bello sexo" and the babies. The more 
luxurious ladies bring down their neatly-curtained beds, 
and make no mean show of elegance in the interior arrange- 



PASEO AL MAR. 568 

ment of tlieir impromptu dwellings. Outside, and some- 
thing after tlie fashion of tlieir permanent residences, is a 
kind of broad and open shed, which bears a very distant re- 
lation to the corridor. Here hammocks iare swung, here 
the families dine, the ladies receive visitors, and the men 
sleep. It is the grand sala, the comedor, and the dormitorio 
para los hombres. 

The establishments here described pertain only to the 
wealthier visitors, the representatives of the upper classes. 
There is every intermediate variety, down to those of the 
mozo and his wife, who spread their blankets at the foot of 
a tree, and weave a little bower of branches above them, — 
an affair of ten or a dozen minutes. And there are yet 
others who disdain even this exertion, and nestle in the 
loose, dry sand, — a cheap practice which I should straightway 
recommend, were it not for anticipating my story. 

" The ides of March," it was unanimously voted by impa- 
tient Senoritas, were a long time in coming, and great were 
the rejoicings on the eventful evening when the crescent 
moon — auspicious omen! — revealed its delicate horn when 
the sun went down in the west. A day or two after, the 
Paseo commenced in earnest ; horses, mules, and carts, were 
all put in requisition, and when I took my evening ride, I 
observed that our favorite balconies were nearly every one 
empty. There were a few which yet retained their fair occu- 
pants, but the silvery, half-apologetical "manana," — "to- 
morrow," which answered our salutations, explained that 
these too would soon flit after their companions. 

Business intervened to keep me in the city, which, de- 
serted by full half of its population, now looked dull and 
(isolate, and it was not until the fourth day, that I could 
arrange to take my share in the " Paseo." It was five 
leagues to the sea, and we waited until nearly sunset before 
starting. Through Subtiaba, — also half deserted, for the 
Paseo is the perpetuation of a semi-religious, Indian custom, — 



564 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 

along tlie pleasant stream wHcli skirts it, winding now be- 
tween higli hedge-rows, among tlie tall forest-trees, or spurring 
across the open ^^jicorals,^^ yellow from the drought, here 
passing a creaking cart, enveloped in a cloud of dust, filled 
with women and children, or with fruits and vegetables, and 
anon overtaking a party of caballeros, each with a gaily- 
dressed girl mounted on the saddle before him, with a reboso 
thrown loosely over her head and a lighted puro in her 
mouth, which, as we gallop past she removes for an instant, 
to cheer "al mar! al mar!" to the seal to the sea! — thus 
on, on, until rising a swell of open land, we look over a 
league of flat country, shrouded in forest, out upon the ex- 
panse of the Pacific ! The sun has gone down, the evening 
star trembles on the verge of the horizon, and the young 
moon struggles with the twilight, high and clear in the em- 
pyrean. A mile farther, and we reach a hollow, at the bot- 
tom of which is a stream, and from it comes a confused sound 
of many voices, wild laughter, and the echo of obstreperous 
songs. We involuntarily stop our horses, and look down 
upon a crowd of men and animals, drinking at the stream 
or struggling to approach it, — the whole swaying and incon- 
gruous mass but half revealed by the ruddy light of large 
fires, quivering on rock and tree, and on the shifting groups, 
in strong contrast with the broad bars of moonlight which 
fall, calm and clear, through the openings of the trees. 
This is the grand watering place for the encampment, where 
all the horses are twice a day brought to drink, and these 
are the mozos, upon whom the task of attending to them 
devolves. The fires proceed from rude kilns in which the 
Indian potter is baking his wares, and standing beside a 
heap of newly-made vessels is his wife, who cries — # 

" Cantaras, cantaras nuevas, 
Queira a comprar ?" 

We passed through the groups of men and animals with 



PASEO AL MAR. 565 

difficulty, and after a short ride beneatli tlie shadows of a 
dense forest, came upon what are called the Salines, — broad 
open spaces, in the rainy season covered with water, but now 
dry, and hard, and white with an incrustation of salt. In 
the moonlight they resembled fields of snow, across which 
wound the black and well-beaten road. Between the Salines 
and the sea there is a broad, dry swell or elevation of sand, 
which seems to have been formed by the waves of the ocean, 
and which is covered with trees. Amongst these we could 
distinguish the lights of many fires ; and as we approached, 
we heard bursts of merry laughter, and in the pauses be- 
tween them, the tinkling of musical instruments. We spurred 
forward, and were soon in the midst of a scene as novel 
as it was inspiriting. There were broad avenues of huts, 
festooned with hammocks in front, in which the Senoritas 
were reclining, in lively conversation with their red-sashed 
beaus, who idly thrummed their guitars, while the elders of 
both sexes, seated in the background, puffed their puros and 
cigaritos, pictures of indolence an.d physical ease. Flanking 
the huts were covered carts, within and beneath which chil- 
dren were playing in an ecstacy of glee. Behind, the cattle 
were tethered to the trees ; and here too were the fires for 
culinary purposes, around which the cocineras^ chattering 
like parrots, were preparing the evening cup of chocolate. 
Now we passed an open, brilliantly lighted hut, in which 
dulces, wines, and cigars were displayed on shelyes twined 
round with evergreens. In front a dextrous tumbler ex- 
hibited his feats for the entertainment of the claret-sipping 
customers of the establishment, from whom he extracted an 
occasional medio for his pains. Near by, an Indian girl, 
seated on a mat, exposed a basket of fruits for sale, while 
another paraded a little stock of gaudy ribbons, to tempt 
the fancy of some young coquette. In the centre of the 
encampment, under the shadow of a species of banyan tree, 
which spread out its foliage like the roof of a dwelling, and 



566 NICAEAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 

sent down Half a hundred distinct trunks to tlie earth, — ^here 
was the station of the guard of police, a detachment of 
soldiers from the garrison of Leon, whose duty it was, not 
only to preserve order, but to keep a sharp lookout for con- 
traband aguardiente, the sale of which, except in small 
quantities, at the government estanca, is strictly prohibited. 
The prohibition did not extend to the fermented chicha, or 
palm-juice, which bacchanahan looking Indians, exhibiting in 
their own persons the best evidences of its potency, carried 
round in open calabashes, at a quartillo the jicara, equal to 
about a pint. 

The ofl&cer of the guard recognized our party, and before 
I was aware of the movement, the soldiers had fallen into 
line and presented arms. This was the signal for a general 
huddle of the idlers. I entered an instant and half-indig- 
nant protest against all demonstrations of the kind, and told 
the commandant that I had left the American Minister at 
my house in Leon, and had come down to the sea as a simple 
jpaisano, or citizen of the country. The explanation was in 
good time ; it entertained the quidnuncs, and saved me from 
much annoyance afterwards. Before we had finished our 
parley, however, we were made prisoners by my old friend 
Dr. Juarros, and taken in triumph to his establishment at 
the court end of the camp. Here we found most of our fair- 
friends of the balconies, sipping chocolate, in a hurricane of 
spirits. The " gayeties" of the Paseo were clearly at their 
height, and the infection was so strong that we at once 
caught the prevailing feeling, and fell into the popular cur- 
rent. We were speedily informed as to what was " up" for 
the evening in the fashionable circles. A dance by moon- 
light on the beach, with other divertisements when that 
wearied, had already been agreed upon. These were to 
commence at nine o'clock ; it was now only eight, and we 
devoted the intervening hour to a ramble through the en- 
campments, followed by a train of idlers, who seemed greatly 



PASEO AL MAR. 567 

to relish our interest in its novelties. We found that Chi- 
nandega, Chichigalpa, El Yiejo, and Pueblo Nuevo, as also 
Telica and the other small towns on the plain of Leon, were 
all represented here. The Padres too were in force, and 
seemed quite as jolly as the secular revellers ; in fact, a 
thorough understanding and tacit admission of equality had 
put all classes in the best of humors, and they mingled freely, 
without jostling, conceding to each other their pecuHar 
entertainments, and banishing envy and rivalry from the 
encampment. 

There seemed to be a good deal of practical fan going on, 
of which we witnessed a number of examples before we had 
half finished our circuit. 

We returned to the court end of the encampment in time 
to accompany the Senoras along a wide path cleared through 
the bushes which grow, hedge-hke, at the edge of the forest, 
out uj)on the broad and beautiful beach. The sand was 
loose and fine and white near the forest, but towards the 
water it was hard and smooth. Grroups of revellers were 
scattered along the shore, here a set of dancers, and yonder 
a crowd of boys engaged in noisy sport, or clustering like 
bees around some vender of fruits, or of "frescos." There 
were no doorkeepers or ushers to our moonlit ball-room, 
and the dancers commenced their movements to the measured 
beat of the waves of the great ocean, which rolled in 
grandly at our feet. The dense background of forest, the 
long line of level shore, the clear moonlight, the gayly-dressed 
dancers and animated groups, the music, the merriment, and 
the heaving sea, — I could hardly convince myself of the 
reality of a scene so unlike anything which we had yet 
witnessed. In the intervals of the dance, cigars and 
cigaritas were lighted, and at eleven o'clock, when this 
amusement wearied, a proposition for "un juego," or play, 
was carried by acclamation. A large circle was drawn in 
the sand, around which the participants were seated, one of 



568 NICAHAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 

each sex alternately. Our host, who, although his head was 
white, nevertheless retained the spirit and the vivacity of 
youth, responded to the call for "a boy" to take the centre 
of the circle and set the "juego" in motion, and was received 
with uproarious merriment. The play seemed to be very 
much after the order of those with which children amuse 
themselves in the United States, and was prefaced by a gen- 
eral collection of handkerchiefs from the entire party, which 
were bound up in a bundle, and deposited in the centre of 
the ring. The manager then took one at random, and pro- 
ceeded to question its owner as to the state of his or her 
affections, and, from his knowledge of the parties, often put- 
ting home questions, which were received with shouts of 
laughter. Certain standard pains and penalties were attached 
to failures or hesitations in answering, and when the interro- 
gatives were finished, the respondent was assigned a certain 
place in the circle, the owner of the second handkerchief 
taking the next, and. so on. Some point was attached to 
these accidental conjunctions, which I was not shrewd enough 
to discover, but which was a source of infinite amusement to 
the spectators, and sometimes of evident annoyance to the 
"juegadoras." I was pressed into a place in the circle, 
where my verdancy created most outrageous merriment, in 
which I joined from sheer force of sympathy ; for, like the 
subjects of jokes in general, I could not for the life of me 
see " the point of it." I was fortunate, however, in having 
for my "companera," the Dona I,, one of the most beautiful 
ladies of Leon, blessed with the smallest and whitest possible 
feet in the world' — for, as the ladies had removed their slip- 
pers after the dance, was it not impossible to keep their feet 
concealed ? Her husband had fallen to the lot of a great 
coquette, to whom the oracle in the centre of the ring de- 
clared he legitimately belonged. 

By midnight the entertainments began to flag in spirit, and 
the various groups on the shore to move off in the direction 



PASEO AL MAR. 569 

of the encampment. Our party followed, for as it is a por- 
tion of the religion of the Paseo to take a sea-bath before 
sunrise, the keeping of early hours becomes a necessity. As 
we passed along the shore, I observed that a number of the 
visitors had taken up their lodgings in the sand, and they 
seemed to be so comfortable that I quite envied them their 
novel repose. Upon reaching what our arch hostess called 
her " glorieta," or bower, we found that a narrow sleeping 
place had been prepared for us within the wicker cage, which, 
although neat and snug enough, seemed close and uncom- 
fortable, as compared with the open sands. And we quite 
shocked our friends by announcing, after a brief conference, 
that we proposed to sleep on the shore — that we had, in fact, 
come down with the specific, romantic design of passing a 
night within reach of the spray of the great ocean. So 
throwing our blankets over our shoulders, we bade the 
Senoras good night, and started for the beach again. The 
encampment was now comparatively still; and the ham- 
mocks in front of the various impromptu dwellings were all 
filled with men, each one occupied with his puro, which 
brightened with every puff, like the lamp of the fire-fly ; for 
the poppy-crowned god of the ancients, in Central America, 
smokes a cigar. A single full-sized puro does the business 
for most men, and none but those af&icted with a troubled 
conscience or the colic, can keep awake beyond the third. 
The domestics of the various establishments, and the mozos 
who had no quarters of their own, were reclining wherever 
it was most convenient, some on mats or blankets, and others 
on the bare earth, but all, like their betters, pufSng silently 
at their cigars. There were a few lingering groups ; here, 
in a secluded corner, a party yet absorbed in a game of 
monte, and yonder, in the shadow, a pair of lovers, tete-d-tete^ 
conversing in whispers lest they should arouse the pateirnal 
dragons. Over all, the soldiers of the patrol kept vigilant 



570 NICARAGUA — ^UTARRATIVE. 

watcli, slowly pacing, their muskets glancing in the moon- 
light, from one end of the camp to the other. 

The shore was entirely deserted, except by the scattered 
slumberers. We selected a place at a distance from them all 
— ^for there was room enough — ^and each one scooping a little 
hollow in the sand, rolled himself in his blanket and depos- 
ited himself for the night. The moon was now low in the 
west, and its light streamed in a glimmering column across 
the sea, and upon the waves which, crested with silver, broke 
in a shower of pearly spray within twenty yards of the spot 
where we were reclining. The cool breeze came in freshly 
from the water, its low murmur mingling with the briny hiss 
of the spent waves chafing on the sand, and the hoarse, deep 
bass of the heavy surf beating impotently on the distant cape. 
And thus we slept; the naked earth below, the arching 
heavens above us, and with the great ocean, rolling its un- 
broken waves over half the globe, to chant our lullaby ! 

We were up with the earliest dawn, just as the morning 
began to tint the clouds in the east, and while the retreating 
squadrons of night hung heavily in the west. The tide was 
at its ebb, and already little parties were strolhng along the 
beach to catch stray crabs, or fill their pockets with the deli- 
cate shells left by the falling sea. We, too, rambled along 
the shore, to a high projecting ledge of rocks, against which 
the ocean dashed angrily with an incessant roar. They were 
covered with the cones of some species of shell fish, which 
half a dozen Indian boys, armed with hammers, were detach- 
ing, to be cooked for their breakfast. There were also 
hundreds of lively crabs, which scrambled into the crevices, 
as we leaped from one huge fragment of rock to the other. 
Beyond this point, and partially shut in by it, was a little 
bay, of which we at once took possession, and were soon 
struggling with the combing waves that rolled in majestically 
on a hard but even floor of white sand, which preserved the 



PASEO AL MAR. 571 

"water as pure as in tlie open sea. Nor was there the treach- 
erous under-tow, dreaded even by the expertest swimmer, 
and which detracts so much from the pleasure of the ocean 
bath. But we had not been long in possession of the charm- 
ing little bay, which we supposed was ours by right of 
discovery, when we observed small parties of women emerg- 
ing from the woods, and gathering on the shore. W. 
had the vanity to believe that they were attracted by the 
novelty of white skins ; but then, if they had simply come 
to see, why should they so deliberately unrobe themselves ? 
Why, in fact, should they paddle out into the little bay ? 
"We modestly retreated into deeper water as they approached ; 
where we were soon completely blockaded, and began to 
suspect that perhaps we had got into the "wrong pew," and 
that this nook of water, from its greater safety, had been 
assigned as a bathing place for the women ! — a suspicion 
which was confirmed by the rapidly increasing numbers 
which now thronged between us and the shore, and by 
observing that the male bathers were concentrated at a point 
some distance to the right. But our embarrassment was 
quite superfluous ; everybody seemed to act on the principle 
" Honi soit, qui mal y pense ;" and when, after remaining in 
the water for half an hour longer than we would have chosen, 
we ran the blockade, the movement caused never so much 
as a flutter amongst the Naiads ! 

The rules of the Paseo prescribed an hour's bathing in the 
morning before breakfast, quite as rigidly as do those of 
Saratoga a bottle of Congress water at the same hour ; and 
when we returned to the camp with our hostess and the set 
of which she was the patroness, it was with an appetite which 
would make a dyspeptic die of envy. Coffee, a hot tortilla, 
and a grilled perdiz or partridge, constituted the matutinal 
meal; after which, and while the sands were yet in the 
shadow of the forest, a dashing ride on the beach was also 
prescribed by the immemorial rules of the Paseo. The gaily- 



572 NICARAGUA— NARRATIVE. 

caparisoned horses were brought up by the not less gaily- 
caparisoned gallants, and the Senoras lifted to their seats 
in front. Some of them preferred to ride alone ; and when 
all was ready, away they dashed, now coursing along the 
edge of the forest, and anon skirting the water so closely 
that the spray, rising beneath the strokes of the rapid hoofs, 
fell in glittering showers on horse and rider. 

At ten o'clock, the force of the sun begins to be felt ; a 
cup of tiste or of chocolate is now in order, followed by a 
game at cards beneath the arbor-like corridors ; and then, 
when the sun has gained the meridian, a siesta opportunely 
comes in, with " frescos " and cigars ad lihitum^ to fill up the 
hours until dinner, a meal which, in common with break- 
fast and supper, is chiefly made up of fish, freshly caught, 
and game,' filled out with an endless variety of fruits akd 
dulces. Besides visiting, and other devices to kill time, 
there is always in the afternoon some kind of divertisement, 
generally impromptu, to occupy the attention until the hour 
of the evening bath. The afternoon of our visit, the diver- 
tisement consisted in a grand search by the police for contra- 
band aguardiente, supposed to be concealed in a marsh, just 
back of the encampment, which resulted in their getting 
mired and completely bedaubed with mud, before they dis- 
covered that they had been adroitly duped by a wag, who 
the evening preceding had set the whole encampment in an 
uproar by raising a false alarm of " los facciosos /" But this 
time his luck failed him ; he was caught by the indignant 
soldiers, and, amidst the roars of the entire encampment, was 
treated to a most effective mud bath, from which he emerged 
dripping with mire. He was nest taken to the sea, and un- 
mercifully ducked, then brought back, tumbled in the marsh 
again, and, finally left to extricate himself as he best could. 
He took his punishment like a philosopher, and contrived to 
get his captors quite as completely in the mud as he was in 
the mire. This fellow's love for practical jokes, and the ex- 



PASEO AL MAR. 573 

travagant merriment wliicli this rude sport occasioned, illus- 
trate wliat I before said of the keen appreciation of the 
ridiculous which pervades all classes in CeAtral America, 
and which is perhaps due not less to a primitive condition 
of society, than to that innate comic element which is so 
inexplicalply associated with the gravity of the Spanish 
character. 

It is often the case that the higher officers of state come 
down to the Paseo. The presence of Gen. Munoz seemed 
to be specially desired, as much, I thought, on account ol 
the military band which accompanies him on such occasions, 
as of his own social qualities. But the affairs of the govern- 
ment were now in an interesting, not to say critical state, in 
consequence of the threatened revolution in Honduras, and 
ther ladies had to content themselves with the hackneyed, 
and not over-exhilarating music of the guitar and violin. 
But they were not the people to permit what the transcen- 
dentalists call the "unattainable" to destroy an appreciation 
and full enjoyment of the " present and actual." On the 
contrary, they seemed only to regret that the idle, careless 
life which they now led must terminate with the decline of 
the moon ; a regret, however, wholesomely tempered by the 
prospect of its renewal during the full moon of April, when 
it is customary to return again, for a few days, to "wind up 
the season." 

My official duties did not permit of more than one day's 
absence from the seat of Government, and on the second 
evening, under most solemn promises of a speedy return and 
protracted stay, just as the general movement to the beach 
for the evening dance was commencing, we bade our host 
good-by, and struck into the road for Leon. A rapid ride 
of two hours over the open Salines, through forest and 
jicoral, and our horses clattered over the pavements of Leon 
to our own silent dwelling. Circumstances prevented my 
return to the sea; but when the Senoras came back, a week 



574 NICAEAGUA — NAREATIVE. 

later, I had full accounts of aU that had transpired in the 
way of match-making or adventure. 

It not unfrequently happens that eight or ten thousand 
persons are collected on the sea-shore, at the height of the 
Paseo ; but of late years the attendance has not been so full 
as formerly. " You should have seen it thirty years ago," 
said an ancient lady, with a long-drawn sigh, " when Leon 
was a rich and populous city ; it is nothing now !" 




THE TOUOAN. 



CHAPTBE XXII. 

PROPOSED VISIT TO SAN SALVADOR AND HONDURAS — ^DEPARTURE FROM LEON 

CHINANDEGA — LADRONES — THE GOITRE — GIGANTIO FOREST TREES — PORT 

OF TEMPISQTJE — THE ESTERO REAL AND ITS SCENERY — A NOVEL CUSTOM 
HOUSE AND ITS COMMANDANTE — NIGHT ON THE ESTERO — BAT OF FONSECA 
— VOLCANO OF COSEGUINA — THE ISLAND OF TIGRE — PORT OF AMAPALA — 
VIEW FROM THE ISLAND — ENTRANCE TO THE BAT — SACATE GRANDE — EX- 
CITING NEWS FROM HONDURAS — ^ENGLISH FORTIFICATIONS — EXTENT, RE» 
SOURCES, AND IMPORTANCE OF THE BAT — DEPARTURE FOR THE SEAT OF 
WAR. 

I HAD now been nearly a year in Nicaragua, and althougli 
repeatedly urged to do so, had not yet found an opportunity 
of visiting tlie neighboring States. At this time, however, 
the condition of public affairs was such as to permit of a 
brief absence from the capital, and I lost no time in prepar- 
ing for a journey to Honduras and San Salvador, — States 
identified with Nicaragua in their general policy, and strug- 
gling, in concert with her, to revive the national spirit, and 
build up again the prostrate fabric of the Eepublic. This 
effort, as I have already said, was opposed by the old serviles 
in the city of Guatemala, and their coadjutors in the other 
States, who had succeeded in exciting disturbances in Hon- 
duras, which threatened the complete overthrow of its Grov- 
ernment. Gren. Guardiola, an able but impetuous officer, the 
head of the army of that State, had been so far deceived 
and misled by them, as to put himself in arms against the 
constitut-ed authorities. He had, in fact, obtained possession 
of the capital, and at the head of a large force was now 



576 NICARAGUA — ^NARRATIVE, 

marcliing against Senor Lindo, the President, wlio liad taken 
up his position and fortified himself at the town of JSTacaome, 
near the Bay of Fonseca. Here he had solicited the inter- 
vention of Nicaragua and San Salvador, which States were 
bound by treaty to sustain Honduras and each other when- 
ever they should be threatened with violence from within or 
from abroad. San Salvador had accordingly sent a consider- 
able force to the support of Lindo, under the command of 
Gen. Cabanas, a distinguished officer of the old Kepublic, 
and Nicaragua was making preparations to afford further aid 
in case of necessity. 

Under these circumstances, and with the hope of being 
able to avert a collision, which could only result in evil, I 
started on my journey. It was at the beginning of the 
" Semana Santa," or Holy Week, and by the dim, gray light 
of the morning, as we rode through the silent city, we could 
make out the arches and evergreen arbors with which the 
streets were spanned and decorated, preparatory to this prin- 
cipal festival of the calendar. Early morning on the plain 
of Leon, when the purple volcanoes are relieved against the 
sun's coronal of gold, and their ragged summits seem crusted 
over with precious stones, while the broad plain rests in 
deep shadow, or catches here and there a faint reflection 
from the clouds,^ — early morning on the plain of Leon, al- 
ways beautiful, was never more gorgeous than now. Broad 
daylight overtook us at the Quebrada of Quesalguaque ; and 
although the dust was deep, for it was now past the middle 
of the dry season, yet we rode into Chinandega, twenty-five 
miles, in time for breakfast. 

Here I found my old friend Dr. Brown, who had been the 
first to welcome me at San Juan, and who had just arrived 
from Panama in the " Gold Hunter," the first American 
steamer which had ever entered the ancient harbor of Eeal- 
ejo. Here we also found a considerable party of Americans 
from California, homeward bound, "with pockets full of 



LADRONES — SAMBOS. 677 

rocks," who, taken with the luxuriant climate and country, 
and oriental habits of the people, had rented a house, pur- 
chased horses, and organized an establishment, half harem 
and half caravansary, where feasting and jollity, Yenus and 
Bacchus, and Mercury and Momus, and half of the rare old 
rolhcking gods, banished from refined circles, not only found 
sanctuary, but held undisputed sway. They were popular 
amongst the natives, who thought them "hombres muy vivos," 
and altogether prime fellows, for they never haggled about 
prices, but submitted to extortion with a grace worthy of 
Caballeros with a mint at their command. 

The streets near the plaza were blockaded with carts and 
piles of stones, for the troop of captured ladrones had been 
put to the useful employment of paving the principal 
thoroughfares. They were all chained, but in a manner not 
interfering with their ability to labor, although effectually 
precluding escape. Yet they were guarded by soldiers, man 
for man, who lounged lazily in the doorways of the houses 
on the shaded side of the streets. I observed that most of 
the criminals were Sambos, mixed Negro and Indian, who 
seem to combine the vices of both races, with few if any of 
their good qualities. Yet physically they were both larger 
and better proportioned than the parent stocks.^ Their 
exists between them and the Ladinos, or mixed whites and 
Indians, a deeply seated hostility, greater than between any 
of the other castes of the country. 

1 Dr. Von Tschudi makes a similar observation concerning this caste in 
Peru. He says : " they are the most miserable class of half-castes ; with 
them every vice seems to have attained its utmost development ; and it 
may confidently be said that not one in a thousand of them is a useful 
member of society, or a good subject of the State. Four-fifths of the 
criminals in the city jail of Lima are Sambos. Their figures are athletic, 
and their color black, sometimes tinged with ohve-brown. Their noses 
are not as flat as those of the negroes, but their lips are quite as promi 
nent" — Travels in Peru, p. 84. 

87 



578 NICARAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 

In Chinandega, as in fact every other town of tlie State, 1 
observed numerous instances of the goitre. It is chiefly, if 
not wholly, confined to the women. This circumstance par- 
ticularly attracted my attention, as it is popularly supposed 
that this is a disease peculiar to elevated or mountainous re- 
gions. The inhabited portions of Nicaragua, excepting the 
sparsely populated districts of Segovia and Chontales, are 
elevated not exceeding from one to five hundred feet above 
the sea. Chinandega is only seventy feet, and Leon, Gra- 
nada, and Eivas, not more than a hundred and fifty feet, 
above tide water; yet in all these towns the goitre is com- 
mon. I also saw several cases of elephantiasis^ but they are 
rare. 

We spent our first night at our old quarters in El Yiejo, 
and started next morning before daylight for what is called 
"El Puerto de Tempisque," on the Estero Eeal, where we 
had engaged a bongo to take us to the Island of Tigre, in 
the Bay of Fonseca. The distance to Tempisque is about 
seven leagues ; the first three leading through an open, level, 
and very well cultivated country. That passed, we came to 
a gigantic forest, including many cedro, cebia," and mahogany 
trees, amongst which the road wound with labyrinthine in- 
tricacy. This forest is partially under the lee of the vol- 
cano of Yiejo, where showers fall for nearly the whole of the 
year, and hence the cause of its luxuriance. Here we over- 
took our patron and his men, marching Indian file, each with 
a little bag of netting, containing some cheese, plantains, and 

'■ The cebia, or wild cotton tree, is one of the most imposing of the 
forest's monarchs. It grows rapidly, and to a great size. I have seen a 
single trunk seventy feet long, forty-four feet in circumference at one end, 
and thirty-seven at the other. The wood is hghter and less durable than 
pine, but it is worked easily. This tree is generally used for bongos 
or piraguas. It produces large pods, filled with a downy substance like 
floss silk, which is used in a variety of ways, for stuffing cushions, piUows, 
etc. It may, no doubt, be put to other economical purposes. 



THE COYOL PALM. 579 

tortillas for the voyage, thrown over one shoulder, a blanket 
over the other, and carrying the inseparable machete resting 
in the hollow of the left arm. 

Within a mile or two of Tempisque, the ground began to 
rise, and we found ourselves on a high, broad ridge of lava, 
which had ages ago descended from the great volcano above 
mentioned. It was partially covered with a dry and arid 
soil, supporting a few coyol palms, some groups of the Agave 
Americana, and a great variety of cacti, which contrive to 
flourish where no other plants can grow. The coyol palm 
is the raggedest of the whole family of palms, yet it is one 
of the most useful. Its flower is the largest and most mag- 
nificent to be found beneath the tropics ; it forms a cluster a 
yard in length and of equal circumference, of the color of 
frosted gold, flanked and relieved by a deep brown shell or 
husk, within which it is concealed until it is matured, when 
it bursts from its prison and shames the day with its glories. 
The fruit is small, not larger than a walnut, but it is produced 
in clusters of many hundreds each. The kernels resemble re- 
fined wax, and burn almost as readily ; when pressed, they 
yield a fine, clear oil, equal to the best sperm, and well adapted 
for domestic uses. The shell of the nut is hard, black, and 
susceptible of the highest polish, and is laboriously carved by 
the natives into rings and other articles of ornament, which, 
when set in gold, are very unique and beautiful, and highly 
valued by strangers. ■ But the uses of this palm do not end 
here. The heart of the tree is soft, and may be cooked and 
eaten. And if a hollow or cavity is cut in the trunk, near 
its top, it soon fills with juice, of a slightly pungent flavor, 
called cMche by the Indians, which is a delicious and health- 
fol, and when allowed to ferment, an intoxicating beverage. 

From the summit of the lava ridge, we obtained a view of 
the level alluvions bordering the Bay of Fonseca. They 
are covered with an unbroken forest, and the weary eye 



580 NICARAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 

traverses a motionless ocean of verdure, tree-tops on tree- 
tops, in apparently unending succession. 

We paused for a moment to contemplate the scene ; but its 
vastness and silence were painful, and I felt relieved, when, 
after descending rapidly for ten minutes, we found ourselves 
amidst some evidences of life, at the "Puerto de Tempisque." 
These evidences consisted of a single shed, open upon three 
sides, and inhabited by an exceedingly ill -looking mestizo, 
an old crone, and an Indian girl, naked to the waist, whose 
occupation extended to bringing water, and grinding maize 
for tortillas. There was a fine spring at the base of the hill 
near by, and around it were some groups of sailors, engaged 
in cooking their breakfast. The ground back of the hut 
was elevated and dry, but immediately in front commenced 
the mangrove swamps. Here too, scooped in the mud, was 
a small shallow basin, and extending from it into the depths 
of the swamp, a narrow canal, four or five feet deep, and six 
or eight in breadth, communicating with the Estero Eeal. 
The tide was out, and the slimy bottom of both basin and 
canal, in which some ugly bongos were lying, was exposed 
and festering in the sun. Altogether it was a forbidding 
place, suggestive of agues and musquitos. Ben prepared 
breakfast, and meantime I amused myself with a tame coati 
or tropical raccoon, which I found beneath the shed, and 
which was as frolicksome and malicious as a kitten. Its prin- 
cipal delight seemed to be to bite the toes of the Indian girl, 
who evidently owed it no good will, and was only prevented 
from doing it a damage, by the old crone, whose pet it was. 

In the course of a couple of hours the tide began to rise ; 
our bongo was loaded, and by eleven o'clock, we were push- 
ing slowly through the narrow canal. After penetrating 
about three hundred yards, we entered an arm of the Estero. 
It was wider than the canal, and permitted the use of oars. 
All around us, so dense that not a ray of the sun could pene- 
trate, was a forest of mangroves. These trees cover the low 



MANGROVE SWAMPS. 581 

alluvions of tlie coast, which are overflowed by the tide, to 
the entire exclusion of all other vegetation. Their trunks 
commence at the height of eight or ten feet from the ground, 
and are supported by naked roots shooting downward and 
outward, like the legs of a tripod, hundreds in number, and 
those of one tree interlocking with those of another, so as to 
constitute an impenetrable thicket. Bare, slimy earth, a gray 
wilderness of roots surmounted by tall spire-like trunks, 
enveloped in a dense robe of opaque, green leaves, with no 
signs of life except croaking water-fowls and muddy crabs 
clinging to the roots of the trees, an atmosphere saturated 
with damps, and loaded with an odor of seething mire — these 
are the predominating features of a mangrove swamp ! I 
never before comprehended fully the aspects of nature, 
described to us by geologists, at the period of the coal for- 
mations, — " when rivers swollen with floods, and surcharged 
with detritus, heaved mournfully through the silence of 
primeval forests ; when endless fens existed, where the 
children of nature stood in ranks so close and impenetrable, 
that no bird could pierce the net- work of their branches, nor 
reptile move through the stockade of their trunks; when 
neither bird nor quadruped had yet started into being." 
Half an hour carried us through these Stygian solitudes ; and 
I breathed freer, when our boat pushed into the broad and 
magnificent Estero Eeal. This is an arm of the sea, project- 
ing from the lower extremity of the Bay of Fonseca, for a 
distance of sixty miles, behind the volcanic range of the 
Marabios, in the direction of Lake Managua. Where we 
entered, about thirty miles above its mouth, it was three 
hundred yards wide, and forty-eight feet, or eight fathoms, 
deep. The tide, which here rises about ten feet, had just 
turned, and we floated down rapidly, with the current. The 
banks were now full ; the water washed the feet of the man- 
groves, and they appeared as if rising from the sea. Being 
all of about equal height, and their foliage compact and 



582 



NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 



heavy, they shut in the Estero as with walls of emerald. 
The great volcano of El Yiejo, its dark brown summit traced 
boldly against the sky, came into view, sole monarch of the 
scene, now on one side, now on the other, as we followed the 
windings of the stream. Though the elements of the scenery 
were not many, yet the atmospheric effects, the long, dreamy 
vistas, and the dark, leafy arches, bending over some narrow 
arm of the Estero, left an impression upon my memory, in 
many respects as pleasing, and in all as ineffaceable, as the 
richer and more varied scenery around the great lakes of the 
interior. 

As we proceeded, and the tide fell, the steep, slimy banks, 
before concealed by the water, began to come in view. Seen 
from the middle of the Estero, they appeared of a rich umber 
color, contrasting strongly with the light blue of the water 
and the dense green of the trees. Life now began to animate 

the hitherto silent banks ; for thou- 
sands of water-fowls, before con- 
cealed in the leafy coverts, emerged 
to prey upon laggard snails, and to 
snap up presumptuous crabs, in- 
duced by the sunshine and the slime 
to linger on the shore, when they 
should have been "full fathoms 
five" beneath the water. Amongst 
these birds I then noticed some 
white and rose-colored herons, of 
exceeding beauty. Many of the 
latter are to be seen on the shores of Lake Nicaragua, in the 
vicinity of the Estero of Panaloya. 

At five o'clock, during the last hour of the ebb, we ob- 
served that the left bank of the Estero was higher than the 
other, and that the stream had now widened to upwards of 
half a mile, and had deepened to ten fathoms. It is here called 
" Playa Grande," and here the Government maintains a kind 




PLAYA GRANDE. 583 

of Custom House. When we came in sight of the establish- 
ment, our sailors took to their oars, and pulled towards the 
shore. If Tempisque was solitary, this was utterly desolate, 
The trees had been cleared away, for a few hundred feet, and 
in the midst of the open space stood two thatched sheds, 
elevated on posts, so that the floors were eight or ten feet 
above the mud, which was now partially dried, cracked, and 
covered with leprous spots of salt, left from the water of the 
overflows. To reach these structures, a tree had been cut so 
as to fall down the bank ; this was notched on the upper 
surface, and stakes had been driven at the sides, to prevent 
whoever should attempt to pass from slipping off into the 
mire. As we approached, the Nicaraguan flag was displayed, 
and the half-dozen soldiers comprising the guard were drawn 
up on the platform of the first hut. They presented arms, 
and went through other formalities, in obedience to the Com- 
mandante's emphatic orders, with a gravity which, consider- 
ing the place and the circumstances, was sufficiently comical. 
The Oommandante assisted me up the slimy log, and upon 
the platform of the Custom House, and gave me a seat in a 
hammock. Beneath the roof were several coffin-like shelves, 
shut in closely by curtains of cotton cloth, and reached by 
pegs driven in the posts of the edifice. These were dormi- 
tories or sleeping places, thus fortified against the musquitos. 
From the roof depended quantities of plantains^ maduras 
and verdes^ intermixed with festoons of tasajo or hung-beef. 
A large box filled with sand, at one end of the platform, was 
the fire-place, and around it were a couple of old women 
engaged in grinding corn for- tortillas. The Commandante 
smiled at my evident surprise, and asked if we had anything 
quite equal to this, in the way of customs establishments, in 
the United States ? It was a delightful place, he added, for 
meditation ; and a good one withal for young officers lavish 
of their pay, for here they couldn't spend a quartillo of it. 



684 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 

He liad held tlie place for three montlis ; but the Govern- 
ment was merciful, and never inflicted it upon one man for 
more than six, unless he had specially excited its displeasure. 
"In fact," continued the Commandante, "my devotion to the 
women is the cause of my banishment ; not that I was more 
open or immoderate in my amours than others, but because 
my superior was my rival !" And the Commandante made 
a facetious allusion to King David, and the bad example he 
had set to persons in authority. After this I might have 
left the Commandante with an impression that, whatever his 
past delinquencies, he was now a correct and proper young 
man. But just at that moment the curtains of one of the 
dormitories, which I had observed was occupied, were pushed 
apart, and a pair of satin slippers, and eke a pair of tiny feet 
were projected, followed in due course by the whole figure 
of a yellow girl, of more than ordinary pretensions to beauty, 
dressed in the height of Nicaraguan fashion. I compre- 
hended at once that she had fled to the dormitory, upon our 
approach, to make her toilette ; and when the Commandante 
introduced me to her as his sobrina^ niece, I only ejaculated, 
picaro ! rascal ! 

There was little to interest us at this desolate place, and 
'Uhough the Commandante urged us to stay to dinner, it was 
of more consequence to avail ourselves of the ebb tide than to 
eat ; so the six soldiers were paraded again, and we pushed 
off, and fell down the stream. As we rounded the first bend, 
we discovered several large boats, fastened to the shore, and 
waiting for the turn of the tide, to ascend the stream — for the 
current in the channel is so strong as to render it impossible 
to row against it. Consequently all navigation is governed 
by the rise and fall of the tide. The boats were filled with 
men, women, and children, flying from the seat of war in 
Honduras. They gave us a confused account of the advance 
of Gen. Guardiola to the coast, and said that there had 



THE ESTERO EEAL. 585 

Deen a battle, in wliicli tlie Government liad been beaten, 
with, a variety of other startling rumors, which turned out to 
be unfounded. 

At six o'clock it was slack water, and our men pulled for 
awhile at the oars. But the moment the flow commenced, 
they pushed in at a place where a little cleared spot, and 
some grass, showed that there was an elevation of the shore, 
and made fast to the roots of the overhanging mangroves. 
The banks were very abrupt, and covered with little soldier 
crabs, which paraded beneath the trees, and scrambled along 
their roots in thousands. Some of the men stripped, dragged 
themselves up the slimy banks, and with some wood, which 
they had brought, made a fire. For our own part, we essayed 
to fish ; but did not get even the poor encouragement of a 
nibble. Yet there were abundance of fishes, of a "peculiar 
kind, all around us. They were called "anteojos," or spy- 
glasses, by the sailors, from their goggle eyes, which, placed 
at the top of their heads, project above the water, like so 
many bubbles. They were from six inches to a foot long, 
with bodies of a muddy, yellow color, and went in shoals. 
When frightened, they would dart off, fairly leaping out of 
the water, making a noise like a discharge of buck-shot 
skipping past. They were impudent fishes, and gathered 
round the boat, with their staring eyes, while we were fishing, 
with an expression equivalent to " what gringos !" 

Our boat rose with the tide, and when it got within reach 
of the overhanging branches, we clambered ashore. We 
found that, here was an open, sandy space, a hundred feet 
square, covered with traces of fires, and with oyster and 
muscle shells, — evidences that it was a favorite stopping- 
place with the marineros. The sun had so far declined as to 
throw the wkole Estero in the shade, while the light still 
glowed on the opposite leafy shores. Altogether I was taken 
with the scene, and sipped my claret amidst the swarthy 
sailors with a genuine Eobinson Crusoeish feeling. As nigbt 



586 NICARAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 

came on, we pushed out into the Bstero, to avoid the musqui- 
tos, and cast our anchor (a big stone) in eleven fathoms 
water. 

The moon was past her first quarter, and the night was 
one of the loveliest. The silence was unbroken, except by 
the sound of the distant surf, brought to us by the sea breeze, 
and by an occasional, sullen plunge, as of an alligator. I 
have said that at this season, when the grass on the hills, 
with the ephemeral vegetation generally, is dried up, nearly 
the whole country is burnt over. The forests through which 
we had ridden that morning had been traversed by fiery 
columns. And now, as it grew dark, we could see them 
slowly advancing up the sides of the great volcano. At 
midnight they had reached its summit, and spreading laterally , 
presented the appearance of a flaming triangle, traced against 
the sky. So must the volcano have appeared in that remote 
period when the molten lava flowed down its steep sides, 
and devastated the plain at its base. 

During the night, when the tide turned, the patron lifted 
anchor, and floated down with the current. The proceeding 
did not disturb my slumbers, and when I woke next morn- 
ing, we were in the midst of the Bay of Fonseca, with a fair 
wind and all sails set, steering for the island of Tigre, which 
lifted its high, dim cone immediately in front. Upon our 
right, distant, but distinct beneath the morning light, was the 
low, ragged volcano of Ooseguina, whose terrible eruption in 
1838 I have already described. Other volcanoes and vol- 
canic peaks defined the outlines of this glorious Bay ; and 
the porpoises tumbling around us, and gulls poising in the 
air, or slowly flapping their crescent wings just above the 
deep green waves, all reminded us that we were near the- 
great ocean. We went through the water with great veloci- 
ty, and at eleven o'clock, when the breeze began to decline, 
we were within five or six miles of the island, which now 
presented a most magnificent appearance. It is about thirty 



■^m^m^ 




VOLCAJiJO OF CObEGUINA FKOM THE SEA. 




VIEW ON THE ESTEEO REAL. 



VOLCANO OP COSEGUINA. 



689 



miles in circumference, with sloping shores ; but immediately 
in the centre rises a regular, conical, volcanic monntain, be- 
tween four and five thousand feet high, clothed almost to the 
summit with a robe of trees. The top, however, is bare, and 
apparently covered with burnt earth, of a rich brown color. 





VOLCANO OP COSEGUINA, 



At noon, the wind having entirely died away, the men 
took to their oars, and we coasted for upwards of two hours 
along the base of the island, before reaching the Port of 
Amapala, which is situated upon its northern side. In places 
the shore was projecting and abrupt, piled high with rockr^ 
of lava, black and forbidding, upon which the sea-birds 
perched in hundreds ; elsewhere it receded, forming quiet 
little bays, with broad sandy beaches, and a dense back- 
ground of trees. We finally came to what seemed to be tho 
entrance of a naiTow valley, where the forest had been par- 
tially removed. Here we saw the thatched roofs of embow- 
ered huts, with cattle grazing around them ; and shortly after, 
turning round an abrupt lava promontory, where, upon a 



590 NICARAGUA — NAREATIVE. 

huge rock, the English had painted the flag of their conn try, 
in evidence of having taken possession of the island " in the 
name of Her Majesty, Victoria the First," — we darted into 
the little bay of Amapala. 

Two brigs, one Dutch, and the other American under the 
Chilian flag, were lying in the harbor, which was still and 
smooth as a mirror, bending with a crescent sweep into the 
land, with a high promontory on either side, but with a 
broad, clear beach in front, upon which were drawn up a 
great variety of bongos and canoes, including one or two 
trim little schooners. In a row, following the curve of the 
shore, were the huts of the inhabitants, built of canes, and 
thatched in the usual manner. Back of these the ground 
rose gently, forming a broad ridge, and over all towered the 
volcano of El Tigre. The most conspicuous features of the 
village were two immense warehouses, belonging to Don 
Carlos Dardano, an Italian merchant, whose enterprise had 
given importance to the place. Through his influence the 
State of Honduras, to which the island belongs, had consti- 
tuted it a Free Port, and made a concession of a certain 
quantity of land to every family which should establish itself 
there. As a consequence, within two or three years, from a 
temporary stopping-place for fishermen, Amapala had come 
to possess a considerable and constantly increasing population 
and trade, and now bade fair to rival La Union, the only 
port of San Salvador on the Bay of Fonseca. 

We landed immediately in front of the principal ware- 
house, which was now closed, by a decree of the authorities 
against Don Carlos, who had been weak enough to accept 
the office of " Superintendent of the Island of Tigre," during 
the temporary English occupation, and who had been obliged 
to retire into San Salvador, when it was evacuated. We 
found one of his agents^ however, a German, who, with his 
family, lived in the smaller building, eating and sleeping 
amongst great heaps of hides, and piles of indigo and tobacco 



ISLAND OF TIGRE. 591 

bales, bags of Chilian flour, and boxes of merchandise. He 
appeared to be a civil, well educated man, but wore his shirt 
outside of his pantaloons, and altogether conformed to the 
habits of the people around him. 

The Commandante of the port had withdrawn the principal 
part of the garrison, and joined the forces of the Government 
at ISTacaome. His lieutenant, nevertheless, " put himself at my 
disposition," in the most approved style; but I made no de- 
mand upon his courtesies, except for a guide to lead us to the 
top of the hill overlooking the port. A scramble of half an 
hour brought us to the spot. It was cleared, and com- 
manded a most extensive view of the Bay and its islands 
and distant shores. At our feet, upon one hand, were the 
town and harbor, with a broad sweep of tree-tops interven- 
ing ; and on the other, a wide savanna, forming a gigantic 
amphitheatre, in which were gardens of unbounded luxuri- 
ance. But these only constituted the foreground of the 
magnificent panorama which was spread out before us, and 
which combined all the elements of the grand and beautifol. 
A small portion of the view, the entrance to the Bay from 
the ocean, is presented in the frontispiece to the first volume 
of this work. Upon one side is the volcano of Coseguina, 
rough and angular, and upon the other that of Conchagua, 
distinguished for its regular proportions and sweeping out- 
lines. They are stupendous landmarks, planted by nature to 
direct the mariner to the great and secure haven at their 
base. Between them are the high islands of Conchaguita 
and Mianguera, breaking the swell of the sea, and dividing 
the entrance into three broad channels, through each of 
which the largest vessels may pass with ease. All of these 
entrances, as shown by the map, are commanded by the 
Tigre ; and it is this circumstance, joined to its capabilities 
for easy defence, which gives the island much of its impor- 
tance. 

The view to the north takes in the islands of Martin Pe- 



592 NICARAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 

rez, Posesion, and Punta de Sacate, belonging to San Salva 
dor; and Sacate Grande, belonging to Honduras. These 
had all been seized by the English at the time of their pi- 
ratical descent on the Tigre. Sacate Grande is the largest, 
and, in common with the rest, is of volcanic origin. It is 
rough and fantastic in outline, and almost entirely destitute 
of forest trees. The scoriaceous hills support only sacate^ or 
grass, which, during the dry season, becomes yellow, and 
gives the island the appearance of being covered with ripe 
and golden grain. 

But beyond the islands, which Mr, Stephens has observed 
surpass those of the Grecian Archipelago in beauty, is a belt 
of mountains on the main-land, relieved by the volcanoes of 
San Miguel and Guanacaure, and numerous other tall but 
nameless peaks. I spent an hour on the hill in mapping the 
Bay and taking the bearings of the principal landmarks, and 
at four o'clock returned to the port, hungry, but too much 
excited by the scene to feel wearied. Here I found an of&cer 
of the Government of Honduras, who had come down to pro- 
cure additional supplies for the army. He gave me the 
startling news that Gen. Guardiola, at the head of three 
thousand men, was only one day's march from Nacaome, 
and that a battle might now be hourly expected. I had 
intended to spend the night on the island; but this news, 
joined to the solicitations of the officer himself, determined 
me to proceed at once to San Lorenzo, on the main-land, and 
thence, next morning, to Nacaome. But our bongo was high 
and dry on the beach, and we had to wait for the rising of 
the tide in order to get her off. Meantime we dined, and 
strolled along the shore to a little headland, which the Eng- 
lish, during their stay, had attempted to fortify. They had 
constructed a kind of stockade, surrounded by a ditch, with 
embrasures for artillery, and loopholes for musketry. But 
in order to save labor, and yet to frighten, off assailants, a 
considerable part of the enclosure was built of a kind of 



BAY OF FONSECA. 593 

wicker-work of canes, plastered on tlie outside with mud. 
It was pierced for guns also, and looked as formidable as 
some of the pasteboard forts of the Chinese, from whom the 
suggestion seems to have been derived. The enclosure was 
now used as a pen for some sheep, which the agent of Don 
Carlos had recently introduced on the island. I hope this 
fact will afford some consolation to the builders ; it must be 
gratifying to them to know that their labors have not been 
wholly lost P 

The Bay of Fonseca probably constitutes the finest harbor 
on the Pacific. In its capacities it is said to surpass its only 
rival, the Bay of San Francisco, which it much resembles in 
form. Its entire length, within the land, is about eighty 
miles, by from thirty to thirty -five in breadth. The three 
States of Honduras, San Salvador, and Nicaragua, have 
ports upon it. The principal port is that of La Union, situ- 
ated on the subordinate bay of the same name, and belong- 
ing to San Salvador. The inner shores are low, but with a 
country back of them of unbounded fertility, penetrated by 
several considerable streams, some of which may be naviga- 
ted. The mountains which separate it from the sea are high, 
and effectually protect it from the winds and storms. It has, 
in nearly every part, an abundance of water for the largest 

' Had I not determined to exclude from my Narrative any extended 
allusion to political affairs witli which I was in any way connected, this 
would be a proper place to present a true statement of the circumstances 
of the seizure of this island and Bay by the officers of G-reat Britain. 
These circumstances have been grossly misrepresented ; and a British En- 
voy has gone to the extent of asserting, not only that the outrage was 
" provoked" by circumstances which transpired after the act was commit- 
ted, and with which the perpetrators were wholly unacquainted, but also 
to admit, in his correspondence with a confederate, that this assertion 
was made with a fuU knowledge of its falsity, and for the purpose of 
shielding that confederate from odium, by shifting it to innocent shoulders ! 
Should self-justification seem to require it, a succinct account of that 
seizure may be given in the Appendix to this volume. 

38 



594 NICAEAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 

ships, wliicli, in tlie little bay of Amapala, may lie witliiii a 
cable-length of the shore. The entrance may be effected 
with any wind, and the exit can always be made with the 
tide. Fresh water may be obtained in abundance on the 
islands and along the shores; the climate is delicious and 
healthy ; the surrounding mountains furnish timber of su- 
perior quality, including pine, for ship building and repairs ; 
in short, nature has here lavished every requisite to make 
the Bay of Fonseca the great naval centre of the globe. 
But what gives peculiar importance to it, and lends signifi- 
cance to the attempted seizure by Great Britain, is the fact 
that, if a ship canal is ever opened across the Continent, it 
seems more than probable that its western terminus must be, 
via the Estero Eeal, in this Bay. The evidence in support 
of this opinion will appear in another connection. 

The islands in the Bay are of great beauty. Several of 
them had anciently a large population of Indians. In Dam- 
pier's time there were two considerable Indian towns on the 
island of Tigre, and one on Mianguera. But the natives 
were so much oppressed by the pirates who made this Bay 
their principal station on the South Sea, that they fled to the 
main-land, and have never returned, Drake had his head- 
quarters on the island of Tigre, during his operations in the 
Pacific, and, under one pretest or another, it has been much 
frequented by British national vessels for many years. 
Its importance, in a naval point of view, is well understood 
by the Admiralty, under whose orders it was carefully sur- 
veyed by Capt, Belcher, R. N., in 1839. No American war 
vessel, it is probably unnecessary to add, has ever entered 
the waters of this Bay, although it is clear, to the narrowest 
comprehension, that it completely commands the whole coast 
from Panama to San Diego, and in the hands of any mari- 
time nation, must control the transit across either isthmus, 
and with it the commerce of the world. 



CHAPTEE XXIII. 

DEPARTURE FOR SAN LORENZO — MORNING SCENES — NOVEL CAVALCADE — 
A HIGH PLAIN — LIFE AMONGST REVOLUTIONS — NACAOME — MILITARY RE- 
CEPTION GEN. CA-BANAS AN ALARM NEGOTIATIONS BRITISH INTERFER- 
ENCE — A TRUCE — ^PROSPECTS OF ADJUSTMENT — AN EVENING REVIEW — THE 
SOLBIERY — ^A NIGHT RIDE — RETURN TO SAN LORENZO. 

A LITTLE before sunset, tlie tide had lifted our boat, and 
the wind being brisk and fair, we embarked for San Lorenzo. 
Our course was along the base of Sacate Grande. The 
vaqueros had set fire to the dry grass that afternoon, and 
when the night fell, it revealed a broad sheet of flame, ex- 
tending entirely across the island, sending up vast billows 
of black smoke, and moving onward with a deep and steady 
roar, like that of the ocean. Spires of flame, hke flashes of 
lightning, often darted upward amongst these clouds of 
smoke, or swooping downward, set fire to the grass in ad- 
vance of the devouring column. The spectacle was grand, 
and I watched it until midnight, and then crept beneath the 
chopa and went to sleep. 

I was awakened by a sense of suffocation, and found that 
it had rained during the night, and that the sailors had let 
down the flaps of the chopa, thus confining us in a low and 
narrow space, not much larger than an ordinary oven. I 
hastened to drag myself out upon the pineta. Day was just 
breaking, and a hot, gray mist hung around us, half con- 
cealing yet magnifying every object. I could only make out 
that the bongo was lying high up on a broad, black beach, 
fifty yards from a sullen looking river, whose opposite shore 



596 NICARAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 

was overlning witli drooping trees. Tlie sailors were all 
gone, and I was perfectly ignorant of our position. I felt 
oppressed by a lassitude such, as I liad never before expe- 
rienced, and longed for water, if only to wash my bands and 
face. The river was dark and sullen, yet it appeared as if 
it might refresh me. So I got over the side of the boat, but 
sunk at once to the instep in a black, sickening mire. I 
nevertheless advanced towards the water's edge, and had 
nearly reached it, when I discovered a number of large alli- 
gators, trailing their ugly carcasses through the mud, not ten 
feet distant. In the deceptive light they looked absolutely 
monstrous. I did not stop to take a second view, but re- 
treated to the bongo with a rapidity which five minutes 
before I would have thought impossible. Here I roused 
Ben, and then commenced hallooing for our patron. Directly 
we heard his voice in the distance, and soon after he came 
stalking towards us, appearing through the mist like one of 
the genii of Arabian story. 

It turned out that we were about three leagues up an 
estero formed by the river Nacaome, and within six leagues of 
the town of the same name, whither we were bound. A 
short distance in advance, and to the right of us, the patron 
said there were some cattle ranchos, whither he had gone 
with the officer who had accompanied us, to obtain horses for 
our expedition. I inquired with what luck, and received 
the expected answer, " no hay !" accompanied with the 
usual expressive wave of the forefinger. It was certainly a 
comfortable prospect, stuck there in the mud, amidst mists, 
and deadly damps, and alligators. My previous sense of ex- 
haustion rapidly gave place to a vague feeling of injury and 
general discontent and disgust. Determined to know the 
worst, I ordered the patron to lead me to the ranchos. They 
were miserable huts, hastily constructed of bushes and palm- 
leaves, surrounded by a drove of melancholy cows, which 
some fever-and-agueish looking women were engaged in 



MORNING SCENES. 697 

milking. A brawny mestizo, with a deep scar across Ids 
face, sat by a little fire, turning some pieces of meat on the 
coals ; and a pack of mangy dogs, showing their long, white 
teeth, sneaked snarling around our legs. I bade the brawny 
mestizo good morning ; he looked up with a fartive, suspi- 
cious glance, but made no reply. How far all these circum- 
stances contributed to restore good humor, the reader can 
readily imagine. My first impulse was to shoot a dog or 
two, and their owner in the bargain, if he made any disturb- 
ance in consequence, but thought better of it, and sat down 
gloomily in a damp hammock which I found strung between 
the trees. 

Shortly after, my companions came up from the bongo, and 
the mist lifting, and matters generally assuming a more cheer- 
ful aspect, we took possession of the mestizo's fire, and be- 
gan to prepare breakfast. A few conciliatory reals set the 
women to grinding tortillas for us, and really made the mes- 
tizo himself complacent, — at any rate, he exhibited some 
grim signs of gratitude by kicking his curs from around our 
legs. 

"We had hardly finished our breakfast, when our friend, 
the of&cer, returned, accompanied by some Indians, one of 
whom was an alcalde, each leading a couple of horses. Such 
horses ! They were " caballos del campo," rough beasts 
from the ranchos, long ago mortgaged to the buzzards. We 
had fortunately brought our saddles with us, and were not 
long in getting mounted, and on our road — ^if the bed of the 
river can be called a road. It was a cavalcade worthy of 
Hogarth's pencil, and each horseman laughed inordinately, at 
the comical figure cut by his companions. At the head of 
the party rode our Indian alcalde, with the air of a man dis- 
charging an exalted and responsible duty. He had heard of 
"El Norte," but had no clear notions of its whereabouts; he 
couldn't tell whether it was northward or southward, but 
knew that it was " muy poderoso," very powerful, and had 



598 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 

vessels of war, and a great many cannons. He led us up 
the stream to a ford, crossing whicli, we struck into a 
broad path, connecting with the camino real to JSTacaome. 
The vegetation in the river valley was very luxuriant, 
affording food for many droves of cattle, which, at the 
height of the dry season, are driven down from the elevated, 
parched savannas of the interior to browse here. This prac- 
tice accounted for the number of temporary huts which we 
passed in our march, and which were only built to last a 
month or two, while the cattle remained in the valley. 

The alcalde took us out of our way to his own house, 
which was a rude but permanent establishment, where he 
insisted on our stopping long enough to drink a calabash of 
milk ; I obliged him by dismounting and entering for a mo- 
ment. The women were engaged in their eternal occupation 
of grinding tortillas, and, instead of rising to welcome us, 
bashfully continued their work. They were apparently pure 
Indians, but of a lighter shade than those of Nicaragua. 
They belong to a nation denominated Cholutecan, which is 
evidently a Mexican name, and probably the same with Cho- 
lultecan, i, e., people of Cholula, the place of the great teocalH 
or pyramid. A short distance beyond the alcalde's house, we 
reached a broad plain, covered only with clumps of gum 
arable bushes, interspersed with calabash trees. These did 
not particularly obstruct the view, and as the plain was high, 
we could overlook the country for a great distance around. 
Behind us was a wide expanse of low alluvial land, densely 
wooded, with the high islands of the Grulf distinctly visible 
beyond ; while in front rose a series of ragged, blue moun- 
tains, the outliers of the great central plateau of Honduras, 
As we advanced, the plain became more open, but strangely 
traversed, at intervals, by narrow strips of lava, projecting 
only a few feet above the ground. Finally the bushes dis- 
appeared altogether, and the plain assumed the character of 
an undulating savanna. And now, looking like some old 



AN ISOLATED HACIENDA. 599 

fortress, we discovered, a long way in advance, the low, strag- 
gling buildings of a hacienda, from which radiated lines of 
stone walls, the first we had seen in Central America. It 
was a grateful sight, and inspired our Eozinantes to such a 
degree, that, by a liberal application of whip and spur, they 
were actually seduced into a gallop — which they kept up in 
a paroxysmal way, until we reached the hacienda. In the 
laughter created by this race, we had not observed the com- 
motion which our approach had excited. We were at first 
mistaken for a party of mounted ladrones ; but as soon as 
we were distinctly made out, all alarm subsided, and the 
proprietor of the estate, a tall, courteous man, advanced ta 
welcome us. Dismounting, we left our blown horses with 
the mozos, under the broad corridor, and entered the house. 
One half of the grand sala was filled with tobacco in bales, 
from the plains of Santa Eosa, in the interior, on its way to 
El Tigre, to be shipped, via Cape Horn, for Holland ! 

We had not been long seated, before a young lady of 
great intelligence of face, grace, and benignity of manner, 
and dressed in American style, entered the room. The pro- 
prietor introduced her as his daughter, who, in consequence 
of her mother's death, was now his housekeeper. She con- 
versed with us readily, and I soon discovered that she had 
been well educated, and had travelled with her father both 
in the United States and in Europe. 

The conversation turned upon the present political dis- 
turbances, and we learned that General Gruardiola, the night 
previously, had reached the village of Pespire, only two 
leagues from ISTacaome, and that probably he would attack 
the place that very day. In fact, our host told me his valu- 
ables were already packed, and his horses saddled for flight 
into San Salvador, the moment the sound of guns should 
announce that all negotiations and attempts at compromise 
had failed. But I asked, if you leave, what will become of 
your property here? "It will be robbed," was the prompt 



600 mCARAGUA— jSTARRATIVB. 

reply, " but not for tlie first time ; the estate has been three 
times pillaged witMn the past six years !" 

I shuddered to think what might be the fate of the gentle 
girl before us, if, when the worst came to the worst, her 
father's plans of escape should fail him. She said she only 
wished that matters would take some decisive turn ; the 
sternest reality were better than this painful suspense. She 
did not care for herself, (and she pointed significantly to the 
hilt of a poignard concealed in her belt,) she had little to 
choose between life and death, except for the sake of her 
father and her motherless sisters. 

It was yet two leagues to Nacaome, and knowing the repu- 
tation of Greneral Gruardiola for impetuosity, I felt that the 
object of my visit could only be accomplished, if at all, by 
reaching the scene of action before any collision should take 
place. Our host was positive that the day would not pass 
without a battle. We accordingly mounted, and advanced 
as rapidly as our miserable horses enabled us. A little dis- 
tance beyond the hacienda, the road struck again into the 
narrow valley of the river ; and as we were now beyond the 
alluvions, and entering the mountains, it assumed allthe ap- 
pearance of a mountain stream. In fact, the whole scenery 
had changed, and was unlike that of any part of the country 
we had yet seen. The stones around us were rich in copper, 
and interspersed with quartz, and the granite outcrops here 
and there showed that we had reached the region of primi- 
tive rocks. The mountains were no longer isolated peaks, 
but took the form of continuous ranges, and made broad 
sweeps in the distance. The river too, here murmuring 
amongst the stones, there spreading out in broad, dark pools, 
reminded us of the upper tributaries of the Hudson. 

We passed several houses, occupied only by women ; the 
men had either joined the army, or had fled to the hills to 
escape the conscription. About a league from the hacienda, 
we met a man, splendidly mounted, with long hair, and a 



MOUNTAIN" SCENERY. 



601 



wild, bandit contour generally, who was riding express to 
the Port of La Union, with despatches from the commander 
of the San Salvadorean allies in Nacaome. He was known 
to some of our party as " Diablo Negro," Black Devil, and 







MOUNTAIN SCENERY IN HONDURAS. 



had a twin brother who rejoiced under the hardly less objec- 
tionable designation of " Diablo Blanco," White Devil. 
These twin devils were noted in the country as men of un- 
bounded activity and daring, and their titles were intended 
to be complimentary. Diablo Negro told us that an Indian 
runner, despatched by our official friend, had reached Naca- 
ome before he had left, — and that the army was ready to 
receive us upon one side, and Guardiola on the other. And 
then he laughed outright at his own observation, which he 



602 ISriCABAGUA — ^NAERATIVE. 

evidently thought was witty. The rebels, he said, were 
advancing, and if we rode fast" we might witness an " escar- 
amuza," or scrimmage, such as it would do our souls good to 
see ; and with a wild laugh, Diablo Negro struck spurs into 
his horse, and dashed off for La Union. 

The valley widened as we progressed, and soon a grand 
amphitheatre, encircled by hills, opened before us. Upon an 
eminence in the centre stood the town of Nacaome, the 
white walls of its houses and the stuccoed tower of its prin- 
cipal chu:|;ch looking like silver beneath the noonday sun. 
A single glance revealed to us the capabilities of the position 
for defence, and explained why it had been chosen as a final 
stand point by the Government. We could distinctly see 
that the roof of the church was covered with soldiers, and 
martial music reached our ears, subdued by distance, but yet 
having a wonderfully earnest and ominous sound. Our 
official friend, who was in advance, stopped for a moment 
and listened with an attentive but troubled air, and then re- 
joining us, begged that we would move on slowly, and allow 
him to ride ahead and ascertain what was the cause of the 
peculiar activity of the garrison. I could see that he 
thought Guardiola was about making an attack, and was 
anxious not to involve us in the confusion, not to say dan- 
ger, of a battle. We agreed to await his return in a little 
hollow, a short distance in advance. He thanked us, and 
galloped towards the town. Matters now appeared coming 
to a crisis, but we had gone too far to think of receding ; 
besides, our horses were used up, and would make a sorry 
show with Guardiola's lancers at their heels ! Our Nicara- 
gua servants were pale and silent, and I vainly attempted to 
rally them into good spirits. It was all very well for us to 
be merry, they said ; we were in no danger ; but Guardiola 
would make no ceremony with them, and the spokesman 
shuddered as he drew his hand across his throat, by way of 



ARRIVAL AT NACAOME. 603 

commentary on his own observations. They seemed some- 
what re-assured when Ben unfolded our flag, but yet kept 
religiously in the rear, ready to run at the first appearance 
of danger. 

We waited in the hot sun for our ofl&cial friend to return, 
until we were tired, and then moved on again towards the 
town. No sooner had we emerged from the hollow, how- 
ever, than we encountered a large cavalcade of officers, full 
uniformed and mounted on splendid horses. Amongst them 
was a plainly dressed, unpretending man, to whom we were 
introduced as Senor Lindo, President of Honduras. He was 
of middle age, but looked care-worn and prematurely old. 
With him was Gen. Cabanas, and a large proportion of that 
devoted band of officers associated with Gen. Morazan in his 
last gallant, but unsuccessful, struggle to preserve the old 
Federation. I had heard much of Gen. Cabanas, his gene- 
rosity, bravery, and humanity, and observed him with deep 
interest. He is a small, pale man, forty -five or fifty years of 
age, with a singularly mild face, and gentle, almost womanly, 
manners. Yet beneath that unassuming, retiring exterior, 
there slumbers a spirit which no disaster can depress, 'nor 
opposition subdue. For fifteen years he has been conspicu- 
ous in the political affairs of the country ; yet his deadliest 
foes cannot point to a single one of his acts during that long, 
anarchical period, tainted with selfishness, or influenced by 
hatred or revenge. I could not help thinking that, in more 
favored lands, and other fields of action, his noble qualities 
might have won for him a name distinguished amongst those 
whom the world delights to honor. 

Gen. Cabanas was now in command of the San Salva- 
dorean allies, and had under him, as aid, the sole surviving 
son of his benefactor and friend, Morazan. He was a hand- 
some youth, of noble bearing, and a frank, open expression 
of face, — a perfect type, it is said, of his father. He spoke 
English fluently, and at once explained to us the posture of 



604 NICAEAGUA — NARRATIVE. 

affairs. Guardiola's advance was already witMn siglit, and a 
detachment had been thrown forward to meet them, under 
command of Gren. Barrios. It was this movement which had 
attracted our attention, and alarmed our conductor. 

A short ride brought us to the suburbs of the town. The 
huts were all closed and deserted. Those within musket- 
shot of the plaza had their walls for several feet above the 
ground knocked away, so as to prevent their use by assail- 
ants for purposes of protection or concealment. The plaza 
itself was barricaded, with embrasures for cannon, which 
were so stationed as to sweep the streets leading to it. The 
sole entrance was by a covered way, so narrow as to admit 
the passage of but a single horseman at a time. The troops 
were all under arms, and the defences were fully manned, 
but by as motley an array of soldiers as it is possible to con- 
ceive. They received us, nevertheless, with prolonged vivas, 
and altogether seemed to be in high spirits. There was a 
kind of pleasurable excitement in the mere presence of dan- 
ger, in which I must own I could not resist sympathizing. 

We dismounted, and were ushered into the sala of a large 
house, fronting the church, and which had evidently be- 
longed to a family of some wealth. But it was deserted, and . 
destitute of furniture, excepting some tables and chairs, and 

one or two other articles, too heavy to be removed with 
ease. 

We had hardly got seated, and the usual formulas of an 
official reception were not yet concluded, when a gun was 
fired on the opposite side of the plaza, followed by the rapid 
beat of a drum, and the cry of "to arms! to arms!" We 
started to our feet simultaneously, and the next instant an 
officer entered and announced that a party of Guardiola's 
horse had eluded the scouts, and had already entered the 
town. Senor Lin do hurriedly bade us be under no alarm, 
begged us to excuse him for an instant, and in less time than 
I am writing it, we were left wholly alone. A moment after- 



A BELEAGURED TOWN. 605 

wards, we heard the clear, firm voice of Gen. Cabanas, and 
going to the door, I saw him mounted on his horse in the 
centre of the plaza, giving his orders coolly and deliberately, 
as if engaged in a review. The men stood at the barricades 
three deep ; the matches of the gunners were lighted ; and 
an attacking party was sallying rapidly by the only gate, to 
cut off the assailants. Having been accustomed to regard a 
Central American army of new levies as little better than a 
mob, I was surprised to see the order, rapidity, and alacrity 
with which every movement was conducted, and was rather 
anxious, on the whole, to know how the motley fellows would 
fight, if driven to extremity. But it was soon apparent that 
we were not to be favored just then with anything beyond 
the excitement of preparation. For while we were helping 
ourselves to the contents of a box of claret and some bread 
and cheese, which the President, notwithstanding the bustle, 
had found time to send us, wondering why the performance 
did not commence, and speculating on the probable result, 
if Guardiola had really eluded the advance, and surprised 
the town — a young officer presented himself, bearing Gen. 
Cabanas's compliments, and the information that the alarm 
had been occasioned by a petty detachment of lancers, who 
had entered the surburbs in mere bravado ; that half of them 
had been captured on the spot, and that the rest were in full 
retreat, with a troop of the Government cavalry close at their 
heels. 

Not long after, the President and his Secretary returned, 
and I learned that Commissioners had already been sent to 
Guardiola, with a view of disabusing him of certain errors 
into which he had fallen, and procuring his peaceable submis- 
sion to the Government. The intervention of San Salvador, 
and if necessary of Nicaragua also, the President thought, 
would materially influence the conduct of the refractory 
General; but he feared, after all, that evil influences and 
counsels " might prevail. It was clear that Guardiola had 



606 NIOAEAGUA — ^NAERATIVE. 

been imposed upon by the Serviles of Guatemala, and witbout 
being conscious of it, was in fact made use of by them, and 
their foreign coadjutors, to prevent Honduras from entering 
into the proposed new confederation. Senor Lindo showed 
me a letter from a man named Pavon, Secretary to the 
British Charge d' Affaires, Mr. Chatfield, addressed to a con- 
federate, then under arrest for treason, in which the whole 
plot of the Servile faction was unfolded. This letter had 
been entrusted to Admiral Hornby, commander of the 
British naval force in the Pacific, now on board the Asia, 
eighty-four, in the Port of La Union, and by him had been 
inadvertently sent to the Government. Mr. Pavon congrat- 
ulated his friend that matters were taking a decided turn 
against what he was pleased to call "the false American 
principles [i. e. of union], so industriously promulgated by 
the Eepresentative of the United States ;" and after compla- 
cently intimating that the British "Admiral goes to La 
Union, well instructed by Mr. Chatfield," he proceeded to say, 
" I think that his arrival there will bring the revolution to a 
favorable close !" But whether Mr. Pavon told the truth 
when he added, " Mr. Chatfield is at this moment writing to 
the Admiral, but charges me to salute you in his behalf, and 
to say that all which this contains meets his approbation," is 
a matter between himself and his principal. The President 
was naturally very indignant to find that the British Lega- 
tine was the centre of the intrigues and plots which dis- 
tracted the State ; and spoke with feeling of the attempt, 
made at this juncture, by the " well instructed" British Admi- 
ral, to coerce the State into a compliance with demands of 
doubtfal vaHdity, and the surrender of territorial rights, in 
violation alike of justice and the constitution. He very na- 
turally conceived that this rude and hostile intervention was 
designed to favor the insurgents, and procure the substitu- 
tion of a more manageable government than now existed. 
The demands of the British Admiral were certainly very 



BEITISH INTERFERENCE. 607 

extraordinary. It appeared that Honduras had, some months 
before, delegated a commissioner for a specific purpose, to the 
State of Costa Eica. While there, this commissioner fell in 
■with the British Charge d' Affaires and his industrious Secre- 
tary, who, between them, prevailed upon him to sign a treaty, 
providing, amongst other things, for the qualified cession of 
portions of the territory of Honduras to Great Britain. The 
commissioner had no power to treat with the British Eepre- 
sentative, and the latter knew perfectly well that no arrange- 
ment with him could be in any way binding upon Honduras. 
In fact, the commissioner never presumed to communicate 
the so-called treaty to his Grovernment ; and the first 
official knowledge the President had of it, was a copy 
enclosed to him by the British Admiral, with a demand for 
its immediate ratification, under threats of blockades and 
territorial seizures in case of refusal ! 

The reply of the Government was courteous, but decided : 
it wholly declined to ratify or in any way acknowledge the acts 
of the commissioner, who had not only proceeded without 
authority, but had assumed the exercise of powers prohibited 
by the constitution, for which he had now been arrested, and 
would be tried on a charge of treason ! These things may 
appear incredible, yet they are not only true, but a fair illus- 
tration of the whole course of British policy in Central 
America. It is proper to add, that, at the outset, the Admiral 
was probably unaware of the nature of the fraud which was 
attempted ; for after the explanations of the Government, he 
seems to have permitted the whole matter to drop. 

While I was occupied in examining the papers connected 
with these extraordinary proceedings, Don Yictorino Castel- 
lano, an influential citizen of San Salvador, who had been 
delegated as a commissioner to Guardiola, for the purpose of 
procuring his submission, returned with the gratifying intel- 
ligence that there was every prospect of success; that 
Guardiola had called back his advance, and agreed upon a 



608 NICARAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 

total suspension of hostilities for tliree days, to give time for 
a definite adjustment of differences. He, in fact, brought 
■with him the outline of the terms upon which the General 
was willing quietly to lay down his arms, and disband his 
men, viz. : a general amnesty, and the immediate convocation 
of the State Legislature, to act upon certain alleged griev- 
ances in the internal administration, and particularly upon 
the pending plan of Federation. The last stipulation was 
made by the General with the evident purpose of relieving 
himself from the odium of favoring the predominant, but 
most artfully concealed purpose of his late Servile allies. 

I was satisfied, from the moderate nature of these demands, 
that all danger of a collision was now over, and that my 
services "to keep the peace" would be no longer required. 
I therefore determined to retrace my steps to the Bay, and 
proceed on my proposed trip to San Salvador. This deter- 
mination was received by our Nicaraguan attendants with a 
satisfaction bordering on ecstacy, and they would have sad- 
dled the horses, and started at once. But the day was 
intensely hot, and I preferred to ride to San Lorenzo by 
moonlight. 

At four o'clock, Gen. Cabanas sent us a very fair dinner, 
and after it was despatched, we ascended the tower of the 
church, to witness the evening review. This church is a 
large, quaint structure, with a fine altar, and some dim, old 
paintings on the walls, which looked as if they might have 
hung there for centuries. From the tower we obtained a full 
view of the surrounding country. As I have said, Nacaome 
is a place of some three or four thousand inhabitants, clean, 
and very well built, and situated upon an eminence in the 
midst of a broad amphitheatre, shut in on every side by 
mountains. To this great natural circus there is but one 
entrance and exit, by the narrow winding valley of the river, 
which almost encloses the town in its embrace. It appears 
to constitute two distinct streams, and from this circumstance 



SCENES AT NACAOME. 

it may derive its name, wliicli, in tlie Mexican language, 
signifies two bodies, i, e., double stream. The town is situated 
on the camino real, leading to Tegucigalpa and Comyagua, 
the principal cities of the interior, and derives some of its 
importance from that circumstance. It is also very well 
supported by the adjacent country, which is fertile, and 
under what, in Central America, may be called tolerable 
cultivation. 

From the tower we could discover many hattos, surround- 
ed by small patches of plantains and yucas ; pictures of prim- 
itive simplicity, and suggestive of unbounded rural delights. 
But the huts were all deserted ; their owners were fugitives 
in the mountains; and, excepting a troop of lancers, with 
their weapons flashing in the sun, it might have been a 
painted scene, in its total absence of life and action. 

The review, which took place just outside of the town, 
afforded an agreeable relief to the contemplation of this piC' 
ture, so lovely and luxuriant, yet so deserted and lonely, 
"When the men were paraded, I was surprised at their num 
ber, and wondered where they had been kept concealed 
There were between two and three thousand, — as motley a 
set as can well be imagined; and, with the exception of 
about four hundred " veteranos" from San Salvador, dressed 
in accordance with their individual tastes. Some had shirts, 
and others jackets, but many had neither ; and although I 
believe all had breeches, yet the legs of those breeches were 
of all lengths, generally reaching but a little below the knee. 
There were wags amongst them also, who, probably for the 
sake of completing the diversity, had one leg rolled up and 
the other let down. There were the tall, sandalled Caribs 
from northern Honduras, grim and silent, side by side with 
the smaller and more vivacious Indians of San Salvador. 
There were Ladinos and Mestizos, whites and negroes, con- 
stituting a living mosaic, as unique as it was unparalleled by 
anything which I had ever before seen. To those accus- 

39 



610 NICAEAGUA — NARRATIVE. 

tomed to tlie well equipped and uniformed soldiery of otliei 
countries, this display would have been but little better than 
a broad caricature. It certainly afforded none of the "pomp 
and circumstance" of war, and would have made a very 
indifferent figure in Brcfadway or Hyde Park. But if brought 
to encounter the reahties of war, weary marches, exposure, 
hunger, and privations of every kind, the disparity would not 
be so great. For these men will march, under a tropical sun, 
forty, fifty, and even sixty miles a-day, with no other food 
than a plantain and a bit of cheese ; sleep, unprotected, on 
the bare ground, and pass, unimpaired, through fatigues 
which would destroy an European army in a single week. 
MiUtary success depends more upon these qualities than upon 
simple bravery in battle. But in this respect the soldiers of 
Central America are far from deficient. When well of&cered, 
they fight with obstinacy and desperation. In their encoun- 
ters with the Mexican troops sent against them by Iturbide, 
they proved themselves the better soldiers, and were almost 
universally successful, whatever the odds against them. The 
cruelties, barbarous massacres, and wholesale slaughters 
which have marked many of their struggles amongst them- 
selves, have been rather due to the character of their leaders 
than to any natural or innate bloody disposition of the peo- 
ple themselves. Gen. Cabanas told me that he had never any 
difficulty in restraining the passions of his men ; and to the 
credit of that officer be it said, that none of his victories 
have been disgraced by those atrocities which have been, 
unfortunately, the rule, rather than the exception, in Central 
America. 

It was evening ; the moon was shining brightly on the 
fagade of the principal church of Nacaome, bringing in rehef 
the gaunt, old statues of the saints which filled its various 
niches ; the band was playing the national air on the terrace 
in front, and the men, relieved from duty, were reclining in 
groups around the plaza, and all appeared peaceful and 



MOONLIGHT RIDE. 611 

cheerful, when our horses were led to our door. President 
Lindo was urgent that I should stay ; but convinced that I 
could be of no further service, and that our presence would 
materially incommode him, I persisted in my purpose of de- 
parture. A party of lancers was deputed to accompany us ; 
and bidding our friends farewell, and " un buen exito " to 
their campaign, we defiled through the silent streets, on our 
return. I observed, however, as we rode along, that not- 
withstanding the apparent favorable disposition of Guardiola, 
Gen. Cabaiias had rehnquished none of his precautions. 
Treachery had been the vice from which he had suffered 
most, and beneath which the Eepublic had fallen. We ac- 
cordingly found picquets stationed all about the town, and 
were more than once startled by " quien vive ?" from parties 
concealed in the chaparral which bordered our road. 

I halted, for a moment, at the hacienda where we had 
stopped in the morning, and experienced a real delight in 
reheving the proprietor of a part of the anxiety and suspense 
under which he was laboring. His daughter pressed my 
hand thankfully when I left ; her heart was too full for ut- 
terance, but her face expressed more plainly than words the 
strength of that fihal feeling which finds its highest pleasure 
in the solace of a parent's cares. 

The heat, excitement, and exertion of the day had gTcatly 
fatigued us ; and as we trotted slowly over the plain, which I 
have already described, I was overcome with an insurmounta- 
ble drowsiness, and falling asleep, actually rode, in that state 
for nearly its whole length. I was only awakened by a 
sharp blow on my head, from an overhanging limb of a tree, 
just as we entered the thickly wooded valley of the river. 
Half an hour more brought us to our bongo, which, though 
far from affording luxurious accommodations, was yet, just 
now, a most welcome retreat. I lost no time in creeping 
under the chopa, and in five minutes was wrapped in deep 
and dreamless slumber. 






r" . ^'^' 



' "^ 



.- fl4^^'(e«A, '»!r>JM* * A. ^W 



riy>--— ,-. , 




LA UNION AND VOLCANO OF CONCHAGUA. 




CHUECH OF LA UNION. 



CHAPTER XXIY. 

LA UNION — OYSTERS — ^AMERICAN BOOKS — CHIQUIRIN — ^FRENCH FRIGATE " LA 
SERIEUSe" — ADMIRAL HORNET OF THE ASIA 84 — ^FRENCH ANB ENGLISH WAR 
VESSELS — ^ASCENT OF THE VOLCANO OF CONCHAGTJA — ^A MOUNTAIN VILLAGE — 
PECULIARITIES OF THE INDIANS — LAS TORTILLERAS — VOLCANO OF SAN MIGUEL 

FIR FORESTS — AN ANCIENT VOLCANIC VENT — THE CRATER OF CONCHAGUA 

PEAK OF SCORLS; — VIEW FROM THE VOLCANO — ^ENVELOPED IN CLOUDS — PER- 
ILOUS DESCENT — ^YOLOLTOCA — PUEBLO OF OONCHAGUA AGAIN — AN OBSEQUIO 
— ^INDIAN WELCOME — SEMANA SANTA — DEVILS — SURRENDER OF 6UARDI0LA — 
SAN SALVADOR — ITS CONDITION AND RELATIONS. 

"When morning broke, we "were entering tlie inner bay of 
La Union, above wbicli towers tbe great volcano of Amapala, 
or Concbagua. Between ns and tbe sbore, at tbe road of 
Cbiquirin, wbere a clear mountain stream comes down from 
tbe volcano, and forms a little bay, were tbe Britisb sbip-of- 
tbe-line "Asia," of 84 gims, and tbe Frencb frigate "La 
Seriense." Tbe first was tbere on tbe usual semi-annual 
visit, for enforcing trumpery claims, and tbe second to watcb 
tbe " Asia" and tbe course of events in tbis quarter. Its 
officers and crew, altbougb it was scarcely dayligbt, were 
engaged in making soundings, and otber observations on tbe 
deptb, capacity, etc., of tbe Bay. 

Tbe Bay was still, and two bours of steady pulbng brougbt 
us in front of La Union, wbicb is a small place, deriving its 
entire importance from being tbe port of tbe city of San 
Miguel, twelve leagues in tbe interior, and tbe most impor- 



614 NICARAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 

tant commercial point in all Central America. Excepting 
three or four large bodegas or ware-lionses, close to tlie water, 
belonging to the Government, and devoted to the reception 
of goods in bond, there was not a single object worthy of 
remark in the place. It nevertheless had an air of thrift ; 
and a long dock or pier, then under construction, and designed 
to facilitate the landing and shipping of cargoes, showed that 
there was here rather more enterprise than we had yet 
discovered in the country. 

Col. Caceres, the Commandante, had made us out with his 
glass, and was on the dock, together with my old friends, Dr. 
Drivon and Mons, Mercher, to receive and welcome us. 
He was a fine appearing ofiicer, accomplished in manner, and 
in his tasteful undress uniform of dark green, might have 
been taken for an American. He had the good sense to omit 
parading his little garrison, and led us at once to his house, 
the best in the place, where we were introduced to his wife, 
Dona Maria, a tall, intellectual, well educated woman, whose 
cordial welcome made us quite at home. This lady, during 
my stay, was unremitting in her kindnesses, and, with her two 
sweet little daughters, has left an impression upon my mind 
as pleasing as it is ineffaceable. 

The apartments which were assigned to me bore the best 
evidences that our host and hostess were far above the common 
mark, in point of education and accomplishments. A piano 
and a variety of music books occupied a part of the sala, 
and in my private chamber was a library well stocked with 
standard works ; amongst them I observed Prescott's Mexico, 
Irving's Columbus, Cooper's Spy, a translation of Livingston's 
Code, and Spanish Lives of Washington and Dr. Franklin. 
The "Espy," of the lamented Cooper, I may mention, seems 
to be better known in Spanish. America than any other work 
in the English language. I found it everywhere ; and when 
I subsequently visited the Indian pueblo of Conchagua, the 
first alcalde produced it from an obscure corner of the ca- 



PORT OF LA UNION". 616 

bildo, as a very great treasure. He regarded it as veritable 
history, and thought "Seuor Birch" a most extraordinary 
personage, and a model guerillero. 

Dr. Drivon, who had recently returned from California, in 
hish dissfust, was established at the Dona Antonia's, but a 
square distant; and as he had often praised the oysters 
found in the Bay of Fonseca, I hinted to him, before we had 
fairly got ashore, that I was ready to pass judgment on 
them. Fortunately, the Indians had brought in a fresh sup- 
ply that morning, and he sent round a sack-full, which were 
served for breakfast. They were small, compact, and salt, 
and we ate them with the utmost relish. All hands con- 
curred in saying that they were quite equal to the best 
" New-Haveners," and the value of the Gulf of Fonseca be- 
came straightway doubled in our eyes. And then they were 
so cheap ! As many as a man could carry for a medio, or six 
cents ! We had them three times a day while we stayed in 
La Union, and before we left, I instructed the Dona Maria 
in the mysteries of pickling them, and she kindly sent 
me a little jar, by the Grovernment courier, every week dur- 
ing the whole of the time I remained in the country. The 
oysters at all other places on the coast are large, soft, and 
insipid. Why they should differ so widely here, is a ques- 
tion for naturalists ; I vouch only for the fact. 

During the afternoon we were waited upon by the Lieu- 
tenant of "La Serieuse," with an invitation from the com- 
mander to fisit his frigate, which we agreed to do on the 
following day, and accordingly, next morning we set out, 
accompanied by a guide and Mons. Mercher. This gentle- 
man had been an ofi&cer under the Empire, and had resided in 
this country for thirty years, without becoming a whit less a 
Frenchman, and was, just as ready to hurrah for a President 
as an Emperor, so that thereby he went against England and 
British aggrandisement, and for the glorification of "la 
belle France !" I had the Oommandante's own horse, a 



616 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 

noble animal, full of spirit, but so gentle tbat a cbild could 
manage him. M., as usual, set the town in a roar, by tumb- 
ling from Ms mule in the principal street ; a feat wliicli, by 
constant practice, lie bad come to perform without suffering 
any damage. It was twelve miles by water to Chiquirin, 
where the vessels were anchored, but only six overland. 
Our road was nothing more than a mule path, skirting the 
bluff shores, and winding over the broken spurs of the vol- 
cano, amongst stones and rocks, and fallen trees, which it 
at first seemed impossible to surmount. After a wild scram- 
ble, we reached some ranches in the woods, which were 
called the Pueblecita de Chiquirin, where we could hear 
the thunder of the surf below us. We now descended rap- 
idly, and soon came upon a broad, sandy beach, skirting a 
small harbor, within which the '"Asia" and " La Serieuse " 
were anchored. A bright mountain stream, leaping amongst 
the black rocks, here plunged into the harbor, and on its 
banks, beneath the tall trees, the crew of the Asia had 
erected a temporary forge. One party of sailors was filling 
water-casks, and another was engaged in towing off some 
cows to the ships ; altogether it was a busy and exhilarating 
scene. We were descried from "La Serieuse," and in a few 
minutes the Captain came in his gig to conduct us on board. 
We embarked with some dif&culty ; for, although the little 
bay is well sheltered fi:om winds, it is so near one of the 
entrances of the Gulf, that the lateral swell is hardly less 
than the direct. We spent some hours on board the frigate, 
which was a model of neatness and order. The armament 
comprised all the latest improvements, and the crew was 
composed entirely of young and vigorous men. After a 
lunch, which was despatched with patriotic and fraternal 
accompaniments on both sides, I concluded an arrangement 
with the Captain touching an ascent, the following day, to 
the bare summit of the volcano, which pierced the clouds 
above our heads. 



THE ASIA, EIGHTY-FOUR. 617 

I thought it but civil to pay the Admiral a visit, and so 
waving all etiquette, and the captain favoring me with his 
boat, I started, under the prescribed salute, for the Asia. 
The Admiral received us cordially ; and conducted us into 
his cabin, where we found his wife and her sister, and two 
of the admiral's own daughters — all refined and accomplished 
ladies, with whom we spent a most agreeable hour. It was 
a real luxury to hear our mother tongue again, from a 
woman's lips — and I regretted that a previous engagement 
at La Union prevented me from accepting the Admiral's 
kind invitation to spend the night on board. The ladies 
were bitten with onithology, and had a most brilliant collec- 
tion of stuffed, tropical birds, which they were anxious to 
augment. So it was agreed that they should come up some 
day of the week to La Union, where I engaged to provide 
prog and poultry for the party. 

The Asia was a great, cumbersome vessel, overstocked 
with men and cows and chickens, and looked like a store 
ship. Its guns were of the ancient fashion, of light calibre, 
and as compared with the heavy 64's and 82's of "La Se- 
rieuse," quite childish and behind the age. As I glanced 
through its decks, and contrasted its old, heavy, stupid-look- 
ing sailors with the young, quick, and intelligent crew of 
the Frenchman, I could not resist the impression that Eng- 
land's grasp on the trident was growing feebler every day, 
and that another war would wrest it from her hands for ever. 
The commercial marine of the United States now exceeds 
hers ; her vessels are beaten in every sea in the peaceful 
rivalry of trade ; and France is preparing, if indeed she is 
not prepared, to more than regain the glory lost at Tra- 
falgar. 

Admiral Hornby was, however, the model of the frank and 
hearty sailor; and although I thought it was very small 
business for one of Nelson's men, and a Knight of Bath, to be 
engaged in bullying the poor devil Governments of Central 



618 NICAEAGUA — KAERATIVE. 

America, threatening them with blockades and the Lord 
knows what else, if they did not prevent their editors from 
"reflecting generally and particularly on the British govern- 
ment,"^ still, I was glad to meet him, and would have gone far 
out of my way to have done him a service. He was con- 
founded by the politics of Central America, and well he might 
be. What little information he possessed, it was evident 
enough, had been derived from English agents in the country, 
who had resided here for many years, and had become as es- 
sentially partisans as any of the natives — sharing in local and 
personal hates and jealousies, and altogether burlesquing the 
offices which they filled. He had been instructed that it was 
his duty to be particularly severe upon Honduras, San Sal- 
vador, and Nicaragua, the only liberal States of the old 
Republic, and unfortunately the only ones which had good 
harbors and valuable islands to be seized in "behalf of Her 
Britannic Majesty." But thus far he had had but poor suc- 
cess in the objects of his visit. Nicaragua had replied to 
his notes by enclosing a copy of that article of its constitu- 

^ " A series of articles have appeared from time to time in the papers of 
Nicaragua, which reflect generally and particularly upon the British gov- 
ernment, and its respectable representative, Mr. Chatfield, as also holding 
up the English nation, collectively and individually, to pubhc indignation. 
Such language is improper and unjust, and I bring it thus officially before 
your government, believing that it will make use of its influence over the 
pubhc press to restrain, in future, all offences of this nature. * * It is 
my intention to return to this port in a few days, when I expect to find 
a satisfactory answer to this communication." — Rear Admiral Horriby, to 
the Sect, of State of Nicaragua, March 19, 1850. 

" The press of Nicaragua has not held up the British nation collectively 
or individually to public indignation, unless by the simple announcement 
of such acts as have been committed in the port of San Juan, in the 
island of Tigre, and elsewhere. Nothing can be cited in proof of your 
charge ; and the Supreme Director regrets. Sir, that you should counsel 
him to commit an unlawful act, by attacking the liberty of the press, which 
is guarantied in the most solemn manner by the constitution of the 
State." — Reply of Senor Salinas, Sect, of State, March 31, 1850. 



PUEBLO OF CONCHAGUA. 619 

tion guarantying tlie liberty of tlie press ; Honduras had. flatly 
refused to liave an unconstitutional treaty crammed down its 
tkroat; and San Salvador liad with equal decision declined 
to recognize an obnoxious citizen, who claimed to be British 
Yice Consul, under a commission from Mr. Chatneld. And in 
the end, the Admiral had to take his departure, without hav- 
ing achieved anything beyond deepening the hatred towards 
the British government — a hatred, unfortunately too well 
founded, and the necessary result of a long series of insults 
and aggressions. 

Our return to La Union was unmarked by a single inci- 
dent worthy of record, except the unsolicited presence of a 
couple of pumas, for a moment, in our path ; and the even- 
ing was devoted to preparations for ascending the volcano. 
At about nine o'clock the Captain of " La Serieuse" arrived, 
and next morning, long before daylight, accompanied by a 
soldier of the garrison carrying an immense alforgas, pre- 
pared by the Dona Maria, we set out. We were not long in 
passing through the town, and the chaparral which sur- 
rounds it ; and then, striking into a dark and ragged ravine, 
we commenced the ascent. As day dawned, I observed with 
surprise that the path was broad and smooth ; and we now be- 
gan to meet numbers of Indians, men and women, laden with 
fruit, corn, and other commodities, coming down from the 
volcano. I was greatly puzzled to account for any popula- 
tion in these rocky fastnesses, when the path turned suddenly 
up the almost precipitous banks of the ravine, and we found 
ourselves, a league and a half from the port, in the Indian Pue- 
blo of Conchagua. Its site is most remarkable. Here is a broad, 
irregular shelf on the volcano's side, the top, if I may so speak, 
of a vast field of lava, which, many ages ago, flowed down- 
ward to the sea. This shelf is covered with rocks thrown to- 
gether in rough and frowning heaps, to make room for the 
dwellings of the inhabitants, which are half hidden by these 
rude pyramids. "We wound some minutes through the crooked 



620 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 

streets, and then reached the plaza, a large area, in the centre 
of which stands a low, picturesque church, built some time 
in the seventeenth century. We could scarcely comprehend 
that in a land of broad, fertile, and well- watered plains, a 
spot like this, rugged, sterile, and without a single fountain, 
should have been selected as the residence of any human 
being, much less of an entire community of two or three 
thousand souls. Nothing but purposes of protection and 
defence could account for the circumstance ; and although a 
village may have existed here before the Conquest, yet I am 
disposed to credit the vague tradition which I afterwards 
heard, that a great portion of these Indians formerly lived 
where La Union now stands, and on the islands of the Grulf, 
and subsequently fled to this secluded spot to avoid the 
cruelty of the bucaneers, who, from 1650, for more than 
half a century, infested these shores. Here they seem re- 
solved to remain, although every drop of water for their 
use, except that caught from the clouds during the rainy sea- 
son, has to be brought for more than a league. The Govern- 
ment of San Salvador has offered every inducement to them — 
lands, exemption from taxation, and other privileges — ^to 
settle at the port, but they have steadily refused. 

Although it was not yet sunrise, the town was active ; 
and the whole female population was busy with its task of 
grinding and preparing tortillas for breakfast. Through the 
open doorways we caught glimpses of the inmates at their 
work, as cheerful and contented there, on the barren moun- 
tain side, as when the whole broad land was their own, and 
from these rugged heights they offered their adorations to 
the monarch Sun, the glorious emblem of their God. 

Little patches of plantains, and some palm and fruit trees 
occupied the narrow spaces between the heaps of rocks and 
the huts, and completed a picture of primitive life, not 
less striking and beautiful, though less luxuriant, than that 
of Mndiri. Our presence created quite a sensation ; and. 



PUEBLO OF CONCHAGUA. 621 

fearful of an obsequio, I hurried our guide, and passed rapidly 
through the village. Beyond, the road was more broken, 
and hundreds of paths diverged from it in every direction. 
We soon came to clearings for purposes of cultivation. 
Wherever there were a few square yards of soil, the trees 
and bushes had been removed, and maize had been planted. 
There were also some considerable openings, covered with 
stumps and fallen trees, resembling those which the traveller 
constantly encounters on our frontiers. They recalled to 
mind my border rambles, thousands of miles to the north- 
ward ; but I listened in vain for the solitudes to echo back 
the clear, ringing blows of the settler's axe.^ 

All around us were huge volcanic rocks, and we wound 
for two hours through the labyrinthine ravines, dark with 
trees, constantly ascending, but yet unable to see beyond the 
tangled verdure of the forest. Finally, however, the trees 
became fewer, and at eight o'clock we had emerged beyond 
the forests, and stood upon the grassy, scoriaceous slope of 
the volcano. And although the summit seemed more dis- 



i The picturesque little town of Conchagua has suffered several disasters since 
the time of my visit. In 1857-8, more than half of its population was carried off 
by the cholera; lately (August, 1859), it has been fearfully shaken by earthquakes. 
Its primitive church has been prostrated, and huge rocks which impended over 
the village have been thrown down, filling the little cleared fields, and crushing 
the fi'agile structures of the people in their fall. The earthquakes which caused 
this damage, and which also destroyed some buildings in the port of La Union, 
are reported to have been more violent than those which attended the eruption 
of Coseguina, in 1835. Serious apprehensions were entertained that this volcano 
was again on the eve of an eruptioa Advices to the 2d of September (1859), 
report a continuation of the shocks, and ominous symptoms of renewed activity 
on the part of the volcano, which were observed as far as the city of San Salva- 
dor, one hundred and fifty miles distant. 

I may here mention, that Captain Sir Edward Belcher has fallen into a sin- 
gular mistake regarding the mountain of Conchagua. Notwithstanding that it 
ia one mass of scorise and igneous rocks, he seems indisposed to accept it as a 
volcano 1 



622 JSIICAEAGUA — NAREATIVE. 

tant than ever, yet our position overlooked an almost inter- 
minable expanse of country. The Bay of La Union was 
mapped at our feet, and we could trace its esteros, gleaming 
like silver threads, amidst the level, green alluvions. To our 
left was the broad valley of San Miguel, but it was concealed 
from view by a mist, like an ocean of milk, above which, 
island-like, to mid-heaven, towered the great volcano of San 
Miguel — with the exception of'Ometepec, the most regular in 
its outlines of any in Central America. From its summit 
rose a plume of white smoke, opalescent in the sun.^ 

"We halted for a quarter of an hour in silent admiration, 
and then resumed our course. We were on one of the bare 
ribs of the volcano, with deep ravines on either side, up 
which the forests, reduced to a narrow line of trees, extended 
for some distance farther. These spurs or ribs of the 
mountain are covered with long, coarse grass, which gives 
them an appearance of great smoothness ; but it only conceals 
sharp, angular rocks, and a treacherous scoriaceous soil. 
Our path here, therefore, was more toilsome than in the 
forest; and as we advanced, the mules suffered greatly. I 
had given the Captain his choice of animals at the start, and 
he had selected a large, sleek, gentle mule, leaving me a 
little, black macho, a villanous hard trotter, vicious, but 
tough as iron. The Captain had kept ahead while we had a 
path, and seemed to have it very comfortable ; but now, 
when the ascent commenced in earnest, the black macho left 

1 The port of La Union is forty-five miles distant, in a right line, from 
the volcano of Coseguina, and on the occasion of its eruption, was deserted 
by the entire population, who fled in dismay to San Miguel. The dark- 
ness was so great that they were obliged to carry torches, which, how- 
ever, gave no light, except for two or three yards around them The 
terrified inhabitants, some on foot and others mounted, were followed by 
their equally terrified cattle, and even wild beasts, tame with fear, joined 
in the unearthly procession, while birds lit upon the travellers in affright^ 
and would not be driven away. 



VOLCANO OF CONCHAGUA. 623 

him far beliind. The Captain spurred, and whipped, and 
"sacre'd" in vain ; his mule finally came to a dead halt. We 
were now at the head of the ravines, whence the cone of the 
volcano rose sheer and regular as the pyramids. Upon one 
side of our path, and five or six hundred feet below us, was 
a belt of tall and beautiful fir trees, amongst which we dis- 
covered, with our glasses, a party of Indians collecting 
branches, wherewith to decorate the streets and churches, 
during the Semana Santa. As we acsended, we had startled 
many deer, and numbers of them now stood, with heads 
elevated and ears thrown forward, contemplating us from a 
distance. There were also hundreds of wild turkeys, and 
while the Captain was resting his mule, I pursued a flock of 
them, and killed two, with as many discharges of my pistol ; 
no great feat, by the way, for they were so tame that I came 
within fifty feet of them. 

Again we started, and now the narrow path wound zigzag 
up the face of the mountain, so that in riding along we could 
almost lay our hands on the turn next above us. I let my 
macho take his course, and he picked his way as uncon- 
cernedly as if traversing a plain. I only feared that the 
indurated scorias might give way beneath his feet, and I 
shuddered, as I glanced down the steeps, to think what would 
be the inevitable result. And thus we toiled on, slowly and 
painfully, winding np slopes which no human being could 
have ascended directly. Finally we reached a spot where, 
some time or other, there had been a slide of the earth, forming 
a narrow shelf ; and here the Captain's mule again came to a 
dead halt. Whip nor spur could move him. Finally, how- 
ever, I took hold of his halter, and succeeded in leading him 
into the narrow path, when he went on as before. At nine 
o'clock, we had reached the summit of the first peak, and 
stood upon the edge of a great funnel-shaped hollow, lined 
with grass, which had been an ancient vent. Its walls upon 
one side had been broken down, and we could see, far below, 



624 NICAEAGUA — ^NAERATIVE, 

the rough outhnes of the lava current which had flowed from 
it into the ocean. There were a number of these vents at 
various points, but the crater was still above us. In half an 
hour we reached its edge, and wound down its ragged side 
to a broad plain at its bottom. It was an immense amphi- 
theatre, walled with precipitous cliffs. The eastern side was 
elevated, and covered with a forest of beautiful pines ; its 
western depressed, with a spring of water at its lowest part, 
surrounded with a variety of trees and vines, constituting a 
sort of jungle, much frequented, our guide told us, by wild 
beasts. The rest of the area was covered with grass, now 
sere and yellow from the long drought. It was a singular 
spot, with no horizon but the rocky rim of the crater, and no 
view except above, where the sun shone down blindingly 
from a cloudless sky. We stood still, and like the pulsations 
of the earth's great heart, we could hear the waters of the 
Pacific beating at the base of the mountain. I thought of a 
Milton prisoned here, face to face with heaven, listening to 
the deep utterances of the ocean, and striking the strings of 
his awful lyre, to the majestic measure of the sea! 

"Let us go," said the Captain with g, shudder; "this is 
terrible." We scrambled out of the crater on the side op- 
posite from where we entered, towards a yet higher peak of 
scoriae, connected by a narrow ridge with the body of the 
mountain. Upon that peak, whose feet were planted in the 
sea, the warder at the entrance of the Bay, there was a 
kind of look-out established by the Government, with a flag- 
staff, and a series of telegraphic signals, to convey intelli- 
gence to the port. This was the point which we were most 
anxious to reach, and from whence I anticipated being able 
to map out the entire Grulf. It may seem hardly possible, 
but the narrow ridge connecting the two peaks was barely 
wide enough for a mule path ; it was like walking on the 
ridge of a house. The Captain refused to ride along it, and 
in order to keep him company, I also dismounted, and we pro- 



VOLCANO OF CONCHAGUA. 626 

ceeded on foot. It was past ten o'clock wiien we reached 
the summit of the peak ; but although almost exhausted by 
our perhaps unnecessary exertions, we lost all sense of 
fatigue in the magnificence and extent of the prospect, which 
was bounded only by the great dividing ridge of the Cordille- 
ras, looking like a faint cloud in the distance, upon one hand, 
and by the ocean horizon upon the other. The Gulf with 
its islands was revealed for its whole extent at a single glance, 
and it seemed as if we could almost look into the great Lake 
of Nicaragua, whose mountain-framed basin stretched awaj^ 
in inimitable perspective. 

At the foot of the flag-staff was a little hut, half excavated 
in the earth, its roof heavily loaded with stones, to prevent 
it from being swept away by the winds. Here we found a 
man, a broad-shouldered, merry Indian, who was the watcher 
or sentinel, and who was greatly rejoiced to receive us. He 
had been " observador" here for six years, and we were the 
first hlancos who had ascended during that period. And he 
produced his glass and made himself almost annoying in his 
zeal to point out to us the features of interest surrounding 
the Gulf. 

Meantime our guide reached us, with the mules and the 
alforgas. Amongst our equipments was the flag of the 
United States, which was at once run up to the top of the 
signal post and answered from the port and the French frig- 
ate. " I accept the omen," said the Captain gravely, and as 
I then thought and stiU believe prophetically; "that flag 
will soon be planted here en permanence, the symbol of 
dominion over two seas, and of a power the greatest the 
world has ever seen." 

The peak on which we stood seemed to have been formed 
in great part of scorise and other materials thrown out from 
the principal crater. It was a sharp cone, and the rounded 
summit was not more than sixty feet across. In fact, there 
was barely room for ourselves, the flag-staff, the hut, and 

40 



626 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 

the mules. It was now midday, and tlie thermometer mark- 
ed only 68° of Fahrenheit, while at the same hour it stood 
at 86° at the port, a difference of sixteen degrees. 

We had been nearly six hours in ascending, and after 
the novelty of the scene was a little over, we got beneath 
the hut, and helped ourselves to the plentiful contents of our 
guide's alforgas, and then, without intending it, both fell 
asleep. I was awakened by the Captain, who looked pinched, 
and chilly, and rising, found myself uncomfortably cold, "We 
crept outside ; but in little more than an hour, everything 
had undergone -a total change. Above and around us the 
sun was shining clearly, except when, a thin rift of drizzling 
cloud, rapidly sweeping by, half-hid us from each other's 
view. But below and around us, there was only a heaving 
ocean of milky white clouds — now swelling upwards to our 
very feet, and then sinking down so as to reveal long reaches 
of the bare mountain side. A current of sea air, satur^^ted 
with moisture, sweeping past, had encountered the volcano, 
and become partially condensed in its cooler atmosphere. I 
asked the observador if it was common, and he said it hap- 
pened almost daily ; but that sometimes the wind was not 
strong enough to sweep the mist away, and then he had sat 
here for hours, mjuy triste, very melancholy, in the gloom. 
It was then an excellent time to pray, he added, with a 
laugh. 

In an hour the mists had dissipated, and the view was 
again unobstructed. And, having taken the bearings of the 
principal landmarks, the Captain and myself, with the aid of 
the observador and our guide, amused ourselves by loosening 
rocks, and starting them down the side of the cone. They 
went leaping down, dashing the scoriae on all sides, like spray, 
in their bounds ; and, when they reached the belt of forest, 
we could see the trees bow down before them like grass be- 
fore the mower's scythe. One of these rocks, which we 
started with difficulty, must have weighed upwards of a ton ; 



VOLCANO OF CONCHAGUA. 627 

and we afterwards learned tliat it had been dashed to pieces 
within only a quarter of a mile of the Bay of Chiqnirin. 

At three o'clock, the observador having volunteered 
to show us a better route, we started on our return. He 
took us by a path running laterally down the side of the 
ridge connecting the two peaks to which I have referred, so 
steep that we repented having undertaken it, but so narrow, 
at the same time, as to render turning about impossible. In 
places my macho braced his feet and slid down a hundred 
feet at a time. It was "neck or nothing." The Captain 
was behind, but how. he got along I did not stop to inquire. 
It was one of those occasions when every man looks out for 
himself After fifteen or twenty minutes of this kind of 
progress, my hair was less disposed to the perpendicular, 
and I began to have great faith in my macho. I was only 
nervous about my saddle girths. 

In three-quarters of an hour, during which time we had 
descended more than two thousand feet, we reached the 
head of one of the principal ravines which furrow the moun- 
tain. Here was a narrow shelf, where was built the hatto of 
Juan, the observador, and where his family resided. Here, 
too, completely embowered amongst the trees, with a large 
reservoir, fifty feet long, cut by the ancients in the rock, was 
a copious spring, called Yololtoca ; the ground all around it 
was paved with flat stones, and the approaches were pro- 
tected by masonry. I was surprised to learn that it was 
from this spring that the inhabitants of Conchagua obtained 
now, as they had from time immemorial, their principal sup- 
ply of water. It is fully two -thirds of the distance up the 
volcano, and more than a league from the town. While we 
stood beside the reservoir, to allow our mules to drink, a 
troop of girls came toiling up a flight of steps near by. They 
were from the village, and, hke the aguadoras of Masaya, had 
little sacks strapped over their shoulders, wherein to carry 



628 NIOAEAGUA — ^NAERATIVB. 

their water jars, wlien weary of supporting them on their 
heads. 

After resting a few minutes, we continued our descent. 
The path was now wider and better, but in some places, 
where the feet of the aguadoras had worn narrow steps in 
the rock, which the mules were obliged scrupulously to fol- 
low, exceedingly dif&cult. An occasional fallen tree ob- 
structed our course, over which we had great trouble in 
forcing our mules. But after a deal of excitement, and 
whipping and hallooing, half an hour before sunset, we once 
more reached the village of Conchagua. As we approached, 
we had observed a man, stationed on a high rock, with an 
immense rattle, like those anciently used by watchmen in 
our cities. The moment he saw us, he. sprung it, and leap^ 
ing down, from rock to rock, disappeared in the direction 
of the town. Nearing the plaza, we saw the result ; men 
and women, all gayly dressed, were hurrying in that direc- 
tion, and there was evidently great excitement. At first, 
as this was holy week, I thought some of its ceremonies 
were in progress ; but when I saw a couple of alcaldes, with 
heads uncovered, and holding aloft their wands of office, 
advance to meet us, the awful truth that we had unwit- 
tingly fallen into the jaws of an obsequio, was forced upon 
me. The Captain rode up, in evident surprise, and inquired 
what I supposed the Indians wanted. I professed ignorance. 
Meantime the alcaldes had planted themselves in front of 
my macho, and one of them, without so much as "by your 
leave," had taken the bridle in his hands, while the other 
commenced reading an order of the municipality, felicitating 
the representative of the Great and Powerful Eepublic of 
El Norte on his arrival in the loyal Pueblo of Conchagua, 
and inviting him to a conviie, which, he added in paren- 
thesis, was then ready in the cabildo ; and concluding with 
" Dios, Union, Libertad ! " and " Yiva la Eepublica del 
Norte!" In the latter the people all joined. I thanked 



DINNER WITH THE INDIANS. Q29 

them in corresponding hyperbolical phrase, and then intro- 
duced to them my friend, the Captain, as an officer of another 
great Eepublic ; whereupon they uttered another round of 
vivas, — not for the Eepublic of France, but " El Amigo del 
Ministro del Norte ! " This over, we were marched, with an 
alcalde on each side, to the cabildo. It was a large building, 
with a mud floor, and a double row of benches extending 
around it, close to the wall. At one end was an elevated 
platform, upon which were three or four elaborately carved 
and antiquated chairs and a desk, where the alcaldes held 
their courts, and administered justice ; and at the other end 
a pair of stocks, wherein refractory criminals were confined, 
when occasion required. Against the wall, above the seats 
of the alcaldes, hung the fragments of an ancient flag ; but 
no one could tell me its history; it was "muy, muy an- 
tiguo ! " very, very old. 

In the centre of the apartment was a table for six ; the 
Captain, the two principal alcaldes, the bastonero or marshal, 
the cura, and myself. This part of the obsequio was unob- 
jectionable, and the distinguished guests performed their 
parts with spirit, and to the great admiration of the specta- 
tors. Commend me to an ascent of the volcano of Oonchagua 
for an appetite ! Before we had half finished, it grew dark, 
and a dozen boys holding torches were introduced and sta- 
tioned on the alcalde's platform. There they stood like 
bronze statues, without moving, until we had finished. It 
was the most extraordinary meal of my life ; and I experi- 
enced a singular sensation when I glanced around upon the 
swarthy, earnest faces of the Indians, rank on rank, only half 
revealed by the light of the torches, and reflected that here, 
in the volcanic fastnesses of San Salvador, amongst a people 
in whose veins not a drop of white blood flowed, the de- 
scendants of those who had fought against Cortez and Al- 
varado, the name of an American was not only a shield of 
security, but a passport to the rudest heart. It sounded 



630 NICAEAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 

strangely to liear them talk of Washington as the political 
regenerator, not of his own country alone, but of the conti- 
nent and the world. 

"We returned to La Union by moonlight. During the day 
my companions, according to arrangement, had started on 
their return to Nicaragua, and I was now left alone with 
Ben. I had determined to await here the result of affairs at 
Nacaome, from whence we had not as yet received any in- 
telligence. That very night a reinforcement from San 
Miguel marched silently through the streets of La Union, 
and in less than half an hour were embarked on their way 
to San Lorenzo. It was a forced march, and the practical 
reply to the despatches borne by " Diablo Negro." 

The day following was the holiest day of the Holy Week, 
and was ushered in with the firing of guns in the little plaza. 
The streets all wore their liveliest garb, and business of every 
kind was suspended. At nine o'clock the inhabitants all 
flocked to the church, whither I followed. But it was 
crowded to suffocation, and I was neither Christian nor curi- 
ous enough to remain ; accordingly I joined Dr. Drivon, 
at his rooms at the Dona Antonia's, from whence the whole 
out-door performances could be witnessed. At eleven 
o'clock the crowd emerged into the plaza, where a procession, 
preceded by some musicians, was formed. In advance went 
twenty or thirty men and boys, half naked, and painted in a 
frightfal manner, each bearing a wooden spear ; these were 
supposed to represent Jews, Moors, and Devils, who are 
all classed in the same pleasant category. They engaged in 
mimic fights, and dashed through the streets, clearing every 
living thing before the procession, and by their fantastic 
actions creating great merriment. Then followed twelve 
boys, some white and others dark, to represent the apostles, 
and two sweet little girls, dressed in gauze, personifying the 
Marys. Joseph of Arimathea, a meztizo, staggered beneath 
a heavy cross, and on a bier, borne by sis young men, was 



SEMANA SANTA. 631 

a wax figure representing Christ. Priests and clianters sur^ 
rounded it, and a crowd of women and cliildren, with palm 
branches, followed. The procession halted at every corner, 
while rockets were let off in the plaza. It was an incongru- 
ous, typical ceremony, allusive apparently to the crucifixion 
and bui'ial of Christ. I asked Dona Antonia's son, who had 
been one of the apostles, on his return to the house, what it 
meant. " Oh, nothing," he replied briskly, " only Christ is 
dead, and we shall have no God for three days !" From this 
reply I inferred that it had produced no very lasting impres- 
sion upon the minds of the apostles, whatever its effect upon 
the other participants. 

Next morning I was roused at daylight by the firing of guns, 
but supposing that it only part of the fiesta, I went to sleep, 
again. When I rose for breakfast, however, the Comman- 
dante placed in my hands an open letter from Gen. Cabanas, 
announcing the surrender of Gen. Guardiola, on substantially 
the basis before proposed, and the immediate dispersal of his 
troops. In less than one year after, Guardiola was in the 
field, as the aid of the President of San Salvador, against the 
very Serviles who had decoyed him into overt acts against 
his own government ! Thus ended the disturbances in Hon- 
duras, which had, at one time, threatened to break up the 
proposed Union of the States, and, for the tinie, British and 
Servile policy were again crushed to earth. 

The Admiral had already prepared to sail, and "La 
Serieuse," was every way ready to follow, at a moment's 
warning. And although a deputation had arrived from San 
Miguel, to conduct me to that city, yet the principal object 
of my visit having been accomplished, I was anxious to 
return to Leon, which I did a day or two subsequently, 
having in the meantime made another trip to the island of 
TigTe, and completed the observations necessary to the 
construction of the Map of the Gulf of Fonseca, elsewhere 
presented. 



632 NICARAGUA — ^NARRATIVE. 

I regretted mucli my inability to spend more time in San 
Salvador, wliicli is, in many respects, tlie most interesting 
and important State of the five which, composed the old 
federation. In territorial extent, it is the smallest, but it has 
a greater relative population than either of the others, and 
its people are better educated and more industrious. It has, 
from the first, been the stronghold of the Liberal party, and 
has constantly adhered," with heroic devotion, to the idea of 
Nationality, The restoration of the Eepublic of Central 
America is the grand object of its policy, and to this all other 
questions are regarded as subordinate. It has had frequent 
collisions with the agents of Great Britain, (who, without 
exception, are active Servile partisans,) but has always main- 
tained itself with firmness and dignity. As a consequence, it 
has been grossly maligned, and its people held up as imper- 
sonations of perfidy and disorder. But there is no part of 
Central, nor of Spanish America, where individual rights are 
better respected, or the duties of republicanism better under- 
stood. Whatever the fature history of Central America, its 
most important part, in all that requires activity, concentra- 
tion, and force, will be performed by San Salvador, 



CHAPTBE XXV. 

DSPARTUEE FOR THE UNITED STATES — AN AMERICAN HOTEL IN GRANADA — LOS 
COCOS — VOYAGE THROUGH THE LAKE — DESCENT OF THE RIVER — SAN JUAN — 
CHAGRES — HOME — OUTLINE OF NICARAGUAN CONSTITUTION — CONCLUSION OF 
NARRATIVE. 

Lsr tlie month, of June succeeding tlae events detailed above, 
having received leave of absence from my Government, I 
started from Leon on my return to the United States. It 
was tbe commencement of tlie rainy season, and already the 
vegetable world was putting on new robes of green. I found, 
as I rode from one town to another, that a year bad wrought 
a wonderful change in the aspect of the country. The inter- 
vention of tbe United States, and the probable speedy open- 
ing of Californian transit, had contributed to restore public 
confidence, and had given a new impulse to industry. I 
observed that fully one-third more ground had been put 
under cultivation than the year previously, and that in other 
respects considerable improvements had been made. 

In Granada an American hotel had been established, and 
I found that my old and excellent friend Dr. S. was no 
longer the sole representative of the United States in that 
hospitable city. I need not add that I took up my quarters 
at the " Fonda Americana." But my stay was brief The 
novelty of a residence amongst orange and palm trees had 
quite worn off; life had become tame and monotonous ; and 
I longed for the action and bustle of home. The playa of 
Granada was not less cheerful than when I landed ; the 
80 



634 NICAEAGUA— NARRATIVE. 

tropical winds were as bland, and the sun as brilliant. The 
Indians girls were not less arch, nor the languid Senoras less 
beautiful ; the Senorita Terisa sang operas quite as well as 
before ; but still there was a vacancy to be supplied. The 
essential element of vitality was wanting ; and however 
much I had been taken at the outset with the primitive 
aspect of society, and the quiet, dreamy habits of the people, 
I was now more than ever convinced that life, to be relished, 
must be earnest, and that its highest and keenest enjoyments 
are involved in what is often called its " warfare." 

Three days after my arrival in Granada, I embarked at 
" Los Cocos," in a bongo loaded with Brazil wood, for San 
Juan. We dawdled, day after day, along the northern shore 
of the lake, after the immemorial fashion amongst the mari- 
neros, stopped again at El Pedernal," and the Bahita de San 
Miguel, and on the morning of the sixth day reached San 
Carlos. My rotund friend, the Commandante, arrayed in a 
new uniform, and reinstated in his old quarters, welcomed me 
with all the warmth of his genial temper ; and again I was 
installed, amongst the pigeons and chickens, in his house on 
the promontory. 

I was impatient to proceed, but we did not get away until 
the sun was setting behind Solentenami, throwing a flood 
of radiance over the lake, while the river flowed dark and 
silent beneath the shadows of the dense forests on its banks. 
The descent of the San Juan is an easy matter compared 
with the ascent. It is usually accomplished in two days ; 
but on the morning of our second day, our patron Antonio, 
in an attempt to "shoot" the central channel of the Eapids 
of Machuca, ran us upon the rocks, where we remained for 
thirty hours, until relieved by the united crews of sis bongos, 
which, in ascending and descending, had, in the meantime, 
reached the rapids. Our situation during this time was 
perilous in the extreme, and had not our boat been new and 
staunch, it must inevitably have gone to pieces. After the 



SAN JUAJST, AGAIN. 635 

first excitement was over, I amused myself by shooting alli- 
gators, in their attempts to ascend the rapids. A dozen of 
their ngly heads might be seen above the water at the same 
moment. By keeping in the eddies, they contrive to get up, 
but it is a long process for them, and requires an entire day. 

San Juan had undergone very little change since my 
previous visit. My friend, the Consul General, had gone 
liome, and the supreme authority was vested in a little man 
named Green, one of those who, in conjunction with McDon- 
ald, "Walker & Co., had invented the Mosquito Kingdom ! 
The two wan policemen were also gone ; one had absconded 
with a quantity of the Consul's papers, and the other, I be- 
lieve, had died. Their place was now filled by a dozen 
negroes from Jamaica, not particularly prepossessing in their 
exteriors, or agreeable in their manners. Captain Shepherd 
still swung in his hammock, clinging tenaciously to his 
parchment grants ; and Monsieur Sigaud, upright, honest- 
hearted Frenchman, was my host. His titled countryman, 
the Viscomte, oblivious of slaughtered pigs, • had made his 
peace with the English authorities, and in conjunction with 
a German Jew, of doubtful antecedents, had now the control 
of the Custom House. 

There was a large party of Americans in San Juan. They 
had brought the news of the ratification of the Clayton and 
Bulwer treaty, and the people were ecstatic under the be- 
lief that they were thereby to be relieved from British rule. 
But Dr. Green cooled their ardor by producing a letter from 
the Foreign office, in which the treaty was interpreted to be 
an implied if not an express recognition of the British es- 
tablishments on the coast, by the American Government. 

The British steamer Dee arrived in port the morning aftei 
my arrival. She stayed but a single day, and on the 26th of 
June, .1850, I bade farewell to the shores of Nicaragua.' 

' I found in San Juan the crew of an American vessel, wrecked a short 



636 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 

Twenty-four hours brouglit us in sight of Ohagres, where, 
beneath the old Castle of San Felipe, the " Greorgia" and 
"Philadelphia," with steam already up, were taking on 
board their last passengers, for the United States. I had 
barely time to get my baggage on board the former, before 
the anchor was lifted, and we were under way, "homeward 
bound." A brief and pleasant passage of eight days to New 
York, offered a striking contrast to our month's imprisonment 
in the little "Frances," outward bound. The captain was 
right ; that voyage to San Juan was really her " thirty- 
seventh and last," she was condemned on her return, and 
has probably gone " where all good vessels go." Peace to 
her venerable timbers ! 

The preceding rapid narrative of incidents connected with 
my residence in Nicaragua might be greatly extended ; but 
so far as my principal purpose of conveying some idea of the 
geography, scenery, resources, and antiquities of the country, 
and of the character, habits, and actual situation of its peo- 
ple, is concerned, it is probably unnecessary to add anything 
to what I have already said. A few words in respect to the 
Government and present constitution of the country may 
hot be unacceptable, and with these I shall close this portion 
of my work, and pass to the consideration of other, but col- 
lateral, subjects. 

The dissolution of the Federal Eepublic of Central Ameri- 
ca, in 1838, left the various States which had composed it in a 

time previously, in the vicinity of that port. They had barely escaped 
with their hves. As there was no American Consul to provide for their 
return home, I proposed some arrangement to the commander of the 
" Dee" for conveying them to Chagres. But he cut the matter short by 
offering them all a free passage. I have had but few opportunities, in this 
narrative, of saying good things of our English cousins in Central Amer- 
ica; and I have therefore the more pleasure in mentioning this incident, 
illustrating the honorable reputation for generosity enjoyed by the British 
sailor. 



CONSTITUTION OF NICAKAGUA. 637 

singular and anomalous position. Some of tliem still adhered 
to the idea of nationality, but could not disguise the fact 
that the Federation no longer existed. Under those circum- 
stances, thej severally assumed the powers and responsi- 
bilities of independent sovereignties. Their respective con- 
stitutions, framed to conform to the federal system, now re- 
quired to be altered to suit their new conditions. The Gov- 
ernment of Nicaragua convened a Constituent Assembly for 
that specific purpose, which, on the 12th of November 1838, 
proclaimed a new constitution. It was accepted in due form 
by the people, and has since constituted the fundamental law 
of the State. 

This instrument is thoroughly republican in its provisions. 
It provides that the Executive Power shall be vested in an 
officer styled the " Supreme Director," who is elected directly 
by popular vote, for the term of two years, but is ineligible 
for two consecutive terms. He must be a native of Central 
America, a resident for five years in the State, and have at- 
tained the age of thirty years. The legislative power is 
vested in an Assembly, composed of a Senate and House of 
Eepresentatives. The Senate consists of two members from 
each of the six districts into which the State is divided ; they 
must possess all the qualifications of the Supreme Director, 
besides actual property to the value of $1000. They hold 
their offices for four years, and are so classified that the term 
of office of one-fourth of the number expires annually. 
They are not eligible beyond two consecutive terms, nor can 
any ecclesiastic be elected to their body. The Eepresenta- 
tives are apportioned on the basis of every twenty thousand 
inhabitants. They must have attained twenty-five years of 
age, have resided one year in the State, and may be either 
secular or ecclesiastic. They are eligible for only two con- 
secutive terms. No officer in the employ of the Government 
can be elected to either branch of the Assembly ; nor can 
any member accept a public appointment>. The acts of this 



638 NICAEAGUA — NARRATIVE. 

Assembly require a vote of two-tkirds of eacli brancli, and 
the approval of tlie Supreme Director, in order to have the 
force of law. All males of the age of twenty years, born 
in the country, are electors. Exceptions are made in favor 
of married males and persons who have obtained a scientific 
degree or acquired a liberal profession. These secure the 
privileges of electors at the age of eighteen years. All per- 
sons convicted of criminal offences, who traffic in slaves or 
are privy to such traffic, or who accept employment, or 
titles, or pensions, from other Grovernments, forfeit their 
citizenship. This right is also suspended in certain cases, 
one of which is rather extraordinary. An individual who 
accepts the position of personal servant to another, is inca- 
pable, for the time being, of exercising his political privi- 
leges. 

The rights of the citizen are defined to be "Liberty, 
Equality, Security of Life and Property, all of which are in- 
separable and inalienable, and inherent in the nature of 
man." Their preservation is declared to be the primary 
object of all society and government. "Every man is free, 
and can neither sell himself nor be sold by others." And 
although the Catholic religion is recognized by the State, 
and protected by the Government, yet all other religions are 
tolerated, and their free and public exercise guarantied. 
Entire liberty of speech and the freedom of the press are 
also guarantied, but individuals are subject to arraignment 
for their abuse. The right of petition, the principle of the 
inviolability of domicil, the security of seal, etc., etc., are 
recognized in their full extent, and are placed beyond the 
reach of the legislative or administrative powers. 



END OF NARRATIYE. 



APPENDIX. 



CHAPTBE I. 

NICARAGUA: BOUNDARIES, TOPOGRAPHY, LAKES, RIVERS, PORTS, CLIMATE, 
POPULATION, PRODUCTIONS, MINES, ETC., ETC. 

ITiCARAGUA, while it remained under the Spanish crown, constituted 
one of the provinces of the ancient Audiencia or Captain-Creneralcy, some- 
times called the kingdom of Gruatemala, in which were also included the 
provinces of Costa Rica, Honduras, San Salvador, and G-uatemala.^ These 
threw off their allegiance to Spain in 1821, and in 1823 united in a con- 
federation called the " RepubHc of Central America," which, however, in 
consequence of internal dissensions, was dissolved in 1839. Since that 
time, the several States have asserted and exercised their original sove- 
reign powers as distinct republics. Several attempts have been made, at 
brief intervals, to revive the confederation, in whole or part,- but without 
success, owing to the irreconcilable jealousies of the different States. A 
kind of understanding, almost amounting to a union, has nevertheless con- 
tinued to exist between the three central States, Nicaragua, San Salva- 
dor, and Honduras, which are distinguished as Liberal and Repubhcan, 
while Costa Rica and Guatemala, in the pohtical classifications of these 
countries, are denominated Servile or MonarchicaL 

The boundaries of Nicaragua are those which pertained to it as a prov- 
ince, except in so far as they have been modified by subsequent treaties 
and concessions. As now defined, they are as follows : on the east, the 
Caribbean Sea, from Cape G-racias a Dios at the mouth of the Rio Wanka 
or Segovia, in lat. 15° N., and Ion. 83° 12' W., southward to the port of 
San Juan, at the mouth of the river of the same name. 

On the south, the Une of separation fi-om Costa Rica, as fixed by a con- 

1 Tlie large province, now State of Chiapas, included in the Republic of Mexico, also 
belonged to the old kingdom of Guatemala. After the independence, it was appropriated 
by Mexico, which, under the rule of Iturhide, endeavored to annex to itself the whole of 
Central America. 



y 



640 APPENDIX. 

vention dated. April 15th, 1858, starts from Punta de Castilla, or Punta 
Arenas on the south shore of the harbor of San Juan, and thence follows 
the right bank of the river San Juan to within three miles of the old fort 
known as Castillo Viejo. At this point the line falls back two miles from 
the river, preserving that distance from the stream to the point whence it 
issues from Lake Nicaragua, following along the southern shore of that 
lake, at an equal distance inland, until it strikes the river Sapoa, flowing 
into the lake, and thence due west to the Bay of Salinas, on the Pacific. 

On the west, the Pacific ocean, from the centre of the Bay of Salinas 
to the mouth of the Rio Negro, in the Bay of Ponseca, embracing about 
one-third of the coast-line of the Bay. 

On the north, separating it from Honduras, a line following the Rio 
Negro from its mouth on the Bay of Ponseca, to its source in the moun- 
tains of Nueva Segovia, following the crest of the dividing ridge of the 
same to the head of the Rio de la Puerta ; thence, due east, to the Rio 
Ooco, Wanks, or Segovia, and down that river to its mouth at Cape 
Grracias a Dios. 

The State is therefore embraced entirely between 83° 20' and 87° 30', 
(6° 20' and 10° 30' from Washington,) west longitude, and between 10° 
45' and 15° of north latitude ; and has an area of about 50,000 square 
miles, or about an equal extent of territory with the New England States, 
exclusive of Vermont and New Hampshire. 

A claim to a considerable part of this territory, embracing the entire 
Atlantic coast, and extending indefinitely inland, was set up, some years 
ago, by Great Britain, on behalf of the suppositious " Bang of the Mos- 
quitos ;" but there is now (1859) good reason for believing that the fiction 
of a Mosquito sovereignty wiU soon be abandoned, and the Mosquito Indians 
placed, by common consent, under the government of Nicaragua, with the 
sole reservation of their proprietary rights, or rights of occupation.^ 

Placed on a narrow isthmus between the two oceans, its ports opening 
to Europe on one hand, and to Asia on the other, midway between the 
northern and southern continents of America, Nicaragua seems to realize 
the ancient idea of the geographical centre of the world. These geograph- 
ical advantages are however, much heightened, and rendered especially 
interesting and important, from the interior and topographical features of 
the country, which are supposed to afford facilities for water communica- 
tion between the seas, superior to those of any other part of the continent. 

1 For an exposition of the nature and extent of British pretensions, as also the political 
condition of the Mosquito Shore, and an account of the country and its people, see Chapter 
" Mosquito Shore," in " States of Central America," etc., pp. 628-663, and " Adventures on 
the Mosquito Shore" Note A. 



TOPOGRAPHICAL FEATURES. 641 

These features are principally determined by two ranges of mountains f 
which traverse the State in a direction nearly due north-west and south- 
east One of these, which may be called the volcanic or Pacific coast 
range, starts in the high lands of Quesaltenango in Gruatemala, and ex- 
tending through San Salvador and Nicaragua, terminates in the great 
mountain group or nucleus of Costa Eica. It follows the general direc- 
tion of the coast, sometimes rising in lofty volcanic cones, but generally 
sustaimng the character of a high ridge, subsiding in places into low hills and 
plains of slight elevation. It preserves a nearly uniform distance from the 
sea of from ten to twenty mUes; and, consequently, there are no consid- 
erable streams falling from it into the Pacific. It seems to have been the 
principal hne of volcanic action, and in Nicaragua is marked by the volca- 
noes of Coseguina, El Viejo, Santa Clara, Telica, Axusco, Las Pilas, Orota, 
Momotombo, Masaya, Mombacho, Ometepec, and Madeira, and by numer- 
ous extinct craters, surrounded by vast beds of lava and deposits of scoriae. 
The second, or principal mountain range, the great back-bone of the con- 
tinent and the true Cordilleras, enters the State firom Honduras, in the 
department of Nueva Segovia, and extends due south-east, until it strikes 
the San Juan river at a point about fifty mUes above its mouth. It sends 
out numerous spurs or dependent ranges towards the Atlantic, between 
which flow down the many considerable streams that intersect what is 
called the Mosquito Shore. 

Between these two ranges of mountains is formed a great interior 
basin, not far from three hundred miles long by one hundred wide, in the 
centre of which are the broad and beautiful lakes of Nicaragua and Man- 
agua — the characteristic and most important physical features of the coun- 
try. These lakes receive the waters which flow down fi-om the moun- 
tains on either hand, and discharge them through a single outlet, the river 
San Juan, flowing through a narrow break in the Cordilleras, into the 
Atlantic. Some of the streams falling into these lakes fi^om the north are 
of considerable size, and furnish a supply of water, in excess of evapora- 
tion, which could not be sensibly affected by drains for artificial purposes. 

Lake Managua is a beautiful sheet of water, not far fi-om fifty miles 
long, by fi^om thirty to thirty-five wide, and with a depth of water over 
the greater part of its area, varying from two to ten and fifteen, and even 
forty fathoms in deptL It approaches at one point to within fifteen miles 
of the Pacific, fi:om which it is separated, on the south, by the volcanic 
coast-range already described, which here takes the form of detached 
hills, rising on a ridge of moderate elevation. But between its northern 
extremity and the sea, there are only the magnificent plains of Leon and 
El Conejo, separating which is a hne of volcanoes, rising firom the plain 

41 



642 APPENDIX. 

/ with all the regularity of the pyramids. The scenery which borders the 
lake is unsurpassed in' beauty and grandeur. Upon its northern and east- 
ern shores, lifting their blue, rugged peaks one»*above the other, are the 
mountains of Matagalpa, merging into those of Segovia, rich in metallic 
veins. Upon the south and west are broad and fertile slopes and level 
plains, covered vpith luxuriant verdure, and of almost unl^nited produc- 
tiveness. The volcano of Momotombo, Uke a giant warder, stands out 
boldly into the lake, its bare and blackened summit, which no man has 
ever reached, covered with a Ught wreath of smoke, attesting the contin- 
ued existence of those internal fires which have seamed its steep sides 
with burning floods, and which stOl send forth hot and sulphurous springs 
at its base. Within the lake itself rises the regular cone of Momotombita, 
so regular that it seems a work of art, covered with a dense forest, under 
the shadows and within the deep recesses of which, frayed by the storms 
of ages, stand the rude and frowning statues of the gods of aboriginal 
superstition, raised there long before European feet trod the soil of Amer- 
ica, and to which the mind of the Christianized Indian still reverts vsdth a 
mysterious reverence. 

The town or city of Santiago de Managua, which gives its name to the 
lake, and which is the place of meeting of the Legislative Chambers 
of the State, is situated on the south-western shore of the lake. The city 
of Leon was first buUt on the shore of the north-western extremity of the 
lake, at a place now called Moabita, but it was subsequently abandoned 
for the present site, in the midst of the great plain of Marabios, or Leon. 
From this circumstance, the lake in question is sometimes called Lake 
Leon. It was called by the aboriginal inhabitants of the country, Aya- 
gualo. 

/-"""Lake Managua has an outlet at its south-eastern extremity, called Eio 
Tipitapa, connecting it with Lake Nicaragua, through the Estero de Pan- 
aloya. This outlet, during rainy seasons of severity, passes a consider- 
able body of water ; but it is often completely dry, the evaporation from 
the surface of the lake exceeding the supply of water from its tributaries. 

', The difierence in level between the two lakes, at average stages of water, 
J3 twenty-eight feet six inches. 

Lake Nicaragua, the ancient Cociiolca, is nevertheless the great feature 
■of the country, and is unquestionably, in all respects, one of the finest 
bodies of water in the world, and second to none in the variety and beauty 
of its scenery. It is about one hundred and twenty miles in greatest 
length, by sixty in greatest, and forty in average breadth. On its south- 
ern shore, near the head of the lake, stands the ancient city of Granada, 
lately the rival of Leon, and once the most important commercial town in 



LAKE NICARAGUA 



643 



the republic. A few miles below Grauada, and projecting boldly into the 
lake, is the extinct volcano of Mombacho, 5,000 feet in height. Studding 
the lake, at its base, is a cluster of innumerable small islands, called Los 
Corales, of volcanic origin, rising in the form of cones to the height of 
from twenty to one himdred feet, and covered vrith verdure. On the 
same shore ^th G-ranada, but forty miles distant, is the town of Rivas or 
Nicaragua, the capital of a large, fertile, and comparatively well-culti- 
vated district. Flowing into the lake, at its extreme southern extremity, 
nearly at the same point where the Rio San Juan (the ancient El Desa- 
suadero) commences its course, is the considerable Rio Frio, which has its 
origin near the base of the great volcano of Cartago, in Costa Rica. It 
flows through an unexplored region, inhabited by an unconquered and 
savage tribe of Indians, called Ghiatusos, of whose ferocity the most extra- 
ordinary stories are related. _ 




VOIiCANO OF OMETEPEC, PROM VIRGIN BAY. 

The northern shore of the lake, called Chontales, for the most part is 
undulating, abounding in broad savannahs, well adapted for grazing and 
supporting large herds of cattle. There are a number of considerable 
islands in the lake, the largest of which are El Zapatero, Solentenami, and 
Ometepec. The former two are deserted, but the latter has a consider- 
able population of Indians, of the pure Mexican or Aztec stock. This 



644 APPENDIX. 

island is distinguished by two high, conical mountains or volcanic peaks, 
called respectively Ometepec and Madeira, which are visible from every 
part of the lake, and from a distance of many leagues on the Pacific. The 
name of the island, in the Nahuatl or Mexican language, signifies " two 
mountains," from ome^ two, and tepee, mountain. The water of the lake, 
in most places, shoals very gradually, and it is only at a few points that 
vessels of considerable size may approach the shore. Still, its general 
depth, for all purposes of navigation, is ample, except near its outlet, 
where, for some miles, it does not exceed from five to ten feet. There 
are points, however, where the depth of water is not less than forty fath- 
oms. The prevailing winds on the lake, as indeed of the whole State, are 
fi:om the north-east ; they are, in fact, the Atlantic trades, which here 
sweep entirely across the continent and encountering the conflicting cur- 
rents of air on the Pacific, form those baffling, revolving winds, detested 
by navigators, under the name of Papogayos. "When the winds are strong, 
the waves of the lake become high, and roU in with all the majesty of the 
ocean. At such times, the water is piled up, as it were, on the southern 
shore of the lake, occasionally producing overflows of the low grounds. 
As the trade winds are intermittent, blowing fireshly in the evening, and 
subsiding towards morning, the waters of the lake seem to rise and fall 
accordingly ; and this circumstance gave birth to the notion, entertained 
and promulgated by the ancient chroniclers, that the lake had a regular 
tide, like that of the sea. Some of them imagined, in consequence, that 
it communicated with the ocean by a subterranean channel. As already 
observed, the sole outlet of the great Nicaragua basin, and of the lakes 
iust described, is the river San Juan, debouching into the Caribbean Sea, 
at the now well-known port of San Juan, or G-reytown. This river is a 
magnificent stream, but its capacities have been greatly exaggerated, as 
will be seen in the paragraphs referring to the proposed ship-canal. It 
flows firom tte south-eastern extremity of Lake Nicaragua, nearly due 
east to the ocean. With its windings, it is one hundred and nineteen 
mUes long. The body of water which passes through it varies greatly at 
different seasons of the year. It is, of course, greatest during what is 
called the " rainy season," — that is to say, from May to October. To this 
variation, in some degree, may be ascribed the wide difference in the 
statements of the depth and capacity of the river, made by different ob- 
servers. Several considerable streams enter the San Juan, the largest of 
which are the San Carlos and Serapiqui, both rising in the high lands of 
Costa Eica. The streams flowing in from the north are comparatively 
small, indicating that the mountains are not far distant in that direction, 
and that upon that side the valley is narrow. The Serapiqui is ascended 



RIVER SAN JUAN. ^ 645 

by canoes to a point about twenty miles above its mouth, wbere com- 
mences the road, or rather mule-path, to San Jose, the capital of Costa 
Eica. ; About one-third of the way from the lake to the ocean, on the 
south bank of the river, are the ruins of the old fort or castle of San Juan, 
captured by the Enghsh in 1780. The expedition against it was com- 
manded by Colonel Poison, with Captain, afterward Lord Nelson, as sec- 
ond in command. Of two hundred men under Nelson, drawn from his 
vessel, the Hinchenbrook, but ten returned to the coast. At one time, 
besides this fort, another at the head of the river (San Carlos), and a tMrd 
at its mouth, the Spaniards kept up not less than twelve military stations 
on its banks. The width of the river varies from one hundred to four 
hundred yards, and its depth from two to twenty feet. It is interrupted 
by five rapids, viz., Eapides del Toro, del Castillo, de los Valos, del Mico, 
and Machuca. The Machuca rapids are the largest, and, in many respects, 
the worst in the river. For the distance of nearly half a mile, the stream 
is spread over a wide and crooked bed, full of large rocks projecting above 
the surface, between which the water jrushes with the greatest violence. 
They are considered dangerous by the native boatmen, who are only 
enabled to ascend them by keeping close to the northern shore, where the 
current is weakest, and the bed of the river least obstructed. Here the 
bongos, or native boats, are pushed up by main force. The late Transit 
Company lost a number of their small steamers on these rapids, which, 
without great artificial improvement, must remain an insuperable obstacle 
to regular steam navigation on the river. The rapids of El CastiUo are 
short, and deserve rather the name of falls. Here the water pours over 
an abrupt ledge of rocks, falling eight feet in but httle more than the same 
number of yards. Bongos are unloaded here, and the empty boats 
trucked past by men stationed here for the purpose. The steamers of the 
Transit Company did not attempt to pass these rapids ; the passengers &n6r 
merchandize being transferred by means of a tram-road to vessels above. 
The remaining rapids, although formidable obstacles to navigation, do not 
require a special description. The banks of the San Juan for twenty miles 
from the lake, and for about the same distance above its mouth, are low 
and swampy, Uned with palms, canes, and a variety of long coarse grass 
called gamahte. Elsewhere the banks are generally firm, in some places 
rocky, from six to twenty feet high, and above the reach of overflows. They 
are everywhere covered with a thick forest of large trees, draped all over 
with lianes or woodbines, which, with the thousand varieties of tropical 
plants, form dense walls of verdure on both sides of the stream. The soil 
of the river- valley seems uniformly fertile, and capable of producing abund- 
antly all tropical staples. Like the Atrato, the San Juan river has formed 



646 



APPENDIX. 



a delta at its mouth, through which it flows for eighteen miles, reaching 
the sea through several channels. The largest of these is the Colorado 
channel, which opens directly into the ocean ; the next in size is that 
which bears the name of the river, and flows into the harbor of San Juan. 
Between the two is a smaller one called Tauro. This delta is a maze of 
low grounds, swamps, creeks, and lagoons, the haunt of the manatua and 
alligator, and the home of innumerable varieties of water-fowl. The port 




PORT OF SASr JUAN DEL SUE — 1854. 



^ 



of San Juan (G-reytown) derives its principal importance from the fact that 
it is the only possible eastern terminus for the proposed inter-oceanic 
canal, by way of the river San Juan and the Nicaraguan lakes. It is small 
but weU protected, easy of entrance and exit, and has a depth of water 
varying from three to five fathoms.^ Upon the Pacific, thei best port of 

1 Late accounts represent that the sea has broken through the sand bank or spit called 
" Punta Arenas," -which forms the outer protection of the harbor, and that the entrance of 
the port is rapidly closing up. So rapidly has this process gone on, that the United States 
■war vessel " Susquehanna," lying in the harbor, was got out -with difificulty, and only after 
relieving herself of her guns. The British mail steamers, it is also stated, now find it impos- 
sible to enter, and apprehensions are ente^ained that the harbor is entirely ruined. 



PORTS AND CLIMATE. 647 

the republic is that of Ealejo, anciently Possession, which is capacious and 
secure, but difficult of entrance. The Uttle bay of San Juan del Sur, 
which was used as the Pacific port of the late Transit Company, is small 
and insecure, and scarcely deserves the name of harbor. The same may 
be said of the so-called ports of Brito and Tamaranda. A good port is 
said to exist on SaUnas Bay. 

The chmate of Nicaragua, except among the mountains of Chontales 
and Segovia, is essentially tropical, but nevertheless considerably modified 
by a variety of circumstances. The absence of high mountains toward 
the Atlantic, and the broad expanse of its lakes, permit the trade-winds 
here to sweep entirely across the continent, and to give to the country a 
degree of ventilation agxeeable to the senses and favorable to health. 
The region toward the Atlantic is unquestionably warmer, more humid, 
and less salubrious than that of the interior, and of the country bordering 
on the Pacific. The Nicaragua basin proper, and within which the bulk 
of its population is concentrated, has two distinctly marked seasons, the 
wet and the dry, the first of winch is called summer, the latter winter. 
The wet season commences in May, and lasts until November, during 
which time, but usually near its commencement and its close, rains of 
some days' duration are of occasional occurrence, and showers are com- 
mon. The latter do not often happen except late in the afternoon, or 
during the night. They are seldom of long continuance, and often days 
and weeks elapse, during what is called the rainy season, without a cloud 
obscuring the sky. Throughout this season, the verdure and the crops, 
which, during the dry season, become sere and withered, appear in full 
luxuriance. The temperature is very equable, differing a little according to 
locaUty, but preserving a very nearly uniform range of from 78° to 88° of 
Fahrenheit, occasionally sinking to 70° in the night and rising to 90° in 
the afternoon. During the dry season, from November to May, the tein- 
perature is less, the nights positively cool, and the winds occasionally 
chilling. The sky is cloudless, and trifling showers fall at rare intervals. 
The fields become parched and dry, and the cattle are driven to the 
borders of the streams for pasturage, while in the towns the dust becomes 
almost insufferable. It penetrates everywhere, sifting through the crev- 
ices of the tiled roofs in showers, and sweeping in clouds through the un- 
glazed windows. This season is esteemed the healthiest of the year. Its 
effect is practically that of a northern winter, checking and destroying 
that rank and ephemeral vegetation which, constantly renewed where the 
rains are constant as at Panama, forms dense, dank jungles, the birth- 
places and homes of malaria and death. For the year commencing Sep- 
tember, 1850, and ending September, 1851, the thermometer, at the town 



^ 



648 



APPENDIX. 



of Eivas gave the foUo-wing results : — ^Mean highest, 86° 45 of Fahrenheit ; 
mean lowest, 71° 15 ; mean average for the year, 77° 42 ; mean range, 
15° 3. The amount of rain which fell from May to November inclusive, 
was 90.3 inches ; from December to April inclusive, 7.41 inches ; total for 
the year, 97.7 inches. None fell in February, but 26.64 inches fell in July, 
and 17.86 inches in October. 

Politically, Nicaragua is divided into five Departments, each of which 
has one or more Judicial Districts, as follows : 



DEPAETMENTS. 



CAPITAIB. 



POPTILATION. 



1. Meridional or Eivas 

2. Oriental or G-ranada 

3. Occidental or Leon 

4. Septentrional or Segovia. 



.Eivas 

.Grranada. .. 

.Leon 

.Segovia.. .. 
.Matagalpa . 



.20,000 
.95,000 
.90,000 
.12,000 
.40,000 



Total 25T,000. 



The population here given is the result arrived at, in round numbers, 
of a census attempted in 1846. It was only partially successful, as a 
large part of the people supposed that it was preliminary to some military 
conscription or tax levy. Making due allowances for deficiencies in the 
census of that year, and for increase since, we may estimate the actual 
population of the State, in round numbers, at 300,000, divided, approxi- 
mately, as follows : 

Wtites 30,000 

Negroes 18,000 

Indians 96,000 

Mixed... 156,000 



Total 300,000.1 



In the census above referred to, the following were given as the ap- 
proximate populations of the principal towns of the State : 



Leon, including Subtiaba 30,000 

Chinandega 11,000 

Chinandega Viejo 3,000 

Eealejo 1,000 

Chichigalpa 2,800 

Posultega 900 

Telica 1,000 

Somotillo 2,000 

Villa Nueva 1,000 

Pueblo Knevo 2,900 



Nagarote 1,800 

Souci 2,500 

Managua 12,000 

Masaya 16,000 

Granada 10,000 

Nicaragua 8,000 

Segovia 8,000 

Matagalpa 2,000 

Acoyapa 500 



1 Gteneral Miguel Gonzalez Sarabia, governor of Nicaragua in 1823, wrote a brief account 
of the province, wbich was published in Guatemala in 1824. He estimated the population 



MODES OF LIFE. 649 

It is a singular fact that the females greatly exceed the males in num- 
ber. In the Department Occidental, according to the census, the propor- 
tions were as three to two. It is difficult to account for this disparity, 
except by supposing it to have been the result of the civil wars which, for 
some years previously, had afflicted that portion of the State. It should 
nevertheless be observed, that throughout all parts of Central America 
there is a considerable predominance of females over males. 
^ Most of the people of Nicaragua hve in towns or villages, many of them 
Agoing two, four and six miles daily to labor in their fields, starting before 
day and returning at night. Their plantations, haciends, hattos, huertas, 
ranchos, and chacras are scattered pretty equally over the country, and 
are often reached by paths so obscure as almost wholly to escape the no- 
tice of travelers, who, passing through what appears to be a continuous 
forest from one town to another, are Uable to faU into the error of sup- 
posing the country to be almost wholly without inhabitants. The dwell- 
ings of the greater part of the people are simple huts of canes, thatched 
with grass or palm leaves ; many of them open at the sides, and with no 
floors except the bare earth. These fragile structures, so equable and 
mild is the climate, are adequate to afford such protection as the natives 
are accustomed to regard as necessary. The dwellings of the middle 
classes are more pretending; the canes are plastered over and white- 
washed, and they have tUed roofs and other improvements, while those 
of the large proprietors are often spacious and comfortable, not to say ele- 
gant, approaching nearer to our ideas of habitations for human beings. A 
considerable proportion of the dwelUngs in the towns and cities are of the 
ruder character above described ; the residences of the wealthier inhabit- 
ants, however, are buUt of adobes, sometimes of two stories, inclosing large 
courts, and entered under archways often imposing and beautiful. The 
court yards are generally filled with shade trees, usually the orange, mak- 
mg the corridors on which all the rooms open exceedingly pleasant loung- 
ing places for the occupants and their visitors. 

The natural resources of Nicaragua are immense, but they have been 
very imperfectly developed. The portion of land brought under cultiva- 
tion is relatively small, but ample for the support of its population. There 
is no difficulty in increasing the amount to an indefinite extent, for the 
forests are easily removed, and genial nature yields rich harvests to the 
husbandman. There are many cattle estates, particularly in Chontales, 

of the province at that time, at 174,200, and gave it as his judgment that 70,000 -were In- 
dians, 70,000 Ladinos or mixed, and the remainder, or 34,200, -whites. The latter he con- 
sidered to he diminishing in numbers, and such, he adds, "is their general tendency." — 
Bosquejo Politico Estadistico de Nicaragita, p. 8. 



650 APPENDIX. 



Da, and Segovia, which cover wide tracts of country • some of 
these have not less than 10,000 or 15,000 head of cattle each. The cattle 
are generally fine, quite equal to those of the United States. 

Among the staples of the State, and which are produced in great per- 
fection, are cacao, sugar, cotton, coffee, indigo, tobacco, rice, and maize 
or Indian corn. 

Sugar. The sugar-cane grown in Nicaragua is indigenous, and very 
different from the Asiatic cane cultivated in the West Indies and the 
United States. It is said to be equally productive with the foreign spe- 
cies ; the canes are softer and more slender, and contain more and stronger 
juice, in proportion to their size, than the Asiatic variety. Two crops 
(under favorable circumstances three crops) are taken annually, and the 
cane requires replanting but once in twelve or fourteen years. The best 
kind of sugar produced from the sugar estates is nearly as white as the 
refined sugar of commerce, the crystals being large and hard. The greater 
part of the supply for ordinary consumption is what is called chancaca, 
and is the juice of the cane merely boiled till it crystallizes, without being 
cleared of the molasses. A considerable quantity of this was formerly ex- 
ported to Peru and elsewhere in South America. It is stated that the 
chancaca may be produced, ready for sale, at $1 25 per quintal (lOli lbs. 
English). The most profitable part of the sugar establishment is the 
manufacture of " aguardiente" a species of rum. It is impossible to say, 
in the absence of data, what amount of sugar is manufactured in Nica- 
ragua ; it is perhaps enough to know that it may be produced indefinitely. 
The export has been estimated at 200,000 lbs. 

Ootton. Cotton of a superior quaUty to that of Brazil may be produced 
in any quantity in Nicaragua. " As many as 50,000 bales, of 300 pounds 
each," says Dunlop, "of clean pressed cotton have been exported fi-om 
this State in a single year ; the cultivation is, however, at present (1846) 
at a very low ebb." Considerable quantities are nevertheless raised, 
which are manufactured by the natives, but chiefly by the Indians, into 
hammocks, sail-cloth, and ordinary clothing. The domestic cloth is coarse, 
but compact, neat, and durable. 

Mr. Baily observes of the cotton of Nicaragua, " that it has already a 
liigh standard in the Manchester market, and offers a splendid speculation 
to agriculturists, if a good port of export on the Atlantic shall be estab- 
Ushed." 

Coffee. Coffee of an excellent quality, and probably equal to any in the 
world, may also be produced indefinitely in this repubhc ; but for the 
reason that hitherto it has been exceedingly difficult to get it to a market, 
it is not very extensively cultivated. The few plantations which exist are 



COFFEE. — CACAO. — INDIGO. 651 

very flourishing, and the proprietors find them profitable. The limited 
cultivation is perhaps due to the circumstance that chocolate is the com- 
mon beverage of the people ; and coffee, never having become an article 
of trade or export, has consequently been neglected. There is no reason 
why as good cofiee may not be produced here as in Costa Eica ; and the 
Costa Rican cofiee, when offered in good condition in England, commands 
as high a price as any other. As, however, it is usually shipped by way 
of Cape Horn, it often suffers from the protracted voyage. It has, never- 
theless, been the almost exclusive source of wealth in Costa Eica. The 
crop of 1857 amounted to 10,000,000 pounds, whicli, at $9 per cwt., (the 
average price delivered on the coast) gives $900,000 as the return — a 
considerable sum for a State of 100,000 inhabitants, and where the culture 
has been introduced but twenty years. The cost of production, per 
quintal (101| pounds,) at the present rate of wages, (twenty-five cents 
per day) is about $2 50. If the attention of the people of Nicaragua 
should be seriously directed to the production of coffee, it would prove a 
source of great profit. 

Cacao. Cacao, only equalled by that of Soconosco, on the coast of 
Guatemala, (which was once monopolized for the use of the royal estab- 
lishment of Spain,) is cultivated in considerable quantities. It is, however, 
an article of general consumption among the inhabitants ; and conse- 
quently, commands so high a price that it will not bear exportation, even 
though it could be obtained in requisite quantities. About aU that finds 
its way abroad goes in the form of presents from one friend to another. 
There is no reason why cacao should not become an article of large export, 
and a source of great wealth. The obvious cause why its production is 
not greater is, the length of time and great outlay required in getting a 
cacao plantation into paying operation. Few have now the requisite cap- 
ital ; and these few are in too feverish a state, in consequence of the dis- 
tracted condition of pubUc affairs, to venture upon any investment. Under 
a stable condition of things, and by the opening of a steady and adequate 
channel to market, the cultivation of cacao vdll rise to be of the first im- 
portance. The trees give two principal crops in the year. It is sold from 
$15 to $20 the quintal, whUe the GruayaquU is worth but $5 or $6. 

Indigo. Indigo was formerly cultivated to a considerable extent, but 
has of late years much fallen off ; and there are a number of fine indigo 
estates in various parts of the republic which have been quite given up, 
with all their appurtenances, by their respective proprietors. The plant 
cultivated for the manufacture of indigo is the jiquiUU (mdigofera disp&rma) 
an indigenous plant which produces indigo of a very excellent quality. 
The indigo of Nicaragua is of very superior quality, and its export once 



652 APPENDIX. 

came up to 5,000 bales of 150 lbs. each. It is impossible to say what the 
export is at present ; probably not more than 1,000 or 2,000 bales. Un- 
der the government of Spain, the State of San Salvador produced from 
8,000 to 10,000 bales annually. A piece of ground equal to two acres 
generally produces about 100 to 120 pounds, at a cost of not far from $30 
to $40, including the cost of clearing the field and all other expenses. 

Tobacco. A large amount of tobacco is used in Nicaragua, all of which 
is produced in the country. A considerable quantity is shipped to Cali- 
fornia. It may be cultivated to any desirable extent, and is of a very 
good quality, but is not equal to that of San Salvador and Honduras. 

Maize flourishes luxuriantly, and three crops may be raised on the same 
ground annually. It is essentially the " staff of life" in aU Central Amer- 
ica, being the material of which the eternal tortiUa is composed. The 
green stalks, sacafe, constitute about the only fodder for horses and cattle 
in the country, and is supplied daily in aU the principal towns. The 
abundance of this grain may be inferred firom the fact that a fanega of 
Leon (equivalent to about five bushels EngUsh) of shelled com, in 1849, 
commanded in the capital but one dollar. 

WTieatj and aU other cereal grains, as well as the fruits of temperate cli- 
mates, flourish in the elevated districts of Segovia, in the northern part of 
the republic, bordering on Honduras, where, it is said, except in the ab- 
sence of snow, httle difference is to be observed, in respect to climate, 
from the southern parts of the United States. 

Hice is abundant in Nicaragua, and is extensively used, and, hke maize, 
may be easily cultivated to any extent desirable. It is sold at from $1 50 
to $2 per cwt. 

In short, nearly all the edibles and fruits of the tropics are produced 
naturally, or may be cultivated in great perfection. Plantains, bananas, 
beans, chile, tomatoes, bread-fruit, arrow-root, ocra, citrons, oranges, limes, 
lemons, pine- apples (the delicious white G-uayaquU, as well as the yellow 
variety), mamays, anonas or chirimoyas, guavas, cocoa-nuts, and a hun- 
dred other varieties of plants and fruits. Among the vegetable produc- 
tions of commerce may be mentioned sarsaparilla, anoto, aloes, ipecac- 
uanha, ginger, vaniUa, cowhage, copal, gum arable, copaiva, caoutchouc, 
dragon's blood, and vanglo, or oil-plant. Among the valuable trees: 
mahogany, log-wood, Brazil-wood, Hgnum-vit^, fiistic, yellow Sanders, 
pine (on the heights), dragon's blood tree, silk-cotton tree, oak, copal 
tree, cedar, button- wood, iron- wood, rose- wood, Nicaragua wood, cala- 
bash, etc., etc. Of these. Brazil-wood, cedar, and mahogany are found in 
the forests, in what may be termed inexhaustible quantities. The cedar 
is a large tree, like the red cedar of the North in nothing except color and 



CATTLE. — MINES AND MINERALS 653 

durability ; in solidity, and other respects, it closely resembles the black 
waJnut. Five or six cargoes of Brazil-wood were exported from Kealejo 
yearly, and a larger quantity from San Juan. A quantity of cedar plank 
is also exported to South America. 

The raising of cattle and the production of cheese is a most important 
item in the actual resources of Nicaragua. The cheese is for common 
consumption, and great quantities are used. Large droves of cattle are 
annually sent to the other States, where they command fair prices. 
About 35,000 or 40,000 hides are exported annually. 

The northern districts of Nicaragua, Segovia, Matagalpa, and Ohontales, 
adjoin the great metalliferous mountain region of Honduras, with which 
they correspond in cUmate, and with which they are geologically con- 
nected. They are rich in gold, silver, copper, iron, and lead, the ores of 
which ai-e abundant and readily worked. Under the crown, the mines of 
these districts yielded large returns, but they have now greatly dimin- 
ished ; and, unless taken up by foreign enterprise, capital, and intelhgence, 
are hkely to fall into insignificance. No data exist for estimating the 
present value of their produce, but it probably does not exceed $250,000 
annually. 

The mines most celebrated are those in the vicinity of the towns of 
DepUto and Maqueliso, in Segovia. There are here more than a hundred 
vetas or veins, bearing different names. Most of them yield their ores in 
the form of sulphurets, bromides, and chlorides. One, " El Coquimbo," 
gives argentiferous sulphuret of antimony — a rare occurrence. The yield 
varies greatly, ranging from 40 to 1300 ounces to the ton. This mineral 
district is very well watered, abounds in pine and oak timber, produces 
readily wheat, potatoes, and many other of the fruits and grains of higher 
latitudes, and is moreover cool and salubrious. Nearly all of the streams 
to the eastward of the town of Nueva Segovia, falling from the mountains 
of Honduras into the Rio Coco, or Wanks, carry gold in their sands, in 
greater or less quantities. The Indians, and a few adventurers from 
other parts of the State, carry on washings in a small and rude way, and 
consequently, without any great aggregate result. In the neighborhood 
of Matagalpa, on the head waters of the Rio Escondido, there are also 
gold washings, worked in hke manner by the Indians. Here, too, are 
mines of silver, and several rich veins of copper ore, yielding, it is said, 35 
per cent, of the metal, with a fair percentage of silver in combination.^ 

1 An English traveller, named Byam, who seems to have visited Nicaragua for mining pur- 
poses, states that the silver mines which he observed " were fine, broad, but rather irreg- 
ular veins, the ore combined with sulphur and lead. The ore is hard, but clean." The 
copper ores, he informs us, " are almost aU uncombined with sulphur, or any other combi- 



/ 



654 APPENDIX. 

In the district of Chontales, among the mountains separating the waters 
flowing into Lake Nicaragua from those falling into the Rio Escondido, 
the ores of gold are found in abundance. There are numerous evidences 
that the mines were largely worked by the aborigines. The metal occurs 
chiefly in quartz veins. Attempts were made in 1856-57 to introduce 
proper machinery for crushing the rock and extracting the metal, but the 
political condition of the country has been such as to break up and dis- 
courage aU enterprises of this kind. Whenever order shall be perma- 
nently established, Ohontales wiU no doubt command increasmg attention. 

nation wMch requires calcining to be got rid of. They may all be smelted in a common 
blast furnace, with the aid of equal quantities of iron-stone, -which lies in large quantities 
on the surface of aU the hilly country. They are what the Spanish miners call ' metal de 
color,' red and blue oxides and green carbonates, with now and then the brown or pigeon- 
breasted. They cut easily and smoothly with the knife, and yield from twenty-flve to sixty 
per cent. The copper veins are generally vertical, and the larger ones run east and west." 
This writer has the following references to the gold washings of the country : 

" Some adventurers, generally of the very lowest class, both in manners and morals, pro- 
ceed to the auriferous streams, that run through the south part of the Honduras nearest to 
Segovia, for two or three months during the driest part of the year, and when the rains have 
entirely subsided. Their baggage is very light, and easily carried on a donkey or half- 
starved mule, for they only provide each for himself* and his female helpmate a small load 
of Indian corn, barely enough for the pair, some tobacco, a small stone for grinding the com, 
an earthen pan or two, a hatchet, and a small leathern bag to put the gold in when found. 
They also take a few half gourds dried, to wash the earth in, and a grass hammock to sleep 
in, and away they start, driving their animals before them, each man carrying his machete 
or short heavy broad-sword, and some, bows and arrows. The part of the country is almost 
uninhabited, and on their arrival at the different streams, they generally separate, and each 
pair chooses a spot often miles apart, where they commence operations. The first thing is 
to build a ' Eamadji,' or hut of branches, as the name signifies ; but they always select a 
place where two" good-sized trees are near enough together, to enable them to swing their 
hammocks between them. With a few poles and branches with the leaf on, a hut is made in 
two or three hours ; the man then makes a pile of dry wood near at hand, and leaves the 
entire care of the household to the woman, who grinds the corn, and every day makes a few 
cakes, looking like thin pancakes, which are toasted on a flat earthen pan over the wood 
ashes. Their drink is a little maize meal and cacao nut ground together, mixed with water 
and stirred up in a gourd ; and thus the pair vegetate for two or three months, supported by 
the hopes of living well for the remainder of the year. The man is always within sight of 
the hut, in case assistance be wanted in such a wild spot ; and he digs holes into the ground 
near the stream, and after having piled up a heap of earth close to the water, washes it in 
the half gourds, when, after repeated changes of water, and the spot chosen having proved 
a good one, a little fine gold dust is often visible in the gourd. It requires a great deal of 
nicety to balance the gourd backwards and forwards, up and down, and round about, so as 
to get rid of the earth ; and it is still more difficult, at the last washing, to manage to leave 
the gold altogether, at the very end of the remaining deposit, which is generally of a black 
or dark grey color. The grains of gold are often large enough to be picked out after one or 
two washings, and often of a size to be discerned whilst digging, and a man in good luck ' 
may find enough gold in a week to keep him comfortably the whole year; but money easily 
got generally soon goes ; and on the return of the lucky pair to their town, it is too often 
quickly spent in gambling and low debauchery." 



MINES OF CHONTALES. 655 

Its accessibility from the shores of Lake Nicaragua, and through the nav- 
igable waters of the Rio Escondido, point ifc out as the region most favor- 
able for mining establishments in Nicaragua. That portion bordering ou 
the lake is chiefly undulating prairie ground, now only occupied by scat- 
tered cattle estates, but capable of supporting a large population, and fur- 
nishing unbounded supplies. It is stated that deposits of coal resembling 
anthi-acite have been found in Chontales, but the evidence upon that point 
is not conclusive.' 

Some explorations of " Indian Eiver," flowing into the Caribbean Sea 
on the Mosquito Shore, a short distance above the port of San Juan, dis- 
closed the fact that gold exists in that stream, as it does unquestionably in 
all the rivers falling from the mountains of Honduras into the Atlantic. 
It may be questioned, however, if the gold, except in pecuUar localities, 
can be obtained in sufficient quantities to repay the cost and labor of ob- 
taining it.^ 

The methods of mining in Nicaragua, as in every other part of Central 
America, are exceedingly rude, and it is not surprising that the results are 
so often unsatisfactory. The sUver and gold ores are crushed in a basin 
of masonry, in which rises a vertical shaft, driven generally by a horizontal 
water-wheel. This shaft has two arms, to each of which is suspended a 
large stone or boidder. These are the crushers. After the ore is re- 
duced to sufficient fineness, the metal is separated by amalgam ; a long 

1 " The mines of Chontales lie about fifty miles from the sea-coast, one hundred and four- 
teen north-east of the town of Granada, and thirty-six from Lake Nicaragua, and extend 
over an area of about eighty miles. The district is fifteen hundred feet above the Atlantic, 
and surrounded by mountains one or two thousand feet higher. The metal is found in 
quartz, red sandstone and slate. In 1854 there were about three hundred men at work 
here, who had come from the mines of Honduras in the hope of higher wages. Here was 
also a motley crowd of American, Irish, French, and German vagabonds, who went digging 
one day here, and next day there, consuming in the evening what they had earned during the 
day. Altogether not above six hundred persons were attracted to this lonely region ; while 
the province of Chontales has an Indian population of ten thousand, supporting themselves by 
hunting and fishing. Up to 1854 no gold from Chontales had found its way into commerce, 
nor had any proper analysis been made of the ores. Specimens of the latter were neverthe- 
less brought to Granada of extraordinary richness. It was calculated that every 100 lbs. of 
the ore would yield three and a half ounces of pure gold. Subsequent results, however, did 
not bear out these anticipations. The great hindrance to the profitable working of the 
mines of Chontales, is the want of instructed miners, good roads, and sufficient capital." — 
Scherzer. 

2 " In Central America, lignite, including amber, occasionally occurs from Costa Eica to 
San Salvador, and in all probability further south as well as north. Pieces of amber, some 
with insects in them, derived from the tertiary coal formations of the Bay of Tamarinda, I 
eaw at Leon, where I saw also some samples of coal from the neighborhood of that city. 
They were of a greyish black color, rather hard, with the texture of wood clearly visible. 
On being burnt, a considerable quantity of ashes were left, in some cases of a white, in others 
of a red color." — FroebeVs Seven Tears in Central America, p. 68. 



656 APPENDIX. 

and expensive process, wHch is now beginning to be facilitated and 
cheapened by the introduction of the German or " barrel process." The 
machines for crushing the ores have, however, as yet, undergone but 
slight improvement. Some of the mines in San Salvador, Honduras, and 
Costa Eica have European machinery, and are worked to good advantage. 
The trade and commerce of Nicaragua is at an extremely low ebb. 
The advance which the country made in these respects, from the opening 
of the California transit in 1850-51, has been followed by more than a 
corresponding retrogression — the consequence of domestic dissensions, 
and foreign invasion. The merchants of the country are impoverished 
and bankrupt, the revenues of the government merely nominal, and the 
httle foreign commerce that remains, hardly worth the trouble of esti- 
mating, is in the hands of two or three English and French traders, whose 
governments are able and willing to protect them in their lives and prop- 
erty. American enterprise and influence in the country may be consid- 
ered as extinct, and likely to remain so until a different class of men shall 
identify themselves with the country. 



CHAPTEE II. 

THE PROPOSED INTEE-OCEANIO CANAL: EAELT EXPLORATIONS; STJRTET OP 
COLONEL CHILDS IN 1851; VARIOUS LINES FROM LAKE NICARAGUA TO THE 
PACIFIC; ETC., ETC. 

From what has been said in the preceding chapters, it sufficiently ap- 
pears that Nicaragua is a country of great beauty of scenery, fertility of 
soU, and variety and richness of products. But she has attracted the 
attention of the word less on these accounts than because she is believed 
to possess within her borders the best and most feasible route for a canal 
between the two great oceans. The project of opening such a communi- 
cation through her territories began to be entertained as soon as it was 
found that there existed no natural water communication between the 
seas. As early as 1551, the historian G-omara had indicated the four lines 
which have since been regarded as offering the greatest facilities for the 
purpose, viz. : at Darien, Panama, Nicaragua, and Tehuantepec. There 
were difficulties, he said, "and even mountains in the way, but," he 
added, " there are likewise hands ; let only the resolve be formed to make 
the passage, and it can be made. If inclination be not wanting, there will 
be no want of means ; the Indies, to which the passage is to be made, 
will supply them. To a king of Spain, with the wealth of the Indies at 
his command, when the object is the spice trade, that which is possible is 
also easy." 

But, although occupying so large a share of the attention of all mari- 
time nations, and furnishing a subject for innumerable essays in every 
language of Europe, yet it was not until after the discovery of gold in Cali- 
fornia, and the organization of an Anglo-American State on the shores of 
the Pacific, that the question of a canal assumed a practical form, or that 
of its feasibility was accurately determined. 

In 1851, a complete survey was made of the river San Juan, Lake 
Nicaragua, and the isthmus intervening between the lake and the Pacific, 
by Colonel Childs, under the direction of the late " Atlantic and Pacific 
Ship-Canal Company." Until then, it had always been assumed that the 
river San Juan, as well as Lake Nicaragua, could easily be made naviga^' 

42 



658 



APPENDIX. 



ble for ships, and that the only obstacle to be overcome was the narrow 
strip of land between the lake and the ocean. Hence, aU of the so-called 
surveys were confined to that point. One of these was made under 
orders of the Spanish government, in 1781, by Don Manuel Galisteo. 
Another, and that best known, by Mr. John Baily, under the direction 
of the government of Central America, in 1838. An intermediate exam- 
ination seems to have been made early in the present century, the results 
of which are given in Thompson's Guatemala. The following table shows 
the distances, elevations, etc., on the various lines followed by these ex- 
plorers : 



AntboriUes. 


Distance from Lake to 
Ocean, 


Greatest Elevation above 
Ocean. 


Greatest Elevation above 
Lake. 


Milc8. Feet. 


Feet. 


Feet. 


G-alisteo, 1781 


. . .IT 200 . . 


272 


134 




IT 330 


.296 


164 


Baily, 1838 


16 T30 ... 


615 


48T. 


Childs, 1851 


18 588 


1.fi9 


.- 47* 







As the survey of Colonel Childs is the only one which can be accepted 
as conforming to modern engineering requirements, it will be enough to 
present the detailed results at which he arrived. The Hne proposed by 
him, and on whicJi aU his calculations and estimate? were based, com- 
mences at the little port of Brito on the Pacific, and passes across the 
isthmus between the ocean and the lake, to the mouth of a small stream 
called the Eio Lajas, flowing into the latter ; thence across Lake Nica- 
ragua to its outlet, and down the vaUey of the Eio San Juan to the port 
of the same name, on the Atlantic. The length of this line was found to 
be 194^ miles, as follows : — 

un.BS. 

Westebn Divibiok : — Canal from the port of Brito on tte Pacific, through the val- 
leys of the Rio Grande and Eio Lajas, flowing into Lake Nicaragua 18.688 

Middle Division : — Through Lake Nicaragua, from the mouth of Eio Lajas to San 

Carlos, at the head of the San Juan river 66.500 

Bastesn DrviSioiT — First Section: — Slack water navigation on San Juan Eiver, 
from San Carlos to a point on the river nearly opposite the mouth of the Eio Se- 
rapiqui , 90.800 

Second Section: — Canal from point last named to port of San Juan del Norte 28.505 

Total, as above 194393 

The dimensions of the canal were designed to be — depth, 17 feet ; ex- 
cavations in earth, 50 feet wide at bottom, 86 feet wide at nine feet above 
bottom, and 118 feet wide at surface of water; excavations in rock, 50 
feet wide at bottom, 77 feet wide at nine feet above bottom, and 78^ feet 
wide at surface of water. 



INTEROCEANIC CANAL. 659 

The construction of the canal on this plan contemplates supplying the 
western division, from the lake to the sea, with water from the lake. It 
would, therefore, be necessary to commence the work on the lake at a 
point where the water is seventeen feet deep, at mean level. This point 
is opposite the mouth of a Httle stream called Rio Lajas, and twenty-five 
chains from the shore. From this point, for one and a half miles, partly 
along the Rio Lajas, the excavation will be principally in earth, but be- 
yond this, for a distance of five and a half miles, which carries the line 
beyond the summit, three-fourths of the excavations would be in trap- 
rock ; that is to say, the deepest excavation or open cut would be 64i 
feet (summit, 47^ feet + depth of canal, 17 feet=64A feet), and involve 
the removal of 1,800,000 cubic yards of earth, and 3,378,000 cubic yards 
of rock. The excavation and construction on this five and a half miles 
alone was estimated to cost upwards of $6,250,000. After passing the 
summit, and reaching the valley of a httle stream called Rio G-rande, the 
excavation, as a general rule, would be only the depth of the canal. Col. 
Childs found that the lake, at ordinary high water, is 102 feet 10 inches 
above the Pacific at high, and 111 feet 5 inches at low tide, instead of 
128 feet, as calculated by Mr. Baily. He proposed to accomphsh the de- 
scent to Brito by means of fourteen locks, each of eight feet lift. The 
harbor of Brito, as it is called, at the point where the Rio Grande enters 
the sea, is, in fact, only a small angular indentation of the land, partially 
protected by a low ledge of rocks, entirely inadequate for the terminus of 
a great work like the proposed canal, and incapable of answering the com- 
monest requirements of a port. To remedy this deficiency, it was pro- 
posed to construct an artificial harbor of thirty-four acres area, by means 
of moles and jetties in the sea, and extensive excavations in the land. If, 
as supposed, the excavations here would be in sand, it would be obviously 
almost impossible to secure proper foundations for the immense sea-walls 
and piers which the work would require. If in rock, as seems most 
likely, the cost and labor would almost surpass computation. Assuming 
the excavations to be in earth and sand, Col. Childs estimated the cost of 
these improvements at upwards of $2,700,000. 

Returning now to the lake, and proceeding from seventeen feet depth 
of water, opposite the mouth of the Rio Lajas,^ in the direction of the out- 

1 No one should be deceived by the use of the term Rio as applied in Spanish America. 
It may mean anything from a mere rill upwards to the largest river. Thus, the Eio Lajas 
is a running stream for only part of the year. During the dry season it is simply a long, 
narrow lagoon, of sluggish Lethean water, without current, and the bar at its mouth is dry. 
cutting off all connection with the lake. The lake along this part of the coast is very shal- 
low, the bottom rock. The engraving shows its appearance in the month of December. 



660 



APPENDIX. 



let of the lake at San Carlos, there is ample depth of water for vessels of 
aU sizes for a distance of about fifty-one miles, to a point half a mile south 
of the Boacas Islands, where the water shoals rapidly to fourteen feet; 
for the remaining five and a half miles to San Carlos, the depth averages 




MOUTH OP THE EIO LAJAi 



VOLCANO OF OMETEPEC. 



only nine feet at low, and fourteen feet at high water. For this distance, 
therefore, an average under- water excavation of eight feet in depth would 
be required, to carry out the plan of a canal of seventeen feet deep. But 
if the lake were kept at high level, the under- water excavation would 
have an average of only about three feet. Colonel ChUds proposed to 
protect this portion of the canal by rows of piles driven on each side, and 
supposed that when the excavation should be completed, there would be 
a sufficient current between them to keep the channel clear. 

We come now to the division between Lake Nicaragua and the Atlan- 
tic, through or along the Rio San Juan. Colonel Childs carried a line of 
levels from the lake at San Carlos to the port of San Juan, and found the 
distance between those points to be a hundred nineteen and a third miles, 
and the total fall from the level of high-water in the lake to that of high- 
tide in the harbor, one hundred seven and a half feet. From San Carlos 
to a point half a mile below the Serapiqui river, a distance of 91 miles, 
Col. Childs proposed to make the river navigable by excavating its bed, 
and by constructing dams, to be passed by means of locks and short ca- 
nals ; the remaining twenty-eight mUes to be constructed through the 
alluvial delta of the San Juan, inland, and independently of the river. Of 



INTEKOCEANIO CANAL. 661 

the whole fall, sixty-two and a half feet occur on that portion of the river 
which he proposed to improve by dams, and on which there were to be 
eight locks, and the remaining forty-five feet on the inland portion of the 
works, by means of six locks — ^fourteen locks in all, each with an average 
lift of nearly eight feet. It was proposed to place the first dam, descend- 
ing the river, at the Castnio rapids, thirty-seven miles from the lake, and 
to pass the rapids by means of a short lateral canal. By means of this 
dam the river was to be raised, at that point, twenty-one and a half feet, 
and the level of Lake Nicaragua five feet above its lowest stage ; or, in 
other words, kept at high-water mark, to avoid the extensive submarine 
excavations which would be necessary to enable vessels to enter the river. 
The fall, at this dam, would be sixteen feet. The other dams were to be 
four of eight feet fall, and one of thirteen and a half feet, and another of 
fourteen and a half feet. Between all these it was found there would be 
required more or less excavation in the bed of the stream, often in rock. 
Col. Childs also proposed to improve the harbor of San Juan by means of 
moles, etc., and also to construct an artificial harbor or basin, in connec- 
tion with it, of thirteen acres area. As regards the amount of water pass- 
ing through the San Juan, it was found that at its lowest level, June 4, 
1851, the discharge from the lake was 11,930 cubic feet per second. The 
greatest rise in the lake is five feet. When it stood 3.43 feet above its 
lowest level, the fl9w of water in the river, at San Carlos, was 18,059 
cubic feet per second, being an increase of upwards of fifty per cent. 
Supposing the same ratio of increase, the discharge from the lake, at ex- 
treme high-water, would be upwards of 23,000 cubic feet per second. 
The river receives large accessions from its tributaries, which, at the point 
of divergence of the Colorado channel, swell the flow of water to 54,380 
cubic feet per second, of which, 42,056 cubic feet pass through the Color- 
ado channel, and 12,324 cubic feet into the harbor of San Juan. 
The cost of the work was estimated by Col. Childs as follows: 

Eastern Division (from Port of San Juan to lake) $13,023,2T5 

Central Division (through lake) 1,068,410 

Western Division from lake to Pacific 14,4T5,630 

$28,567,315 
Add for contingencies 15 per cent 4,285,095 

Total estimated cost $32,852,410 

The charter of the Company, under the auspices of which Col. Childs 
was sent to Nicaragua, stipulated that the canal should be of dimensions 
sufficient " to admit vessels of all sizes." A canal therefore, such as that 
proposed, but seventeen feet deep, and one hundred and eighteen feet wide 



662 APPENDIX. 

at the surface of the water, could not meet the requirements of the charter, 
nor he adequate to the wants of commerce. To pass freely large mer- 
chantmen and vessels of war, a canal would require to be at least thirty 
feet deep, with locks and other works in proportion, which would involve 
at least three times the amount of excavation, etc., of the work proposed 
above, and a corresponding augmentation of cost. A canal so small as to 
render necessary the transhipment of merchandise and passengers is man- 
ifestly inferior to a railway, both as involving, in the first instance, greater 
cost of construction, and, in the second place, greater expense in working, 
with less speed. 

The surveys and estimates of Col. Childs were submitted to the British 
government, and by it referred for report to Mr. James "Walker, civil en- 
gineer, and Captain Edward Aldrich, Eoyal Engineers. The report of 
this commission, proceeding on the assumption that the plans, measure- 
ments, etc., of Col. Childs were correct, was, on the whole, favorable. It 
however suggested that the item of " contingencies" in the estimate should 
be increased fi-om fifteen to twenty-five per cent. Of all the works of the 
proposed navigation it pronounces the Brito or Pacific harbor as least sat- 
isfactory. " Presuming the statements and conclusions of Col. Childs to 
be correct, the Brito harbor is, in shape and size, unworthy of this great 
ship navigation, even supposing the Pacific, to which it is quite open, to 
be a much quieter ocean than any we have seen or have information of." 
Subsequently, the plans and reports were laid before a committee of Eng- 
lish capitalists, with a view to procure the means for the actual construc- 
tion of the work. This committee, after a patient investigation, decUned 
to embark in the work, or to recommend it to pubhc support, on the 
ground ; — 1st. That the dimensions of the proposed work were not such 
as, in their opinion, would meet the requirements of commerce ; 2d. That 
these dimensions were not conformable to the provisions of the Company's 
charter ; 3d. That supposing the work not to exceed the estimated cost 
of $32,800,000, the returns, to meet the simple interest on the investment, 
at six per cent, would require to be at least $1,950,000 over and above its 
current expenses; or, to meet this interest, and the percentage to be 
paid to Nicaragua, not less than $2,365,000 over and above expenses ; or 
allowing $1,000,000 per annum for repairs, superintendence, cost of trans- 
portation, etc., then the gross earnings would require to be $3,400,000 ; 
4th. Putting the toll at $3 per ton, the collection of this revenue would 
involve the passage of upwards of 1,000,000 tons of shipping per annum ; 
5th. That not more than one-third of the vessels engaged in the oriental 
trade could pass through a canal of the proposed dimensions, even if the 
route which it would open were shorter than that by way of Cape of 



ABANDONMENT OF CANAL PROJECTS. 



663 



Good Hope, instead of being more than 1000 nnles longer to Calcutta, 
Singapore, and other leading ports of British India; 6th. That the 
heavy toll of $3 per ton on ships would generally prevent such vessels as 
could do so from passing the canal, inasmuch as on a vessel of 1000 tons 
the aggregate toll would be $3000, or more than the average earnings of 
such vessels per voyage ; 7th. That a work of the dimensions proposed, 
under the present condition of commerce, would not attract sufficient sup- 
port to defray the cost of repairs and working, and could not therefore be 
safely undertaken by capitaUsts. Upon the pubhcation of this report the 
canal company obtained the privilege of opening a transit by steamers 
and carriages through Nicaragua, and the project of a canal seems to 
have been definitely abandoned — ^unless we regard the fantastic proceed- 
ings of certain adventurers from Europe, as directed seriously toward the 
execution of the enterprise. 

The construction of a ship-canal between the oceans through Nicaragua 
is unquestionably within the range of engineering feasibihties, but it can 
be as safely affirmed that, with the present requirements of commerce, 
and under the laws which govern the use of capital, it is not Hkely to be 
seriously undertaken. The assumption upon which most of the specula- 
tions regarding the utUity of such a work are founded, viz., that it would 
shorten the distance between the ports of Europe, and those of Asia in 
general, is erroneous as will appear fi:om the following table : 



Via Cape of 
Good Hope. 



From Englakd 

To Canton 

" Calcutta 

" Singapore 

" Sidney via Torres Straits 

From New Yoek 

To Canton 

" Calcutta. 

" Singapore 

" Sidney 



MILES. 

12,900 
11,440 
11,880 
14,980 



14,100 
12,360 
12,700 
15,T20 



13,800 
15,480 
15,120 
12,550 



11,820 

13,680 

11,420 

9,480 



MILES. 

900 
4040 
4240 



1320 



2430 



1280 
6240 



It wiU be observed that the sole advantage which the canal would 
affijrd to Great Britain, as regards the East, would be a saving in distance 
(equally attainable by a railway across the isthmus) of 2430 mUes in com- 
municating with AustraUa. As regards the Sandwich Islands, and the 
western coast of America, the gain in distance, both to England and the 
United States, would be considerable, as shown in the subjoined table : 



664 



APPENDIX. 



From England 

To Valparaiso 

Callao 

Sandwich Islands 

From New Yoek 

To Valparaiso 

Callao 

Sandwich Islands 



8,T00 
10,020 
13,500 



8,580 

9,900 

13,200 



T,500 
6,800 
8,640 



4,860 
8,640 
6,300 



1,200 
3,220 
4,860 



3,720 
6,860 
6,900 



It must not be supposed that the investigations of Col. ChUds were con- 
fined to the single Hne described in the foregoing paragraphs. He exam- 
ined that also by way of the Rio Sapoa to the bay of Salinas, but found 
that to pass the summit, a cut of 119 feet in depth would be requisite, an 
up-lockage from the lake of 350 feet, and a down-lockage to the Pacific 
of 432 feet. Water to supply the upper locks, it was ascertained, could 
only be got with difficulty, and at great cost ; and, furthermore, a rock- 
cut of three-fourths of a mile long would be necessary, fi-om low-tide mark 
in the bay of Sahnas to deep water. In short, the physical difficulties of 
this Hne, if not of a nature to make the construction of a canal impossible, 
were nevertheless such as to make it impracticable. 

It seems that Col. Childs was limited by his instructions to an exam- 
ination of the direct line between Lake Nicaragua and the Pacific, pro- 
vided that any of the routes proposed should prove feasible. As a conse- 
quence, finding a route which, in his opinion, was practicable, he made 
no surveys of the various lines which had been indicated by myself 
and others, from the superior lake of Managua to the ports of Tamarinda, 
Eealejo, and the Bay of Ponseca, This is a source of regret, especially in 
view of the deficiency on the surveyed line of a reasonably good harbor 
on the Pacific — ^Brito, aa already said, being utterly inadequate for a work 
of the kind proposed, while Eealejo and the Bay of Pouseca are all that 
can be desired as ports. 

A hne, however, extending to any of the ports here named, would re- 
quire not only to pass through the entire length of Lake Nicaragua, but 
also to overcome the obstacles which intervene between that body of 
water and Lake Managua. Much of the confusion and misapprehension, 
as to the connection between these lakes, has been set right in Chapter 
XV. of the preceding narrative. The distance between the two is about 
sixteen miles, of which twelve miles is overcome by a broad, shallow arm 
of Lake Nicaragua, called the Estero de Panaloya. It varies from six to 
fifteen feet in depth, with low banks, and generally a muddy bottom. 



RIO TIPITAPA. 665 

• Strictly speaking, this Estero is part of Lake Nicaragua, and the actual 
distance between the lakes does not, therefore, exceed four miles. 

The estate of Pasquiel, at tlie head of this estuary, is the limit of navi- 
gation. Above, for a mile and a half, to Paso Chico^ the bed of the river 
is full of large and isolated rocks, resting upon a bed of volcanic breccia. 
Beyond Paso Chico, the bed, or rather the former bed of the river, (for 
except in rainy seasons there is no water here beyond what flows from 
springs,) is the same solid breccia, worn into basins and fantastic " pot- 
holes" by the water. Within one mile of the lake of Managua is the fall 
of Tipitapa, opposite the little village of that name. It is a ledge of the 
rock above described, and is from twelve to fifteen feet in height. The 
bed of the stream is here not less than 400 feet in width. From the falls 
to the lake, the bed is wide but shallow, covered with grass and bushes, 
resembling a neglected pasture. At the time of my visit (1849), no water 
flowed through it, nor, so far as I could learn, had any flowed there for 
years. I can, however, readily beUeve that in an extremely wet season 
a small quantity may find its way through this channel, and over the falls. 
It is, nevertheless, very evident that no considerable body of water ever 
passed here.* There is an arm of Lake Managua which projects down the 
channel for three or four hundred yards, but the water is only two or 
three feet deep, with an equal depth of soft, gray mud, the dwelling-place 
of numerous alligators, with reedy shores, thronged with every variety of 
water-birds. The water of Lake Managua, near the so-called outlet, is 
not deep, and the channel, in order to admit of the passage of large ves- 
sels, would probably require to be well dredged, if not protected by par- 
allel piers. At the distance of about three-fourths of a nule from the 
shore, I found, by actual measurement, that the water did not exceed two 
fathoms in depth. No great obstruction to building the proposed canal 

1 It is said that the river Tipitapa was a considerable stream np to 1844, hut that, in con- 
sequence of an earthquake in that year, it ceased to flow. Hence, it has been inferred that 
some subterranean channel was then opened, sufficiently large to pass the water which had 
previously flowed through the Tipitapa channel. This statement lacks confirmation. Ovie- 
do tells us that in his time (1527) the amount of water in the river underwent great varia- 
tions with the change of seasons. That the level of water in the lake is subject to great 
changes, I can personally bear witness. In 1849, the road from Matearas to Nagarote ran, 
for a long distance, along the shores of the lake, over a beach varying from one hundred to 
three hundred yards in width. In 1853, 1 found the water entirely covering this beach, as 
weU as the old mule-path along the shore, to the depth of from five to ten feet. The low 
stage of water in the lake in 1849, and its absence in the channel of Tipitapa, were doubtless 
due to a succession of comparatively light rainy seasons, or of dry years. I have no doubt 
that in 1858, there was a considerable flow of water through the channel of Tipitapa. At 
any rate, I am not inclined to ascribe any marked change in the hydrographic system of the 
country, to the earthquake of 1844. 



666 APPENDIX. 

exists in the section between the two lakes. The rock is so soft and fri- 
able that a channel can easily be opened from Lake Managua to the falls. 
Beyond this the banks are high for three miles, forming a natural canal 
which only needs to be properly dammed, at its lower extremity, to fur- 
nish a body of water adequate to every purpose of navigation. Locks 
would then be required to reach the estuary of Panaloya. Prom this 
point to the lake, I conceive, may prove the most difficult part of this sec- 
tion, although apparently the easiest. Where the bottom is earth or 
mud, the desirable depth of water may be secured by dredging ; but 
where it is rock, as it certainly is near its upper extremity, some difficult 
excavation will be required. The banks downward to Lake Nicaragua are 
so low as to prohibit assistance from dams, except by diking the shores. 

Lake Managua may thus be said virtually to have no outlet. The 
streams which come in from the Pacific side are insignificant ; and though, 
as already stated, the Eio G-rande and other streams of considerable size 
flow into it from the direotion of Segovia, yet they vary much with the 
season of the year, and seldom fiirnish a greater quantity of water than is 
requisite to supply the evaporation from so large a surface, in a tropical 
climate. Nevertheless, a reservoir like that of Managua, with 1,200 
square miles of surface, would be adequate to supply all the water re- 
quired for a ship canal at this point, without any sensible diminution of 
its volume. 

The country between Lake Managua and the Pacific is much more 
favorable for the construction of a canal than that between Lake Nica- 
ragua and the same ocean. The dividing ridge, to which I have alluded 
in a previous chapter, as separating the waters of the latter lake from the 
sea, also extends along the intervening isthmus, very nearly to the head 
of Lake Managua. Here it is wholly interrupted, or rather subsides into 
broad plains, rising but a few feet above the lake, and thence descending 
in a gentle slope to the ocean. Three hues across these plains have been 
suggested ; 1st, by the left shore of the lake to the small port of Tam- 
arinda ; 2d, by the same shore to the weU-known port of Eealejo ; and 
3d, by the upper shore of the lake to the G-ulf of Ponseca, or Gonchagua. 
It is probable that all of these lines are feasible, but a minute survey can 
only determine which is best. 

1. — The first Hne suggested, to the port of Tamarinda, is considerably 
shorter than either of the others, not exceeding fifteen or eighteen miles 
in length. But the water of the lake upon its north-western shore, in the 
bay of Moabita, is shallow. I sounded it in July, 1849. It deepened 
regularly from the shore to the distance of one mile, when it attained five 
fathoms. After that it deepened rapidly to ten and fifteen fathoms. The 



LAKE MANAGUA TO EEALEJO. 667 

country between the lake and Tamarinda, so far as can be ascertained. 
(it being covered with forests) is nearly level, and offers no insuperable 
obstacle to a canal. There is no town or village near the port, and it 
seems to have escaped general notice. Nor is it known that it has ever 
been entered by vessels, except in one or two instances for the purpose 
of loading Brazil wood. It is small, and tolerably well protected ; but is 
not a proper termination for a work like the proposed canal. 

2. — The second line is that to the weR known and excellent port of 
Realejo, formed by the junction of the TeUca or Doiia Paula and Realejo 
rivers, and protected on the side of the sea by the islands of Cardon and 
Asserradores, and a bluff of the main-land. It is safe and commodious, 
and the water is good, ranging from three and four to eight and nine 
fathoms. The volcano of El Viejo, lifting its cone upwards of 6,000 feet 
above the sea, to the north-eastward of the port, forms an unmistakable 
landmark for the mariner, long before any other part of the coast is visible. 
This line, starting from the nearest practicable point of Lake Managua, 
cannot fall short of forty-five miles in length. It is said that the Estero 
of Doiia Paula, which is only that part of the Telica river up which the 
tide flows, might be made use of for a considerable distance ; but that can 
only be determined by actual survey. I can discover no reason why this 
route could not be advantageously pursued. It has the present advan- 
tage of passing through the most populous and best cultivated part of the 
country, and terminating at a point already well known. There is no 
stream upon this hne which, as has been supposed by Louis Napoleon and 
some other writers on this subject, can be made available for supplying 
this section of the proposed canal with water. The " Rio Tosta," of which 
they speak, (by which, from its described position, it is supposed the Rio 
Telica is meant, for no stream known as the Rio Tosta exists), is a stream 
of some size, but never furnished a quantity of water sufl&cient to supply 
an ordinary canal The local geography of the plain of Leon is httle 
known to its inhabitants ; and, as the roads are hemmed in by impenetra- 
ble forests, it is impossible for the traveller to inform himself of the minor 
topographical features of the country. The Rio Telica empties into the 
Estero Dona Paula, and it may possibly be made to answer a useful pur- 
pose. I have crossed it at many points where it has (as it has for nearly 
its entire length) the character of a huge natural canal, fi:om sixty to eighty 
feet deep by perhaps one hundred and fifty or two hundred yards wide at 
the top, with steep banks, for the most part of a friable substratum of 
rock or compact earth. And as, at its source, it is not more than fifteen 
miles distant from Lake Managua, it is not improbable that, by proper 
cuttings, the waters of the lake might be brought into it, and, after the 



668 APPENDIX. 

requisite level is attained, the bed of the stream might be used from that 
point to the sea, securing the necessary depth of water by locks or dams. 
If this suggestion is well founded, the principal part of the estimated ex- 
cavation of this section of the canal may be avoided. In any event, the 
cutting would not, with the aids furnished by this mechanical age, be an 
object to deter the engineer. 

Every traveller who has passed over the plain of Leon, concurs in rep- 
resenting that the range of hills separating Lake Nicaragua from the Pa- 
cific are here whoUy interrupted ; and I can add my unqualified testimony 
in support of the fact. The city of Leon is situated in the midst of this 
plain, midway between the lake and sea ; and, from the flat roof of its 
cathedral, the traveller may see the Pacific ; and, were it not for the in- 
tervening forests, probably the lake. " A. Gr.," quoted by Louis Napo- 
leon, and whose observations are uniformly very accurate, states that the 
ground, between lake and ocean, at a distance of 2,725 yards from the 
former, attains its maximum height of 55 feet 6 inches, and from thence 
slopes to the sea. Other observers vary in their estimates of this maxi- 
mum elevation, from 49 feet 6 inches to 51 feet. Of course, the precise 
elevation can only be determined by actual survey. The city of I^eon is 
distant, in a direct liae, about fifteen or eighteen miles from the lake. 
Captain Belcher determined its height, above the Pacific, to be 140 feet ; 
which, deducted from the height of the lake, 156 feet, shows that the 
plain, where it is built, is sixteen feet below the level of the lake. 

It is probable that the deepest cutting on this Une, allowing thirty feet 
for the depth of the proposed canal, would not exceed eighty feet, and 
this only for a short distance. We have examples of much more serious 
undertakings of this character. In the canal from Aries to Bouc the 
bable-land L^que has been cut through to the extent of 2,289 yards, the 
extreme depth being fi-om 130 to 162 feet. I need hardly add that the 
Lake of Managua must supply the water requisite for the use of the canal, 
torn its shores to the sea, as there are no reservoirs or streams of magni- 
tude upon this line. 

3. — There is stiU another route, to which public attention has never been 
generally directed, but which, if feasible, offers greater advantages than 
sither of the others just named, viz., from the northern point of Lake Ma- 
aagua via the Estero Eeal to the G-ulf of Fonseca or Conchagua. The 
apper part of Lake Managua is divided into two large bays by a vast 
promontory or peninsula, at the extreme point of which stands the giant 
volcano of Momotombo. Between this volcano and that of the Viejo, to 
the north-east of Eealejo, running nearly east and west, is a chain of vol- 
canoes, presenting, probably, in a short distance, a greater number of ex- 



LAKE MANAttUA TO BAT OF FONSECA. 669 

tinct craters, and more evidences of volcanic action, than any other equal 
extent of the continent. This chain is isolated. Upon the south is the 
magnificent plain of Leon, bounded only by the sea ; and upon the north 
is also another great plain, the " Llano del Conejo" bounded by the aurif- 
erous lulls of Segovia. Tliis plain extends fi-om the northern bay of Lake 
Managua to the Gulf of Conchagua, which is equalled only by that of San 
Francisco, and may be described as a grand harbor, in which all the ves- 
sels of the world might ride in entire security. It much resembles that 
of San Francisco in position and form ; the entrance from the sea is, how- 
ever, broader. Its entire length within the land is not far from sixty 
miles, and its breadth thirty miles. The three States of San Salvador, 
Nicaragua, and Honduras, have ports upon it. All the adjacent coasts are 
of unbounded fertility, and possess an unlimited supply of timber. The 
bay embraces several islands of considerable size and beauty, surrounded 
by water of such depth as to enable vessels of the largest class to ap- 
proach close in-shore. The most important of these, from the circum- 
stance of its size, and the fact that it commands and is the key to the en- 
tire bay, is the island of Tigre, belonging to Honduras. This island was 
the head-quarters and depot of Drake, and other piratical adventurers, 
during their operations in the South Sea. On it is situated the free port 
of Amapala. Its possession, and the consequent control of the Gulf of 
Fonseca, by any great maritime power, would enable that power to exer- 
cise a command over the commerce of the western part of the continent, 
such as the possession of Gibraltar by the English gives them over that 
of Europe. 

Prom the southern extremity of the Gulf of Fonseca extends a large 
estuary, or arm, called the Estero Eeal. Its course is precisely in the direc- 
tion of the Lake of Managua ; which it approaches to within fifteen or 
twenty miles, and between it and the lake is the Plain of Conejo, which 
is, in fact, a part of the plain of Leon. This Estero is as broad as the 
East River at New York, and has, for most of its extent, an ample depth 
of water. At thirty miles above the bay it has fifty feet. There is a nar- 
row bar at its mouth, on which, at low tide, there are but about three 
fathoms. The tide rises, however, nearly ten feet ; and with artificial aid 
the bar could, doubtless, be passed at aU times. This Estero is one of the 
most beautiful natural channels that can be imagined ; preserving, for a 
long distance, a very nearly uniform width of from three hundred to four 
hundred yards. Its banks are lined with mangroves, with a dense back- 
ground of other trees. 

Captain Belcher, who was here in 1838, went thirty miles up the Es- 
tero, in a vessel drawing ten feet of water.- He says : " To-day we 



670 



APPENDIX. 



started with the Starhng, and other boats, to explore the Estero Real, 
which, I had been given to understand, was navigable for sixty nules; in 
which case, from what I saw of its course in my visit to the Viejo, it must 
nearly communicate with the Lake of Managua. After considerable labor, 
we succeeded in carrying the Starling thirty nules from its mouth, and 
might easily have gone farther, had the wind permitted, but the prevail- 
ing strong winds rendered the toil of towing too heavy. We ascended a 
small hill, about a mile below our extreme position, from which angles 
were taken to all the commanding peaks. From that survey, added to 
what I remarked from the summit of the Viejo, I am satisfied that the 
stream could be followed many miles farther ; and, I have not the sUght- 
est doubt it is fed very near the Lake Managua. I saw the mountains 
'beyond the lake on its eastern side, and no land higher them the intervening 
trees occurred. This, therefore, would be the most advantageous line for 
a canal, which, by entire lake navigation, might be connected with the 
interior of the States of San Salvador, Honduras, Nicaragua, and extend 
to the Atlantic. Thirty navigable miles for vessels drawing ten feet we 
can vouch for, and the natives and residents assert sixty [thirty?} more!" 
From the course of the Estero, and the distance it is known to extend, 
it probably would not require a canal of more than twenty miles in length 
to connect its navigable waters with those of Lake Managua ; in which 
case there would be a saving over the Realejo hne, besides haviag the 
western terminus of the great work in the magnificent bay which I have 
just described. It may, therefore, be safely asserted that a passage from 
the Lake of Managua to the sea is entirely feasible, and it only remains to 
determine which of the routes here indicated offers the greatest advan- 
tages. 



Routes from the Port of San Juan to the 
Pacific. 


§ 
S 

H 


i 

! 

h 

It 


ii 

s 




1 . 
11 
1 
5 




1 

o 

•3 

3 


a 


To Brito 


119 
119 
119 
119 


5T 
120 
120 
120 


18 


4 
4 
4 


50 
50 
50 


ie 

45 
20 


13T 
139 
168 
143 


194 
809 
338 
313 


" Tamarinda 







The above table exhibits the estimated distances from sea to sea, on 
the various hnes already described, as also the probable extent of actual 
canahzation. It is assumed, throughout, that the river San Juan cannot 



LENGTH OF PROPOSED CANAL. 671 

be made navigable for ships, and that a lateral canal must be made, for its 
entire length. The length of the river, including its windings, is nearly 
one hundred and twenty miles ; but it is probable that the distance, in a 
right hne, between the lake and the Atlantic does not exceed ninety 
miles. 

The length of the proposed line of communication from San Juan to 
Realejo is estimated by Louis Napoleon at 278 miles, as follows : Length 
of the San Juan, 104 miles ; of Lake Nicaragua, 90 mUes; River Tipitapa, 
20 miles ; Lake Leon, or Managua, 35 mUes ; and distance from the lake 
to Realejo, 29 miles. This is positively erroneous in some particulars ; as, 
for instance, the distance from Lake Managua to Realejo, which, so far 
from being only 29 mUes, is actually from 40 to 45 miles. 



CHAPTBE III. 

OUTLINE OF NEGOTIATIONS IN RESPECT TO THE PROPOSED CANAL. 

In the preceding chapter I have considered solely the question of the 
practicability of the projected inter-oceanic canal. It will be interesting 
next to notice, briefly, some of the measures which have been taken 
towards the construction of the work. 

Although its feasibility was asserted early in the sixteenth century, 
nothing was practically attempted until late in the eighteenth century, 
when the attention of the Spanish government was called to the subject 
once more by G-odoy, " the Prince of Peace," and a survey of the route 
made, under his direction, by Galisteo. After the, independence of Cen- 
tral America, another attempt toward the accomplishment of the same 
object was made by Senor Manual Antonio de la Cerda, afterwards Gov- 
ernor of the State of Nicaragua, who, in 1823, urged the matter upon the 
Federal Congress, but failed in securing its attention. 

During the year 1824, however, various propositions were made from 
abroad, in respect to the enterprise. Amongst these was one from Messrs. 
Barclay & Co., of London, bearing date Sept. 18, 1824. They proposed 
to open a navigable communication between the two oceans, via the 
River San Juan and Lake Nicaragua, without cost to the government, 
provided the latter would extend the requisite assistance in other modes. 
On the 2d of February, 1825, other propositions were made, by some 
merchants of the United States, signed by Col. Charles Bourke and Mat- 
thew Llanos, in which they observe that they had, in the month of De- 
cember preceding, (1824), sent an armed brig to San Juan, having on 
board engineers and other persons charged to make a survey of the pro- 
posed route. They prayed, in consideration of the advances already 
made, and the evidences of good faith thus exhibited, that the govern- 
ment would grant them, 1st, an exclusive proprietorship and control of 
the canal ; 2d, an exclusive right of navigating the lakes and dependent 
waters by steam ; 3d, free permission to use all natural products of the 
country, necessary for the work ; 4th, exemption of duty on goods intro- 
duced by the Company, until the completion of the work. In return for 



NEGOTIATIONS. 673 

this, they proposed that the government should receive twenty per cent. 

on the tolls, and that at the end of the term of years, the entire 

work should revert to tlie government. Whether the armed brig, and 
the party of engineers referred to, ever reached their destination, is un- 
known ; nor is it known that the government of Central America ever 
took any specific notice of their propositions. 

The subject was nevertheless regarded as of primary interest through- 
out aU Central America, and the minister of that repubUc in the United 
States, Don Antonio Jos6 Caiias, was specially instructed to bring the 
matter prominently before the American government. This he did in an 
official letter, bearing date Peb. 8, 1825, addressed to Henry Clay, then 
Secretary of State. In this letter, Sr. Canas soUcited the cooperation of 
the United States, on the ground " that its noble conduct had been a 
model and a protection to all the Americas," and entitled it to a prefer- 
ence over any other nation, both in the " merits and advantages of the 
proposed great undertaking." He proposed also, by means of a treaty, 
" effectually to secure its advantages to the two nations." The Charge 
d' Affaires of the United States in Central America, Col. John Wilhams, 
was accordingly specially instructed to assure the government of that 
country of the deep interest taken by the United States in an under- 
taking " so highly calculated to diffuse a favorable influence on the affairs 
of mankind," to investigate with the greatest care the facihties offered by 
the route, and to remit the information to the United States. But it ap- 
pears no information of the character required ever reached the American 
government. 

During this year, however, (1825,) various proposals were made to the 
government of Central America, from abroad, upon the subject ; and in 
June of that year, the National Congress, with a view of determining the 
principles upon which it desired the work undertaken, passed a decree to 
the following purport : 

" Akticle 1. Authorizes the opening of a canal, fitted for the passage of the largest ves- 
sels, in the State of Nicaragua. 

" Aet. 3. The -works to be of the most solid construction. 

" A-R.T. 3. The Government shall oflfer to the undertakers an indemnification equivalent to 
the cost and labor of the work. 

" Art. 4. The Government shall use all means of facilitating the object ; permitting the 
cutting of wood — assisting the surveyors — forwarding the plans, and generally, in every 
manner not injurious to public or private interests. 

"Aet. 5. No duty shall be charged on instruments and machinery imported for the works 
of the canal. 

" Aet. 6. The expense of the work shall he acknowledged as a national debt, and the tolls 
of the canal shall be applied to its extinguishment, after deducting the necessary costs of 
maintenance and repairs, and the support of a garrison for its defence. 

43 



674 APPENDIX. 

" Aet. T. Any dispute regarding its liquidation or proofs of outlay, sliall be detennined 
according to the laws of the republic. 

"Aet. 8. The Congress shall be entitled to establish, and at all times alter, the rates of 
toll, as it may think proper. 

" Aet. 9. The navigation shall be open to all nations, friends or neutrals, -without privi- 
lege or exclusion. 

" Aet. 10. The government shall maintain on the lake the necessary vessels for its de- 
fence. 

" Aet. 11. If invincible impediments, discovered in the course of the work, prevent its 
execution, the republic shall not be liable to make any remuneration -whatever. 

" Aet. 12. In case only a boat canal can be opened, the indemnification shall be propor- 
tioned to the smaller benefit which wiU then result to the republic." 

This decree was published jointly with another fixing six months for 
receiving proposals ; but the term designated was too short for any mea- 
sures to be taken on the part of companies or individuals, and the Con- 
gress only received a repetition of a part of the proposals before made. 

The principal of these were made by Mr. Baily and Mr. Charles Beniski 
— the first as agent of the English house of Messrs. Barclay, Herring, 
Richardson & Co., and the second of Mr. Aaron H. Palmer, of New Tort. 
Mr. Baily's offer was conditional, while Mr. Beniski's was positive, and 
was therefore accepted by the republic. The contractors, under, the name 
and style of the " Central American and United States Atlantic and Pa- 
cific Canal Company," were bound to open through Nicaragua a canal 
navigable for vessels of all sizes, and to deposit in the city of G-ranada the 
sum of $200,000 foi:;„the preliminary expenses within six months ; to erect 
fortresses for the protection of the canal, and to have the works in pro- 
gress within a period of twelve months. In compensation they were to 
have two-thirds of the profits -of the tolls upon the canal until all the cap- 
ital expended in the work was repaid, with interest at the rate of ten per 
cent., beside afterwards receiving one-half of the proceeds of the canal for 
seven years, with certain privileges for introducing steam vessels. The 
government was to put at their disposal all the documents relating to the 
subject existing in its archives, to permit the cutting of wood, and to fur- 
nish laborers at certain rates of wages. In case of non-completion, the 
works were to revert unconditionally to the republic. This contract bore 
date June 14, 1826, and the contractors at once endeavored to secure the 
cooperation of the government of the United States. A memorial was 
presented to Congress, and referred to a committee, which reported in 
due time ; but here the matter stopped, although it appears to have re- 
ceived the sanction of De Witt Clinton and other distinguished men. 

In fact, Mr. Palmer executed a deed of trust to Mr. Clinton, by which 
that gentleman, Stephen Van Renssalaer, C. D. Colden, Philip Hone, and 
Lynde CatUn, were constituted directors of the work. Mr. Clinton's part 



NEGOTIATIONS. 675 

was undertaken in entire good faith, and, as he himself expressed it, " for 
" tlie promotion of a great and good object, which should be kept free from 
" the taint of speculation." Mr. Palmer went to England in 1827, to secure 
the cooperation of British capitalists in his enterprise ; but, owing to vari- 
ous untoward circumstances, his mission proved abortive, and in the 
autumn of that year he appears to have abandoned the undertaking. 

Although the administration of Mr. Adams did not at once fall in with 
the proposition of the Central American minister, it was not from a want 
of interest in the subject, but because it did not desire to commit the coun- 
try to any specific course of conduct, until the feasibility of the enterprise 
and the leading facts connected with it should be better known and estab- 
lished. In the mean time, the principles upon which it conceived the 
work should be undertaken and executed, were well exhibited in Mr. Clay's 
letter of instructions to the ministers of the United States, commissioned 
to the famous Congress of Panama. Mr. Clay said : 

" A canal for navigation betveen the Atlantic and Pacific oceans ■will form a proper sub- 
ject of consideration at tbe Congress. That vast object, if it should ever be accomplished, 
will be interesting, in a greater or less degree, to all parts of the world ; but especially to 
this continent will accrue its greatest benefits ; and to Colombia, Mexico, Central America, 
Peru, and the United States, more than to any other of the American nations. What is to 
redound to the advantage of all America, should be effected by common means and united 
exertions, and not left to the separate and unassisted efforts of any one power. * * * If 
the work should ever be executed, so as to admit of the passage of sea vessels from one 
ocean to the other, the benefits of it ought not to be exclusively appropriated by any one 
nation, but should be extended to all parts of the globe, upon the payment of just compensa- 
tion or reasonable tolls. * * You will receive and transmit to this government any pro- 
posals that may be made, or plans that may be suggested, for its joint execution, with assur- 
ances that they will be attentively examined, with an earnest desire to reconcile the inter- 
ests and views of all the American nations." 

It will be seen that Mr. Clay, who was at that time a true exponent oi 
the American system of pohcy, regarded the construction of this work as 
an enterprise peculiarly American, to be executed by the parties most 
deeply interested in it, to be under their control, but not therefore exclu- 
sive. 

After the failure of Mr. Palmer's project, the whole matter seems to 
have been allowed to slumber until some time in October, 1828, when the 
work was proposed to be undertaken by an Association of the ISTether- 
lands, under the special patronage of the King of Holland. In March, 
1829, G-eneral Verveer arrived in G-uatemala, as plenipotentiary of the 
king, with instructions regarding the undertaking of the canal. In conse- 
quence of civil distractions, the subject was not taken up until the succeed- 
ing October, when commissioners were appointed to treat with Verveer. 
and on the 24th of July, 1830, the plan agreed upon between them was 



676 APPENDIX. 

laid before the National Congress. It was ratified on the 21st of Septem- 
ber following. The principal features of the agreement were as follows ; 

1st. The proposed canal to be open on the same terms to all nations at peace with Central 
America ; but vessels engaged in the slave trade, and all privateers, not to be allowed either 
to pass the canal or hover in the vicinity of its mouths. 

2d. Armed ships not allowed to pass without the express consent of the government of the 
republic, and this permission never to be granted to a flag at war with any other nation. 

3d. The government to use all its endeavors to have the neutrality of the canal recognized 
by aU maritime powers, as also that of the ocean for a certain extent around its mouths. 

4th. The republic to make no charge for the land used by the canal, or the raw materials 
used for its construction ; nor to impose taxes on persons employed in the work, who were 
to be under the protection of the agents of the country to which they might belong. 

5th. The work to be of sufficient dimensions to admit the largest ships ; and the execution 
to be left entirely to the parties undertaking it, and to be made wholly at their expense. 

6th. The interest on the capital expended to be ten per cent., and as security for both cap- 
ital and interest, a mortgage to be granted upon the lands for a league on both sides of the 
canal. 

7th. The canal to remain in the hands of the contractors nntU it had paid cost of construc- 
tion and repairs, with ten per cent, annual interest thereon, and also until it had paid three 
millions of dollars, to be advanced as a loan to the government, and then to revert uncondi- 
tionally to the republic. 

8th. The rate of tolls to be regulated by the government and contractors joiatly, but 
always in such a manner as to give it a decided advantage over Cape Horn. 

9th. A free commercial city to be founded on the banks, or at one of the entrances of the 
canal, which, while enjoying entire freedom of trade, religious tolerance, a municipal gov- 
ernment, trial by jury, and exemption from military service, to constitute nevertheless a 
part of the republic, and to be under the special protection thereof. 

10th. In respect to navigation and commerce generally, the Netherlands to be put upon a 
footing of equaUty with the United States. 

Arrangements were accordingly made to send envoys to the Nether- 
lands, with full powers to perfect the plan ; and, for a time, the work 
seemed in a fair way to a commencement ; but the revolution in Belgium 
and its separation from Holland, put an end to these hopes. The news of 
these events was received with profound regret. Mr. Henry Savage, 
TJ. S. Consul, in a letter to Mr. Van Buren, dated Guatemala, December 
3, 1830, said : " AH concur, and every one now seems tacitly to look for- 
"ward to the United States for the completion of this grand project. 
" They say that the United States, identified in her institutions with this 
" government, ought to have the preference." 

In 1832, endeavors were made to renew the negotiations •with. Holland, 
and the State of Nicaragua passed resolutions agreeing to the propositions 
of the Dutch envoy, but nothing was accomplished. 

Upon the 3d of March, 1835, pubhc attention having again been directed 
to the subject, a resolution passed the Senate of the United States, " that 
" the President be requested to consider the expediency of opening nego- 
" tiations with the governments of other nations, and particularly with the 



NEGOTIATIONS. 677 

" governments of Central America and New G-ranada, for the purpose of 
" effectually protectiug, by suitable treaty stipulations with them, such in- 
" dividuals or companies as may undertake to open a communication from 
" the Atlantic to the Pacific ocean, by means of a ship canal across the 
" isthmus which connects North and South America, and of securing for 
" ever, by means of such stipulations, the free and equal right of navi- 
" gating such canal to all nations, on the payment of such reasonable tolls 
" as may be estabUshed to compensate the capitalists who may engage in 
" such undertaking and complete the work," 

Under this resolution, a special agent (Mr. Charles Biddle) was ap- 
pointed by G-eneral Jackson, to proceed without delay, by the most direct 
route, to the port of San Juan de Nicaragua, ascend the river San Juan 
to the Lake of Nicaragua, and thence proceed across the continent, by 
the contemplated route of the proposed canal or railroad, to the Pacific 
ocean ; after which examination, he was directed to repair to Guatemala, 
the capital of the repubhc, and, with the aid of Mr. De Witt, the Charg^ 
d' Affaires of the United States, procure all such pubhc documents con- 
nected with the subject as might be in existence, and especially copies of 
aU such laws as had been passed, and contracts and conventions as had 
been made, to carry into effect the undertaking, and also all plans, sur- 
veys, or estimates in relation to it. From Gruatemala he was directed to 
proceed to Panama, and make observations and inquiries relative to the 
proposed connection of the two oceans at that point. Unfortunately, 
from the difficulties of procuring conveyances to San Juan, the agent went 
to Panama first. Prom adverse circumstances, he never reached Nic- 
aragua, and died soon after his return to the United States. He never- 
theless made a partial report concerning the isthmus of Panama, to the 
effect that it was not practicable for a canal. 

In 1837, the subject was again taken up in Central America, by Gen- 
eral Morazan, who resolved to have the proposed line of the canal prop- 
erly surveyed, intending to raise a loan in Europe for the execution of the 
work. Mr. John Baily was employed for the former purpose, but his 
work was brought to a sudden close by the dissolution of the government 
of the repubhc. He nevertheless made a survey of the narrow isthmus 
intervening between Lake Nicaragua and the Pacific, and also some ob- 
servations on the river San Juan. 

In 1838 a convention was made between the States of Nicaragua and 
Honduras, under which Mr. Peter Rouchaud was authorized to conclude 
an agreement in Prance, for the formation of a company to make a canal, 
and for other objects ; but he effected nothing. The same result attended 



678 APPENDIX. 

the efforts of Senor Don George Viteii, subsequently Bishop of San Sal- 
vador, and afterwards of Nicaragua, who was sent ambassador to Rome. 

In the same year, Mr. G-eorge Holdship, representing a company com- 
posed chiefly of citizens of the United States, residing in New Orleans 
and New York, arrived in Central America, with a view of contracting 
for the opening of the canal with the general government. Finding that 
Nicaragua had "pronounced" against Morazan, and assumed an independ- 
ent position, he proceeded to that State, where he at once entered into a 
contract, which provided for opening the canal, for the estabhshment of a 
bank to assist the enterprise, and for colonization on an extensive scale. 
He returned to the United States — and the matter ended. 

This year was also signalized by some further movements on the sub- 
ject in the United States. A petition was presented to Congress, signed 
by several citizens of New Tork and Philadelphia, viz., Aaron Clark, Wm. 
A. Duer, Herman Leroy, Matthew Carey, and Wm. EadcUff, setting forth 
that the wants of trade required the opening of a ship communication be- 
tween the' Atlantic and Pacific ; that the accumulation of wealth aniong 
nations, and the prevalence of peace seemed to indicate a favorable oppor- 
tunity for the undertaking ; and recommending " that an exl^nsive and 
" powerful combination should be formed, and the most judicious and lib- 
" eral measures adopted, for the purpose of carrying the plan into effect, 
" and securing its benefits permanently to the world at large." This me- 
morial was referred to a committee, of which Chas. P. Mercer ,^as chair- 
man, who, March 2, 1839, made a report upon it, concluding with the 
following resolution, which was adopted : 

" Resolved, That the President of the United States be requested to consider the expe- 
" dienoy of opening or continuing negotiations with the governments of other nations, and 
" particularly with those the territorial jurisdiction of which comprehends the Isthmus of 
" Panama, and to which the United States have accredited ministers or agents, for the pur- 
"pose of ascertaining or effecting a communication between the Atlantic and Pacific oceans, 
"by the construction of a ship canal; and of securing forever, by suitable treaty stipula- 
" tions, the free and equal right of navigating such canal to all nations, on the payment of 
" reasonable tolls." 

The subsequent action, both of the Executive and Congress, was 
directed to the opening of a route across the Isthmus of Panama, and re- 
sulted in the negotiation of a treaty between the United States and New 
Granada, by which the neutraUty of the Isthmus was guarantied by the 
former, in consideration of a free transit conceded by the latter. Under 
this treaty, the existing Panama Eailroad Company was organized, and 
that route of communication between the two oceans placed in American 
hands. 



NEGOTIATIONS. 679 

The disturbances incident on the dissolution of the republic of Central 
America precluded any serious attention to the project of a canal from 
1838 until 1844, when Seiior Don Francisco Oastellon, having been ap- 
pointed minister from Nicaragua to France, and failing to interest that 
government, entered into a contract with a Belgian company, under the 
auspices of the Belgian king, for the construction of the work. The grant 
was for sixty years, at the end of which time it was to revert to the State 
without indemnity, the State receiving meantime an interest of ten per 
cent, in the profits. 

StiU later, in AprU, 1846, a contract was made by Mr. Marcoleta, Nica- 
raguan Charge d' Affairs to Belgium, with Louis Napoleon Bonaparte, 
then a prisoner at Ham, which differed but httle from the preceding one, 
except that the canal was to be called " Ganal Napoleon de Nicaragua^ 
Beyond the publication of a pamphlet upon the subject, under the initials 
I of L. N. Bonaparte, this attempt also proved abortive.^ 

So the matter rested until 1849, when the acquisition of California by 
th$ United States, and the discovery there of vast mineral wealth, again 
directed public attention to the project in a more serious manner than at 
any previous period. It now began to assume a practical form, and, as a 
consequence, there was a renewal of propositions to the government of 
Nicaragua. The first of these, in the form of bases subject to future ad- 
justment, came, under date of 16th of February, from Mr. Wm. Wheel- 
wright, the projector of the British line of steamers on the western coast 
of South America, on behalf of an English company. It embodied, sub- 
stantially, the provisions of the contract of 1844 with the Belgian com- 
pany, but was never acted, upon by the Nicaraguan government. 

The second was in the form of a detailed contract, and was entered into 
between Mr. D. T. Brown, representing certain citizens of New Tork, 
and General MuiSoz, Commissioner of the Nicaraguan government, on the 
14th of March, 1849. Although it was very promptly ratified by the 
executive, it was not ratified by the company within the time stipulated 
by its terms. 

In the meantime, however, namely, as early as January, 1848, when it 

1 The folloTnng paragraph from the pamphlet in question furnishes a remarkable commen- 
tary on the " enlightened views and liberal policy" attributed to the emperor by his partisans : 

" France, England, Holland, Russia, and the United States have a great commercial inter- 
est in the establishment of communication between the two oceans ; but England has, more 
than the other powers, apolitical interest in the execution of the project. England wiU see 
with pleasure Central America become a flourishing and powerful State, which will establish 
a balance ofpoioer, by creating in Spanish America a new centre of active enterprise power- 
ful enough to give rise to a great feeling of nationality, and to prevent, by backing Mexico, 
any further encroachment from the north." 



680 APPENDIX. 

became evident that the Mexican war could only terminate in large terri- 
torial acquisitions to the United States, the port of San Juan de Nica- 
ragua, the only possible eastern terminus of the proposed canal, was 
seized by Great Britain, under the pretext of supporting the territorial 
rights of a savage, facetiously styled " King of the Mosquitos." This act 
could not be viewed with indifference by the government of our own 
country ; for it not only violated the principle constantly recognized and 
asserted by the TJnited States, that the routes of transit between the two 
oceans should be free to the whole world, uncontrolled by any great mar- 
itime power, but it violated also a principle early and well established 
among the American nations, namely, the exclusion of all foreign, and 
especially monarchical, interference from the domestic and international 
affairs of this continent. The real purpose of the seizure of San Juan was 
too apparent to escape detection; and the government of the United 
States, upon these principles, would have been bound to interpose against 
the consummation of the felony. But it was specially bound to interpose, 
after it had been earnestly and repeatedly sohcited to do so by the injured 
republic in question. These solicitations were forcibly made, in letters 
addressed to the President of the United States by the Supreme Director 
of Nicaragua, dated Dec. 15, 1847, as also in letters from the Secretary of 
State of that Repubhc of the dates respectively of Nov. 12, 1847, and 
March 17, 1848. " The obvious design of Great Britain," said the 
Director of Nicaragua, " in seizing upon the port of San Juan, and setting 
" up pretensions to sovereignty, in behalf of savage tribes, within the ter- 
"ritories of Nicaragua, is to found colonies, and to make herself master of 
" the prospective interoceanic canal, for the construction of which this 
"isthmus alone has the requisites of feasibihty and facility." 

Although the matter was thus brought before the American govern- 
ment, it does not seem to have eUcited any action beyond certain vague 
instructions from Mr. Buchanan, then Secretary of State, to Mr. Hise, 
appointed Charge d' Affairs to Central America. " The object of G-reat 
" Britain in this seizure," said Mr. Buchanan, " is evident from the poUcy 
" which she has uniformly pursued throughout her history, of seizing upon 
" every valuable commercial point in the world, whenever circumstances 
" have placed it in her power. Her purpose probably is to obtain the 
" control of the route for a raUroad and canal between the Atlantic and 
-'' Pacific oceans, by way of Lake Nicarag-ua." But whUe insisting upon 
the policy of " excluding all interference on the part of European govern- 
'* ments in the domestic affairs of the American republics," Mr. Buchanan 
gave no specific instructions as to the line of conduct to be pursued by 
Mr. Hise in respect to the proposed canal or the British usurpation. He 



NEGOTIATIONS. 681 

confined himself to a denial of the British pretensions, and concluded by 
observing that " the government of the United States has not yet deter- 
" mined what course it will pursue in regard to the encroachments of the 
" British government." , 

About this time, viz., under date of April 4, 1849, Mr. Mannmg, British 
Vice Consul in Nicaragua, wrote to Lord Palmerston as follows : 

" My opinion, if your lordship will allow me to express it, as regards this country for the 
present, is, that it will he overrun by American adventurers, and consequently bring on Her 
Majestj^s government disagreeable communications with that of the United States, which 
possibly might be avoided by an immediate negotiation with Mr. CastUlon for a protectorate 
and transit favorable to British interests. * * The welfare of my country, and the desire 
of its obtaining the control of so desirable a spot in the commercial world, and free it from 
the competition of so adventurous a race as the North Americans, induces me to address 
your lordship with such freedom." 

On his arrival in Central America, Mr. Hise became speedily convinced 
that the whole scope of British policy in that country was directed to ac- 
quiring permanent control of the Nicaraguan isthmus. Deeply impressed 
with the importance to the United States of a free transit across it, 
although not empowered to treat with Nicaragua, he nevertheless con- 
ceived himself authorized, under the circumstances, in opening negotia- 
tions with the government of that repubhc. He therefore requested the 
appointment of a commissioner for that purpose to meet him in Guate- 
mala, where, upon the 21st of June, 1849, a special convention relating to 
this subject was agreed upon. The provisions of this convention, it is not 
to be denied, were, in some respects, extraordinary, and not in entire har- 
mony with the established exterior policy of the United States. It pro- 
vided, 

1st. That the United States should enjoy the perpetual right of way through the territories 
of Nicaragua by any means of conveyance then existing or which might thereafter be devised. 

2d. That the United States, or a company chartered by it, might construct a railroad or 
canal from one ocean to the other, and occupy such lands and use such natural materials 
and products of the country as might be necessary for the purpose. 

3d. That the United States should have the right to erect such forts on the line, or at the 
extremities of the proposed work, as might be deemed necessary or proper for its protection. 

4th. That the vessels and citizens of all nations at peace with both contracting powers 
might pass freely through the canal. 

5th. That a section of land two leagues square at either termination should be set apart to 
serve as the sites of two free cities, under the protection of both governments, the inhabit- 
ants of which should enjoy complete municipal and religious freedom, trial by jury, exemp- 
tion from all military duty, and from taxation, etc., etc. 

6th. That in return for these and other concessions, which it is unnecessary to enumerate, 
the United States should defend and protect Nicaragua, her territorial rights, her sover- 
eignty, preserve the peace and neutrality of her coasts, etc., etc., which guarantees were 
to extend to any community of States of which Nicaragua might voluntarily become a 
member. 



682 APPENDIX. 

But while Mr. Hise was thus occupied in Central America, the admin- 
istration of General Taylor had been inaugurated. The affairs of that 
country attracted his immediate attention. The letters addressed by the 
government of Nicaragua to Mr. Polk and Mr. Buchanan, and which had 
remained unanswered, were replied to in the friendliest spirit ; and before 
the expiration of the first month of Greneral Taylor's term of offi.ce, Mr. 
Hise was recalled, and the writer of these pages appointed in his stead, as 
Charge d' Affaires of the United Stales to Gruatemala, besides' receiving 
special commissions to the other States of Central America, with full 
powers to treat with them separately, on all matters affecting their rela- 
tions with this repubhc. It will be seen, therefore, that Mr. Hise was not 
only not empowered to treat with Nicaragua, but also that his negotia- 
tions were undertaken after the date of his letter of recall, which, how- 
ever, failed to reach him until after the signing of the special convention, 
and after my arrival in the country. Under these circumstances, and hav- 
ing meantioae determined on a specific line of policy, this convention was 
neither approved by the American government, nor accepted by that of 
Nicaragua. 

The spirit in which the matter was taken up by the administration of 
Greneral Taylor, and the principles upon which its action was predicated, 
are fully and clearly exhibited in the following passages from the instruc- 
tions addressed to me by Mr. Clayton, Secretary of State. After disprov- 
ing, in an unanswerable manner, the pretensions of Grreat Britain on the 
Mosquito Shore, Mr. Clayton submits the following significant question, 
and equally significant reply : 

" Will other nations interested in a free passage to and from the Pacific, by the river San 
Juan and Lake Nicaragua, tamely allow that interest to be thwarted by the pretensions of 
Great Britain ? As regards the United States, the question may confidently be answered in 
the negative. 

" Having now," continues the Secretary of State, "sufiiciently apprised you of the views 
of the Department in regard to the title to the Mosquito Coast, I desire you to understand 
how important it is deemed by the President so to conduct all our negotiations on the sub- 
ject of the Nicaraguan passage as not to involve this country in any entangling alliances on 
the one hand, or any unnecessary controversy on the other. We desire no monopoly of the 
right of way for our commerce, and we cannot submit to it if claimed for that of any other 
nation. We only ask an equal right of passage for aU nations on the same terms — a passage 
unincumbered by oppressive restrictions, either from the local government within whose 
sovereign limits it may be effected, or from the proprietors of the canal when accomplished. 
To this end we are willing to enter into treaty stipulations with the government of Nicaragua, 
that both governments shall protect and defend the proprietors who may succeed in cutting 
the canal and opening water communication between the two oceans for our commerce. 
Nicaragua will be at liberty to enter into the same treaty stipulations with any other nation 
that may claim to enjoy the same benefits and will agree to be bound by the same con- 
ditions. We should naturally be proud of such an achievement as an American work ; but 
if European aid be necessary to accomplish it, why should we repudiate it, seeing that oui 



NEGOTIATIONS. 683 

object is as houest as it is openly avowed, to claim no peculiar privileges, no exclusive right, 
no monopoly of commercial intercourse, but to see that the work is dedicated to the benefit 
of mankind, to be used by all on the same terms with us, and consecrated to the enjoyment 
and diffusion of the unnumbered and inestimable blessings which must flow from it to all 
the civilized world?" 

On arrhdng in Nicaragua, I found there a gentleman representing cer- 
tain citizens of New York, the object of whose mission was to procure a 
charter or grant for the construction of a canal through the territories of 
that republic. Having previously entertained so many projects for the 
accompHshment of this object, aU of which had failed, the government of 
Nicaragua was indisposed to listen to any further propositions until it was 
assured, as I was authorized to assure it, that the American government 
was wUIing to extend its guarantees to any charter, of a proper character, 
which might now be granted. Under the confidence inspired by this 
assurance, it proceeded with alacrity to arrange the terms of a charter, 
more liberal than any ever before conceded, which was signed on the 
27th of August, 1849, and ratified on the 23d of the month following. 

The terms of this grant are very weU known ; yet the following synop- 
sis of its provisions wiU not prove out of place in this connection. It pro- 
vides, 

1st. That the American Atlantic and Pacific Ship-Canal Company may construct a ship 
canal, at its own expense, from the port of San Juan, or any more feasible point on the At- 
lantic, to the port of Eealejo, or any other point within the territories of the republic, on the 
Pacific, and make use of all lands, waters, or natural materials of the country, for the enter- 
prise. 

2d. The dimensions of the canal shall he sufl[iciently great to admit vessels of aU sizes. 

Sd. The grant is for the period of eighty-five years from the completion of the work ; the 
preliminary surveys to be commenced within twelve months ; the work to be completed in 
twelve years, unless unforeseen events, such as earthquakes or wars, shall intervene to pre- 
vent it ; if not completed within that time, the charter to be forfeit, and whatever work may 
have been done to revert to the State ; at the end of eighty-five years the work to revert to 
the State, free from all indemnity for the capital invested ; the company, nevertheless, to 
receive fifteen per cent, annually of the net profits, for ten years thereafter, if the entire cost 
shall not exceed $20,000,000 ; but if it does exceed that sum, then it shall receive the same 
percentage for twenty years thereafter. 

4th. The company to pay to the State ten thousand dollars upon the ratification of the 
contract, and ten thousand dollars annually, until the completion of the work ; also, to give 
to the State two hundred thousand dollars of stock in the canal, upon the issue of stock ; the 
State to have the privilege of taking five hundred thousand dollars of stock in the enter- 
prise ; to receive, for the first twenty years, twenty per cent, annually out of the net profits 
of the canal, after deducting the interest on the capital actually invested, at the rate of seven 
per cent. ; and also to receive twenty-five per cent, thereafter, until the expiration of the 
grant 

5th. The company to have the exclusive right of navigating the interior waters of the 
State by steam, and the privilege, within the twelve years allowed for constructing the 
canal, of opening any land or other route or means of transit or conveyance across the 
State ; in consideration of which, the company shall pay, irrespective of interest, ten per 



684 APPENDIX. 

cent, of the net profits of such transit to the State, and transport, both on such route, and on 
the canal, when finished, the oflSlcers of the government and its employees, when required to 
do so, free of charge. 

6th. The canal to be open to the vessels of all nations, subject only to certain fixed and 
uniform rates of toU, to he established by the company, with the sanction of the State, grad- 
uated to induce the largest and most extended business by this route ; these rates not to be 
altered without six months' previous notice, both In Nicaragua and the United States. 

7th, AU disputes to be settled by referees or commissioners, to be appointed in a specified 
manner. 

8th. AU machinery and other articles introduced into the State for the use of the com- 
pany, to enter free of duty ; and all persons in its employ to enjoy all the privileges of citi- 
zens, without being subjected to taxation or military service. 

9th. The State concedes to the company, for purposes of colonization, eight sections of 
land on the line of the canal, in the valley of the river San Juan, each six miles square, and 
at least three miles apart, with the right of alienating the same, under certain reservations ; 
all settlers on these lands to be subject to the laws of the country, being, however, exempt 
for ten years from all taxes, and also from aU public service, as soon as each colony shall 
contain fifty settlers. 

10th. "Art. xxxvL It is expressly stipulated that the citizens, vessels, products, and 
manufactures of all nations shall be permitted to pass upon the proposed canal through the 
territories of Nicaragua, subject to no other nor higher duties, charges, or taxes than shall 
be imposed upon those of the United States ; provided always, that such nations shall first 
enter into the same treaty stipulations and guarantees, respecting said canal, as may be en- 
tered into between the State of Nicaragua and the United States." 

Article xxsvi., which is quoted in full, was drawn up by myself, and 
its insertion insisted on, in conformity with my instructions. Its simple 
object was, to put upon the same footing with the United States every 
nation which should undertake the same obligations with ourselves, in 
respect to the proposed work. These obligations were distinctly set forth 
in the treaty of commerce and friendship which was negotiated, simul- 
taneously, with the Nicaraguan government, and which, iti Article xxxv., 
provided as follows : 

" ASTIOLE XXXV. 

" It is stipulated by and between the high contracting parties — 

"1st. That the citizens, vessels, and merchandise of the United States shall enjoy in all 
the ports and harbors of Nicaragua, upon both oceans, a total exemption from all port- 
charges, tonnage or anchorage duties, or any other similar charges now existing, or which 
may hereafter be established, in manner the same as if said ports had been declared free 
ports. And it is further stipulated, that the right of way or transit across the territories of 
Nicaragua, by any route or upon any mode of communication at present existing, or which 
may hereafter be constructed, shall at all times be open and free to the government and citi- 
zens of the United States, for all lawful purposes whatever ; and no tolls, duties, or charges 
of any kind shall be imposed upon the transit, in whole or part, by such modes of communi- 
cation, of vessels of war, or other property belonging to the government of the United States, 
or on public mails sent under the authority of the same, or upon persons in its employ, nor 
upon citizens of the United States, nor upon vessels belonging to them. And it is also stip- 
ulated that all lawful produce, manufactures, merchandise, or other property belonging to 
citizens of the United States, passing from one ocean to the other, in either direction, for the 



NEGOTIATIONS. 685 

purpose of exportation to foreign countries, shall not be subject to any Import or export 
duties whatever ; or if citizens of the United States, having introduced such produce, manu- 
factures, or merchandise into the State of Nicaragua, for sale or exchange, shall, within 
three years thereafter, determine to export the same, they shall be entitled to drawback 
equal to four fifths of the amount of duties paid upon their importation. 

" 2d. And inasmuch as a contract was entered into on the twenty-seventh day of August, 
1849, between the republic of Nicaragua and a company of citizens of the United States, 
styled the ' American Atlantic and Pacific Ship Canal Company,' and in order to secure the 
construction and permanence of the great work thereby contemplated, both high contracting 
parties do severally and jointly agree to protect and defend the above-named company in 
the full and perfect enjoyment of said work, from its inception to its completion, and after 
its completion, from any acts of invasion, forfeiture, or violence, from whatever quarter the 
same may proceed ; and to give full effect to the stipulations here made, and to secure for 
the benefit of mankind the uninterrupted advantages of such communication from sea to sea, 
the United States distinctly recognizes the rights of sovereignty and property which the 
State of Nicaragua possesses in and over the line of said canal, and for the same reason 
guarantees, positively and efficaciously, the entire neutrality of the same, so long as it shall 
remain under the control of citizens of the United States, and so long as the United States 
shall enjoy the privileges secured to them in the preceding section of this article. 

" 3d. But if, by any contingency, the above-named ' American Atlantic and Pacific Ship 
Canal Company' shall fail to comply with the terms of their contract with the State of Nica- 
ragua, all the rights and privileges which said contract confers shall accrue to any company 
of citizens of the United States which shall, within one year after the official declaration of 
failure, undertake to comply with its provisions, so far as the same may at that time be ap- 
plicable, provided the company thus assuming said contract shall first present to the Presi- 
dent and Secretary of State of the United States satisfactory assurances of their intention 
and ability to comply with the same ; of -which satisfactory assurances the signature of the 
Secretary of State and the seal of his Department shall be complete evidence. 

" 4th. And it is also agreed, on the part of the republic of Nicaragua, that none of the 
rights, privileges, and immunities guarantied, and by the preceding articles, but especially 
by the first section of this article, conceded to the United States and its citizens, shall accrue 
to any other nation, or to its citizens, except such nation shall first enter into the same 
treaty stipulations, for the defence and protection of the proposed great interoceanic canal, 
which have been entered into by the United States, in terms the same with those embraced 
in section 2d of this article." 

The provisions of this article "were not only in conformity with my in- 
structions, but their design and inevitable tendency were to make it to the 
interest of every nation in the world to maintain the neutrahty of the 
canal, and the iadependence and territorial integrity of Nicaragua. They 
secured to the United States every desirable privilege in her intercourse, 
commercial or otherwise, with Nicaragua .,• yet those privileges were in 
no wise exclusive ; they would accrue to every other nation, upon the 
same conditions; conditions to which no nation except England could 
possibly object, and she only in the event of insisting on her pretensions 
over the Mosquito Shore. 

And this is precisely the reason why the treaty containing this article 
was met by the unqualified hostility of the British government ; it placed 
England in a position of antagonism to the whole world, and made it to 



686 APPENDIX. 

the interest of every maritime country that she should relinquish her hold 
on San Juan. To avoid the alternative which the consummation of this 
treaty would impose, the utmost efforts of her diplomacy were put forth 
to defeat its acceptance by the contracting parties. In Nicaragua these 
efforts signally failed ; the treaty was unanimously ratified by the Legis- 
lative Chambers, simultaneously with the canal contract, on the 23d of 
y^ September, 1849. It was at once dispatched to the United States, ap- 
proved by G-eneral Taylor and his cabinet, and submitted, in conformity 
with the requirements of the Constitution, to the Senate for its ratifica- 
tion. 

This step caused the greatest alarm in the British legation, and Sir 
Edward Bulwer put forth every influence at his command to postpone, 
if he could not defeat, the approval of the Senate, which would have 
brought the whole question of British pretensions to an open issue and a 
definite conclusion. His exertions to this end were active and unremit- 
ing. In the Senate chamber and out of it, pubhcly and privately, over the 
council board and over the festive board, everywhere and at all times, this 
restless and unscrupulous agent wrought out his policy of opposition. His 
plans were greatly assisted by the distractions of Congress, which was at 
that moment engaged in the exciting decennial task of " saving the 
Union," to the utter neglect of all other business. The blunt honesty and 
singleness of purpose of G-eneral Taylor, it is true, were unassailable ; but 
the weakness and credulity of his Secretary of State proved more than a 
compensating advantage to Sir Henry in his diplomatic campaign. He 
prevailed upon this officer to enter into a convention, signed April 19, and 
proclaimed July 5, 1850, which has since obtained notoriety as the " Clay- 
ton and Bulwer treaty," and has created infinitely greater trouble than it 
professed to cure. It provided in general terms for the joint protection of 
the proposed canal by Great Britain and the United States, as follows : 

1st. That neither party "will ever ohtain or maintain for itself any exclusive control 
over" the proposed canal, or erect fortifications commanding the same or in its vicinity, 
" or occupy, colonize, or assume or exercise dominion over Nicaragua, Costa Eica, the Mos- 
quito Shore, or any part of Central America, nor make use of any protection which either 
affords, or any alliance which either has or may have, for the purpose of erecting, or fortify- 
ing, or colonizing the region ahove named, or any part of it, or for the purpose of asswm- 
ing or ecserdsing dominion over the same," nor will either party make use of its relations 
with those countries to procure exclusive privileges for itself or its subjects in the proposed 
canal. 

2d. Neither party wiU capture or detain the vessels of the other while passing through the 
canal, or while within distance of either of its extremities. 

3d. To protect the parties undertaking the construction of the canal, from " unjust deten- 
tion, seizure, or violence." 

4th. To use their influence respectively to facilitate the work, and their good offices to 
procure the establishment of a free port at either end. 



NEGOTIATIONS. 687 

5tli. To guarantee the neutrality of the canal, so long as the proprietors shall not make 
unfair discriminations on vessels in transit, or impose unreasonable tolls; to enter into 
treaties with the Central American States to promote the work ; to interpose their good of- 
fices to settle all disputes concerning it, etc., etc. 

6th. Both governments to lend their support to such company as shall first present evi- 
dences of its intention and ahility to undertake the work, with the consent of the local gov- 
ernments ; one year to be allowed from the date of the ratification of the convention, for the 
company now in existence to "present evidence of sufficient capital subscribed to accomplish 
the underkiking" it being understood that if, in that time, no such evidence shall be pre- 
sented, then both governments shall be at liberty to afford their protection to any person or 
company which shall then be prepared to commence and proceed with the work in question. 

Tth. The same general protection to extend to every practicable route of communication 
across the continent, on the same principles. , 



1 This treaty was ratified by the United States, less on the merits of the guarantee which 
it extended to the projected canal, than because it was understood to put an end to the ob- 
noxious protectorate, amounting to absolute dominion, of Great Britain on the Mosquito 
Shore. Such was the understanding of the treaty by Mr. Clayton, the negotiator on the part 
of the United States, who, in a despatch under date of May 7, 1850, said, in reference to it: 

" Depaetment of State, ) 
" Washington, May 7, 1850. ) 
" E. Gr. Squtee, etc., etc. : 

"Sie: — * » * It is proper that I should now inform you that I have negotiated a 
treaty with Sir Henry Bulwer, the object of which is to secure the protection of the British 
government to the Nicaraguan canal, and to liberate Central America from the dominion of 
any foreign power, 

" I hope and believe that this treaty will prove equally honorable both to Great Britain 
and the United States, the more especially as it secures the weak sister republics of Central 
America from foreign aggression. All other nations that shall navigate the canal will have 
to become guarantors of the neutrality of Central America and the Mosquito Coast. The 
agreement is, ' not to erect or maintain any fortifications commanding the canal, or in the 
vicinity thereof; nor to occupy, fortify, colonize, or assume or exercise any dominion what- 
ever over any part of Nicaragua, Costa Eica, the Mosquito Coast, or Central America ; nor 
to make use of any protection or alliance, for any of these purposes.' 

" Great Britain having thus far made an agreement with us for the great and philanthro- 
pic purpose of opening the ship communication through the isthmus, it wiU now be most 
desirable immediately after the ratification of the treaty, on both sides, that you should cul- 
tivate the most friendly relations with the British agents in that country, who wUl hereafter 
have to devote their energies and cooperation with ours, to the accomplishment of the great 
work designed by the treaty. Endness and conciliation are most earnestly recommended 
by me to you. I trust that means will speedily be adopted by Great Britain to extinguish 
the Indian title, with the help of the Nicaraguans, or the company, within what we consider 
to be the limits of Nicaragua, We have never acknowledged, and never can acknowledge, 
the existence of any claim of sovereignty in the Mosquito king, or any other Indian in Amer- 
ica. To do so, would be to deny the title of the United States to our own territories. Hav- 
ing always regarded an Indian title as a mere right Of occupancy, we can never agree that 
such a title should be treated otherwise than as a thing to be extinguished at the will of the 
discoverer of the country: Upon the ratification of the treaty, Great Britain will no longer 
have any interest to deny this principle, which she has recognized in every other case in 
common with us. Her protectorate will be reduced to a shadow — ' Stat nominis umbra; 
for she can neither occupy, fortify, nor colonize, or exercise dominion or control in any part 



688 APPENDIX. 

Within a week after the promulgation of this convention, G-en. Taylor 
died. This event was followed by an entire change in the foreign poHcy 
of the government, which during the whole of Mr. Fillmore's administra- 
tion vibrated between the extremes of gross subserviency and indecent 
bravado. The British envoy deemed the opportunity favorable for his 
purpose, and redoubled his exertions to procure the rejection of the treaty 
with Nicaragua, or its essential modification, so as to do away with the 
alternative, so fatal to British designs, which its terms imposed. Commu- 
nication after communication reached the State Department from this 
zealous officer, in which the circumstance that General Taylor's adminis- 
tration had condescended to enter into treaty relations with Nicaragua 
was abundantly ridiculed, and the feeble government of that State not 
only characterized as ignorant, weak, and poor, but unsparingly denounced 
as faithless and corrupt. A special point of objection to the treaty, and 
that on which the envoy placed the greatest stress, was its incompatibility 
(as he alleged) with his convention with Mr. Clayton. That gentleman, 
in fact, was accused of duplicity and bad faith in permitting the Nicaragua 
treaty to rest in the hands of the Senate, which might at any time take it 
up for ratification, and thus topple down the cunning diplomatic fabric 
that he had raised.^ These appeals and representations were addressed 
to a willing ear, and on the 29th of September, 1850, Sir Henry exult- 
ingly wrote to Lord Palmerston that " Mr. Webster furthermore said, that 
he should recommend the Senate to do nothing further, for the present, in 
respect to Mr. Squier's treaty." In what form that recommendation was 
made is not known ; it is perhaps well for the memory of the dead, it cer- 
tainly is for the credit of American statesmanship, that the details of this 
surrender of American dignity, honor, and interests He under " the seal of 
secrecy." It is enough to know that soon after the date of Sir Henry's 
triumphant announcement to Lord Palmerston, Congress adjourned with- 
out action on the treaty. The next session passed with the same result, 
leaving on the minds of the Nicaraguan people a profound impression of 
broken faith and impaired national honor. 

Eeturning now to the special subject of the proposed interoceanic canal, 

of the Mosquito Coast or Central America. To attempt to do either of these things, after the 
exchange of ratifications, wonld inevitably produce a rupture with the United States. By 
the terms neither party can occupy to protect, nor protect to occupy. 

*********** 
(Signed) " John M. Clatton." 

1 See Letters of Sir Henry Bnlwer to Lord Palmerston and Mr. Webster, pp. TO, 71 of 
" Correspondence with the United States respecting Central Anxerica," printed by order of 
Parliament, 1856. 



NEGOTIATIONS. 689 

we find the " American Atlantic and Pacific Canal Company" so far com- 
plying with its charter as to send out a corps of engineers, under Colonel 
Cliilds, to survey the hne of the work, with the results set forth in a pre- 
ceding chapter. The expedition had not been long in the field, however, 
before it became obvious that the undertaking would prove of a much 
more formidable character than had been supposed, and that the whole 
idea of constructing a canal conformably to the charter must be aban- 
doned. The survey was nevertheless continued, and an apparent compli- 
ance with the letter of the charter kept up, while the grantees dispatched 
one of their own number to Nicaragua with the view of procuring a sep- 
aration of the privilege of exclusive steam-navigation, in the interior waters 
of the State, fi-om the more serious obligations of the canal contract, and 
to secure other additional privileges necessary to estabhsh a monopoly of 
transit. This exclusive privilege having been principally conceded for the 
piu-pose of facilitating the construction of the canal, and regarding the 
attempt to proctu'e the separation as covering a design to abandon the 
proposed canal, by securing independently all that could, for many years 
at least, prove of value, the government of Nicaragua at first refused its 
assent to the application. Political distiu'bances subsequently occurring, 
the constituted authorities of the State were overthrown, and two dis- 
tinct governments installed, one at Leon, another at G-ranada. AvaiHng 
himself of the necessities of the latter, in respect of arms and money, the 
agent of the company succeeded in obtaining from it the concessions de- 
sired, although under protest from the government estabhshed in Leon. 
"With this contested if not invalid concession he returned to New York, 
and the California emigration being then at its height, a company was 
readily formed imder it, with the denomination of the " Nicaragua Acces- 
sory Transit Company," which, after an infamous career of deception and 
fraud, the history whereof is written in the proceedings of our courts of 
law, finally broke up, disastrously, fi?om internal dissensions. With the 
organization of this company, the anterior canal company was practically 
dissolved, nor has it siace been heard of, except in connection with some 
abortive attempts to give currency to certain docimaents called " canal 
rights," issued by the grantees of the canal, before the supplementary con- 
cession was made, and before the original charter became forfeited for 
non user. By the provisions of that charter the canal was to be completed 
within twelve years, ten of which have elapsed without action, and con- 
sequently any efibrt to represent the "American Atlantic and Pacific 
Ship Canal Company" as having a legal or even constructive existence can 
only be characterized as an impudent attempt at imposture. 

As already said, the results of CoL Childs' survey in Nicaragua were 

44 



690 APPENDIX. 

such as to discourage any idea of opening a canal through that country, 
at a cost within the range of legitimate enterprise. Subsequent efforts to 
find other and more practicable canal routes, at Darien and Atrato, were 
unsuccessful, and the surveys of Maj. Barnard at Tehuantepec proved 
that a canal at that point was simply impossible. The public mind, fur- 
thermore, having now for the first time taken up the question of a canal, 
from a practical point of view, soon settled down into the conviction that 
however desirable a canal might be for certain purposes, railways would 
far better subserve the more important and essential requirements of 
travel and of trade. This conviction gathered strength from the experi- 
ence of the Panama railway, which, notwithstanding its deficiencies in 
position and ports, and the deadhness of its climate, was found adequate 
to the general requhements of commerce. These considerations, still 
more than the distracted pohtieal condition of Nicaragua, were effectual 
to divert the public mind from, the subject of the proposed canal, and it 
was allowed to rest in abeyance, and probably would have gone entirely 
out of sight for the remainder of this century, had not attention been 
called to it again by the fantastic proceedings of a certain Monsieur Felix 
BeUy, of Paris, " pubHcist, and knight of the orders of San Maurice and 
Lazarus, and of the Medjidie." Taking advantage of the reaction against 
Americans which followed the expulsion of Gren. Walker from Nicaragua, 
and by adroit imphcations of being the confidential representative of the 
Emperor Louis Napoleon, (who, as we have seen, had himself been princi- 
pal to a contract respecting the canal,) he received from the acting presi- 
dent, or rather dictator, of Nicaragua, a new concession for opening the 
proposed canal. The instrument bears date, " May 1, 1858, the anniver- 
sary of Walker's capitulation.!". Its provisions .are such as might be ex- 
pected from the character of the contracting parties, and do not merit 
recital. They may, however, .be inferred generally from the stipulation of 
Art. 26, " that the French government shall have the right to keep two 
ships-of-war stationed in the canal, or in Lake Nicaragua, for the entire 
duration of the works." The contract, furthermore, by an eminently Gral- 
lic appreciation of congruity and propriety, is accompanied by a grand 
political manifesto, setting forth that " hitherto aU the official agents of the 
United States in Nicaragua have been accomphces and auxiliaries of fiUi- 
busters," and that, for this and other reasons, Nicaragua was then, and by 
virtue of that manifesto, " pla-ced under the guarantee of the three powers 
which have guaranteed the Ottoman Empire — England, France, and Sar- 
dinia" — ^these powers being adjured " no longer to leave the rich countries 
of Central America to the mercy of barbarians 1" Late advices from Nic- 
aragua affirm that the contract with the " Knight of San Maurice and 



CONCLUSION. 691 

Lazarus" was ratified, with various modifications, on the 8th of April, 
1859, by the Legislative Chambera of tlie State.' It will thus be seen 
that tlie somewhat dreary history of earnest but unsuccessful attempts to 
connect the seas by means of a caual, is finally to be reheved by a comic 
episode ; and we may indulge the pleasing hope, that the all too sad remi- 
niscences connected with the undertaking, hke the too serious impressions 
left by a tragedy, are to be happily dissipated by the opportune introduc- 
tion of a farce ! To Punch and Charivari remains the congenial task of 
recording and illustrating the future career and the prospective triumphs 
©f Monsieur Belly, " Pubhcist, Knight, etc.," in Nicaragua ! 

1 It is stated also that this ratification is coupled with certain arrangements to open a 
transit route, by means of small boats on the river San Juan and Lake Nicaragua, and by 
carriages from the lake to the Pacific, as was done by the extinguished " Accessory Transit 
Company." So far as M. Belly has any practical object, it is probably this — to obtain the 
exclusive right for such a transit, or the concession of such privileges as wUl give a practi- 
cal monopoly. This may easily be done, notwithstanding that Nicaragua has declared the 
transit " open and free." 




APii.15.1861 




LA PLATA: 

THE ARGENTINE CONFEDERATION 

AMD 

PARAGUAY. 

Beinf a Narrative of the Exploration of the Tributaries of the River La 

Plata and Adjacent Countries, during the Years 1853, '54, '55, and '56, 

under the Orders of the United States Government. By Thomas J. 

Page, TJ.S.N., Commander of the Expedition. One Volume Large 

Octavo, with Map and numerous Illustrations. Muslin, $3 00. 

This Volume contains tlie Official Narrative of one of the most important Expeditions 
ever sent out by our Government. The vast region drained by the River La Plata and its 
tributaries was closed to commerce and navigation by the rigid Colonial Laws of Spain, 
the civil wars which followed the Independence, and the subsequent selfish policy of 
Rosas, the tyrant of Buenos Ayres. After the defeat and flight of Rosas, one of the first 
acts of Urquiza, the able and enlightened Director of the Argentine Confederation, was 
the decree of August 28, 1852, declaring the waters of the Confederation free to- the flags 
of all nations. 

Our Government was the first to avail itself of this decree. Early in 1853 the steamer 
Water Witch was placed under the command of Lieutenant Page, with instructions to ex- 
plore the Rivers of La Plata, and report upon their navigability and adaptation to com- 
merce. Lieutenant Page executed his commission with rare fidelity and intelligence, and 
has embodied the results in this volume. The explorations described in the Narrative 
embrace an extent of 3600 miles of river navigation, and 4400 miles of journey by land in 
Paraguay and the Argentine Confederation. The River Paraguay alone was found to be 
navigable, at low water, by a steamer drawing nine feet, for more than 2000 miles from 
the ocean. The basin of La Plata is almost equal in extent to the Mississippi, and not in- 
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must find their outlet through the River La Plata. The population numbers scarcely one 
person to a square mile, but great inducements to emigration are now offered by the Ar- 
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immediate and indefinite increase. 

Lieutenant Page's Narrative contains ample information respecting the soil, climate, 
and productions of the country, and the manners, habits, and customs of the people. A 
fuU account is given of the unfortunate rupture with Paraguay, showing conclusively that 
the attack upon the Water Witch was altogether unwan-anted, and the allegations by which 
President Lopez attempted to justify it entirely destitute of truth. An interesting and 
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The Illustrations comprise the accurate Map of the Country prepared by the orders of 
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lORTH AID CEITEAL AEEICA. 

Travels and Discoveries in North and Central Africa. Being a Journal of 
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